Installation of electrical wiring in the bathroom. Is it possible to lay tiles on a warm floor - Tiles on a heated floor? Is it possible to lay tiles on a working underfloor heating

Everything today more people give preference to the arrangement of a water-heated floor. If you are among this number, then, most likely, ceramic tiles have been chosen as the facing material.

This material has excellent specifications. For example, tiles have a high level of thermal conductivity. Thanks to this, the heat does not linger, but quickly enters the room.

However, many are interested in the question of how tiles are laid on a warm floor. The technology is practically no different from laying on a regular floor. Moreover, laying tiles on an electric underfloor heating is similar to laying tiles on a water heated floor.

The only difference is that the water circuit is immediately hidden by the floor screed, and the electric heating can be open. Therefore, the tile is placed directly on the electric heating. In this article, we will tell you about the technology of this process.

Features of laying tiles

Installation on a warm floor tile requires knowledge of some points:

• The height of the finish coat must match the floor level of the rest of the rooms. Similar calculations are performed at the stage of pouring the screed onto the warm floor.
• Laying tiles on an electric or water heated floor requires compliance with the thickness of the tile adhesive. Ideally, the tile adhesive should be up to 10 mm thick. With a larger layer, thermal energy will not be dissipated over the entire area of ​​​​the laid tile, but will be concentrated directly near the pipe or cable.
• You need a special adhesive for tiles on a warm floor. It has to cope with sudden changes in temperature. On the packaging of the adhesive, the manufacturer must indicate information about the compatibility of the mixture with underfloor heating.
• It is important to have a blueprint or photograph of the installed underfloor heating circuit. If you need to drill a hole in the field in the future, a photo will help you avoid making a mistake by breaking through the heating circuit.
• The inclusion of heating when the tile adhesive dries is prohibited. The adhesive must dry at natural temperature. Masonry for water heating requires starting up and filling the system with pressurized coolant.
• The heating circuit must be securely fixed to the floor. Pipes or cables must not extend from the base. The screed holds the pipes well, and the wires must be securely fixed.

These are the main nuances that are taken into account when laying tiles and making a warm floor with your own hands.

Tile laying instructions

A set of such tools is being prepared for work:

1. Level small and large.
2. Crosses to form the same seam.
3. Rule.
4. Three spatulas, notched, regular and rubber.
5. Yardstick.
6. A device for cutting tiles.
7. Chopping cord.
8. Drill or perforator.
9. Bucket for mixing tile adhesive.
10. Construction mixer for mixing glue.
11. Pencil.
12. Rag to remove adhesive from tiles.
13. Building corner.
14. Masking tape.
15. Tiled floor.
16. Brush for priming.

For laying tiles on a warm water floor, the following material is required:

1. Ceramic tile.
2. Special tile adhesive.
3. Grout.

All work consists of several successive stages:

1. Surface preparation.
2. Markup.
3. Primer.
4. Glue preparation.
5. Tile laying.
6. Seam grouting.

The technology of laying tiles on a warm floor is no different from laying on a regular floor. Let's consider each of these stages separately.

Surface preparation

Make sure that the installation work of the warm floor has come to an end. The system is working properly and has been tested/tested. The base for the tiles must be dry and even.

Putting tiles on the screed is much easier. To do this, try to fill it in level. In this case, the tile layer will be minimal. Any contamination and sagging of the solution are removed.

The cleaned and prepared screed is covered with a primer. The use of a primer is recommended deep penetration. After two hours, the surface is primed again for better adhesion of the tile adhesive.

Important! Don't forget to turn off the underfloor heating. Otherwise, the glue will dry out abruptly and it will not hold the tile..

markup

Before laying tiles on a warm floor, marking is performed. It is necessary to decide on what scheme to lay it. For example, there will be a lot of cuts along the diagonal. Can be laid apart so that the vertical seams do not match. With normal masonry, all seams, vertical and horizontal, will match.

Important! The choice of laying scheme does not affect the quality of floor heating. Focus on personal preference.

Having decided on the layout scheme, markings are applied to the floor. With a chopping cord with paint, beat off the line of the first row. This guide will help lay out the entire tile evenly. If there is a pattern, lay the coating on the floor dry. This will help you mark up correctly.

Glue preparation

After marking, tile adhesive is prepared. The kneading is done based on the manufacturer's recommendations. Pour water into a mixing container. Add a mixture of a given proportion to it.

If you do the opposite, then the glue will be taken in a lump that is difficult to break. The tile adhesive is mixed with a construction mixer. The finished consistency should resemble a creamy mass.

Check the quality of the glue: put the mixture on the spatula, it should not drain or fall when the spatula is tilted. The mixture should be held on the spatula.

note

After preparing the tile adhesive, allow it to rest for 15 minutes. After this time, re-mix the adhesive.

In the absence of practice, the speed of laying tiles will be small. Therefore, do not knead the glue in large volumes. Calculate the batch for 30 minutes of work. During this time, the glue will not dry out and a crust will not form on it.

Tile laying

• The prepared adhesive is applied with a notched trowel onto the tile and base.
• The resulting grooves will give better adhesion.
• Apply glue to the floor immediately on 1 m2 with an even spatula in a thin layer.
• The adhesive mass is applied to the tile with a notched trowel.
• The edges and middle are well smeared.
• Apply the tile to the floor according to the markup.
• With little effort, press the tile to the floor.
• Be sure to apply the level. The level measures the tile in all positions: horizontally, vertically and diagonally.
• Lay a few more tiles nearby. Expose them strictly horizontally.
• Between the tiles place crosses that form a uniform and identical seam.
• When you press the tile, part of the glue will go into the seam. It must be removed immediately.
• If the adhesive has got on the front side of the tile, remove it with a damp cloth.

note

A gap of up to 20 mm is left between the wall and the cladding. It is needed as an expansion joint.

After laying the tiles and curing the glue, all the crosses are carefully removed. While the adhesive has not completely set, make sure that there are no residues of the mixture in the seams. Otherwise, the grout will not hold well.

When laying near walls, pipes and other elements, pruning is necessary. For cutting, a manual or automatic tile cutter is used. All cuts must be straight and without burrs.

Grouting

For grouting, a special mixture is used. For the floor, it is recommended to purchase a moisture-resistant grout. With the prepared mixture, evenly fill all the seams. Do not leave sagging on the front side of the cladding.

After drying, it will be difficult to wash it off. After 30 minutes, the surface is washed with a damp cloth and cold water. The floor must be free of stains and other contaminants.

On this, laying tiles on a warm floor can be considered complete. This coverage:

1. tolerates numerous cleaning cycles;
2. in contact with chemicals does not change color;
3. complies with the hygiene rules established by the norms;
4. evenly distributes the thermal energy of the warm floor over the entire area.

When the lining has dried, you can turn on the warm floor. The drying time of the adhesive mixture can be determined by the instructions on the bag from the manufacturer.

Conclusion

So, from this article it was possible to learn how the installation of tiles on a heating surface is carried out. With all the tips in this article, you should be able to do a great job.

We hope that you have received useful food for thought. Share your experience in the comments at the end of the article. Your experience will be useful for beginners.

Laying tiles on a warm floor - video

obplitke.ru

How to properly lay ceramic tiles on underfloor heating?

Underfloor heating is gaining more and more popularity. Laminate is used for its finishing coating, parquet board or ceramic tiles. Each material has its own advantages and disadvantages. For flooring in the bathroom, toilet, kitchen, hallway, ceramic tiles are often used. Proper laying of tiles on a warm floor is the key to its reliability and durability.

General view of the heated floor, lined with ceramic tiles

Types of tiled floor

First of all, you need to figure out what a warm floor is, what types of it are, how they are mounted. This information will help you post it correctly.

Underfloor heating is a multi-layer system consisting of insulation, heating element, bearing cement-sand screed and top coat.

There are two types of underfloor heating suitable for laying ceramic tiles:

• electric;
• water.

Electric

It is worth considering the features of installing an electric underfloor heating under ceramic tiles. It is a suitable system for ceramic veneering.

There are two types of heating:

• Heating by cables. The base is examined first. If it is without obvious potholes, then a cable is laid on it. The base is leveled with a cement-sand screed. Then a layer of insulation 50-70 mm thick is laid. It has waterproofing. After that, heating elements are mounted, which are poured with a cement-sand screed or a ready-made mixture for a warm floor. Then ceramic granite is laid on a special adhesive for underfloor heating. Such a system "eats" up to 100 mm of room height.

Underfloor heating electric cable laid on a metal mesh

• Mat heating. They need a flat surface to install. Any unevenness or sharp chipping can cause a violation of the insulation of the wires and subsequently the failure of the entire system. If there are cracks or potholes on the rough base, they are sealed. Then the mats are mounted, which are connected into a single system. After that, their performance is checked. At the final stage, ceramic granite is laid on a special glue for underfloor heating. The thickness of such a base is only 40-50 mm, which is much less than that of a similar system with cable heating.

