The best option for warming a frame house. How and how to insulate a frame house from the inside with your own hands: possible risks

Frame houses are more suitable for summer living. If such a house is used all year round, it will need to be insulated. For sound insulation, comfort and durability of the building, insulation must be carried out in compliance with GOSTs.

In this article I will tell you how to insulate frame house for winter residence.

Ways of warming frame houses

First you need to decide on the type of thermal insulation. It can be internal, external, as well as insulation of the floor, ceiling, etc.

What you need to know about outdoor insulation

This type of insulation has the following advantages:

Additional protection of walls against deformation.
The insulation takes on sudden changes in temperature, thereby extending the life of the building.
It makes the walls smoother, making it possible to use different facade finishing materials.

External insulation is:

ventilated;
wet insulation.

The first method is the most common and economical, such work can be done without the help of specialists. A gap is made between the insulation and the lining, which performs the function of ventilation. Thus, the condensate accumulated in the heater is blown out by the air flow. This technology extends the life of the building.

The second way - we glue the insulation to the wall, and then fasten it to the dowels. From above we apply several coatings: reinforcing, intermediate and decorative. However, without work experience, it is impossible to perform "wet" insulation.

Important about warming the house from the inside

Internal insulation of the house has a number of advantages:

the ability to work in any weather and season;
you can lay the insulation yourself;
provides good sound insulation.

Among the disadvantages:

condensation may appear on the wall, under the insulation;
the wall does not warm up well, which leads to dampness;
reduction in floor space;
materials used are harmful to health;
gaps remain at the junction of the insulation through which cold will appear.

When insulating the walls inside the building, you should consider:

Humidity in the room.
The weather conditions of the area where the house is built.
insulation properties.
Thermal parameters of the wall.

How to insulate a frame house for winter living?

In order to make it possible to live comfortably in the frame, and in winter, the material used for insulation must have the following qualities:

Environmental friendliness - the insulation should not contain substances that can be harmful to health.
Fire resistance - the material should not ignite, and in case of fire - emit a large amount of smoke.
A small coefficient of thermal conductivity is optimal if the insulation for winter in a frame house is in the range of 100-150 mm.
Strength and tightness - the insulation must tightly fill the gaps of the frame.
Ease of installation of thermal insulation.

For warming frame house it is customary to choose between polystyrene foam, extruded polystyrene foam, mineral wool, basalt wool and polyurethane foam.

I'll point it out right now!

I am a supporter of the use in insulation frame houses basalt (stone) wool. The advantages of this material are undeniable!

Consider the advantages and disadvantages of each.

Styrofoam

The material is considered the warmest, but less than others is suitable for warming frame houses. Usage features:

Styrofoam - these are rigid plates, they are laid on a flat wall. For a frame house, this insulation option is only suitable for a perfectly flat surface, otherwise cold air will come through the gaps.
The material must not be placed near sources of fire.
Does not allow moisture to pass through, requires the installation of reliable waterproofing and vapor barrier.

light weight, which makes the installation process simple;
does not lose its properties with temperature changes.

Insulation is best installed outside the building.

This is a high quality material with good thermal insulation properties. It is made from granular polystyrene and foaming agent.

Low water absorption. This indicator remains unchanged even when high humidity.
No additional waterproofing required.
Strength.
Low flammability.
It can be used at temperatures from -50 to +75 degrees.
Environmental friendliness and harmlessness to health.
You can install it yourself.

Low vapor barrier. To improve the indicator, ventilation is required.
High price.
Installation of an additional frame on which the material will be attached.
Applying a special compound to polystyrene foam to protect against UV rays.

Due to its quality characteristics, the material is often used for insulation of floors, facades and foundations.

Mineral wool

Mineral wool is based on fibers from minerals of volcanic origin.

Among the advantages stand out:

Low thermal conductivity.
Fire resistance. This material not only does not ignite, but also does not allow the fire to spread.
Light weight, which makes it easier and faster to install.
Ensures the durability of the building.

Over time, the wool becomes caked, as a result, the integrity of the thermal insulation is violated.
Reliable waterproofing is required, as mineral wool absorbs moisture.

Basalt wool

I must say right away that this is the most suitable material for warming a frame building!

Basalt wool is made from molten rocks (basalt). It is used for sound and heat insulation of buildings, insulation of facades, roofs, ceilings and other structures.

Advantages of basalt wool:

good sound insulation and thermal insulation;
fire resistance;
strength;
vapor permeability (allows the walls to "breathe");
does not contain toxic substances;
prevents the formation of fungus and mold on the walls;
does not change its properties with temperature changes;
durability.

This material does not contain limestones and dolomites. That is why it is not attacked by rodents. Insulation fibers are located in a vertical and horizontal position, which is characterized by a high degree of rigidity. It does not accumulate moisture in itself, it has a water-repellent property.

However, this material also has its drawbacks. Well, where would we be without them! Cons of using basalt wool for warming a frame house:

High price.
Environmentally unsafe. In the process of making cotton wool, a phenol-based binder is used.

polyurethane foam

This is a synthetic insulation, consisting of polymer foam. Among positive characteristics polyurethane foam can be distinguished:

Excellent adhesion to most surfaces (concrete, brick, metal, etc.).
Mounting tools are not required for installation.
Protects pipes from corrosion.
Does not lose its quality properties under the influence of acids, alkalis, etc.

Liquid polystyrene foam allows you to fill cracks, seams and other empty spaces where it is not possible to lay other insulation.

The material must be isolated from direct sunlight, under their influence destruction occurs. For this, a special coating is used.
Foam is used only on warm and dry surfaces.
The material is not combustible, but smolders under the influence of fire. Therefore, it cannot be used for boiler rooms and baths.

Eternal questions of choice!.. What to pay special attention to when choosing a heater?

Properly insulating a frame house for winter living makes it durable, strong and reliable. For a frame house, materials with:

Low thermal conductivity is the amount of heat passing through the material. The lower this indicator, the longer the heat is retained inside the room.
Fire safety - resistance to high temperatures. For frame houses, it is better to use a heater, with a flammability brand - NG.
Low water absorption - the amount of moisture transmitted. The lower this indicator the better the quality. With high liquid absorption, thermal conductivity increases, the material freezes and loses its properties.
Do not shrink over time - the insulation must maintain its density. During shrinkage, gaps are formed through which cold air passes.
Environmental friendliness - should not cause harm to health and emit harmful substances.

So what kind of heater? better for a frame house?

A frame house is a wooden building, which, without insulation, is suitable only for seasonal (summer) living, otherwise, high-quality thermal insulation will be required. The vapor permeability of the material used must be higher than that of the wood from which the frame is made.

Most often, coniferous trees are chosen for frame buildings.

