Good and bad neighbors in the garden. Pleasant neighborhood or what crops can be planted nearby

Neighbors in the garden

Crop rotation helps to avoid the same type of soil depletion. As a rule, plants are planted in the same place only after 3-4 years. The exceptions are beans, tomatoes, potatoes And strawberries. They can be planted annually on the same beds.

Crop rotation helps prepare the ground for future plantings. Short-rooted plants are replaced by plants with long roots that go deep into the ground. First, plants that are susceptible to one disease are planted, and then other plants that are resistant to these diseases are grown in this place. This helps produce a good crop that will last through the long winter. This is of greatest importance in relation to nightshade crops ( potatoes And tomatoes ). Plants from the same family are usually susceptible to the same diseases.

England in the early 18th century. Cucumbers were a rare plant: doctors doubted their usefulness, believing that they caused a cold, and some even believed that this vegetable was poisonous.

Usually root crops alternate with plants that provide a valuable ground part. For example, cabbage And tomatoes alternate with carrots . On site garlic And Luke any crop can be planted. But re-sowing bulbous plants is not recommended.

For change cucumbers, zucchini, pumpkin, cabbage, peas, beans, carrots, beets, lettuce, parsley, dill, garlic, celery are suitable for potatoes and tomatoes.

On site cucumbers, squash and zucchini can be grown cabbage, radishes, onions, garlic, beets, beans, peas, potatoes and tomatoes.

Beds with dill, parsley, celery and carrots alternate with garlic, onions, peas, beans, tomatoes And potatoes.

If strawberries were grown in one place for 4 years in a row, then they need to be replaced with legumes And roots. Then a year later - zucchini, pumpkin, cucumbers. Then they are replaced onion And tomatoes.

On site onion, garlic And legumes you can plant any vegetable crops.

Each vegetable has its predecessors, which prepare the ground for it in the best possible way:

1) for green vegetables and herbs (except lettuce) - root vegetables, cabbage, cucumbers, onions;

2) for cauliflower and early white cabbage - tomatoes, potatoes, legumes, onions, root crops (with the exception of turnips, radishes, radishes and rutabaga);

3) for white cabbage with medium and late dates ripening - potatoes, tomatoes, carrots, beets, legumes;

4) for onions - tomatoes, cucumbers, early potatoes, early and late white cabbage, legumes;

5) for cucumbers – cauliflower and early white cabbage, potatoes, tomatoes, root crops (excluding carrots), legumes (excluding beans);

6) for carrots - greens (except lettuce), cabbage, potatoes, tomatoes, legumes (except beans);

7) for beets - pumpkin, cucumbers, cabbage, early potatoes, legumes, tomatoes;

8) for potatoes - zucchini, cucumbers, squash, pumpkin, cabbage, root crops, legumes, onions;

9) for physalis, tomatoes, eggplants and peppers - cucumbers, cauliflower and white cabbage, zucchini, pumpkin, onions, legumes, root crops;

10) for garlic - tomatoes, early and late white cabbage, cucumbers, legumes.

Planting compatible plants results in higher yields. Otherwise, the yield is lower.

Legumes perfectly coexist with cucumbers, give a good harvest next to potatoes, radishes, mustard, radishes, spinach and sweet corn. Beans feed the soil with nitrogen. Fragrant basil protects the beans from damage by the bean weevil. It is useful to plant borage, rosemary, yarrow and oregano next to them.

Grape grows well next to radishes and radishes. Parsley helps rid grapes of phylloxera.

Excellent side by side peas with carrots, turnips and cucumbers. It can be planted in the aisles of these plants. It, like all legumes, saturates the soil with nitrogen and contributes to a good harvest.

Mustard drives away the codling moth from peas and has a depressing effect on the growth of weeds.

Peas can be planted next to celery and oats. Tomatoes and mustard stimulate its growth.

There are plants that promote growth strawberries. These are spinach, parsley and beans. Garlic protects her from pests. If you plant parsley between the rows of strawberries, then there will be no slugs. Strawberries go well with onions, radishes, cabbage, radishes, beets and lettuce. Of the spicy herbs in the neighborhood, it is better to plant sage and borage. If the soil around the strawberries is mulched with needles, then the taste of the berries will improve.

For white cabbage good neighbors are celery, onions, dill, lettuce, radishes, bush beans, and potatoes. To improve the taste of cabbage, dill can be planted between rows. In addition, this grass repels aphids and caterpillars. Celery helps cabbage to protect itself from cabbage flies and earthen fleas. However, its smell attracts cabbage whites. Therefore, these two plants should not be planted side by side.

Cabbage grows well next to borage. She drives away snails from cabbage. Salads protect cabbage from earthen flea.

Butterflies often lay eggs on cabbage. Help protect this plant from them spices. With their smell, they overshadow the smell of cabbage and thus protect it from butterflies. Wormwood, mint, hyssop, savory, chamomile, sage can be planted around cabbage. Leek has a deterrent effect on scoop caterpillars.

Some flowers repel insects (aphids, whites, carrot and cabbage flies) - nasturtium, calendula, marigolds. They can be planted in the aisles of cabbage. Parsnip has the ability to attract predatory insects that destroy caterpillars.

Near broccoli onions, lettuce, celery, beets grow well. You should not combine cabbage with tomatoes, carrots and beans.

Potato grows well near eggplant, corn, cabbage, spinach, onion, horseradish, garlic, beans and mint. It prevents damage to the beans by the bark, and it feeds the tubers with nitrogen.

All of the plants listed above have roots of different lengths. Therefore, they take moisture from the ground at different levels. If you grow potatoes with compatible plants, then they get sick less often and can grow in one place for many years. At the same time, potatoes will give a stable harvest.

Potatoes go well with onions, cabbage, radish, carrots, lettuce, garlic and dill. However, the best partners for him are bush beans, spinach and beans.

It is possible to plant horseradish with bushes in the area of \u200b\u200bpotatoes. To scare away the Colorado potato beetle, coriander, catnip, marigolds, tansy, nasturtium are suitable. Onions and garlic have a detrimental effect on late blight - a potato fungus.

Corn demanding on the soil, so it grows well next to the beans and is a support for it. Also, corn gives a big harvest next to cucumbers, tomatoes, beans, lettuce and early potatoes. Cucumbers can be planted right around corn beds. Corn also goes well with sunflower.

In Europe, since 1991, carrots have been classified as fruits. In Portugal, they even make jam from it!

Pumpkin, zucchini, peas and beans are used to compact corn beds - these plants climb the corn stalk. Soy protects corn from turtle bugs. You should not plant celery and table beets next to it.

A good combination is carrot And onion. They protect each other from onion and carrot flies.