Infrared mats for tiles

This is a type of electric heating. The infrared floor consists of bimetallic or carbon plates sewn into a polyethylene film.

Installation of infrared mats on a warm floor

For a porcelain stoneware base, it is better to use carbon plate mats. Bimetallic - prone to corrosion.

First of all, the surface for laying mats is checked. All irregularities are sealed, or a leveling screed is poured. Then a layer of heat-reflecting material is laid. A fiberglass mesh with a mesh size of 30 × 30 mm is mounted on it.

Rolls of infrared floor 1000 mm wide are rolled onto the finished base. The whole system is then connected to electrical circuit. On the finished floor, ceramic granite is laid on a special glue.

The power cable must be directly under the tiles.

Water

He did not find application in apartments. Suitable for heating large areas in private houses and public buildings.

Installation example polypropylene pipes on prepared ground

First of all, the base is leveled. The screed is poured over the entire surface of the floor. Then a damper tape is laid, on which a layer of insulation 50-70 mm thick is mounted. The most commonly used thermal insulation material is mineral wool or styrofoam.

Pipes for hot water are mounted on the prepared base and connected to common system heating. A cement-sand screed is poured from above. You can use a ready-made self-leveling floor. At the final stage, ceramic granite is laid. Water heating floor "eats" up to 150 mm of room height.

The optimal base for laying porcelain stoneware is an electrically heated floor. It is suitable for small living spaces, baths, toilets, hallways. The technology of tiling electric and water heated floors is the same.

Underfloor heating tiles

The rules for laying it on a warm floor do not differ from the rules for facing a conventional surface. The exception is the choice of tile adhesive. For a warm floor, there is a special adhesive with increased plasticity. It contains thermoregulating additives.

Materials and tools

• Tile adhesive for underfloor heating;
• Grout for seams;
• Deep penetration soil or concrete contact;
• Comb trowel, 100-150 mm;
• Rubber spatula, 50-70 mm;
• Crosses for seams;
• Electric drill:
• Rubber mallet;
• Mixer nozzle;
• Building level, 700-1000 mm;
• Tile cutter or glass cutter;
• Mastic;
• Paint roller, 250 mm;
• Protective rubber gloves and goggles;
• Thin cord and chalk.

Material Quantity Calculation

First of all, the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room is calculated. Then the number of boxes with tiles is determined. Each one has an area. A margin of 10% is added to the result obtained for trimming and fitting.

The amount of adhesive depends on the unevenness of the base and the thickness of the layer. Average values ​​for consumption per square meter are given on the packaging. Soil norm 200-300 gr./m2.

Training

Before laying the tiles, preparatory work is carried out. Most often, the base of a warm floor under a tile is a cement-sand screed. It is impregnated with deep penetration soil or concrete contact. Concrete heated floors are covered with plastic wrap or impregnated with bituminous mastic.

Application of a deep penetration primer on a cement-sand screed

The drying time of the soil is 2-3 hours. To improve adhesion, the floor can be treated 2 times.

Room layout

Drawing guide lines for laying tiles

There are two main ways to lay tiles on a warm floor: in rows or in a run. In the first case, all horizontal and vertical seams of the rows coincide. In the second - the warm floor is laid in a checkerboard pattern. The laying method does not affect performance.

The layout of the room starts from the longest wall. With the help of chalk and a thin lace, the first row is beaten off. From it the rest of the room is marked. This method is suitable for classic styling without additional patterns.

When it is necessary to lay ceramic granite with a pattern, then diagonals are beaten off. This is done with rope and chalk. The intersection point is the center of the room. The whole drawing is laid out from it.

If you plan to lay out a drawing or a diagonal, then first the entire tile is laid out “dry”. This is done to check the calculations and the actual layout.

Laying technology

• Preparation of tile adhesive for underfloor heating. For its kneading, use a plastic or metal bucket. Glue is prepared in two stages. At the first, part of the water is poured, and the dry mixture is poured. The components are mixed using an electric drill with a grout nozzle. On the second - the rest of the water and the dry mixture are added to the bucket. Everything is thoroughly mixed. The finished consistency should be slightly thicker than sour cream.

Mixing tile adhesive in a plastic bucket with a drill

Pilot glue sets quickly. Therefore, a small volume is kneaded at a time - for 30-40 minutes of work.

• The adhesive is applied either to the base or to the tile. When applied to the substrate, a regular and comb trowel is used. Normal - the mixture is leveled, comb - furrows are made for better adhesion to ceramic tiles. The size of the surface to be glued at one time should not exceed 1 m 2 . When applied to tiles, a trowel and a comb trowel are used. The glue is applied by the master to the back side of the ceramic tile. With a comb spatula, it is stretched over the entire surface.
• Laying. In both cases, each element is applied to the base and slightly pressed with smooth wave-like movements. Then it is tapped with a rubber mallet. The action is repeated with the next element. Using the building level, the horizontalness of the surface is checked. If the tile sank or reared up, then it is removed, the defect is corrected. She then returns to her seat. To maintain an equal distance between the tiles, crosses are inserted into them: two on each side of the tile. A gap of 10-20 mm is left between the wall and the tile. It plays the role of a deformation seam. After the glue hardens, all crosses are removed.

The setting time of tile adhesive for underfloor heating is 24 hours. After 72 hours, the floor can be loaded with furniture.

• Cutting and laying tiles. If possible, uneven and cut pieces are placed in corners or under furniture. To frame the areas around the pipes, use a template made of cardboard or paper. It is made for each element. The shape is then transferred to the tile and cut out. Finished pieces fit into place. Depending on the strength, ceramic granite is cut with a glass cutter, tile cutter or grinder with a circle for sawing ceramics. Bulgarian is used for cutting durable varieties floor covering, which are rarely laid at home. The tile cutter is used to cut large quantities of ceramic tiles. A glass cutter is needed for curly trimming small areas. However, many professional floor tile installers use a glass cutter as their primary tool.

Using a glass cutter to cut porcelain stoneware

Ceramic granite is cut only from a smooth face.

Seam processing

They are of two types:

• Installation - between the tiles. Their width varies from 1.5 to 3 mm. Less than 1.5 mm is considered a seamless installation. The seams are sealed 24 hours after the installation of the flooring is completed. First of all, all the crosses are taken out. Then all seams with a rubber spatula close up with grout. The movement of the spatula is strictly along the seam.

Sealing joints between tiles with a rubber trowel

30-40 minutes after grouting, the seams are washed with cold water.

• Perimeter - between the tile and the wall. These are expansion joints. They are sealed with silicone sealant or a rubber gasket. Then they are closed with a plastic plinth.

This completes the laying of ceramic tiles. This is a durable and reliable coating that:

• perfectly withstands hundreds of cleaning cycles;
• does not change color when exposed to chemicals;
• fits all hygiene standards and rules;
• evenly distributes heat throughout the room;
• pleasing to the eye.

Video

Useful facts

• IN Soviet time before laying the tiles were soaked in water. In modern times, many "old school" finishers continue to perform this action, although it is no longer necessary.
• The problem with slippery tiles is solved by purchasing a special compound. It is applied to the surface and protects it for a long time. A budget option for the bathroom is a regular rubber mat.
• All modern floor tiles manufactured industrially. There is one company in the world that produces and paints ceramic granite by hand. Price square meter such coverage is not available ordinary person. Therefore, we must remember that all the assurances of the sellers in the hardware store of the exclusivity of the collection are most likely a PR move.

heatplota.guru

Laying tiles on a warm floor (electric, water) with your own hands

Heated floors are one of the types of modern heating equipment used, depending on the region of residence, as the main or additional means of heating houses or apartments.

The so-called warm floors are divided into electric and water - according to the design of the heating circuit included in their design, mounted under the finishing of the base. In electrical systems, the circuit is made of a self-heating cable or infrared film elements, and in water systems it is a hollow tube with a coolant (water, antifreeze) circulating through it. The installation of the contours of these types of underfloor heating is carried out using technologies that are tied to a wide range of factors - the characteristics of the base and the room, and therefore differ from each other, but after the installation is completed, the heating elements of any of these devices need a protective coating and finishing.

The task of this heating system is to heat the floor covering arranged over the contour and then maintain the temperature of its surface at a certain level so that the heat from the floor is transferred to the air of the room, and contact with the structure, previously always cold to the touch, becomes comfortable for residents. To ensure these functions, floor cladding must be made of materials with a sufficient degree of thermal conductivity, therefore the best option The finishing of underfloor heating is ceramic flooring.

How to properly lay tiles on a warm floor, let's consider in more detail, taking into account the most common situations and factors.

