Building a bath from a log with your own hands. Construction of a bath from a log with your own hands Construction of a bath from a log

In this article: how to choose a place for a bath and its layout; stages of building a bath; types of foundation; sewerage; log house caulk; building a roof blind area; furnace installation; floor and ceiling; water supply; electrician; installation of windows and doors; shelves in the steam room; fire prevention measures.

The steam bath has been known since the time of the Scythians, who carried with them special bath tents and camping stoves. And in the 21st century, the Russian bath did not become a kind of archaism, having successfully withstood centuries of competition with baths and showers. Get rid of many ailments, remove from the body harmful substances accumulated in urban everyday life, give the body a good rest - all this is achieved when visiting a bath for more than one and a half thousand years.

Which design is preferable, how to choose a place to place it, how it works in general - you will find answers to many "bath" questions in this article.

Location and layout of the bath

One of the important additions to the bath itself at all times was a fresh water reservoir located nearby - in the absence of another source of water supply, water was taken from it. A special charm in the proximity of such a reservoir lies in the possibility of a contrast bath - after taking a steam bath in a Russian bathhouse, run out of it and plunge into the cool water of the reservoir. In addition, a natural reservoir made it possible to quickly cope with the fire of the bath, which arose quite often due to violations in the construction of the stove.

Linked up today country bath there is no special need for a natural reservoir, but it is still convenient if it is located near, say, an artificial reservoir - the final decision always remains with the owner of the dacha.

The main criteria for choosing a place for a bath: distance from the road, the presence of a natural or artificial fence from strangers (dense bushes, tree crowns, a fence, outbuildings), a fire-prevention distance from the main residential building of at least 15 meters.

The main premises of the bath are a waiting room, a washing room and a steam room (the last two rooms can be combined into one). The size of the dressing room is determined at the rate of 1.4 m 2 for each bather, the size of the washing room is 1.2 m 2 for one person. In addition, in the dressing room there should be a place for furniture (locker for clothes, benches for sitting) and for storing fuel (box for coal or firewood). In the washing room you will need a place for containers with hot and cold water, stoves and a place for sunbeds.

For example, for a small family (no more than 4 people), a bathhouse of the following sizes is suitable: external size - 4x4 m; dressing room - 1.5x2.4 m; washing - 2x2 m; steam room - 2x1.5 m. True, in a bath of this size you can’t really turn around - but it also takes up little space.

In general, the size of the bath is directly related to the size of the area that can be allocated for it. If the site is significant, then the bath can be expanded by adding a shower cabin, relaxation rooms, etc. to it.

In temperate and cold climatic zones, it will be correct if the entrance to the bathhouse is located in the south, and the window openings are on its western (southwestern) side. This arrangement of the entrance will greatly simplify the use of the bathhouse in the winter season, since snowdrifts on south side melt faster, and the direction of the windows will allow longer to illuminate its premises with sunlight.

Bath construction - stages

There are several of them:

1. Procurement of basic materials.

2. Selection and laying of the foundation.

3. Creation of a foundation for a stove-heater (if necessary).

4. Creation of the floor and sewer system of the bath.

5. Assembling the log cabin.

6. Roof construction.

7. Formation of a blind area around the perimeter.

8. Caulking bath walls.

9. Laying or installation of a furnace, installation of a chimney.

10. Electricity and water supply of the bath.

11. Installation of doors and installation of shelves.

Preparation of basic materials for the bath

The classic and most successful structural material for the Russian bath was and will be wood - wood easily copes with waterlogging of bath rooms, diverting excess moisture out.

What wood is suitable for building a bath? As a rule, baths are built from pine or spruce round timber with a diameter of no more than 250 mm - only wood will create an indescribable internal atmosphere in the steam room. However, in some places it is better to include wood of other species in the design of the bath - oak, larch and linden. For example, the lower crowns and logs for flooring, made of oak, will allow you to get a truly durable bath. Nuance - the oak must be cut down "in the very juice" (that is, not dead wood) and dried under a canopy. The lower crowns (no more than 4), following the first oak, are best made from larch. The final crowns, elements of interior decoration and cladding should be made of linden or white spruce - their wood removes moisture better than others.

When do you need to store wood for building a bath? Round timber, wood for interior decoration must be cut down in winter, during the period when tree trunks contain the least amount of moisture - it is easier to dry. In addition, not the entire tree trunk is suitable for building a bath - only the middle part of the trunk is suitable, that is, the top and butt are not suitable.

An important criterion in the selection of wood will be the absence of cavities and streaks of resin on the round timber of coniferous species, dryness, a sanded surface, the absence of rotten areas and places of damage by woodworms.

Bath foundation

The main types of foundation for the construction of baths are tape and columnar, depending on local soils. Regardless of the chosen type of foundation, it is necessary to lay them with the utmost care - it is better if to the depth of soil freezing. Preliminary work before laying the foundation of any type: cleaning the site from debris, complete removal of the topsoil to a depth of 200 mm (we remove the fertile layer).

To choose the right foundation, you need to determine the type of local soil, which can belong to one of three main groups:

1. Weak soil consists of peat, silt, silty sand (contains a lot of water), fluid clay or fluid plastic.

2. Heaving soil (subject to seasonal swelling) consists of sand (dusty or fine), clay components (clay, loam and sandy loam).

3. Slightly heaving soil is formed by rocks, medium and large grains of sand.

Columnar (pile) foundation for a bath

They are arranged on slightly heaving soils: it consists of pillars laid in the corners of the bath, as well as at the junctions of internal and external walls. If the distance between two adjacent foundation pillars is more than 2 m, another pillar is laid between them. The depth of laying the columnar foundation is at least 1.5 m.

Pillars for such a foundation are easy to make directly at the construction site of the bath; the material for them can be red brick, rubble stone, connected with concrete mortar. The main (corner) brick pillars for a columnar foundation are usually square shape, with a side of 380 mm, auxiliary - rectangular, with a section of 380x250 mm. If necessary, the main pillars are made in two bricks - with a section of 510x510 mm. The saving of rubble stone and brick during the construction of a columnar foundation is achieved by filling the foundation pits with sand - half of their depth, coarse sand is laid in layers (each layer is 100–150 mm), filled with water and rammed.

Foundation pillars when building a bath with your own hands can also be done independently. This will require a collapsible formwork made of boards, smeared from the inside with a non-hardening lubricant of the Emulsol type. Inside the assembled formwork, you need to place iron reinforcement, then pour the concrete mixture.

For casting foundation pillars inside the pits dug for them, a sliding formwork made of roofing iron, plastic, roofing paper or thick cardboard is used. From the material selected for the sliding formwork, a pipe with a diameter of 200 mm or more is created, placed in a foundation pit of a larger diameter - from 300 mm. The free space around the formwork is covered with sand - it will act as a lubricant and prevent lifting concrete pillar during swelling of the soil. Reinforcement tied with thick wire is inserted inside the formwork, then the concrete mixture is poured, which must be carefully compacted. For wire handles, previously fixed on the sliding formwork, it is lifted by 400 mm by rocking, sand is poured from the outside and a new batch of concrete is poured.

Asbestos-cement pipes can be used as a columnar foundation, they are durable, not subject to decay, and their outer surface is quite smooth, which allows them not to change their position when the soil swells. Asbestos-cement pipes are also filled with concrete, their underground part must be covered with a mineral-based construction lubricant to reduce the risk of freezing to the ground.