Onion grows well next to watercress, strawberries, radishes, cucumbers, beets, parsley and tomatoes. The neighborhood with savory and chamomile enhances the growth of onions. However, these plants rarely need to be planted.

Onions and garlic nearby protect cucumbers from bacteriosis. You should not plant legumes (beans, beans, peas) and sage next to onions.

A useful neighborhood is also observed among fruits and berries. For example, Apple tree prevents the appearance of raspberries gray rot, and raspberries do not allow scab to appear on the apple tree.

Carrot grows well next to tomatoes, onions, dill, lettuce. Planted along the edge of a bed with carrots, beets heal the first.

Mint and lemon balm grow well in sorrel thickets.

Place under sea buckthorn suitable for strawberries, as well as oregano and chamomile. These herbs and sea buckthorn leaves can be used to make tea.

cucumbers coexist well with cabbage and peas, but cannot stand the vine. Sowing dill between rows of cucumbers increases the fruiting period of the latter. Cucumbers go well with lettuce, onions, beans, celery, parsley and beets. If you plant onions next to cucumbers, then the spider mite will not start.

Walnut likes to grow up alone.

For tomatoes dill and garlic can be planted in the neighborhood. Tomatoes themselves protect many plants from pests. Tall tomatoes scare the codling moth from pears and apple trees, they also protect these trees from scab. Tomatoes enhance the development of cabbage, onions, peas and beans, which means they increase their yield. Their taste improves if you plant basil nearby.

radish grows well next to cucumbers, carrots, tomatoes, pumpkin, beets, spinach.

Salad repels insects, such as earthen flea, from cruciferous plants (cabbage, radish and radish).

If radish planted among bush beans, it will be tastier and larger. The neighborhood of this root crop with watercress and nasturtium gives the same effect.

For beets a good combination is peas, cabbage, lettuce, parsley and dill.

Celery prefers to grow next to beans, tomatoes, onions, spinach, cabbage and cucumbers.

If between the bushes currants plant an onion and leave it in the ground for the winter, the bush will be protected from the bud mite.

Plants such as marigold And asparagus, protect the garden from nematodes (roundworms).

For a long time planted in the neighborhood pumpkin, corn and beans. Pumpkin gives a large shade and thus does not allow weeds to grow and protects the earth from overheating. Beans replenish the soil with nitrogen. The plants listed here have root systems of various lengths. They take moisture from the soil at different levels and feed on different mineral elements. They need different lighting. Therefore, pumpkin, corn and beans grow well together.

In the area between vegetables and fruit trees, you can plant spices. Basil, anise, lemon balm, coriander, thyme, parsley, tarragon will grow well here. With their aroma, these plants repel many insect pests. They protect the garden from some diseases.

To protect against nematodes, nasturtium, calendula, marigolds, and chicory are planted between the rows of potatoes and onions. For the same purpose, rye straw can be embedded in the soil.

Leaf mustard, marigolds, calendula, spinach and celandine have a healing effect on the soil.

If you plant calendula around a flower bed with roses, roses will be protected from nematodes.

Parsley revitalizes vineyards suffering from phylloxera and repels ants. Dolmatian chamomile, and tansy cineraria, protects cabbage beds from aphids, caterpillars of cabbage scoops and whites. The same plant prevents aphids, codling moth and other insect pests from appearing on apple trees. Previously, the powder from this plant was used to fight flies, bedbugs, fleas and cockroaches. Sometimes he helped get rid of mice. You can also use pink tansy (Persian chamomile) or red (Caucasian chamomile) for these purposes.

Next to the salad, a good harvest of cucumbers, carrots, radishes and legumes is obtained.

For beans, the best neighbors are cucumbers, cabbage and sugar beets. It helps to protect other plants from the meadow moth.

Garlic saves the garden from many diseases. It protects carnations, asters, gladioli from powdery mildew, black spot, blackleg and fusarium. It also reduces the incidence of gray mold damage to cloves.

Plants can also negatively affect each other - impede growth, attract insect pests, and contribute to the occurrence of diseases. Such incompatible plants are not recommended to be planted side by side.

Bad for each other legumes(peas, beans, soybeans) and garlic with onions. Also, the growth of legumes is hindered by the nearby bitter wormwood and marigolds.

Do not grow next to cabbage and grape.

Peas will not grow next to tomatoes, beans and rutabaga, garlic. Wormwood is a bad neighbor for him.

Walnut Shades and prevents any plants from growing under its crown.

Cabbage incompatible with tomatoes and carrots. It is also undesirable to plant nearby parsley and grapes. Bad neighbor for leafy cabbage is tansy.

Potato often affected by late blight if tomatoes, pumpkins and sunflowers grow nearby. Raspberry, cherry, apple tree, mountain ash, sunflower have a depressing effect on him. Can't stand celery potatoes next door.

have a negative impact on corn table beets and celery.

If planted nearby currant And gooseberry, then gooseberry moth will be defeated.

Should not be planted raspberries Near strawberries. This combination of plants leads to the reproduction of strawberry-raspberry weevil. Strawberries, nightshade and sea buckthorn suffer from the same diseases.

Tomatoes inhibit growth cucumbers. Cucumbers also do not grow well next to potatoes and herbs.

Among fruit trees such effects are also observed. Peach has a depressing effect on pear, apple and cherry. These trees should be planted at a considerable distance from each other. Parsley is incompatible with head lettuce and cucumbers.

Tomatoes make it difficult to grow grapes. And they themselves, in turn, do not grow next to turnips and potatoes.

For radish are negative neighbors of hyssop and spinach.

FROM leafy mustard do not plant lettuce.

Beet does not grow next to spinach, potatoes and corn.

A tree like poplar, harmful to apple and corn.

Pumpkin hinders growth potatoes.

Shallots won't grow beans.

Fennel negatively affects almost all vegetable and other crops.

Some herbs prevent vegetables from growing. Sage is not recommended to be planted next to onions, beans do not grow next to marigolds, wormwood makes it difficult for peas and beans to grow, and tansy is bad for kale.

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One of the secrets of successful horticulture is allelopathy - compatibility vegetable crops. In other words, it is the knowledge of how plants "befriend each other". This approach will help not only to achieve high yields and health of crops, but also to preserve the natural fertility of the soil, which is an essential condition for any type of agriculture.

When a summer resident draws up a planting plan for his site, he needs to know what grew on it in previous seasons. This is very important, since when growing monocultures, one-sided depletion of the soil occurs, which means that not all plants will be able to survive and give a good harvest.