The best option for insulation for frame houses would be: basalt wool. As an extreme option - ecowool. And the least suitable - polystyrene foam, polyurethane foam and extruded polystyrene foam.

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How is the insulation of the house

Thermal insulation of a frame house is an important and difficult stage of construction. You need to fill every millimeter of free space so that cold air does not enter through it.

Wall insulation from the outside

There are two ways to install the frame house insulation. In the first case, thermal insulation is installed during the construction process, in the second - on the completed building.

In the first case, we lay the thermal insulation in a checkerboard pattern between the frame components. This method helps to prevent cold bridges in the thermal insulation layer, and also saves free space both inside and outside the building.

If insulation was required after the commissioning of the house, then we put a layer of thermal insulation on the surface of the facade. For this, the material is suitable in plates, the thickness of which is about 5 cm.

How do I install insulation?

I do it first preparatory work. I check the condition of the walls (if the house was already in operation), remove everything superfluous from the facade of the building (nails, screws, etc.). I close up all the cracks, irregularities mounting foam. If there are damp areas on the facade, I dry them with building hair dryer, I also eliminate the cause of these consequences.
When insulating a house during construction, I upholster the walls inside with chipboard. After I put vapor barrier film.

Next, I put in the heater. Each subsequent layer must overlap the junction of the previous one. The total number of layers depends on the region and its climate.

After finishing work with the insulation, I put a windproof membrane on top and fasten it with a stapler.

I'm doing a crate. It serves as a ventilation opening between the membrane and the cladding.
I attach chipboard to the crate.
I do facade cladding.

The process of internal insulation:

I treat the walls with an antiseptic. This will prevent the growth of fungus and mold. I clean from dirt and dust, and also remove screws, screws, nails, etc.
Then I put a layer of insulation.
I fix the vapor barrier, which prevents steam from entering the insulation. Smooth side to the insulation, rough side out.
I upholster the walls with drywall or other material.
I do finishing work.

To warming internal walls there are no serious requirements, a layer of waterproofing and vapor barrier is optional if it is mounted outside.

Foundation insulation

If the frame house is insulated, a mandatory foundation sheathing is required. This will prevent cold air from entering from below.

The process of insulation in the strip foundation

For insulation of the foundation, it is better to choose extruded polystyrene foam. It does not absorb moisture and performs a waterproofing function.

Work process:

I prepare the surface: I clean it from dirt, and I treat it with a primer.
I fix the insulation boards on the adhesive solution.
I apply another layer of adhesive solution, lay the reinforcing mesh, press it into the solution and level the surface.

I spend decorative trim plinth.

Insulation on a pile foundation

To begin with, I build a wall that will close the space above the house. This design comes in two versions:

A self-supporting wall of brick, block or stone that stands on its own foundation.
The construction of a frame made of wood or a profile along the perimeter of the foundation.

For work, either extruded polystyrene foam or sprayed polyurethane foam is suitable.

The warming process is as follows:

I install waterproofing - it protects the insulation from moisture.
I construct a grid of wood or metal for ground floor. For its construction, I build a crate with cells that should be smaller than a piece of insulation. This will provide greater tightness.
I put a heater on the frame - I press the insulation plates tightly against the frame. If joints are formed, I close them with foam. If the material is not moisture resistant, then I put an additional layer of waterproofing.

I carry out exterior finishing on insulation - for this I use siding, decorative PVC panels, stone, etc.

Basement insulation does not exclude floor insulation.

Ceiling insulation

I insulate the ceiling before installing the roof. Materials suitable for work: polystyrene foam, mineral wool.

Stages of work:

On the draft boards of the ceiling I stretch a vapor barrier film with zero permeability. The joints are overlapped by 10 cm, gluing self-adhesive tape or tape.
I put in a heater. This is done in a checkerboard pattern, with an overlap at the junction. The last layer of thermal insulation should cover the beams.

Waterproofing.

When laying the insulation, I make a ledge on the walls.

If the attic is not insulated, then the membrane film does not need to be stretched. In this case, I nail boards or plywood to the floor of the attic.
To insulate the ceiling inside the room, you will need to tie it up so that the structure holds. After installing the insulation, I sew on waterproofing, and then - a board or plywood.

How to insulate a cold attic

I carry out work on hardwood floor. For this:

I attach a vapor barrier to the surface of the false ceiling. It will protect not only the insulation itself from decay, but also the floor beams.
On the hemmed ceiling, between the beams, I lay the insulation.
From above I cover everything with waterproofing.
If there is no ventilated gap above the insulation, I stuff the spacer rails of the counter-lattice from above, and then I fix the attic floor boards.

Attic insulation

There are two ways to insulate the attic - laying thermal insulation on the roof or along the contour of the walls of the room. First, I put a waterproofing membrane. We fix it on the rafters, in front of the crate.

For roof roof we provide a ventilated gap. It will prevent the accumulation of condensate, and moisture will be removed by air currents. Installation of insulation in the attic does not differ from the thermal insulation of the roof or walls.

How to insulate the roof

If the attic is used as a living space, it will need to be insulated. The process of work is similar to the thermal insulation of the ceiling. The only difference is the order of the layers.

I put waterproofing on top of the insulation on the roof, which protects against adverse effects. environment.

How to insulate the floor

Floor insulation depends on the material of the foundation. Most often I use pile-screw.

Installation of thermal insulation:

Under the floor logs I install a frame, which will be the basis for insulation.

If the house is high above the ground, I stretch the waterproofing membrane under the joists and attach it with a furniture stapler. I make the membrane on the walls so that it is as tight as possible, and cold air does not enter.
I install a board on top of the waterproofing, its size is not more than 40-50 cm. This is enough so that the insulation does not fail. It is better to fill the board tightly so that there are no gaps.

If you can’t crawl under the floor of the house, I install a board under the logs, and then I fix the waterproofing membrane.
When the base is ready, I lay the insulation. This is done between the lags and as tightly as possible.

The thickness of the insulation depends on the region where the house is being built, its average value is 15 cm.
On top of the insulation, on the logs, I fix the vapor barrier membrane. It will protect from moisture, and also prevents the penetration of cold air. The seams are sealed with double sided tape.

I attach plywood or boards to the vapor barrier membrane, which will be the basis for finishing the floor.

Each layer of insulation must overlap the joints of the previous one.

