Step by step instructions for laying tiles on the floor. Rules for laying tiles and ceramic tiles in the bathroom: the procedure and stages of work when laying on the floor and on the walls Large tiles how to lay on the wall

Wall decoration with slabs has been very popular over the past decades. It is an environmentally friendly material that is practical and has a long service life. Wall cladding is performed in a variety of designs and shapes, since among a large assortment of tiles it is easy to choose best option. The technology of laying tiles on walls was previously available only to experienced craftsmen, but today this work is possible for all users. This requires purchasing essential tool and follow our advice.

Laying tiles on the wall is required in compliance with all technologies, so that the product is guaranteed to serve you for the maximum period, delighting with its beauty and other qualities. Do not skip a single point of the process, strictly adhering to the markings and proportions of the materials used in the work. Self-laying tiles on the wall saves a lot of money, since craftsmen usually charge an amount equal to the cost of the tile for services.

Laying technology tiles includes several processes, the first of which is marking horizontally and vertically.

In the first option, take a level and use it to find the lowest point of the selected wall.
Next, you need to make a mark at the height of one element.
Before mounting the tiles on the wall, draw a horizontal line along all surfaces at this point, using a level.
From the bottom mark, mark the location of the next horizontal line. The second row is laid down from it. According to the technology of laying tiles with your own hands, it is done first.

Advice! According to the technology, how tiles are laid on the wall correctly, it is required to nail a plank of wood or metal along the bottom line. It serves as an obstacle to sliding elements.

To create a vertical layout:

use a tape measure to find the center of the wall;
from this point on both sides we lay a tile and determine whether it fits back to back, or whether the final elements need to be trimmed;
if the second option is obtained, then the central mark must be moved to the left so that the part fits completely on this side;
draw a vertical line along the new central mark using a level;
all four surfaces are marked in this way before laying tiles on the walls.

The classic layout is suitable for beginners, and for professionals, the creation of original patterns is available. When calculating, do not forget to leave a distance for the seam.

Choosing a tile for laying in the bathroom

Wall cladding with ceramic tiles is often used in rooms where moisture-resistant material is needed. When choosing a bathroom tile, you need to pay attention to several criteria, including packaging, as it contains a brief description of products. The sign in the shape of a hand and foot indicates the purpose of the product - for walls or floors. A dash indicates wear resistance, a snowflake indicates frost resistance. The number of stars will “tell” about the quality of the material - the higher the number, the better the thickness ceramic tiles and other parameters.

There are three classes of tiles on the Internet and hardware stores:

the first - for the technology of laying ceramic tiles on the bathroom wall;
2 - for country cottages;
3 - for the floor of residential buildings.

In addition to different colors, the type of surface is different - matte or glossy. You can also order any drawings. Since it is possible to glue tiles on the wall without special education, this is a plus of the product. It also has the following features:

resistance to pollution;
ease of care;
strength;
durability, etc.

Preparatory stage

The preparation of the walls must be treated carefully, since the whole procedure and the further service life depend on it. The surface must be flat, without drops, so that the process is as simple as possible. If there are irregularities, they will have to be adjusted by the amount of applied adhesive composition. Preparatory work includes:

measurement of the total area to calculate the consumption of building materials;
determining the level of the degree of deviation of the walls;
a knock-on strength test to identify poorly adhering layers that need to be removed;
cleaning from grease, stains, paint residues, glue, tiles and wallpaper;
alignment;
padding.

Preparation of the base for laying tiles begins on a dry surface.

To level concrete, stone and brick walls, cement mortar treatment is required.
A layer of roofing material is applied to the tree, metal grid and plaster on top.
Drywall surface preparation consists of pasting with a plastic mesh.
The plaster needs to be chipped with a chisel to improve adhesion. If not, use an axe.

Tile cutting technology

Before gluing the tiles to the wall, you need to cut out the missing elements using a tile cutter. This is often required at corners or when making holes for drain pipes.

To cut ceramic tiles, the product is scratched with a tool. Use a ruler to get an even result.
Then it is placed on the edge of the table so that it coincides with the outlined line. Glazed top.
By pressing on the tile from two sides, break it along the cut.

