We do the drainage of water in a private house with our own hands. Features of the sewerage system in a private house

It is not enough to bring water into the house, after use it needs to be put somewhere. It’s hard to take out buckets, and it’s somehow pointless: water comes into the house by itself, and then it is taken out on foot. At least elementary sewerage is needed for a house or a summer residence. The option to simply remove the pipe from the house and drain the water to the ground or a small hole will not suit everyone. It doesn't look very good, and an unpleasant smell from this puddle or pit is almost guaranteed. What to do?
So, we will need: an old metal or plastic barrel, a certain amount of sewer pipes (at least 6 meters, preferably PVC 110mm), a tee, a branch, about 0.5 cubic meters of medium fraction crushed stone, a shovel and a few hours of our precious time.
We choose a place for our drainage well. Preferably, no closer than 5 meters from the house, no closer than 20-25 meters from a well or well and downstream of them downstream of groundwater. We dig a hole with a diameter greater than the diameter of the barrel by at least 0.5 m (diameter of a standard barrel is 0.6 m, height 0.9 m, volume 0.2 cubic meters) and a depth of about 1.5 m (preferably deeper). We make holes in the walls of the barrel, if metal, then with a grinder, if plastic, then with a hacksaw for wood with a small tooth. We make a hole for the incoming sewer pipe in the wall, not far from the bottom of the barrel. We fill at least 20 cm of gravel at the bottom of the pit and put the barrel upside down, orienting the hole under the pipe towards the house.
Now you need to dig a trench under the sewer pipe, leading it to the place you need. The pipe must be laid with a slope of at least 3 mm per meter towards the barrel. It can be brought into the house either under the foundation, or through a hole in it. There is no need to insulate the pipe, the water flowing through it will warm it perfectly. Not far from the barrel, we put a tee with a small piece of pipe coming out above the ground to circulate air inside the barrel and let air out of the sewer when it is filled from the house (so that the air from the barrel does not go into your house). We lead the pipe into the barrel through the hole made for this. We fill the gap between the barrel and the wall of the pit with gravel to the entire height of the barrel. At the bottom of the barrel, it is advisable to put some non-rotting material (a piece of old slate is perfect). We fill both the trench and the pit with soil, carefully tamping it down. We make a hole in the floor or wall of the house, finally leading the sewer into the house. Further at your discretion. On a piece of pipe sticking out of the ground near a buried barrel, you can put on a plastic fungus, which is difficult, but can be found in stores.
And now the nuances.
This is an exclusively drainage sewer for the house, it will not cope with fecal effluents, it cannot be cleaned or serviced in any way, and it is not intended for this. This sewer can be used for drains from the kitchen or from the bath. The same device has drainage wells from a septic tank.
The microclimate for bacteria that process wastewater depends on the depth of the pit. Ideally, the depth of the pit should be: the depth of soil freezing + the height of the barrel + the height of the crushed stone cushion (for the Leningrad region: 1.2m + 0.9m + 0.2m = 2.3m). But digging so deep is hard and not necessary. Drains also heat the barrel.

If the soil at the installation site of the sewer is clayey, and the water from the barrel leaves slowly, then the sewer for the house can be slightly improved. To do this, you need to lay another sewer, and preferably a drainage pipe. This pipe may lead water to a drainage ditch at the boundary of the site, or it may not lead anywhere, ending in a dead end. The task of this pipe is to remove excess water from the barrel, thus increasing the area of water absorption into the soil (irrigation area). The pipe is laid in a trench on a crushed stone pillow and is also covered with crushed stone, and then with soil. The depth of the trench is greater than that of the supply pipe, and the slope is directed away from the barrel. Naturally, the sewer pipe will have to be spoiled with a certain number of holes in the lower part to improve the flow of water, making it look like a drainage pipe. This is not required if the pipe is led into a drainage ditch.

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To be honest, I'm a little surprised that someone's sewer can freeze. Sewer pipes, in principle, cannot freeze, there ...

Reviews (38) on "The simplest drainage sewage system for a summer residence."

thanks for the useful article and adequate answers. tomorrow I’ll start doing it. I hope the pipe will not freeze in our Transbaikalia. Of course, I agree with you that you need to make a significant slope.

Depends on the distance and features of the problem being solved. It is better to make the 110th PVC, it is more reliable, although more expensive. At distances up to 5 (five) meters, you can make the 50th (fifty dollars), but, preferably, also PVC (not always available in stores) - as more durable and frost-resistant. This is still an external sewage system, not an internal one.

1. And what can happen to the 50th pipe? Silt up.-get fat-zamylitsya? Or will it crash hard?
2. Red (I mean for external wiring) or gray (for internal wiring), since it will be used only in summer? The store said that it is better to look for black (Soviet) -PVD -polyethylene high pressure. What do you say?
3. I have a plot with a slope. Along the fence just down the slope. I realized that it is better to dig in.
4. Soil - loam. Where are they usually sent? rain water from the roof? To another hole?

Answers Vladimir.
1. And not only that, Vladimir, especially in loam, even on the surface. For example, it can be bent by swelling of the soil so that the slope in some area is broken. The consequences are the same, it will clog in general ... If it doesn’t break.
This also happens with a 110-pipe, but much less often, of course, subject to the elementary laying rules.
2. For "internal wiring" it will definitely not work. Need PVC for outdoor sewerage. For internal sewerage usually use PP. You won't dig it up for the winter...
A “black pipe” is usually a HDPE pipe, not a HDPE pipe (I haven’t heard anything about HDPE pipes until now, maybe I don’t have much experience). In principle, you can do it if you find it, but there may be problems with joining pipes with bends (turns) and leaving the house. If you are not a "specialist", then it is better not to experiment.
4. Rain runoff is usually directed to the drainage system around the house, and it brings them to the drainage ditch. Other pipes are used there - "drainage", corrugated plastic pipes with perforation and protection with geotextile.
In loamy soil for house drains, it is imperative to make at least a small irrigation field (small drainage system just for that). Because loamy soils do not absorb water well. On the other hand, if you are “on arrivals”, then the usual crushed stone dressing around the barrel (simplified drainage system) should be enough for a long time.

Of course, you can bring rainwater into this sewer system, but ... Then there will be a high probability of damage to the pipes by autumn and spring waters during “zero crossings”, because you do not control the volume and composition (maybe already with ice) of these waters. Therefore, they make drainage pipes perforated, i.e. "leaky" so that the water can go away by itself. And if drainage pipes are laid instead of sewer pipes, then these holes will quickly become clogged with house drains (“silt up, get fat”), and will not work. This is not to mention possible unpleasant odors along all 20 meters of the pipe. So better sewerage separately, and rainwater drainage separately.