The validity of the use of ceramics for facing underfloor heating

Most types of tiles are made from materials that are less dense than concrete. The difference in density causes different coefficients of thermal expansion of the finished base and tiles, which is fraught with peeling of the cladding at the onset and end of the heating season - at the moments of temperature fluctuations caused by turning on or off the heating equipment. Accordingly, the concentrated heating of the floor structure by the underfloor heating system causes even more significant thermal expansion of these materials. Given these factors, the question of whether it is possible to lay ceramic tiles on a warm floor is quite natural.

The answer is unequivocal - yes, you can. And that's why:

1. For finishing underfloor heating, it is advisable to use high-density tiles (low porosity), the heat-insulating properties of which are therefore low - natural stone, porcelain stoneware, brooms, monocottura. In terms of density, these materials are close to concrete floor slabs, so the difference in their thermal expansion is insignificant.
2. The efficiency of space heating by the underfloor heating system is achieved due to the large heat transfer area, so the temperature of the heating elements used in them is low. Accordingly, the values ​​of thermal expansion of the materials in contact with each other are insignificant and, importantly, there is no danger of burns.
3. The elasticity of modern tile adhesives, grouts allows them to maintain solidity with significant deformations of the glued surfaces and thus prevent the tiled lining from peeling off the base.

Thus, laying tiles on a warm electric floor or a base with water heating is a completely reasonable and justified decision.

Installation of ceramics on a warm floor

The technology of laying tiles on a warm floor is selected depending on how the heating elements were installed - “wet” or “dry”.

With the “wet” method, a cement-sand mortar screed is made over the heating circuit, water or electric. The question of how to lay tiles on a warm floor, in this case, is solved in the same way as facing a floor surface without heating.

There are several "dry" methods for installing underfloor heating. Here are the most common ones:

• Special mats with grooves for the heating circuit are laid on the supporting base. After installation in the grooves of pipes or cables, GWP (gypsum fiber board), DSP (cement-bonded particle board) or multilayer plywood with hydrophobic impregnation is laid on top of the mats, on which ceramics are placed.
• On top of the heating circuit, a layer of loose filler of fine fraction with good thermal conductivity (slag) is arranged, which is also covered with GWP or DSP.
• Grooves are cut out in wooden floorboards with the help of a milling cutter to accommodate a heating circuit in them, after installation of which it is also necessary to lay pressed structure slabs on the floor.

In the listed “dry” methods of installing underfloor heating, the material for arranging the heating circuits is different, but in all three cases, the base to be tiled is not concrete, but organic material, which is tiled using special technologies.

It does not matter whether the “wet” method was used for laying heating elements or the “dry” method - laying tiles on a warm water floor is carried out in the same way as on a base with electric heating.

Underfloor heating tiles under cement screed

The main point in preparing for this work is the choice of material - ceramics and adhesives.

Natural stone, porcelain stoneware, monocottura are facing materials of high density and hardness that meet all the requirements for underfloor heating. But ceramic tiles should also not have geometry defects. Any deviation of the sheets from the configuration and dimensions declared by the manufacturer will lead to visual defects in the finish - protruding or recessed corners of ceramics, a difference in the width of the seams.

When choosing between seam or seamless laying of ceramics, it is better to focus on the first option - the grouting material of the joints will partially take over the thermal expansion of each cladding element, and the total increase in the size of the decorative shell with this method of finishing will be less than with seamless installation.

Laying and grouting compounds for ceramics on heated floors must have sufficient elasticity, good thermal conductivity and high adhesion to the materials to be glued.

• "Ceresit" (CM-14 EXTRA, CM-16, CM-17) - for tiles made of porcelain stoneware, monocottura, broom.
• "Ceresit CM-115" - for facing made of natural stone (marble, limestone).
• Bergauf Keramic Express - for large-format ceramics (up to 1 m2).
• Knauf Flex - for finishing ceramic and granite tiles in rooms with high humidity.

Adhesives from manufacturers Knauf, Prospectors, Unis, Litokol are in no less demand. The choice of the required material is not difficult - the characteristics, scope and consumption of each type of the listed adhesive mixtures are described in detail on the packaging.

Before laying ceramics, the evenness of the supporting screed is checked using bubble level and a flat rail 2 m long - at a given length, differences in height should not exceed 5 mm. If irregularities are detected in excess of this value, the screed is leveled with a wide spatula; tile adhesive can be used for this purpose.

Having decided on the method of laying the tiles (straight, diagonal), it is better to make a preliminary marking of the location of the ceramics on the floor. This is done so that the trimmed elements, if any, are located symmetrically with respect to the chosen axes of symmetry of the room - diagonals or lines connecting the midpoints of opposite walls. In some cases, with artistic floor cladding, the installation of ceramics begins from the middle of the floor or its most open zone.

If the walls of the room are also tiled, then the tiles of the vertical surfaces should rest on the floor ceramics - such a joint forms a “lock” that ensures the impermeability of the interface to water.

Summing up the above, we note that all the rules used when laying ceramics on ordinary bases must also be followed when finishing heated floors. But, in addition to these rules, there are specific, obligatory nuances of laying tiles on a warm floor:

• The system of warm floors within 28 days after laying the bearing screed should not be switched on in a mode in which the laid concrete warms up to a temperature above 28 0 С.
• After the final curing of the concrete, it is necessary to warm up the floors by turning on the heating in the normal mode for 2-3 days.
• Laying ceramic tiles on a warm floor must also be carried out at a screed surface temperature of 25-28 0 C.
• Floor heating to a temperature above 28 0 С is not allowed for 12-14 days after the installation of ceramics on it is completed. During this time, complete curing and drying of the tile adhesive should occur, after which grouting is performed. The inclusion of a warm floor after laying the tiles in the heating mode of the room is performed with a dried grout composition.

Installation of ceramics on heated floors arranged in a "dry" way

Laying ceramic tiles in this case requires more complex and time-consuming preparation of the base.

The joints of the HWP, DSP or multilayer plywood, under which the heating circuit is mounted, are sealed with silicone. Along the perimeter of the room along the sheet flooring, a damper tape 5 cm wide is attached to the wall - it will take on the temperature expansion of the future cement screed.

A day later, after the silicone has cured, a reinforcing mesh is mounted to the sheet flooring. Reinforcement will allow the concrete layer to work better in bending and tension.

It is better to use a steel mesh, with a cell size from 20x20 to 50x50 mm and a wire thickness of 1.5-2.0 mm. The grid is attached to the plates with self-tapping screws in a checkerboard pattern with a step of 150-200 mm. cement-sand mortar a layer of 3-4 cm. After laying the concrete, the room is closed to avoid drafts, and, starting from the 4th day, the screed is moistened daily with water without flooding. In 4 weeks, the screed should completely harden and dry, acquiring a light gray color over the entire surface. Before laying ceramic tiles, the screed is primed with an aqueous solution of latex in a ratio of 1: 4 or one of the ready-made primers. The tile should be laid on tile adhesive, the layer of which, after tile correction, should be no more than 1 cm.

The basis from GWP or DSP is inferior in strength characteristics concrete, so they should not be lined with heavy natural materials.

And, accordingly, vice versa - laying mosaics on a warm floor, mounted under a sheet flooring, is a reasonable solution, since specific gravity such a finish is small, the small size of the mosaic elements determines their strength, and the large area of ​​​​the seams compensates for a significant proportion of the thermal expansion of the cladding.

Conclusion

Laying tiles on a warm floor with your own hands is an operation, the complexity of which is not much higher than finishing a conventional floor base. Its main feature is right choice materials, which should not be afraid in the presence of detailed instructions on modern packaging.

zonaplitki.ru

Laying tiles on underfloor heating

To finish the floor, in which the heated floors are concreted, ceramic tiles are most often used. This material is an excellent solution, as it has high level thermal conductivity. So, the heat passing through it will practically not linger and be lost. However, before proceeding with the tiling of the floor, it is necessary to learn some details. In this article, we will tell you about how tiles are laid on a warm floor.

What you need to know

When laying tiles on the floor, it is important to understand that in the case of warm floors a special approach is needed. Moreover, the technology directly depends on the installation method. For example, when installing a water-heated floor, concreting is carried out. It is very easy to lay tiles on a flat screed. It is a completely different matter when it comes to electric heating. The screed is not always poured. So, you can immediately lay tiles on the laid heating mats. It turns out that the heating element will be located directly in the tile adhesive. In the first and second cases, it is quite possible to do all the work with your own hands.

Floor device features

So, if you decide to carry out the work yourself, then you need to take into account several important nuances, which will be described in this article. First of all, you need to remember that the height of the tile finish must be on the same level with all other rooms. Therefore, even at the stage of manufacturing a warm floor, you should make the appropriate measurements.