Cultures differ in the time of fruit ripening. This allows you to rationally distribute plantings and make sure that the land does not stand idle. Be sure to take into account the size of plants, their need for light and soil moisture, resistance to pests, demanding fertility. In the latter case, there are strong consumers of nutrients, and there are weaker ones, which is one of the factors affecting the compatibility of vegetables in the garden.

All of the above criteria lay the foundation for natural farming called "mixed planting".

Planting vegetables - after which predecessors can you wait good harvest?

What is mixed landings?

This is a method of organic farming based on many years of experience of well-known horticulturalists who carefully observe the natural processes in flora and implementing them in their own areas. It was this approach - observation and application - that made it possible to accurately determine the compatibility of plants in the garden.

essence this method It consists in planting different vegetable crops on the same land plot in such a way that they have a beneficial effect on each other, creating a good microclimate that provides a rich harvest and natural protection from pests.

Advantages of the method

People who have been planting vegetables on a mixed basis for more than a year note the following positive sides this approach:

the yield increased several times - 15-20 kilograms per 1 m 2;
no need to thoroughly weed out;
reduced time spent on garden work;
vegetables in the garden have practically ceased to hurt, their appearance has become healthier;
it became possible to obtain fresh vegetables before the first frost;
improved taste and aromatic qualities of products;
mixed plantings attract more pollinating bees;
reduced need for plants in watering;
the available land area has become more rationally used;
the depletion of the soil has stopped with a further prospect of its improvement;
the need for crop rotation disappeared.

When creating the right mixed plantings in the garden, a separate "kingdom" is formed, which has its own laws that do not require unnecessary human intervention. Vegetables and other plants, terrestrial and underground insects and other fauna coexist in harmony, maintaining a natural balance, as in the wild. Of course, a person is not completely removed from work, but his physical work in the garden is reduced to a minimum.

Basic rules for mixed landings

Several simple rules help you get a good harvest without the use of chemical fertilizers:

The optimal width of the beds is 1 meter.
The main crop is planted in the center of the bed, and the accompanying crop is planted on the sides.
Slowly ripening species are chosen as the main ones, which, by the time of fruiting, grow strongly, for example, tomatoes.
Accompanying are low-growing plants with a fibrous root system that retain moisture in the ground and ripen quickly, for example, greens. By the time the main culture begins to mature, the friendly ones around it will already be gathered and make room.

For the correct combinations of plants in the garden, you can use the vegetable compatibility table when planting.

Compatibility of vegetable crops with each other

The plant compatibility table clearly shows what can be planted with what and how plants affect each other.

Name of culture	friendly neighbors	Beneficial features	Unfriendly neighbors
Watermelon	beans, potatoes, sow thistle, mar, oats
Basil	sweet peppers, peas, all types of cabbage, tomatoes, eggplant, asparagus	repels ants, aphids and other pests; protects tomatoes and corn from hornworm, beans from bean weevil	cucumber, rue
Eggplant	pepper, bush beans, onion, spinach, lettuce, peas, thyme, basil		fennel, cucumber, pumpkin
vegetable beans	all types of cabbage, peas, carrots, radishes, rhubarb, cucumber, beets, corn, potatoes, pumpkin, sage, zucchini, strawberries, mustard, lettuce, rosemary	legumes are able to enrich the soil with nitrogen; repel the Colorado potato beetle, get rid of the wireworm	fennel, peas, onion, garlic, marigolds
Peas	basil, kohlrabi, lettuce, mustard, eggplant, Beijing, legumes, carrots, turnips, cucumbers, radishes, radishes, parsley, zucchini, pumpkin, watermelon, corn	improves the taste of watermelons and their growth; enriches the soil with nitrogen	hyssop, wormwood, rhubarb, beans, rhubarb, tomato, onion, garlic, beans
Mustard	all types of cabbage, radish, legumes, peas, beets, spinach		beetroot, rapeseed, turnip
Melon	corn, radish, radish, beans		potatoes, cucumbers
vegetable marrow	onions, corn, beets, legumes, bush beans, mint, radish, nasturtium		Potato, pumpkin
White cabbage	radish, beet, potato, lettuce, cucumber, celery, beans, spinach, onion, fennel, dill, beans, mint, sage, coriander, rosemary, thyme, basil, thyme, marjoram	stimulates the growth of celery	carrot, tomato, grape, turnip, garlic, parsley, tansy, cauliflower
Broccoli	parsley, beans, potatoes, onions, beets, lettuce, carrots, sage, celery, dill, rosemary, oregano, nasturtium, mint, chamomile		tomato, turnip, strawberry, cauliflower
Brussels sprouts	potatoes, beans, mustard, sage, mint, celery, hyssop, lettuce, dill		Strawberries, tomatoes
Kohlrabi	cucumber, lettuce, radish, onion, beetroot, spinach, peas, mint, dill, potatoes, fennel, basil, mustard, pepper, chamomile, sage		tomato, bean, strawberry, horseradish, garlic
leafy cabbage	potatoes, mint, sage		tansy
Cabbage	peas, beans, spinach, lettuce, carrots, mint, mustard, sage		Strawberry, tomato
Cauliflower	lettuce, cucumber, celery, potatoes, beans, mustard, hyssop, mint, nasturtium, thyme, sage, grapes		tomato, strawberry, white cabbage, beetroot, broccoli
Potato	onions, white cabbage, corn, horseradish, garlic, beans, radishes, eggplant, radish, calendula, legumes, spinach, lettuce, horseradish, nasturtium, marigolds, thyme, coriander, beets, watermelon, amaranth		fennel, pumpkin, quinoa, tomato, cucumber, melon, celery, sunflower, zucchini, rhubarb
Watercress	radish, radish, turnip, onion, nasturtium, spinach, tomato, grapes	improves the taste of radishes	cucumbers
Corn	potatoes, lettuce, beans, beans, zucchini, pumpkin, cucumber, peas, watermelon, artichoke, melon, tomato, soy, basil, grapes, sunflower, lettuce	gives a good shade for watermelons, melons, gourds and cucumbers and improves their growth and taste	fennel, onion, beetroot, celery
Onion	carrot, cucumber, beetroot, tomato, cabbage, chicory, strawberry, spinach, watercress, chamomile, zucchini, watermelon, melon, fennel, savory, marjoram, pepper, potato, dill, parsley, borage	repels pests from carrots; improves tomato growth	sage, beans, beans, radishes, radishes, peas, turnips, asparagus
Leek	celery, parsley, carrots, cabbage, lettuce, beets, borage, beans, strawberries	repels aphids and caterpillars of cabbage scoops	beans, broccoli, peas
Carrot	cucumber, onion, radish, pea, beet, sage, parsley, radish, spinach, lettuce, pea, rosemary, sage, tobacco, tomato, garlic, chives, marjoram, strawberry	repels onion fly	beetroot, anise, parsley, fennel, dill, celery
Cucumber	corn, late cabbage, carrots, onions, garlic, beans, dill, fennel, peas, lettuce, radish, kohlrabi, spinach, beets, radishes, celery, chamomile, eggplant, legumes, cilantro, peanuts		tomato, marjoram, potato, watercress, melon, eggplant, basil, rhubarb, sage,
Pepper	tomato, basil, lovage, spinach, geranium, petunia, marjoram, carrot, onion, eggplant, tomato, thyme, coriander	promotes the growth of basil	kohlrabi, pumpkin, beans, cucumber, fennel
Parsley	onions, grapes, strawberries, spinach, thyme, asparagus, lettuce, dill, peas, zucchini, radish, radish	improves the taste of tomatoes; heals vineyards; repels slugs among strawberry plantings	carrots, celery, lovage, cilantro, white cabbage
Rhubarb	celery, cabbage, lettuce, beans, peas, spinach		potato, turnip, radish, onion, carrot, radish, radish, pea
Radish	tomato, beans, spinach, carrots, cabbage, celery, lettuce, beans, zucchini, pumpkin, peas, onions, parsley, cucumber, potatoes, watercress, garlic, grapes, strawberries, clover, beets, melon, turnips	stimulates the growth of grapes	fennel, rhubarb, hyssop,
radish	cucumber, melon, tomato, carrot, spinach, beans, fennel, beets, cabbage, parsnips, beans, grapes, watercress, parsley, strawberries	protects cucumbers from leaf beetle and spider mite and improves their taste; good effect on the soil	hyssop, beetroot, onion, rhubarb, celery
Turnip	radish, peas, watercress, spinach, beans		tomato, rhubarb, mustard, onion, gulyavnik, knotweed
Salad	legumes, parsley, beets, peas, potatoes, strawberries, corn, onions, peppers, radishes, turnips, pumpkins, beans, celery, spinach, eggplant	improves the growth and taste of tomatoes; protects crops from earthen flea	carrots, beets
Beet	onion, radish, cucumber, carrot, garlic, cabbage, zucchini, beans, tomato, fennel, beans, peas, lettuce, potatoes	stimulates the growth of grapes	chives, celery, corn, dill, mustard
Celery	cabbage, cucumber, spinach, onion, beans, tomato, beans	protects crops from earthen fleas; repels white butterflies from cabbage	corn, potatoes, carrots, radishes, beets, parsley
Asparagus	basil, parsley, tomato, potato, cabbage, lettuce		spinach, beans, onion
Tomato	basil, radish, parsley, onion, garlic, lettuce, beans, carrots, sow thistle, corn, spinach, sage, asparagus, beans, early white cabbage, beets, celery, radish, lemon balm, marigolds, dioica nettle, pepper, thyme, mint		quinoa, turnip, potato, dill, pea, fennel, pumpkin, kohlrabi, cucumber
Pumpkin	corn, mint, peas, beans, radishes		potato, pepper, pumpkin, tomato, zucchini
Dill	broccoli, cabbage, cucumber, spinach, onion, lettuce	increases the yield of cucumbers and cabbage; repels aphids and caterpillars	carrots, tomato, beets, basil, potatoes, beans
Bush beans	cabbage, potato, cucumber, radish, lettuce, turnip, celery, tomato, savory, spinach, eggplant, grapes, pumpkin, strawberry, beetroot, corn, marrow, borage	enhances the taste of radishes and potatoes, protection against pests	garlic, onion, peas, kohlrabi, dill, pepper, asparagus
Fennel	White cabbage, kohlrabi, cucumber, onion, radish, beetroot		eggplant, cumin, radish, beans, carrots, tomato, potatoes, coriander, peppers, spinach, corn
Horseradish	potato	protects against potato bugs	kohlrabi, radish, radish
Garlic	parsley, tomato, beet, carrot, lettuce, cucumber, radish, strawberry, potato		beans, beans, cabbage, peas
Spinach	compatible with almost all cultures	accelerates the growth of onions, creates a favorable microclimate	asparagus, fennel, zucchini

