PETUNIA IN WINTER: HOW TO SAVE PETUNIA UNTIL SPRING The cold weather is approaching, and the petunia on your site or balcony continues to delight in lush color. Soon this beauty will come to an end, but it's a pity ... Well, there is nowhere to go from the cycle of seasons, but you can try to save the petunia bushes for the winter. Petunia, at its core, is a heat-loving perennial, therefore, by creating “southern” conditions for it, we can extend its life. So, now we will reveal the secret of how to save a petunia in winter. Wintering petunias - an action for the elite We hasten to warn you right away: keeping petunia bushes in winter is not an easy task. Although, this is the best way out if you want to keep a particularly expensive, luxurious variety that does not produce seeds or does not retain all its properties in daughter plants. For example, this is useful for surfinia, supertunia and many other F1 hybrids. There are 2 options for preserving petunias for the winter: in the form of mother plants in the form of cuttings Option No. 1. Preservation of mother petunia bushes in winter Adult petunia bushes can be preserved until spring if they are moved to a bright and frost-free room. It should be light, humid enough, optimal t = 10-15 ° C (but less will do, the main thing is that the temperature does not fall below 0 ° C). Suitable conditions are on closed verandas, insulated or southern loggias, on window sills of entrances. Petunia bushes are dug up, transplanted into pots and brought into the room. You need to have time to do this before frost, that is, in September-November. Dry leaves, damaged, rotten branches are cut off from the plant. A cardinal haircut is also practiced: all branches are cut to 10-15 cm. A petunia bush can overwinter on a cold windowsill. The main conditions for caring for petunia bushes in winter are: minimal watering (up to 2-3 times a month); lack of fertilizers; high air humidity; temperature 10-15°C; good lighting. In such conditions, petunias safely survive the winter and bloom in mid-February! Then more frequent watering and fertilizing can be “introduced” into the diet. A petunia bush that has survived the winter is planted in open ground or in balcony containers. Or they act differently: they propagate the petunia by cuttings and grow young petunia plants. The latter option is more common among flower growers. It is believed (and not unreasonably!) that young petunias bloom better than sophomores. How are cuttings of petunias carried out? In the spring, cuttings of 5-10 cm are cut from the overwintered petunia bush - green, not lignified. The lower leaves on the handle are cut off so that a bare stem 1-3 cm long remains at the base. It is important that there is at least 1 pair of internodes in this area. 2-3 leaves should remain at the top of the cutting. If they are large, then their plates are cut across half - to reduce the evaporation of moisture. Petunia cuttings Petunia cuttings are planted in loose soil, preferably with baking powder. Pure vermiculite or peat can be used for rooting. The bare part of the stem is deepened into moist, loose soil. Petunia cuttings: planting cuttings in the ground The leaves of the cuttings can be cut in half to reduce moisture loss through the leaf plates. A vapor barrier is arranged on top to keep high humidity around the cuttings. For example, cover the planting container with a plastic cup, glass jar or glass. Every day, the "greenhouse" is aired - to prevent the appearance of mold, rot, black legs on the handle. Preservation of petunias by cuttings under the "greenhouse" For ventilation, holes are made in the bottom of the plastic cup - "greenhouse" After about 10-14 days, young shoots will appear in the axils of the cuttings - this means that rooting has taken place! The greenhouse is removed, the cuttings continue to grow in the same way as petunia seedlings: watered, fertilized, sprayed. Above 5-6 leaves, young plants are pinched for tillering. Overwintering of petunias by cuttings After 2 weeks, new shoots appear in the leaf axils of petunia cuttings. - in open ground or in balcony containers. Flowering of petunia cuttings Flowering of petunia cuttings grown from a "second-year" uterine bush Option No. 2. Saving petunias in winter by cuttings Keeping petunia mother liquor in winter requires special conditions - high humidity and low temperatures. In a city apartment, with a non-glazed (or glazed, but cold northern) balcony, such a climate is almost impossible to recreate. In living quarters, there are more chances of survival not for adult petunias, but for rooted cuttings. They do not need special conditions and you need to care for them in the same way as for indoor flowers. This method will also help those flower growers who do not want to clutter up verandas, balconies and loggias in winter with large containers with petunia mother liquors. Cuttings in cups on the windowsills take up very little space! For winter storage, petunias are cut in late August-September. This petunia propagates easily by cuttings, since the life processes in it have not yet been slowed down. Roots appear in 5-10 days after planting. Cuttings 5-10 cm long are cut from petunias, planted in cups, covered with a "greenhouse". After rooting, they are placed in a cool, bright place. For example, on the windowsill, closer to the glass. To increase the humidity of the content, a jar of water can be placed near young petunias. Young petunia cuttings in winter Young petunia cuttings in winter require as much attention as ordinary indoor flowers. The main conditions for keeping rooted petunia cuttings in winter: sufficient watering - after drying the topsoil; spraying; lack of fertilizers; increase in air humidity (tanks with water next to the cuttings). In the spring, cuttings that have already taken shape in young petunia bushes can be transferred to balcony containers or planted in a flower bed. You can also cut them again and grow the required amount from new cuttings. planting material. Overwintered petunia cuttings Overwintered cuttings bloom already with the first rays of the warm sun - in February or early March Benefits of keeping petunias in winter (cuttings or mature plants) An adult "second-year" plant or cuttings taken from it can bloom as early as February-March. And this will happen even in the northern regions, such as the Urals, Siberia, etc. ease in obtaining adult seedlings. To do this, you do not need to sow small seeds, nurse frail sprouts. The planted stalk, after 2-2.5 weeks, will already bloom. preservation until spring of vegetatively propagating varieties of petunias.