Between the foundation pillars of the outer walls of the bath and internal walls the steam room is laid out with brick walls, their sufficient thickness is brick and even half a brick. Such brick walls must be buried in the ground by 250 mm.

Foundation pillars and brick walls between them are brought to a height of 300–400 mm from the ground level, they must be leveled with cement mortar and covered with roofing material for waterproofing. At the ends of the pillars, during casting, mortgages of the required shape made of metal are installed - they are designed to fasten the log cabin of the bath to the foundation.

Tape foundation for a bath

When building a bath on heaving soils, it will be necessary to create a tape monolithic foundation.

Sequence of work:

1. Marking the construction site with twine stretched between pegs.

2. Digging a trench of the required depth (its size is related to the characteristics of local soils, at least 400 mm) and 300 mm wide.

3. Adding a layer of sand to the bottom of the trench, then gravel (each 70–100 mm).

4. Formwork installation.

5. Reinforcement tab.

6. fill concrete mix.

The reinforcement laid on the bottom of the foundation trenches must have a cross section of at least 12 mm, it is laid along each of the two sides of the trench, raising it to its middle with the help of brick fragments.

The composition of the concrete mixture is calculated with a ratio of 5:3:1 (crushed stone: sand: cement), the sand used must be dry and clean (washed). It is quite simple to calculate the volume of concrete required to pour a strip foundation, you just need to measure the width, depth and total length of the foundation. For example, with a width of 0.3 m, a depth of 0.4 m and a total length of 22 m, the following volume of concrete mixture will be required:

0.3 x 0.4 x 22 \u003d 2.64 m 3

One of the difficulties in the preparation of a dry mix of concrete is the lack of scales at construction sites. Therefore, this method of calculating dry components for concrete will come in handy: one 10-liter bucket holds from 15 to 17 kg of gravel, sand - from 14 to 17 kg, cement - from 13 to 14 kg.

The formwork is placed in such a way that the concrete foundation protruded above the ground level by 100 mm. As the concrete mixture is poured into the prepared formwork, its mass must be repeatedly pierced with a bayonet shovel or wire probe, tap the outside of the formwork with a hammer (we eliminate air pockets). Then you need to wait for the foundation to completely harden, about 5 to 7 days. When carrying out foundation work in the cold season, the formwork after pouring concrete must be covered with PVC film and covered with sawdust or other insulation on top.

After the period allotted for drying the cast foundation, we proceed to its waterproofing and lifting with brick rows (if the bath is not required, then, after waterproofing, we proceed to the cement screed). You will need the following materials:

1. Ruberoid.

2. Pipe about 2 m (plastic or metal), section from 32 to 57 mm.

3. The grid is masonry.

4. Red brick.

5. Masonry mortar.

Ruberoid (roofing) is cut into strips sufficient for flooring on a concrete foundation, then laid out over the foundation on bituminous mastic (for roofing - tar mastic). The brick is laid in a single-row dressing method: a masonry mortar is laid out on a layer of roofing material, the first brick row “in a poke” (across the foundation axis) is laid on it, then a masonry mesh is laid, the mortar and the next brick row are laid, but already “in a spoon” (along the axis foundation). Each new row brickwork is accompanied by a laying of masonry mesh, laying "in spoons" and "poke" alternate with each other. In the 3rd or 5th bond rows of masonry, you need to install ventilation vents from pipe scraps - 5-7 vents are enough for the entire foundation. The number of brick rows depends on the desired height of the foundation.

The last row of brickwork is covered with a cement screed (the composition of the solution is sand:cement as 1:2 or 1:3), with a 20 mm layer.

Independent foundation for the heater and sauna floor

We create the foundation for the stove-heater and assemble the bath house. If a major laying of the heater is supposed, it needs an independent foundation, i.e. not connected with the main foundation.

The floor in the bath can be clay, earth, wood or concrete. By and large, it does not need thermal insulation, since the temperature at its level is practically no higher than 30 ° C. A wooden grate, cork mats or mats are usually laid on the surface of the bath floor - their task is to relieve bath visitors from the sharp feeling of cold caused by touching the floor at the exit from the steam room. For self-drying, the flooring rises above the level of the main floor.

The main disadvantage of the wooden floor of the bath is its frequent waterlogging - water, penetrating through the cracks between the boards, will accumulate in them, causing rotting and an unpleasant odor. wood flooring the floor wears out quickly, acquiring an unsightly appearance, after 6–8 years it may require replacement. More practical for bath flooring will be tile- it is easier to look after it, it is not subject to influences of the moisture which is easily flowing down on its surface.

The floors in the bath rooms must be placed at different levels: the floor of the steam room is 150 mm higher than the floor of the washing room (we keep warm), the floor of the washing room is 30 mm lower than the floor level in the dressing room (we protect against water ingress).

Since the installation of a coated concrete floor ceramic tiles in the washing room and steam room it is more profitable than a wooden floor - we will consider this option.

There are several ways to arrange a concrete floor in a bath. First of all, we prepare the base for the formation of a warm floor - it consists of a 100 mm layer of sand and a 100 mm layer of crushed stone of the middle fraction, laid in series. Each layer should be well compacted and leveled. Then lay a roofing material on top, covering the walls with it to the height of the future floor.

Further actions:

1. First option- flooring with a 50 mm layer of felt, expanded clay or slag, on top of a 50 mm layer of concrete with the formation of a slope to the drain hole. After the concrete has set, it must be leveled with a cement solution, after which you can proceed to tile work.

2. Second option- 50 mm cement strainer containing perlite (expanded sand). Composition of the mixture: perlite:cement:water as 5:1:3. After a full week from the moment of laying the perlite concrete, we apply a 30 mm layer of concrete on top with a slope under the drain. When dealing with perlite, you need to be especially careful - this material is extremely light, even a light breeze blows it away, so you need to work with it indoors without drafts. Correctly observe the proportion of water!

With a significant rise in the basement of the bath above the ground (from 300 mm), wooden logs of square section (side 150 mm) will be required for flooring. If the dimensions of the bathhouse do not exceed 2000x3000 mm, then the logs will be supported by the logs. For larger sizes, additional supports for the floor logs will be required, they are pillars made of concrete or brick (250x250 mm) and are placed at a distance of 700–800 mm. Support pillars for logs must be placed on a multilayer base of sand, crushed stone and concrete - each 100 mm.

Important! Before forming the base for the support of the log, it is necessary to make a foundation for the stove-heater and build a sewerage system.

Wood for logs can be oak, larch or conifers, logs should be treated with tar or antiseptic before installation.

Solution floor covering in this case, it is as follows: the concreted space between the foundation is covered with roofing material with walls overlapping to the height of the floor, covered with slag or expanded clay (between the layer of roofing material and bulk insulation, a layer of 200 mm foam can be laid), a draft floor of 29 mm edged boards is attached to the underside of the lags. Then a PVC film is laid, foil mineral insulation, again a layer of film - for vapor barrier. On top we pour a 5 mm layer of concrete with a fine fraction filler, create a slope under the drain hole - after 3-4 days we put ceramic tiles.

Attention! Do not forget to bring the foundation for the furnace to floor level.

The floor in the dressing room is made of 19-29 mm grooved boards made of softwood.

Important point: when finishing a clean floor, and indeed the entire steam room and washing room, do not use synthetic Construction Materials- the condition is especially important for the steam room!