Thanks for answers. I will think.
And the last question:
It is impossible for me to go outside through the basement (floor slabs and 60 cm concrete blocks on the foundation).
I will just make holes in the side of the log house and then go on with external wiring. Accordingly, I do not want to make holes at 110. I will go out 50. 110 PVC will go along the ground.
And how to connect the exit through the log house and PVC-110 according to outer wall Houses? This is three meters in a straight line and all five with turns.

I didn't quite understand the question, Vladimir. Inside the house, you put in fifty kopecks for the inside, i.e. PP pipe. You let her out into the street through the wall of the log house, just carefully “foam” the gaps, there should be no drafts. And then the transition to the 110th PVC, and you are already driving it. From the exit from the log house to the 110th PVC, you can start up the same fifty kopecks, only not far. For example, lower it with turns down to the foundation (it’s hard to say without imagining a possible route), then an oblique tee with a revision, just in case, into which to insert an eccentric transition from fifty dollars to a hundred. And I went 110th.
In principle, it is permissible to put fifty kopecks on the street “in plain sight” (if I understand correctly, this is the problem), but it is desirable that this is also a PVC pipe, otherwise there may be the same problems as “under the fence”. Yes, and you need to fasten it well and carefully, making gaps for thermal expansion. Fifty PVC PVC is sold, but not everywhere, you have to look.
And the general advice, just in case, is to avoid right angles. Make them, if necessary, prefabricated, for example, 45 plus 45, and inserts between them. Right angles clog well, but are difficult to clean.

Yes, you got it right. It’s just that not a single seller in stores (he went around about five) did not meet PVC-fifty. I will search further. From the exit from the log house to the location of the 110 pipe, I need to walk five fifty meters along the wall (check in the garage from below). We need to find PVC.
But the old Soviet black pipes that were laid earlier in apartments (50) are not PVC by any chance? They were still standing cisterns hung above the head

No, Vladimir, “old Soviet black pipes” are polypropylene, very rarely low-pressure polyethylene, it’s just that the dye was different. Look in specialized stores, at construction sites, where they sell professional 4 and 6-meter sewer pipes, it is possible without sockets. I'll show you how to connect them, it's not difficult. The Internet has tips for everything. Look in the store at: Ufa, Oktyabrya Avenue, 97, All Instruments store. They promise three-meter 50 mm PVC for 202 rubles, however, for electricians. In extreme cases, you can also put 50 mm internal PP pipes, you just need to look after them. Check in the spring.

Thanks for the advice!
I know this store and have been there. This is an online store. All goods must be ordered and received upon arrival of the goods. I will definitely check out their website.
Just a passing question: I will finally find a fifty-kopeck piece of PVC pipe. But all sorts of turns and stuff also need PVC? This is probably unrealistic. I'll look online and on their website.
Thanks again for your attention.

Hello again, Vladimir.
I ask your forgiveness. Having “surfed” the Internet in search of a fifty-kopeck piece of PVC, I really discovered that these pipes are only in St. Petersburg and Moscow, and not always of local production. I live almost in St. Petersburg. Therefore, well, put fifty dollars on PP, just look not for standard-cheap PP 1.8 mm, but 2.0 or 2.2 mm, at least some margin of safety. In principle, in non-responsible sections of the sewerage system, a fifty-kopeck piece of PP is installed without thinking about the consequences. You just have to keep an eye on this site, as I already wrote, mainly in the spring, at the opening of the summer season.
The PVC I found in Ufa are unlikely to fit, they are for protection electrical wires. Their wall thickness is only 1.5 mm. Why the search engine gave them to me as a sewer (!), Is a mystery to me. So do from home to the fence fifty dollars of PP. This is not possible, but if it is very necessary, then ...

Thank you for this article for the tips. I just had a situation that I bought myself a multistage pump. The plumber came and installed it. Everything worked like clockwork, no where not dug. When I got tired the next day and looked into the mine, there was water there and the water almost flooded the pump. And if I had a water outlet, then this would not have happened. You will need to redo your mine.

If there is no centralized sewerage near the house, then the arrangement can be considered as a solution to the problem. cesspool. In any house where there is a supply of hot and cold water supply, there is a problem of collecting and discharging sewage.

A cesspool is the easiest sewer option in a private or country house, which you can do with your own hands.

Where should the cesspool be located?

To start, need to decide on a location on which the cesspool system will be equipped.

directly on the site adjacent to a private or country house;
arrangement is possible at a distance of at least 10 meters from the foundation of a residential building and other buildings on the backyard territory and to structures located in the neighborhood;

Important! This requirement is based on the fact that with a closer installation of an unsealed pit without pumping out, the foundations of nearby buildings can be destroyed, as well as their flooding.

the distance from the pit to the fence is also regulated and must be at least one meter;
depth should not be more than 3 meters. When choosing, you need to take into account the depth of the passage of groundwater;
the pit must be at a certain distance (25 meters) from drinking wells.

Given distance depends on the type of soil in the backyard:

With clay soil - no closer than 20 meters;
With loamy soil - no closer than 30 meters;
With sandy and sandy soil - a cesspool cannot be installed closer than 50 meters from the well.

Do-it-yourself cesspool device

There are two main types of pit arrangement:

sealed;
plain without a bottom.

The option of arranging sewerage in a country or private house is determined by the location of the territory, the daily amount of wastewater and the material capabilities of the owner of the site:

if the daily amount of sewage is not more than one cubic meter, it is possible to build a simple system without a bottom and without pumping. In a pit of this type, effluents partially go into the ground, in which they are cleaned by anaerobic bacteria. An example of this cesspool is the classic rural toilet;
with a large amount of wastewater (more than a cubic meter), the construction of a sealed structure is required, which needs to be pumped out from time to time.

This requirement is explained by the fact that in the absence of a bottom in the pit, waste water passes into the ground and cleaning is carried out by microorganisms located in the depths of the earth. But their cleaning capabilities are not unlimited.

With large amounts of wastewater, microorganisms cannot cope with water purification. In this case, wastewater will begin to pollute the adjacent area and it is possible that they will pass into the water-bearing soil layers with further contamination of the drinking well.

If you need to dispose of a large amount of wastewater, you can consider the arrangement of a septic tank with filtration fields.

Do-it-yourself ordinary sewer

The simplest waste system is done like this:

digging a pit up to two meters deep, two meters wide and up to three meters long;
the walls of the earth are laid or fixed;
a layer of crushed stone is poured down;
a protective cover with a cover is installed on top.