If you have a place on a cool and well-lit windowsill or in an insulated loggia, try to save the most valuable varieties of petunias. It is not difficult to do this. For example, surfinia will overwinter in a hanging basket, and simple petunias in a balcony box. But first they need to be prepared.

First, make a strong pruning. As in the first photo. On the second pruning was done 2 weeks ago and because of the warm weather the box stood outside, so the petunia began to grow actively. Low pruning is needed so that the plant does not become depleted in not very favorable housing conditions.

Secondly, remove a layer of soil in pots of about 2-3 cm and add fresh soil.

Thirdly, to protect against diseases and pests. I put the pots in the big one plastic bag, I spray with Aktellik and immediately tie it up. A day later, I open the package, wipe the pot with a damp cloth, air the plant in the fresh air, and only after that I bring it into the house. For prevention, I bury a glyocladin tablet and a fertilizer stick with an insecticide in each pot.

Further care is to ensure that the plant has enough light, regular watering, top dressing every 2 weeks with a solution of phosphorus-potassium fertilizer. If during the period when the plants are brought into the house it is cloudy, then I spray the bushes with a solution of epin or zircon. And in any case, such processing will only benefit.

From mid-January, I begin to add nitrogen to top dressing, I always spray zircon 2 times with an interval of 3 weeks. Growing shoots already in the second half of February I begin to cut and root. In cases with ordinary petunias, the most valuable and especially liked varieties will definitely be in my garden in the new season in the quantity that I need. Well, a bonus - savings on seeds.

Petunia is well known to flower growers, it is grown on household plots and on the balconies. And with regret they dig up every year, so that next year they will grow again from seeds. These flowers are considered an annual, but in fact they are perennials. And if you provide certain conditions, you can save especially valuable specimens in the winter in the apartment. Knowing how to do this, you can grow your favorite variety for years without much hassle.

Wintering petunias

Petunias were brought from South America; many species and hybrids are currently known. For example, F1 (surfinias, superpetunias and other hybrids of this series) do not retain their properties on daughter plants. This pattern is often observed during propagation by seeds: the most reliable way preserve hereditary traits - vegetative reproduction. Some specimens, for example, terry varieties, do not produce seeds, there are often problems with their germination. Since this flower is actually a perennial, you can pick it up for the winter and in a pot and overexpose it until the onset of heat. And next year, get young and healthy specimens of the variety you like.

home content

To save petunias does not require much effort. The main thing is to create optimal conditions for wintering. It is enough to take them home for the winter and settle on glazed balcony, well-lit frost-free cellar or insulated veranda with south side. Or put on the windowsill in the entrance, if possible. In order for petunias to winter well, it is necessary:

• keep them at a temperature of +10 - +12 0 ( temperature regime can be raised or lowered by a couple of degrees);
• water regularly, preventing the soil from completely drying out;
• provide humidity, for example, put water nearby;
• put the pots on a well-lit windowsill or keep under artificial light.

Important: in order to keep the plant in the winter in the apartment, it is necessary to carefully examine it before bringing it into the room. In early autumn, whiteflies and other pests may lay their eggs on the underside of the leaves. If an infected plant gets into the house, it will die, and the pests will move to other flowers and seedlings.

Wintering benefits:

• early flowering: buds will appear already in early spring, when grown from seeds, they appear no earlier than the end of May;
• maternal signs persist;
• you can get a lot of cuttings and propagate the variety;
• you do not have to germinate seeds and care for young sprouts.

mother bushes

To make a perennial out of a petunia, you need to take it home for the winter. To do this, even before frost, in September - October, the flower should be dug up and, together with a clod of earth, transplanted into a pot. Then leave for a couple of days outdoors to reduce stress after transplantation.

Transplant rules:

• Pruning: all dry and damaged branches are pruned. You can cut off all the branches on the bush, leaving a length of 10-15 cm.
• Transplantation: pour drainage, nutrient soil with compost into the pot, be sure to remove a layer of 2-3 cm from the earth clod and add fresh soil.
• Inspection: Leaves should be checked for pests before being brought into the home.
• Prevention: pots should be placed in a plastic bag and sprayed with Aktelik or another similar agent. Tie the bag and leave for a day, then wipe with a damp sponge and ventilate. For additional protection, you can bury a fertilizer stick with an insecticide and a glycoclandin tablet in the soil.

At home, the mother bush is provided with optimal conditions (temperature, humidity, lighting). Watering should be as the soil dries out, at least 2-3 times a month. Such wintering conditions will not allow the bush to die, and, at the same time, will not allow premature growth and exhaustion. In feeding during this period, the mother plant does not need.

Tip: during wintering, you can spray the mother liquor with zircon or epin a couple of times.