Advice! If the floor height of other rooms is initially much higher, then the heating cake may be thicker. For example, you can increase the layer on thermal insulation, but not only due to the screed. In this case, the heating efficiency will be reduced to zero.

If the screed is already ready, then when laying the tiles, the minimum layer of tile adhesive should be at least 10 mm. Otherwise, the generated heat will not be dissipated over the entire surface of the floor, and the floor heating will be in strips, only in those places where the heating cable or pipe is laid. Therefore, you should not strive to make the smallest possible layer of tile adhesive or floor screed. So, if you have already taken into account all these details, you can proceed directly to work. Next, we provide you with step-by-step instructions for all the work.

Tile laying instructions

First of all, you need to choose a special adhesive for combination with underfloor heating. The packaging of the adhesive must have a corresponding sign indicating the possibility of using the mixture with floor heating.

So, for work you will need the following set of tools and material:

• Drill.
• Construction mixer.
• Rubber spatula.
• Grout for seams.
• Spatula with teeth.
• Floor primer.
• Special tile adhesive.
• Crosses to form a uniform seam.
• Rubber mallet.
• Tile cutter for cutting tiles.
• Roulette.
• Pencil and marker.
• Building level.
• Container for mixing tile adhesive.

First of all, it is necessary to correctly calculate the required material. To do this, you need to know the floor area. Remember that you should not buy tiles and tile adhesive back to back. Be sure to make a small margin up to 10% of the amount received.

After that, the foundation is prepared. We will consider the option when the warm floor is already filled with a screed. Considering that in most cases the screed is made on the basis of a cement-sand composition, its surface must be impregnated with a primer. You can use a deep penetration primer, for example, concrete contact. It will also be useful to make waterproofing. In order not to create an additional barrier to overcome thermal energy, it is better to use coating waterproofing.

After applying the primer, the floors should dry, about three hours. After that, apply a layer of primer again. This will increase the quality of adhesion of the tile adhesive to the floor. The next step is marking the floor. Here you should immediately decide according to which scheme the tiles will be laid. For example, diagonally, apart, or just in a straight line, seam to seam. Having decided on the scheme, you can mark the floor to make it easier to lay tiles on a warm floor. Remember that the quality of underfloor heating does not depend on the method of laying tiles you choose. Now consider the technology of laying tiles on a warm floor.

Stages of tile installation

So, first of all, prepare the tile adhesive. Mix according to the manufacturer's instructions. There is a recipe on the packaging of the glue. By sticking to it, you will be able to prepare the glue of the perfect consistency. Mixing is carried out using a drill and a construction mixer.

Advice! When the adhesive is thoroughly mixed, leave it for 15 minutes. Then stir again and it's ready to use.

If you do not have experience in laying tiles, then do not make a big batch. So, glue must be applied to the tile itself. It is leveled with a spatula with teeth. Also glue should be applied to the floor. At one time, spread the glue on one square meter. Apply additional adhesive to the edges and corners of the tiles.

One of the main features of laying tiles is that the space between the tiles and the floor must be completely filled with adhesive. There shouldn't be any gaps. Therefore, this moment you should strictly control. Some experts intentionally put a few millimeters more glue on the tile, and then press it in. Due to these actions, excess glue comes out through the seam, which will be an indicator that the glue has completely filled the entire space.

So, according to the markup, apply the tiles to the floor. Press it moderately. Immediately lay a few more tiles. This will allow you to apply a level and align them on all sides of the plane. Lightly pressing down on the tile will cause the adhesive to come out of the seams. It should be removed immediately, as a special grout will be placed in the seams. To form the same seam, be sure to use crosses. When laying, the adhesive may get on the front side of the tile. It must be removed immediately with a damp sponge or soft cloth. If the adhesive is left on, it will dry out, and then there is a risk of damaging the flooring.

Important! A small gap of up to 20 mm must be left between the tile and the wall. This gap will serve as an expansion joint. When exposed to thermal energy, the surface can expand. For this reason, this gap should be carefully controlled.

When the floor surface is completely tiled, it is unacceptable to turn on underfloor heating. Tile adhesive must acquire the necessary hardness in natural conditions. This is the only way to achieve perfect quality. During the laying process, you will also need to trim the tiles; for this, a special tile cutter is used, it can be mechanical or automatic.

After the masonry is completed, when the tile adhesive has dried, it remains for you to grout the joints. For a warm floor, it is necessary to use a special grout that does not allow moisture to pass through. This will be an additional barrier to moisture penetration. When grouting joints, do not rush. It is extremely important to carefully fill all the seams so that there are no voids. When grouting is done, it is necessary to thoroughly wash the tile. But this should not be done immediately after grouting, because it can be washed all over. Wait a little while for the grout to set.

Advice! The resulting gap between the tile and the wall should not be filled with grout. This expansion joint should be filled with silicone sealant.

Conclusion

So, here we have considered all the features of how tiles are installed on underfloor heating. There are no special differences from ordinary masonry, however, there are small nuances. If you listen to the advice from the article, then you will be able to make a high-quality coating on top of the warm floor. As a consequence, in heating season you will enjoy the warmth and comfort indoors. We hope that this article has helped you figure out how to handle all the work yourself. In addition, we invite you to watch the prepared video material. It will help you consolidate all the provided theory from this article. And if you already had experience of similar work, then share it by leaving comments at the end of the article.

bouw.ru

Laying tiles on a warm floor: instructions and preparation steps

Laying tiles on a warm floor requires certain knowledge and preparation. The technology is not particularly complicated, but there are certain points, non-observance of which will nullify all efforts and lead to damage to expensive material.

Varieties of floors under a tile

Before embarking on laying work, it is necessary to understand the specifics of each type of underfloor heating, what it consists of and what types it is. Such insulation of the house is not expensive and almost everyone can afford it.

First you need to decide which type of heating is the most suitable:

• Electric.
• Water.

Types of underfloor heating

Electric

Electric underfloor heating is a multi-layer complex consisting of a heater, a heating element, a screed and a final coating. For the final layer, especially in the bathroom or kitchen, tiles are most suitable.

Depending on the heating element used, the electrical coating can be of the following types:

• Wired.
• infrared.
• Using electric mats.

Types of electric underfloor heating

Each type has its own characteristics and characteristics. To determine the type of floor, the consumer most often starts from two aspects - the initial costs of its installation, subsequent operating costs.

Infrared heating is the most beneficial. At the initial stage, you will have to spend a little more than for the installation of other coatings, but subsequently it is seriously saved family budget when paying for electricity.

This coating is the least "capricious", suitable for any ceramic tile or laminate.

Water

Installation of a water floor is very expensive, but it pays off with subsequent operation. Experts believe that such a coating is not very effective and unsafe.

For its installation, a set of pipes of a certain section is used. The principle is the same as the system central heating. Only in this case, the heater is not mounted on the wall, but on the floor. circulates through pipes hot water. They can be filled with a screed or a dry installation system can be applied, and then the final layer - ceramic tiles - can be placed.

Tile laying instructions

Of course, it is better to entrust the laying of tiles to specialists, but this is associated with high financial costs. Therefore, with a certain preparation and study of the rules, this business will be within the power of everyone.

Before starting work, consider the following points:

• Underfloor heating should be on the same level as the rest of the surfaces in the house.
• The screed layer should not be less than one centimeter, otherwise there is no heat dissipation over the entire surface of the tile.
• The electric floor must not be placed under furniture or covered with anything, if these requirements are not met, all elements will burn out very quickly.

Stages of laying tiles

Laying tiles begins only after the completion of all installation work and fixing elements. Actions are carried out in the following sequence:

Step by step tiling

1. Dilute the adhesive according to the instructions, apply it to the area with a square, the sides of which are equal to 4 ceramic tiles, folded side by side.
2. A layer of tile adhesive is applied to the back of the tile with a spatula.
3. Gently place the tiles on the surface, pressing lightly to the floor in the middle, each time you need to monitor the evenness of the installation.
4. To maintain an even seam between the tiled squares, it is necessary to use plastic crosses.
5. Crosses can be removed only after the surface is completely leveled.
6. After the fixing composition has dried, you can start grouting the joints.

Before starting work, you must carefully read the instructions for use adhesive composition. The main point is the drying time.

While the glue has not dried up, you can remove the curvature in the installation and pull out the cross. After it has completely dried, this will not be possible.

For the professional performance of work on your own, you will need the following tools and materials:

Necessary tools for laying tiles

• Adhesive for laying tiles on underfloor heating.
• Grout for seams.
• The spatula is soft rubber.
• Notched metal spatula.
• Plastic crosses.
• Level.
• Tile cutter.
• Ceramic tile.

When buying tiles, add 15% to the surface area to be covered. Since part of the purchased volume will go to pruning or battle.