The main advantages of a pit without a bottom:

ease of operation;
low cost of construction and operation;
simple and quick DIY construction.

Disadvantages of a pit without a bottom:

groundwater level must be below the level of the sewage system;
not suitable for sewerage of a large amount of sewage water;
environmentally unsafe;
possible unscheduled filling due to rainwater;
has an unpleasant odor.

Sealed waste pit

A sealed sewage system is a sealed container where sewer water is pumped out through pipes. As the tank fills, sewage water must be pumped out with a special machine.

The main advantages of a sealed system:

the installation site does not depend on the type of soil on the site;
does not depend on the passage of groundwater;
environmentally friendly, sewage water does not enter the environment.

Cons of sealed design:

there is a smell if the drive is made in the form of a well;
monthly costs (you need to periodically call a sewage truck for pumping);
relatively high construction cost.

What to build a drain pit with your own hands

Consider different types and ways to design drain systems that you can do yourself. They are conditionally divided into permanent and temporary.

From car tires

If you need a drain system for a toilet in a country house at minimal cost, you can make it yourself using old car tires.

This is a quick and budget option for the construction of a sewer pit. The design is pretty simple. A pit is being made, where old tires are stacked one on top of the other. A layer of crushed stone is poured on the bottom of the pit, if desired, the tires are sealed with a clay lock.

Advantages:

if necessary, easily restored;
durability;
speed, simplicity and low cost of construction.

Disadvantages:

tires rot over time;
possibility negative impact on the environment with a high load on the structure;
rapid siltation with insufficient cleaning and pumping out, as a result, useful area is lost.

From concrete rings

This is another way to quickly build a drain system. Its design is similar to a well. Rings are stacked on top of each other. The connections between them, if desired, are sealed with a cement screed.

By design, a sewer pit made of concrete rings refers more to hermetic structures. That's why you need to pump it regularly. Although there is an option to install a septic tank from concrete rings.

Main advantages:

convenience of the device of a protective cover with the hatch;
durability;
the possibility of building with your own hands;
relatively low cost.

Disadvantages:

the possibility of an unpleasant odor from the ventilation pipes;
the need for periodic pumping;
laborious installation.

Drainage pit made of bricks

This is the most successful and best option if you need a drain system for a toilet or bath in a country house.

Advantages:

ease of construction - almost any summer resident can handle bricklaying for a drain pit;
environmental friendliness - the contents of the drain structure are periodically pumped out by a sewage machine.

Disadvantages:

siltation. It is possible to prevent silting with the help of constant pumping out of the liquid in the storage tank;
relatively a short time service (up to 20 years), as a result of the destruction of bricks in adverse conditions of the drain system;
Periodically, an unpleasant odor is likely to form. The use of various preparations that accelerate the processes of waste decomposition and timely pumping out of the drive can help to cope with this.

Construction of a brick pit

First you need to decide on the installation site of the drain pit, observing all the rules and taking into account ease of use.

We choose a design. Given the purpose, a drain brick pit can be rectangular, square or round.

We calculate the required volume, dimensions and prepare the pit for the pit.

With a rectangular design, we tilt the bottom towards the installation of the hatch. At the bottom of the pit we pour a sand cushion, with a layer of 20 cm and fill it cement mortar. You can take a finished reinforced concrete slab of the required size. A cement screed is made on top.

We do wall laying. The optimal thickness of the walls is 30 cm. It is advisable to lay the walls in a checkerboard pattern in half a brick. Laying in a quarter of a brick is possible.

Then, when the walls are ready, you need to treat them with bituminous mastic or make a clay castle from the outside for better sealing. If necessary, then plaster the inner surface.

Installation of the hatch and ceiling

Then, when the base of the drain pit is ready, we install a ceiling with a hatch. Overlap is required not less than 50 cm close the hole around the perimeter.

In the role of overlap, concrete slabs are chosen or logs are carefully laid. When arranging the cesspool floor, it is necessary to provide a location for the hatch. The hatch is made in the size of 70 cm.

On top of the stele overlap, waterproofing from a film or roofing felt. We cover the waterproofing with a layer of slag or soil measuring 0.5 m.

Attention! To protect against the appearance of a smell from the drain pit and its freezing, the hatch into the pit is installed double. Top cover located on the surface of the earth, and the other at the level of the overlap. Appeared space in the bow is filled thermal insulation materials(slag, expanded clay, polystyrene, etc.).

Sewer pit from a barrel

This is an excellent option for arranging do-it-yourself water runoff with natural cleaning of the cesspool with small amounts of runoff (up to 1 cubic meter).

Barrel preparation:

we use a 200 liter barrel, best of all from a material that does not corrode, we make holes in the wall in a checkerboard pattern for drainage with a drill or grinder. It is desirable to make holes with a distance of 15-25 centimeters;
we tightly fasten a pipe to the bottom of the barrel for connecting a drain pipe. To ensure sealing, you can use silicone sealants. We process the connection area of the pipe with mastic;
we wrap the barrel with geotextile and firmly fasten it with twine. This is necessary to ensure that the tank is protected from soil and other foreign particles entering its structure while maintaining normal drainage.

Installation of a cesspool sewer system:

we make a trench and lay sewer pipes, certainly with a slope;
we prepare a pit with a depth and size slightly higher than the depth of the barrel;
down the pit we fall asleep gravel or gravel with a layer of 20 cm;
we put a barrel on this pillow and connect the drain pipe;
the resulting space between the walls of the pit and the container is filled with gravel or gravel;
We connect the sewer pipe to the installed pipe.

Now the sewer pit for your bath is ready. You can also make your own drain hole for the toilet.

As an option for arranging a home sewer system, you can consider installing a cesspool concrete drain pit.

Stages of construction of a concrete pit:

Using this technology, you can also make a drain hole for the toilet with your own hands.

Summarizing

There are quite a few options to build a drain cesspool yourself. Choosing a specific solution, taking into account specific conditions and material possibilities. You can also consider installing a septic tank or buying a ready-made kit for arranging a drain pit.

Many owners of private houses want to have a good Russian bathhouse on their site. But before proceeding with its construction, it is necessary to carefully consider and competently organize the drainage system. Currently, there are several ways to remove waste water from a bath that do not require large financial investments and supply to the general city sewer system. A well-made drain in a washing bath will help ensure a long service life for floors and foundations, as well as prevent the appearance of mold and fungi on the walls.

Drainage device in the washing room at the bath

Drainage in the bath can be carried out in various ways, which depend on the type of floors in the washing room of the bath. There are wooden leaking and non-leaking, as well as concrete. For the first case, it is necessary to arrange a special reservoir for the flow of water, from which it will be poured into the sewer. And for the second option, the floor is laid in the bath with a slope, and special gutters and ladders for the drain are mounted. Any drainage system in the bath should be arranged before laying the floors.