Bath sewerage system

To drain wastewater from the bath, you will need: a pit with a water seal, a sewage well and pipes that drain dirty water into the pit and further into the sewer well.

The pit is torn off outside the foundation of the bath, gravity pipes made of plastic, cast iron or ceramics are brought into it from the steam room and washing room (metal pipes will quickly rust).

The pit should be 500 mm from the foundation, its depth - 700 mm, section - 500x500 mm. The walls of the pit are covered with a 100 mm layer of concrete, a 110 mm drain pipe (pipes) from the bath is inserted into it under the foundation. The main well for drains, containing at least 2 m 3, must be dug at a distance of at least 2.5 m from the pit - the farther the better. A pipe is brought to it from the pit, laid under a slope at a depth of 1.5 m (below the freezing depth), its outlet from the pit must be located 100 mm from its bottom. After entering the drain pipe, the main sewage well is filled with gravel or sand 1 m from the bottom, soil is poured on top - a layer of at least 500 mm. When laying, carefully tamp each layer.

Before the outlet of the drain pipe into the pit, a galvanized water seal is installed, located at an obtuse angle to the drain pipe from the bath. Its edges and upper side are hermetically attached to the walls of the pit, the distance from its lower edge to the bottom should be no more than 50 mm - thanks to this design unpleasant odors and cold air will not enter the steam room (washing room) through the drain hole.

To avoid freezing in winter period the pit must be closed with two covers of the appropriate size (wooden or metal), felt should be laid between them, and top cover cover with expanded clay, slag or sawdust on top.

Shed, roof and blind area

It is better to make a log house for a bath to order from professional performers; its manufacture is quite difficult. The finished log house in disassembled form must be brought to the construction site and assembled according to the numbering of the logs. Crowns are fastened with 25 mm steel spikes with a total length of up to 150 mm, a tooth length of up to 70 mm.

The design of the roof of the bath includes rafters, a crate is attached to them, then roofing material. The choice of the final roof structure depends on roofing with which it will be covered. The rafters are attached to the last crown of the log house (better to the penultimate one) with the help of staples-thorns. As a rule, the construction of baths involves the arrangement of a single or gable roof, the slope angle (from 10 ° to 60 °) of which depends on the abundance and amount of precipitation in the area. Please note - the steeper the roof, the more material is required to create it.

Shed rafters, located at an angle, are fixed with two external or internal and external supports. If the span of the rafters exceeds 5 m, they are supported with additional struts. The rafters of a gable roof rest with their lower ends on the walls, the upper ends are interconnected, forming a ridge.

The roof of the bath can be covered with any material (slate, tiles, roofing material, galvanized, etc.), with an overlap on the walls of at least 500 mm.

The attic space must be made ventilated, that is, equipped with two doors at opposite ends of the roof.

We carry out a blind area along the foundation perimeter: we completely remove the top layer of soil, deepen by 200 mm at a distance of 600-800 mm from the basement of the bath, lay a 100 mm layer of gravel (crushed stone, expanded clay) with its subsequent leveling. We lay the expansion joints (19 mm board coated with resin or bitumen, with a step of 2-2.5 m perpendicular to the foundation), pour a 100 mm layer of concrete. Before the concrete sets, its surface must be ironed - dry cement is covered with a layer of 3-5 mm. After 3 days, the line of contact between the blind area and the foundation of the bath must be covered with bitumen for its waterproofing.

Caulker of a bath house

It is carried out for warming the log house - sealing the cracks between its logs, the material for caulking is traditionally linen tow, red moss, hemp hemp, wool felt. Natural materials for caulking can be replaced with factory-made materials made from jute and flax fibers: linen and felt - jute and flax-jute. The advantage of factory materials for caulking over natural ones is resistance to moth and fungus damage, and it is easier to work with factory material, because it is produced in the form of a continuous tape of a given thickness and width.

The caulking of the log house is carried out during its assembly - the caulking material is laid between the logs during their laying. After the construction of the roof, a complete caulking is performed - from the outer and inner sides of the log house, a year later - repeated caulking (the log house is upset - the logs dry).

The main tools for caulking are a spatula and a mallet, you can make them yourself or buy ready-made ones. Both of these instruments are made of wood (ash, oak or beech). A caulking spatula looks like a wedge with a handle 200 mm long and a pointed blade 100 mm, handle thickness 30 mm, blade width at the base 65 mm, at the end - 30 mm. The wooden mallet has a rounded shape: the handle diameter is 40 mm, its length is 250 mm, the impact part diameter is 70 mm, and the length is 100 mm.

Caulking is performed in two ways - “in a set” or “in a stretch”. In the second way, we caulk as follows: we collect the caulking material into a strand, lay it in the gap between the logs and push it in with a spatula, filling the gap completely, without gaps. Then we collect the tow with a roller, apply it to the caulked groove, take out small strands of material from it, wrap the roller around them and drive it into the groove with the help of a spatula and roller - with force, until we are completely sure that the groove (slot) is filled.

The first method of caulking log cabins is designed to cover grooves (slots) of large width. We twist the material for caulking with 2 mm strands, form several loops from them and drive them into the slot. Loops are recruited in an amount sufficient to completely fill the gap.

Caulking rules:

· first, the material is hammered along the upper edge of the log and only after that - along the bottom;

· we start work on caulking from the slots of the lower crown, on both sides. Then we move on to the lower crown of the adjacent wall and so on. Having finished caulking the slots of the lower crowns, we begin work on the next one in height, moving from this crown to the next one in the nearest wall (right to left or left to right, it doesn’t matter).

Important! In no case do not caulk only one wall - it will rise and cause the log house to skew, you will have to disassemble / assemble it again. Recall once again: caulking is performed in the direction "from bottom to top" along the perimeter of the log house.

We put the oven

There are many design options for sauna stoves, they can be heated with wood, gas, liquid fuel or use built-in heating elements and be heated by electricity, they can be brick, cast iron or metal. Brick ovens in baths are made with a wall thickness of "half a brick" or "a whole brick", masonry joints must be bandaged especially carefully, striving for their smallest thickness in order to achieve the greatest efficiency of the furnace. Only red brick is used for laying stoves. The firebox of the stove is taken out into the dressing room, its remaining three walls are in the washing room (steam room), while the distance from them to the walls of the washing room should be at least 250 mm - in this case, the heat will not go “into the walls”.

For a cast-iron or metal furnace, the formation of an independent foundation is not required - only for a brick one.

The heaters installed for those who like to take a steam bath are equipped with a chamber containing stones of various weights (from 1 to 5 kg). But, pebbles, boulders and granite are suitable for filling the chamber of the heater. The design of these furnaces is extremely simple - similar to cookers, heaters differ from them in a pipe of greater width or in the presence of a chamber with stones.

To obtain the highest temperature in the steam room, cast iron ingots must be added to the stones at a percentage of 80:20 (stones: ingots). For every 1 m 3 of a steam room, at least 6 kg of stones and cast iron ingots will be required.

If a distance of 40-50 mm is observed in the furnace between its walls and the water-heating boiler, the effect of a comprehensive blowing of the boiler with hot gases and the fastest heating of water is achieved.

For better traction, you need to withdraw chimney as close to the roof ridge as possible. When passing the chimney through the attic space, be sure to fluff the chimney 380 mm. Remember that the pipe should not pass near the roof sheathing and rafters closer than 150 mm (fire regulations).