planting strawberries

To get a good harvest of this tasty and tender crop, you need to choose the right neighborhood of vegetables in the beds with it. The best neighbors for strawberries are parsley, which repels slugs, as well as leeks - it protects against gray rot.

Calendula and marigold help to cope with the nematode. In autumn, these flowers can be crushed and mulched between rows. Irises protect strawberry bushes from frost. Sage improves taste.

Neighborhood with carrots increases the yield of both crops. Onions and garlic repel harmful insects. Spinach, lettuce, beans, beets, radishes and radishes have a positive effect on the growth of strawberries.

Strawberries do not have bad neighbors in the garden among vegetables, although the opinion regarding the neighborhood with it remains ambiguous different types cabbage. It is believed that the culture does not like the close location of birches, but it is good for it near spruces and pines, whose needles can be used as mulch.

Nutrient requirements of vegetable crops

Different crops consume different amounts of nutrients, mainly nitrogen, which greatly affects the compatibility of plants in the garden. According to this principle, they can be classified:

Strong consumers: cabbage - white, cauliflower, Brussels sprouts, broccoli, red, Beijing; pumpkin, cucumbers, zucchini, celery.
Average consumers: radishes, potatoes, eggplants, beets, carrots, spinach, chicory, head lettuce, onions, fennel.
Weak consumers: radishes, beans, peas, spices, herbs.

In many regions of Russia, there is still snow in the dachas, frosts continue. But spring is just around the corner, and although summer residents have no practical work yet, it's time to take up theory - so let's talk about the neighborhood of vegetables and other plants on the site.

So I myself noticed that from phytophthora and scoops, tomatoes planted for many years in a row in one place in the garden, in the country suffer MUCH (!) More often, and the disease is much more difficult, and treatment and spraying are not so effective. Potato growers also know that potatoes in one place are more affected by moths, tubers become smaller, any planting for many years in one place degenerates 2-3 times more intensively and no longer gives more of the yields that the gardener is counting on.

When planting vegetables on small area it is necessary to consider how one plant affects another. This is the only way to ensure a good harvest.

Each plant in the dacha needs a different amount of space, light, nutrients and moisture. To achieve harmonious coexistence of plants in a small area, consider several factors.

Neighborhood of vegetables

Do not plant nearby plants, the underground part of which is in the same layer. To protect themselves from certain pests or pathogens, the roots of vegetables and herbs release complex compounds into the soil. They can be beneficial to some plants and toxic to others. For example, mustard root secretions are good for peas, garlic, and carrots, and bad for cabbages.