By the end of January, you can begin to awaken the plant. To do this, it is transferred to the most illuminated place, watering is established and they begin to feed every two weeks. complex fertilizers with nitrogen. With such care, flowering can be expected by mid-February. In the spring, after the onset of stable heat, the mother liquor is transferred to permanent place landings. At the same time, young cuttings can be obtained. Strong young shoots are cut off (it is possible with a heel, but this is not necessary). Prepare cuttings as follows:

• green cuttings are cut into 10 cm each;
• it is necessary to leave 2 internodes;
• the upper leaves are left, the lower ones are removed;
• then, for rooting, they are placed in containers with fertile, well-loosened, moist soil and peat or vermiculite to a depth of 2 cm (you can put the cuttings in water that needs to be changed every day);
• containers are covered with plastic or a glass jar and ventilated daily; for better air exchange, several holes can be made at the bottom.

In two weeks, the cuttings germinate and take root. Containers are opened, young sprouts are constantly watered, sprayed and fertilized. For better tillering, the top should be pinned. Landing on open ground is carried out after stable weather is established and the temperature rises to +10 0.

cuttings

To keep the petunias up next year, it is not necessary to leave the entire mother bush. You can prepare cuttings in the fall and send home for the winter. Cuttings are carried out in late August - early September. For this, green, non-lignified branches 5–10 cm long are cut off. They are placed in water or in cups with soil. When rooting in the ground, it is better to make a greenhouse, cover with another plastic cup. It will take 10-14 days for roots to appear. At this time, they need to be provided with light and moisture and heat (+20 - +23 0).

After rooting, the sprouts are placed in standard wintering conditions for petunias. They should not be actively watered or fed; young bushes are kept in the same way as mother plants. With the onset of spring, they are transplanted by transshipment to a permanent place. If necessary, new cuttings can be cut before transplanting.

Petunia is a perennial plant in the nightshade family. Often grown as an annual. There are many varieties of petunias that differ from each other in color and shape of flowers. It can have the following colors: red, yellow, white, cream, blue, blue, purple and many other shades.

In the form of a petunia, it happens:

• ampelous;
• bush;
• cascading.

Bushes can be miniature (up to 30 cm), and can reach 70 cm.

REFERENCE! Petunia is a "relative" of tobacco. Her homeland is South America. It was brought to Europe in the 18th century.

Features of growing on the street

Petunia is a fairly thermophilic plant. However, some varieties and hybrids can tolerate cold snaps. As a rule, in central Russia it is planted in open ground in the second half of May. Flowering seedlings are allowed to be planted earlier - at the end of April or the first half of May. Outdoor petunia pleases with its flowering from mid-summer to late autumn.

Petunia can be planted in the ground with seeds and seedlings. The second option is most often used. For a beginner florist early stages easier to buy ready-made seedlings.

For planting petunias, you must choose a bright, calm area. It also tolerates partial shade well. A few days before planting seedlings, you need to fertilize the soil with humus, and 3-4 days before it is recommended to take it outside. Landing is carried out in the evening or on a warm cloudy day.

The distance between the holes depends on the plant variety. The optimal distance between them:

• 18 - 20 cm - small varieties;
• 20 - 25 cm - large varieties;
• 25 - 35 cm - bush varieties.

Before removing the seedlings from the container, you must first water it well. They are planted in the hole along with an earthen clod. The soil around the seedling is compacted and watered abundantly with warm water, and sprinkled with peat or humus on top. The first couple of days after planting, the petunia should be protected from direct sunlight.

ATTENTION! You can not fertilize the beds before planting petunias with fresh manure, as it can provoke fungal diseases.

How to care for a flower?

The correct one includes the following key aspects:

1. Loosening.
2. Formation of the bush (s).

The above aspects of petunia care are relevant at any time of the year, however, each period has its own characteristics.

We talked in detail about caring for a flowering plant, and from you you will learn what to do if the petunia does not bloom.

In August

An important element of petunia care is, which is produced in August. During this period, the plant spends a lot of energy on the formation of seeds. It is necessary to remove all wilted flowers from the bush. If the petunia shoots have grown strongly, have become heavy, they must also be cut off. This will give an aesthetic appearance to the bush and will positively affect its general condition. Trimming can be done with scissors or gently remove excess with your hands.

What to do in autumn?

In late August - early September, the petunia must be dug out along with an earthen clod and transplanted into pots. Their diameter must be at least 15 cm. Dried leaves and sprouts must be removed. Experienced flower growers recommend cutting the shoots, leaving 10 - 15 cm from their length.

Having placed pots with plants in a cool room, it is necessary to provide them with care. During the autumn period, the plants will take root well and will be able to survive the winter.

is to ensure optimal temperature conditions. The air temperature in the room should be at the level of + 10 - 12 degrees. If it is higher than these indicators, it is necessary to provide it with illumination up to 12 hours daily. Those. the higher the temperature, the more light the plant needs.

Water the petunias winter period needed as needed. If the leaves begin to fall - this is a signal for action.

Top dressing is rarely done in winter, about a couple of times over the entire period with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers. At the same time, processing is carried out several times from spider mite special preparations.

IMPORTANT! In winter, the petunia may look withered and weakened. But don't discount it. In spring, the plant will again delight with its healthy appearance.

spring

Petunia care in the spring is to prepare it for propagation by cuttings. This will be discussed below.