Electricity and water supply of the bath

At least 8 liters are required for washing one bath user hot water. There are several ways to provide such an amount: heat a container of water on the stove, use geyser, install an electric heater - boiler. If there is a central water supply, the pipeline to the bath is led from the main house - the water from such a pipeline system must be drained in winter, otherwise it will freeze and break the pipes.

Water can be taken from a well or well by installing submersible pump for its injection and supplying such a water supply system with cleaning filters. And in this case, in winter, the water must either be drained after each use of the bath, or the supply pipes must be insulated.

To the bath you need to stretch an independent line for the supply of electricity and the easiest way is to do it by air (air). For air, you will need a special cable - we sweep away the “bare” aluminum cable right away, stopping at two options: SIP (self-supporting insulated wire) and VVGng. The first type of cable is very good, it has a long service life (more than 30 years), it is durable and does not need to be supported by a carrier cable. But it's extremely difficult to deal with him. installation work, because it is too thick (minimum cross section - 16 mm 2). Aluminum SIP cannot be pulled through the attic of the bath according to fire safety standards, it is required to fasten it to special anchor clamps - in terms of the amount of costs and hassle with its installation, its cost will be expensive.

A simpler solution is an air duct with a VVGng copper cable fixed on a supporting steel cable. The cable is suspended from a cable on a wire insulated with plastic, its service life is up to 10 years, after which it must be replaced (!). For a single-core cable VVGng (of course, there must be two cores - each of them must be in an independent double braid), pulled through the air to the bath, the optimal cross section will be 2.5 mm 2 - it is not known exactly what kind of electrical equipment the owner of the dacha wants to power from it in the future.

All junction boxes, sockets and switches, electrical panel must be outdoor installation only. According to the fire safety rules, it is forbidden to install junction boxes, switches and sockets in the washing / steam room - only in the dressing room. Do not joke with the possibility of a short circuit in a wooden structure - all internal wiring of the bath should be made only in a non-combustible corrugated hose, fixed to special clips, the cable passing through partitions - only through a steel pipe.

Try to arrange the cables in the junction box, socket or lamp so that they go there from below or from the side, but not from above - a drop of condensate sliding along the braid can cause a short circuit.

All electrical appliances must have a moisture protection class of at least IP44 (preferably the maximum - IP54). Install simple fixtures - a metal case, only a glass cover. All connections of the internal wiring of the cable are only on the terminal block, no twists. And install an RCD in the shield, setting it to 30 mA.

For work in the electrical panel and installation of RCDs, be sure to invite a qualified electrician if you yourself are not one!

Installation of partitions, ceiling, interior decoration, installation of windows and doors

The internal partitions in the bath can be brick or wooden, with subsequent heat and moisture insulation in both cases. The partition between the washing room and the dressing room, in which the stove is installed, must be made of brick, or brick inserts are made in it with masonry in one brick - on the sides in contact with the stove body.

Interior decoration is usually performed in cases where the bath itself is built of brick, stone or timber - here the decoration scheme is classic: insulation, vapor barrier film and lining. In addition, when performing exterior and interior decoration, you will have to rebuild the ventilation system of the bath, because the log logs will be covered with sheathing and will not be able to provide full ventilation.

The ceiling is formed in two layers - draft and finishing. The draft ceiling is attached to the horizontal roof joists, if necessary reinforced with intermediate beams. Its area is covered with insulation - expanded clay or slag. Inside the washing / steam room, insulation and a vapor barrier film are attached to the draft ceiling, after which the ceiling is covered fine finish- lime, pine tongue-and-groove board (from 20 mm thick - the thicker the board, the longer it will retain the woody smell).

In the bath, you need to arrange small windows (on average 500x700 mm) and cut them low - enough so that you can look out through them sitting on the bench. The windows in the bath are always double-glazed, depending on the size - with a window or fully hinged - for quick ventilation.

Doors in the sauna rooms must be installed so that they open outward - for reasons of fire safety. The material for the door leaves is a tongue-and-groove board (40-50 mm) or a board with a selected quarter, the boards are fastened to the dowels. The size of the sashes must be deliberately reduced by 5 mm - more than necessary for the actual distance between the quarters of the jambs - otherwise, when the humidity rises, the sash will swell and it will be difficult to open (close) it. Optimal size doors in the washing department of the bath - 600x1600 mm, in the steam room - 800x1500 mm, with a threshold height of about 300 mm above the floor (it is uncomfortable to walk, but it will keep warm). Hinges for hanging door leaves - brass, going into the dressing room (washing room) and into the washing room (steam room). Door handles- wooden (especially in the steam room).

Shelves in the bath

The material for the shelves is linden, pine, poplar or aspen. Minimum shelf length - 1800 mm, width - 500–800 mm. The distance between the "floors" of two-row shelves should be at least 350 mm, the minimum distance from the second row to ceiling covering- 1100 mm.

The surface for lying is formed by a board with a width of 80 mm, a thickness of 40 mm, a gap of 15 mm wide is formed between the boards. A distance of 10 mm is maintained from the wall to the shelf. Boards for sheathing shelves are attached to a frame made of timber with a section of 50x70 mm in two ways: from above - with the help of nails, the caps of which are sunk into the tree; bottom with screws. For fastening choose nails and screws made of stainless steel or copper.

All corners in the design of the shelves are rounded, the surfaces are carefully cleaned with zero sandpaper.

For greater convenience, the shelves in the steam room are equipped with a headboard: the height at the beginning of the rise is 30 mm, the length of the headboard is 460 mm, the final maximum height is 190 mm.

When choosing a material for creating shelves, be careful - it is believed that knotty areas have a higher density and can lead to skin burns. Therefore, try to pick up boards and timber without knotty areas at all or with a minimum number of them.

Fire fighting measures

Protect the bathhouse from the threat of fire - lay a steel sheet in front of the furnace furnace, make sure that the furnace doors are securely fastened, install fire extinguishing equipment nearby (a container with water, sand and fire extinguishers). Make sure that you can freely open the doors of the steam room and washing room when kindling the bath. Do not block passages, the space in front of doors and windows.

http://www. rmnt . ru/ - RMNT website. en

What could be more pleasant than to recuperate by steaming in! It can be built on your site. with my own hands by selecting, for example, a project from timber or logs. How to build a log house in stages - shown in detail in the photo and thematic video.

Having decided to build a real Russian bath from wood impregnated with fragrant resins, decide what exactly you will take for the construction of a log house: timber or logs. The first option is more common for a number of reasons:

• relatively low cost (compared to logs);
• minimal shrinkage, so you can start finishing earlier;
• more simple technology construction;
• the possibility of building a simple foundation, because a blockhouse made of beams is lighter than a log cabin, and this also saves money.

Log bath

Buildings made of logs are considered more complex; here it is very difficult to do without the help of a master. If raw material is harvested from scratch, it is necessary to properly cut and dry it. Then you should carefully match one log to another, number them, etc. In terms of time, this is quite expensive, but there is more easy way: to build a log house from logs. They are processed on the machine, giving each the correct shape.

Regardless of what you prefer, there are several rules for harvesting (purchasing) wood:

1. The material should not have spots, wormholes, deep cracks, a large number of knots.
2. The permissible curvature of the logs should not exceed 1 cm.
3. Dried material is preferable to non-dried material. If you bought "raw" logs, you can dry them yourself (this will take about a year). It is believed that a log house made of damp wood should be erected immediately, then the drying process will coincide with shrinkage and it will be possible to avoid cracks and severe deformation of the logs.
4. Logs harvested in winter are wetter and heavier than logs cut in summer.
5. The sawn tree must lie down for at least a month before construction begins.

