What materials are used to build terraces? How to attach a veranda to a private house with your own hands - from foundation to finishing We make a strip foundation.

Terrace, translated from Latin as "earth", which actually reflects the essence of this design - a platform arranged on the ground.

In places where the climate is warm and dry, it can serve as a living room in nature. In our latitudes, the terrace is glazed, and it turns into a veranda.

But, not everyone professes the principle of rationality - therefore, today wooden open terraces are again popular. And the extension of the terrace to wooden house Generally a classic of the genre.

If you are interested in how to make a wooden terrace with your own hands, then this information is intended for you.

It should be noted that the construction of a wooden terrace begins long before you buy the material and pick up a hammer. This is already the final stage.

Types of terraces - design choice

To begin with, let's figure out what affects the choice of a terrace device, and at the same time we'll see what a wooden terrace looks like in the photo.

The type of terrace, the quantity and range of materials, the cost and duration of work is determined by the following design features.

1. Location

• Adjacency. Verandas and terraces made of wood can have both a common foundation with the house, and can be attached after.

• Location. The terrace can be adjacent to the house or be an independent structure located on the territory of the site.

This is what wooden terraces and verandas are famous for, that they can be installed anywhere, because. they are light and do not require the construction of a foundation.

2. Construction

• Shape and size. Depends on the terrain allocated for the terrace on suburban area(slope, plain, garden), functional purpose, landscape design plot, desires and capabilities of the owner.

And do not be limited by the presence of trees in the selected area. The photo shows how organically they can fit into the terrace.

• Number of levels - single-level or multi-level terrace

• Location of levels: on the ground or raised above the ground

3. Additional elements

• The presence and type of fencing. Open (with free access) and fenced. Garden bushes, stone, wood or metal (forged fences) can act as a decorative fence for a wooden terrace.

• The presence of a roof or a canopy for a terrace (the roof can be glass, sliding, retractable, transparent polycarbonate): open, partially closed, covered terrace.

4. Finishing

The choice of material for the terrace

One more important point. It is important for us that all the material used is resistant to moisture (rain, snow), wind, temperature changes and UV radiation.

For work you will need

1. timber for beams, supports and decking. Terraces made of wood or logs look beautiful and light;
2. roof material (if any);
3. protective impregnations;
4. fasteners;
5. tool.

How to make a wooden terrace with your own hands - instructions

Consider each of the stages of construction in detail.

1. Surface preparation

For a low (ground adjacent) terrace:

• clean the surface of the turf and, if possible, level;

• backfill the area with a mixture of sand and gravel. It can be poured with concrete, this will eliminate the likelihood of plant germination.

Tip: If you are going to lay the tree directly on the ground, make sure it is well treated and can withstand moisture.

For a multi-level terrace:

• clear of perennial plants, bushes, debris.

2. Installation of supports

Supports allow you to adjust the surface. Their minimum height is 150 mm. Purpose - the possibility of air circulation.

For a small lightweight design fit:

• metal corners;

• plastic adjustable supports;

• concrete supports;

• cast support (the depth of pouring is equal to the depth of soil freezing in your area).

For a massive structure, you need to arrange a strip or column foundation for the terrace

3. Installation of beams under the terrace

Beams are installed on supports, checked by level and fixed. It is important to check the level frequently as any violation will lead to the fact that in some places water will accumulate.

The material was prepared for the site www.site

4. Log installation

Installation begins from the place where the terrace adjoins the house. The first log is attached to the house with a step of 600 mm. For brick wall a bolt 100 mm long is enough. For wood - at least 150 mm. The junction is insulated to prevent water leakage.

Logs can be mounted on base beams.

In the place where a wooden terrace is attached to a brick house, a galvanized visor is used.

The addition of a terrace to a wooden house puts forward increased requirements for waterproofing.

6. Floorboard flooring

How to cover a wooden terrace?

There is a wide variety of decking timber available on the market. They vary in size, thickness and breed.

The wooden floor on the terrace is the perfect solution. Most often used in different widths or parquet blocks.

For an open wooden terrace, it is preferable to use larch. This is the most durable and stable breed.

Advice:
Try to lay the boards so that they are joined along as little as possible.

Ways of fastening the terrace and floor boards

Fixing is done in two ways:

The self-tapping screw passes through the board and fastens it to the log. The method is easy, but bad in that water can stagnate at the attachment point and the board will begin to collapse;

Allows you to protect the surface of the board. Suitable when using a special floor board.

With the use of clamps.

Tip: A small distance of 5-7 mm should be left between the boards so that the water that has entered can freely leave.

9. Surface treatment with protective solutions

A reasonable question arises: how to paint a wooden terrace? In addition to the fact that the tree needs to be protected from moisture and to prevent rotting, it also needs to be protected from ultraviolet radiation. So that wood does not lose its attractiveness over time. To do this, purchase wood oil with a UF filter.

Every little thing, created with love, decorates the house. For relaxation in the bosom of nature, a do-it-yourself veranda is the best suited. This place can serve for organizing family celebrations or private leisure activities.

Design Basics

Sketch of a house with a veranda

It is necessary to consider the veranda as part of the house, and not to single it out as an independent building. A feature of the veranda is that its construction can be carried out simultaneously with the main building or some time after the completion of the construction of the house. As a rule, the extension is carried out from the side of the facade or from the end, that is, in any case, a ready-made doorway is required. Sometimes, the absence of a door does not stop the flight of design ideas, but the decision is made to create another door in the required place.

Verandas are:

• open. In this case, the walls are partially (upper half) missing. The roof is installed on beams;
• closed. At the same time, half or most of the walls are glazed.

The veranda should continue the style of the house

When developing a veranda project, the style of the house should be taken into account, its size and shape should harmoniously serve as a continuation of the main building, while the choice of materials should also be appropriate. The most suitable sizes for it are within the following limits:

• length - 4-7 m;
• width 2.5-3.5 m.

A smaller area can turn a veranda into a cramped room of indefinite purpose, and a large one will violate the harmony and comfort that such a structure should create.

Heating of the veranda, most often, including enclosed spaces, is not provided.

Material selection

When designing a veranda, you should use the rule: the style of this extension should stylistically match the house. In addition, the compatibility of materials and their combinatoriality should be taken into account. Consider the most popular materials for building verandas.

Do-it-yourself veranda made of polycarbonate: a modern solution

Polycarbonate is modern material, which successfully competes with traditional materials.

Polycarbonate - a modern material

Polycarbonate is a very durable material and, therefore, its manufacturers rightly declare that it is safe to use. The material has good flexibility, and its deformation does not require special thermal preparation or devices; it can be worked with at any temperature. The cost of the material is relatively low. If we compare with glass, then the difference in prices of these materials is significant.

Due to a significant increase in the deformation coefficient, temperature drops negatively affect. For specialists, this factor is nothing more than a certain inconvenience when glazing. The linear expansion of the material can be leveled by increasing the gaps between the frame and the glazing material.

Sketch of a polycarbonate veranda

Polycarbonate scratches easily, which can lead to rapid haze. In addition, with prolonged exposure to ultraviolet radiation, the material may take on a yellowish tint. In order to prevent the occurrence of this phenomenon, a protective film is used, which, in addition to the main function, further strengthens the polycarbonate.

Wooden do-it-yourself veranda: eco-friendly and beautiful

Wooden veranda: simple and eco-friendly

The most common material is wood. In the presence of new materials in the market of building materials and innovative technologies construction, the leading positions of this material remain unchanged.

When building a veranda, the choice of construction method is quite wide. It can be made frame-panel, block or log. The last option is suitable for a house built in the form of a log house. For building construction with my own hands the most suitable for its simplicity and cost is a frame-panel veranda.

The wooden extension has a small mass, is safe for the environment and people, and will also have a relatively low cost.

It should be understood that wood is quite a fire hazardous material. In addition, it requires special treatment that protects against the effects of biological factors.

Do-it-yourself veranda made of bricks. popular material

brick veranda

The construction of a brick veranda has several advantages. On hot days, this room stays cool. The material does not need special care, has a long service life and fire safety. The brick structure has exceptional reliability and durability.

If such a room is additionally insulated and double-glazed, then, if there is heating in it, you can enjoy spending time on the veranda at any time of the year.

Due to the fact that the brick structure has a significant mass, it is imperative to organize a reinforced foundation.

How to build a veranda - step by step instructions for the craftsman

Foundation

The foundation of the veranda is an important matter

If the foundation was not laid, it should be built in accordance with the selected type. As a rule, they construct a foundation of a tape or column type. If the area of ​​the planned construction is swampy, then it is necessary to use piles. At the same time, for its correct choice, it is necessary to adequately assess the combination of the following factors: the material used, the type of foundation of the main structure, the characteristics of the soil and its slope.

The foundation of the tape type is made of concrete, blocks, bricks, stone. For its installation, a pillow of sand or gravel is organized. In most cases, it is not tied to the house and is erected as a separate building.

For lightweight structures, a columnar foundation is built. These include structures made of wood or polycarbonate. brick or iron concrete pillars placed on a bed of sand. Waterproofing is done on them, after which the log and floors are laid.

Column type foundation

frame

As the frame of the structure, a beam with a cross section of the order of 100x100 mm or logs of the appropriate size will be required. The lower strapping belt must be made of dense wood, it is best if it is oak.

Veranda frame

Connections in the corners of the structure are carried out half a tree. The bottom strapping must be done with a double layer of material. A lag is made in it to organize the floor. The racks are fastened with spikes to the lower strapping belt with fixation with nails and staples. It is allowed to replace the beams from solid material with prefabricated racks from boards. The strapping of the upper belt is fixed to the racks and later the rafters are mounted on them. Fasteners occur in the same way - through spikes and nails.

A horizontal beam is fixed to the wall of the main building. She, as well as the racks that are adjacent to the wall, are reinforced with anchors.

It is important that the roofs of the veranda and the house join together with the latter entering under the roof of the main building.

Roof

The roof of the veranda is made single-pitched with a greater flatness compared to the roof of the house. It is desirable that the material of the roof of the veranda and the house be the same. This optional requirement is due to aesthetic considerations. Choice roofing material- the question is not fundamental.

It should be understood that the use of a metal profile sheet will require soundproofing measures.

The construction of the roof begins with the installation of the crate. For this purpose, an unedged board is used, the laying of which is carried out in a horizontal plane at certain intervals. Roofing material is placed on the crate. The small slope of the roof of the veranda makes it overlap somewhat more than is usually done. Experts recommend organizing waterproofing with roofing material.