When choosing the creation of an external sewage bath, it is necessary to take into account factors such as:

The intensity of the operation of the bath;
building dimensions;
Soil type and depth of its freezing;
Sewer system (its presence or absence);
Is it possible to connect to the central system.

The above aspects are among the most important in determining the drainage.

For a small bathhouse, where one or two people will bathe several times a month, you should not make a complicated sewer. It will be enough to dig an ordinary drain hole or a small pit under the bath.

The type of soil is of great importance when creating a drainage system. For sandy soils that absorb water well, it is recommended to do drainage well. In clay soils, it is better to equip a drain pit, from which drains will need to be periodically pumped out. It is also necessary to take into account the degree of freezing of the earth, since the water in the pipes that will be laid above the required mark will simply freeze and the plastic will crack.

If you do not want the water from the bath to simply flow out and soak into the ground, you must use a septic tank with a sump, where the drains will settle and be cleaned, and then distributed through irrigation pipes. The most complex and expensive way to remove water is to build a well with biological filters, which consist of slag, broken bricks and rubble. The peculiarity of this method is that when waste water enters the well, its walls are gradually covered with a layer of silt, in which microorganisms that purify water live.

Advantages and disadvantages of each external drainage system in the bath

Consider different types drainage, as well as their characteristics, advantages and disadvantages.

This is a sealed pit made of reinforced concrete, in which water from the bath accumulates. When it is full, it is pumped out using a special device.

Advantages:

The simplicity of the device;
Does not require maintenance;
Low cost.

Disadvantages:

Drainage well

Such a water drainage system is a pit with a filtrate that purifies wastewater. The filter can be sand, broken brick, crushed stone, slag, etc.

Advantages:

Low cost;
Ease of construction.

The disadvantage of the system is the regular replacement of the filtrate or its cleaning. And this procedure requires a lot of physical effort.

Pit

Such a system consists of a hole that is dug immediately under the floor of the washing room. At the bottom of the pit there is a natural filtrate, which passes through itself wastewater, which gradually drains into the depths of the soil.

Advantages:

There is no need to run a pipeline;
Low cost device.

Flaw:

This is a system that consists of a septic tank and pipes emanating from it, which remove water purified from impurities. Drainage systems are installed at a certain slope so that the water quickly leaves and is completely absorbed into the ground.

Advantages:

Works offline;
It can be used to create a sewerage system with several points for receiving waste water;
It can even clean "black" drains if an anaerobic septic tank is installed.

Disadvantages:

Alternatively, you can connect to the central sewer. Then there will be no need to arrange external facilities for the reception and processing of waste effluents. But here you have to pay for the services of specialists and draw up various permits.

The internal drainage system of the bath

The washing room inside the bath is equipped taking into account the future drain and the selected floors. Drainage must be carried out in such a way that moisture does not remain in the room, which will contribute to the development of fungi and mold.

Leaking wood floors got the most wide use, since they are the maximum simple option bath drains. The boards are laid with gaps of about 3-4 mm, so that through the cracks the water from the washing room goes into the pit unhindered. Such floors are collapsible so that high-quality drying of the boards can be carried out. In this case, the floor is arranged without a slope for draining, since water will soak into the ground under the bath.
Non-leaking floors are arranged with an angle of inclination to the drain, through which the waste water will flow into the water collector, and then into the sewer. Also, water can drain into any selected drainage system.
Concrete floors are easy to care for, durable and reliable, so they are perfect for arranging a washing room in a bath. Such floors are also made with a slope towards the drain, so that water can quickly and freely go into the selected sewer system.

Preparation for the construction of a drainage system: drawings and diagrams of various drains

Scheme of the device of a wooden leaking floor with a drain. Must be done before laying floors.

If a dry steam room is provided in the bath, and there is a shower in the washing room, then it is necessary to provide for a drain in the steam room.

In the sewerage of the bath, where water will be collected from several rooms, it is imperative to install a riser with a ventilation valve.

If the steam room and the washing room are in different rooms, then the gutter for draining water is laid under the ceiling between them.

Under the wooden floor, it is necessary to make a concrete base with a slope to the central part, where the gutter will go, joining the sewer.

Also, instead of concrete, you can lay a pallet made of stainless or galvanized steel on the floor under the flooring.

Video: device for a galvanized pan for draining water under the wooden floor of the bath

When installing self-leveling floors on which tiles will be laid, it is necessary to observe the slope, where a ladder is installed at the lowest point to receive water, which is connected to the sewer.

For the installation of a sewer system inside the bath, it is necessary to use modern durable plastic pipes that have a long service life, and therefore will serve long years. They are not afraid of moisture, they are not subject to corrosion, like ordinary metal or cast iron ones, and they are also easily and simply assembled on their own without the involvement of specialists. PVC pipes are excellent for internal sewerage in a bath, they are malleable in any processing, and can also be with or without a socket. Service life more than 50 years.
Cast iron pipes are too expensive, heavy, and also inconvenient to work with.
Asbestos-cement pipes are the cheapest, but they often have many defects. Also, for the installation of a non-pressure drain, pipes with a smooth inner surface of the walls are required, and asbestos cement products often have rough inner walls with recesses.

Types of plastic pipes:

PVC pipes (polyvinyl chloride);
PVCH (pipes made of chlorinated polyvinyl chloride);
PP (polypropylene products);
HDPE (pipes made of low pressure polyethylene);
Corrugated polyethylene pipes.

Any of the above types of pipes can be used for internal device plum in the bath. The diameter of the product for the main line is taken based on the future intensity of operation of the bath and the number of drain points. For an ordinary bath with a steam room, a washing room and a toilet, pipes with a diameter of 10-11 cm are recommended. If plumbing is not installed, then pipes with a diameter of 5 cm will be enough to drain water.

Calculation of material for creating a drainage system and tools

For the installation of internal sewerage in the washing room, we will need PVC pipes gray, as well as joints and adapters.

The number of pipes depends on the length of the internal drain system.
We will also need tees with a size and an angle of 110–110–90 ° - two pieces (highlighted in red in the diagram);
Elbow adapter - 90° - three pieces (highlighted in black in the diagram).
Horizontal sewer pipes - Ø11 cm;
Vertical pipes for the device of water drain receivers - Ø11 or 5 cm.
For pipe connection different diameters you will need adapters from 5 to 11 cm.
For the external sewerage of the bath, you will need orange pipes (PVC).

