How to make a washing nozzle for a vacuum cleaner. How to Vacuum a Carpet to Remove All Dust and Dirt

This article is about how I assemble my robot vacuum cleaner. There are a lot of photos and videos here for those who are also on fire with such an idea.

December 19, 2014. I started to be interested in robotic vacuum cleaners five years ago in 2009, probably after I got acquainted with the Roboforum. All these years there have been attempts to start something, but nothing has been done. A couple of months ago, I actively read articles about a robot vacuum cleaner and finally decided that I would buy a Karcher RC 4.000. Time passed, my wife often began to clean up in the kitchen and in the corridor, it began to annoy me, the thought of a robot grew stronger. I spent a couple of evenings again in pictures and forums about robot vacuum cleaners. I finally decided that I would make a robot myself!

The goal is to create a robot vacuum cleaner that is no worse than an industrially manufactured one and get rid of a layer of dust and small debris in the house. In the process of studying the structure of robots, it turned out that they are very noisy, about 60 dB, while a stationary home washing vacuum cleaner makes about 80 dB. My self-made robot should work as quietly as possible, its dimensions should not exceed the dimensions of factory robots, and it should clean quickly and efficiently.

The first step was to resolve the issue with the suction turbine. I already had experience in building turbines, but they all worked poorly. For the garage I made homemade vacuum cleaner from a turbine from an old Raketa vacuum cleaner. The robot needs a small turbine, so I started looking again. Quite by accident I found messages from the user Vovan on the Roboforum, he shared a drawing of his turbine. Without hesitation, I redrawn the drawing and glued my turbine.

I cut out the turbine and glued it from thick cardboard with super glue in 20 minutes. The first tests were successful!

December 20, 2014. I bought body peeling today :) in general, I only need a transparent jar with a screw cap, I gave the contents to my wife. I also bought a brush for clothes with a hard bristle, disassembled it, tomorrow I will make a brush out of it for my robot.

In AutoCAD, I made sketches of the location of elements in the body. I settled on the dimensions of the basin with a diameter of 25 cm and a height of about 9 cm. It is not yet clear whether all the elements will fit in, there is really little space, but I don’t want to make the case anymore. I set my own frame :)

Yesterday on the Internet I wrote out the dimensions of factory robotic vacuum cleaners:
diameter * height (cm)
36 * 9
32 * 8
32 * 10
30 * 5
22 * 8

I thought about making my vacuum cleaner with cyclone filter, so you can’t make the height small, it is determined by the garbage can, but you can win in diameter. Of course, thanks to Dyson for the cyclone, I have been reviewing his inventions for a long time and even made a garage vacuum cleaner on the principle of a cyclone. My filter will be simple, without any cones and crazy suction power, for the first time it will do.

December 21, 2014. I sawed off a 15 cm round handle from a floor brush in the garage and made a round brush out of it. The diameter turned out to be about 70 mm. The size is unrealistically large and the bristles are very stiff, I don’t know how it will behave, but I’ll probably have to either redo or make the vacuum cleaner heavier, because the bristles will throw it up. The bristles were simply inserted into the holes without glue, it turned out reliably. I fixed the entire structure on a stud with a diameter of 6 mm and two bearings along the edges.

I found two wheels in the garage, you won’t believe it, from a vacuum cleaner! the same manual vacuum cleaner in which there was nothing electrical, only 4 wheels and two brushes driven by these wheels. The wheels have been waiting in the wings for about 15 years :)

Now in AutoCAD I will make another drawing for several parts, tomorrow I will cut everything out of plywood and try to assemble something already on the basis.

December 22, 2014. I really want to make a robot vacuum cleaner with my own hands and finish it before the new year 2015. Last night I watched several videos about robot vacuum cleaners again on YouTube, and in particular two videos about Dyson 360 Eye and Fluffy:

After the first video with the Dyson robot, I realized that when making my robot with a diameter of 25 cm and a brush 15 cm long, I would leave dirty places along the plinth to a width of 5 cm. I don’t know what I will do next, the tests will show.