Advice. The further north the forest is located, the denser the wood structure. One of the best is the material that comes from the Pskov region.

You can choose a ready-made bath project, or you can make it according to an individual sketch. To do this, you need to decide what exactly should be in your building:

1. The attic is a convenient option for arranging a rest room.
2. The veranda is a place for spiritual gatherings with a cup of tea after the steam room.
3. - for lovers of barbecue in the fresh air.
4. A wide porch is a traditional Russian version of a bathhouse.

Bath with a terrace

Foundation construction and waterproofing

The foundation for the bath is selected taking into account several factors:

• soil type;
• climatic conditions;
• type of building material.

The tape base is considered optimal for a bath from a bar. If you use logs in construction, it is better to make a more powerful foundation, for example, a columnar one. It withstands heavier structures, including log cabins.

To build a strip foundation you need:

Advice. 3-4 hours after the end of the pouring, you need to cover the foundation with shavings or sawdust and water it for 2-3 days at intervals of 4-5 hours. To make the moisture evaporate more slowly, you need to use a polyethylene shelter. In a week, the formwork can be removed, and in a month the foundation itself will be ready.

Waterproofing is an obligatory stage in the construction of a bath. Molten bitumen must be applied to the surface of the foundation. A strip of roofing material is placed on top. After solidification, everything is repeated in the same sequence.

Phased construction of a log house

The erection of walls consists of the following stages:

1. Laying every 25-30 cm along the entire foundation of slats, processed. Their thickness is 1.5 cm.
2. Installation of the first crown (row). It can not be fastened, but it is necessary to check the horizontal position with a level.
3. filling mounting foam gaps between the bars and the foundation.
4. Laying the remaining rows. The last 2 do not need to be fixed, the rest can be connected:

• wooden dowels or dowels (bars);
• metal pins.

The first crown of the log house

At the ends, the bars are connected by grooves that are made on one, two or four sides. The logs are attached a little differently. The simplest method involves cutting a semicircular recess in the upper part, into which a transverse log is inserted, also having a similar cutout.

Advice. Bars or logs for the first crown must be treated with an antiseptic or machine oil, and insulation should be laid between all rows: moss, tow or jute.

Blanks for windows and doors are easiest to make in the process of building walls. To do this, you need to leave a small gap in the rows where the openings are planned. After the construction of the log house, you need to cut holes with a chainsaw. After the natural shrinkage has passed (it takes about six months), you can make a roof. Most often choose a flat shed option.

Attention! While shrinkage is in progress, you need to cover the log house with boards and roofing felt or slate to protect the wood from precipitation.

What to build a bath: video

Round timber materials that are used in construction various designs without further mechanical processing, are harvested from coniferous and deciduous trees - depending on the destination.
Round timber is divided into grades I, II, III, and IV, respectively, according to GOST 9463-60 and 9462-60. Unsorted timber must meet the requirements for grades III and IV. The moisture content of a round log intended for the construction of load-bearing structures or supports should be no more than 25%. Construction logs are harvested from pine, spruce, cedar, fir wood. Larch round timber is also widely used in construction as the most moisture resistant material.

Types of logs for construction, depending on the type of processing

All wooden buildings and structures are built from different type logs that differ in the way they are processed:

Round log.

It is a round timber with the top layer removed - bark and sapwood. After processing, only a dense base remains. Such material retains all its properties, while being completely smooth and even. It is very easy and convenient to work with such a log.

A surface-treated tree trunk, from which only the bark and some irregularities are removed. protective layer- sapwood, which is located directly under the bark, while remaining virtually untouched. Such log differs in the high durability and long service life. From such material in the old days they built houses that stood for 150-200 years. Since the skinned round timber logs undergo only surface treatment, they almost completely retain their shape, that is, the difference in the base of the log and its upper part is very noticeable. This must be taken into account during the construction process.

Calibrated log.

As the name implies, these are fully processed logs of the same size and diameter. They are very convenient and easy to use - the walls of such logs are smooth and neat.

Do-it-yourself bath from round timber

Who and when built the first wooden bathhouse is not exactly known. But we can say with confidence - log baths have passed the test of time and their popularity is only growing. The advantages of a round log bath are enough: the environmental friendliness of the material, the undoubted health benefits, the durability and reliability of the building, and, of course, the attractive, colorful appearance of the bath is far from last role in her popularity.

A log bath is the pride of every owner of a country or suburban area, especially if it is built with your own hands. It is quite possible to do this, although it is not easy. Below we will briefly consider the main stages of bath construction - from the choice of material to the installation of the roof. We hope that the above materials will help you get a general idea of ​​​​the principles of erecting log buildings.

main stages of construction work:

Project preparation.
Selection and purchase of material.
Foundation construction.
Processing and preparation of logs.
Walling.
Installation of doors, windows, roofs.
Construction of the stove, the output of the chimney.
Interior decoration of the premises.
Thermal insulation of the building.

choice of wood for construction

It is safe to say that the right wood for a bath is half the success. This must be taken as seriously as possible. In the vast majority of cases, baths are built from conifers, durable and resistant to moisture.

the most popular types of wood:

Larch

Quite an expensive material, which, however, is worth the money spent on it. Larch is a very durable, hard and moisture resistant material. In addition, it is not at all necessary to build a bath entirely from larch. Most often, it is used to lay the crown of a log house, as a strong and durable material, and the walls are built from cheaper conifers.

In terms of quality characteristics, it is, of course, inferior to larch, but it has a number of valuable advantages. Pine is easy to process - this is important, especially if construction works carried out on their own. Pine wood is beautiful, well breathable, providing natural ventilation premises, and, in addition, round pine wood, the price of which is an order of magnitude lower than for larch, is more affordable for the average buyer.

Builders appreciate spruce wood for its ease of processing, resistance to sudden temperature changes and low resin content. The high resin content of wood increases its service life, but if even a drop of hot resin gets on the skin during bathing procedures, a bath visitor is guaranteed a burn.
Spruce wood enhances the beneficial effect of bath procedures, and the aroma emanating from it relaxes and soothes.

Not everyone can afford to buy an oak log, but this material is always popular, primarily because of its durability. Oak logs are heavy, and the construction of a log house requires significant power inputs, and sometimes the involvement of heavy equipment. But the result is worth it - an oak building will stand for decades without requiring repairs. Oak wood has medicinal properties, therefore, it cannot be treated with antiseptics.

preparation of logs for the construction of a log house

A log delivered from a felling site should be stored in the bark for no more than two weeks maximum. If the logs need to be stored for some time, they are stacked. Transverse spacers are installed between the rows of logs. For greater stability, each log is nailed to the gasket. The stack must be securely covered from the effects of precipitation and direct sunlight in such a way that the logs are ventilated, that is, provide natural ventilation.