For the same reason, it is not recommended to grow the same plant in one place in the garden for more than a year. For example, beetroot can grow in one place for up to three years only with mixed plantings, since plants of other species absorb and process its root secretions, preventing them from accumulating in the soil. Pumpkin, some cabbage, parsley, celery, and carrots are not so picky in this regard. Corn, beans and leeks grow well without transplanting.

Pests

An equally important reason why it is necessary to rotate vegetables at one planting site is that diseases and sometimes pests of this vegetable accumulate in this place over several years.

Cucumbers, cabbage, celery, tomatoes, beans, lettuce are especially affected by this.

Changing plantings helps to fight without the use of chemicals with the most common pests, such as cabbage, carrot and onion flies. After plants that infect certain diseases and pests, cultures resistant to them are stirred. It is especially important to observe this rule for the cabbage and nightshade families.

Feeding with minerals and fertilizer

To get a good harvest, it is worth knowing how much nutrients certain vegetables need. It depends on how much fertilizing will be applied after harvesting the crops.

All types of cabbage and celery are the most demanding for nutrition.

Pumpkin, nightshade, as well as all types of onions, lettuce, spinach and corn occupy an intermediate place.

Carrots, parsnips, root parsley, radishes, radishes, beets require minimal conditions.

Vegetables from the same family need similar nutrients. If they are planted one after another in one place, this leads to one-sided depletion of the soil. In the first year, it is recommended to plant demanding crops, in the second - legumes, in the third - less demanding plants. Then the alternation is repeated.

In addition, in a small area, the depth of the roots of plants, their height and ripening time are taken into account. The latter is especially important when it comes to mixed landings.

Useful plants

For a better condition of plantings for vegetables, it is recommended to sow ornamental plants, releasing phytoncidal or insecticidal substances: calendula, nasturtium, matthiol. Honey plants can be excellent neighbors of vegetables: basil, marjoram, savory, catnip, lemon balm. Flowering plants of the celery family are also planted - cumin, anise, dill, as well as sunflower, chamomile, daisies, lavender, oregano.

There are plants that improve soil fertility. For example, some legumes, clover, alfalfa enrich the earth thanks to nodule bacteria on the roots that absorb nitrogen from the air, so after alfalfa, potatoes grow just fine and without nitroammophos.

And due to the deep root system, they enable the upper layer of the soil to receive potassium, phosphorus and calcium. Caraway seeds, buckwheat, flax, rapeseed also improve soil properties.

The general condition of the plants depends on the assortment of the garden - the more diverse it is, the better the plantings grow and give a greater harvest. Nearby or one after another, you need to plant crops related to various types and to different families. The most popular vegetables and root crops belong to two families - cabbage and celery.

What are the families of vegetables

Celery: parsley, celery, carrots, parsnips, cumin, dill and fennel.
Cabbage: colored, white and red, Brussels, Savoy, Chinese cabbage, broccoli, kohlrabi, as well as swede, radish, radish, turnip, mustard, horseradish, watercress, turnip.
Aster family: chicory and all types of lettuce.
Bluegrass: corn.
Gauze: beets, spinach.
Onions: all types of onions and garlic.
Nightshade: tomatoes, potatoes, peppers, eggplants.
Legumes: peas, beans and beans, also soy.
Buckwheat: rhubarb, sorrel.
Pumpkin: cucumbers, pumpkin, melon, squash and zucchini, zucchini.

Optimum rotation for good yields

After tomatoes and potatoes, cabbage, cucumbers, zucchini, beans, and beets grow well. In place of cucumbers, zucchini, radishes, cabbage, beets, and beans are grown. Carrots, dill, parsley, celery should be replaced by onions, potatoes, tomatoes. After beans, peas, garlic and onions, all crops can be planted.

The most optimal placement of vegetables in three plots by year looks like this: plot A - celery, spinach, potatoes, leeks, corn, plot B - legumes, fennel, onions, plot C - cabbage, perennials.

Figure 1: Alternation of plants by year (given for four years - from top to bottom: first year at the top, etc.)

Some plants oppress each other either unilaterally or mutually, because of this, their productivity and resistance to diseases and pests are reduced. For example, not a single vegetable crop tolerates the neighborhood of hyssop, wormwood - especially peas and beans, and fennel - especially tomatoes, spinach, bush beans. Of the herbs, you should also not plant sage near onions, marigolds - near beans, tansy - near leafy cabbage, and quinoa - near potatoes.

Table 1 - Wrong neighborhood

Vegetable	Favorable Neighborhood	Unfavorable Neighborhood
Cabbage	Celery, lettuce, dill	Tomato, bean, onion
Potatoes	cabbage, onion	Cucumber, pumpkin, celery
A tomato	Pepper, celery, onion, parsley	Eggplant, kohlrabi, potatoes
cucumbers	Radish, lettuce, peas, cabbage	Spicy herbs and potatoes
Carrot	Onions, tomatoes, peas and lettuce	Beets and dill
Beet	Beans, lettuce, onion	Dill, mustard, carrot

This method is simple and lies in the fact that crops are combined in one garden not by year, but in one year. Excellent result show plantings of tomatoes and peppers with early varieties of onions, parsley and celery (A). Zucchini and squash willingly make room for radishes (B), and cucumbers for dill and lettuce (C).

Because the maturation time horticultural crops different and should be taken into account. For example, radishes have time to grow before zucchini and squash begin to displace it. Cabbage and celery planted together become stronger, plus celery repels cabbage bugs. It is impossible to grow crops of the same species next to each other, but with different ripening periods, for example, early and late cabbage. If plants on the same bed require a different amount of top dressing, then at the borders, across the ridges, internal bumpers should be made.

Note: Green Conveyor
At the end of July, sow radishes, carrots for bunch products, spinach and summer varieties lettuce.

Peas enrich the soil with nitrogen, so after it all plants develop perfectly.

Beijing cabbage can generally be sown very late - it is early ripening, it is not afraid of bad weather and light frosts.

Councils of gardeners, summer residents, gardeners

My system of crop rotation and the neighborhood of plants in the garden

In old Russia, agricultural technology was high level, there were teaching schools, literature. Combining the old and the new, I developed my agricultural technology, thanks to which I have high, stable yields every year.

Basics of my science:

planning;
crop rotation;
planting dates and neighborhood in the beds.

Planning

I have only 4 acres. Under trees and vegetables. In winter, I draw up a detailed planting plan, calculate how much and where to plant. And in the spring, just know to work!