Features and nuances of insulation

For proper and reliable thermal insulation, it is necessary to consider:

In a frame house, it is necessary to insulate the foundation, basement, walls, interfloor ceilings, roof, floor.
For insulation of the foundation and basement, polystyrene foam or polyurethane foam is suitable.
Insulation of walls, floors, roofs - mats made of basalt fiber or ecowool.
For the floor is ready-made options- SIP panels. Otherwise, any other material will do.
The thickness of the frame house insulation for winter living should be 150 mm for walls, 200 mm for floors, interior partitions- 100 mm, interfloor - 200 mm, roof - 300 mm. These are not the final dimensions, the layer can always be increased or decreased.
For wall insulation, it is necessary to choose a material that has less vapor permeability than bearing wall. This will enable the steam not to accumulate in the heat-insulating material, but to go outside.
With internal wall insulation, you should take care of the air exchange in the room. For this in plastic windows ventilation valves are installed.
Before work, the walls must be treated with an antiseptic primer. This will prevent the formation of mold and mildew.

In order for the crate for decorative trim to be durable, I install frame racks more often. After fixing the waterproof membrane to the frame, I knock it out with spacer rails (thickness 25-30 cm). They will provide space for the runoff of trapped water.

The outer wall of the frame house is represented by layers: inner lining, vapor barrier, insulation, frame, superdiffusion membrane, counter-lattice, facade decoration.

Inner wall: inner cladding, vapor barrier, frame, insulation, membrane, counter battens, outer cladding, rough plaster, plaster mesh, plaster.

Frame houses are very popular. They are built not only for summer cottages and summer holidays, but also for permanent residence. Therefore, you need to know how to properly and reliably insulate a frame house for winter living. The insulation must be protected from negative impact environment, because moisture, freezing and thawing can spoil the material, respectively, the life of the building will be significantly reduced.

Frame houses are distinguished not only by practicality, but also by attractive external indicators. This is an ideal option for those who want to acquire inexpensive, but comfortable housing. Today we will talk about the insulation of a frame house.

Do-it-yourself warming of a frame house

Design features

There are two main ways to build frame buildings:

frame-panel (buildings are assembled directly at the factory with ready-made elements);
frame-frame (all elements are prepared and assembled at the construction site).

In the section, the wall of the frame house is a multi-layer cake (this can be seen in the above image). It is also worth noting that the frames themselves can be of two types:

wooden;
metal.

For a long time, wood was the main building material, and no wonder - it is cheap, durable, weighs little, it is easy to process and has excellent thermal conductivity. Metal structures are erected from perforated steel profiles, mostly galvanized (this extends the service life to one hundred years).

Now - directly to the process of warming the frame house!

Stage one. The choice of material for the insulation of a frame house

After the supporting structure is ready, you need to start thermal insulation, and here, of course, there are a lot of questions. And the main one is the choice of a suitable material. There are quite a few of them, but the most popular are expanded polystyrene, basalt, eco- and glass wool, extruded polystyrene foam, materials that are sprayed or poured. It would seem that the choice is wide enough, but not all of the described heaters are suitable for a frame building.

For example, polystyrene foam with polystyrene will not work because if they are tightly laid in the interframe voids, then the structure itself will increase in volume or dry out in the future due to the natural properties of the tree, which causes cracks to form between the thermal insulator and the frame. It is quite obvious that thermal energy will escape through these cracks, and the insulation material itself will no longer be effective. Therefore, a thermal insulator suitable for us must be elastic: even if the shape of the frame changes, there will still be no gaps, since the vacated space will be filled with this material.

Now let's get down to specifics. Consider all the remaining materials, and you yourself will decide which one is more suitable (for price, quality, etc.).

Option number 1. Basalt wool for insulation of a frame house

Perhaps one of the most popular insulating materials. It has excellent noise and thermal insulation properties and is produced by melting mountain basalt. For this reason, the material is sometimes called stone wool.

Note! The temperature that it can withstand is +1000 C, so this is a real fireproof insulation.

The disadvantage of the material is that it absorbs moisture, due to which its main properties deteriorate over time. Therefore, when insulating a frame house, it is necessary to protect basalt wool with vapor and waterproofing materials. We also note that for the thermal insulation of walls it is necessary to use the material that is produced in the plates. It is desirable that it has a special marking indicating that it is for walls, otherwise, after a couple of years, the cotton wool will sit down and cracks will form in the wall (namely, in its upper part), through which cold air will penetrate.

Option number 2. Ecowool

A modern material made from cellulose. It differs from the previous version not only in appearance, but also in installation technology. For insulation with ecowool, a special machine is needed to mix the material with water droplets; then all this mixture is driven into the interframe space.

Water droplets are here for a reason - they stick together ecowool patches, thus forming a monolithic thermal insulator around the entire perimeter of the building. Therefore, there can be no cold bridges in such walls. Although it is possible to install ecowool without the use of special equipment, that is, dry. In this case, it is simply poured between the layers of walls and carefully rammed.

Ecowool is immune to high humidity emanating from the room, so no vapor barrier is needed in this case. The only drawback of the material is the high cost (not only it, but also installation work).

Option number 3. glass wool

Another very popular material that can be used in a frame house. It differs from basalt wool in that it is made from molten glass. It is characterized by excellent thermal insulation properties, fire safety and the fact that no toxic substances are released when exposed to fire.

Note! Glass wool is often produced in rolls. You should pay attention to the fact that it must have markings for the walls (this is necessary for a frame-type house).

Option number 4. Loose insulation

These include sawdust, expanded clay, slag and the like. At one time, this technology was a great success, since it was quite difficult to get good insulation material. But today bulk materials are practically not used. Everything is explained quite simply: their common drawback is that over time they shrink, and the thermal insulation properties are very doubtful.

Option number 5. glassine

Glassine is a thick paper treated with bitumen. The material is often used in construction to protect against wind and moisture, although in reality it is not necessary to do this - the material does not allow moisture that comes from the room to pass through, and it accumulates in the frame itself.

Note! We do not consider spraying with polyurethane foam, although it is very effective and can be applied to almost any surface. Firstly, he is afraid of direct sunlight, which reduces its service life by half. Secondly, its application requires special equipment, and this pleasure is not cheap. We are talking about the insulation of a frame house, which in itself implies minimizing costs.

Video - How to insulate a house

Stage two. Preparatory activities

First of all, it is necessary to understand a number important points, without which the thermal insulation of a frame building can easily turn into a waste of money. First, we note that it is necessary to think not only about the walls, since both the ceiling and the floor can also let in cold air! In addition, the insulation material should be qualitatively protected from moisture, using internal / external waterproofing for this. Finally, when performing installation work, it is necessary to leave small ventilation gaps between the walls and the insulation itself.

Before proceeding to installation work, thoroughly clean all work surfaces from dirt and dust. If protruding screws or nails are found, remove them. And if there are gaps between the frame elements of the building, then blow them with mounting foam. Dry all damp areas (if any) with a building hair dryer.

Note! If before that the outer surface of the walls was thermally insulated using waterproofing material, then its re-installation inside the building is no longer required, otherwise an excess amount of moisture will accumulate in the structure and, as a result, it will quickly collapse. Below is an instruction exclusively for internal insulation.

