How to save rhizomes and flower bulbs bought in winter. How to save plants purchased in winter and early spring before planting in the garden How to save a daylily in winter

They are popular with gardeners and landscape designers for two main properties - beauty and unpretentiousness. Among the thousands of species of daylilies, it is difficult to single out the most attractive ones, since they all differ in bright and expressive colors during the flowering period. It is always hard to believe that a beautiful delicate flower can be unpretentious, but in the matter of caring for daylilies, this is true. A plant can grow for ten years without a transplant, bloom in partial shade and be picky about the soil, but it still needs minimal care, for example, before wintering. Let us consider in detail the topic of how to prepare a daylily for winter.

Basic information about the daylily

Daylily belongs to the family of lily plants. This flower was brought to Europe from Asia and successfully took root in new territories. An interesting feature of the plant is one-day flowering. Each flower lives only one day, but due to the fact that there are a lot of buds on the stem, flowering lasts a long time. This characteristic property can be used, . If you plant different varieties from the earliest to the latest, then the picturesque flowering will continue all summer. In order for this beauty to continue from year to year, it is important to responsibly approach the wintering of the daylily.

Autumn preparation - pruning daylilies

The fact that daylilies are often called flowers for the lazy is also confirmed in the issue of autumn-winter care. This plant is very winter-hardy and usually does not require complex manipulations. It is necessary to determine when to prune daylilies for the winter by the plant itself and its “behavior” in this season. Flower shoots are removed immediately after flowering. If the autumn is rainy, then wet flowers after withering may still remain on the stems, in which case it is also advisable to cut them. But with the leaves you should not rush. Full pruning of daylilies for the winter is carried out in late autumn, since the leaves tend to remain green and alive even in October-November. When they do wither, it is necessary to cut off all the above-ground part of the plants and remove them from the site in order to reduce the number of pests, rodents and the likelihood of diseases in the next season.

Wintering daylilies

In general, wintering and winterization of daylilies different varieties different, the degree of care depends on the characteristics of the variety. Some evergreen or semi-evergreen rare ornamental daylilies may not endure a very frosty winter, so they need shelter for prevention, more adopted varieties easily endure winter without outside interference. It is also important to consider sheltering daylilies for the winter if they were planted in the fall of the current year, as this will help the plants adapt. Suitable shelters include sawdust, straw, dry grass, dry peat, or spruce branches. Before you cover the daylilies for the winter, you need to make sure that it is finally established cold weather, because if the air temperature rises again, daylilies can stop, which will affect their condition much worse than a later shelter. There is another way to overwinter daylilies, perhaps not too easy, but suitable for areas where temperatures reach -35 ° C during the cold season. The idea is that at the end of November, the daylily rhizome just needs to be dug up and moved to a cold shelter, but more gentle, and planted again in the spring in the flower bed.

That's all the simple tips on how to prepare daylilies for the winter. If they are not neglected, then in spring the flowers will again delight with shoots.

From the end of January, or even earlier, sales of perennials begin in our stores. Huge selection: roses, lilies, daylilies, irises, peonies, tuberous begonias, echinacea and others. It's just that your eyes run wide ... Usually, amateur flower growers cannot resist and buy. And only then the question arises - how to save the pre-purchased planting material of flowers!

But what to do if we are put in such conditions. For when it comes planting season, there is practically nothing left in stores, or there is something left that you won’t look at without tears. It seems that manufacturers are absolutely indifferent to the fate of grown plants, the pursuit of money is in the first place. After all, they have every opportunity to fully preserve their "live" goods until spring. Plants are stored in special cold rooms at a certain temperature or in a state of light freezing.

Therefore, if you decide to purchase flower roots, then do not make mistakes at the first stage - purchase only plants recently brought to the store without any flaws!

In nature, a slow change is conceived climatic conditions: deep sleep - a slow gradual awakening, this starts the process of root formation, and then a gradual increase in heat and light, which will start the growth of green mass, which will be fed by already grown roots.

Let's go back to our conditions. Where to begin?

We carefully examine the acquired rhizomes and tubers. We pay the main attention to the condition of the roots, the root collar and the embryos of future sprouts. If damage or the beginning of decay is detected, it must immediately be cleaned to living tissue and processed. To do this, you can use fungicides - "Topaz", "Skor" and others, or fill up wounds charcoal, or cover with greenery.