Crop rotation

My beds are permanent, 90 cm wide. Row spacing is 40 cm. Slightly, about 5 cm deepened. I do not dig the aisle. I only fertilize the beds. I water from a hose, and while the water is flowing, I do other things: I loosen or mulch. After all, working on the ground is hard work. I have been retired for four years now. And over the years, digging into the ground becomes harder and harder.

My beds are numbered. And knowing their size, I calculate how many plants need to be planted, which ones, I figure out how much I will harvest approximately. I don't have anywhere else to store it.

I try to land at the end of April, placing arches and using covering material or film. I keep crop rotation.

I change every 3 years, and there is a separate school for mustaches.

After harvesting, as soon as the bed is free, I sow green manure: mustard, alfalfa, rye, oats, legumes (mostly peas). To disinfect the soil, I bury calendula and marigolds.

No. p / p	1st year	It is not recommended to plant in the same place during:
1	Tomatoes, potatoes	3-4 years
2	Cucumbers, zucchini, pumpkin	2 years
3	Cabbage, radish, radish, turnip	4 years
4	Beets, carrots, spinach	1 year
5	Onion garlic	2 years
6	Salad	2-3 years
7	Peas, beans	Can be annually

Neighborhood of plants

Like humans, plants have friends and enemies. I watched them for a long time and made a table (see Table 2).

	A tomato	cucumbers	Cabbage	Pepper	Potato	Radish	Carrot	Beet
eggplant					+
A tomato	+		+			+	+	+
Cucumber		+	+			+		+
Cabbage		+	+		+			+
Pepper	+	+	+				+
Potato		+			+	+	+	+
Beet	+	+	+					+
Carrot	+	+				+	+
Salads
Garlic	+	+					+	+
beans

I love all flowers very much. I have them everywhere: by a small pond, along the paths, under the trees. And about 20 types of medicinal herbs. I even found and planted burdock! I would like to have everything on the site. Although dense plantings are harder to handle, the labor expended is more than paid off. My plants are fine. They seem to be happy and feel great in my area. Me too. Thank you mother earth.

P.S. When drawing up a garden plan, you need to pay attention to what year after manure is applied, which crops can be grown. Because, for example, root crops after fresh manure will be crooked, tasteless, ugly.

Alternation and proximity of plants - the opinions of professionals and gardeners

Rotation of crops

The annual change of planting site is called fruit change, crop rotation. Systematic rotation of crops prevents the occurrence of soil fatigue, the one-sided use of nutrients, the transmission of diseases and the spread of pests hibernating in the soil. Therefore, you should draw up a plan for vegetable planting in advance, before you have to start spring work.

In a word, it is impossible to grow one after another varieties of vegetables of the same family in the same garden. So it will be possible to avoid the defeat of diseases that may lurk in the soil.

Also, you should not grow vegetables in a row from year to year in the same garden, actively consuming nutrients. Otherwise, the soil will be depleted and there will be a lack of nutrients. According to their nutritional requirements, vegetable varieties are divided into three groups.

Any piece of land can accommodate and feed the more living beings, the less their needs and interests collide with each other. K. I. Timiryazev.

Experts believe that a wide variety of relationships are established between plants, as well as between people, depending on many natural factors. They can be friends and even protect each other from pests and diseases, they can simply tolerate someone's neighborhood while maintaining neutrality, but they can also compete with each other and even be at enmity, up to the physical destruction of the opponent.

Any household plot with a garden, vegetable garden and flower beds located on its territory is a community of plants that live by their own rules and laws and which should be taken into account by both gardeners and gardeners. For example, experts believe that almost all cultures feel comfortable next to raspberries. The fact is that this plant is a nitrogen fixer and enriches the soil with oxygen. They recommend planting an apple tree next to a raspberry, and so close that their branches can touch. With this arrangement, raspberries will protect the apple tree from scab, and that, in turn, will protect raspberries from gray rot. Barberry has good compatibility with honeysuckle and plum. Hawthorn maintains good neighborliness with cherries and cherries, but only on condition that the distance between them is at least 4 m.

Grapes and pears get along well together. The tree does not suffer from the fact that grapes wrap around it, and the grape liana also feels good. Favorable relations are able to maintain grapes with Chinese magnolia vine or actinidia, so these plants can be safely wrapped around a gazebo on personal plot.

Brian Robert Marshall

Here are a few examples of the undesirable neighborhood of plants in the garden.

Experienced gardeners know that a pear planted in close proximity to a cherry or cherry will constantly get sick, and red and black currants will not grow next to a plum, cherry or cherry.

The close proximity of gooseberries and currants provokes the active reproduction of a pest dangerous for these plants - the gooseberry moth.

The apple tree reacts extremely negatively to the close proximity of apricot, cherry or sweet cherry, so it is better to avoid such combinations in the garden. Also, apple and pear do not like lilac, viburnum, roses, mock orange, barberry.

Negatively refers to everything that is under its crown, sweet cherry. For this reason, it is impossible to plant seedlings of any other trees under the cherry - they will be doomed to death.

It is not recommended to plant birch near growing trees and shrubs, since its powerful root system consumes a lot of water and deprives neighboring plants of moisture. Spruce and maple can have a similar effect.

Juniper should not be placed next to a pear, as it can infect fruit tree fungal diseases.

Compatible and incompatible crops in the beds.

The following table is based on long-term observations by the Ecology Action team (based on the book How to Grow More Vegetables by John Jevans).

	Compatible	Incompatible
eggplant	beans
peas	carrots, turnips, radishes, cucumbers, corn	onions, garlic, potatoes, gladioli
cabbage	potatoes, celery, dill, beets, onions	strawberries, tomatoes
potato	beans, corn, cabbage, horseradish	pumpkin, cucumbers, tomatoes, raspberries
Strawberry	common bean, spinach, lettuce	cabbage
corn	potatoes, peas, beans, cucumbers, pumpkin
onion garlic	beets, strawberries, tomatoes, lettuce, celery, carrots	peas, beans
carrot	peas, lettuce, onions, tomatoes	Dill
cucumbers	beans, corn, peas, radish, sunflower	potato
parsley	tomatoes, asparagus
radish	peas, lettuce, cucumbers
beet	onion, kohlrabi
celery	onions, tomatoes, bush beans, cabbages
tomatoes	onion, parsley	cabbage, potatoes
turnip	peas
pumpkin	corn	potato
bush beans	potatoes, carrots, cucumbers, cabbages, celery, strawberries	onion garlic
spinach	Strawberry