If you want to cut tiles of irregular shape, then you first need to mark with a felt-tip pen. Excess pieces are broken off with tongs. Next, the edge is processed with a grindstone. This is done in any case, regardless of the thickness of the tiles on the wall.

Round cutouts for pipes are made with a drill. To do this, stick masking tape on which the drilling location is marked. In the process, gradually increase the size of the drills to the desired end result.

To obtain a round cutout, the markup is carried out as follows:

lean the required size of ceramic wall tiles (consider thickness and other parameters in advance) on one side of the pipe, then under or above it;
transfer the markup to the part corresponding to the level of the sides, top and bottom of the pipes;
then draw lines at right angles to the edges of the tiles;
in the middle of the resulting rectangle, mark a circle with a size equal to the diameter of the pipe.

Another method for creating a round cutout is to cut the tile in half. The cut should pass through the center of the circle so that in the future the pipe hides the resulting joint. This is done both vertically and horizontally. After cutting the part, make a semicircle of the required size on each half.

We glue ceramics: process features

Before you put the tiles on the wall, mark the beginning. If the room has outer corner, then start from it, moving to the inner. If all corners are internal, then do-it-yourself tile laying should start from a vertically located central mark.

Glue ceramic tiles on the wall from the bottom up. In the process, use a notched trowel, which you want to hold at an angle of 30-45 °,

Apply Litokol tile adhesive to the square of the surface. You can choose another manufacturer.
Immediately glue the tile, while pressing on it. You can also tap with a rubber mallet. While the glue mixture has not dried, move the product to the sides, aligning it in a perfect row.

Advice! If it is not possible to apply Eunice (or any other) tile adhesive directly to the walls, then it is allowed to cover the tiles with it. Some technologies describe the smearing of each surface.

While gluing tiles to the wall, separate the elements with crosses, placing them on the side of the part, or at the intersection of four elements at once.
Level to check the alignment of products in the horizontal and vertical direction.
After you have correctly glued the tiles on the wall on the entire row, remove the remnants of the adhesive composition from the seams before it has time to harden. Then it will be difficult to do so.
Wait a day for the ceramic to dry.
Then remove the bar.
Now lay the cut pieces.
At the end, the bottom row is placed. Before sticking it, tiles are installed on the floor. Before work, try on each piece, trimming it if necessary.

Seam sealing

Wall tiling is completed with grouting using the following technology.

Remove the exposed adhesive. This may require a knife and solvent.
Mix the Mapei grout (or your choice of grout) according to the manufacturer's instructions. Most often chosen White color, but you can purchase a brighter one for contrast.
Next, use a spatula to apply it to the seams after laying the tiles on the wall.
Treat the area carefully. Remove the rest of the mixture with a damp sponge.
Remove excess cement grout using a rubber eraser.
Wait for the composition to dry and polish the area with a dry cloth.

Attention! In the gaps between the bathroom and the wall where the tiles were laid, the space is filled not with grout, but with sealant.

List of tools and materials

Professional level tiling is available with the following tool. It can be purchased at any hardware store. You need to have all the components, since laying tiles on the walls is not possible in the absence of any of them.

The adhesive to be chosen based on the characteristics of the coating and the purpose of the room.
Perforator with a nozzle for mixing the composition.
The capacity for this procedure is 10-15 liters.
Notched trowel or steel float for applying the adhesive. You may need a trowel for hard-to-reach places.
Grout and sealant.
Tile cutter or roller glass cutter.
Pencil or chalk.
Plaster and putty.
Trim to create an angle.
Crosses 1.5-2 mm wide for dividing tiles.
Hacksaw for ceramics.
Ruler and tape measure.
Primer, primer to increase the adhesive properties of the coating and provide better adhesion.
Level.
Long profile or wooden lath.
Nails and dowels for attaching them.
Tongs for tiles.
Grinding stone for processing sharp edges of cut ceramic tiles of any thickness.
Rubber spatula or seam trowel.
Masking tape.
Drill for pipes.

What is the difference between laying tiles on the floor

You can lay tiles on the wall and on the floor in the same room, such as a bathroom or kitchen. This is done using almost the same technology. The surface is also prepared, primed, marked. Work begins from the far wall to the exit. We actively use the level, leveling the surface with the amount of glue applied. At the end of the work - finishing the seams.