If the purchased plants are in good condition and well initially packed (have a slightly damp filler, usually peat or sawdust), then the best way storage - put them in the basement, in a compartment where the temperature does not fall below zero or in the refrigerator in a box for storing vegetables and fruits. It is necessary to constantly monitor the condition of the plants!

If the store packaging is of poor quality, wrap the plant in slightly moistened sphagnum moss or peat, wrap in newspaper and pack in plastic bag, puncturing holes in it.

If your plants are damaged or have already sprouted, then after treating the wounds, the plants will have to be planted in pots. So that in the future it is easy and without damaging the root system to plant grown plants in the ground, before filling the pot with soil, cover it with a net, in which fruits and vegetables are usually sold. Lay it so that the mesh is larger than the height of the pot, when planting the plant, it will be enough to lift the edges of the mesh and remove the plant with a clod of earth from the pot and immediately transfer it to the planting hole. The soil should be light, loose and slightly moist. You can use purchased Violet peat, coconut substrate and add a little garden soil, vermiculite, wood ash. Spill the soil with a solution of potassium permanganate or Fitosporin. It is also better to keep pots with plants in a cool place for as long as possible at first. When, nevertheless, the plants wake up and sprouts appear, they will have to be moved to a bright place, but preferably a cool one.

Let's try to figure it out individually.

Plants with thick rhizomes, such as dahlias, peonies, irises, lilies, daylilies, gypsophila and the like, are best stored in a cool place until planted in the ground.

Plants that have less thickened roots, such as monards, hostas, astilbes, veronicas and the like, cannot be kept in the refrigerator until planting. After a little holding in the refrigerator, you still have to transplant into pots. But they need an initial cold period to bloom.

Plants with a fibrous rhizome, which does not have a moisture reserve, should be immediately planted in a pot in slightly moistened soil and cleaned in a cool place (basement, refrigerator), sometimes very rarely watered a little. This applies to phlox, Siberian irises, geyher, echinacea, aquilegia and the like.

The main reasons for the death of perennials stored until spring are diseases and inappropriate storage temperatures. A warm room atmosphere causes premature growth of the green above-ground part of the plant, the root system that has not awakened is not able to provide the plant with moisture and nutrition. By watering the plant, we only provoke the development of rot, and the plant dries up without receiving moisture. And the plant must be accustomed to bright light gradually.

Daylilies have been leading the rankings of popular perennials for many years. They have undeniable advantages: they are unpretentious in cultivation and care, decorative throughout the season, bloom for a long time, and the collection of varieties and hybrids includes tens of thousands of plants with flowers of various shapes and colors.

Selecting a landing site

It is believed that daylilies can grow anywhere, because in their homeland - in Far East they feel great in shady forest corners.

But in the temperate climate of central Russia, daylilies in partial shade will not have enough heat for luxurious flowering, and such a planting will not allow the plants to show all their capabilities. It is better for them to choose sunny, wind-protected areas.

It is desirable that the plants are fully lit for at least 5-6 hours a day. Daylilies with a delicate color of flowers need light throughout the day, and varieties with a rich and dark color in the heat need midday shading from fading.

The soil

The soil for daylilies should be neutral or slightly acidic. Land for plants is prepared in advance and carefully, because on permanent place daylilies have to grow for a long time - 6-15 years.

The soil is dug up to a depth of 30–35 cm. Compost, peat, and sand are added to heavy clay soil so that moisture does not stagnate. Sandy soils, on the contrary, are light and poorly retain water and nutrients, so they are enriched with humus, clay is added.

At close proximity ground water daylilies are planted on ridges 10–15 cm high.

How to choose high-quality planting material when buying?

Planting shops and garden centers offer daylily rhizomes. Before buying, you should carefully inspect the transparent plastic packaging and make sure that the root system is alive, healthy and dense. It should be noted that if there are few roots and they are weak and thin, then such a plant will gain strength for flowering for another 2-3 years. The rhizome should not have soft and rotten parts.

When buying new products, you should find out how the variety or hybrid is adapted to the local climate. Hundreds of new daylilies appear on the market each year. Most of these plants are bred in the subtropics of the United States and it may happen that in the middle Russian latitudes their acclimatization will be difficult, so experts often advise flower growers not to forget about old reliable and proven varieties.

Landing

An important point in the cultivation of daylilies is planting in the ground. It is held in the spring in May or early September. preferable spring planting, such plants take root better.