Floor

The laying of the boards that will make up the floor takes place on the logs that were previously prepared. Boards must be at least 40 mm thick. Prior to the start of work, antiseptic treatment of the material is carried out. At the end of the installation, the boards are painted.

For the circulation of air masses, ventilation holes are installed in the underground.

Window installation

Windows are provided on the veranda, the dimensions of which are larger than in the main building. This is due to the fact that the room involves operation in the warm season, when there is enough sunlight to illuminate the room. The location of the window sill board should be at a distance of about 500 mm from the floor.

Most often, the windows have single glazing. Frames can be mounted on racks, which will create a showcase type of glazing. Elimination of gaps occurs with the help of building foam, which later close the platbands.

Walls

The choice of wall material depends on the preferences of the owners of the house and the requirements described above for the design of the veranda.

The easiest option for do-it-yourself installation is to use a tongue-and-groove board, which is connected to each other in the same way as a lining and attached to the racks.

Do-it-yourself veranda: construction video

In the proposed videos you can see the process of building a veranda.

Veranda: photos of interesting solutions

The veranda is the decoration of the site. Look at the photos of various porches for inspiration.

Veranda with sliding wall
Veranda with stairs
Veranda with curtains

Perhaps, knowing all the options, it will be easier for you to make a choice among the large selection of materials that the modern construction market offers.

Structures for the construction of the veranda

In the second part of the veranda material, we will look at the materials that are used for the following veranda designs:

• roof structure and roofing;
• floors;
• window;
• doors.

Veranda roof

If the veranda is attached from the side of the pediment, then it is most advisable to position the roof of the veranda so that its roof and the roof of the house have a common slope: the slope of the trusses is made the same. This will eliminate the need to arrange various grooves or valleys, the construction of which is not an easy process in itself, and in addition, their presence increases the risk of leaks at the junctions.

There are different options for creating veranda roofs - it all depends on the specific architecture of the house; original designs can be developed during design.

Consider the standard attached veranda frame structure: This is usually a shed roof that is adjacent to the roof of the main building.

The roof is laid on the crate. The crate is most often made from unedged boards 32x100 mm, which are laid horizontally. The length of the boards should be 1.10 -1.20 greater than the distance between the extreme rafters so that the resulting roof canopy protects the end walls from oblique rain.

The pitch of the crate depends on the type of material and is 300-350 mm. The roofing material of the slope of the veranda must go under the lower edge of the roofing material of the slope of the house for a length of at least 5 cm, otherwise, during showers, water may penetrate through the joint between the slopes.

On the one hand, the rafters rest on the framing of the wall facade frame, on the other hand, on a support measuring 50x100 mm. If the foundation is columnar, then the step of the supports and rafters is equal to the step of the foundation columns. Attic floor beams are made of boards 50x100mm, which are fastened to the upper trim of the structure and supports with nails 4x120 mm.

The cost of the crate: from 3 dollars / m2.

Roofing materials

In the case of an attached veranda, builders say that the same material that covers the roof of the house is most often used. But you can use other materials:

• roll,
• steel,
• slate,
• metal tile,
• polycarbonate,
• natural materials.

You can read about the various roofs made of natural materials and the construction of roofs in the article.

Let's consider roofs from other materials:

Roofing from roll materials

Advantages:

• Do not let in moisture.
• Low coefficient of thermal conductivity of 0.17 W/m*K.

Disadvantages:

• Short-lived - service life of 3-5 years.
• Do not release steam from the room, vapor permeability is close to zero.

Roofing from rolled materials:

• Create a solid wooden flooring from edged boards.
• The flooring is fixed to the rafters with nails (nail heads must be recessed into the boards).
• The rolled material is laid out on the floor, leveled, tacked along the edges with nails.
• Nailed slats that fix the laid material.
• From above, the slats are covered with strips of rolled material. They are nailed with roofing nails.
• On the lower edge of the roof, the rolls are bent under the crate by 10 cm, then fastened with the same nails.

Cost: 250 rubles/roll (15 meters long and 1 meter wide).

Slate roof

Advantages of slate:

• Durability - 30-40 years.
• Frost resistance - withstands 25 cycles of freezing and thawing.
• Doesn't let moisture through.
• Low thermal conductivity - coefficient 0.35 W/m*K.
• Resistant to aggressive environments.
• Does not support combustion.

Slate Disadvantages:

• Brittleness, breaks easily.
• Tendency to lose water resistance after several years of use.
• Mildew resistant.

Slate roofing:

• Arrange a crate.
• Slate sheets are attached to the crate so that they overlap by one “wave”, that is, so that each top sheet overlaps the bottom one by 12-14 cm.
• The sheets are fastened with screws (nails) 70-90 mm long, and under them in the crests of the "waves" holes are drilled with a diameter of 2-3 mm larger than the diameter of the screw or nail.

Cost: from 7 USD/m2.

Roofing from a metal tile

The metal tile is made of galvanized steel or aluminum. Sheets of galvanized steel are primed on both sides, they are covered with colored plastic, resistant to aggressive environments. The surface of the metal tile can be made matte or shiny. She can imitate the texture ceramic tiles. Aluminum also undergoes anti-corrosion treatment. Sheets of metal tiles can be laid on top of the old roof. The angle of inclination of the roof of the veranda is not less than 12 degrees. You can cut the metal tile with a "grinder" with a diamond disc.

Advantages:

• Longevity - 30 years or more;
• Strength;
• Does not pass moisture;
• UV resistant;
• Light weight 3-5 kg/sq.m.

Disadvantages:

• High thermal conductivity: coefficient 230 W/m*K;
• High sound permeability - it will not protect against the noise of rain, wind.

Metal roofing device:

• Arrange a crate (solid or sparse).
• Sheets of metal tiles are overlapped and fastened to the crate with self-tapping screws.
• Consumption of self-tapping screws (3x30) with special gaskets at the rate of 8-9 pcs / sq.m.
• The laying of metal tiles begins from the lower right corner of the roof of the veranda.

  Sheets of material are laid without overhang, the transverse edge of the sheet must be on the crate, with this laying, the screws will fall exactly into the crate when fastening the sheets.

• The next sheets are laid so that the protrusions of the top sheet enter the recesses of the previous one. The longitudinal edges of the sheets must be on the same straight line.
• The next row starts from the bottom, overlapping in one wave on the previously laid row.
• In places where the sheets adjoin the wall of the house, additional elements are installed on the wall. They are attached to the wall of the house with self-tapping screws with gaskets, and the joint is then sealed with silicone mastics.

The cost of a roof made of metal: 4.7-12.3 dollars / m2.

Polycarbonate roof

Polycarbonates are a sheet of polymeric materials with a layered structure that transmits 98% of the light. There are panels with a thickness of 4, 6, 8, 10, 16 and 25 mm. For roofs, panels with a thickness of 25 mm are used. Standard colors: bronze, transparent, white, blue, green, red, grey. The slope of the roof must be at least 5 degrees.

Advantages:

• Durability - 40 years and more;
• Aesthetics;
• It has a low coefficient of thermal conductivity -0.08 W/m*K;
• Lets light through;
• Does not support combustion;
• Light material - up to 2.8 kg/m2;
• Easy to mount: the edges of the sheet are inserted into the grooves of the double profile.

Disadvantages:

• In snowy conditions, such a roof will not transmit light.
• When melted, it releases toxic substances.
• The protective layer protects against UV exposure for up to 5 years.

Polycarbonate roofing device:

• On device pitched roof the stiffening ribs of the cellular polycarbonate panels should be located along the slope, in the arched covering - along the arc (the panel cannot be bent along a radius smaller than indicated by the manufacturer).
• The edges of the panel must be placed on the supporting supports of the frame.
• Only panels with a UV protective layer are used. The side of the sheet with the protective layer should be oriented outwards.
• It is better to mount sheets in a film, which must be removed immediately after installation is completed.
• To connect the panels to each other and fasten them to the frame of the structure, connecting profiles are used.
• Connecting profiles with rubber seals are installed on the supporting frame supports and fastened to them with self-tapping screws. The system of connecting profiles acts as a basis. Sheets of cellular polycarbonate are laid on the base.
• Polycarbonate sheets are attached to the base with self-tapping screws (it is recommended to use "thermal washers d = 3.3 cm"). The use of a thermal washer also prevents the panel from collapsing. To compensate for the thermal expansion of the material, it is necessary to make holes 2-3 mm larger than the diameter of the thermal washer leg. If the panel is long, then the holes should be elongated into an oval and located at a distance of at least 4 cm from the edge of the sheet.
• Panel ends must be closed. The upper ends must be closed hermetically with self-adhesive aluminum tape, the lower ends must be closed with perforated tape to protect against dust and condensate drainage.

The cost of a polycarbonate roof: 10-40 USD / m2 (depending on the properties of the material and the manufacturer).

Veranda floor

It is better to start laying the floor last, but before the start of finishing work. They can be covered with boards, linoleum, facing tiles, make them liquid.

Materials for the floor of the veranda

plank floor verandas are arranged according to the same principle as for the main building (the boards are 29 and 37 mm thick, the width of the boards is 74-124 mm).

Advantages:

• Environmental friendliness.
• Low thermal conductivity - coefficient 0.2 W/m*K.

Disadvantages:

• The need for antiseptic treatment, paint coating.
• Flammability.

Wooden floor installation:

• Compact the soil, lay a layer of concrete or clay. On this layer, columns are laid out with a height of four bricks, height - 150-200 mm. The distance between the columns is 0.8-1 m.
• Lay two layers of waterproofing roofing or roofing material, an antiseptic wooden gasket on the posts, and then install the logs.
• Lay soundproof gaskets from insulating fibreboard with a thickness of 12.5 mm.
• Logs are installed on the lower harness (you can read about the lower harness and its device in the article

  Logs are made from unplaned boards from coniferous and soft hardwood, species, except for poplar and linden. If the logs are 40 mm thick, then the distance between the posts is 900 mm, if their thickness is 50 mm, then the distance between the posts is 1100 mm, the thickness of 60 mm corresponds to a distance of 1,200 mm. The width of the lag is usually 100-120 mm.