These methods of laying tiles are do-it-yourself, if you have the required knowledge, skills and tools. If stick right technology, then the product will delight you with its beautiful view over decades of operation.

In this article I will tell you the basic rules for laying tiles on walls, namely: preparing walls, marking the wall for laying tiles, laying tiles, grouting tile joints. This is the second part of the article “Laying tiles on the floor and walls. Basic rules ”(Read the first part).

Preparatory work for wall tiling

1.Support rail

On the lower boundary of the tile laying, even support rails with a width of about 50 mm should be installed.

2.Checking the wall surface

If the tiling wall is very uneven, you will need to remove the old plaster and re-plaster the wall. For plastering, use guide beacons.

3. Wall tiles can be laid on moisture-resistant drywall, fiberboard, plywood, tongue-and-groove blocks, brick. Suitable for laying tiles and surfaces made of chipboard and MDF, but not in wet rooms.

Preparing the wall surface for tiling

The wall must be dry, level, solid and clean. You can degrease the wall with soapy water. It's better to remove the paint. Dust from the wall is removed when priming. Holes and dents should be patched with gypsum plaster or alabaster and sanded smooth before laying.

Drywall, MDF or chipboard walls should be sealed with oil-based sealants. Walls made of chipboard and MDF should not move or sway. Otherwise, tiles laid on movable walls will crack.

For better adhesion of the tile to the surface, notches must be applied to the walls. Before laying the tiles, the surface of the walls must be primed with a concrete contact or an acrylic primer.

Preparatory procedures before laying tiles on the wall

Marking the wall for laying tiles.

Determine the bottom border of the tile laying. How to do it?

1. If you want the lower tiles to be without undercut, then it is better to lay the tiles on the walls below the second tile from the floor. Attach the tile to the bottom of the wall. At the top of the tile, draw a straight horizontal line across the wall (See Figure 5). Install a level support rail along this line.

2. If you have a natural level of whole tiles in your room, such as the level of a bathtub or furniture, then you need to install a level support rail at this level.

3. The same rail will have to be installed if you want to have a whole tile on top of the wall. When measuring the level, do not forget to add the width of the tile joints.

Support rail installation

After determining the height of the first row, using alcohol building level, draw a straight line. Install the support rail along this line. The rail should be flat and straight.

Tiling methods

1.Laying from the center of the wall. Determine the center of the wall. Draw a vertical tile line. By laying tiles from the center, the cut tiles will be placed symmetrically on both sides of the wall.

2. Laying from one corner. With this laying of tiles, you need to start laying from the most prominent corner of the room, and cut behind the furniture.

3. When facing not the entire wall, but only part of it. Lay the tiles from the edge to the corner. The cut will have to be made in the corner.

Laying tiles on the wall

1. Lay the first, whole tile from the vertical axial or from the visible corner.

2. Apply tile adhesive to small plot walls. Level the adhesive with a notched trowel. In hard-to-reach areas of the wall, apply glue to the tiles, and also make furrows with a notched trowel.

3. From the center, lay the tiles according to the scheme in Figure 6. Constantly control the horizontal and vertical level of the tiles.

Control along the edges and on the front side of the tile. Correct easy levels tapping on tiles. Do not forget to install plastic crosses between the tiles.

4. After laying each square. meters of tiles, clean the seams between tiles from glue.

5. After laying whole tiles, proceed to undercutting.

6. Straight tile cuts are easy to make manual tile cutter. If you need to make a large number of undercuts, it is better to use a tile cutter.

Curvilinear cuts are made using tile tongs or a diamond wire mounted on a hacksaw.

Round holes should be made with a diamond crown mounted on a drill.

7.After laying the entire tile, remove the remaining adhesive and wipe the tile again with a damp sponge. Leave the tile for 24 hours before grouting.

Grouting tiles

1. Mix the grout according to the instructions on the package. Use latex or water-based grouts depending on conditions. Press the grout into the joints with a rubber spatula. Move the spatula with a Christmas tree in relation to the seam.

Use a hard plastic squeegee to remove excess grout.

Apply grout diagonally.

Press the grout firmly into the seams.