If the seedling was bought late in autumn or winter, then until planting, a healthy rhizome can be stored without loss for several months. Plants are placed until the awakening of the kidneys in a cool place with a temperature of 4-8°C.

Before planting, the dead and rotten parts of the roots are removed, for disinfection they are treated with a solution of any fungicide. If the planting material has been stored for a long time and the roots have dried up, then it is soaked for several hours in a solution of humate or root. Healthy roots with this treatment will quickly come to life, the withered parts will also be visible - they are cut off.

Landing holes in diameter should be larger than the root system. The distance between them, depending on the degree of growth of the bushes, is 0.5–1 m.

A nutrient mixture of compost, garden soil, peat is added to the prepared wells. Additionally, you can add mineral fertilizers and ash. The day before planting, it is advisable to shed the soil so that the earth settles a little.

In the center of the planting hole, a small hill is formed, on which the root collar is placed. It can not be deepened much, it will have a bad effect on flowering. The depth of the root collar should not be more than 2.5–3 cm. Roots are freely distributed around in the hole. The rhizome is carefully covered with earth, compacting the soil around the seedling and watered. In the first days after planting, the roots continue to be watered regularly.

Care

Watering

Moisture is especially important for plants in the spring when flower stalks are laid and in summer during flowering. Regular deep watering is preferable to frequent and superficial. Depending on weather conditions, the plants are watered once every 7–14 days. This mode of watering is enough for the roots to accumulate moisture. Watered in the morning or evening, trying not to get water on the delicate flower petals. After watering, the plants are weeded and loosened.

top dressing

If young daylilies are planted in fertile soil, then they do not need additional feeding in the first year. Due to excess nitrogen fertilizer, the plant will grow green leaves at the expense of flowering.

Fertilizers are applied in phases: at the beginning of spring growth, in the summer before flowering and at the beginning of autumn. In summer and autumn, top dressing should contain potassium and phosphorus, important nutrients necessary for laying future flowers in all peduncles.

Daylilies are very fond of liquid fertilizing with organomineral fertilizers. Dry mineral fertilizers are scattered around the bushes, then embedded in the soil and watered. The dosage depends on the age of the daylily and the type of soil.

Particular attention should be paid to old overgrown bushes, the soil around which is exhausted by flowering.

In old, overgrown bushes, the root neck becomes exposed over time, therefore, every year, humus is poured around the base with a layer of 2–3 cm.

Plants benefit from mulching around bushes. This improves the composition of the soil, prevents overheating, protects against frost and weeds. Dry peat, compost, crushed pine bark are used as mulch. Do not use fresh sawdust. To prevent wood mulch from becoming a haven for slugs, granules of pesticides or superphosphate are scattered around the plantings.

Transfer

In one place, daylilies can grow for a long time up to 15–20 years. During this time, the bush grows, ages, the flowers become smaller. This is noticeable after 7-8 years. Therefore, every 5-6 years, plants need to be rejuvenated. Daylilies can be transplanted throughout the season, but it is preferable to do this at the beginning of spring leaf growth - in April-May or in August-September with the onset of a dormant period. With a spring transplant, rooting will be faster and more successful.

How to cover flowers for the winter?

Daylilies tolerate wintering well in central Russia. Most people have enough natural snow cover. But for the reliability of planting heat-loving daylilies in the fall, they mulch with a layer of 2-3 cm or cover with spruce branches. Also, bushes can be spudded with earth up to 15–20 cm in height. Previously, the entire dry aerial part is cut off. Shelter is especially important in the first year for young fall plantings.

With the advent of spring, the shelter is removed, the mulch is raked from the base of the bushes so that it does not interfere with the growth of new shoots.

reproduction

Daylilies are propagated by dividing the bush, seeds, stem cuttings.

The division of the bush

This is the most common way in which the plant retains all parental characteristics. There are several ways to separate daylilies: with digging up bushes or without extracting it from the ground.

The bush is completely dug out along with the root. The rhizome is washed with water. It is so easy to get rid of pests, all parts are clearly visible and it is convenient to divide the plant. Then the peduncle and leaves are removed, leaving shoots 10–15 cm high. The old bushes are dried, then the plant is cut into pieces so that each has a part of the root neck with a bud. In order for delenki to form more decorative greenery, 3–5 shoots are left on them.