Possible problems and diseases

The most common pests and diseases for petunias are:

• Aphid. The main symptoms of the appearance of aphids are leaf deformation, wilting. You can diagnose it by the appearance of brilliant dew. In such cases, it is necessary to treat the plant by special means(for example, Aktara, Taran, Kemifos).
• Whitefly. Appears on the lower parts of the leaves and resembles a moth. It causes wilting and yellowing of the leaves. They are treated from whiteflies with Taran or Aktara.
• Spider mite. The leaves of affected plants lighten and subsequently become covered with dark dots. To combat the tick, they are treated with Demitan or Apollo.
• Powdery mildew. Plants affected by this disease are covered with a white bloom. New leaves grow twisted, and old ones fall off. The main reason for the appearance of the fungus is the wrong one. Plants are treated with fungicide treatment (Forecast, Vitaros, Previkur).

After wintering, it is necessary to take care of transplanting petunias from pots, or rather, their reproduction. For this you need:

reproduction

Petunia can also be propagated by cuttings in the summer.

1. Side cuttings (7-10 cm) with 3-4 true leaves are cut from a healthy plant.
2. The cuttings are planted in separate pots, watered and covered with jars. It is necessary to maintain optimal soil moisture and carry out regular ventilation. Favorable temperature for rooting - 22 - 23 degrees Celsius.
3. After the formation of leaves, pinching is done, and then planted in open ground.

It is impossible to call the process of growing petunias quite easy, since there are many nuances and difficulties in this matter. However, with the right approach and following the recommendations, it is quite possible. And then all the work and efforts will pay off with the wonderful flowering of petunias.

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Why is a photo of a petunia purple or what to do with a petunia in autumn

How do I save cuttings and petunia in the fall. Revealing a secret

Read a useful post on how to prolong the life of a petunia in the fall and meet the new season with numerous plant specimens. There are never too many petunias! I always want to have them - more and more!

You also probably thought that the summer is short and there are many plants left there that could still bloom? Do you have favorite rare petunias that you got with difficulty and do not propagate by seeds, but you want to keep them? So you are a crazy gardener like me! Now it is already real autumn and from 2 dozen petunias they were cut (left about 10-15 cm of the whip) and treated with chemicals from pests (Intavir) and from diseases (Topsin-M, Rodmigold) migrated to my house, where it is warm (16 degrees) and light (there is a special lamp).

I will take care of them until February: cut, water, fertilize, etc. In February, if everything goes well, I will draw (100 cuttings can be made from one plant) and root future flowers. As I cut, I choose the strongest shoots of young shoots from the mother bush, cut off the shoot. From this shoot, I need a piece of three pairs of leaves. I remove the lower leaves, this internode will become the root system, I do not touch the second and third pair of leaves. I root with peat tablets. I immerse them from the container and fill them with warm boiled water so that they swell, but the water should not flow from them (instructions for the tablets are attached), we place the stalk in the cold blank of our rooter, so that the first internode is immersed by 0.5 -1 cm. We put all the cuttings in a mini greenhouse (do not forget to put on a bag or a transparent cover on top) and put it on the windowsill if there are no lamps to illuminate the seedlings.

Who, like me, put the lamps under them, my husband attached the lamps to the racks (troll), and my young plants stand there - they take root. The greenhouse must be ventilated - remove the condensate, if you see that the peat tablet has dried up, add water. Do not overdo it with water, the cuttings can rot. As soon as you see the threads-roots (a week is enough), remove the mesh from the peat tablet and plant the plant in a glass! The uterine bush should not be planted in the spring, just send it to the compost.
Mother bushes of petunia "Black Magic"

Few flower growers think that petunia is a perennial by nature. In the harsh conditions of our country, almost everyone grows it as an annual. I propose to consider ways to preserve a chic plant in the winter.

Growing petunias from seed is a tricky business. Not every amateur has the patience to pick microscopic seedlings. Very often, seedlings in the early stages are affected by the black leg. Few reach adulthood. Therefore, it makes sense to "try your luck" and keep your favorite copies at home.

IN last years several species and varieties of petunias have been bred that do not produce seeds. But they perfectly reproduce vegetatively: surfinia, caliberhoa, terry hybrids. In order to cut cuttings from them in the spring, winter storage of queen cells is necessary.

Ideal conditions for keeping in winter:
high humidity;
low temperature (not higher than 10 degrees);
rare watering (1 time per week);
lack of top dressing;
good lighting.
How to create these conditions and keep the plants until spring?

Vending uterine bushes are cut at a height of 18 cm, removing dried leaves and branches. Transplanted into separate containers with a volume of at least 3-5 liters, depending on the size of the plant.
In early autumn, without waiting for a strong cold snap on the street, they first bring it to the veranda or glazed cool balcony. A month later, they are moved to the house, choosing the coldest place, but with good lighting.
In private houses, suitable: insulated veranda, a window in the basement, the gap between wooden frames(if distance permits). The apartments are located on an insulated or heated balcony, on a windowsill closer to the glass. To reduce the heat, a thick blanket is thrown over the batteries.
Flower growers involved in the cultivation of seedlings for the purpose of its implementation, equip heated greenhouses or greenhouses in the garden. If possible, in unheated rooms maintain a temperature of 6 to 10 degrees.