Note that there is other information about compatible and incompatible plants grown in the garden. We also give it so that gardeners have options to choose from:

beans are compatible with cucumbers, potatoes, cabbage, lettuce, leaf lettuce, radishes, beets, rhubarb, tomatoes; incompatible with peas, garlic, onions;
peas are compatible with cabbage, pumped lettuce, carrots, radishes; incompatible with beans, potatoes, garlic, tomatoes, onions;
strawberries are compatible with garlic, cabbage, pumped lettuce, onions, radishes; incompatible plant satellites are not listed;
cucumbers are compatible with beans, garlic, cabbage, pumped lettuce, celery, onions; incompatible with radishes and tomatoes;
potatoes are compatible with cabbage and spinach; incompatible with peas and tomatoes;
garlic is compatible with strawberries, cucumbers, carrots and tomatoes; incompatible with beans, peas and cabbage;
cabbage is compatible with peas, cucumbers, potatoes, garlic, head and leaf lettuces, onions, radishes, beets, celery, spinach and tomatoes;
lettuce is compatible with beans, peas, strawberries, cucumbers, cabbage, onions, radishes and tomatoes; incompatible with celery;
lettuce is compatible with cabbage, radish, beets, rhubarb, tomatoes;
leeks are compatible with strawberries, cabbage, pumped lettuce, carrots, celery and tomatoes; incompatible with beans and peas;
radish is compatible with beans, strawberries, cabbage, head and leaf lettuces, spinach and tomatoes, incompatible with onions;
beets are compatible with cucumbers, lettuce and onions; incompatible with onions;
rhubarb is compatible with cabbage, cabbage and leaf salads and celery;
tomatoes are compatible with garlic, cabbage, head and leaf salads, leeks, radishes, celery and spinach; incompatible with peas, cucumbers and potatoes;
onions are compatible with strawberries, cucumbers, head lettuce, carrots and beets; incompatible with beans, cabbage and radishes.

M J Richardson

Aromatic and medicinal herbs useful in the garden and in the beds.

This table is also based on the aforementioned book How to Grow More Vegetables. Although there is similar information that even medieval monks used aromatic and medicinal herbs in their gardens and gardens to improve the taste of fruits and vegetables, increase yields and repel pests.

Compatible aromatic and medicinal herbs for the garden
Basil	Grows well with tomatoes, Improves the growth process and the taste of the fruit. Repels flies and mosquitoes
Marigold	Acts as a repellent for insects, including nematodes
Valerian	Good to have somewhere in the garden.
Hyssop	Repels cabbage scoop, grows well with cabbage and grapes. Should not be grown with radishes.
Cat mint	Repels earthen (garden) fleas
White quinoa	One of the best weeds for extracting nutrients from the subsoil; good for potatoes, onions and corn
Linen	Grows well with carrots, potatoes; repels potato flea, improves growth process and smell.
Lovage officinalis	Improves the taste and condition of plants if planted in different places in the garden.
Melissa officinalis	Grow in different areas of the garden
Monarda tubular	Grows well with tomatoes, improves taste and growth
Mint, peppermint	It grows well with cabbage and tomatoes, improves the general condition of plants, the taste of fruits, repels the white cabbage scoop
Nasturtium	Grows well with radishes, cabbages and cucurbits; grow under fruit trees, repels aphids, bed bugs, striped cucurbits.
Calendula	Grows well with tomatoes. Repels asparagus leaf beetle, tomato worm and all kinds of insects.
sow thistle	In moderation, this weed promotes the growth of tomatoes, onions, and corn.
Petunia	Protects legumes
Wormwood medicinal	Grows well with cabbage. Repels the cabbage owl.
Chamomile officinalis	Grows well with cabbage and onions. Improves growth and taste.
Thyme (thyme)	Repels the cabbage worm
dill	Grows well with cabbage. Doesn't like carrots.
Fennel	Grow outside the garden. Most plants don't like it.
Garlic	Grow near roses and raspberries. Repels the Japanese beetle. Improves the growth and condition of plants.
Sage	Grow with cabbage and carrots, keep away from cucumbers. Repels cabbage scoop, carrot fly.
Tarragon	It is good to have around the garden in its various places.

We believe that within the framework of one article, we nevertheless gave sufficient material (in fact, there is a lot of it) on the stated topic, so that the workers of summer cottages have a choice: what is acceptable to them and what is not. We wish you success!

P.S. As you can see from this information, things are going well with the plant community. For them, even a science has been defined that studies the influence of plants on each other - allelopathy. The situation is worse in the community of people, because in case of quarrelsomeness together they kill each other, and over the years they are getting more and more sophisticated - from guns, tanks, planes, missiles, etc. (usually for self-interest and greed). But tell me, my friends, how can each of us sow the garden of his soul? In it, somewhere around the age of 20, we already felt the birth of weak, but quite original and native sprouts of an independent worldview. It does not matter with what properties the seeds germinated in each of us: something was passed on from ancestors, something from the collective culture (morality) in which we managed to live. We accepted some of the ideology of the past with enthusiasm, doubted something, but the roots in our souls continued to grow. And then, those of us who have already reached old age are told: “No, sow the garden of your soul with new seeds, because those seeds that have taken root in your soul are bad, wrong.” But we see that the offered seeds are even worse than ours. As soon as we saw their sprouts in the new life, they seemed to us more unacceptable than our former ones. Although ... there is something in them, rather from the inevitability of human development. And our soul will not go anywhere from them. They also begin to grow in it, whether we like it or not. So we, the old gardeners of our soul, are forced to separate the strengthened roots of the past and the sprouting roots of the present from each other, because it is a pity if they get mixed up, and this is wrong. It is a sad occupation, however, gentlemen!

Experienced gardeners know that the successful neighborhood of different types of vegetables will help increase the yield. The table of plant compatibility during planting will help the summer resident to correctly arrange the crops in the garden. If you learn how to combine plantings well, you can grow a huge crop in a small area, and the land will not stand idle for a single day. This skill is also useful for those who do not have a land plot. On the loggia in a small box you can grow fresh vegetables for soups and salads.

Choose the Right Ancestors

Radishes, lettuces, onions, early herbs will be harvested in June. The bed is freed - you can plant other vegetables on it. The change of cultures needs to be thought out correctly: each species draws its components from the soil, and some plants enrich the earth with nutrients. During the second planting, it should be taken into account that the plantings following one after another do not have common infections and pests. It is advisable to follow the same rules when you decide how to sow a bed that was vacated last fall.

The same crops are not recommended to be grown in one place for a long time due to soil infection, but there is another reason. The roots not only supply the representatives of the flora with nutrients, they also serve as a system for excreting toxins and toxins formed during the life process. Usually, plants react poorly only to the excretions of their own species, plant peas after beets - and the soil will quickly clear.

Some plants, such as gourds, do not like fresh fertilizers; only well-rotted manure is suitable for them. Such vegetables should be planted in the area where root crops used to grow, requiring a large amount of organic matter for development.