It is problematic to divide strongly overgrown bushes. In such plants, young roots grow along the edges of the bushes, and these parts, after separation, will quickly take root. Delenki from the middle of the bush without young roots need time to grow, because these parts are more injured. There are more dead and long roots that are cut. Delenki from the middle of the bush are planted on a temporary bed, and after 1-2 years - on a permanent place.

Young rosettes can be separated from loose daylily bushes at the end of summer without resorting to digging up the mother bush. To do this, choose two or three-year-old bushes with their own roots.

Without digging in the spring, it is possible to divide not very growing varieties of daylilies. With a sharp shovel from a vertical position, cut a bush along the marked lines, then cut it from below and remove the pieces from the ground. This method requires experience and skill. Places of cuts on the roots are sprinkled with wood ash.

Reproduction by seeds

This method of reproduction is more often used by breeders to obtain new varieties and hybrids. Daylily seeds do not last long. Plantings are carried out before winter with freshly harvested seeds or in spring on next year. Daylily seeds need cold stratification. With winter sowing, this procedure will take place in the soil in a natural way. In spring, the seeds are preliminarily kept at low temperatures of 2–3 ° C for a month. They are closed to a depth of 2–3 cm. Flowering in daylilies grown from seeds begins at 2–3 years.

Propagation by stem cuttings

In some varieties that bloom in August, 1-3 new bushes form in the axils of the peduncles. When they grow, they will have several pairs of leaves and root tubercles. After the peduncle has dried, the rosettes are carefully separated from the mother bush. You can cut off the cuttings with a piece of stem 3–5 cm. The leaves on the rosettes are shortened by a third, then the cuttings are planted in a nutrient substrate for rooting. At first, they make sure that the soil does not dry out, periodically spray it, shade the plants.

Diseases and pests

Daylilies are lucky, they are different good health, resistant to disease and rarely attacked by pests.

Of the diseases, the main danger for daylilies is. Its pathogens can be bacteria or fungi, and the cause is waterlogging of the soil.

Signs of the disease are stunted growth and yellowing of the leaves. They become lethargic, sticky, easily detached from the base. Urgent measures are taken immediately at the first symptoms of the disease. The plant is completely dug up. The roots are washed in a solution of potassium permanganate, all the affected parts are cut out with a sharp knife, and then the sections are sprinkled with a fungicide.

Of the pests before flowering, it causes problems daylily mosquito. It reproduces by laying eggs in buds. Damaged buds do not grow, they are deformed. They are cut off and destroyed.

Wintering in the soil scoop caterpillars in early spring can damage and destroy young shoots and plant buds. Pests are destroyed by weeding aisles, treating daylilies with insecticides. The use of poisoned baits is also effective.

In any garden you can find a small corner for daylilies. This is a grateful plant. For minimal care, it will delight its owners with beautiful flowering. Daylilies are good not only in flower beds, in borders or on, in bouquets they look no less festive and luxurious!

You can find out the tips of experienced flower growers on growing daylilies by watching the video.

It's hard to find a flower bed suburban area where there are no daylilies. These flowers have gained immense popularity among flower growers of all countries due to their beauty, diversity and unpretentiousness. However, even they need, albeit minimal, but proper care autumn and preparation for winter.

Note! Daylilies are not a flowerbed of lilies or its second name, but a completely separate genus of plants (not bulbous, like a lily, but rhizomatous). Do not confuse!

So, the main autumn activities for preparing daylilies for winter include the following:

• removal of faded flower stalks (so that the plant does not waste energy on the ripening of seeds);
• transplant (division and seating);
• top dressing (optional and necessary, if you want to improve flowering for next year);

Autumn fertilizer, i.e. potassium-phosphorus.

• leaf pruning (recommended for everyone);
• mulching and/or shelter (only in cold and snowless regions).

Yes, it's that simple and it won't take long.

Transplanting daylilies after flowering

After the daylilies have faded (around August) - it's time to divide and transplant them.

Interesting! Although daylilies are often transplanted in the spring - in April.

How to divide and plant daylilies after flowering:

• Trim the foliage (or do it after planting).

In order for the plant to take root faster and better in a new place, it should not spend extra precious forces on green mass, therefore the aerial part is always shortened.

• Dig around the bushes around the perimeter and get them out of the ground.
• Divide into several parts, as a rule, into 2-3 large ones or into separate sections.