• Boards are laid on logs. Logs and floorboards must be antiseptic. Each board of a clean floor is attached to the joists with nails with a length twice the thickness of the board, that is, for boards with a thickness of 29 mm, nails 60-70 mm long are suitable. Nails are hammered into the boards obliquely, sinking the hats. First, the nails are driven into the extreme logs, and then gradually move from the edges to the center.
• Gaps in when laying boards should not exceed 1 mm.
• Smooth out irregularities.

Cost: from 7 USD/m2.

Ceramic tile floors

The tiles are available in sizes 10x10 and 15x15 cm.

Advantages:

• Do not pass moisture;
• Not affected by fungus and mold;
• Aesthetic;
• Easy to wash;
• Easily repaired: if a tile is broken, it can be replaced: a broken tile is knocked out with a chisel, the remains of the solution are removed under it. The base under the removed tile is moistened with water, then laid new tile on a fresh solution and overwrite the seams;
• They do not support combustion.

Disadvantages:

• Relatively high thermal conductivity - coefficient 3.5 W/m*K;
• Susceptible to mechanical stress: shock, abrasion.

Ceramic tile floors:

• A cement-sand mortar is applied to the base, and then it is leveled at a width of 50-75 cm. The mortar laying thickness should be 20 mm, the joint width should be 2-3 mm, the maximum grain size should be 3 mm, the cement consumption per 1 m3 of mortar should be 450 kg.
• The surface of the solution is sprinkled with cement (consumption: 0.5 kg/m2).
• The tile is laid on the mortar and pressed to the base, tapping with a rubber mallet.
• After 1-2 days, the seams are sealed with cement mortar.

Cost: from 8 USD/m2.

PVC floor tiles

Tiles sizes 250x250, 300x300, 500x500, 650x650 mm and 150x300, 300x500 mm. Tiles are made from polyvinyl chloride, fillers, plasticizers, pigments, etc.

Advantages:

• Aesthetics;
• Do not support combustion;
• Easily replaced during repairs;
• Do not let in moisture.

Disadvantages:

• When melted, toxic substances are released.
• Susceptible to mechanical stress: shock.
• Cannot withstand high wear loads.
• Not resistant to abrasives, greases and oils.
• The laboriousness of work.

Flooring made of PVC tiles:

• Before laying PVC tiles, you need to finish everything Finishing work. The base must be strong, rigid and dry.
• The base of the floor is cleaned and primed with a solution of bitumen in gasoline in a ratio of 1:3.
• After the primer dries, apply a second primer layer and wait another 5-10 hours.
• Center axes are created along which tiles are laid. They are located perpendicular to the line of the walls from their middle. Axes can be marked with attached cords.
• Cold bituminous mastic is applied to the base slightly wider than the row of tiles by 8-10 cm and on the reverse side of the tiles with a layer of 0.3-0.6 mm.
• The surface of the mastic is leveled with a notched trowel.
• After half an hour, the tile can be glued, gently pressing it to the mastic with the entire surface. The glued tiles are attached close to the row laid on one side, and to the marking cord on the other.
• Tapping on the tile with a rubber mallet, press it to the base.
• The floor of PVC tiles should not have noticeable seams. Tiles should not protrude above the common surface - put on the protruding tiles until the mortar hardens wooden block and besieged with a hammer. If the tile turns out to be buried in relation to others, then it must be removed, another mortar added and pressed with a hammer.
• Pay attention to the width of the tile joints, it depends on the size of the tile. If the size of the side of the tile is up to 200 mm, then the seam is approximately 2 mm. If the tile size is 300 mm, then the seam is 3-4 mm. Seams should be straight and mutually perpendicular.
• Check the tile pattern. Swipe the spatula along the row, it should not touch the edges of the tiles. If the row is laid out unevenly, then within half an hour you can correct it.
• In order for the tiles to better adhere to the base, they are pressed with a load of 8-10 kg.

Mastics are applied: bituminous, coumarone-neuritic KN-2 and KN-3, based on polyvinyl acetate emulsion, as well as adhesives: perchlorovinyl (PVC), nairite (NT) and No. 4010. When using bituminous and coumarone-neuritic mastics, the tiles are heated to 50-60 ° FROM.

Cost: from 15 USD/m2.

Linoleum flooring with and without fabric backing

Linoleum is widely used for flooring.

Linoleum happens: without a substrate and on a substrate.

Advantages:

• Ease of installation;
• Easy to wash;
• Do not pass moisture;
• Low thermal conductivity - coefficient 0.05.

Disadvantages:

Linoleum flooring:

• The material before laying should be at a temperature of 15 degrees above zero for 2 days.
• The substrate must be dry and clean.
• The day before gluing, the rolls must be cut into adjacent layers and rolled out.
• Cold bituminous mastic in an even layer 0.2-0.3 mm thick. apply to the substrate with a notched trowel.
• Lay the linoleum and glue it: press the panels firmly to the base so that there are no bulges. Adjacent layers should lie with an overlap of 10-20 mm. (The overlap is cut off with a sharp knife after 2-3 days, for this a metal ruler is placed along the edge, and the cut is made along it.)
• The gaps between the edge of the linoleum panel and the wall should not be more than 10 mm. Later they are covered with skirting boards.

Cost: from 10 USD/m2.

Linoleum floors without underlayment: polyvinyl chloride and colloxylin

Advantages:

• Easy to install;
• Do not pass moisture;
• Easy to wash.

Disadvantages:

• When melted, it releases harmful substances.
• The thermal conductivity is higher than that of linoleums with a substrate - a coefficient of 0.15 W / m * K.
• Does not let steam out of the room, vapor permeability is close to zero.

Installation of linoleum floors without a substrate:

• Withstand linoleum at a temperature of 15 degrees for 2 days.
• Dry and level the base.
• For a day, they are cut and laid out on the floor.
• Mastic KN-2 is applied to the base with a layer thickness of 0.5 mm with a notched trowel.
• Withstand 4-6 hours.
• Mastic is applied to the underside of the linoleum, kept for 15-20 minutes.

  (The edges of 6-8 cm are not coated, the edges are glued 2-3 days after the panels are glued).

• Glue linoleum over the entire surface of the floor.
• After 2-3 days, a ruler is applied to the joint of the edges and the edges are cut off with a sharp knife.

Cost: from 7 USD/m2.

self-leveling floor

Bulk floors are created from materials with high fluidity.

Advantages:

• Longevity - 20 years or more.
• Abrasion resistance - 820 cubic mm / hour.
• Resistance to mechanical stress (compressive strength up to 60 MPa).
• Easy to wash.

Disadvantages:

[*] Do not let steam out of the room, vapor permeability is close to zero.

Self-leveling floor device:

• Clean and level the base. All potholes must be puttied, the base impregnated with priming emulsions.
• The solution is evenly poured parallel to one of the walls. Then it is levelled.
• After a few hours, the floor can already be used.

Cost: with work - 30 USD/m2.

Veranda windows and doors

Window

Windows play an essential role in creating a veranda. Their size, alternation of narrow and wide glazed spaces, arrangement and design influence the overall impression of the whole house. For sufficient illumination of the veranda, the area of ​​\u200b\u200bwindows should be at least half the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe walls. If the veranda is not insulated and will be used only in summer, then most often the windows of the veranda are made with single glazing. In this case, window boxes are made from wooden beams. The resulting gaps between the wall and the box after installation can be caulked with felt, foamed, and then plastered.

Aluminum and plastic frames are also used. There is a method of frameless glazing, while fastening is provided with adhesive-sealant and rubber seals. Such structures are installed by specialists.

You can install a double wooden window frame (this type of glazing is most typical for cold climates). If the walls of the veranda are wide enough, that is, they are made of logs, beams, bricks, then the distance between the frames is determined by the thickness of the wall. Twin sashes with double glazing can also be installed. In this case, the bindings are installed close to each other. Glasses are attached to the frames with putty or glazing bead - wooden slats. Glasses with a thickness of 2 mm are usually used. They can be regular or tinted. The slats fasten the glass and are nailed to the frame every 25-30 cm.

Windows can be made from stained glass, can play the role of sliding doors (the so-called French window). But in this case, care must be taken that the space in front of such a window is free from snow. It is better when there are high steps, a terrace and a canopy in front of such a window.

The mounting width of double-glazed windows is approximately 60-70 mm. Unlike wooden frames, double-glazed windows do not support combustion, they do not need maintenance and painting, they do not undergo deformation. Expensive Options double-glazed windows provide an outer frame made of plastic, and an inner frame made of hard wood.

Price: wooden frame, single glazing - from 30 USD / m2, frameless glazing - 100 USD / m2, PVC double-glazed windows - from 70 USD / m2.

doors

The doors leading to the veranda from the side of the courtyard are selected in accordance with the general architectural design of the veranda and the house as a whole. Doors must open outwards. The entrance should be with a threshold, as the threshold will help to save heat.

Door materials

solid wood doors

These doors are made from real wood.

.

Advantages:

• Provide sound insulation - sound insulation coefficient - up to 32 dB;
• Durable;
• Beautiful, perfect for homes of any architectural style.

Disadvantages:

Despite the processing, the tree still tends to shrink, warp, change color. Solid wood doors are more durable.

Price- from 350 USD out the door

Doors made of metal-plastic

Advantages:

• Durable - can be equipped with anti-burglary elements;
• Beautiful appearance;
• The metal-plastic profile consists of chambers, and due to this, these doors have low thermal conductivity;
• Protect from noise - sound insulation coefficient - 45 dB.

Disadvantages:

• High price.
• When melted, it releases harmful substances.

Cost: from 200 USD. out the door.

Doors combined

They are based on a bar frame.

Finishing

• veneer of valuable wood species;
• plastic, laminate;
• inlay with metal or glass;
• painting, varnishing.

Placeholders

1. Paper

Advantages:

Light weight - up to 5 kg/m2.

Disadvantages:

Low strength.

2. Squared(filling with coniferous bars)

Advantages:

Strength.

disadvantages

Heavy weight - up to 15 kg/m2.

3. Chipboard filling

Advantages:

Strength.

Disadvantages:

The cost is increasing.

Metal doors

Advantages:

• Strength,
• Resistance to vandalism and burglary, if they use a special filler in the space between the sheets of the door, then it is able to stop the spread of fire,
• You can choose the type of coverage you want.

Disadvantages: usually not used in unheated rooms.

Cost: from 300 USD. out the door.

Panel and panel doors

The panel door consists of a framework, a filler and a covering of two. Fillers can be very diverse, they can be made with metal sheets as a filler. Finishing is made with plastic, sheet wood-shaving materials.