The predecessors do not need to be removed before the second crop is planted. You can in early spring densely sow the ground in the greenhouse with radishes. By the time you need to plant tomato seedlings, make room for the bushes, and use the root crops for food. Tomatoes will grow, and you will gradually begin to remove from the garden and eat up the radishes. It turns out that at first the root crops were predecessors, and after planting tomatoes - joint plantings.

Examples of a good landing sequence:

carrots after gourds;
tomatoes and cucumbers after cruciferous plants;
potatoes after greens, carrots, cabbage;
pepper after greens or cabbage.

Wanted and unwanted neighbors

There are a lot of reasons why some plants can or cannot be planted with others. First of all, these are infections and pests. Plant potatoes next to eggplants and Colorado beetles will rush to the tasty garden, but bush beans will drive these pests away from both crops. Growing celery will lure cabbage whites, and odorous herbs will not let butterflies into the garden.

If you plant plants on the same bed, make sure that the crops have the same wishes for growing conditions. They should have similar moisture and nutrient requirements. It is desirable that each species take nutrition and moisture from its depth - for example, beans with a root that penetrates to a great depth, and potatoes with a shallow root system. If the crops are very different in height, such as corn and squash, try to arrange them so that there is enough sun for everyone.

What species can or cannot be planted next to each other, the table will tell you.

culture	good neighbors	bad neighbors
eggplant	Onions, beans	Garlic, tomatoes
Radish	Legumes, root vegetables, greens	cucumbers
Parsnip	Cabbage, radish, carrot
Zucchini	Radishes, corn	Potato
Cabbage	Greens, potatoes, carrots	Tomatoes, peas, strawberries
cucumbers	Corn, cabbage, beans	Spicy herbs, potatoes, peppers, strawberries
Carrot	Onion, garlic, peas, lettuce, cabbage, radish	Tomato, potato
Corn	Legumes and gourds, cabbage, lettuce	Beet
Potato	Carrots, corn, beets, lettuce	Tomato, strawberry, pumpkin
Pepper	Basil	cucumbers
Tomato	Greens, radishes, carrots, corn	Eggplant, cabbage, potatoes, pumpkin
Beet	Cabbage, cucumbers, onions, garlic, strawberries	Corn, beans, mustard

Joint plantings are sometimes practiced to mark the sowing site for seeds that take a long time to germinate. Make a carrot bed - stick radish seeds along the edges of the rows. It will take a while for the carrots to come up, but the radish leaves will show you where the rows are.

Long-term crops (late cabbage, pumpkin) need very little land at the beginning of development, and when the bushes grow, they will need space. Plant salads, radishes, early greens between seedling bushes. Compacted plantings will not let the earth be empty, and you will be provided with both early vitamins and an autumn harvest. On beds with late carrots, 3 crops can be harvested. Ready-to-eat vegetables are gradually removed, and the grown main culture becomes spacious.

If you want to try to organize mixed plantings of vegetables, the schemes may be different, for example:

1st row - carrots;
2nd row - bow;
3rd row - radish;
4th row - bow;
Repeat until the end of the beds from the 1st to the 4th rows.

There are individualistic plants that cannot get along with anyone. In the neighborhood with other cultures, they will either grow poorly themselves, or will oppress the vegetables living nearby. Fennel has the most quarrelsome character - allocate a place for it away from other beds. In the same way, they do not like hyssop and walnut neighbors; it is impossible to find compatible crops for them. Site planning should take into account individual places for such individuals.

How do plants help each other?

If you properly understand the properties of each culture, you can arrange them on the beds so that they support and activate the development of each other. For example, lettuce and spinach stimulate the development of the root system of nearby plantings. Legumes enrich the soil with nitrogen, they need to be planted among plants that need nitrates. Onions and garlic secrete phytoncides that destroy infections.

The mutual influence of some species on others has a lot of nuances; at the biological faculties, a whole course of lectures is devoted to this issue. Representatives of the flora are living beings, and in different conditions they can show their qualities more or less. Much also depends on the climate: in the southern regions, combined plantings can develop perfectly, and in the Urals, both cultures will wither and get sick. If you want to create a green community in your beds, watch, keep a diary. General recommendations can be taken as a basis, and how effective they are in your area can only be determined empirically.

If you need both crops that help each other when grown together, you can grow them on the same bed in approximately the same proportions. If you want to harvest only one species, and you do not need another, plant a few bushes in the center or around the perimeter of the plantation, this will be enough.

The following plants will be good green protectors.

Parsley will protect the vineyard from phylloxera.
Mustard inhibits weeds, drives pests away from legumes, its roots secrete compounds that activate the development of peas and beans.
Parsley keeps slugs away from strawberry and strawberry plantations.
Cabbage growing next to dill is less damaged by insects and becomes tastier.
Spicy herbs with their sharp aroma mask the smell of vegetable crops, and it becomes difficult for pests to find them.
Predatory insects flock to the parsnips, destroying pests.
The beans will provide the soil with the nutrients that the corn, which supports the beans, needs.
If you plant raspberries around an apple tree, the tree will protect the berry bushes from gray rot, and they, in turn, will prevent it from getting sick with scab.
Dill increases the duration of fruiting cucumbers.

Output

Mixed plantings not only save space on suburban area- at correct selection crops plantation will yield more yield from each bush than when filling the beds with one type of plant. On poor soils, alternate vegetables with legumes: nodules on the roots of peas and beans enrich the earth with nitrogen. Green manure has the same properties, you can sow mustard or around seedlings. At first, hardy grass will protect weak tomato bushes from the sun and wind, then you mow green manure, and the roots will continue to supply the soil with nutrients. When preparing for spring sowing, first make a list of all the plants that you will plant in the beds, and only then decide how they can be combined.

When practicing mixed planting of vegetables in the garden, one must take into account not only the compatibility of species, but also the conditions in which they will grow. Pumpkin gets along well with corn, but if you south side plant a solid wall of tall stems, the pumpkin will not have enough sunlight and it will give a very meager harvest. It is desirable that the depth of the roots of co-growing crops be different. In this case, each plant will take moisture and nutrients from its soil layer and will not deprive its neighbor.

The general rules for combined landings can not be applied to every site, the table will give only basic recommendations, and you must figure out the details yourself. Watch how the plants live in your garden, which neighbors they are happy with and which ones they would like to avoid, and this summer start preparing bed plans for next year. Be sure to write down your observations - next summer, most likely, you will completely forget how carrots and radishes or cabbage and potatoes got along. Every year, experience will accumulate, and then you will be able to remove as many vegetables from a small garden as you used to collect from the entire garden.

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