When choosing a grout color, it is worth starting from the tone of the tile. The grout should be slightly darker.

Until all components are completely dry, heating system sex is strictly prohibited. It takes up to three weeks for complete drying.

How to prepare tiles for floor heating

Before you start laying the tiled layer, you need to make sure that the “warm floor” system is working. All wires and communications must be completely hidden.

Floor cement screed

Usually, a cement-sand screed is used to hide the elements. It should be smooth, even and completely dry.

Any contamination from the surface is removed, the irregularities are overwritten. The main thing is that the screed is filled in level, then laying the tiles will be much easier.

The screed must be covered with a deep penetration primer or concrete contact. It takes two hours to dry the compositions. Then the procedure should be repeated, this will ensure better adhesion of the tiles.

Do not carry out priming or tiling work immediately after checking the system. It must be turned off and wait for the surface to cool completely. Otherwise, the adhesive base will dry out and will not hold the top layer.

Layout of the room for laying tiles

Before laying tiles, you need to mark the floor.

It is even worth drawing a layout. This is especially important when using multi-colored tiles or laying patterns, piping.

Tiling scheme

There are three main laying patterns:

• Diagonally.
• Horizontally.
• On the run.

In the first case, a large amount of material goes into residues. You can generally use squares different size and put them apart.

All this must be clearly marked on a piece of paper, where the layout scheme should be displayed in a reduced size.

Then the scheme is proportionally transferred to the floor. Beginners should completely mark the entire surface, with a bright selection of points. Marking is carried out using a chopping cord with paint or chalk.

The main thing is to determine the line of the first row. It is measured from the longest wall. Then the rest of the surface of the room is marked. This method is relevant for tiles without a pattern.

Tile laying options

For a tiled layer with a pattern, you need to draw not a horizontal, but a diagonal.

Using a long tape measure or rope, we connect the corners of the room diagonally. The point of intersection of the lines is the center of the room. It is from this place that the markup begins.

After marking is completed, it is worth laying out the tiles and checking how correctly the main lines are drawn.

The method of laying the tiles does not affect the functional features of the warm floor at all. Therefore, you can follow your individual preferences.

glue preparation step

After marking and laying out the tiles in a dry way, you can proceed to the main work. It all starts with the preparation of tile adhesive.

For this you need:

• Basic mix.
• Capacity.
• Drill or perforator (used for better mixing of glue).

Cooking rules are displayed in the instructions from the manufacturer. Strict adherence to it will ensure the receipt of a good adhesive substance. Do not mix the entire composition at once. It is better to do this in small portions, since after drying, it can no longer be used.

Preparing tile adhesive

Pour into prepared container required amount water. The mixture is then added and mixed thoroughly. If you do the opposite, you get a large number of lumps that will be difficult to break. The finished glue has the consistency of thick sour cream.

A small amount of the mixture can be mixed manually using a conventional stick. This will take a longer time. It is better to use a drill, puncher or construction mixer.

The composition should not be liquid. This is checked as follows: you need to put a small amount of the prepared mass on the spatula and tilt it. If the mixture holds, does not run or drip, a quality adhesive is obtained.

After kneading, the mass should stand for 10-15 minutes. Then it mixes again. After that, the composition is ready for use.

Seam Process

After laying the tiles and its complete drying, the seams are processed. For this, a special moisture-resistant grout is purchased. It can be sold in the store already ready for use.

The mixture is applied to a rubber spatula, with which all joints are evenly filled. The grout should be just below the main tile covering, that is, not protrude above the surface.

Scheme of the location and movement of the rubber spatula when grouting

Do not wait for the grout to dry completely. No later than half an hour, excess stains must be washed off with warm water and a soft cloth. If you delay a little, the dirt will dry out and it will be very difficult to remove it.

Laying ceramic tiles with your own hands does not require any in-depth knowledge. You need some skill and free time.

Subsequently, you can get the perfect ceramic surface that will hold firmly on the warm floor for many years.

Video: Laying tiles on a warm floor

promzn.ru

Is it possible and how to install an electric floor heating on a tile?

Is it possible to install an electric underfloor heating without dismantling the tile and cover it with ceramic tiles?
Marina

Expert Answer

Good afternoon, Marina!

Laying a new ceramic coating over an electric underfloor heating laid on an old tile is allowed. In this case, it is important to follow a few rules.

1. It is necessary to carefully analyze whether increasing the floor height by 20-25 mm will prevent the doors from opening, hide engineering Communication etc.
2. The old base must be monolithic. To get information about its quality, tap the entire tile with a wooden mallet. If necessary, individual tiles are removed, and the voids are filled with a cement-sand mortar.
3. To increase the adhesive ability of the old coating, it is recommended to walk on it with a grinder with a diamond disc, make notches, drills, etc. Less effective way is the treatment of the base with primers of the Betonkontakt type.
4. Part of the glue is applied to the old tiles, after which the heating mats are laid. After that, according to the usual technology, a new ceramic tile is laid. The total thickness of the adhesive layer should not exceed 10–15 mm.
5. It is not allowed to match the seams of the new and old coating.

As you can see, the difficulty lies only in preparing the base of the floor. However, if possible old tiles it is better to remove it, and lay a layer of thermal insulation in its place. This will prevent heat leakage into the ceiling and will reduce energy costs.

Thanks to my versatile hobbies, I write on various topics, but my favorite ones are engineering, technology and construction. Perhaps because I know many nuances in these areas, not only theoretically, as a result of studying at a technical university and graduate school, but also from the practical side, since I try to do everything with my own hands.

aqua-rmnt.com

Laying tiles on a warm floor with your own hands (photo, video)

In a modern home, underfloor heating is not a luxury, but an objective necessity. Especially if the family has small children. It creates coziness in the house and can help reduce heating costs.

Systems "Warm floor" according to the type of heating element are divided into water and electric. Each of them has both advantages and weak sides, analyzing which each person makes his choice.

Having decided on the type of heating, the owner of the house again finds himself in a dilemma - which type of flooring is more suitable for his new floor.

What is this article about

What flooring is best for underfloor heating?

Of all the known coating options for underfloor heating, linoleum is the least suitable. After all, when heated, it becomes soft and can be easily deformed with the least mechanical impact. In addition, inexpensive types of linoleum have a large proportion of the synthetic component and can release toxic substances from heating.

It is acceptable to cover the TP with carpet. It is good to use laminate for these purposes, but when choosing it, you need to pay attention to the markings. Many grades of material have recently begun to indicate the permissible heating temperature.

The most suitable flooring in this case is ceramic tiles, porcelain stoneware and stone. This is due to the fact that these types of material have a high degree of thermal conductivity and thermal inertia, according to these indicators they are many times superior to all other types of flooring.

Before you figure out how to lay tiles on a warm floor, you should find out which of the above types is preferable for a home.

The choice of tiles for underfloor heating

When choosing between ceramic tiles, porcelain stoneware and stone, it is worth analyzing them in different aspects. From the point of view of thermal conductivity, stone wins slightly, porcelain stoneware is in second place and tile is somewhat behind, since this characteristic depends on the porosity of the material - the higher the porosity, the lower the thermal conductivity. But the difference in performance is small.

Wear resistance in our case is not significant, because even the lowest indicator that ceramics has is sufficient for non-commercial premises. And if you compare the price, then ceramic tiles definitely win.

In any case, it is up to the customer to decide based on financial capabilities.

Laying tiles on different types of electric floor heating

Depending on the type of floors, there are some differences in the technology of laying tiles. If you take into account all the possible nuances, then laying tiles on a warm floor with your own hands will be within the power of every person, and not just a master tiler.

Tile on infrared floor

On a warm electric floor, mounted using an infrared film, tiles can be laid in two ways:

• with the use of gypsum fiber (GVL) or glass-magnesium (SML) sheet;
• with concrete screed.

In the first variant, a hydrobarrier should be placed on the heating film, then a GVL or LSU sheet. And on top of the sheets, tiles are already being laid. These materials are good because they have a perfectly flat surface, so the tile lays down without flaws.

It is worth noting that this method is faster, because before laying the tiles, you do not have to wait for the screed to dry. But there are also disadvantages - a layer of sheets will prevent the floors from warming up, the process of heating the tile will be longer.

In the case of pouring wet screed technological process longer, but such installation will cost a little less. For greater strength, the screed should be reinforced. It is important to use for this not a metal, but a plastic mesh. The concrete layer in this case can be small - about 5 mm, you can replace it with liquid tile adhesive. After the screed has dried, the tile is laid.