So, today I bought a new dustpan and two brushes with softer bristles. I bought the scoop because of the rubber band that is glued around the edge, it is perfect for my design.

The geometry of the case was slightly changed based on new thoughts and a new brush. The size of the robot is still 25 cm, but now it is half a circle and half a square. The width of the brush is 21 cm, the diameter is about 6 cm. I sawed out the base from 8 mm plywood, attached wheels and a brush, tomorrow I will make a gearbox and try to sweep something :)

December 23, 2014. I screwed a gear to the brush and attached a gearbox nearby, used an elastic band for money as a belt, screwed the motor with a screw for the test. Below is a video test at 6 and 9 volts.

Most likely I will redo the brush again, the pile is too short and too hard. The pile must be without gaps, because there are streaks of dirt. In general, it turned out spectacular :)

Figured out if I have enough space for three motors in the case. Two motors will turn two wheels and one brush. Plus, gearboxes take up a lot of space. The idea came to replace the gear reducers with a worm gear, maybe I'll do a couple of tests.

The suction turbine was coated twice with a layer of epoxy resin, it became like plastic. The cardboard no longer bends and if water gets in, everything will be fine. I didn't have to center it, it spins perfectly. In the meantime, I am preparing the basis for the garbage can. Made a filter fine cleaning from the neck and cap of a kefir bottle. As a filter cloth, I took a disposable bag from a vacuum cleaner. While everything is glued, in a couple of days I will screw it onto the base and test everything again.

While working on the robot, the idea to get a 3D printer constantly comes to mind. With a 3D printer, it would be much easier to create such details as I need and with high accuracy. When you drill plywood with a drill, the drill can lead away or the slope is not exactly 90 degrees, here one can only dream of high accuracy. In addition, plywood parts are very bulky, everything would be neat on a 3D printer.

December 24, 2014. In the morning I tested the turbine and the garbage can, in the afternoon I repeated the experiment with more high voltage. The results are not impressive. The fine filter had to be unscrewed for the time being, because the power drops sharply through it. In the bank, the garbage is spinning very effectively, but in reality there is not enough suction power.

High voltage turbine test.

At these moments, there was a desire to score everything, why did I take it at all. Now it's very easy to drop everything and forget - that's the easiest way.

In the evening, I took a brushless motor and began to glue a new turbine for it according to the same drawings.

December 25, 2014. I glued the second turbine for a brushless motor, I wanted to test it, it turned out that the motor rotates in the wrong direction. Tomorrow I'll go to the garage to solder the wires, but for now I put everything aside.

December 26, 2014. Soldered the wires between the controller and the motor, got the rotation in the right direction. The turbine started to work, but a couple of tests on the knee turned out to be sad again. Maybe even redesign the turbine, adding a little taper, but more on that later.

The last two days I spent very little time on development, I will try to allocate 4-5 hours tomorrow.

December 27, 2014. I decided to try to assemble a worm gear for the undercarriage of a robot vacuum cleaner. In the pictures earlier, I showed that you can make a worm from a nail and a piece of copper wire. The problem turned out to be in the process of soldering the wire to the nail. My soldering iron is not very powerful, so I additionally warmed up the nail for gas burner. However, it was not possible to solder the wire with high quality, so I took a round piece of wood and wound the wire around it, spilled the turns with super-glue. The worm turned out quite tolerable. Ignoring the ovality of the wooden base and, in general, the entire block of plywood, the mechanism worked normally, but the pancake was very slow.

It would be nice to get ready-made plastic worm gears, but for now we will put this aside.

Regarding the future energy consumption of my robot. Now there is a snag with the turbine, something she does not want to suck as it should, even with the fine filter removed. If you use a conventional collector motor for the turbine and feed it with a voltage of 12 volts, then it will consume about 0.6 amperes. If you use a brushless motor, it will consume about one ampere. Plus, two collector motors will be used to move the robot and another one for the brush, each will consume about 0.3 amperes. Electronics will also consume something. In total, the robot will "eat" from about 1.6 to 2 amperes, in peaks probably up to 2.5 amperes. I don’t know if this is a lot or not, it seems like industrial robots consume three or more amperes.