Advantages:

Lightness - up to 3 kg/sq.m.

Disadvantages:

• combustibility;
• Deformations from atmospheric precipitation;
• Cracking.

Cost: from 20 dollars. for a canvas with a box up to 100 dollars. depending on filling.

Paneled doors

They consist of vertical and transverse bars, mullions and panels. The panel is located between the bars.

Advantages:

• Light weight - up to 5-6/m2.
• Possibility of various decorative solutions.

Disadvantages:

• Hygroscopicity;
• Deformations. The more panels, the less deformation will be.

Cost: from 150 USD. out the door.

Attention! All prices in the article are approximate and at the time of 2010, without taking into account the features of a particular design, additional elements, locks, decoration, etc.

Anyone who has built at least once knows how difficult it is to choose construction material from the wide range that the construction market offers, and we hope that the options discussed in our article will make it easier for you to choose.

With the help of a small extension to a private house, you can not only change its appearance, but also solve a number of everyday problems by expanding the useful area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe building. When erecting verandas, various materials, schemes (for example, open type or closed), design solutions are used.

Obviously, the location of the house on the site, as well as its orientation relative to the cardinal points, can be different. But there are some general recommendations for the construction of extensions to the house with your own hands (terraces, verandas), which you should be aware of and, if possible, put into practice.

What to consider

Compatibility of materials. There is such a concept in construction, and this is due, first of all, to thermal expansion. Therefore, it is advisable to use the same building materials for the construction of a veranda or terrace as for a house. For example, combinations of brick (house) + wood (veranda) are not the best option.

Appointment of an extension. It can be used in different ways - as a "tambour", through which the entrance to the building is carried out; as a summer dining room, a winter garden, a greenhouse (and the entrance to the building may be in another place) - there are many options. Based on this, the optimal dimensions of the extension are determined. Opinions differ as to its length.

Some believe that the veranda should go along the entire wall, others - no more than 4 - 5 m. But the width is unambiguous - within 3 m (with slight deviations). Otherwise, the extension becomes unnecessarily cumbersome and introduces dissonance into the appearance of the entire building.

In the context of this, it is necessary to determine how the veranda will be used - only in the season or all year round? Based on this, the issue of the degree of its insulation and the feasibility of laying a heating circuit (with connection to a common house) or installing autonomous heating devices (for example, reflectors, and so on) is being decided.

Foundation type. As a continuation of the previous paragraph - it is necessary to decide on its the best option. This largely depends on the expected load and soil characteristics. Considering that the extension is being made on an already inhabited site, it is advisable to stop the choice on a pile or columnar foundation. So the volume earthworks can be minimized, and without the risk of damaging plantings and engineering Communication laid on the territory and suitable for the building.

Construction order

We will omit the issues of project development and procurement of materials. Partially, this has already been said, and about other features of the preparatory measures - a little lower. Therefore, we will start immediately directly with the construction work.

Marking the site for the veranda

Before starting the construction of the foundation, it is necessary to clarify the laying of all communications routes (water supply, electric / cable, and so on). After that, the points are marked at which the supports will be placed. The layout of their arrangement is simple - in the corners of the extension, in the places where it adjoins the walls of the house, and also every 1.5 - 2 m along the perimeter of the veranda.

Site preparation

It is necessary to remove the top layer of the earth along the entire marked contour (pegs + cord) to a depth of about 15 cm. This will get rid of the root system of vegetation and prevent its development under the extension floor. In the resulting "pit" it is advisable to pour a sand-gravel mixture (SGM, small gravel) and tamp well. But this is done after the installation of the supports.

Foundation arrangement

Often, the owners prudently leave a hole in this fence (as an option, they put a small door). Why not a home for a mongrel? And the booth can be removed from the territory.

Base frame

For its installation, as a rule, pre-treated timber is used - the most reliable option. Holes are pre-drilled in each sample, into which, after installing them in place, the pins fixed in the supports will enter. This will prevent the workpieces from shifting during operation.

frame

Its assembly consists in the installation of support pillars, which serve as a "skeleton" for all further construction. Sometimes long logs are taken, which serve at the same time as the supports of the base, and the "ribs" of the frame. But this is only suitable for light extensions that are operated only in the warm season.

What to use in the process of building a veranda is decided by the owner, based on material capabilities and overall design. As a rule, wood is used to build a veranda, but there are pipe structures (for the frame) that are sheathed with plastic (for example, polycarbonate sheets).

Accordingly, depending on the idea of ​​the master, window and door openings are arranged (for example, from the street and into the courtyard).

The upper piping of the supports is made based on the laying of one or another roofing material. Therefore, either a crate (cellular) or a solid flooring is mounted. For it, you can use MDF, chipboard, thick (multilayer) plywood. The only thing to consider is the steepness of the slope. It must be at least 40.

Everything else is similar to the construction of any building. Laying a log, a subfloor, its surface finish and so on - methods and materials are chosen by the owners depending on local conditions.

Roof

The only thing to note is that it must be equipped from the same type of product that was used in the construction of the house.

If we are talking about a private building, and not a modest country house, then the extension should be legalized, that is, all the documents required for it should be drawn up. Life presents us with various surprises, and it is not a fact that the owner after a while will not decide to sell the house (rent it out, donate it, and so on). And here all the “alterations” that are not reflected in the passport of the building will come up. It would take quite a long time to list what problems this will cause. Suffice it to point out that they will be large and, in monetary terms, very painful. Only one fine, given its size, will spoil the mood for a long time and significantly hit the pocket.

Therefore, you will have to order a project. It doesn't mean mandatory conclusion contracts with a specialized organization for the construction itself, since all work is easily done independently. But the technical documentation should be prepared by professionals, according to all the rules.

It is not recommended to combine the foundations of the house and extensions into a single structure. The reason is simple - the different weight of structures. Therefore, shrinkage will be different.

All wooden blanks must be well impregnated. In the private sector, used engine oil is often used as an antiseptic, rather than purchased formulations - the effect is almost the same.

Veranda to the house: projects, do-it-yourself photos in the country, video and useful information- you will find all this in this article. A veranda is an open or closed extension that serves as a living room, a place to relax or a room for clothes. The name comes from the Portuguese word varanda, which translates as a glazed terrace.

The material presented is divided into four parts:

• In the first part, we will tell you what a closed and open veranda attached to a house is, as well as their characteristic features. We will select the optimal materials for the construction of the frame and roofing. We will also touch on the topic of the foundation.
• In the second chapter, a do-it-yourself veranda project for a house from a bar with a polycarbonate roof is presented, in the form of a building open type.
• The third chapter tells about how to make a veranda in a closed-type cottage from expanded clay blocks with a metal profile roof.
• In conclusion, a couple more tips - let's talk about possible construction defects, insulation, flooring and inserting windows into the building.

Do-it-yourself veranda to the house - projects and photos of how to do it will be further in this material

You can use the navigation bar and navigate to the overview chapter you are interested in, or immediately learn how to build a veranda with your own hands. Let's get to the review part!

Closed or open veranda attached to the house?

Open and closed types of verandas have their pros and cons, which you need to think about before starting construction.

The difference in the closed and open veranda attached to the house is based on the following principles:

• the amount of materials;
• weather protection;
• storage space;
• having an overview.

First of all, the extension of the veranda to the house spends much more resources on its construction than the open one. It requires fully built walls with window openings, insert window frames and a more solid foundation that can withstand a lot of walls.

Weather protection and storage space go hand in hand. On a closed veranda with a door, it is quite possible to take shelter during a storm and calmly drink tea while your neighbors from the house watch how rain fills their terrace board in an open area. It's the same with storage - on a closed veranda, it's quite possible to leave a bicycle for the winter, without thinking that someone might steal it.

On the other hand, an open veranda to the house gives an excellent overview without requiring the insertion of large and expensive windows. On a sunny day, it is quite possible to arrange an afternoon siesta on it, relaxing in a light breeze from the midday heat.

After the decision is made on what type of veranda is needed, try to develop a future layout for it on paper. This does not require special skills, but even the most banal sketches will help determine the amount of materials and their type. It would be nice to mark the territory on the site so as not to make mistakes in the calculations.

We choose the material for the construction of the frame of the veranda

This chapter discusses the most practical and popular frame materials. Best suited for building a veranda:

• timber;
• brick;
• profile pipe;
• expanded clay concrete blocks.

Before talking about them, it is worth making a small digression. The frame is a very important thing, and how strong the veranda will be will depend on its strength, so you should not choose only from the cost of materials.

When building a veranda in the country with your own hands, all types of materials for the frame can be combined with each other. Brick will be an excellent help for the facade, and bars and a metal profile will help to continue the walls or supports.

bar

The veranda to the house, the projects whose photos are presented in this article are classics. The beam is lumber larger than 100mm. It is made either from solid wood species, or by gluing individual boards together. The first option for creating a bar is much more reliable, although somewhat more expensive.

The shape of the beam is usually square, or rectangular in shape - round ones are already logs. It differs from each other in processed, edged, sides. Bars are produced by:

• two-edged;
• three-edged;
• four-edged.

Separately, it is worth highlighting rounded timber - this type of lumber is made from solid wood, the sides of which lead to a strict correspondence of dimensions relative to the center. Such bars have a special strength and structure: their tension is the same on all sides, which allows the bars to retain their shape when dried up to a deviation of half a millimeter.

The main physical quality of a timber veranda is great elasticity and strength. Unfortunately, the structure of wood can sometimes give Negative consequences- over time, it dries up and expands due to temperature changes. Therefore, when planning the frame, you should take this into account, giving the tree a few millimeters of margin for expansion. In addition, it is possible to distinguish a great resistance to temperature and weather phenomena, which are especially well manifested in dried and treated wood with a protective coating.

The cost of timber for a veranda in a private house depends on its quality and the type of wood used. Each type of wood has its own appearance and properties. Spruce and pine beams are cheaper than their ash, beech or oak counterparts, but have a less intricate pattern.

A little later, in the second chapter of this article, we will look at how to make an open wooden porch with our own hands step by step in 35 steps.

A brick is a product with regular sides, made of mineral substances - clay, sand and other materials. With skillful work, you can create a very strong and beautiful veranda made of brick with their own hands attached to the house. All bricks are now standardized, which allows you to work with them very quickly.

Brickwork has a number of unique properties:

• resistance to all types of weather phenomena;
• fire resistance;
• durability.