Laying tiles on electrical mats

This type of underfloor heating is the easiest to install and does not require any special knowledge and skills. In addition, before laying the tiles, it is not necessary to make a sand-cement screed. The laid mat is covered with a thin layer of tile adhesive and the tile is laid.

cable floor

This type of underfloor heating is rarely used in apartment buildings. The reason for this is the need to lay a rather thick cement-sand layer (4-5 cm) under the tile. As a result, the whole structure “steals” about 8 cm of the height of the room.

water floor

A water floor is more often used in private houses, since for its installation it is necessary to deepen the floors. This is due to the fact that the screed with this option requires at least 8 cm, plus the pipes themselves in the underfloor heating system add height. Thus, the floor can be raised by more than 10 cm. But this type of TP is the cheapest to operate, therefore it is quite popular.

The process of laying tiles on a warm water floor is the same as when laying it on ordinary floors. The only difference is that you need to apply glue to both the base and the back of the tile.

As can be seen from the information presented in the article, laying tiles on a warm floor is no more difficult than on a regular one. The main thing is to follow some simple rules:

1. When laying any type of tile on a warm floor, use a tile adhesive specially designed for this type of work;
2. For inter tile joints it is better to use a two-component epoxy grout;
3. If a sand-cement screed was poured under the tile laying, then you should wait for it to dry completely and only after that start working with the floor covering.

izplitki.com

• 

The tile is an excellent finishing material that looks beautiful and is not afraid of moisture, dirt and dust. Due to its technical properties, tiles are often used in facing works, which makes the premises attractive and easy to use. But before tiling walls, it is often necessary to lay electrical wiring for various household appliances. Tips for the correct laying of electrical wires or cables are given in this article.

Regardless of the room in which it will be performed laying ceramic tiles if you need electricity in the room, it is better to take care of this in advance. Electrical sockets and switches may be needed in the bathroom and kitchen, in the boiler room and on the balcony. And before, it is recommended to properly lay the wiring so that it is not damaged during operation.

Quite often, repair work is done by hand, which allows you to significantly save money, since the services of masters are not cheap. But homeowners do not always know how to properly perform certain work, which can lead to disastrous results. Due to the fact that it is often necessary to drill a hole in the tile, and you do not remember where the electrical wiring is located, the wire or cable is damaged by a drill or drill and the wiring becomes unusable.

When wiring horizontally in a room where the walls will be tiled, it is best to choose a height where you can in no way damage the wires when drilling. For example, you need to lay wires along the wall, lay them under the very top, as high as possible, where it is only convenient to make strobes for wire / cable. But even in this case, it is advisable to remember well, or even better, draw and save a drawing with the drawn wiring in order to avoid damaging the wires when you need to hang any cabinets on the wall.

If possible, for example, you will mount a hanging or stretch ceiling, then it is better to lay the wiring in this void and in this way you will make the job easier and protect yourself from damage to electrical wires. More often, vertical wiring is damaged when wires run down from the ceiling to outlets and low-lying switches. In order to reduce the likelihood of damage to the wires when drilling holes in the tile, you need to lay the wires strictly vertically.

Due to this, when you need to drill a hole and fix something, you will know for sure that the wire / cable goes strictly vertically and you need to drill, retreating three to five centimeters to the left / right. Then you will definitely not break the wiring, and you will not need to lay new wires in the baseboards or use an extension cord. If you do not need more fastening strength, then it is better to use good glue, with which you can glue a shelf in the bathroom or hooks for towels / bathrobes.

If you need to fix something heavy to the wall, which will require drilling holes in the wall lined with ceramic tiles, then choose a mounting location so as not to damage the wiring. Try to move cabinets, boiler and other heavy objects away from the place where they are laid wires under the tile. Otherwise, the electric cable can be damaged with a drill or a perforator drill, and then part of the wiring will not function. And in order to repair it, you will either have to remove and repair the wire, or lay a new wiring, which is also troublesome and long.

Masters "with gray hair at the temples" remember how open wiring was done thirty years ago, they saw what changes took place in technology fifteen years ago and can compare with in modern ways open wiring. In order for you to have something to compare with and make it easier to make decisions, we will make a brief overview of all the existing and existing methods.

It is now so beautifully called, but before it was the only option for open wiring. It was used not only in the bath, but also in residential premises. The wires were fixed on porcelain insulator rollers.

For this wiring electric wires must be only single-core, the cups are fixed at a distance of no more than ten centimeters, plus one at each turn. The wires had to be twisted, and this is a long and tedious task. In addition, white insulation became dusty and dirty for a short time, various spider bugs very often settled in it for permanent residence.

Today, open wiring by the described method is mounted only by great lovers of antiquity, who do not know what it will look like in a few years.

A better option, electrical cables were hidden in plastic pipes which looked much better on the walls. In addition, plastic pipes served as additional protection against mechanical damage.

Disadvantages - the complexity of installation and routine maintenance. Electricians still remember how difficult it was to pull cables through pipes, especially if there were turns.

Often the pipes were cut, and after pulling the cables, they were connected with couplings. Another significant drawback is the great difficulty during the production of repair work. Due to the low cost, open wiring in plastic pipes is still used quite often today.

Open wiring in the cable channel

According to most professional electricians, the most the best way open wiring. In essence, it can be called open only by the technology of laying cables; in appearance, it bears little resemblance to the usual options; rather, it can be called semi-open.

Manufacturers produce a huge number of options both in terms of the number of cables and the method of fixation, overall dimensions and availability of additional accessories. The advantages include ease of installation, durability, safety of operation, versatility of use, the presence of numerous special additional fittings. Additional elements solve issues with internal and external corners, turns, connections of sockets, switches, mounting boxes, etc.

It is on this type of open wiring that we will dwell in the article. Before directly considering the issues of fixing cable channels, you should learn a little about their varieties and technical capabilities.

Cable channel prices

cable channel

Types and features of channels

Cable channels are classified according to several important features.

Characteristic	Description	Illustration
By location.	They can be floor, parapet, plinth and trunk. The appearance of each category is maximally adapted to the installation site, it may resemble profile moldings.
By color performance.	There are light, dark and with imitation of natural wood.
By linear dimensions.	Designed for one, two, three or more cables. External dimensions range from 40×25 mm to 100×60 mm. May have acute or rounded corners and larger lids. There are options with high covers, their shelves cover the internal elements of the channel along the entire height - it gives the impression of a monolithic product. This not only improves the appearance of the wiring, but also increases its security from the negative influence of external factors.
By the number of locks - with one or two locks.	Two locks more securely hold the lid from spontaneous opening, exclude the possibility of deformation of the lid.
According to the material of manufacture.	Plastic, steel and aluminum. Aluminum ones are covered with plastic wrap for various types of wood, they are perfectly combined with existing interiors of the premises, but for the price they are considered the most expensive option. Plastics do not support open combustion, it is allowed to use such channels for laying cables with voltage up to 1000 V.
According to the degree of protection against dust and moisture.	Separate brands of plastic channels have a degree of protection IP55, which allows them to be used in open areas and in rooms with high levels of humidity, protects against multidirectional splashes of water. For a bath, this is a very important characteristic.

Video - How to choose and install a cable channel

The main parameters when choosing a cable channel are the cross section and the number of cables that are planned to be laid in the network. Of course, you need to pay attention to the appearance, try to choose an option that would harmonize as much as possible with the existing interior of the bathhouse.

Stages of wiring in a cable duct

Step 1. Draw a plan for the placement of electrical networks, appliances and equipment.

Estimate several options, consider the possibility of increasing the power and the number of electrical fittings. Depending on the maximum total power of all consumers of electrical energy, select the cable diameter. To facilitate the choice, be guided by table No. 1.

Experienced electricians do not keep all the values ​​in their heads, they only remember that 1 mm2 of a copper cable section is designed for 1.3 kW of power at a voltage of 220 V, and 1 mm2 of an aluminum cable holds only 0.5 kW at the same voltage. What follows is simple arithmetic. If a section of 2.5 mm2 is indicated on the sheath of a copper cable, then it can be used to connect current consumers with a total power of 2.5 × 1.3 = 3.25 kV. Always round up and use this cable for 3.0kW.

Practical advice. For a bath, it is quite enough to buy an ordinary plastic box with dimensions of 40 × 25 mm; a cable that can withstand power up to 10 kW easily enters it. In the implementation there are boxes made under the ceiling plinth or floor plinth. Perfect solution, but it needs to be thought out even before finishing finishing works walls or floors. We recommend that the central wiring be mounted above the floor and the terminals below lighting, mounting boxes, sockets and switches to do from below. But this is an amateur, you can use other options for installing electrical wiring.

You should be drawn as a general circuit diagram electrical wiring starting from the introductory switchboard, as well as a separate circuit for each bath room.

Choose fasteners depending on the material of the walls. Self-tapping screws are needed for wood, special hardware for drywall and dowels for brick.