For work we need:

Spade bayonet (special equipment);
Building level;
Bulgarian with a cutting wheel;
Sand;
Cement;
Rubble.

Step-by-step instructions with a photo for the manufacture of various drain designs in the bath

Before considering the drain system in the washing room, it must be said that the entire sewer internal system in the bath is interconnected and consists of three waste water receivers.

The trapik for the drain is a siphon, which has a water seal that does not let the washing room into the room. unpleasant odors, and it also serves as a grate that does not let large debris into the sewer.

In the photo we can see the slope of the tiled floor to the drain for the drain.

A drain drain must be installed in the bath rooms.

Video: trapika functioning system with a water seal in the washing room of the bath

First, we will lay the sewer pipes. To do this, we dig trenches.
At points A and B, the depth of the trench should be approximately 50-60 centimeters in relation to the ground level (outside the foundation). If the height of the base is 30-40 centimeters, then the depth of the trench will be 80-100 cm in relation to the top of the foundation.
From points A and B, we gradually dig ditches so that the slope is about 2 centimeters per 1 linear meter. We pour sand about 5-10 cm thick at the bottom of the trench and tamp it well, observing the necessary slope.
We fill the foundation and make a hole for the sewer pipe.
Drain pipes are installed vertically (1 and 2 for traps). To do this, we drive sticks about 1 meter long into the bottom of the trench, and then we tie plums to them. We install vertical pipes, making a small margin of length. In the process of installing the floor and installing the ladders, we will shorten them.
We install the sewerage system according to the specified scheme.

In the construction industry, the depth of laying sewer pipes in the southern regions is about 70 cm from the ground surface. In the middle lane, the depth varies from 90 to 120 cm, and in the north it is at least 150–180 cm.

In order for the drains not to freeze, the tubes must be insulated with several layers of special 10 mm polyethylene foam.

Under one end of the pipe we dig a shallow hole for a drain. Now we need to try to drain a certain amount of water in order to check the correctness of the slope of the pipe. We check all the pipes one by one.

We make an external sewerage system with our own hands

If the volume of waste water does not exceed 700 liters. per week, then we can use old truck wheels as a septic tank. We can calculate the water absorption area of a septic tank, given that the degree of water absorption of 1 sq / m of sandy soil is about 100 l / day, mixed sandy soil is about 50 l / day, loamy soil is about 20 l / day. Depending on the type of soil and its water absorption, we calculate how many wheels we need.

We dig a hole 2x2 meters and a depth of about 2.3 - 2.5 meters, depending on the level at which the pipe will exit. We fill the bottom with sand 10–15 cm, and rubble on top - 10–15 cm.
In the pit, we tightly stack the wheels vertically on top of each other about 5-7 pieces. The top point should turn out so that the drain pipe can definitely enter it.
In loamy soil, it will be enough to install 7 wheels. If the site has sandy or sandy soil, then 5 pieces are enough.
We cover the wheels with a metal or plastic durable cover with a hole made in it. We insert a ventilation pipe into it, through which air will flow, ensuring the vital activity of microorganisms that process wastewater.
We carry out a test drain and bury the entire structure.

How to make a drain well for drainage: a guide

The drain pit can be made of a plastic or metal tank, reinforced concrete rings or red brick.

We choose a place in the lowest place of the site so that the water from the washing room leaves by gravity. In order for it to be convenient to pump out water from the well and the car could freely drive up to it, you need to choose a place with a convenient entrance.
Digging a hole with an excavator. If there is no equipment, then you will have to dig manually, and this is a lengthy process. We monitor the condition of the walls of the pit (they should not crumble). We can dig a hole in a square, rectangular or round shape.
We make the bottom with a slight slope to the hatch for easy cleaning of the tank. We fill up the sand 15 cm and concrete the bottom. Instead of concreting, you can simply lay a reinforced concrete slab of the desired shape and size.
We lay out the brick walls. You can take a used red brick. For masonry, we make a solution of clay and sand. In one of the walls during the masonry process, we install an inlet pipe for water.
Since brick walls are waterproof, we need to treat them with a special sealant. To do this, take bituminous mastic or other similar material.
We mount the ceiling from reinforced concrete slab. The upper part of the well on all sides should be blocked by about 30 cm. To pump out water, we make a hole above the pit section where the slope is located. Overlapping is arranged in several steps. First, we make formwork from boards and pour a concrete layer of 5–7 cm. We put reinforcement on top and pour the next layer of mortar. Let the concrete dry for a few days.
We put a metal hatch, and cover the concrete floor with polyethylene and fill it with soil, so that only the hatch is visible on the surface.

How to place a drainage system with a pit

Under the floor of the washing room we dig a hole 2x2 meters and a depth of at least 1 meter. At a height of 10-15 centimeters from the floor level, we install a pipe that will connect the pit with outdoor system sewerage. We observe a slope of 1 centimeter per 1 linear meter.
At the bottom we put a layer of gravel, broken brick, gravel or expanded clay, and pour a layer of sand on top. We strengthen the walls with brick, large-wave slate or natural stone.
On top of the pit, we lay logs, and we already mount a wooden floor on them.
So that the waste water can easily go straight into the pit, the boards are laid at a distance from each other. Such a wooden floor can not be attached to the logs so that it can be easily removed and dried.

The second version of the pit device is a water collector, from which effluents will be poured into a septic tank or sewer when a certain mark is reached. Basically, this method of drainage is used when arranging leaking floors.

How to install a ground filter for a bath

For the device of such a system, a separate septic tank will be required, which will serve as a sump and distribution well. Drainage pipes will depart from it in different directions, designed to distribute treated effluents around the entire perimeter of the yard. You can buy a septic tank, or you can make it yourself from large plastic or metal containers.

A reinforced concrete septic tank or a round brickwork structure functions perfectly.

Drainage system rules:

The length of the pipe should be no more than 25 meters;
Laying depth of at least 1.5 meters;
The distance between the pipes is not less than 1.5 meters;
The width of the trench for drainage is at least 50 cm, maximum 1 meter.

We dig a trench, taking into account the angle of inclination of about 1.5 °. We check the angle with the usual building level.
To the bottom of the trench clay soil pour sand 10 cm and gravel 10 cm on top. In loamy soils, the pipe will need to be wrapped with filter material to prevent silting. On sandy soil we make a sand and crushed stone pillow, and we wrap the pipes with geotextiles.
Pour 10 cm gravel on top of the drainage, and then fill the ditch with earth.
The filtration system must be ventilated, so at the end of the drainage pipe we install a pipe about 50 cm high, and put a safety valve on top.