In addition, the brick does not require any special treatment - it does not fade over time, which allows you not to think about painting. The main disadvantage is the low resistance of the masonry to various impacts - over time, it can crumble, and cracks can appear in the masonry.

The production of bricks is highly developed - on the market you can find goods of any color and shape. In the construction of brick verandas in a rural, country, or private house, red is most often used, which is made mainly from clay, and silicate, white brick, made from sand and lime.

Brick construction can cost decent money - a couple of dozen stacks can go to a closed veranda, which will cost a large amount, however, this pays for the durability and strength of the masonry.

profile pipe

The metal frame veranda has also become widespread among builders. A profile pipe is called a solid or welded metal product, with any section that differs from the standard, round one. It is made from rolled low-alloy steel (although there are also specimens from stainless steel), with a thickness of 1 mm to 22 mm. The cross section is very different, from 10mm to 500mm.

To the main features profile pipe for the veranda include:

• ease;
• flexibility;
• no need for post-processing.

Such a pipe is ideal for creating frames and racks of the veranda, which are subsequently sheathed with various finishing materials. Working with it is quite simple - the pipes are cut with a grinder or scissors for iron to the desired height, after which they are twisted between each other with screws.

The design of a veranda from a profile pipe is easy to manufacture and does not require large expenditures from you, but it necessarily requires subsequent processing with finishing materials. It is precisely the “framework” that is obtained from it, when almost finished structures come out of other materials.

Expanded clay blocks

Expanded clay concrete is one of the most convenient materials. The block is a kind of “brick” of large size, which is lightweight and heat-capacitive. Installation of a veranda from blocks is a short-lived matter - the blocks are lubricated with a mixture and stacked on top of each other.

The difference between the blocks lies in their recipe - expanded clay concrete with a high content of cement is more durable and stable, but it conducts heat better, and, as a result, cools faster. Clay, on the contrary, gives softness to the material and better insulates the temperature.

The greatest difficulty in their application for such types of verandas is the connection - expanded clay concrete adhesive, which is necessary for masonry, is quite difficult to use. The cost of such material is low - this allows you not to spend too much on the construction of the frame.

Choosing a roofing material

Determining what your veranda will be like for the house (projects, do-it-yourself photos in the country house below), you should turn to the roof, but only after you decide what the frame will be made of. A house with a veranda under one roof will look better, but it is not always possible to plan a veranda at the design stage of a house.

The article will cover:

• corrugated board;
• metal tile;
• soft tiles.

All materials are great for a veranda, however, the best solution is to continue the same type of roof that is already on the roof of the house. Such a decision will make the veranda part of a single whole, which will create a complete building design.

On average, not too much money is spent on the roof of the veranda attached to the house in the country - 7-8 sq.m. corrugated board, for example, will come out in a rather modest amount, which allows you not to think about saving at this stage of work.

Polycarbonate

Polycarbonate sheets are a real "savior" of anyone who is going to attach a veranda to the house with their own hands. Their main advantage is considered to be transparency like glass in the absence of the latter's shortcomings - fragility and heaviness.

Polycarbonate veranda attached to the house - photo in the country

In addition, polycarbonate sheets:

• easily attached to any surface;
• have a large number of colors;
• protected from moisture and temperature changes.

The main vulnerability of polycarbonate is its poor impact resistance - large hail can easily break through the sheet and ruin the roof. This is especially offensive when the sheet is thoroughly screwed - in order to avoid various patches, it is necessary to completely change the site.

Now it is produced in the format of solid, monolithic sheets and honeycomb panels. To work with it, it is enough to build a wooden strapping, on which sheets will be glued or screwed on top with screws with thermal washers. The screwdriver should be operated at low speed - otherwise you risk leaving a crack on the sheet.

Polycarbonate can help to make a beautiful veranda to the house, completely filled with sunlight, from which no lighting is required during the daytime.

Decking

Corrugated board is a sheet of thin-rolled stainless steel with a wavy relief. The material is the fastest and most versatile when installing the roof of the veranda. On sale you can find a fairly wide range of profiled sheets - different in colors, thickness (which varies from 1mm to 4mm), wave size and other factors.

Decking is credited with:

• ease of operation due to the rapid coverage of a large area;
• resistance to weather changes;
• flexibility.

The disadvantages of a thin profiled sheet can be considered softness - it can be easily pushed through, inaccurately leaning on your elbow or stepping on it. Dents are quite difficult to straighten, so it is better to be careful in work.

It is quite simple to fix the corrugated board during the construction of a veranda in a private house - the sheet is laid on transverse flat logs and screwed with screws with drills and a rubberized washer. At the top of the sheet, it is fixed in each gap between the waves, in the middle and end - after 1-2 gaps. The next sheet overlaps the previous one.

It is better to work with a screwdriver in the same way as with polycarbonate - carefully screwing the fastener at low speed, since excessive tension can deform the sheet, and the screw will leave a too wide hole through which water will then flow.

metal tile

She can be given the first place in popularity in the construction of a covered veranda. A metal tile is a thin sheet of steel, stainless steel or aluminum, which is shaped like a regular tile. From above they are covered with a special protective layer, which, in addition to protecting against rust, gives a variety of colors and textures.

The material is well protected against corrosion, has a low weight and is easy to install. A square meter of tiles costs, relative to other materials, average. The price depends on the thickness, composition of the protective coating and the metal used. It is higher for aluminum and stainless steel, however, compared to them, steel provides less durability.

Creation of the roof of the veranda country house from a metal tile is a very pleasant work, but its feature depends on the characteristics of the sheet. For sheets without special fasteners in the form of a “loop-hook” system, it is necessary to firmly twist the sheets together with screws. The first sheet is scrolled into each wave, the middle - with an interval of several waves. Connections between two sheets also scroll into each wave.

With special fasteners, you can do without a large number of screws - the first sheet is most firmly attached with screws, the rest are held on the first and fastened only through the section. The screwdriver should also work as slowly as possible so as not to bend the texture.

If the roof of your house is made of metal tiles, then the roof of the veranda in the country house can be either continued with it or covered with corrugated board. From the same manufacturer, they will most likely have the same shade, which will give integrity between both buildings.

Soft tiles

Do-it-yourself veranda to the house - projects and photos from a bar

This type of tile is made of bitumen and fiberglass. In its appearance, it is more like a flexible sheet plastic material. By using synthetic materials, it can be given any appearance that fits perfectly into the exterior of the veranda.

It is durable and does not require special handling. Flexible roof tiles quite resistant to external aggressive environment, but at high temperatures, bitumen heats up and can deform over time.

At the moment, it is mainly produced in the form of:

• rectangular sheets;
• diamonds;
• hexagons;
• "beaver tails" and other forms.

Working with it is quite simple - the material is placed from the bottom up so that the top sheet overlaps the previous one. The upper edge of the sheet is nailed or screwed with a screw with a hidden cap. To place tiles on the roof of the veranda, a flat surface is required over the entire area, which can be made using a monolithic sheet of various materials.

Using wood-based materials, it is desirable to lay a waterproof lining between the tiles and the wood. These are sold in stores, however, instead of it, a thick plastic film will do. It should not be tightly pulled in advance - when driving, the extra sections will go under the nail, and the film will straighten itself. This approach is very useful when using MDF or fiberboard boards.

We choose the material for the foundation under the veranda to the house

The foundation for the veranda to the house depends on the selected materials for the frame. Different frames require different rigidity from the foundation, which imposes certain restrictions on its construction. Two options for the foundation will be considered below:

• Pillar foundation for the veranda;
• Tape base.

The cost of the base for the veranda depends directly on its size. If you decide to design a house immediately with a veranda, then one foundation would be a good option. This allows better distribution of air movements in the underground. Otherwise, already laid communications may interfere with the correct location of the foundation sections.

Saving on the foundation is not worth it - in the future it can do you a very bad service. Destruction will lead to the mowing of the entire building and its destruction. It is very difficult to fix this - for this you will either have to raise the foundation with a jack, or completely disassemble the veranda and build it on a new one. This will lead to damage to the materials used, and to unnecessary cash costs.

The main essence of the columnar foundation for the veranda is hidden in the name. It is a column of concrete, on which various materials are already located. The design is easy to create and does not require the purchase of special materials - for the usual version, only cement and sand are needed.

Columns can be made:

• from brick;
• by casting from concrete;
• from foam concrete blocks;
• from parts of concrete pillars and so on.

The simplest method is cast concrete bases, on top of which are pillars for a brick veranda. Concrete is used ordinary - a mixture of cement with sand and gravel, in a ratio of 1: 2: 2.5. A hole with a diameter of about 600 mm is dug in the ground, into which a wooden box with sides of 500 mm and a height of 600-700 mm is immersed. For the strength of the base, you can place a metal mesh inside the casting, making it reinforced concrete, or throw any unnecessary garbage made of durable metal there. It is desirable to lay a horizontal mesh every 50-100mm, which will provide the necessary pressure strength, and every 100mm vertically, which will prevent the column from falling apart.

The quality of the brick does not play a special role - you can also use the old brick, which is cleaned of the remnants of the dried mixture, but in this case it is advisable to additionally sheathe it with finishing material. Masonry is done in three rows of bricks, each level changing direction. The columns are placed at a distance of 500-1000mm from each other, be sure to add additional support at each corner.

On such light foundations for a veranda, a strapping of boards is usually created. You can choose almost any beam - for a solid foundation, a beam of 100mm by 60mm is enough. The beams are screwed to the brickwork using metal corners on the dowels on both sides of the board.

The main advantage of a do-it-yourself columnar foundation for a veranda to a house is the speed of construction - most of the time is spent on the solidification of the mixture and, in the case of adding brick supports, the speed of masonry collection. It depends on the skill of the master, but in general, it also passes quickly.

Despite the fact that the masonry itself is strong, the beams will not be able to withstand the mass of closed brick or expanded clay concrete masonry, therefore it is suitable only for light frames made of wood or metal profiles. An increase in strength can be achieved by using iron logs, but they are expensive and very massive.

Strip foundation

This type of foundation for the veranda is a completely poured concrete foundation. It is made by pouring a mixture of cement, sand and fine gravel into pre-prepared trenches with a wooden box, formwork. The working time increases depending on the height of the foundation and the scale of the veranda.