There is a second option for saving planting material in the form of cuttings. In early August, branches with three internodes are cut from garden specimens. The top two sheets are left, and the bottom ones are removed.
Rooted in two ways:
1. In an aqueous solution with the addition of an activated charcoal tablet for disinfection. Carefully inspect the branches every day to prevent them from rotting. Leaves should not fall into the solution. When roots appear, they are transferred to pots with earth.
2. After processing with root, they are immediately planted in a flower pot for 2-3 pieces. For 3 weeks, cover with jars to increase humidity. Landings are aired once a day so that condensation and mold do not form. Cover from direct sunlight.
After 3 weeks, the buds begin to grow. The cover is removed. Above the 4th leaf, the growth point is pinched for greater tillering. To make the plant lush, this operation is repeated several times with each new shoot. Such bushes are stored at the end of August. They tolerate wintering conditions better than mother plants. Caring for them is the same as for ordinary indoor flowers. During this period, supplementary lighting is required in the evening and in the morning, top dressing with complex fertilizers once every two weeks.
Petunia from cuttings continues to bloom until December. True, the inflorescences become smaller in winter. Then comes a period of rest, and in February a new wave of buds is formed.

In March, buds wake up on the uterine bushes, the stems begin to grow. If there are greenhouses made of glass or cellular polycarbonate, then plants are brought there. There is enough light here, and the temperature stays at least 5 degrees at this time. Most ideal conditions to obtain strong planting material.

In April, cuttings are harvested. Root in the same way as described above. Unlike plants grown from seeds, flowering on them begins much earlier. After 1-1.5 months, the first buds appear.

The color of the inflorescences of modern varieties of petunia is so diverse and unpredictable that even on one bush it is difficult to find 2 identically colored specimens. Therefore, I want to keep for myself the most beautiful plants and admire them for more than one year.

Petunia is a plant of southern countries, even in autumn it continues to bloom in a flower bed or flowerpot, not realizing that the cold will come very soon and it will die. To prevent this from happening, the grower should take care of the plant, this is especially important if the variety you love does not produce seeds, and there is nothing to renew it with the advent of spring.

There are two ways to save petunias in the winter - cuttings or a mother plant.

To preserve the mother plant, it is removed from the ground along with a clod of earth, placed in a spacious container and brought into the room - it should be light and with an acceptable temperature of at least + 10-15 degrees.

When transplanting, which is carried out with the onset of autumn, damaged and dried leaves and shoots are removed. Healthy branches are cut to 10-15 cm. If the petunia grew in a flowerpot, you don’t need to dig it out - you just have to bring it into the room and create the necessary conditions.

Petunia growing and care at home

Growing petunias from seeds at home necessarily involves picking. An exception is the method when seedlings are grown using peat tablets. After the sprouts gain strength, they will acquire five to six full-fledged leaves, they can be planted in separate containers. This process is called picking, it must be done very carefully so as not to damage the fragile root system.

From now on, seedlings need to be accustomed to periodic hardening. At first, 10-15 minutes of the plants staying where it is cool - 10-15ºC - will be enough, with the subsequent increase in time.

If you want the future petunia bushes to be lush, densely branched, then be sure to pinch (you can do it more than once). To do this, you need to cut off the growth point of the stem at the level of about the 5th leaf - this technique provokes the growth of new shoots from the axils of the remaining leaves.

When the seedlings gain strength, maybe even give the first flowers, the petunia can be planted in a flower bed.

Petunia care in winter

Watering should be minimal, so that the soil does not dry out, and stretching shoots should be pinched. At the end of February, you can already start cuttings.

The strongest shoots are taken from the plant and cut into cuttings with 2-3 internodes, the lower leaves are removed. The cuttings are treated with a tool for root formation (rhizomes or enin) and planted in a substrate with a top layer of river sand 3-4 cm thick, this will prevent possible rotting of the cuttings due to overflow.

Further care as for ordinary seedlings, followed by planting in the ground.

How to water a petunia

Water the petunia generously, so that the water begins to come out of the drainage holes. In this case, there will be confidence that the clod of earth has been completely wetted. Usually in the summer the petunia is watered 2 times a day - in the morning and in the evening. Important rule: Never start watering if the hot sun is shining on the flowers. You will ensure that the roots in moist soil begin to "cook", and this can lead to the death of the plant. According to the orientation of your balcony, work out your own watering schedule. For example, if the direct rays of the sun fall on it from 8 a.m. to 2 p.m., then water the plantings at 7 a.m. And at 3 pm (or a little later, for example, immediately, as soon as you come home from work in the evening).

Please note that in May - early June, when petunias are already sleeping on the balcony (street), it is still quite cool at night. Therefore, try not to water the plants late in the evening to avoid hypothermia of the roots. The same can be said about autumn - September and October. In summer, such precautions are irrelevant.

Petunia shower

On dry summer days, petunias should be sprayed with warm water from a spray bottle. This will be a good prevention against spider mites and saturate the plant with moisture from the outside. Evening abundant spraying has a great effect on the condition of petunias, making them healthier and stronger. Spraying should be done when the sun leaves your balcony. Otherwise, sunburns will definitely remain on the plants - the rays will pass through drops of water, as if through lenses and burn through the leaf plate.

Petunia cuttings

Cuttings are an excellent, labor-intensive way to propagate this flower. A high percentage of rooting, simple care for the bushes are the advantages of this method.

To do this, you need to cut off the upper cuttings from a full-fledged, strong plant, about 10-12 cm long. It is worth mentioning that on this occasion the opinions of experienced gardeners are divided, as some advise to select side shoots for cuttings, which are located at the root of the plant. It is worth noting that both options work well, subsequently give a positive result.