Video: how to bring the drain system to the bath

Properly made drain in the washing room of the bath and its other premises guarantees a long service life of this facility. It will help protect the building from the harmful effects of moisture and prevent pollution of the territory by waste water. Even in small baths it is necessary to equip the drainage system, so this process must be approached with full seriousness and responsibility.

The decision to make a cesspool yourself remains an ideal choice for a situation with the inability to connect to the central sewer. Such a structure solves the problem of ensuring the disposal of waste and sewage for a private house. The choice of this option is simple installation, easy maintenance and small financial investments necessary for construction and further operation.

The very device of this simplest and most ancient sewer system is a recess dug and equipped with walls in the ground, designed to collect and partially process wastewater. Partially filtered liquid enters the soil below, and the accumulated residue must be periodically removed so as not to overload the container.

A light wooden structure is installed above the recess. After filling the pit, the upper part is removed, and the remaining space is covered with earth. The accumulated elements go through the process of decay and turn into compost. Fruit trees planted here will thrive in a fertilized area. And you can use the new building.

But this method is clearly insufficient for the needs of a large building in which many people constantly live. In this case, for large volumes of waste, modern structures with walls made of various materials. Most often for these purposes is used:

brick is a great masonry option even for beginners;
concrete rings, the delivery and laying of which requires special equipment;
cost-effective way of arranging from tires;
metal barrels, preventing shedding of side surfaces;
the use of ready-made plastic barrels has a long service life - more than 40 years.

Mention should be made of the convenience and modern version- the use of septic tanks. These products are made in multi- and single-chamber modifications. The most complete and deep cleaning of waste occurs in models equipped with several chambers. Purified water is suitable for watering vegetable gardens.

The cesspool device involves the installation of two types - sealed and filtering. In the first case, there is an accumulation of effluents until the time of their pumping. The second one provides for the presence of holes in the walls for partial penetration of waste into the ground. To carry out filtration around the tank, it will be necessary to lay a gravel-sand layer with a thickness of at least 15 cm.

According to the requirements of sanitary safety, there must be at least 1 m of soil from the bottom of the infiltrating type structure to the groundwater table.

The purpose of such a recess is drains from storm sewer and drainage.

With a large amount of household waste, there is always a risk of soil contamination, which can only be prevented by arranging a sealed system.

Principles of design and preparation of sewage pits

A carefully designed project and competent planning will help to avoid problems during the construction process in terms of existing norms and rules. First of all, attention should be paid to the most important points:

Safe in terms of sanitary requirements location.
The choice of the type of system depending on the specifics of the site and housing construction.
Decide on the dimensions of the recess.
Plan the production technology in advance.
Prepare appropriate materials.

Each of the items in the above list has its own nuances, the implementation of which is very important for safe and reliable operation.

The place where the structure will be located must necessarily be remote from fences, residential buildings, wells. From the tank with drinking water, for example, the distance is maintained at least 25 meters, and from the house - starting from 5 meters.
With existing relief irregularities placement at the bottom of the site should be avoided. Flooding during periods of heavy rains and snowmelt threatens to contaminate the soil and groundwater. Construction technology is selected from the characteristics of the soil in the surrounding area.
Dimensions are primarily calculated taking into account the number of residents. For one person, a daily volume of 0.5-2.0 cubic meters is planned. m of drains. The need to pay for each call of equipment, with the help of which the cesspool is pumped out after it is filled, requires one more rule to be followed - to make the volume of the structure a multiple of the capacity of the sewage machine.
The task of diverting drains is solved using the technology of an eternal cesspool. The design feature of this method is the construction of two containers, interconnected by a special branch pipe under a certain slope. After filling the first tank, the liquid flows into the second. This technique allows you to significantly increase the area of \u200b\u200bsoil for water drainage, and only large fractions and feces will accumulate in the main pit.
A do-it-yourself cesspool of a hermetic design is a recess with a concreted bottom. The main advantage of such a device is the complete isolation of sewage and the absence of any odors on the site and in the house itself. But relative disadvantage is fast filling and frequent pumping, especially in the presence of washing and dishwashers, intensive use of the bathroom and shower.

A sloppy approach to planning and execution installation work threatens with the following consequences:

unpleasant "aroma" inside the building and on the site;
freezing of water residues inside sewers;
penetration of harmful substances into the soil.

Careful execution will create a favorable and comfortable environment for living and recreation. You only need to clean the cesspools on time and periodically monitor the condition of the system.

Consider in more detail the features of construction different types such a sewer system.

Arrangement of a brick cesspool

as far as possible from any buildings;
take into account the direction of groundwater flow;
provide access for the sewer.

Sizes are always an individual choice. There is no doubt that a deeper device will require less frequent cleaning, but one should never forget the level of groundwater. Closer than 30 cm to them, you can not place the bottom.

How to make a cesspool if the water is close to its location?

In this case, there is simply no alternative to the sealed type of device. In the case of a shallow depth, you can increase the length dimensions or use a multi-tank design. But it is not recommended to dig more than 3 meters even in dry ground.

The standard option for a residential building with 4-5 people living in it is a depth and diameter of 3 meters.

Buy only red ceramic brick. Silicate and cinder blocks will get wet pretty quickly and will be unusable. The best material is burnt brick, rejected for construction because of its irregular shape.

The construction process consists of several main stages:

Digging a pit is the most time-consuming procedure. With manual work, two people can dig a 1.5x3 m hole in sandy soil within a couple of days. But clay soil will bring a lot of difficulties and require the use of hired workers or an excavator. The shape for the pit is usually chosen in the form of a glass with a slight expansion towards the top, giving additional reliability.
The foundation must begin with the process of backfilling the soil with gravel and sand. This layer is poured with concrete with preliminary laying of reinforcement. Usually the thickness of this layer is 15-20 cm and depends on the diameter of the pit.
Wall laying is done in half a brick with a size, and in brick - with a large diameter. The proportion of cement and sand in the mortar is usually 1:3 and 1:4. After completion of this stage, bituminous mastic is applied to the walls.
A ready-made pancake with a hatch hole of the appropriate size is used, as well as a self-poured lid.
At the end, the overlap is covered with a layer of earth with the location of the manhole cover slightly above ground level.

Video of arranging a cesspool made of bricks:

Over time, any structure becomes clogged. Used for cleaning various ways. Biologics for cesspools remain one of the best practices ensuring accelerated decomposition of waste and increasing the service life of such sewer systems.

How to make a concrete cesspool

The use of such elements will be an ideal option for the safety of soil and plants located near the place where wastewater is stored.