3. Wipe off excess grout with a clean damp (not wet) sponge.

4. Use a piece of round cable or the handle of a toothbrush to smooth the seams.

You don't have to be a professional to tile the wall yourself. We have prepared for you a step-by-step guide that tells you about all the pitfalls that you can expect.

To get started, take the time to find the right tile for you. Calculate required amount tiles: measure the area of the walls and add another 10%. Also, plan on a pack of tiles that you save in case you need to replace individual cracked/tarnished/broken tiles in the future.

Don't skimp on glue! Thanks to good glue tile will serve you for a long time. Adhesive selection depends on the surface on which you will lay the tiles. Suitable for hygroscopic mineral surfaces such as concrete cement adhesive. If you are laying tiles on a difficult surface - on top of old tiles, on young concrete, wood, etc., and also if the adhesive will be affected by high temperatures or humidity, the choice is made in favor of elastic adhesive. Dispersion adhesive suitable for smooth indoor surfaces (drywall, rigid foam, smooth plaster).

The choice of adhesive determines and choice of primer and grout for grouting. They should fit the glue, and ideally they should be from the same manufacturer.

Step 1 - how to prepare the walls before laying tiles

Before you start laying tiles, you need to prepare the walls. The surface must be clean, dry, level, free of dust and sound. Align all the bumps and cracks with putty, applying it with a spatula.

After the putty dries (specify the time required for this in the instructions), carefully clean the surface of grease and dirt. Delete also old paint. Where water splashes can hit the tiles, waterproof the walls. Apply primer to the walls. Hygroscopic surface type cement screed, lime or cement plasters are treated with a primer deep penetration. Surfaces that do not absorb moisture, such as concrete, are treated with an adhesive primer that provides better adhesion to the tile adhesive. Apply the primer evenly with a wide brush or roller and leave the walls to dry for the time specified in the instructions.

Step 2 - how to apply tile adhesive to walls

Different types of tile adhesive require different training. Cement and elastic adhesive is thoroughly mixed in water in the required proportion (see instructions for the adhesive) so that there are no lumps. After stirring, the glue needs time to "ripen". For stirring, you can use the mixer nozzle of a drill operating at low speeds. Dispersion adhesive does not require pre-treatment.

Using a spatula, apply the tile adhesive evenly to the primed wall. Sweep over the adhesive with a notched trowel until a smooth surface is formed. The notched trowel must be held at an angle of 45 degrees to the wall. The size of the spatula notch depends on the structure of the back surface of the tile, its size and the material from which the wall is made: the more figured the back of the tile, the greater the notch of the spatula. Move gradually and apply glue at a time on the surface of such an area that you can paste over in the next 30 minutes (average 1-1.5 sq.m.).

Step 3 - how to properly tile on the wall

The tile is laid symmetrically "from the inside" to the outer edges, since the cut pieces of the tile located in the corners are less conspicuous. Therefore, start laying tiles from the outer edge and continue working towards the inner corners.

If you plan on laying tiles that are not up to the ceiling, start with the top row. Using a level, mark a horizontal line here, and in the middle of the wall - a vertical line perpendicular to it (this is easy to do with a plumb line). Stick masking tape along the markings, which can be removed after applying the glue.

Start masonry from the top row (border), located along the horizontal line. When the top row is laid, go to the vertical row perpendicular to it, the result should be the letter "T" of the tiles. From here, further laying will take place in the direction of the corners.

Step 4 - actually laying the tiles on the wall

In order to ensure better adhesion of the tile to the adhesive, the tile must not only be applied, but lightly pressed into the adhesive. rotational movement. After that, you need to easily drive the tile into the glue with a rubber mallet.

During the laying process, check from time to time whether enough adhesive remains on the back of the tile. To do this, selectively tear off individual tiles from the wall: at least 80% of the back surface must be covered with adhesive, and 100% for natural stone tiles. With the help of the level, check the horizontal arrangement of the rows, because until the glue has set, the arrangement of the tiles can be corrected.

Tile crosses will help keep the same distance between the tiles. Just insert crosses of the desired size between the tiles, but be sure to remove them before grouting.

Step 5 - how to cut tiles

Cutting tile requires special tools. The tile cutter creates a clean and even cut. For thin or soft tiles, ceramic tile cutters can be used.