Reproduction by cuttings of petunias is carried out closer to autumn (end of August - September). The lower leaves are removed from the segments of the stem, and they themselves are briefly immersed in a container with a solution of a biostimulating drug, for example, Rhizome. After that, the cuttings are seated in cups, shade them. The soil (or sand) where the cuttings were placed should always be moistened. You can also use pure vermiculite.

The roots of the shoots are formed already on the 7th or 10th day. After rooting, the cuttings can be transplanted - small pots with a diameter of 12-15 cm are just right. Here the petunia can survive the winter. Feeding rooted cuttings with complex fertilizers is very important.

How to cut a petunia

In order for the root system of the plant to be well formed, the cuttings must be lowered for some time into a solution with phytohormones.

Since the petunia's root system is very powerful and dense, you should not neglect caring for it, since it is the roots that will affect further development flower.

After that, the cuttings are planted in boxes with wet sand or loose soil, the planting depth is 4 cm. The cuttings should be planted close to each other, literally 2-3 cm apart.

Then the earth can be pressed with your hands and watered.

The box should be placed in a bright place, previously covered with a film or glass.

When to cut a petunia

I transplant terry petunias in early August so that the plant still has time to take root well, they tolerate transplanting quite simply, it is advisable to dig it out with a large clod of earth.

As for the varieties of ampelous petunias, I plant them in separate pots in the spring and bring them into the house with the onset of cold weather. You can also transplant them in the middle of summer, but I noticed that non-transplanted ampel varieties are better preserved.

If you don’t want to touch the plant in the flowerbed in the summer, you can cut cuttings from it in late June - early August, root them and save the already rooted petunia for the winter. According to my observations, such plants tolerate winter more easily in an apartment.

Petunias root easily. From a flowering plant, I cut cuttings with two internodes, cut the leaves. It is better to use not the apical parts of the shoots, but the lateral root offspring 7-9 cm long. I make the lower cut of the cutting at the very internode, dip it in rhizomes, plant it in cups and put it in the shade. The main thing is to carefully monitor that the soil does not dry out. Roots appear after 7-10 days. Rooted cuttings are transplanted into pots with a diameter of 12-15 cm, in which they will winter. Plants must be fed with complex fertilizer.

There are 2 options for saving petunias for the winter:

• in the form of mother plants
• in the form of cuttings

Preservation of mother bushes of petunia in winter

Adult petunia bushes can be preserved until spring if they are moved to a bright and frost-free room. It should be light, humid enough, optimal t \u003d 10-15 ° C (but less will do, the main thing is that the temperature does not fall below 0 ° C). Suitable conditions are on closed verandas, insulated or southern loggias, on window sills of entrances.

Petunia bushes are dug up, transplanted into pots and brought into the room. You need to have time to do this before frost, that is, in September - November. Dry leaves, damaged, rotten branches are cut off from the plant. A cardinal haircut is also practiced: all branches are cut to 10-15 cm /

For winter storage, petunias are cut in late August - September. This petunia propagates easily by cuttings, since the life processes in it have not yet been slowed down. Roots appear in 5-10 days after planting.

Cuttings 5-10 cm long are cut from petunias, planted in cups, covered with a “wig”. After rooting, they are placed in a cool, bright place. For example, on the windowsill, closer to the glass. To increase the humidity of the content, a jar of water can be placed near young petunias.

The main conditions for keeping rooted petunia cuttings in winter:

Sufficient watering - after drying the topsoil;

• spraying;
• lack of fertilizers;
• increase in air humidity (tanks with water next to the cuttings).

In the spring, cuttings that have already taken shape in young petunia bushes can be transferred to balcony containers or planted in a flower bed. They can also be cut again and the required amount of planting material can be grown from new cuttings.

To keep the beautiful begonia until the next season, it is necessary to properly organize her dormant period. In most cases, with the advent of summer and the onset of warm, fine days, flower growers try to take their plants out into the open air. Even the begonias that live in room conditions, on the street feel much better. They actively gain green mass, form new shoots and buds. In anticipation of cold weather, a pot with a plant from the street must be moved indoors. Now it's time to prepare it for rest, which means that watering needs to be reduced. In principle, they begin to water the bush less often even while they are in the fresh air, and when the flower “moves” into the house, the soil does not need to be moistened at all. After all, the tubers should be able to dry before being stored. If possible, the plant can be left in a pot for the winter. Previously, all shoots will need to be cut. Put the pot in dry room with a stable positive air temperature, for example, in the basement. In the absence of a basement, the tubers should be stored in the refrigerator on the bottom shelf. Before laying for storage, the begonia should be removed from the flowerpot and freed from the substrate. Next, carry out the following activities:

• cut off the shoot from the tuber;
• cut the roots with scissors;
• leave the tubers to dry well.

Put peat in a bag and place begonia tubers there. Instead of peat, it is good to use moss - sphagnum.

Temperature requirement for petunias until next year

The ideal temperature for wintering is 10-15°C, if it is less, it’s not scary, the main thing is not below 0°C. For this, the plants need to be dug up, placed in pots before the onset of the first cold weather (September - November), the most optimal time for this is mid-August. All dried, spoiled leaves should be removed. You can do it more radically - cut all the branches up to 10-12 cm. To comfortably survive the winter, it is enough to water the petunia 2 or 3 times a month.