In the usual version, 2-3 concrete rings with a diameter of 1.5 m and a meter height will be required. If a family of 3-4 people lives in the house, then to pump out the total volume of the structure of 4.5 cubic meters. m will have to call a special vehicle on average once a quarter.

How to make a cesspool in a private house from concrete rings - the sequence of installation work:

under the required slope below the freezing point of the soil, drain pipes leaving the building are laid and insulated;
a pit is dug with a width exceeding the diameter of the rings by 80-90 cm. A pillow of 30 cm of sand, fragments of brick or gravel is poured into the bottom of the recess;
a crane or winch will be needed to lower the concrete elements;
first place the ring with the bottom using building level to avoid distortions vertically and horizontally;
a waterproofing layer of bituminous mastic is applied to the inner surface and joints;
free space is filled up and carefully compacted;
a slab of reinforced concrete and a metal or polymer cover is attached.

There is a high probability of accumulation of methane and sulfuric gas released during decay in the tank. For their output, a ventilation pipe with a diameter of 100 mm is installed.

How to make a concrete cesspool video:

Instructions for the manufacture of sealed and filtration cesspools

After choosing the area for the location of the drain tank and having all the calculations, you can start excavation. With the help of earth-moving equipment or manually, a pit of the required dimensions is prepared. Usually, an excavator is involved for such events, but the specifics of the site do not always allow special equipment to drive to the required place.

In such a situation, you can apply the old tried and tested method - install one ring in place and start picking up soil from under the walls with a shovel. It is important to control the level of the product. After leveling the upper cut of the element with the level of the soil, another ring is set and the sampling of the earth continues in a similar way.

To make a cesspool yourself, you will need to prepare materials for the walls, a formwork board and prepare the following components:

sand and cement desired brand for mixing the solution;
crushed stone and rubble for the manufacture of a filtration layer;
rebar or rod useful for arranging the cover;
corner or suitable hatch metal with frame;
waterproofing materials;
suitable container and buckets for mortar;
mason's tools;
plumb line, building cord and level;
set of bayonet and shovel.

When working on a large scale, you can rent or ask neighbors for a concrete mixer.

Decoration of installation sites for cesspools

It will not be difficult to disguise the sewer from prying eyes because of the layer of earth with which it is covered. After that, there are many ways to decorate - sowing a lawn, laying out flower beds, planting shrubs. sewer manholes ennobled with stone and wooden elements. The owner of the site can show all his imagination and creative ingenuity in this process.

The photos below show examples of beautiful decor.

An excellent example of the manufacture of a luxurious lid, which is equipped with a septic tank for cesspools, can be viewed on the video:

How much does it cost to make a cesspool on the site

When determining construction costs sewer collector it should be assumed that the arrangement of a small capacity is not economically feasible. It is best to start calculating the total cost for devices from 3000 liters. Several major factors affect your financial investment. To make a cesspool whose price matches your capabilities, you should analyze the following parameters:

the cost of materials for the selected type of device;
prices for the services of specialists involved in the construction.

For example, let's take a cesspool structure of two rings of one and a half meters in diameter. A neck is supplied with these elements, the presence of which will allow you to completely hide the main part below the ground level.

If you order a turnkey installation, then the calculation includes:

A complete set of materials, including concrete preparation components, waterproofing and a manhole.
Delivery depending on the distance to the installation site.
Digging followed by backfilling of the pit.
Mounting measures for the installation of rings.
Concreting the bottom of the well.

At the moment, all these stages will cost the customer 30,900 rubles.

When performing such work on their own, professional builders recommend paying attention to the following points:

to fill a three-cube tank, about one and a half cubic meters of soil will be required. You can leave it, and take out the rest immediately after arranging the pit;
having concreted the bottom, let the mixture stand for 10-12 days to achieve optimal strength;
brickwork can not be done very smoothly. It is hidden from view and performs the main function - to restrain the soil from shedding;
for formwork, it is best to take a profiled sheet or board;
bayoneting the mixture used to fill the ceiling contributes to a good pouring of the reinforcing cage;
carefully tamp and level the soil around the entire perimeter and on top of the well.

An extensive choice of designs allows you to build a device according to financial capabilities and needs. One of the main conditions is the observance of sanitary standards in terms of protection against environmental pollution.

For the improvement of a private house, cottages and any other residential buildings, the equipment of drainage and sewage systems is considered the main thing. An integral element of waste disposal is precisely the drain pit, the construction of which can be done independently. In this article, we will talk in detail about the features of building drain pits, determine the main criteria for choosing a location for their creation, and also get acquainted with the basic requirements for this structure on the site.

How to choose the right place for building a drain pit with your own hands

Do-it-yourself construction of a drain pit begins with the choice of a place for the future structure. In order for waste disposal to be as convenient, safe and of high quality as possible, it is necessary to take into account the following nuances:

landscape type;
placement of groundwater;
location of drinking water wells nearby;
remoteness from surrounding buildings at least 6 meters;
from the drain pit to the fence must be at least 2 meters, etc.

Before the beginning construction works, it is very important to get acquainted with the nature of the soil on the ground, as well as accurately determine the occurrence of groundwater, since the distance from the bottom of the pit to them should be more than 1 meter. When determining the territory for the drain pit, it is very important to take into account all sanitary standards so that harmful, toxic fumes do not harm either the homeowners or others.

Determination of the main parameters of the drain pit. Depth and Diameter

After choosing a suitable place for a cesspool, you should determine its main parameters. The volume, depth and diameter of the structure for this purpose is guided by the following criteria:

the main material used in the work;
the number of residents in the house;
construction type.

Often the choice of consumers stops at a septic tank made of plastic cups. This means that the volume of the drain pit is affected by the number of containers used. The septic tank installation technique requires free space on the sides of the structure (about 25-30 cm), which should be covered with earth or clay. In this case, you should pay attention to the condition of the earthen cushion on which plastic vessels will be installed. It is very important that one of the tanks is located above the other, due to which the drains will move freely in the right direction.

For example, for drain pits with concrete rings inside, experts recommend preparing an ellipse-type pit, with a diameter of 1.5 - 1.7 m.

For drain pits made of brick or concrete, in the process of determining its main parameters, the volume that the material occupies must be taken into account.

The second criterion by which the dimensions of the drain pit are calculated is the number of people living in the house. The indicators of the volume of water that one person uses per day on average are taken into account. Given these indicators, it is still worth taking all the numbers with a margin. So, the formula for calculating the volume of the drain pit: the indicators of depth, width and length are multiplied by each other. As for the depth of such a structure, it should not be less than 180 cm.

The dimensions of the drain pits directly depend on the type of construction chosen. The table highlights the main ones.