Each manufacturer of cable channels produces a wide range of additional elements: internal and outside corners, triangles, plugs, connectors, junction boxes, sockets, switches, etc. Carefully count the nomenclature and the total quantity, we advise you to take a few pieces in stock. They cost a penny, it will end up being much cheaper than going to the store again to purchase the missing items.

Step 2 Make a markup. For example, we will take a bathhouse, in which the walls are already fully sheathed and flooring is laid. There remains only one option for open wiring in cable channels - over the walls. It is better to do the wiring near the floor, in this case it is much easier to drill holes and fix the cable channel. Working under the ceiling all the time with outstretched arms is tiring and uncomfortable. Moreover, you will have to hold a rather heavy drill and a screwdriver in your hands.

Experienced electricians on the walls make markings only for mounting boxes, switches and sockets, cable channels are installed immediately without drawing preliminary lines. They take a section of the channel, put it against the wall, set the level from above (or from the side) and adjust the spatial position. Then, with one hand, they hold the box, and with the other hand they drill holes in the bottom for the hardware with a drill. This is quite difficult, you need not only to have experience, but also to be able to optimally organize the installation process. We will tell you how to make detailed markup for beginners, this will help to avoid annoying mistakes.

Hardware prices

set of hardware

How to mark up cable channels

You need to have a water level, a blued rope, a ruler and a pencil.

Do not be afraid to use blue - broken lines will be covered with a cable channel. Start marking from the switchboard, while at the same time take into account not only the characteristics of the cables and the placement of sockets, mounting boxes, switches, etc., but also the layout and purpose of the premises.

The markings and calculations are completed, you can proceed with the installation.

Step 3 Fastening cable channels. Mounting methods depend on the material of the walls and the material of the finishing sheathing. Let's consider each option in detail.

Prices for building level

construction level

Fastening cable channels to plasterboard boards

Gypsum boards consist of two layers of paper with gypsum in between. The material is relatively new and is very popular among professional construction companies - it is easy to work with, it is very technological, etc. But consumers cannot say so much about this material. good words- the strength of gypsum boards is below any criticism. Remove paper from drywall and it will crumble, any tangible force on drywall does not remain without visible damage to the surface. Accordingly, it is rather problematic to attach cable channels to such material. It makes no sense to use screws (albeit special ones). It is necessary to “overdo it” a little while screwing, as the thread in the plaster will scroll and the fastening strength will approach zero.

On such walls, we recommend using only plastic cable channels, the use of aluminum is highly undesirable. You need to fix the plastic with liquid nails, in the most critical places you can additionally use special screws.

Practical advice. Due to the fact that gypsum boards have a decorative finish, it must be tested for adhesion with liquid nails. Not all types of paints and not all types of wallpaper are suitable for gluing. First, in some secluded place, glue a small piece of a plastic box and check the strength of the bonding in a day. Everything is fine - you can use this technology.

Apply liquid nails to the box from the back in a thin layer, the application strip should be wavy to increase the adhesion area. There should be just enough glue so that during the pressing of the cable channels it does not protrude beyond their perimeter. To increase the reliability of fastening, you can additionally fix it with self-tapping screws.

Fastening cable channels to brick walls

A complex and time-consuming option, you must use dowels. The advantage of dowels is high reliability, but in our case there are no tangible physical activity channels are not foreseen, the advantage becomes unnecessary, and large labor costs remain. How to fix cable channels on dowels?

1. Put the cut blank of the channel in place of fixation, drill holes in the bottom with a drill for metal at a distance of 15 ÷ 20 centimeters. Drill holes carefully, only the end of the drill needs to be deepened into the wall. In this way, markings for installing dowels on the channel and wall are simultaneously made.

   

2. Take away the channel, change the drill to the winning one, switch the drill from drilling mode to punching mode. Use a drill to make holes for the dowels.

   

   

   Important. Drill carefully, select the correct diameter of the drill. It should be a few tenths of a millimeter smaller than the diameter of the plastic element of the dowel. This element should enter the hole with little effort.

3. Put the plastic cable channel in place, align the holes in it and the wall, insert the plastic elements of the dowels, hammer in the metal dowels.

   

If the wall is uneven, then choose places for drilling holes in convex sections, so you can avoid visible deformation of the cable channel. Wrong - not a problem. Most metal dowels are threaded, you can unscrew them a little, loosen the pressure against the wall and thereby correct the deformation that has appeared.

In all places where individual sections of cable channels are cut or joined, additional elements to be connected must be fixed. This general rule for all ways of fixing cable channels.

Professional installers use an air gun and special nails to fix cable channels to brick or concrete surfaces. But a pneumatic nail gun is expensive equipment; it is not advisable to purchase it for one bath.

Air nailer prices

pneumatic nail gun

Fastening cable channels to wooden walls

For baths - the most common option, fastening is carried out with screws, the length of the screws is approximately 1.5 ÷ 2 centimeters. You can first drill holes in the cable channel on a flat plane at a distance of up to twenty centimeters, and then use them for fixing. It's easier, but longer. If there is practice construction works, then the screws can be screwed simultaneously into the bottom of the cable channel and the wall.

Problems may arise during the laying of open wiring on walls upholstered with clapboard. The boards of the lining have a profile, the screws should be fastened carefully. If the self-tapping screw hit the convex section of the profile - excellent, you can fully tighten it. If you have to screw the self-tapping screw into the concave part of the profile, do not tighten the self-tapping screw to the stop, make sure that it does not violate the linearity of the plastic channel.

We have already advised buying special additional elements for passing external and internal corners, wiring at right angles, tees, etc. All joints can be cut at right angles, the cut may not be perfectly even. Overhead elements will close problem areas, the connection will be beautiful, work will be significantly accelerated. You can cut a plastic cable channel with a hacksaw for metal, special assembly scissors or a circular grinder (grinder) with a metal disc.

And what to do if for some reason there are no additional elements, how to cut the channel so that the connection is not striking?

First, use standard long channels, do not rush to cut them into pieces. You should always have all the segments at hand, among them you can choose the one you need in length and not touch the whole one. It will be necessary for this to shift the outlet a few centimeters in one direction or another - there is nothing to worry about.

If you need to store the purchased cable channels for a long time, then put them on a flat plane, do not let them get direct sunlight. Over time, all plastics under the influence of sunlight darken and lose their plasticity. Do not believe the manufacturer's advertisements about "total resistance" to UV rays due to modern technologies, various innovative additives do not completely protect plastic from such influences, but only slow down the processes of physical aging.

Mounted cable channel

Conducting hidden wiring is not as difficult as it might seem. And today we will tell you exactly about this, because it is the “closed” wiring that is a much more aesthetic and, accordingly, a popular way.

What is important: by installing hidden wiring, you save the interior of your own apartment. We will undertake to tell you how to conduct high-quality hidden electrical wiring in the walls in your home with our own efforts, without spending money on inviting an electrician.

Benefits of concealed wiring

Hidden wiring is a great option for major repairs or total replacement of wiring in the house.

The most tangible benefits are as follows:

• as mentioned above, the interior of the rooms is preserved, because all the wiring is hidden in the walls or in a space closed from the eyes by plasterboard sheets;
• higher fire safety (after all, if the walls are made of non-combustible materials - gypsum, concrete or brick, then the ignited wiring will not cause a fire);
• increasing the service life of the network, because it is truly protected both from mechanical influences and from other negative external factors (for example, from ultraviolet radiation).

However, there was a place for shortcomings. The most noticeable of them are some laborious installation in comparison with the open method (although it is worth it), as well as the complexity, if necessary, of repair work. The reason for this, of course, is clear - in the event of any malfunction (for example, a wire break or burnout), the wall finish will have to be destroyed. But whatever one may say, the closed wiring method is much more reliable. So, we figured out the disadvantages and advantages - this means that you can get down to business.

Installation: step by step instructions

Consider the procedure for laying electrical wiring using the example of a house with concrete or brick walls.

Create a schema

Creating a diagram involves drawing a special plan, which marks: the path of the power line, the location of sockets, switches, power boxes and lighting devices in each individual room. Such a scheme is also useful for calculating the volume of materials used. An illustrative example for one-room apartment or at home:

• make sure that the cable runs exclusively in vertical and horizontal positions, and that a distance of 15-20 centimeters from the route to the floor or ceiling is observed;
• remember what is always done at the entrance to the room, and (although not regulated by any GOSTs or other regulatory documents) should be as convenient as possible for a person (this is how sockets are mounted behind the countertop in the kitchen, behind the TV in the living room, etc.);
• take into account the fact that the distance from the power line to the batteries, pipeline and ventilation ducts must be at least 50 centimeters (this is stated in the PUE).

We prepare materials and tools

This stage involves counting the number of switches, sockets, the required cable length and other network elements. It will also be necessary to perform to determine the diameter of the cores.