Stage three. waterproofing layer

Immediately make a reservation that the installation technology for all materials is approximately the same. First, measure all the walls of the frame, and then, in accordance with the calculations, cut the strips of the material that was chosen for waterproofing. Fasten the material to the posts using a mounting stapler so that the frame is completely sheathed.

Stage four. Installing a vapor barrier

Even if moisture-resistant materials are used for insulation, vapor barrier must still be performed. At first glance, these are unnecessary expenses, without which it is quite possible to do without. But the fact is that inside the frame there will be not only a heater, but also other elements (for example, the same tree), which still need protection from steam penetrating the walls from the room.

Scheme of laying a layer of vapor barrier when insulating a frame house

As a vapor barrier, both a special film and foamed polyethylene can be used. Fasten the selected material to the frame racks close to the thermal insulator using a mounting stapler. Sometimes insulation blocks are simply wrapped with this material, but in reality this is not necessary - as we have just noted, protection must be provided for all frame elements without exception.

The material is laid with an overlap of at least 10 centimeters, and all joints are carefully sealed with high-quality double-sided tape. Also, do not forget the fact that the thickness of the vapor barrier material in no way affects that of the insulating material.

Stage five. Insulation installation

If mineral wool is used for thermal insulation, before starting work, be sure to put on personal protective equipment - a respirator, gloves, goggles, special clothing. If you use foam (and this material, as we said, is not very suitable), then such security measures are not needed. When insulating a frame house, lay the material evenly between the frame posts, not forgetting the ventilation gaps required between the thermal insulator and the sheathing. For cutting mineral wool, you can use scissors or an ordinary knife, but for foam plastic you will need an electric jigsaw or a hacksaw with small teeth.

Note! Experts assure that it is more efficient to lay the insulation in two layers. So, first the first layer should be 10 centimeters thick, then a wooden crate is stuffed in a horizontal position, on top of which the second layer is laid (its thickness should already be 5 centimeters). Such a little "trick" will help to avoid the formation of cold bridges.

Lay a protective film over the insulation (if necessary, that is, if the house was not properly insulated from the outside). This will help ensure that the material will always be in a dry state, and moisture from the outside will not get in.

Note! For the ventilation gap, which has been mentioned more than once, stuff a wooden crate 3 centimeters thick.

After that, you can begin the installation of OSB-plates and decorative trim.

Stage six. We sew walls in a frame house

The procedure for warming the frame house is almost completed, it remains only to sew up all the walls from the inside. Often, OSB plates are used for this, although you can also use drywall sheets. Although we note that drywall is appropriate only in the case of a sufficiently even frame, otherwise it will take all forms of irregularities. On the contrary, OSB is much tougher, so it can be used to eliminate minor flaws. On top of one of them, start finishing.

Fastening OSB boards to strapping if there is a second floor

Two options for docking plates

About additional insulation

If what is described above is not enough, then you can additionally take care of external insulation (if, of course, it is not already there). If mineral wool was used inside, then from the outside lay a vapor barrier that will protect the material from condensed moisture. By the way, it can be not only a film, but also aluminium foil, although to be honest, this material is not the best.

As a windscreen, you can use the same OSB or plywood. The finish coating can serve as lining, siding or other suitable materials. That's all, good luck with your work and warm winters!

Video - Do-it-yourself warming of a frame house

Frame houses are especially popular today: they are easily and quickly assembled, do not require the arrangement of a reinforced and expensive foundation, are inexpensive, and therefore accessible to all segments of the population.

Nevertheless, many do not dare to build houses according to frame technology, as they consider them not warm enough, intended exclusively for summer living. However, this opinion is erroneous, because if you approach the insulation of a panel house wisely, you can feel comfortable in it at any time of the year. "But how to insulate a frame house for winter living?" - you ask. The answer to all questions related to the process of insulating such buildings will be our today's article.

Insulation options

First of all, you need to decide where you will install thermal insulation - outside the building or from the inside. To make the right decision, you should consider the features of each method of insulation.

The following facts speak in favor of the external location of thermal insulation:

In the process, the interior of the house does not suffer at all.

Wooden walls accumulate inside the heat that is in the room, and when the temperature drops, they give it back to the room, allowing you to save on heating.

It should also be noted that the insulation material installed outside the house, in addition to its main function, reliably protects the facade from the harmful effects of moisture, ultraviolet radiation and temperature fluctuations. As a result, the service life of the building is noticeably increased.

If you are thinking about how to insulate the walls in a frame house from the inside, pay attention to several disadvantages of this method:

For the interior, it will be necessary to dismantle all the decorative trim of the room, which, after the installation of thermal insulation, will have to be restored again. This leads to an increase in the timing of the work and to additional costs.

With internal insulation, flows of warm and cold air meet inside the wall, which leads to the accumulation of moisture in the room, as a result, the service life of wooden piers is significantly reduced.

The insulation layer located inside the building does not protect the facade from external factors. The wall goes through many cycles of freezing and thawing, as a result of which its structure is destroyed.

The choice of insulation material

When wondering how to insulate a frame house for winter living, it should be understood that when it comes to walls made of wood-shaving materials, the insulation must have the following qualities:

1. Environmental friendliness. The heat insulator must not release substances hazardous to humans into the air (even when heated).

2. Fire safety. Materials should be chosen that prevent the spread of fire along the walls of the building and do not emit much smoke in the event of a fire.

3. Low thermal conductivity.

4. Strength. must fit tightly between the walls and retain its original shape over time.

5. Low cost. The price of insulation should not exceed the cost of the building itself.

Expanded polystyrene and mineral wool are considered closest to the above requirements.

Styrofoam

The main advantages of polystyrene include its low weight, which is very important when it comes to frame structures. The material perfectly tolerates sudden changes in temperature, is not afraid of moisture and does not freeze.

The durability and low cost of foam plastic attract many homeowners, but along with the positive qualities, this insulation also has disadvantages.

These include:

Rapid flammability;

Susceptibility to mechanical and chemical damage;

Poor breathability (due to which the effect of a thermos is created in the house).

As an alternative, many use an improved type of foam plastic - foam plastic, which is resistant to various types of damage, but has a higher price tag.

Most often, this heater is installed with outer side Houses.

Mineral wool

The most popular material used as thermal insulation in frame houses is Isover mineral wool (insulation, the price of which, in comparison with similar materials, is quite low). On sale it is found in the form of rolls, mats and durable plates.

It is characterized by environmental friendliness, light weight, excellent heat and sound insulation performance, the ability to go around any irregularities, as well as a long service life.

The fire safety of a material depends entirely on its density. Products in the form of plates do not burn at all.