Cut the tile from the outside and break off an unnecessary piece. If you need to make a round hole in the tile, use the parrot beak tile pliers to cut out the required hole step by step. An alternative is a drill with a drill bit.

Step 6 - how to embroider tile seams

The seams between the tiles are necessary in order to smooth out possible movements and tensions. The seams are filled with grouting mortar. The mortar must be suitable for the primer and adhesive: for example, if an elastic adhesive is used, the mortar must also be elastic.

First, clear all seams with a wooden wedge. Start stripping before the adhesive has fully cured, approximately 60 minutes after application. However, the jointing of the seams must be done after the glue has completely dried. The amount of time required for the glue to dry is indicated in the instructions for the glue; usually it is at least a day. Please note that the dispersion adhesive takes much longer to dry than the cementitious adhesive.

Combine the grouting solution with water in the proportion indicated in the instructions to the state of a thick porridge. Important! Be sure to wear rubber gloves when handling the solution. Using a rubber grouting trowel, spread the grout evenly over the tiles. The solution must be applied in a diagonal direction, lightly pressing it into the seams. Remove excess solution with a rubber squeegee, and the remaining thin layer of solution can be washed off with a damp sponge after it dries. At the end of this work, the tiles will need to be wiped with a dry, clean cloth.

Step 7 - How to seal corner tile joints

Corner joints are not rubbed with grouting solution, but sealed with sealant. Sealant prevents mold growth.

To begin with, the edges of the tile are pasted over with masking tape, the remaining glue is removed from the seam. Porous, hygroscopic surfaces are treated with a primer. Sealant is evenly poured into the seam. Using a spatula to level the tile joints, excess sealant is removed and its surface is leveled. A little secret: if you moisten a seam leveling trowel in soapy water, the caulk will not stick to it, and you will not remove more caulk than necessary.

At the end of the work, it is necessary to remove the masking tape by pulling it at an acute angle obliquely from the seam. Do not forget to carefully read the instructions of the manufacturers of the materials you have chosen!

List of materials needed for laying tiles

tiles (beautiful options are sold in the World of Tiles store) link)
putty
primer
sealant
tile adhesive
tile crosses
grouting solution
masking tape

List of tools needed for laying tiles

putty knife
wide paint brush or roller
drill with nozzles for mixing and for drilling holes
trowel
notched trowel
level, folding ruler, plumb line
tile cutter, ceramic tile cutter
parrot beak tile pliers
sealant press
rubber spatula
spatula for leveling tile joints
rubber mallet

The instruction is written on the materials of the site obi.de

Modern housing is beautiful, convenient and comfortable, but first of all, this is facilitated by the repair, albeit inexpensive, but carried out with soul. You can transform any room with the help of tiles, and it is used in the bathroom, in the kitchen and in the corridor, and all other rooms are lined with other types of finishing material.

But before laying tiles on the wall, you need to familiarize yourself with its characteristics and find out the manufacturer's recommendations.

Differences in finishing material

Let's not go too deep into specifications each type of tile, but it is very important to consider what material it is made of.

For example, a tile belongs to the category of moisture resistant, because it is made of baked clay, and the gypsum finishing material is not friendly with water - it quickly absorbs it and warps. Given the characteristics, it is necessary to select tiles corresponding to its parameters for each room.

The tile is stronger and can be washed, while the gypsum tile is afraid of water and is not resistant to shock, and dust accumulates on its uneven surface. After weighing all the pros and cons, the homeowner must determine for himself where, how and with what kind of tiles the room will be finished.

What is included in surface preparation

Now let's look at how the walls are prepared for laying tiles. You can lay tiles on glue or cement-sand mortar, and the preparation of the base depends on the choice of the type of adhesive mixture. With the help of a cement-sand mortar, tiles can be laid on uneven wall, since the layer of this composition will be considerable, which will help to cover all the irregularities.

Having saved on leveling the walls before laying the tiles, you will have to fiddle for a long time during its laying, trying to level the surface. Since the solution quickly loses plasticity, you will have to repeatedly remove the tile, clean the base from the solution, and re-lay the tile in place.

Then it will be necessary to thoroughly clean the seams - as they say, "the game is not worth the candle", so we will not dwell on this technology in detail.