For the walls of the log house, straight logs are selected, preferably of the same thickness. At the same time, the difference in the diameter of the ends should not be more than 3-5 cm. If the logs are long, then the difference in their upper part - the run-off should not be more than 1 cm per 1 mm of the trunk length.
The diameter of the logs is selected according to the size of the longitudinal groove. The width of the groove relative to the diameter of the log is approximately 2/3. If the winter temperature in the region reaches -20 C, the groove is made 10 wide, at -30 C - 12, at -40 - 16 cm.
The length of the log is determined by the dimensions of the building wall plus the protrusion beyond the wall.
For construction, it is preferable to use recently harvested logs, since it is easier to make cuts in them. In addition, such a log gives less cracks as it dries. When a round log dries out, its length practically does not decrease, and the material can lose no more than 10% in diameter.
The number of crowns required for a log house is selected depending on the height of the future building and on the diameter of the logs. The first crown, or, as it is also called, the salary, should be larger than the others for the reason that lags will subsequently be driven into it. The first crown is laid on the foundation, having previously laid a layer on it waterproofing material(most commonly used ruberoid). After that, logs are selected for the next crowns. At the same time, it is necessary to carefully monitor the geometry of the building in order to prevent distortions.

Fresh logs must first be cleaned of bark. The easiest way to do this is with a special tool - a plow. In appearance, it resembles a bracket with handles bent at a certain angle.

To remove the bark, an ordinary bayonet shovel is also used. The narrow part of the shovel is evenly cut and sharpened. An ax for cleaning a log from bark is rarely used, since it is difficult for them to work and it takes more time.

Since the log is round, so that it does not spin during the hewing process, the log is placed on several short logs in which triangular grooves are cut.

At the ends of the log being processed, vertical lines are marked - the boundaries of the future edge. Two nails are driven in from above, a chop construction cord is pulled between them, which is slightly pulled and released - the colored cord leaves a line on the surface of the log, along which the log is hewn.
First of all, a rough hewing of the log is carried out - along the entire length of the future edge to the required depth, cuts are made in increments of about 30 cm. After that, a layer of wood between the cuts is removed with an ax. After that, the edging is cleaned clean with an ax or planed with a sherhebel, forming a clean and even plane.

Today, craftsmen prefer not to hew logs, but to cut the edge with a chainsaw. However, you should not cut down the log to the very line of the hemp. The fibers torn apart by the saw chain soon begin to rot. In this case, it is best not to cut the wood to about 5 cm to the shear line. The rest of the wood is cut down with an ax, which “hammers” the fibers, thus preventing their premature decay.

A sanded log, as it dries, is inevitably covered with a network of cracks. Cracks appear and propagate chaotically, and in some cases can reach the core of the log. In order to prevent the appearance of cracks on the front part of the logs, craftsmen relieve stress from the wood by making artificial "cracks". In the side of the log opposite the longitudinal groove, a narrow longitudinal groove is cut or sawn through with a depth of about ½ of the radius of the log. As the log dries out or absorbs moisture, the groove will shrink or expand, thus preventing cracks from appearing.

log connection options

The logs are connected to each other in several ways: “in the paw” and “in the cup” - the so-called connection with the remainder.

cup connection

First of all, the “cup” is marked on the log. This is done with the help of a "line" - a tool for marking logs. The line is attached to the upper log in such a way that one leg of the tool moves along the upper beam, while the second one draws an arc.

After that, the upper logs are moved aside and put into the finished recess. The logs should fit snugly against each other. An important point: the second cup should be slightly raised above the first, and not be on the same level with it.

After the “cups” are cut down, the first logs are laid on top, after which risks are drawn for the groove between the first and second crowns. This work requires attentiveness and full concentration from the master - the line must be very accurately pushed to the depth of the future groove, after which the resulting risks are transferred to the “cups”. Next, the log is lifted, turned upside down with risks, cuts are made to the depth of the groove. The ends of the log are hewn, after which they make a cut.

connection of logs "in the paw"

The technology is very similar to the one described above. Its main difference is the presence of a spike, which is designed to reduce the ventilation of the corner. The spike has a size of a third of the length and width of the "paw". It should be noted that such a connection is only used if logs of the same diameter are used. The hewn sides of the log and its end are divided into 8 equal parts, parallel lines are drawn through the marked points, the edges are marked with letters. The resulting points are connected - the edges of the "paw" are obtained. Excess wood is removed with an axe.

wall construction

After the completion of the above work, things begin to move faster - the crowns are laid in the desired sequence and the walls of the bath are assembled. Insulation is placed in the grooves - they used to use moss, today masters put tow in the grooves. The bars of the crowns for more reliable fixation are strengthened with the help of dowels.
In places of future doors, 5 crowns are installed on top, 2 crowns on the bottom. For windows in the wall, 3 crowns are prepared above and 5 below.

roof arrangement

If the bath is separate from other buildings, then the best option there will be a gable roof. When the bath is an extension to the main building, they make a roof with one slope, which is a continuation of the roof of the main building.

For gable roofs optimal angle slope - 25-45 degrees, for lean-to - 20-30. It should be noted that the roof wooden bath should be heavy. To "weight" the roof, craftsmen often resort to Norwegian technology, arranging the so-called "earthen roof". Such a design not only has an impressive weight - snow does not accumulate on such a roof, it melts and flows down in the form of water.

Arrangement of the floor in the bath

The floor in the bath must necessarily have a slight slope towards the drain, which is connected by a pipe to a septic tank or sewage pit. The floor is installed on logs, which are installed on supporting pillars with waterproofing. Floor boards are recommended to be laid not end-to-end, but with a small gap - about 5-6 mm.

The sewerage in the bath must be provided with a ventilation riser. Usually it is mounted on a drain by installing an asbestos-cement pipe with a diameter of 10 cm. A cap is put on the top of the pipe or a deflector is installed.

The stove is best arranged near the door, in the corner. This arrangement of the heat source allows you to simultaneously heat the steam room, changing room and shower. Shelves in the steam room are installed in the form of steps against the wall.

At the design stage, it is necessary to include in the plan such premises as a dressing room, a washing room, a steam room, a dressing room, a rest room. If funds allow, you can add a small pool, veranda, balcony, etc.

After the bath is ready, you should not immediately start finishing work - the bath should settle down properly. It usually takes at least a year for a log building to shrink completely. Only then can internal Finishing work. If you neglect this rule, distortions may occur in the door and window openings and cracks in finishing materials.

Throughout the entire time of shrinkage of the building, you need to carefully monitor it, and close the gaps between the crowns of tow in a timely manner.

It is quite possible to build a bath from a log with your own hands. But if you do not have at least basic knowledge and experience in construction, it is better to entrust this work to professionals, or, if possible, observe their work and soberly assess your capabilities.

If earlier baths were built exclusively from wood, today other materials have appeared (brick, aerated concrete), despite this, wood is the classic and most popular material. A log bath helps to create a special atmosphere characteristic of a traditional one.

Russian log bath: advantages

Most people prefer to build a bath from a log with their own hands, since this material has a number of advantages:

• environmental friendliness. In order for a trip to the steam room to bring maximum benefit, it is necessary that it be built from natural and environmentally friendly materials, which is wood;
• special flavor. When heated, the tree exudes a pleasant and healthy aroma, which makes the process of visiting the bath healing and enjoyable;
• saving. The process of manufacturing and preparing materials is quite simple, and therefore the price is low;
• high thermal insulation. The tree retains heat well, which is important for a bath;
• good ventilation. Logs allow steam and air to pass through, keeping the room warm;
• aesthetics. Wooden buildings look neat and cozy, they fit perfectly into any exterior;
• long service life. Wooden buildings are different high level reliability, subject to the rules, you will receive a building that will serve you for many years.