Such a foundation is much stronger than a columnar one, therefore it can be safely placed on it. brickwork and expanded clay concrete blocks - he will be able to withstand their weight and will not sag over time.

Do-it-yourself work with a strip foundation for a veranda begins with digging a trench. Its depth should be approximately 400-500mm. Formwork is being assembled over this trench. In general, the depth of the foundation should correspond to the depth of freezing in your area. After the completion of the collection of the box, the filling of the mixture begins.

The mixture is made in a ratio of 1: 2: 2.5 from cement, sand and concrete, respectively. For greater strength, it is worth laying it with a reinforced mesh both horizontally and vertically, with a step of each mesh of 100-200mm.

It must be borne in mind that the foundation will be the most durable with a one-time pour, since at different solidification times, the concrete forms separate pieces, which in the future can sag, cracking the building. It is advisable to work as fast as possible - a concrete mixer or custom-made concrete will be a good help.

The same problem will be observed when attaching a veranda to an already finished house with foundation. It would be a good idea to place metal rods with a reinforced mesh welded to them in the finished foundation. This will keep you out of trouble in the future.

After solidification, the boxes are removed, and the ground next to the foundation is leveled. For greater beauty of the territory, you can fill the area next to such a foundation with pebbles, or place flower beds on it. In the third chapter of the material, we will take a closer look at how to make the right foundation for a veranda in the form of a tape.

Veranda to the house: projects, photos in the country with their own hands and how to plan the event correctly

Of course, the best option is when a do-it-yourself veranda to the house in the country (projects, photo below) is planned even before the construction of the house, so that they have a common foundation and a more complete overall design. This avoids:

• decay separate parts foundation;
• differences in materials and their shades;
• the presence of unnecessary elements that can interfere with the veranda - windows, doors and other things.

However, sometimes the idea of ​​​​building a veranda to the house appears already in the process of operating a residential building. In this case, you must immediately decide:

• what foundation is required;
• whether the materials of the veranda and the house will match.

The columnar foundation is much more convenient in the extension of the veranda to the house, especially when the height of the house allows it. Additional pillars, in this case, are also placed around the perimeter of the wall of the house so that the floor of the future veranda does not sink from constant or dynamic pressure.

If your plans include creating a covered veranda, or using brick or expanded clay concrete masonry, it is better to use a more durable, strip foundation. Additional strength of the connection can be given either with special adapters that are mounted in the foundation of the house and filled with a mixture, or with improvised materials. As practice shows, you can do without them.

The location of the veranda relative to doors and windows is also important. An open veranda will not interfere with the windows in any way - the level of light passing through the opening will also be sufficient, but on hot days the roof can save you from the scorching sun.

You should not place the veranda next to the windows of private rooms - the people who will be on the veranda can violate the privacy of the owner and make his life much less comfortable.

A closed veranda and windows in a house are incompatible things. Even with large window openings this can interfere with the overall design of the room and render the window useless for the home. However, there are exceptions to any rule.

Incredibly cozy

The location of the door is also quite important. If your house has two doors - the front door, the entrance from the front side, and the spare one, for example, leading from the living room to the garden, it would be more logical to place the veranda near the second one. Of course, if you want to radically change the layout of the house, then you can add an additional exit to the veranda, which will become an additional highlight.

When planning, you should take into account the direction of opening the door - it can become a problem for the future interior and interfere with the arrangement of furniture. Problems with this can be avoided by using sliding front doors, or by making the veranda part of the house, insulating it and refusing front door on the wall of the main building.

The difference in the time of construction of the veranda and the house can also affect the materials. When looking for similar material, you may come across:

• difference in shades that change from batch to batch;
• lack of the necessary line of material in stock;
• the disappearance of the material from the sale due to its removal from production.

Of course, a veranda and a house made of the same materials look much better, but if you could not find a completely matching roof or brick, the ideal solution would be to select contrasts, both in color and in texture. The only thing you should not experiment with is the roof. different roofing(with the exception of polycarbonate) rarely looks good.

Polycarbonate veranda attached to the house - photo-instruction for the project

This master class considers how to make a veranda to the house (project and photo below) of a classic open type. Such a combination of materials allows you to quickly build a summer porch open to the sun with your own hands from wood, where you can take a break on a hot day. The dimensions of the finished building are 3000mm long and 6000mm wide.

The choice of wood and its properties

When choosing wood for a summer veranda, you need to consider that it will be under the constant influence of the environment, which negatively affects the tree.

There are two main types of wood on the market.

1. From coniferous trees - spruce, pine, larch, fir;

The most affordable is pine, which is used both in carpentry and for the construction of buildings. It is cheaper than other types of wood, which saves money during construction.

Another good option for an attached polycarbonate veranda to the house (photo below) is spruce. It withstands loads well and does not bend, and is also not subject to seasonal fluctuations in humidity, which can be important for construction in coastal areas of the seas and in rainy areas. The properties of coniferous wood are presented in the table.

Physical properties of coniferous wood (average value)

wood species	Density, kg/m3
	at 12% humidity	completely dry	conditional	bulk	radial	tangential
spruce	445	420	360	0,43/0,50	0,16/0,17	0,28/0,31
larch	660	630	520	0,52/0,61	0,19/0,20	0,35/0,39
cedar pine	435	410	350	0,37/0,42	0,12/0,12	0,26/0,28
Scotch pine	500	470	400	0,44/0,51	0,17/0,18	0,28/0,31
Caucasian fir	435	410	350	0,46/0,54	0,17/0,18	0,31/0,34
Siberian fir	373	350	300	0,39/0,44	0,11/0,11	0,28/0,31

A cut of coniferous wood in the photographs below.

2. From deciduous trees- linden, birch, aspen, beech, oak.

Larch and cedar are opposite to each other. Larch is very difficult to process - the density of its core is twice as high as that of other trees, which makes the timber hard susceptible to any influences, while cedar, on the contrary, is quite soft to work with. Both are excellent at resisting moisture buildup.

From deciduous, you can take a closer look at the oak - it is incredibly durable and protected from all types of lesions that can overtake a tree. The main disadvantage is its cost. Ash and beech are also good for the veranda, but they are very prone to infestation. The properties of hardwoods are presented in the table.

Physical properties of hardwood (average value)

wood species	Density, kg/m3			Shrinkage (numerator) and swelling (denominator) coefficients, %
	at 12% humidity	completely dry	conditional	bulk	radial	tangential
Linden	495	470	400	0,49/0,58	0,22/0,23	0,30/0,33
Birch tree	630	600	500	0,54/0,64	0,26/0,28	0,31/0,34
beech	670	640	530	0,47/0,55	0,17/0,18	0,32/0,35
English oak	690	650	550	0,43/0,50	0,18/0,19	0,27/0,29
alder	520	490	420	0,43/0,49	0,16/0,17	0,28/0,30
aspen	495	470	400	0,41/0,47	0,14/0,15	0,28/0,30

View the section of the presented deciduous trees in the presented photographs.

The choice of polycarbonate and its characteristics

Choosing polycarbonate for a veranda is not difficult, especially when you know what characteristics are needed from it. Polycarbonate sheet in our time consists of several layers:

• protective layer filtering ultraviolet;
• a coating added to selectively transmit light;
• polycarbonate plate.

Changing these characteristics allows you to achieve any appearance and transmitted light from polycarbonate. The color can be anything - everything is limited only by the imagination of the master, however, in this work, a choice was made in favor of ordinary, transparent polycarbonate.

Sheet sizes also vary - from small panels of 1000x1500mm to huge sheets of 5000x10000mm, however, a polycarbonate sheet is easily cut with a construction knife. The thickness of the sheet affects its strength and wind resistance, but as the thickness increases, so does the price of each sheet.

It is worth remembering that the polycarbonate sheet on the roof of the veranda can crack very quickly under high pressure. This imposes restrictions on the creation of various roofs - large gaps between the rafters can lead to sheet breakage at the first serious snowdrifts.

In this project, we made only one row of beams, which went with a step of 866 mm, since it was made in the territory of the Crimea, where very little snow falls in winter. The main properties of monolithic and honeycomb panels can be found in the table below.

Veranda drawing

The drawing of the veranda helps to avoid various design errors, and you don’t need to be especially skilled in drawing, a regular sketch will do.

The image shows a schematic drawing of a veranda for a house 3 by 6 meters. The total width of the veranda - 6000mm is achieved due to the width of the roof. For the first beam, an indent of 300mm is made from the corners. The height of the vertical beams is 2000mm, they are placed with a gap of 1750mm. Frontal roof beam - 6000mm.

The drawing of the veranda shows the roof. For it, longitudinal logs 3000 mm long are used, which are located at a distance of 866 mm from each other.

This arrangement of the bars allows you to achieve maximum transmission of the sun from roofing- a small number of lags guarantees a greater flow of rays.

To strengthen the structure, it is possible to put bars 816 mm long between each longitudinal log with a step of 1000 mm from the beginning of the roof. This will firmly strengthen the polycarbonate sheets.

By the way, if you want to do it, look in the relevant material on our website.

Based on the measurements, we need:

• 1 beam 6000mm long;
• 7 bars 3000mm long;
• 4 beams 2000mm long.

The total roof area is 18 sq.m.

To strengthen the pillars, special metal legs with pins will be made, which are attached to the lower end of the beam and sunk into the concrete pillar during its pouring. They will need 4 pieces.

Preparatory activities

This veranda to the house (project, photo below) provides for the preparatory activities described in the table.

	1. 7 bars with a section of 50x150mm. All the main elements will be sawn from it, and from the remnants - the corners, which will serve to additionally secure the vertical supports.
	2. 4 metal supports that will be laid with concrete and provide stability to wooden beams
	3. You can make them from the remains of metal corners. They were pre-cut to a length of 100mm and then welded to each other with an exact fit of 50mm.
	4. A metal pin 500-600mm long is welded to them from below. The length is not very critical - the reinforcement will be inserted into future holes and poured with concrete. 4 holes are pre-drilled in each wall, into which self-tapping screws will then be screwed, which fix the pole in the support.
	5. Cellular polycarbonate with a total area of ​​18 sq.m. A sheet was purchased with a size of 2100x9000mm, 8mm thick. The sheet was cut for the future roof into pieces 3000x2100 in size, in total it took 3 such pieces. The remaining 300mm can either be cut by cutting from the last sheet, or left. When cutting, it is better to leave a margin of 10-20mm to avoid shortages - this will insure you in case of an error in the calculations.
	6. You will also need steel billets 450mm long and 10-15mm wide.
	7. They are marked into three parts of 150mm. In the extreme parts, 3-4 holes are drilled, which will serve to screw in the self-tapping screws and then fasten the upper trim of the frame to the rungs of the house.
	8. We get the material ready for installation.
	9. Strips must be painted in any color. The most convenient way to do this is with ordinary enamel for iron. you can also read in a special article on our website (point 5).