Soil requirement

Petunia does not apply to the soil special requirements. But if you want to get decorative bushes then:

• Add compost or humus to the future bed;
• Do not apply fresh manure;
• Apply lime if soil acidity is below pH5.5;
• When digging a flower bed in spring, add complex fertilizer (nitrophoska)

An adult petunia plant already has a strong, well-branched root system, so a large capacity is needed to grow the plant (5-6 liters per plant).

Petunia loves regular feeding. As you remember, for the first time they began to feed her two weeks after the pick. At a young age, fertilizing with nitrogen fertilizers for growth predominates. For bookmarking buds and abundant flowering need potassium and phosphorus. An adult plant needs to be fed every 5-7 days.

Regular removal of faded flowers and seed pods will prolong the overall flowering of the bush. To get a bushy lush specimen, the petunia must be pinched over the third - fifth leaf.

Petunia is well known to flower growers, it is grown in home gardens and on balconies. And with regret they dig up every year, so that next year they will grow again from seeds. These flowers are considered an annual, but in fact they are perennials. And if you provide certain conditions, you can save especially valuable specimens in the winter in the apartment. Knowing how to do this, you can grow your favorite variety for years without much hassle.

Wintering petunias

Petunias were brought from South America; many species and hybrids are currently known. For example, F1 (surfinias, superpetunias and other hybrids of this series) do not retain their properties on daughter plants. This pattern is often observed during propagation by seeds: the most reliable way to preserve hereditary traits is vegetative propagation. Some specimens, for example, terry varieties, do not produce seeds, there are often problems with their germination. Since this flower is actually a perennial, you can pick it up for the winter and in a pot and overexpose it until the onset of heat. And next year, get young and healthy specimens of the variety you like.

home content

To save petunias does not require much effort. The main thing is to create optimal conditions for wintering. It is enough to take them home for the winter and settle them on a glazed balcony, a well-lit frost-proof cellar or an insulated veranda on the south side. Or put on the windowsill in the entrance, if possible. In order for petunias to winter well, it is necessary:

• keep them at a temperature of +10 - +12 0 (the temperature regime can be increased or decreased by a couple of degrees);
• water regularly, preventing the soil from completely drying out;
• provide humidity, for example, put water nearby;
• put the pots on a well-lit windowsill or keep under artificial light.

Important: in order to keep the plant in the winter in the apartment, it is necessary to carefully examine it before bringing it into the room. In early autumn, whiteflies and other pests may lay their eggs on the underside of the leaves. If an infected plant gets into the house, it will die, and the pests will move to other flowers and seedlings.

Wintering benefits:

• early flowering: buds will appear already in early spring, when grown from seeds, they appear no earlier than the end of May;
• maternal signs persist;
• you can get a lot of cuttings and propagate the variety;
• you do not have to germinate seeds and care for young sprouts.

mother bushes

To make a perennial out of a petunia, you need to take it home for the winter. To do this, even before frost, in September - October, the flower should be dug up and, together with a clod of earth, transplanted into a pot. Then leave for a couple of days in the open air to reduce stress after transplantation.

Transplant rules:

• Pruning: all dry and damaged branches are pruned. You can cut off all the branches on the bush, leaving a length of 10-15 cm.
• Transplantation: pour drainage, nutrient soil with compost into the pot, be sure to remove a layer of 2-3 cm from the earth clod and add fresh soil.
• Inspection: Leaves should be checked for pests before being brought into the home.
• Prevention: pots should be placed in a plastic bag and sprayed with Aktelik or another similar agent. Tie the bag and leave for a day, then wipe with a damp sponge and ventilate. For additional protection, you can bury a fertilizer stick with an insecticide and a glycoclandin tablet in the soil.

At home, the mother bush is provided with optimal conditions (temperature, humidity, lighting). Watering should be as the soil dries out, at least 2-3 times a month. Such wintering conditions will not allow the bush to die, and, at the same time, will not allow premature growth and exhaustion. In feeding during this period, the mother plant does not need.

Tip: during wintering, you can spray the mother liquor with zircon or epin a couple of times.

By the end of January, you can begin to awaken the plant. To do this, it is transferred to the most illuminated place, watering is established and they begin to be fed every two weeks with complex fertilizers with nitrogen. With such care, flowering can be expected by mid-February. In the spring, after the onset of stable heat, the mother liquor is transferred to a permanent landing site. At the same time, young cuttings can be obtained. Strong young shoots are cut off (it is possible with a heel, but this is not necessary). Prepare cuttings as follows:

• green cuttings are cut into 10 cm each;
• it is necessary to leave 2 internodes;
• the upper leaves are left, the lower ones are removed;
• then, for rooting, they are placed in containers with fertile, well-loosened, moist soil and peat or vermiculite to a depth of 2 cm (you can put the cuttings in water that needs to be changed every day);
• containers are covered with plastic or a glass jar and ventilated daily; for better air exchange, several holes can be made at the bottom.

In two weeks, the cuttings germinate and take root. Containers are opened, young sprouts are constantly watered, sprayed and fertilized. For better tillering, the top should be pinned. Landing on open ground is carried out after stable weather is established and the temperature rises to +10 0.

cuttings

To save a petunia until next year, it is not necessary to leave the entire mother bush. You can prepare cuttings in the fall and send home for the winter. Cuttings are carried out in late August - early September. For this, green, non-lignified branches 5–10 cm long are cut off. They are placed in water or in cups with soil. When rooting in the ground, it is better to make a greenhouse, cover with another plastic cup. It will take 10-14 days for roots to appear. At this time, they need to be provided with light and moisture and heat (+20 - +23 0).