Choosing this heater for frame walls, it should be borne in mind that after a while the cotton wool can cake and sag, which leads to a violation of the integrity of the heat-insulating layer. Also, due attention must be paid to waterproofing, because, when wet, glass wool loses its original properties and becomes a favorable environment for mold.

Facade insulation

Let's take a closer look at how to insulate a frame house for winter living from the outside.

For these purposes, you can use the technology. It involves the installation of insulation between outer wall And decorative cladding. In this case, the thickness of the heat-insulating layer directly depends on climatic conditions in the region of residence (20 cm or more).

This method can also be used for internal wall insulation, and lining or drywall can be used as a finish.

Styrofoam insulation technology for external walls

1. The wall is cleaned of dirt and dust, all protrusions are smoothed out. The base is completely treated with a primer, and if cracks are found, they are covered with special adhesives.

2. Next, install vertical hangers. Nylon twine with loads is placed at a distance of 0.5 m from each other in order to identify and eliminate all irregularities (if the walls of the panel house are as smooth as possible, this stage can be skipped).

3. With the help of special glue, the foam boards are fixed on the walls. It is very important that the material fits as tightly as possible to the base.

4. A finishing material is installed over the heat-insulating layer.

Insulation of internal walls

Now let's figure out how to insulate a frame house with mineral wool.

The installation of insulation should be started only after the wall has been treated with antiseptic compounds.

Installation of thermal insulation includes the following works:

1. On the walls, a vapor-permeable one is placed so that its smooth side “looks” into the room.

2. Guide rails made of wood or metal are installed on top of the membrane using self-tapping screws. The distance between the rails must correspond to the width of the insulation material.

3. Installation of mineral wool can start both from above and from below the wall. If you use a rolled "Izover" (insulation, the price of which varies between 1500-2000 rubles per pack), installation should start from the ceiling. Mineral wool in mats is mounted starting from the floor. Fastening is carried out using dowels with a wide cap.

4. On top of the insulation is located For these purposes, you should choose vapor-permeable products that will contribute to the natural ventilation of the room. The film is fixed with wooden slats so that it is not too tight and does not sag. Next, the cladding is installed.

Conclusion

Now you know how to insulate a frame house for winter living. At the end of the topic, I would like to draw your attention to the fact that thermal insulation will not make the building suitable for living in the cold season - it is designed to keep warm air inside the room. Therefore, if you want your home to be warm and comfortable even in severe frosts, take care of its heating.

Frame house insulation- one of the most important stages of construction, since the insulation layer serves as the only barrier to the penetration of cold into the home, as well as an insulator from wind and moisture.

AND up to 80% all frame houses are insulated with mineral wool or materials based on it.

Mineral wool- This is a vapor-permeable insulation, which is the most popular material for thermal insulation. Minvata is distinguished by high sound insulation and environmental friendliness. Throughout the entire period of use, the mineral wool remains in its original form.

Advantages and disadvantages

Main advantages mineral wool:

Low thermal conductivity. This coefficient depends on the density of the mineral wool and can range from 0.032 to 0.039 W / (m * K). And the harder the wool, the less thermal conductivity it will have.
Durability. At correct installation insulation can last up to 70 years.
Ease of installation. The material is easy to cut with a knife and is convenient to process.
Fire safety. Mineral wool does not burn, but only melts under the influence of high temperatures, while not releasing harmful substances into the atmosphere.

To disadvantages insulation mineral wool include:

High cost.
The need to protect the material from moisture using a vapor and waterproofing film.
Installation of wool slabs must be carried out in a suit and a respirator to protect against harmful dust .

Types of mineral wool, their pros and cons

It happens 3 types:

Glass wool (raw materials are glass melts).
Stone (made from rocks).
Slag (made from slag).

Previously described advantages and disadvantages mineral wool are inherent in all its varieties, the following shows the distinctive pros and cons of each type.

glass wool- This is a fibrous insulation, which is one of the types of mineral wool. The raw materials for its manufacture are glass melts and binders - resins.

Advantages of glass wool:

Breathability.
Frost resistance.
Chemical resistance.
Resistant to mold and fungal attack.

Cons of insulation:

Short service life - up to 10 years.
Shrinkage up to 80%.

Stone (basalt) wool is a vapor-permeable insulation, which is one of the best sound and heat insulating materials. It is made from rocks with the addition of carbamide resins and bentonite clay.

Advantages of stone wool:

High density.
Minimum shrinkage (about 5%).
Resistant to decay, mold and mildew.

To disadvantages can be attributed to the high moisture absorption of stone wool.

Important: cotton wool is produced in slabs and rolls, it can have different density - from 30 to 100 kg / m³.

slag wool is made from blast-furnace slag, which is a waste of metallurgical industries.

Advantages of slag:

flexibility and elasticity (can be used for warming rounded surfaces).
Low cost.

Cons of insulation:

When water gets on the cotton wool, an acid is released that destroys the metal.
The material does not tolerate temperature extremes.

The table shows that stone wool has the very best technical indicators, plus it has minimal shrinkage. Slag wool is noticeably inferior to glass and stone wool in terms of thermal conductivity and has low sound insulation performance.

Frame house floor insulation technology

floor insulation technology based on the type of foundation of the house. Most frame structures are placed on a pile-screw foundation, but regardless of the type of foundation of the house, the first layer of floor insulation should be waterproofing.

If the house is located high from the ground and you can climb under it, then under the logs from below they are first attached with a stapler waterproofing film and then nail the bottom cladding boards.

They can be nailed close to each other or in increments up to 40 cm. They will keep the mineral wool slabs and the waterproofing film from falling down.

If you can’t crawl under the house, then boards are stuffed under the logs, and then a film is laid on top of the logs and boards from the inside. Mineral wool fits tightly between the lags on the film . Distance between lags should be 58-59 cm, because standard width wool slabs - 60 cm.

Average mineral wool layer thickness should be 15 cm, and the height of the lag is slightly less. Each new layer of wool must overlap the joints of the previous one and have an overlap of at least 20 cm.

Over mineral wool and lag attach a vapor barrier film, glue the joints with 2-sided tape. Sheets of plywood, OSB or boards are laid on the film, which will serve as the basis for fine finish floors.

Important: hydro and vapor barrier films are laid so that their edges go onto the walls. This will prevent moisture from getting between the wall and the floor of the frame house.

Scheme of wall insulation of a frame house with mineral wool

The walls in the frame house are insulated and outside and inside. The materials used for this are the same.

Insulation of external walls

wall insulation technology mineral wool outside includes several stages. First, the frame is sheathed on the outside with OSB boards with a distance between the boards of 2-3 mm. Then these slots are filled with mounting foam.

Outside, a waterproofing film is stretched over the plates to protect boards and a layer of mineral wool from precipitation, the joints of the films are double-sided tape.