A mixture is also required. Suitable cement "200". For 4 concrete columns, you will need about 1 bag of cement, 2 bags of coarse sand and about 2 volumes of gravel, which is necessary for strength.

Of the tools you need:

• manual a circular saw;
• grinder with a grinding wheel, grain size - 150;
• electric planer;
• sandpaper to bring minor polishing flaws;
• a drill with a long drill for preparing holes in the corners and crossbars, as well as a nozzle for mixing the cementing mixture;
• screwdriver;
• rubber mallet;
• corner;
• level.

The designated list of tools will give you the opportunity to work calmly without spending a lot of time preparing the material. By the way, a circular saw can be completely replaced by a conventional hand saw, and an electric planer by a hand planer for wood.

You should definitely not refuse a screwdriver - it will help twist the structure and drill all the holes. Nails don't always perform well, especially when it involves knocking wood and metal together through a hole in the latter.

Column Foundation

The discussed project of the veranda to the house with their own hands as a support involves the use of timber with reinforcing pins screwed to them with a stand for connection (mortgage).

The lower harness is not used, the already laid tiles play the role of the floor. This a good option save on flooring without losing quality.

Step 10. For the future foundation, part of the tiles is disassembled and holes are dug in them.

Depth - about 300-400mm, diameter - about 200mm. Such a veranda is quite light, therefore it is not necessary to assemble a box for a column and fill it with a reinforced mesh. If you plan to install the lower trim using more materials, it is imperative to strengthen the posts. Let's move on to the next step - assembling the frame - which will bring us closer to answering the question of how to make a veranda for the house!

Frame collection

The frame of the veranda will be assembled from timber. To do this, you must first saw it into blanks and bring it into a pleasant appearance by grinding. You should start by sawing 6000mm timber.

First, it is worth marking the desired dimensions with a tape measure. On four bars we mark out segments of 3000mm, on two more - 2000mm each, after which we begin to saw. It is advisable to do this before sanding, because when sawing an already sanded tree, burrs and ugly edges can remain.

To create this veranda, it is very important to monitor the angle of the supports - they must go exactly at 90 degrees, otherwise, the 6000 mm support log will lie unevenly and there will be gaps visible to the naked eye.

	11. We begin to process wood. Each board must be leveled electric planer. First, a layer is removed from one side.
	12. Next, remove from the other side. The difficulty in working can be with a wider side - without skill it is quite difficult to remove the same size on each side, and it is even harder to do this with a conventional, mechanical planer. The main thing is not to overdo it and not take off too much - the veranda board will be too free in the prepared corner.
	13. After trimming, we grind the surface with a grinder and a grinding wheel.
	14. We do the procedure with each board. After that, it is advisable to clean them in a dry, moisture-protected room so that the boards do not absorb water before being coated with a protective compound.

The remaining pieces of timber will go to the manufacture of corners. Good foothold:

• has an angle of 45 degrees;
• designed for the desired weight.

To do this, you don't need to have great experience- just measure the same distance on each side of the board on which it will be attached. Because when connected this design takes the form of a triangle, then the marked point will be its corners.

After that, you need to use the formula: a 3 \u003d b 2

Where a is the measured distance on the board, and b is the desired length of the outer side of the support. The distance on the board is cubed and the resulting number is placed in the root and extracted. You can also do this on a calculator - the resulting number will be accurate and will not let you down.

	15. To make an even 45 degree corner, simply gently fold one of the corners of the A4 paper sheet to the opposite side. The resulting angle will be 45 degrees.
	16. It is already possible to draw corners on it from the outside and saw it. After all the manipulations, we will get corners for the veranda almost ready for installation.
	17. We also grind them, and then we make holes perpendicular to the beveled plane with a long drill.
	18. It is better to make several holes in a checkerboard pattern - so the boards can be evenly pressed down over the entire area. With such holes, the frame will come out more even, and the screws will definitely not go beyond the board. It is important that the holes are somewhat smaller than the selected screws - otherwise we simply will not scroll the tree and the self-tapping screw will lie freely in the boards, without affecting the strength of the structure.
	19. After that, metal “legs” must be screwed to the future pillars for the veranda frame. First, they need to be placed at the ends of the beams. If they fit evenly, then this will have to be done with a hammer or mallet.
	20. After the support is level on the beam, it must be screwed on. 35mm screws were used, but you can take any that are at hand. It is necessary to twist first from one end, and then from the other.
	21. This is how we ensure the uniform location of the part. The self-tapping screws screwed in the middle are supporting ones, therefore they should be screwed in when the part is already in place. As a result, we get a similar design.
	22. We place the structure on the ground. The leftovers that are left after cutting can be used for support and more convenient twisting in the future.
	23. In our case, 200mm self-tapping screws are needed, which will be screwed on top of the veranda bearing log, as well as 152mm self-tapping screws, which will fasten corner supports with boards.
	24. We twist everything, measuring the surfaces with a metal corner or a ruler - this way the frame will come out much smoother.
	25. It is better to drown the screw heads inside, or make them flush with the board - otherwise they will stick out, and when painting, excess varnish will collect and give smudges.
	26. After we have built a frame for the veranda with our own hands, it must be raised. One cannot cope here, so it is better to call a neighbor or friends. The raised frame must be strengthened with one longitudinal lag.
	27. In this case, it is temporarily fixed with a clamp, which pulls the two together. From the side of the house, the beam is fixed with a metal blank.
	28. To align, you can put the same metal corners under each rack.
	29. When the structure is leveled, it is necessary to start pouring the cementing mixture into the prepared holes. The mixture is made from cement, sand and gravel in a ratio of 1:2.5:2. Water should be added slowly until the future concrete reaches the desired viscosity. Do not make it too liquid or thick - it should flow off the spatula, because this way it will dry faster.
	30. When the mixture hardens, the frame will look like this. After that, it can be painted. For this veranda, a tinted antiseptic in the color “Walnut” was used with an additional coating of yacht varnish. Here you can use any kind of paints and antiseptics - everything is absolutely at your discretion.

Top harness

	30. Work for the upper strapping of the veranda begins with painting the longitudinal logs.
	31. Acrylic varnish was used for coating. It impregnates the wood from moisture and prevents the process of decay from developing, as it kills any bacterial infections.
	32. After painting is completed, it is necessary to begin to fix the logs of the veranda between the house and the frame. It is better to attach it first to the house, and it is very convenient to do this with the help of prepared and painted plates. They are screwed on from both sides. The free edge can simply lie on the frame - the concrete should already hold it quite firmly. The lag that we used to align the frame is best twisted last, since it still holds the structure. We fasten the end of the frame with 200mm self-tapping screws.
	33. It is necessary to screw the screws into the frame quite accurately - otherwise there is a risk of the screw passing to the side, through the tree, which will spoil the appearance of the structure. After fixing all the lags, the structure will hold firmly and will not be dependent on the wind.

Roofing roof

Step 34 We cover the roof with the help of already prepared polycarbonate sheets. They are fastened to the upper plane of the longitudinal ones with the help of self-tapping screws and special thermal washers. By the way, you can do without them - the veranda is open, and this will not particularly affect its insulation. The film from the surfaces must be removed in advance.

The polycarbonate sheet has two sides - back and front. On the front side there is a film with marks that the panel does not transmit ultraviolet rays.

You need to twist as slowly as possible, otherwise, there is a risk of cracking the polycarbonate.

Step 35. You may encounter a problem when the connection of two polycarbonate sheets goes beyond the log. In this case, a special jumper is used, which is both put on the sheet in advance and can be placed in it after. For this you need only a mallet. The jumper is driven in between the sheets and does not require special fastening.

Floor installation

On such a veranda, additional installation of the floor is not needed, but if it is required in the future, then you can simply create a bottom trim on small pillars along the edges and fix it with screws with existing lags. After that, the strapping can be covered with any finishing material - a terrace board, MDF board or linoleum.

After the completion of the work, it turns out such a beautiful open veranda made by hand.

The polycarbonate used gives excellent transmission to the sun's rays, protecting the place from ultraviolet radiation. However, if there is too much light for you, then you can sew, which will be lined under the ceiling - so they will cover the excess sun.

Decorating the racks with curtains or even large blinds would be a good idea. Also, you can hang multi-colored garlands that will bring some aesthetics of the new year even on the hottest evening, making the space more comfortable.

If you wash the floor well, it will be quite possible to walk on it barefoot, taking off your shoes on the threshold. It will be possible to place carpets and other utensils on the veranda, and a rocking chair or a hammock will be a great addition to the recreation area.

Video of the construction of a veranda from a bar

More details on how to build a veranda to the house with your own hands can be obtained from the video, which shows in detail all the processes described in the article. Special thanks to its creators for a clear and detailed explanation of all points!

And now let's look at how to build a closed veranda with your own hands to country house.

Do-it-yourself closed veranda made of expanded clay blocks

A do-it-yourself veranda to the house in the country (the project and photos are described below) made of blocks is great for creating a warm room. It is quite durable and in the future can serve as a good basis for building a balcony.

Characteristics of building blocks

The veranda will be made using expanded clay blocks. The house itself is built from them, so they will harmonize perfectly. See the table of types and characteristics of such blocks below.

block type		Dimensions, mm	Density, kg/m3	Voidness, %	Strength grade	Frost resistance	Thermal conductivity	Weight, kg
four-slot		390x190x188	800-1000	40	m35-m50	f50	0,19-0,27	11-14
	390x190x188	800-1000	40	m35-m50	f50	0,19-0,27	11-14
	390x190x188	800-1000	40	m35-m50	f50	0,19-0,27	11-14
	390x230x188	800-1000	40	m35-m50	f50	0,19-0,27	13-16
	390x190x188	1000	20	m50	f50	0,27	14
	390x190x188	1200		m75	f50	0,36	17
	390x90x188	900	25	m35	not standardized	0,3	6
	390x90x188	1200		m50	not standardized	0,36	8

The blocks, despite their impressive size, are very light and at the same time heat-resistant, therefore the closed version of the veranda can be easily insulated in the future without erecting thick layers of insulation or sandwich panels.