In order for the laying of tiles on the wall to be done without small inserts, sometimes it is necessary to build up the base with a cement-sand mortar.
For example, the distance from the corner to the door is 83.5 cm.
The size of the tile is 20×30 cm.
It turns out that 4 tiles will fall on this surface, but there are still 3.5 cm left.
Let's fold 1 cm onto the tile joint, and 0.5 cm onto the tile on the corner wall - 2 cm remains.
It is impractical to cut off such narrow stripes, so the side wall can be increased by at least 1.5 cm, and when laying, lay out the tiles, slightly increasing the seams so that it lies evenly. Depending on how well the wall is leveled, it depends which layer of glue will be applied subsequently.

A more advanced method of preparing the wall is to thoroughly level the base with a cement-sand mortar or drywall "to zero".

When checking with a rule or a wedge, tiny gaps are allowed to remain. Aligned walls are primed with a composition that has the property of penetrating deeply into the surface. This method implies that a minimum thickness of adhesive will be applied.

Having dealt with the question of how to prepare the walls, let's take care of the tool.

Let's prepare the tool

Each owner has a tape measure and a hammer, but in order to quickly and correctly lay tiles, you will need a special tool:

bubble level;
laser level;
trowel or spatula;
rubber spatula;
comb (notched trowel);
rule 1–2 m (depending on the width of the wall);
manual tile cutter (or electric);
wire cutters;
grinder with a diamond wheel;
drill with mixer nozzle;
mounting crosses and / or SVP;
foam sponge;
soft fabric.

Having prepared all the necessary tools, you can start marking the walls.

Why markup is needed, and how to apply it

The technology of laying ceramic tiles on a wall involves marking, so you need to find out what it is and how it is applied.

It is important! When marking walls for tiles, it is necessary to ensure that the tiles are arranged in such a way that cut parts are not installed in the most noticeable or visually important places. If this is not possible, then you need to try to mark up in such a way that the tiles along the edges are symmetrical.

You need to find out for yourself one more question - where will the cut tile be more visible - from below or from above? Many people, without even thinking about it, answer: “Of course, from above.” But this statement is not always correct. In a large room, the cut tiles glued under the ceiling really immediately become noticeable, especially when the bottom one is almost invisible because of the furniture.

In a small toilet, no one looks at the ceiling at all, and in the bathroom only when you are lying in the bath. Depending on the type of room, laying ceramic tiles on the wall is done in different ways. If there is a whole tile on top, then a distance equal to the height of the tile + the thickness of the cross is laid off from the ceiling to the floor.

Let's show this with an example.

We will conditionally assume that the height of the room is 240 cm, the height of the tile is 30 cm, and the thickness of the crosses is 0.3 cm. This means that its height together with the cross will be 30.3 cm. 8 tiles do not fit, so we take 7 pcs.
7×30.3=212.1

So we found out the distance from the highest point of the ceiling to the level of the second row of tiles, from which the laying will begin.

note

In a similar way, marking is performed from the visible corner, only this time the width of the tile is taken into account.

If the wall tiles are laid in such a way that the bottom is not cut off, then measurements are taken from the bottom of the floor. A distance of 30 cm is measured and a mark is applied, along which a horizontal line is marked with a laser level.

Marking is performed somewhat differently when laying tiles diagonally on the wall. In this case, it is used square tiles, and the measurement point is not its dimensions, but the distance from one corner to another.

tiling

Consider how to glue the tiles on the wall, depending on the type of installation.

In order not to repeat in each paragraph, we will touch on general points, explaining how to properly glue the tiles:

No need to guess how to glue the tiles. Use the recommended adhesive mixtures, which can be both for outdoor and for internal works. For the bath, the latter with moisture resistance properties are selected.
The glue is mixed with a mixer in small portions.
A guide is attached to the wall along the marked line (usually the CD profile). The laser level provides invaluable assistance, but in the absence of this device, you can get by with a water level.
Many people often have a question about whether it is necessary to soak the tiles before laying. Previously, this was the norm, since sand-cement mortar was used instead of glue.
You can not wet the tile if it is glued, as this will only hurt. But the question is whether it is necessary to wet the tile before laying it on cement-sand mortar left to the discretion of the one who will carry out its installation. It all depends on how quickly the facing material absorbs water.
The question may also arise as to whether it is necessary to putty the base before gluing the tiles. This should be done only if there is a need to align the walls.
Before laying ceramic tiles on the wall, it is recommended to rub the adhesive mixture into its working part. Such actions will greatly increase its adhesion to the wall.
The glue is applied to a small section of the wall, otherwise it will dry out and have to be removed.