Again I reviewed a bunch of videos and photos on the request "the principle of operation of a robot vacuum cleaner." I found a cool photo of a turbine from an ordinary household vacuum cleaner. I read on some forum that the longer the blades of the turbine, the greater the vacuum it can create due to centrifugal force.

December 28, 2014. Today I glued two more turbines, they differ only in thickness. Blades made as long as possible. In the photo below, the first thin (5mm blade height) turbine, it is very quiet in operation, but it doesn’t suck :)

The second turbine is thicker (15mm blade height).

Once again in the garage I tried to drag the brush across the floor, the motor often shuts up from the load, the bristles still turned out to be very stiff, and it would not hurt to reduce the diameter of the brush. Tomorrow, in any weather, I’m going to buy a brush with the softest bristles, I’ll also go to the toy store and look for cars with a worm gear for the robot’s chassis.

In the garage I tested a new turbine with a voltage of 12 volts, I thought that 9 blades might not be enough. At home, I glued the third turbine in a day with long blades and a quantity of 15 pieces, I am attaching a photo:

Another day has ended. Before the new year, I won’t have time to make a vacuum cleaner as planned, but I want to believe that everything will be fine :)

December 29, 2014 Went to the toy store today looking for a worm gear. On the way, I remembered my daughter's toy - a horse. My daughter didn’t really like this horse, and in general, I don’t really like it either :) But on the other hand, he has two whole worms and 4 + 4 gears inside.

I still looked into the toy store, then into the second one and bought a shifting machine there. I bought the car not so much for the mechanism as for its wheels, they climb any surface. There was no worm gear inside the machine. The wheels are quite possible I use for homemade robot in the meantime, I gave the machine to my daughter - she is delighted :)

In the afternoon, the idea came to mind to make a robot-electric broom, i.e. the design is the same as now, only there is no turbine, the garbage is simply collected in the compartment. When I was looking for a new brush with a softer bristle in the store (I never bought it), I accidentally saw this:

I immediately bought this cover. This is a ready-made body of the robot, modern transparent and even without unnecessary elements. But in fact it is a "Cover for microwave oven"(diameter 24.5 cm), I don’t know what to cover and why, but the robot should turn out beautiful :) But more on that in another article.

In the evening I broke the conic, took out the gears and screwed it to my robot, it turned out great! The mechanism takes up minimal space and is strong enough to move the platform. While collected not everything, so the pictures will be later. In the meantime, I'm nurturing the idea of ​​​​how to make a new brush, reduce its diameter to 3-4 cm and replace the gearbox with gears with a worm gear.

By the way, note that the worm can be removed from other toys. So we had a broken elephant lying around, but in principle it doesn’t matter, the main thing is the mechanism, which is the same in many toys (cars, tanks and others), see the pictures:

Oh yes, I forgot to write about the new turbine, it turned out to be noticeably more productive than all the others. For better air flow, I also added a cone to the middle of the turbine.

January 05, 2015. Despite new year holidays all the previous days I tried to somehow move forward in the work. I re-read a lot of information about 3D printers, if there was such a printer in my arsenal, I would have printed most of the details long ago. While in my head I am making plans for the future how to assemble a 3D printer with my own hands.

Today I made a new brush. I took a wooden stick with a diameter of 10 mm and drilled holes in a spiral. I inserted bristles into the holes and soldered them on the reverse side with a wood burner.

I assembled the chassis, until I tested it, the glue dries. I also put a new brush in place, it turned out a lot of jambs, without them there is no way, after all, this is my first robot. By the way, I abandoned the rectangular back and made a base for a round case. My decision is connected with the rethinking of the movement of the robot, if we imagine that the robot is moving along the wall and rests against something, then in order to turn it will have to do a maneuver with a backward movement, because the square ass will skid onto the wall.

I spent a lot of time looking for a solution for the "vision" of the robot. The mechanical bumper does not suit me very much, it spoils the external one, although it is the simplest obstacle detection scheme. I settled on an infrared sensor. It is not yet possible to assemble the sensor due to the lack of infrared phototransistors.