The size of the blocks used is 390x190x188mm, it is quite common and available in any store. If necessary, expanded clay is easily cut into pieces using a grinder and a stone disc.

Drawing and project

In order not to be mistaken during construction, it is better to think over in advance the project of a veranda for building with your own hands in the country. We work with expanded clay blocks, so a more solid strip foundation is required.

You need to start the development of the project with the calculation of the territory. In this case, a veranda is made to country house at the main entrance, so you need to calculate the territory next to it.

2500mm retreats from the house, 3500mm is taken in width. Foundation height 500mm. Wall height - 2300mm, with the highest point of the roof - 3060mm. In addition, two doorways will be located, for which a width of 750mm is taken, as well as a window combined with the front door.

The roof will be sloped, one part is attached to the house, the other - to the erected walls. The floor is poured with concrete and in the future, it can be covered with any finishing material.

In total, the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room will be approximately 4.5 square meters, the construction volume is about 10 cubic meters, excluding the roof drop. You can get acquainted with the drawing of the veranda below.

Veranda to the house - a project and a photo of a real building

Tools and materials

To build a veranda in the country with our own hands, we need:

• Expanded clay concrete blocks;
• Cement;
• Sand;
• Gravel;
• Wooden bars and boards;
• Metal profile for roofing.

The amount of expanded clay concrete is calculated depending on the height and width of the wall. It took us about 150 expanded clay blocks, taking into account the cut.

Cement is taken with the calculation of 1 bag per 2 sq.m., 2.5 parts of sand and 2 parts of gravel are added to it. To save on cement, old concrete blocks will be laid inside, which will allow filling the entire volume faster.

Sand is not necessary to buy - if you have old, unsifted sand, you can clean it with a similar sieve.

Any metal grid with small cells, nailed to a box of boards, will help out perfectly and make the old sand “newer”.

For formwork, you can use any more or less even boards that are suitable for creating a flat surface. You will need one board, 50x150mm and a length of 2500mm, and one beam, 150x150mm. The lags will be 50x150mm in size and approximately 2200mm long.

The metal profile is taken taking into account the surface - in here it is equal to 14 sq.m.

Of the tools we need:

• Concrete mixer;
• Perforator;
• Accurate level;
• Putty knife;
• A circular saw;
• Bulgarian woman with a stone saw.

By the way, a circular saw can be replaced with a grinder with circles on a tree, but a circular saw will give a much more even and neat cut.

Strip foundation

	1. To start construction, you need to dig a ditch. We will dig to the level of freezing - 500mm. Taking into account that we will make the height of the foundation 500mm, then these dimensions will be enough for strength.
	2. To speed up the pouring and spend less cement and sand on work, we will place old concrete pillars inside that are not used anywhere.
	3. After that, you can start building formwork. It should be about 500mm above the ditch. Any boards can be used, however, the gaps between them should not allow concrete to pass through, and the surface adjacent to the concrete should be flat.
	4. So that the formwork of the future veranda does not disperse, we twist the boards together into small pegs, and put the resulting shields on supports. They can rest on any solid surface, or be driven into the ground and screwed to the formwork. To get a foundation that is even in width, add spacers from small pegs.
	5. As the concrete is poured, the spacers will be removed. After finishing, we check everything for evenness with the help of a level. It will turn out such a “trench” into which concrete will be poured. To fix the width of the formwork, the walls can be twisted from above with small boards. This will not allow her to disperse or collapse.
	6. After that, we begin to pour concrete for the base of the veranda. We remove the pegs as the concrete is poured, since they are not needed as part of the future foundation. After full filling, we level the surface - this is necessary for the even laying of expanded clay concrete blocks. In case of rain, it is advisable to cover the damp concrete, otherwise it may absorb excess liquid. After the concrete has hardened, the formwork must be removed.

Monolithic slab as a floor

During the construction of the veranda, the option of a completely concrete floor of a monolithic pour was chosen, which allows you to put any coating on top.

	7. First, you should raise the floor. For this, either old concrete floors are suitable, or ordinary earth, which should be packed very tightly. With a house foundation height of 700mm, it is necessary to raise the floor by about 400-450mm from the ground. After that, the surface is laid out with cellophane to isolate from moisture.
	8. For strength, any reinforced mesh. To save money, you can use old crates from beds or mattress springs - they are no worse. Especially firmly it is necessary to strengthen the most used places - the entrances.
	9. After that, the mixture is started and the floor is filled with it by about 5-7 mm.
	10. After finishing the mixture, let it dry for one day. You can level with a wide spatula or any even and smooth board.
	11. For convenience, a step will be filled. For it, we separately assemble a reinforced frame.
	13. Pour over liquid concrete. This step will last for decades! After it dries, we advise you to pave.

Laying of expanded clay concrete blocks

After the floor is ready, you can start laying the walls of the veranda. In this case, the opposite was done, however, it makes no difference, but with the field already made, it will be more convenient to work.

	14. Before starting work, it is necessary to put waterproofing. For this, a special mastic made of bitumen and rubber was used.
	15. A layer of roofing felt is laid on top, which will not let in any moisture rising from the ground. If you do not have mastic, you can use ordinary tar or bitumen - they are no worse in effect. They should be laid in an even layer, since the extra pieces do not allow you to create an even masonry.
	16. Before fixing the blocks with a mixture, they should be placed on the foundation and tried on. You can stretch the thread along the edges of the corner blocks - it will show the border of the masonry.
	17. After trying on and leveling, you can start laying the blocks. The masonry must be checked by the level that is placed between adjacent blocks. The mixture for expanded clay concrete blocks is kneaded, if possible, in a concrete mixer - it requires quite a lot of volume, and it is undesirable to be distracted once again by tedious work. If necessary, the amount of mixture under the block is added, or the excess is removed.
	18. After readiness, the masonry must be allowed to dry. The top layers and mixture absorb moisture well, therefore, to speed up the process and protect from the weather, you need to cover them with cellophane.

veranda roof truss system

	19. To install the rafters, you will need one rectangular beam and one square. First, a beam is attached from the side of the house.
	20. Using a perforator, holes are made in the beam and wall. When working with a beam, you need to use the drilling mode, and with the wall of the house - the combined mode. After drilling, it is necessary to hammer in the dowels. It is enough to use dowels for 200-300mm, which are strengthened with a hammer.
	21. After that, the beam of the veranda is strengthened with additional corners.
	22. The next step is to lay the timber on the pillars of the wall. The beam together with the wall is drilled 300-400mm.
	23. A metal pin is driven in. It can be bought at a store, or made from improvised materials, for example, a piece of an old lever from a car.
	24. Next, the rafters are laid out, on which the roof will hold. They must be laid out with an interval of 150-250 mm, otherwise the roof may be squeezed under the weight of snow.
	25. The rafters are fixed with self-tapping screws or nails.

Rafters can be treated with impregnation and antiseptic - so they will last much longer and will not require replacement.

Roof decking and painting

	26. For the roof of our small veranda, a metal profile is used - for starters, it is lined over the entire roof so that it is convenient to measure and, if necessary, cut.
	27. You also need to make sure that there is a margin around the edges that prevents water from getting on the rafters. The next sheet is screwed on top of the previous one, forming an overlap that will protect the veranda from rain and wind.
	28. To refresh the appearance of the sheets, the roof can be additionally painted with enamel or nitro paint.
	29. When choosing a color, you need to consider the primary paint on the roof - white colors will require several layers to completely lay down on darker ones. After that, the very frame of our cozy veranda will be ready for sheathing, inserting windows and, if necessary, insulation.

Video of the construction of a covered veranda

More details, as well as a description of the process, can be seen in these videos. Special thanks to the creator of the presented videos for the relevant and useful information!

The first part is the foundation:

The second part - walls and floor:

The third part is the roof:

How to avoid defects in construction

Construction is invariably associated with errors, they must be eliminated or minimized in every possible way.

Approximately half of all defects are associated with uneven areas. Masonry, which was not checked for level and came out skewed, is short-lived and will quickly crack, and uneven beams will transfer curvature to the roof.

To avoid this, it is imperative to use a level and a square. The first will create a flat surface relative to the ground, and the second will make even 90-degree angles.

Do not be afraid of preliminary calculations - accuracy will help you save material and get rid of defects in buildings. When working with masonry and wood, one should not forget the usual laws of mathematics - the dependence of the sides on the angles of a triangle and the calculation of the area and volume of geometric shapes. Even despite the famous phrase of Albert Einstein.

The tool also plays a role, but the dependence here can be traced not on its cost, but on the quality and skills of the master. A good metal planer will do much more than a cheap electric planer, and it's not a fact that an expensive one will be much better.

How to insulate a veranda

You can only insulate a closed veranda - for an open one it does not make sense. The degree of insulation required varies by region. For example, for the Crimea and the Krasnodar Territory, where the temperature rarely drops below zero, ordinary compacted polypropylene is sufficient, placed under the walls, ceiling and floor.

Colder regions require warmer solutions - foam sheets, polystyrene foam, felt and other materials. When insulating, it is not so much the thickness that is important - how much the absence of “bare” areas and holes in the walls. All surfaces must be insulated, from ceiling to floor.

Also, with a strip foundation, you need to take care of the absence of holes in it - the cement itself creates a good air cushion, which must be protected from the cold.

There are a huge number of materials for laying the floor - linoleum, terrace board, tiles, rubber coating and others. It all depends more on your preferences and design decisions, however, there are some features of the materials.

Tiles are always much colder than linoleum or decking, but they are extremely resistant to all kinds of wear and tear. Linoleum is sometimes easily torn, but much warmer. Everything is dictated by the characteristics of your home and region, as well as by the open or closed veranda.

Also, do not forget about the possibility of painting floor covering. The paint can look very beautiful - for example, rubber paint for concrete surfaces creates a resistant and durable coating. Boards can be painted at all every year, updating their appearance and keeping them from wear and tear.

How to insert a window into the veranda?

Veranda glazing depends on your requirements. To equip you need only a window opening. If desired, you can also glaze an ordinary veranda - high sliding windows with doors will be great design decision for any home.

The cost of the issue depends on the glasses themselves. A cheap option is ordinary glass without the possibility of opening, but this is absolutely impractical. The complexity of the work is dictated by the features of the veranda - it is much more difficult to insert windows if they were not planned.