From the inside, mineral wool slabs are inserted between the frame bars. The joint of the second layer of wool must overlap the joint of the first by 15-20 cm.

Advice: it is best to take wool slabs with a density of at least 35-50 kg / m³ to insulate the walls of a frame dwelling. Such a mineral wool will not sag and roll down.

After installing all insulation must be completed mounting foam all the cracks that appeared at the junctions of boards and beams.

Over a layer of mineral wool a vapor barrier film is stretched from the inside to protect the insulation from moisture coming from inside the room. Next, OSB sheets, plywood or boards are stuffed onto the film. Finally, the walls are finished.

Insulation of internal walls

Insulation of internal walls frame house is mainly carried out to provide sound insulation. To do this, you can use mineral wool, another type of insulation or special soundproof materials.

The technology of wall insulation inside is similar to insulation external walls, while hydro- and heat-insulating films may not apply.

Ceiling insulation with mineral wool

Ceiling insulation is one of the most important stages of home insulation technology. It is recommended to carry out it while the roof is not yet fully assembled, so that it does not interfere with the dense laying of mineral wool on top of the ceiling.

First, a vapor barrier film is attached to the ceiling beams from the inside. A board is nailed to it 2.5 cm thick, plywood sheet or OSB board. Further, wool slabs are attached from above according to the same rules as for wall and floor insulation.

Attention: mineral wool is placed completely along the entire ceiling, plus an overlap for the entire width of the walls.

If the attic is not used for living, then there is no need to lay membrane films. You can immediately sheathe it with plywood or board for ease of movement. In the case when it is not possible to insulate the ceiling from above, it is applied insulation from the inside. For this, mineral wool slabs are tied to the ceiling. Then a vapor barrier film and plywood sheets or boards are sewn.

Since warm air always rises, with illiterate insulation the ceiling from the room will leave a large amount of heat.

Insulation of the roof of a frame house

roof insulation technology similar to ceiling insulation with one exception. A waterproofing film must be laid on the insulation layer to protect the mineral wool from the external environment (rain, wind or snow).

After installation truss system a vapor barrier film is hemmed from below, on which hemming boards or plywood sheets are stuffed from the inside.

Then sheets of insulation are laid outside, covering them with a waterproofing film. On film stuffing the counter-lattice, then the crate under the roof and the roofing material itself.

Roof insulation it is more convenient to produce outside, so the cotton fibers will not fall on the face. If the roof is already assembled, then the insulation can be made from the inside. But this is less convenient, since it will be necessary to temporarily fix the mineral wool slabs before pulling the vapor barrier.

In conclusion, we can say that the insulation of a frame house with mineral wool will ensure minimal heat removal through the walls and cut costs for heating in winter period. Mineral wool as a heater provides natural ventilation in the house and is an excellent sound insulator from noise from the street.

See the video for the insulation scheme of a frame house with mineral wool:

Master class on warming the external walls of a frame house using URSA TERRA, see no video:

IN last years for the construction of houses, a frame structure is increasingly being chosen, which is significantly cheaper in cost compared to the construction of brick, block, or log walls. In addition, the process of mounting the frame takes much less time than raising the main walls. However, without proper insulation, it will be impossible to live in such a house. Therefore, the question of which insulation is best for a frame house becomes relevant for all potential owners of such housing.

Thermal insulation in frame buildings should not only provide comfortable temperature regime indoors, but at the same time make the house quiet. Thus, heaters must also have good soundproofing qualities. In addition, there are a number of important criteria that must be taken into account when choosing materials for the insulation of the "framework". All this will be discussed in the proposed publication.

The main criteria for choosing a heater for a frame house

The first step is to figure out what properties the insulation should have in order for it to be effective for heat and sound insulation of the frame walls of the house and as safe as possible for people living in the building.

So, it is necessary that the material meets the following requirements:

It should be well combined with the material of the frame, that is, with a wooden beam.
Optimal material - the most environmentally friendly
Insulation should be selected with the expectation of the longest possible service life, which should not be less than the service life of the wood chosen for the construction of the frame.
Moisture resistance, that is, the ability to resist moisture absorption (as a percentage of volume or mass), which can have a destructive effect on the material and drastically reduce its insulating qualities.
The coefficient of thermal conductivity - the lower it is, the better the insulation, since the main function of thermal insulation is to minimize heat loss.
Vapor permeability. Ideally, the material should be "breathable", that is, not prevent the release of water vapor. Only in this case, moisture will not accumulate in its structure and on the border between it and the wall surface, which becomes a favorable environment for various microflora - fungus, mold, etc., which can cause serious damage to the structure.
The insulation should not attract rodents, otherwise they will settle in it on permanent place residence, laying passages and equipping nests.
For frame houses, fire safety is of particular importance. Ideally, the material should be non-combustible, or at least as resistant to fire as possible.

Thermal insulation materials can be divided into three types according to the method of application - these are backfill, sprayed and slab (roll) installed between frame racks.

Filling heaters are expanded clay, foam glass, ecowool and sawdust.
Sprayed heat insulators - polyurethane foam and ecowool, applied by "wet" technology.
Plate or roll insulation - polystyrene foam various types, mineral wool, foam glass, linen, fibreboard and cork boards.

Each of these materials has its own characteristics and differs in technical and operational characteristics. To make a choice, it is necessary to consider each of them in more detail, both in terms of its main qualities, and from the standpoint of ease of use.

Used for thermal insulation of frame structures modern materials and traditional, familiar to builders for decades. Since all heaters were classified above into three groups according to the method of their application, their characteristics will be discussed further in accordance with this division.

Bulk type heaters

This type of material is used in construction for thermal insulation of walls, ceilings and floors along logs. These include expanded clay, granulated foam glass, ecowool and sawdust.

Expanded clay

Expanded clay is a natural material that has been used to insulate different parts of a building for a very long time, and has fully justified its purpose. It is produced in the form of gravel (granules) of different fractions, sand and crushed stone.

Expanded clay is used in construction not only as a backfill insulation, but also in combination with concrete mortar. The latter option is called expanded clay concrete and is most often used as an insulating layer under concrete screed floors of the first floor on the ground.