January 07, 2015. Yesterday, until 1 am, I assembled a robot to at least somehow test it, play around :) As the "brain" I use the Arduino Pro Mini board + motor shield on L293E chips with strapping (I used this board in my first motor control project online over the Internet). Controlled by the TV remote control. Short video:

The design looks liquid, in fact it is, almost all mechanisms barely breathe. Today I realized how much a seemingly simple robot is so difficult to make. At the moment, I have problems in almost all nodes, a global rework of almost everything is required.

The wheel drive on the worm gear turned out to be what we need in terms of speed, but its execution leaves much to be desired. Part of the drive is placed in a compartment where there will be air movement with debris, this will not work for a long time. On the wheels, I wanted to drill holes that would serve as an additional motion sensor. On one side of the wheel there will be an IR LED, on the other side an IR phototransistor. This circuit will pulsate when the robot moves, if there are no pulses, then the robot has rested against something and is not moving.

For proximity sensors, I bought IR LEDs and IR phototransistors, but after testing such an IR bumper, it became clear that the idea was bad. The sensor reacts to sunlight, but does not see black objects at all. The design has the right to life, but in more simple homemade. Who is interested in the scheme I share:

If you bring your hand close to the sensor, then the LED on the breadboard lights up.

I also tried the ultrasonic sensor. It perfectly measures the distance, but only by the "head-on" method, if the plane of the object is at an angle, then the readings are distorted. In general, even with such a sensor, the bumper of the robot will not work normally.

To control from the remote control, I used the TSOP IR receiver, I don’t know what marking, in principle, you can use any one that comes across. You can control it from any remote control, even with mobile phone, but before that you need to know the codes of the buttons to be pressed on the remote control. In the sketch simple circuit, which sends the button code to the port monitor when pressed on the remote. Connection example and sketch below:

As for the sweeping brush, it turned out great, almost 21 cm wide, with a body of 25 cm. There are nuances: the villi do not recover if they are crushed. The drive mechanism is not closed by anything, winds the hair in 3 minutes of operation and stops. The brush is not removable. The motor is very weak, but the number of revolutions is very suitable, it sweeps very effectively on the table.

Now this robot vacuum cleaner will be disassembled and rethought. Most likely, the diameter of the case will increase by 3 cm. Initially, I thought of making the wheels on independent suspension to hide if suddenly someone steps on the robot. All the same, I will do the wheel drive on gears, instead of a worm. The pile for the brush needs to be looked for another, more elastic and to keep its shape. The bumper will probably have to be done mechanically. Lots of questions about the suction turbine.

Despite all the shortcomings, the wife liked the robot, and the daughter is generally delighted :)

To be continued. So often I will no longer write about the robot, but I will try to publish photo and video reports at least once a month.

March 2015. I bought an electric broom.

The robot vacuum cleaner is still in the project!

Most likely your vacuum cleaner has already been sold with one or more additional attachments. It is possible that there was an instruction with detailed description, but the problem is that the vast majority of buyers do not read the instructions.
FOR HIGH OBJECTS AND CEILINGS

This is an extension tube for the hose, and its purpose is quite clear. It can be used in conjunction with an additional nozzle that is attached to the end of the pipe. Needed in order to get to hard-to-reach high places. For example, before ceiling plinths, the top surface of the refrigerator or kitchen cabinets, and with the help of an additional pipe it is convenient to remove dust behind furniture. You can choose a longer and shorter pipe depending on the height of your ceilings.
FOR UPHOLSTERED FURNITURE, MATTRESSES AND CUSHIONS

So that dust does not spoil furniture, does not make it dull and gray, do not forget about the nozzle for cleaning upholstered furniture. Do not look at the fact that she is so small and inconspicuous. It is great for extracting dust from sofa cushions, Roman blinds and even mattresses.
FOR FLAT FLOORS


This flat, wide brush is best for flat floors. Its short bristles perfectly capture dirt, crumbs and hair, which are then sucked into the vacuum cleaner. As a rule, such brushes are equipped with wheels or a rotating head, which make it maneuverable and easy to use.
FOR LAMPSHADES, BOOKS AND HOUSEHOLD APPLIANCES