Under no circumstances should the calculation be neglected.- this is fraught with the fact that a too thin conductor will not cope with the load coming to it from powerful household appliances.

When the calculation is completed, select the necessary switches and sockets (for example, only waterproof product models are installed in the bathroom).

The minimum set of materials is as follows:

• gypsum mortar;
• insulating tape;
• terminal blocks;
• protective corrugated pipe (optional);
• cable - usually used;
• distribution wiring;
• socket boxes;
• sockets;
• switches.

The minimum set of tools, in turn, looks like this:

• Master OK;
• simple pencil;
• building level;
• screwdriver;
• special tool for removing insulation from wires;
• multimeter;
• hammer;
• chisel;
• a tool for chasing walls (both a chasing cutter and a puncher or a grinder will do).

We make strobes for wiring

When all the necessary set of tools and materials is ready, we proceed to chasing. To do this, special markings are applied to the walls, thanks to which you can conveniently navigate when making recesses. By the way, the procedure can be simplified by using a rope painted with chalk or a special marking cord.

When the markup is applied, we take the tool and use it to make grooves in the walls. If you have a grinder in your hands, you need to cut two parallel lines with a distance of 3-4 centimeters between them, after which it remains to gouge the strobe with a hammer and chisel. The depth of the groove depends on the cross section of the cable and is determined taking into account a small margin (it is associated with subsequent plastering).

Of course, the best device for wall chasing is a specialized tool, also known as a chasing cutter. The wall chaser will make recesses quickly and without any hassle. The only catch is that the cost of the tool is quite high and it makes no sense to purchase it for a one-time use.

The last step of the gating stage is the creation of special recesses for sockets and junction boxes. A drill with a crown nozzle with a diameter of 6.8 centimeters will save here. And when the recesses are ready, we proceed to the installation. For reliability, socket boxes and boxes “sit down” on a gypsum mortar, which securely fastens the plastic to concrete wall. At the same time, the edges of the products are placed flush with the surface - this will facilitate the procedure for decorating the walls in the future.

Cabling

Next, we lay the line, placing the cable along the strobe. First, the conductor mode into segments of the length we need (for example, a segment from a distribution box to an outlet, and so on), leaving a margin for connecting the cores. Next, we fix the cable in strobes with gypsum mortar. When the work is done, it remains to make a hidden wiring call to check the correctness of the connections, as well as the overall health of the network. Are you sure everything is fine? So, you can safely putty the wall!

I would like to make a separate reservation regarding the use of corrugated tubes when laying the cable. The protective corrugation is intended to save the line from all kinds of detrimental mechanical loads, shocks and similar phenomena. However, the use of such material is a purely individual thing.

This concludes the hidden wiring in the house or apartment. We can make sure that there is nothing particularly difficult or incomprehensible in the procedure. The main thing is to be careful, and also observe the color marking of wires when making connections. At the end, it remains to install sockets with switches, as well as protective automation in the shield (after which you can start installing chandeliers and arranging the premises).

A few words about drywall

We talked about wiring in concrete and brick walls. However, they did not mention the now common material - drywall, in which laying the cable is much easier. Easier because there is no need to perform gating.

The power line is drawn under the drywall sheets between the metal profiles:

When it is planned to install electrical wiring in a house from scratch, it often becomes a question of choosing a laying method. Everyone wants to do all this with a minimum of effort and as efficiently as possible.

In other articles on our site, we have already considered options for hidden and open wiring for different options. building materials. In this article, we will take a closer look at the rules for installing hidden wiring under a screed layer.

This option has recently become increasingly popular, because when replacing the screed, the rough work on wall chasing is significantly reduced.

The problem of wiring under the floor

Laying electrical wiring under the floor has its drawbacks. And in order to minimize them as much as possible, it is very important to properly plan the wiring and accurately determine the number of electrical points. After all, it will be almost impossible to make changes in the future.

So:

• The main problem that you may encounter with this type of wiring is the difficulty of complying with clause 2.1.23 of the PUE. It requires that all junctions and branches of wires be available for maintenance and repair.
• This greatly complicates the installation of wiring under the screed layer. Indeed, in any group network, we cannot do without. But we cannot equip them under the floor.
• There are several ways out of this situation. The simplest is the arrangement of junction boxes in the wall directly above the floor. But this method is aesthetically not very attractive, there is a possibility that children or pets can climb into the box, and if the room is flooded, it generally becomes very dangerous. Therefore, this method is rarely used.
• Much more often, home wiring is equipped using socket boxes as junction boxes. Indeed, by connecting each electrical point in series, it is possible to do without junction boxes. But there is one big problem here. If the wire that feeds a certain electric point breaks, all subsequent points also become inoperable.
• And of course, it is possible to arrange a junction box in a standard place under the ceiling. But this eliminates all the advantages of laying wiring under the floor and leads us to the so-called classic version of hidden wiring.
• From practice, I can say that some people ignore clause 2.1.23 of the PUE and equip junction boxes under a layer of screed. But this leads to problems in the future, and these problems can be associated not only with the wiring, but also with the screed due to insufficient rigidity of the stationary boxes. Therefore, I can not advise you this method of installation.

• The only exception is with wooden floors. Where it is possible to create original removable beams in the floor for servicing junction boxes. This method causes certain difficulties in implementation and has its own nuances, but as one of the options it is quite acceptable.

Under floor wiring diagrams

Based on the foregoing, let's look at the most common wiring scheme when laying it under the floor. In most cases, the method of using embedded socket boxes as distribution boxes is used.

And in order to minimize the disadvantages of this method, it is very important to apply correct scheme wiring for each separate room.

• First of all, it is very important for us to separate the power supply circuits of various electrical outlets as much as possible. Due to this, in case of damage in one of the sections, not the entire network of the room, but only a small section, will lose its operability.
• Therefore, based on the geometry of the room and the layout of sockets and switches, the room should be divided into 2-3 sections. Each site should have 2-3 electrical outlets. Usually these are 1-2 sockets and a switch (see).

• Also, our instructions advise you to immediately decide on the central outlet to which the main group wire will be connected. Usually, either the most loaded electrical point, or the most conveniently located in the center of the room, is chosen as such.
• If you choose the most loaded electrical outlet, usually double or, then it is very important that it is as close to the center of the room as possible. Otherwise, due to the large length of wires extending from it, the price increases slightly.
• If you choose an outlet located in the center of the room, but not the most loaded, then it is much more difficult to implement the connection itself. Indeed, in addition to the supply group wire, 2-3 more wires should be connected to it to power individual sections of your electrical network. For a single socket mortgage box, it is quite difficult to accommodate such a number of wires.
• If there are not so many electrical outlets in your room, for example, two or three sockets and a switch, then the separation of power into separate sections may not be done. But it all depends on your preferences and wishes for the reliability of the power grid.

Rules for installing wiring under the floor

Wiring on the floor has a number of limitations and in most cases depends on the material of the floors themselves. For wooden floors, they make the same requirements, and for embedding in a screed, they are somewhat lower.

We will first consider General requirements, and then for each of these cases.

So:

• First of all, it should be remembered that, according to clause 2.1.22 of the PUE, at the junctions of the wires, a supply of wire must be provided sufficient for reconnection. The electrical wiring of a house with installation under the floor is especially demanding on this parameter. After all, to replace it, more significant repairs will be required. Therefore, we advise you to leave a very good supply of wire.
• It should also be remembered that at the junctions and in general along the entire length of the wire, according to clause 2.1.24 of the Electrical Installation Code, it should not be affected by mechanical forces. That is, no tension is allowed.
• In order to exclude mechanical impact on the wire, it must be protected. For laying in the screed, a plastic corrugated pipe should be used for this.

Note! Many videos on the Internet suggest using steel corrugation or even metal pipe, but these are unnecessary precautions. According to the norms of the PUE, a plastic corrugation is quite enough for this.

• or pipe, according to the table. 2.1.3 PUE should be used when installing hidden wiring under wooden floors or when wiring crosses other combustible building materials. It should be remembered that the pipes should be laid in such a way as to make it impossible for moisture to accumulate in them. And if you are laying wiring in a damp or dusty room, then you need to connect the pipes to prevent moisture from entering them.

Note! Electrical wiring on the floor wooden house can also be made in a plastic corrugated pipe. But in this case, it should be covered on all sides with fireproof material. This is quite troublesome and time-consuming, so this method is used extremely rarely.

Output

Now you know how to mount the wiring in the house under the floors with your own hands.

As you can see, this installation method has its own nuances and is far from always optimal. This is especially true for apartments and private one-story houses, although much here depends on each individual case and your wishes. But with a two-story private construction, this installation option can be very profitable. After all, it will allow you to place all electrical engineering networks in one place.