Log bath: disadvantages

• fire hazard. The tree burns, unlike brick or aerated concrete, so it must be treated with special means;
• shrinkage. Within six months after construction, finishing work cannot be carried out, in contrast to, which has minimal shrinkage;
• the need for meticulous care. Wood is susceptible to decay, so it must be treated with means that will protect it from the effects of the external environment;
• assembly complexity. It is not easy to build a bathhouse from a log with your own hands, so if you do not have sufficient skills, then it is better to entrust the work to professionals.

Log bath: step by step instructions

For the construction of a bath, you need to follow a certain order.

Stage 1. Selection of material

The first step is to choose the type of wood from which you plan to build a log bath. As a rule, pine is used. This material has a low price, it is durable, reliable and resistant to temperature extremes and moisture. Less popular options are spruce, cedar, larch.

It is better to choose logs felled in winter, as they will have good moisture resistance. The diameter of the logs is 180-250 mm. Please note that the difference between them should not exceed 30 mm, in case of violation of this condition, the building will turn out with slots.

It should also be taken into account that the same tree species may differ in its density if the trees were grown in different climatic conditions.

When buying or procuring materials for building a log bath with your own hands, it is important to pay attention to a number of points:

• they must be equal. It is permissible to change the thickness by 10 mm per meter of length, no more;
• blue spots are unacceptable. They are signs of decay;
• the core should have a uniform dark shade;
• resin pockets should be absent;
• gaps in the branches are unacceptable, because they are signs of a rotten core.

Rounded logs are an excellent option for building a bath. They are aligned along the entire length in production, covered with an antiseptic that protects against decay. The log has grooves for laying, which simplifies the process of assembling the log house.

Stage 2. Drawing up a project

Design is an important part of construction. The project can be done independently, found on the Internet ready-made version or turn to professionals. Decide on the place where you will build, with the size of the structure, the location of windows and doors, the arrangement of furniture, the placement of electrical wiring and sewerage.

A well-designed project will facilitate the construction process.

Stage 3. Foundation construction

When we build a bath from a log or any other material, we always need to pay Special attention foundation. It directly affects the reliability of the entire structure. To choose the type of foundation, you need to pay attention to the soil.

If it is clayey, swampy or forest, then it will do. strip foundation. For buildings on a slope, it is better to choose a screw or pile. It is also possible to install a columnar foundation.

After the foundation has been erected, it is imperative to lay a layer of waterproofing, usually roofing material is used for this purpose.

Stage 4. Building walls

The construction of the log cabin of the bath begins with the installation of a "mortgage crown". It is recommended to use the thickest logs for it. First, two logs must be laid strictly parallel to each other from different sides of the future building. After you need to perpendicularly lay two logs in the grooves.

The following crowns are laid out similarly.

At the moment, you can buy ready-made baths. They are made in production, then assembled, quality checked, and then disassembled again. Such logs are packed and numbered, and then sold complete with assembly instructions. In this case, making a bath from logs will be much easier and faster.

The following is about how to build a log bath. Video:

When the assembly of a bath from a log with your own hands is completed, you need to wait until the logs dry, and then proceed to the next step.

Stage 5. Caulking the walls

For caulking, you can use linen, jute, wool felt. The process of sealing cracks must be started from the lowest rows, gradually moving up. To do this, spread the canvas across the groove and hammer it inside with a special spatula. It is necessary to especially carefully caulk the corners of the room.

The caulking of the walls must be done strictly along the perimeter; it is impossible to process each wall in turn. This can lead to distortion.

Stage 6. Installing the roof

The roof is usually made of slate or ondulin, the latter has certain advantages: it is lighter, which simplifies installation, and also has a longer service life.

Stage 7. Installation of windows and doors

After assembling the log house, you need to make openings for windows and doors. For safety reasons, the doors should open outwards. It is better to choose wooden windows and doors, since plastic can release harmful substances when heated.

Stage 8. Finishing work

Finishing a bath from a log should be carried out six months after the completion of construction. Usually, lining is used for interior decoration of a bath - a material that is a leader in this field.

At the same stage, a furnace is installed, the necessary communications, electricity, etc. are carried out.

The final touch is the installation of furniture.

Do-it-yourself log bath: photo

Construction of a bath from a log: video

Consumption ecology. Manor: The use of chopped logs in the process of building a bath is fully justified by high costs. Since the quality of such a structure is much higher than the use of rounded materials. We will consider how to build a bath from a log further.

The use of chopped logs in the process of building a bath is fully justified by high costs. Since the quality of such a structure is much higher than the use of rounded materials. We will consider how to build a bath from a log further.

Chopped log: features and benefits

The most popular material used in the construction of a bath is wood. It is wooden buildings that are distinguished by quality, durability, and spending time in such a bath becomes beneficial to health.

The use of wood allows you to maintain the necessary microclimate of the room, the walls in such a bath are able, under certain conditions, to absorb moisture and give it away at the right time.

The duration of use and the quality of the constructed bath directly depend on the type of materials used in the process of its construction and on their quality. When harvesting wood, you should follow certain rules, which we will consider below:

1. It is better to harvest a tree from December to March.

2. After the tree is cut down, you should wait at least a month before further processing.

3. Before storing the timber, all logs are cleaned from the bark, only on the end sections there are small places, 15-20 cm, with bark, preventing their cracking.

4. Logs are stored in stacks. It is important to observe the ventilation gap between them, 50 mm in size.

5. All stacks are covered with slate, which will protect them from moisture.

If you adhere to all the conditions for harvesting wood, then such a bath will serve its owners for at least 50 years.

The logs are round materials, which are formed after cutting down trees, which are cleared of branches and trunks.

Among the advantages of chopped logs are:

• less creaking and cracking;
• lower level of moisture absorption;
• higher resistance to biological influences in the form of insects, fungus or mold;
• long service life that does not require special care;
• ease and simplicity of assembly;
• the presence of special groove components;
• a variety of corner cuts in the form of a paw, a Russian bowl, an exclusive triple cut;
• a variety of styles for performing a bath;
• healthy indoor climate;
• a wide range of log diameters.

Among the disadvantages of chopped logs are:

• higher cost of work on the preparation of the material;
• the difference in diameters at different ends of the log house;
• the quality of the work performed directly depends on the experience of the specialists who perform them, with poor-quality installation, the appearance of the structure suffers greatly.

Baths from chopped logs - characteristic

Baths made of chopped logs have been popular for decades and even hundreds of years. This is due to the availability of materials used in the process of their construction and the ease of its processing.

The use of wood in construction has the following advantages:

• first of all, the ability of wooden walls to “breathe” - thanks to this, it is easy to breathe in the bathhouse, and there is fresh air and a healthy atmosphere in the room;
• low level of thermal conductivity provides excellent heat retention in the bath, even in winter, which is very important for taking bath procedures;
• the manufacture of walls in the bath from wood allows you to avoid overheating in the summer, as the tree controls the temperature level in the room;
• cost is another advantage, since a wooden bath does not require the construction of an expensive foundation, and wood is much cheaper than brick or concrete.

The standard appearance of a bathhouse built from chopped logs has one floor. Although the option of building a two-story or attic bath is possible. The minimum number of rooms in a bathhouse is three: a washing room, a steam room and a relaxation room.