The brush head is usually round or triangular in shape with long, soft bristles that do not scratch surfaces. She can remove dust from furniture, clean lampshades, blinds, cornices, household appliances and books.
FOR SLOT AND CORNER


This is one of the most familiar - a narrow crevice nozzle for hard-to-reach places that with a conventional brush can not get close. It is convenient to vacuum along the baseboard and between the ventilation holes, as well as in other narrow corners. For example, the crevice tool is useful for sofas and armchairs to remove dust between cushions.
FOR WOOL REMOVAL


Pet owners will appreciate this nozzle. A brush with rubber bristles, creating a static charge, lifts the hairs of the wool and thereby facilitates their suction. Therefore, cleaning is faster and better.
FOR CARPETS AND RUGS

The Turbo Brush is ideal when you need a boost in power. With this nozzle, you can thoroughly comb the carpet and effectively remove dirt from the pile.

The material of the previous article talks about the consequences that may arise as a result of cleaning construction dust and debris with an ordinary household vacuum cleaner, even from such a brand as Samsung.

Here we should focus on the fact that a rotor rotates inside a housing with a stator winding, mounted on a shaft axis with two bearings.

On it are located:

• core of the magnetic circuit;
• winding connected to a collector assembly with plates.

An electrical contact for the passage of current through the armature winding is created by brushes pressed against the plates by the force of a compressed spring.

The fan impeller always rotates in one direction. Therefore, for its fastening, a threaded nut is used, which is wrapped in the opposite direction of rotation. During the operation of the vacuum cleaner, it is additionally fixed by the forces of inertia, but cannot be unscrewed.

The same principle is used for bicycle pedals: they use two types of different thread directions: right and left winding for their side.

Disassembly sequence

To repair the electric motor of a vacuum cleaner, you must first:

1. remove the brushes from the housing;
2. unscrew the fixing nut with a left-hand thread so as not to damage the windings on the stator and rotor and preserve the design of the collector mechanism, leave it in good condition;
3. remove the armature and assess the condition of the bearings, conductors and windings.

I had to perform all these actions in order to disassemble the electric motor of the Samsung vacuum cleaner. I show them with pictures.

Removing the brushes

We alternately install a screwdriver on the fastening screw and turn it out.

Carefully remove the brush with your hand and inspect it.

The naked eye can see traces of soot with the formation of layers of graphite dust.

The same picture is observed on the second brush. Traces of sparking are clearly visible on the end surface.

This allows us to conclude that an external inspection of the collector and an electrical check of the condition of the rotor and stator windings are necessary.

It is impossible to do this through a closed engine cover: it needs to be disassembled and the anchor removed.

3 ways to unscrew the rotor mounting nut

Let's call them conditionally according to the technology of work:

1. cutting slots;
2. fixation with a loop for a noose;
3. fastening in a vice through adapters.

Each of these methods has its own advantages and disadvantages, and can be used depending on the availability of equipment and tool base.

notch on the shaft

A bit of history

This rotor mounting technology was used on the collector motor of any vacuum cleaner manufactured during the Soviet era. For the convenience of manual assembly and subsequent repair, a groove for a screwdriver blade was always created at the end of the shaft at the factory.

Her effort fixed the position of the rotor shaft, and the torque from the wrench clamped or loosened the nut. I have a similar engine that was used in . This cut is clearly visible in the photo below.

Modern technologies

Now production widely uses industrial robots and automation of all processes. In addition, the marketing policy of well-known manufacturers is designed to:

• long service life of manufactured equipment within the declared resource;
• performing repairs by block replacement of failed devices without disassembling them.

For these reasons, a defective commutator motor is simply replaced by a manufacturer with a new one without dismantling it: it's faster, easier and more profitable. Well, our home master likes to fix everything with his own hands the old fashioned way.

How to make a cut

The vacuum cleaner motor mounting nut and the rotor shaft are made of ordinary steel. You can cut into them. However, in our case it does not allow to execute in the usual way deepening of the fan housing in which they are hidden. Therefore, you will have to use an ordinary and circular saw of the appropriate diameter at its end.