Expanded clay is produced from refractory clays, which undergo special heat treatment at high temperatures, are brought to melting, swelling and sintering of the material. As a result of these processes, expanded clay granules acquire a porous structure, which provides the material with low thermal conductivity. Expanded clay has the following characteristics:

High level of thermal insulation. Expanded clay is made from clay, which is one of the "warm" natural materials, and the air structure of the granules helps to reduce the thermal conductivity of clay.
It has a low weight, which is ten times lower than the mass of concrete. Therefore, it is suitable for warming light buildings, as it does not heavy load on the foundation and wooden formwork into which it is backfilled.
The material is absolutely environmentally friendly - it does not contain any synthetic and toxic substances.
Expanded clay is inert to chemical and biological influences.
The material is vapor-permeable, that is, it is “breathable”, which does not allow the walls to become waterlogged.
Moisture resistance of the material is important - it does not absorb and does not retain water.
Expanded clay will not create any problems for people prone to allergic reactions.
The material calmly, without losing its insulating properties, withstands very low winter and high summer temperatures.
The heater is not flammable. It does not support combustion, does not emit smoke, even if it gets into an open fire, so it can be called a fireproof material.
Rodents and insects do not live in expanded clay, which makes this material indispensable for warming a private house. From small-fraction expanded clay, they even often make an embankment under the house, as it helps protect the building from mice.
Long service life. It is difficult to talk about any specific time periods, but the frame house itself will survive such a heater for sure.

Expanded clay has its own letter and number marking from M300 to M700, but unlike other building materials, it does not indicate strength, but the bulk density of the insulation, which depends on its fraction.

Expanded clay sand has a grain fraction of 0.13 ÷ 5.0 mm, it is used for backfilling as a heater in walls of relatively small thickness, up to 50 mm.
Expanded clay gravel has a fraction of 5 ÷ 50 mm, and it is excellent for the manufacture of expanded clay concrete.
Expanded clay crushed stone differs from gravel in that it has an angular shape. It is obtained by crushing or rejecting the gravel mass. The size of the crushed stone fraction can vary from 5 to 40 mm.

The use of expanded clay for insulating frame walls can be considered a completely justified option, since this material combines excellent performance and ease of installation - they can isolate any structure in shape. It should be noted that this material is suitable not only for filling wooden walls into frames, but also for three-layer brick or reinforced concrete enclosing structures.

The disadvantage is not too outstanding thermal insulation performance against the background of other materials. If expanded clay is chosen as a heater, then in order to achieve the desired effect, the thickness of its layer must be at least 200 ÷ 300 mm, or it is used in combination with other heat-insulating materials.

Foam glass in granules

In addition to the well-known expanded clay, foam glass produced in granules is used in approximately the same way.

Foam glass is not used as widely as expanded clay, although it has higher thermal insulation performance. Apparently, the lack of information about this material affects. This material has been produced at Russian enterprises since the 30s of the XX century, and it is intended specifically for the insulation of buildings. Foam glass can be purchased in bulk or in the form of plates. Loose material isolate the building structure departments - it is poured into the space of the floors along the logs, attic floors, as well as in the cavity of the frame walls.

In addition, granulated foam glass is mixed with concrete for arranging insulation under the screed.

The material is an environmentally friendly product, as sand and glass cullet are used for its manufacture. The raw material is crushed to a powder, then mixed with carbon. The last component contributes to the foaming of the mixture and gas formation - this process makes the material porous, filled with air and light. Granules are made in special furnaces with rotating chambers, into which preforms - pellets are filled in advance. The fraction of granules can be different - large, having a size of 8 ÷ 20 mm, medium - 5 ÷ 7 mm and fine 1.5 ÷ 5 mm. The main characteristics of this material are presented in the comparative table at the end of the publication.

Expanded clay prices

expanded clay

Foam glass is a moisture-resistant, solid material resistant to chemical and biological influences. In addition, it does not collect or emit dust, and does not contain substances to which allergy sufferers are sensitive. The hardness of the material and the absence of any nutrients protects it from rodents.

The disadvantages of bulk foam glass can only be attributed to its high cost. True, if you closely calculate the "accounting" of insulation and compare it with cheaper expanded clay, then it's still worth seeing which material will be more profitable.

Loose foam glass is laid in the same way as expanded clay.

Ecowool (dry laying)

This material can be attributed to relative innovations in the field of insulation, but it is gradually gaining popularity due to its merits. To insulate frame structures, ecowool is used in two versions - in dry form, filling in the cavity, or according to the "wet" technology - spraying on the surface. The second method requires the use of special equipment, while the first one can be done on your own.

Ecowool is a mixture of paper waste and cellulose fibers, which occupy about 80% of the volume of the total mass of the insulation. In addition, the composition of the material includes a natural antiseptic - boric acid, which takes up to 12%, as well as a flame retardant - sodium tetraborate - 8%. These substances increase the resistance of the insulation to external influences.

Ecowool goes on sale in hermetically sealed polyethylene bags, in loose form, therefore, when choosing a dry method of wall insulation, it can be used immediately.

Ecowool has the following characteristic features:

Low thermal conductivity. Cellulose, of which this insulation mainly consists, has all the qualities of wood, which has been used for the construction of residential buildings for hundreds of years precisely because of the natural warmth of the material.
The lightness of the material, even when moistened, allows it to be used for thermal insulation of frame structures.
This is an environmentally friendly insulation that does not emit harmful fumes throughout the entire period of operation.
Pronounced vapor permeability. Ecowool does not retain moisture in its structure, therefore it does not require vapor barrier, which allows you to save some money when building a house.
Ecowool is resistant to biological influences, as it contains an antiseptic additive, as well as to chemicals.
This insulation can absorb moisture even up to 20% of the total mass, but it does not lose its heat-insulating qualities. Here it must be said that moisture does not linger in the structure, since the material is "breathable".
Resistance to low temperatures, that is, frost resistance of cotton wool.
Despite the flame retardant included in the insulation, the material belongs to the G2 combustibility group, that is, it is low-flammable and self-extinguishing. That is, smoldering of the material cannot be ruled out, but it will not become a flame spreader.
Mice and insects do not start in ecowool, as it contains boric acid.
It attracts in it a long service life and the possibility of recycling.

When dry laying ecowool in the wall, its consumption is 45÷70 kg/m³. Before work, the material is fluffed with an electric drill. At the same time, it should be borne in mind that over time, dry cotton wool will sag by about 15%, so the insulation must be well tamped. It is also important to know that when fluffing this material, there will be a large amount of dust and debris in the room, so it is best to work on the street or in outbuildings, and the respiratory tract must be protected by wearing a respirator.

Wall insulation with dry ecowool is carried out in two ways - backfilling and blowing.

Backfilling is carried out manually, into a gradually erected formwork, and blowing - into a space completely closed by a sheathing fixed on the frame racks. In order to blow in, special equipment is needed, into which ecowool is poured, fluffed up, and then, under pressure, it is fed into the empty space of the frame sheathed on both sides through drilled holes.

The stages of work on backfilling ecowool will be discussed below.

Sawdust as filling insulation for frame walls

Sawdust cannot be called a popular insulation, although they have been used for this purpose since time immemorial. We can say that this natural material was replaced by modern synthetic insulation. However, there are craftsmen who to this day do not refuse sawdust and shavings, successfully insulating the walls of frame houses with them.