• Choose a new landing site (optimally sunny).
• Prepare a planting pit (mix garden soil with humus or compost, potash fertilizer, for example, potassium sulfate).
• Water, let the moisture soak in and put the delenka in the center of the pit.

• Fall asleep with earth, water again, let it soak and pour the soil again.

Video: how to grow and propagate daylilies (divide and replant)

Daylily pruning in autumn

Perhaps the autumn pruning of withered foliage is the only recommended activity that everyone should do when preparing daylilies for winter.

Why prune daylilies in the fall

Daylilies are pruned in autumn for the following purposes:

• prevent possible leaf rot(late autumn - early winter and early spring during thaws), which can provoke root rot.
• Pruning is good disease and pest prevention, because together with cut leaves, you take out pathogens and pest larvae from the bush.

When to prune daylilies in autumn: the best timing

It is necessary to prune daylilies on the eve of stable sub-zero temperatures or immediately after they are established. Depending on the climate in your area, October-November is a good time.

Important! Do not prune daylilies in the fall ahead of time. The fact is that too early pruning can provoke the growth of the aerial part of the plant - the appearance of new leaves.

How to prune daylilies for the winter

IN autumn pruning daylilies there is nothing difficult:

• With a sharp pruner, cut off all the leaves at a height of 10-15 cm from the ground.

Important! Just do not cut too short (i.e. without leaving stumps at all - under the root), because. this can provoke the plant to resume growth during periods of thaw.

• Further, all cut foliage must be raked and taken to compost heap or take it out of the site and burn it (if the leaves are severely affected by diseases and pests).

Shelter daylilies for the winter

Do I need to cover daylilies for the winter

Most of the perennial flowers need to be covered for the winter, however, daylilies belong to plants with high winter hardiness, so no shelter for them, usually not required. Especially if there are snowy winters in your area, because snow is the best shelter for many perennials.

However, if the climate of your growing region is characterized by prolonged severe frosts and snow rarely falls, then it is still worth warming the daylilies, especially since if they were planted this fall because they have not yet had time to get stronger and adapt to new conditions environment and may freeze.

How to cover daylilies for the winter

Most often, it will be enough to mulch your daylilies with a layer of 5-8 cm mulch, which can be used as straw, dry leaves, rotted sawdust.

If more serious insulation is required, then you can put spruce branches on top of the mulch or even cover daylilies with non-woven covering material.

Thus, now you know that daylilies are a fairly unpretentious and winter-hardy flower culture, but it still needs some preparation for wintering. Of course, you can let things take their course and not care for the flowers at all in the fall, but you love your daylilies and you don’t want something to happen to them.

Video: how to prepare daylilies for winter

In contact with

Daylily is native to East Asia. This plant has been known to mankind since ancient times, but for the first time science started talking about the daylily in 1753. The Swedish researcher Carl Linnaeus named the plant "Hemerokallis", combining two Greek words: "hemera" (day, day) and "callos" (beauty). This name meant that the beauty of the plant lives only one day.

Not only daylily cultivars are famous for their amazing beauty, but also the “savages” that grow in the wild. Daylily flowers are extremely unpretentious, so much so that even flower growers themselves call it a plant of a lazy gardener.

Thanks to the efforts of American and Australian breeders, the daylily in last years literally turned out to be at the “peak of fashion”. Despite the fact that the new plant species turned out to be more “capricious”, their incredible beauty compensates for the time and effort spent.

Did you know? The great popularity of the daylily among gardeners around the world has contributed to the breeding of hybrid varieties. This happened in the first half of the 20th century thanks to the efforts of the famous American botanist Earl Stout.

Daylilies are very demanding plants, their planting and care in open ground interested in both beginners and experienced gardeners.

The main advantage of the daylily is the time of its planting in the ground. It is very long and covers the period from early spring to late autumn. The choice of the most favorable time for planting a daylily directly depends on the climatic zone, and this fact should not be overlooked.

If your latitudes are distinguished by the early and rapid onset of winter, then the daylily, which was planted in the fall, may not have time to take root before the first frost and simply die. On average, this plant takes a month for reliable rooting. If you stop at garden forms with an early or medium flowering period, then even in the regions far from the south, the daylily planted by you will have time to fully prepare for the winter period.