Then we put a key on the nut, and a screwdriver on the cut in the motor shaft. It remains to apply force to create the opposite torque and use it to disassemble the mount.

I did not use this technology: I did not have a small circular saw for cutting metal. Tried two other methods.

And you can see its implementation in the video by Alexander M “How to unscrew the nut”.

Loop

The method is based on holding the anchor by the collector plates with the help of a knot. I had to check two options for unscrewing the nut using:

1. soft copper wire:
2. plastic rope.

Wire fastening

In principle, the polyvinyl chloride insulation of the mounting wire compresses the rotor shaft well over the collector plates, maintaining the integrity of their surface, and allows you to hold it for turning the nut.

I used a copper wire with a diameter of 2.5 mm square. However, the design of the loop turned out to be weakly tightened and did not provide a complete noose. When working with a key, I felt that the shaft was scrolling and did not apply much force.

When he pulled his wire out of the engine, he saw frayed insulation on it. With this method, I did not experiment anymore. However, I suggest looking at this technology in the HamRadio video “How to unscrew the nut on the engine”.

Cord attachment

He took a piece of thin rope and folded it in half lengthwise. In the middle I passed a soft wire that acts as a needle.

With its help, it turned out to be convenient to put a soft cord in a loop on a noose and pass it around the collector plates.

I tied a fastener knot around the case window.

An attempt to unscrew the nut in this way did not work out for me: the structure of the cord turned out to be weak - it simply broke from the applied tension forces.

If you repeat this method, then choose a stronger rope, cord or belt.

Clamp in vise

To fix the anchor in this way, it was necessary to make two adapters in the form of rectangular blocks from wood.

Their cross section should enter the opening of the housing for attaching the brush, and the length should reach the collector plates and protrude slightly. These distances are best pre or ruler.

Moreover, the side adjacent to the rotor must be turned with a round file in the form of a segment for a snug fit to the motor shaft.

With the help of these adapters, it was possible to fix the engine rotor in a vise, pressing it with medium force.

It remains to install socket wrench 12 mm and rotate it clockwise.

The nut is safely unscrewed. On its inner surface, a machined factory cavity is noticeable.

Further disassembly

Removing the top engine mount cover

It is simply worn on top and crimped around the perimeter in four places.

Factory-made dents can be carefully leveled with pliers.

Then the cover is simply retracted by hand and removed from the motor housing.

Air pump wheel

There is a fan under the cover. It shows slight damage to the plastic part of the case.

Inside the cover, layers of dust remaining after blowing the engine are clearly visible. They can also be seen in the photo of the fan near the inlet blades.

She stuck on the puck and under it.

We turn out the fixing screws with a screwdriver.

Anchor disassembly

Fastening is carried out:

• screws through the upper tab with a compartment for the upper bearing cage;
• protrusions with grooves in the cover;
• lower race of the bearing.

Screws for fastening the rotor in the motor stator

We get access to them immediately after removing the plastic fan housing.

We spin them. At the same time, we pay attention to the amount of building dust inside the case, which remains even after it is blown out from the outside.

Mounting plate protrusions included in the grooves of the stator housing

They are located next to the mounting screws and carry out additional fastening of the rotor.

Gently guide them with a flat screwdriver to the exit from the grooves.

Then we hold the mounting plate with our fingers through the internal holes or hang it on a support. The rotor is still held by attaching the outer race of the lower bearing. For me, by the way, it turned out to be additionally glued.

The protruding end of the threaded shaft axle must be protected from damage by a piece of dry hardwood board and struck with a hammer. The rotor will be knocked out of the stator.

Visual inspection

Traces of soot from graphite dust, formed as a result of burning brushes and glue on the bearing cage, are clearly visible on the rotor.

I tried to remove the contamination of the plates in the traditional neat way: wash it with alcohol or its solution with a cotton swab.

Nagar quite strongly stuck to the metal, it was very poorly dissolved. I had to work as a steel crow. The photo below shows the preliminary result of cleaning, requiring additional polishing of the surfaces.