A professional tiler will show you how to lay ceramic tiles on a wall - video

Now let's look at how do-it-yourself tile laying on the wall is done. If you already have an old tile on the wall and it holds securely, then it is allowed to lay the tile on the tile. How to do it right.

Seam to seam

This method is the most popular, it is even called traditional. With this layout, one tile is located exactly above the other, so the rows are even in both horizontal and vertical positions.

During installation, you need to make sure that not a single tile is turned upside down, as this will not affect the appearance of the coating in the best way. It is very important that all the gaps are the same size, and the rows are laid strictly horizontally, otherwise it will become very noticeable in the corners, since each new corner tile will differ in size from the previous one.

Off the beaten track

If a decision is made to glue the tiles on the wall apart, then you need to take into account that there may be several schemes. The laid tile may resemble brickwork, and then the surface will look like brick wall, or each new tile is laid with a slight offset to the side.

If you plan to make the coating multi-colored, then it is better to first lay out the tiles on the floor in the way it will be laid on the wall, and look at what happened. When laying, the main attention is paid to horizontal seams.

Diagonally

If you want to lay tiles diagonally on the wall, then you should take into account that this is the most difficult way. Installation starts from the visible part of the room. The main difficulty lies in accurately cutting the tile diagonally, because the slightest deviation will become very noticeable.

Whatever way the tile is laid, it must be located in the same plane, so you constantly have to check and align it with the rule. There is a very handy device called the "Tile Alignment System" (SVP).

After acquiring such a facing material, you need to sort it by size. Periodically, until the glue has dried, it is necessary to clean the tile joints. Now it remains to wipe the seams with a fugue, and then rub the surface with a soft cloth so that the coating acquires a presentable appearance.

Video - laying tiles on the wall with your own hands. Step-by-step instruction

Finishing with plaster elements

It is also necessary to figure out how to glue gypsum tiles on the wall, because the material itself and the installation technology have their own characteristics. What is gypsum tiles and what is it for? This is a rather fragile material that easily absorbs water, so it is not recommended to use it for lining wet rooms.

The tile itself has the shape of bricks, and its surface is uneven, which creates the feeling that the room is finished with brick or stone, which makes its own adjustments to the installation technology. Given these and other features, we will describe how to properly lay gypsum tiles.

Before laying tiles on the wall, the surface must be prepared in the same way as under the tiles, you may have to putty the walls.

Installation begins with the visible part of the room. Sometimes there are elements different size, and then you need to put aside those with the maximum thickness in order to use them for mounting on another wall.
Glue is applied to the wall in such a way that 4 elements can be glued.
The thickness of the tile adhesive is adjusted with a notched trowel, and if the wall is poorly leveled, then you can increase the layer of adhesive mixture or use the thick elements set aside.
Glue is also applied to the wrong side of the plaster plate.
The tile is slightly pressed against the wall and its position is corrected, and if glue comes out in the seams, then it must be carefully removed, and if the composition has got on the front of the facing material, then it is removed with a brush dipped in water.
Each next row is laid with an offset so that the surface resembles brickwork.

In this order, work continues until complete completion. Having learned all the subtleties, it remains to test your abilities in practice by lining the walls in your house or apartment.

If before you needed to use a puncher and a chisel to remove the old tiles. After such a procedure, the apartment was dusty and dirty. Fortunately, today this is not necessary, new flexible materials make it easy and safe to glue tiles directly onto old tiles.

In this instruction, we will tell you step by step how to lay ceramic tiles on the wall, draw your attention to special points, and give advice.

Important: In order for your new ceramic tile to hold securely, you need the right adhesive. It is recommended to use either polymer tile adhesive (Flex adhesive) on cement base or ready-to-use dispersion adhesive.

Cement-based flexible adhesives contain plastic additives, thanks to which the tiles adhere well even on a smooth surface. Flexible adhesive can be used on walls and floors.