After rooting, the sprouts are placed in standard wintering conditions for petunias. They should not be actively watered or fed; young bushes are kept in the same way as mother plants. With the onset of spring, they are transplanted by transshipment to a permanent place. If necessary, new cuttings can be cut before transplanting.

Petunia in winter: how to keep petunia until spring The cold is coming, and the petunia on your site or balcony continues to delight in lush color. Soon this beauty will come to an end, but it's a pity ... Well, there is nowhere to go from the cycle of seasons, but you can try to save the petunia bushes for the winter. Petunia, at its core, is a heat-loving perennial, therefore, by creating “southern” conditions for it, we can extend its life. So, now we will reveal the secret of how to save a petunia in winter. Wintering petunias - an action for the elite We hasten to warn you right away: keeping petunia bushes in winter is not an easy task. Although, this is the best way out if you want to keep a particularly expensive, luxurious variety that does not produce seeds or does not retain all its properties in daughter plants. For example, this is useful for surfinia, supertunia and many other F1 hybrids. There are 2 options for preserving petunias for the winter: in the form of mother plants in the form of cuttings Option No. 1. Preservation of mother petunia bushes in winter Adult petunia bushes can be preserved until spring if they are moved to a bright and frost-free room. It should be light, humid enough, optimal t = 10-15 ° C (but less will do, the main thing is that the temperature does not fall below 0 ° C). Suitable conditions are on closed verandas, insulated or southern loggias, on window sills of entrances. Petunia bushes are dug up, transplanted into pots and brought into the room. You need to have time to do this before frost, that is, in September-November. Dry leaves, damaged, rotten branches are cut off from the plant. A cardinal haircut is also practiced: all branches are cut to 10-15 cm. The main conditions for caring for petunia bushes in winter are: minimal watering (up to 2-3 times a month); lack of fertilizers; high air humidity; temperature 10-15°C; good lighting. In such conditions, petunias safely survive the winter and bloom in mid-February! Then more frequent watering and fertilizing can be “introduced” into the diet. A petunia bush that has survived the winter is planted in open ground or in balcony containers. Or they act differently: they propagate the petunia by cuttings and grow young petunia plants. The latter option is more common among flower growers. It is believed (and not unreasonably!) that young petunias bloom better than sophomores. How are cuttings of petunias carried out? In the spring, cuttings of 5-10 cm are cut from the overwintered petunia bush - green, not lignified. The lower leaves on the handle are cut off so that a bare stem 1-3 cm long remains at the base. It is important that this site has at least 1 pair of internodes. 2-3 leaves should remain at the top of the cutting. If they are large, then their plates are cut across half - to reduce the evaporation of moisture. The bare part of the stem is deepened into moist, loose soil. A vapor barrier is arranged on top to keep high humidity around the cuttings. For example, cover the planting container with a plastic cup, glass jar or glass. Every day, the "greenhouse" is aired - to prevent the appearance of mold, rot, black legs on the handle. After about 10-14 days, young shoots will appear in the axils of the cuttings - this means that rooting has taken place! The greenhouse is removed, the cuttings continue to grow in the same way as petunia seedlings: watered, fertilized, sprayed. Above 5-6 leaves, young plants are pinched for tillering. In March-April (depending on the region), when stable positive temperatures of 10-12 ° C are established, rooted cuttings are planted for permanent residence - in open ground or in balcony containers. Option number 2. Saving petunias in winter by cuttings Keeping petunia mother liquor in winter requires special conditions - high humidity and low temperatures. In a city apartment, with a non-glazed (or glazed, but cold northern) balcony, such a climate is almost impossible to recreate. In living quarters, there are more chances of survival not for adult petunias, but for rooted cuttings. They do not need special conditions and you need to care for them in the same way as for indoor flowers. This method will also help those flower growers who do not want to clutter up verandas, balconies and loggias in winter with large containers with petunia mother liquors. Cuttings in cups on the windowsills take up very little space! For winter storage, petunias are cut in late August-September. This petunia propagates easily by cuttings, since the life processes in it have not yet been slowed down. Roots appear in 5-10 days after planting. Cuttings 5-10 cm long are cut from petunias, planted in cups, covered with a "greenhouse". After rooting, they are placed in a cool, bright place. For example, on the windowsill, closer to the glass. To increase the humidity of the content, a jar of water can be placed near young petunias. The main conditions for keeping rooted petunia cuttings in winter are: sufficient watering - after drying the topsoil; spraying; lack of fertilizers; increase in air humidity (tanks with water next to the cuttings). In the spring, cuttings that have already taken shape in young petunia bushes can be transferred to balcony containers or planted in a flower bed. They can also be cut again and the required amount of planting material can be grown from new cuttings. Advantages of keeping petunias in winter (cuttings or mature plants) The main advantages of keeping petunias for the winter: early spring flowering. An adult "second-year" plant or cuttings taken from it can bloom as early as February-March. And this will happen even in the northern regions, such as the Urals, Siberia, etc. ease in obtaining adult seedlings. To do this, you do not need to sow small seeds, nurse frail sprouts. The planted stalk, after 2-2.5 weeks, will already bloom. preservation until spring of vegetatively propagating varieties of petunias.