But, for electrical measurements, this is quite enough. Then comes the cleaning of the grooves between the collector plates from debris, dust and soot, capable of shunting the rotor winding chains. At first he worked as a raven, and then as a scraper made of non-coniferous wood.

Electrical checks of armature circuits

I took my old tester and. It turned out to have a very large spread from one to 13 ohms in four adjacent areas.

This is clear evidence that wire breaks are created between the windings and electrical circuits are broken. The connection diagram of a serviceable rotor in a simplified form is as follows.

The collector plates are isolated from each other, but connected in series in a circle to exactly the same sections of windings made of equal lengths of wire with one electrical resistance R1. They are collected in one electrical circuit and therefore, with a working engine, they show equal values. Taking into account measurement errors and installation technology, their value may differ only by a fraction of an ohm and no more.

If the deviations are higher, then this indicates a break in individual conductors, creating a parallel chain through an air gap with a huge electrical resistance. Which is what I got.

I start looking for a break on the winding: I look at the anchor and notice places of blackening of the wire and broken ends.

I show these sections larger with a few comments.

The conclusion suggests itself: such a winding cannot be operated. It must be replaced with a correct one.

This malfunction was indirectly indicated by:

1. burnt surfaces of rubbing brushes;
2. burnt dust from graphite on the collector plates.

The rotor winding can be rewound with your own hands. This is a very real job for a home master, and I had to do it when repairing the anchor of a Soviet vacuum cleaner of the Raketa brand.

• you will have to mark the collector plates with an indelible marker;
• on the basis of the created markup, reproduce on paper the entire scheme of laying wires between the grooves of the magnetic circuit. To do this, you will have to literally feel them with your hands and carefully look out with your eyes;
• completely carefully remove the old wires without damaging the electrical insulation of the core;
• find a new one copper wire of the same section with an insulating layer of varnish resistant to high temperatures. A thin conductor will not withstand current loads, and the turns of a thicker one simply will not fit in the grooves of the magnetic circuit;
• laying in grooves requires increased care and constant fixation of the results of installation on paper;
• there will be difficulties with the electrical connection of the laid wires in the grooves of the collector plate. Ordinary may not provide temperature regime. Hard solders must be used.

Rewinding the armature winding with my own hands in an electrical laboratory took me a little more than two weeks. I did it during lunch breaks and in the windows between the performance of the main tasks. Then I fixed the engine, but I do not advise you to do such work yourself.

The cost of an electric motor is about half the price of a vacuum cleaner. So think about what is more profitable:

• replace the burned-out rotor or stator with rewound ones;
• buy the whole engine and install it in the old building;
• or simply purchase a new brand of vacuum cleaner with a warranty period of service.

Advice for the future: after repairing an apartment, it is cheaper to remove construction dust with a slightly damp cloth than with a household vacuum cleaner that is not intended for this purpose.

We hope that the video oleg pl “How to disassemble the vacuum cleaner motor” will help you.

Most likely your vacuum cleaner has already been sold with one or more additional attachments. It is possible that there was also an instruction with a detailed description, but the problem is that the vast majority of buyers do not read the instructions. We understand this perfectly, and decided to tell you how to use the most common nozzles correctly. By the way, if you like some special one, you can always buy an additional nozzle. Sold, both special, for certain models, and universal, which are suitable for almost everyone. The cost, depending on the type of nozzle, is from 800-1700 rubles.

For tall objects and ceilings

This is an extension tube for the hose, and its purpose is quite clear. It can be used in conjunction with an additional nozzle that is attached to the end of the pipe. Needed in order to get to hard-to-reach high places. For example, up to ceiling plinths, the top surface of the refrigerator or kitchen cabinets, and with the help of an additional pipe, it is convenient to remove dust behind furniture. You can choose a longer and shorter pipe depending on the height of your ceilings.

For upholstered furniture, mattresses and pillows

So that dust does not spoil furniture, does not make it dull and gray, do not forget about the nozzle for cleaning upholstered furniture. Do not look at the fact that she is so small and inconspicuous. It's great for pulling dust out of sofa cushions, roman blinds, and even mattresses.