Important! According to experienced gardeners, the most suitable time for planting a daylily in the middle lane is the last months of spring and summer - May and August.

Planting in autumn

How to plant a daylily in the autumn? Planting a daylily is no different from planting any other plant. To do this, you need to dig a hole 30 cm deep. Then carefully place the roots of the plant in it and bury it with earth to the root neck, after which be sure to water it.

When planting in the fall, do not forget to cover the daylily with straw or hill it with earth along with leaf humus. This will reliably protect the plant from cold weather and excessive moisture getting into the roots.

Planting in the spring

Daylilies can be planted at the very beginning of spring, the main thing is that the soil is warm enough and frost does not occur. Of course experienced gardeners know how to plant a daylily in spring, but what about newbies?

The first thing to start with is the preparation of the landing pit. Assume that the plant will stay in this place for at least 5 years, during which it will continuously grow and increase in size. The daylily should not be cramped at the place of its landing. If the soil in your area is saturated with useful substances, then the hole for the daylily should be of such a size that the roots of the plant can easily fit in it. If the soil is dry and heavy, then the pit should be 2 times larger, and leaf humus or compost mixed with sand should be laid on its bottom. You do not know how to save the daylily until planting in the spring? Just wrap the cutting in newspaper, put it in the refrigerator, and it will keep perfectly until planting.

After the hole is prepared, form a small pyramid of soil at its bottom. Place a daylily seedling on top of it, and gently spread the roots down the sides of this pyramid. Sprinkle the hole with earth, at the same time lightly crush it with your hands and be sure to water it with water. After planting, the root neck of the plant should be in the ground at a depth of no more than 2-2.5 cm, if you do not follow this rule, then the daylily will not bloom well. Also remember that the distance between planted daylilies should be at least one meter.

Selecting a landing site

Daylily is a plant that loves sunny and well-lit places. You can break up an entire flower bed or plant daylilies along the paths, thus creating a bright and colorful carpet of “gramophone flowers”. The peculiarity of the daylily is that the lighter the color of its petals, the more sunlight it can receive. All daylilies have a certain shade, and the leaves of a daylily planted in direct sunlight quickly acquire White color. Darker types of daylilies are best planted in light partial shade, because due to the bright sun, all the saturated colors of the petals will quickly fade and become less beautiful and attractive.

Lighting and temperature

As mentioned above, daylilies love lit places, but planting in direct sunlight should be avoided.

The growing season of the daylily begins quite early. This happens when the snow melts and the frost ends, when the temperature does not drop below 0°C at night. Usually the awakening of daylilies begins in mid-April. In autumn, night temperatures can drop to -3°C, which causes daylily leaves to wither. With early autumn frosts, the leaves of the flowers of the plant do not even have time to turn yellow and immediately wither. If the summer is cold, then the daylily blooms noticeably worse. The buds of the plant become small and do not open fully, or may not open at all, simply withering and falling off. High summer temperatures significantly shorten the flowering time of the daylily and burn the ends of its leaves.

What kind of soil does the daylily like?

The composition of the soil in which the daylily is grown does not play a big role for this crop. The plant is quite enough ordinary garden soil. If such soil is not too nutritious, then it can be easily fertilized with compost or various mineral compositions. As a rule, such compositions are sold in any flower or garden store. If the soil is too heavy and dense, then it can be slightly diluted with ordinary sand so that excessive moisture does not stagnate in it. The daylily can also grow in sand, but in this case it requires more frequent watering, since the water in such soil evaporates rather quickly.

How to plant a flower

Before you start planting a daylily, it must be lowered for a while into water with diluted growth stimulants. As such stimulants, drugs such as Zircon, Epin, Gumat, etc. are suitable.

Since the daylily is a perennial crop, the place for planting it should be selected and prepared with great care. This plant needs a fairly large amount of space in the flower bed. So, the hole for planting a daylily should be at least 30 cm deep. Also, it is necessary to first pour a peat-humus mixture into this hole, and then add a small amount of potassium-phosphorus fertilizer. After that, the daylily is carefully immersed in the hole. The plant should be planted to the level of its root collar. The entire remaining space of the hole should be sprinkled with garden soil, and then it must be compacted and watered thoroughly.

Important! If moisture is quickly absorbed, then this indicates that the soil was not compacted enough. In this case, simply add dry soil and compact the soil well.