It is believed that for the first time sawdust began to be used for warming frame buildings in Finland, where the climate is more severe than in most regions of Russia, and it should be noted that the material fully justified its purpose. But we must not forget that sawdust has not only advantages, but also its disadvantages, which you also need to know about.

To achieve the desired thermal insulation effect, it is necessary to choose hard wood sawdust - these are beech, maple, hornbeam, oak, alder and maybe pine, the moisture content of which should be no more than 20% of the total mass.

The disadvantages of sawdust used for insulation in its pure form, without processing them with special compounds, include their following features:

Flammability. Dry sawdust quickly ignites and burns, spreading fire to nearby combustible materials.
In a layer of sawdust, various insects and rodents feel good.
With high humidity, sawdust can begin to rot, and mold can also form on them.
When moistened, sawdust can shrink significantly, in addition, their thermal conductivity increases, which reduces the heat-insulating effect.

Taking into account all the features of this natural insulating material, the master builders developed mixtures in which there are additives that level out all the shortcomings of sawdust.

For the manufacture of such a warming mixture, in addition to sawdust, the following materials will be required:

Cement, clay, lime or cement are the binding components of the mass.
Boric acid or copper sulphate are antiseptic substances.

Clay or cement is used in the sawdust mass if it is prepared to insulate the attic floor, sawdust is mixed with lime for floors, and a sawdust-gypsum mixture is usually used for walls.

The process of manufacturing a mixture for warming frame walls can be considered in the following proportions, based on its mixing in a construction wheelbarrow with a volume of 150 liters:

Sawdust is poured into the container, about ⅔ of the total volume, that is, about 100 liters. (0.1 m³).
Gypsum is added to the sawdust, it will take two liter jars. If the attic floor is insulated, clay is taken instead of gypsum, and lime for floors.
Further, in a bucket of water for 10 liters, 100 ml of boric acid or copper sulfate is diluted.
Then the ready, well-mixed aqueous solution is poured into a wheelbarrow with sawdust and one of the selected binder additives, after which all components must be mixed well. It must be remembered here that when using gypsum as a binder additive, the mixture must be poured into the formwork immediately after mixing, since gypsum, when mixed with water, remains in working condition for a few minutes. Therefore, a large amount of sawdust-gypsum mass cannot be kneaded. The thickness of the insulation layer of this material must be at least 150÷180 mm. After filling the mixture, it needs to be compacted only lightly, since after the binder has hardened, it should have an air-filled structure.

How the formwork is built will be discussed below, in the section on installation work.

This table presents a more accurate composition of sawdust-gypsum mixture, laid 150 mm thick for insulation of a house with a certain wall surface area.

Parameter name	Numerical indicators
Wall area of the house, (m²)	80	90	100	120	150
Number of sawdust, (in bags)	176	198	220	264	330
The amount of gypsum, (kg)	264	297	330	396	495
The amount of copper sulfate or boric acid, (kg)	35.2	39.6	44	52.8	66

Loose type insulation

The method of wall insulation with any backfill insulation material is almost identical, however, for each of them there are some nuances. It should be noted that there is nothing complicated in warming the frame structure, and the work can be easily done independently:

The first step is to sheathe the frame with plywood (OSB) or other material from the outside or inside. It is best to clad the structure from the street, especially in cases where it is planned to use wooden lining for cladding the house. Having fixed the boards from the front side of the house, you can calmly, slowly, work from the inside of the room, without fear of rain.
The next stage of the insulation process is to fix the strips of plywood or boards from the inside of the room from the floor, first to a height of 500 ÷ 800 mm. It will turn out a kind of formwork, into which the insulation will be poured, and then the insulation will be compacted.

When the cavity is filled with ecowool, the lining from the inside is increased higher. The newly formed space is again filled with ecowool and this continues until the wall is completely insulated. Experts advise leaving the formwork fixed for two to three days. During this time, the cotton fibers will bond well with each other and shrink a little, freeing up part of the space that must also be filled with cotton.

If sawdust is used for insulation, then the lower part of the formwork is left in place, and its following elements are fixed on top of it - plywood or boards, after which the space is also filled with insulation.
When the walls are insulated with ecowool, after filling all the free space with it, the formwork plywood is often removed, and from the inside of the house the frame can be sheathed with drywall or other facing material.
If another filling material is used, then drywall or finishing sheathing will have to be fixed on top of the formwork material.
If additional wall insulation is required, thermal insulation material, it is recommended to mount from the outside of the building, in front of the decorative cladding.
On the front side, the insulation material must be tightened with a hydro-windproof membrane.
When using sawdust or ecowool for backfilling the wall frame, it is recommended to use kraft paper as a waterproofing material. It is laid inside the formwork, spreading on the bottom and walls. After filling the insulation, to a height of approximately 200 ÷ 300 mm, the next sheet of waterproofing is laid on it, then the insulation - and so on.

Spray-on insulation

If you plan to use sprayed materials for insulation, then you immediately need to prepare for the extra costs of their installation, since special equipment is used for it. Moreover, installations for spraying polyurethane foam differ from those intended for working with ecowool.

Ecowool (spraying)

The application of ecowool, in addition to backfilling in the cavity, is also carried out by a “wet” or adhesive method. The fact is that cellulose contains a natural adhesive - lignin, and when the raw material is moistened, ecowool fibers acquire adhesive ability.

Ecowool prices

This quality of the material allows it to be used for insulation of vertical surfaces. Wall insulation is done in two ways:

Spraying the material between the racks of the frame after sheathing it on the outside or inside with plywood (OSB) or boards, and then leveling the wool over the racks using a special roller;

The frame is sheathed with plywood (OSB) on both sides, and then the empty space is filled with ecowool through holes drilled in the cladding, 55÷60 mm in size.

Both spraying and blowing ecowool into the space between the frame racks is carried out under pressure, which is created using special equipment.

In the capacity of the device there are special mechanical "mixers" for fluffing, whipping ecowool and moisturizing it throughout the volume.

Dry ecowool is filled into the bunker, where it is moistened and mixed, and then it enters the corrugated sleeve, through which it is sprayed onto the surface under pressure or blown into the sheathed frame.

If the filling of the wall will occur through a hole, then first it is drilled in the plywood sheathing. Then, a rubber seal and a pipe are installed in the resulting hole, through which the fluffy and moistened ecowool is fed.

When cotton wool is sprayed onto the surface and after it is leveled, the insulation is closed with a windproof material, after which you can proceed to the outer skin of the frame.

Today you can find simpler sets of equipment for blowing and spraying ecowool, for their independent use. However, when using such a device, ecowool will have to be fluffed manually before filling it, and this is additional time and a large amount of dust, which in a professional device is collected in a special dust bag.

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