For flat floors

This flat, wide brush is best for flat floors. Its short bristles perfectly capture dirt, crumbs and hair, which are then sucked into the vacuum cleaner. As a rule, such brushes are equipped with wheels or a rotating head, which make it maneuverable and easy to use.

For lampshades, books and home appliances

The brush head is usually round or triangular in shape with long, soft bristles that do not scratch surfaces. She can remove dust from furniture, clean lampshades, blinds, cornices, household appliances and books.

For cracks and corners

This is one of the most familiar - a narrow crevice nozzle for hard-to-reach places that can not be reached with a regular brush. It is convenient to vacuum along the baseboard and between the ventilation holes, as well as in other narrow corners. For example, the crevice tool is useful for sofas and armchairs to remove dust between cushions.

To remove hair

Pet owners will appreciate this nozzle. A brush with rubber bristles, creating a static charge, lifts the hairs of the wool and thereby facilitates their suction. Therefore, cleaning is faster and better.

For carpets and rugs

The Turbo Brush is ideal when you need a boost in power. With this nozzle, you can thoroughly comb the carpet and effectively remove dirt from the pile.

When choosing a new vacuum cleaner without a bag, you should pay attention to the complete set of the device. The number of brushes and accessories will greatly simplify your work with a vacuum cleaner (an example of this).

The set of cleaning equipment necessarily includes a crevice nozzle, a brush for the floor / carpet and upholstered furniture. Innovation in the world household appliances has become a turbo brush for a vacuum cleaner, which copes with stubborn dirt and stuck hair and wool.

2 Brownie brush

This versatile battery-powered brush vacuum cleaner has been specifically designed for the most comfortable cleaning in the house. With the help of the Brownie brush, you can easily clean not only upholstered furniture and clothing, but also the hair of domestic animals.

small dimensions and a light weight bagless vacuum cleaners provide maximum ease of use: the model is highly mobile. The vacuum cleaner "Domovenok" can serve as a crevice nozzle, penetrating into hard-to-reach corners of the apartment.

A universal brush-vacuum cleaner for furniture, carpets and animal hair is an indispensable assistant in the house for. Cleaning carpets from animal hair during shedding is always a lot of trouble. But the universal brush-vacuum cleaner "Domovenok" will cope with this task very simply. You can buy goods at a price of 750 rubles. Batteries are purchased separately.

2.1 Application of nozzles

For high-quality cleaning of the house, a different combination of components is used, which are attached to the vacuum cleaner in the following order:

1. The electrostatic brush is used for cleaning household appliances and indoor plants.
2. Then the upholstery of sofas and armchairs is cleaned with a brush nozzle. If it is necessary to remove animal hair, a nozzle with a turbo brush is used. A crevice nozzle is used to clean the corners.
3. Next, hard-to-reach places, skirting boards and corners are cleaned. To do this, a crevice nozzle is installed on the vacuum cleaner. If you are using a combination model that has a crevice nozzle, simply switch the cleaning mode using the button.
4. Now you can carry out the final cleaning of the apartment with the main brush. If the carpets are heavily soiled, a turbo brush is used.

2.2 How much does it cost?

The range of prices for components is very large. The cheapest parts can be bought from LG and Samsung manufacturers:

2.3 How to choose?

1. What to buy?

Brand compatibility is important when choosing components, because major manufacturers produce special parts for their equipment. If there are no specialized parts specifically for your vacuum cleaner, you can buy universal nozzles. Universal Models compatible with any brand of bagless cleaning machines.

2. Consider the diameter of the tube of your vacuum cleaner so that the components can be easily attached: the diameter of the nozzles is indicated in the instructions.

3. If you are going to buy a motorized turbo brush head, consider the power of your vacuum cleaner. When choosing an electric powered turbo, be aware of the possibility of damage to delicate upholstery fabrics and carpet pile. Turbo is great at getting rid of animal hair, but it can simply pull all the pile out of the carpet and ruin expensive sofa upholstery.