In the construction of baths, different types of trees are used, but the lower part of the bath, which is in contact with the foundation, is traditionally made of larch, since this material has the highest quality characteristics. In addition, the use of coniferous trees, pines, spruces is common, which fill the room with a special aroma that cleanses and heals the human body.

For a firebox, it is better to give preference to birch. In the construction of a bath, the main thing is to choose the right type of wood. Since the final result of the work depends on the quality of the material.

An important point is the construction of the supporting structures of the building. They appear as one wooden wall, which is based on longitudinally laid logs or crowns.

Chopped log baths photo:

The crown is a rectangular structure, which consists of bars laid in a perpendicular direction.

The final stage of work is the felling of a bathhouse, first, work is done on felling a tree in a forest or in a field. Next, the log house is transported to the construction site and caulked. After a year after installation and complete drying, internal and exterior finish log house.

Construction of log baths: step by step instructions

The procedure for building a bathhouse using chopped logs consists of several stages, namely:

1. Drafting baths from chopped logs.

2. Assembly and felling of materials used in the construction process.

3. Preparation and construction of the foundation.

4. Construction of walls in the bath.

5. Building roof equipment.

6. Installation of the stove.

7. Carrying out interior finishing work.

8. Installation of the chimney.

9. Works on the insulation of floors and ceilings.

10. Installation of shelves in the room.

The first stage involves the design of the bath. Development of projects is carried out in relation to all the requirements of the owners. It is possible to independently develop a project, a ready-made purchase of a project, or an individual development of a project by specialists who will take into account all the individual climatic and geological features of the area and draw up best option bath project.

The bath begins to be built by determining its dimensions, if we consider standard sizes log house, which consists of three rooms, then its area will be about 60 square meters.

An important factor is the height of the room in which the shelves will be located, and which should be comfortable for a certain number of people.

Be aware that too big sizes baths will help to improve heat loss and it will take a lot of fuel to heat the bath. Therefore, you should choose the minimum dimensions of the room, which should be convenient for the location of people in the bath.

A standard bathhouse consists of a pre-bath room in which they change clothes and a steam room in which they wash and bathe. A variant of the equipment of the rest room is possible.

For a more rational use of space, the door from the steam room should go into the vestibule.

To improve the strength of the structure, it is necessary to choose and equip the foundation correctly. The depth of its laying is determined by the depth of soil freezing, to which a minimum of 100 mm is added.

It is important to take into account the correct distribution of temperature in the bath. The air temperature in the steam room is from 51 to 57 degrees, in the washing room - 35-40 degrees, and in the locker room, at least 22 degrees.

An important factor is the correct location and installation of shelves. They should not be near the stove, as there is a risk of burns from too hot steam.

Therefore, it is preferable to place shelves near blank walls. Shelves should be arranged in two or three tiers, depending on the height of the ceiling.

Most often, stoves are used in the bath, which are located in the corner section of the room. This arrangement allows for optimal heating of all rooms at once. In inner part the furnace is equipped with a tank in which water is heated. The principle of operation of such a furnace is the use of a special kind of stones, which, when heated, become hot and release steam in contact with water. Firewood is used as fuel for the stove stove, which heats it for a long time.

The arrangement of the roof is another important issue, since the roof must have a minimum thermal conductivity. If the bath is a separate building, then the most popular option roof structure is gable roof. When arranging baths in the form of an extension, it is rational to use shed types of roofs.

The angle of inclination of a gable roof is from 18 to 44 degrees, and a single-pitched roof is from twenty to thirty degrees. A wooden bath requires a heavy roof, as it must be very warm to prevent heat loss. Quite popular are Norwegian earthen roofs, on the surface of which there is soil and plants in the form of a lawn.

It will take at least two months to build a bathhouse. But, keep in mind that in order for the bath to serve with high quality, its operation should begin no earlier than a year after its construction. Since it is after this period of time that the first stage of bath shrinkage occurs. Final shrinkage will occur after four to five years, depending on the type of tree.

The main stage in the construction of a bath is the insulation of the floor and ceiling. To insulate the ceiling in the bathhouse, from chopped logs, you will need to nail slings all over the ceiling, then a wooden ceiling is installed, then caulking is installed to prevent heat loss.

In addition, you should take care of the proper arrangement of floors and spillways. When building a floor in a washing room and a steam room, care should be taken to ensure normal flow and to drain water into sewer system. Therefore, the floor must have an inclined surface, for its manufacture only water-repellent materials are used, in the form of concrete, clay.

The slope should be directed to the pit, which is equipped with a water seal connecting the drain pipe and the sewer pit.

Next comes the flooring wooden materials. To carry out this process, the installation of a log is required, which are mounted on a pre-waterproofed surface with support pillars. Between the boards, a gap of at least 0.5 cm is necessarily left, since the tree swells when wet, and decreases in volume when it dries. In addition, you should take care of removing the longitudinal chamfer from the boards, so their upper part becomes a little larger than the lower one.

If a solid floor is being constructed, then for its arrangement it is required to have a pit directly in the room. A special grid is installed to cover it. The ventilation riser is used for sewage equipment. For its arrangement, it is required to install asbestos-cement or metal pipe, the minimum diameter of which is 10 cm. A cap or deflector is installed on its upper section.

The technology of building a bath from chopped logs

After the construction of the bath, it is required to lay an interventional seal between the logs. Thus, the appearance of cracks through which heat loss occurs is excluded.

Moss or tow is used as a sealant, but this method is less popular due to the complexity of the work and the high cost of the material. Modern house building involves the use of flax wool, which is easy to install, as it is produced in the form of a roll.

The procedure for sealing seams is called caulking, it requires the same interventional sealant or linen rope - which improves the appearance of the building.

With the help of caulking, the thermal insulation of the entire building is significantly improved. But, carrying out this process should be repeated after the shrinkage of the building, that is, after five years of its operation.

An important issue is the problem of joining logs, since chopped materials have an unequal diameter and for joining, special skills are required.

The standard log size is 600 cm. If the wall of the building is longer, then they are joined together at the point of cutting. Thus, the butt sections become invisible. In the absence of a perpendicular wall, a cut is equipped on the butt section, hiding the joints.

In the absence of an opportunity in the construction of a cut, the joints are formed in a checkerboard pattern, for a more reliable fixation of the logs.

Making a bath from wood has another unpleasant consequence, such as cracking a log. Since a tree is a living organism, inside of which there is moisture, after a certain treatment it dries up and loses its strength. Since moisture begins to evaporate from the central part of the logs, it is on them that the greatest load is placed, leading to cracking. To avoid the appearance of this process, it is required to make a sawing of a deformation purpose, which will help to remove moisture without consequences for the log.

In addition, there is a danger of bluing or darkening of the wood. This procedure occurs due to a decrease in the quality of wood under the influence of moisture, sun, temperature changes and other factors. Logs are especially sensitive to fungi or mold that are in the air and through it get to the surface. by the most optimal conditions for the reproduction of the fungus, the air temperature is +22 and the humidity is more than 90%, so it is recommended to equip the bath with good ventilation, which will prevent this process.

In addition, it is required to periodically treat the wood with antiseptic preparations and impregnations. If the blue has already appeared on the surface, then it should be sanded well and a bleaching agent applied.

Before installing the bars, you should take care of their treatment with preparations that will protect the tree from the sun, moisture and other external influences. You should not save on the purchase of these materials, as they can extend the life of a wooden bath several times. published

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