Dispersion adhesive consists of plastics dissolved in water. It can be used immediately without any kneading. Due to its high adhesive strength, it is very suitable for smooth substrates.

Attention: dispersion adhesives take a very long time to dry completely and are not frost-resistant. Therefore, they can only be used for heated residential premises.

Choose a primer and grout that matches the type of adhesive being used - preferably from the same manufacturer. In doing so, follow the instructions on the packaging.

Step 1 - Determine Material Needs

To determine the right amount of materials - tiles, glue. First you need to determine the areas on which the laying of ceramic tiles should be made. Next, select the desired tile design, you can also use several types of tiles to create an individual design. Be sure to stock up on tiles so that a certain amount is left for possible future repairs.

Step 2 - Check the base and prepare it

The base for the tile must be clean, dry, even and strong enough - the latter is especially important for floor tiles. The strength and reliability of the old tiled surface is easy to check by gently tapping it with a rubber mallet. Tiles that do not hold well must be removed. Then all the irregularities are corrected with putty. After sufficient time to dry (following the manufacturer's instructions), carefully clean the entire surface of excess putty and dirt. Treat with mildew preventative if necessary.

Step 3 - Priming the surface under the tile

Before facing, the base must be primed. Apply with tempered quartz sand primer with a wide brush or roller evenly on the surface of the old tile and let it dry well, preferably overnight (following the manufacturer's instructions). A base with good adhesion is very important, as it will later allow new tiles are holding up well.

Step 4 - Trimming and Drilling the Tile

Ceramic tiles can be cut with a tile cutter. To do this, scratch the plate on top and break its edge. If needed round holes, break them out with pliers or drill with a drill.

Step 5 - Wall Tile Technique

Wall tiles are laid symmetrically. Using a spirit level, draw the vertical and horizontal base lines. Start with the first row of tiles on a horizontal baseline. Then continue laying the tiles in a vertical line (you'll end up with a T-shape). Next, lay the tiles so that only whole tiles lie in the center, and the trimmings fall on the edges near the walls and floor.

Step 6 - Floor Tile Technique

For floor tiles, find the middle of the room and draw a guide line there, or draw one, parallel to the side wall. Lay out the first row of tiles (either the center of the tile along the line, or its edge) along this line. Then continue along the front side (so that you have an L-shape).

Step 7 - Applying the Tile Adhesive

If you are not using ready-made dispersion tile adhesive, prepare a sufficient amount of flexible cementitious adhesive according to the manufacturer's instructions. For mixing, you can use an electric drill with a special nozzle. Apply glue to the base and comb it with a notched trowel. Keep it at an angle of about 45 degrees. Always apply as much adhesive to the tiles as you can process in 30 minutes (depending on the speed of work - from 1 to 1.5 m2).

Step 8 - Laying ceramic tiles on the wall

Press the tile into the adhesive with a slight twisting motion. Tile crosses help you maintain the correct spacing between tiles. (The crosses must be removed before grouting, but if they are too deep, they can be left and then repaired with grout.)

Randomly check if there is enough adhesive on the tile (should be at least 80 percent coverage). While laying, lightly tap the tiles with a rubber mallet. If necessary, use corner or end profiles.

Do not forget to provide expansion joints in appropriate places. When moving to other rooms and coverings, compensators should also be provided.

Step 9 - Seal the seams between the tiles

The seams between tiles are important because they compensate for movement and stress. Even before the adhesive has hardened (after about 60 minutes), clean the tiles and the joints themselves with a wooden wedge. After curing (follow the manufacturer's instructions, this is at least 24 hours) mix the grout into a creamy porridge. Pay attention to the maturation time of this solution.

Protect yourself when working with rubber gloves. Spread the mortar evenly and apply pressure with a rubber spatula or hand tool. Remove excess grout from the cracks, after drying, remove the remnants of the solution with a damp sponge. To completely clean the tile, wipe it with a dry cloth.

Step 10 - Close Expansion Joints

All volumetric, fillet and connecting seams must be sealed with a continuous, elastic sealing mass, such as silicone. To do this, glue the edges of the seams on both sides with masking tape. Then, using a cartridge and a gun for it, we evenly apply silicone to the seams.

We remove excess silicone and make the seam smooth and even. Remove masking tape, wipe everything.

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