How to water a daylily in a flower bed

Daylily is a plant that requires high-quality watering. With a lack of moisture, its flowering worsens significantly, and the buds become dull and small.

Particularly carefully watering rules should be observed during the growing season. The rate of moisture directly depends on the soil in which the daylily grows. In order for the daylily not to experience a moisture deficit, it is necessary to regularly monitor the soil around the stems - it should not dry out. For irrigation, it is preferable to use a large amount of water to moisten the soil to a depth of half a meter.

Daylilies need to be watered at least once a week. If the daylily grows in light sandy soil, then it should be watered more often, and it is also advisable to mulch the soil around the plant to slow down the evaporation of moisture.

Watering is best done in the evening, but before dark. It is not recommended to pour water directly on the buds and leaves of the plant, as this can stain them. Water the plant at the very root, using an ordinary garden watering can with a tip in the form of a wide nozzle - so the water jet will not wash the earth out from under the daylily root.

Top dressing and fertilizer daylily

Fertilizer and top dressing of the daylily is carried out after studying the composition of the soil, after which fertilizer is selected.

The main rule is that any fertilizers are applied no earlier than 2 weeks after the rooting of the plant. A young plant will need 2-3 top dressings per season, an older (5-6 years old) and abundantly flowering daylily needs 4-5 top dressings.

• At the beginning of spring, the daylily is fed with a full complex mineral fertilizers. The most common is NPK 16:16:16 (diluted in proportion: 1 tablespoon of granules per 10 liters of water).
• In April and May, in order to increase the intensity of growth, are added complex fertilizers containing a large amount of nitrogen (diammonium phosphate, ammophos, nitroammophosphate).
• In summer, when the daylily blooms, it can be fed with organic matter. For this, a solution of mullein, chicken manure or fermented grass is suitable.
• At the end of flowering (beginning of autumn), fertilizer is carried out with sulfate with ash, or nitroammophos - it depends on the climate. Such top dressing has a positive effect on increasing the size of the flowers and their number in the new season.

How to properly propagate a plant

Daylily is enough unpretentious plant, capable of growing without a transplant in one place for 12-15 years. But this is undesirable, because after a certain time the flowers will become noticeably smaller, and the bush will take on a somewhat neglected appearance. And an old, overgrown bush after its transplantation can get sick and die. To avoid such problems, it is worth starting division and transplanting once every 5-6 years. Daylily can be propagated using several basic methods, each of which has both advantages and disadvantages.

Did you know? The Germans jokingly say that the daylily is a flower of intelligent lazy people, that is, gardeners who prefer beautiful plants that do not require long work on their cultivation.

seed method

Reproduction of daylilies by seeds is a fairly common method among gardeners. Daylily seeds can quickly lose their germination capacity, which is why freshly harvested seeds are best planted in the autumn. The sowing process is very simple and does not require any special tools and skills. Take the seeds and sow them in the prepared soil (fertilized and dug up), deepening them to a depth of 2 cm. If, for some reason, you did not have time for the autumn sowing, then it can be transferred to the spring, stratification of seeds (imitation of natural conditions for their awakening).

Vegetative methods

As already mentioned, the best time for daylily propagation is spring. In autumn, they can also be transplanted, but daylily cuttings should be large.

Reproduction of daylilies by cuttings begins with the selection of a heavily overgrown bush, which is time to replant. Dig up a bush and, using a pruner or garden shears, cut off all the green mass and leave stumps about 15-20 cm high. Trimming the greens is necessary in order to restore the balance between the greens and damaged roots.

Now you can start dividing the bush. This can be done using a pitchfork, dividing the daylily bush into small cuttings. If you don't have a fork handy, you can try doing it by hand. Then dig a hole along the length of the cutting and pour a small handful of potassium sulphate into the bottom of the hole, as daylilies need slightly acidic soil. Place the cutting in the hole to the level of the root neck, carefully sprinkle with earth, tamp, and then water it.

A little trick to make the daylily bloom faster

Did you know that by planting hybrid daylilies, you can contribute to the rapid appearance of additional shoots in them, thus causing the bush to grow? As soon as the seedlings of the hybrid daylily reach a height of 5-6 cm, cut them about half. Such a simple manipulation will force the plant to give a bush with a large number of layering and multiply the number of peduncles.

Daylily - a real decoration garden plot. Give him a little attention, and he will delight you with his iridescent colors from early spring to late autumn!