Types of drain pits by design features
Absorbing pits without a bottom	Suitable for use in places with a daily waste volume of not more than 1 cubic meter. More suitable for summer use. Differs in installation economy.
Sealed containers	The safest type for the environment. The installation of such drain pits requires easy access to the construction of sewage equipment.
Storage septic tanks	We have already mentioned this type above. Differs in comfort and manufacturability in use on any private sites. There are single-chamber and multi-chamber. They require regular use of biological products to combat sewage.

Features of the drain pit for summer use

The presence of a sewerage system is simply necessary to drain waste from a sauna, bath, shower, toilet, kitchen, etc. Drainage pits are classified not only relatively design features, as well as seasonal characteristics. In addition, there is also a third criterion - this is the type of material used for construction. So, according to seasonal characteristics, drain pits are distinguished mainly for summer use and all-weather structures. Summer type structures are built from improvised materials, such as:

wooden boards;
old car tires;
plastic and metal barrels, etc.

Do-it-yourself drain pit made of wooden tires

For the equipment of a string pit for seasonal use, such material as wood is perfect. For beginners in construction work, the process of mounting and installing from boards will not be as difficult as with other materials. So, for the construction of a summer cesspool, the following materials and tools should be prepared:

digging shovel;
wooden boards and nails;
tape measure, building level;
wooden supports (pillars);
metal pipes (as stiffeners);
crushed stone;
moisture resistant polymeric materials;
hammer;
grinder, etc.

It should be borne in mind that wood absorbs moisture well, even when processing the material with moisture-resistant agents, this type of drain structure will not last more than 10 years.

Step 1 We prepare the pit using a shovel.

Step 2. We create formwork from boards according to the intended dimensions (height is about 1.5 m);

Step 3. Install the supports ( wooden bars) and connect them with downed wooden shields;

Step 4. We strengthen the structure with spacers;

Step 5 metal pipes provide stiffener designs.

Step 6. Cover the hole.

As a polymeric material, as an additional protection against moisture, professionals recommend the use of polyurethane foam.

Features of a do-it-yourself drain pit for all-weather use

To create drain pits for all-weather use with their own hands, materials such as brick, concrete rings, etc. are used. Such structures differ from temporary ones in depth, shelf life, wastewater absorption volume, etc. All-weather cesspools suggest the presence of an inspection hatch. Next, we will consider the processes of building a brick drain pit and creating a structure from concrete rings, we will analyze in more detail the advantages and disadvantages of each of the options.

Do-it-yourself features of a drain pit made of concrete rings

Drainage pits made of concrete rings are a reliable structure that, when correct installation can last over a century. The process of working on such a design requires the master to work with welding machine. A number of advantages of cesspools made of concrete rings include:

resistance to toxic, chemical effects of stock substances;
long service life;
water resistance of concrete material;
placement of groundwater, for a concrete structure, practically does not matter.

The disadvantages of this type of cesspools include the fact that working with the structure requires the use of special equipment. This series can be supplemented by the fact that this work process is laborious and increased level pollution.

Drainage pits made of concrete rings are divided into two types. The first are structures with a bottom, the second are pits without a bottom. An all-weather, and actually harmless option, is considered to be a design with a bottom, since in this case there is no unpleasant smell, no danger to the environment, and as a result, other characteristic functional shortcomings.

According to the above criteria for choosing a place for construction, we determine the territory, after which we can proceed to the choice of the main material - concrete rings. It is best to use ready-made rings, which can be ordered from specialized suppliers. At this stage, it is worth immediately taking care of the equipment (crane), with the help of which the concrete rings will be placed in the pit of the stock structure.

As a rule, construction work begins with the preparation of the bottom of the pit. At this stage, a concrete solution is used. To prepare the filling mass, we use 1 part of cement and 6 parts of crushed stone. The following installation procedures should be continued after the complete drying of this layer (not earlier than after 7 days).

After the bottom has completely dried, it is possible to install concrete rings, the seams of which must be treated with liquid glass, thus ensuring complete insulation of the structure.

It is worth paying attention to the type of concrete rings, as they come with and without a lock. The second type during the installation process is usually strengthened with metal brackets. A special overlap is installed on the last ring, which has a special place under the cover of the drain pit, a hatch.

Features of a do-it-yourself brick drain pit

Drainage pits made of bricks, as well as from concrete rings, can be either with or without a bottom. It's best to take care of it anyway. Brick structures of this type are distinguished by the following number of pros and cons:

environmental Safety;
ease of installation and operation;
does not depend on the level of groundwater and the type of land cover;
the presence of an unpleasant odor;
not a long service life;
frequency of effluent pumping, etc.

Work on this type of drain pit requires considerable time and physical costs, and consists of the following steps.

Choosing a building site.
Calculation of the dimensions of the pit.
Preparation of tools and materials.
Pit dig.
Bottom preparation.
Walling.
Pit interior.
Cover installation.

For working with brick material and preparing a place for cesspool you will need: bayonet and shovel shovels; a container for mixing mortar, buckets, trowels, construction measuring tools, pegs and a rope for fencing the territory.

After the foundation pit is dug to the desired depth and the planned dimensions, you need to take care of the walls (level them and eliminate collapses). Next, you can do the bottom, it should be poured under a slope. After the base has dried, formwork is prepared for the construction of walls, then we can proceed to brickwork. Experts repeatedly remind about an additional layer of waterproofing for bricks. Bitumen of different types (modified, or bituminous mastic) is used as protective layers.

Creating a cesspool with your own hands requires a reliable, durable floor. For this purpose, apply reinforced concrete structures because they are able to withstand heavy loads. according to safety rules, hatches should cover the drain holes on the sides by more than 30 cm. It is worth taking care of the hole in the hatch for convenient pumping of wastewater.

How to make a drain hole on your site

The presence of a cesspool on the farm is undoubtedly an important, necessary and, moreover, very important moment. In order to answer the question of how to make a drain pit on your site, you should read some tips from experienced professionals.

Tip 1. Before starting construction work, read in detail sanitary standards and choose the right place, any violations can lead to administrative penalties, fines.

Tip 2. Use only quality materials to neutralize the formation of harmful, poisonous fumes and odors.

Tip 3. Consult with experts on the issue of pumping wastewater, choose one of the methods (pump, sewage equipment, etc.), which will be the most convenient and efficient in your area.

Tip 4. In the process of installation work, do not forget about sealing and insulating joints and seams.

Tip 5. For durability, environmental friendliness and reliability of drain pits, install ready-made, sealed septic tanks that will simplify even the process of neutralizing wastewater.

For additional information on the topic, watch the video:

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