The most effective ways to remove scars after surgery. How to grout tile joints How to level dry grout on tiles
Sometimes cleaning and washing the joints between tiles simply cannot save the situation. So for example, in separate parts in my bathroom (mostly directly next to the bathtub), the grout is in selected places completely gone. The water getting into the tile joints (and my child really likes to splash:) simply washed away the entire grout solution.
It makes sense to re-grout the seams if there is a distance of at least 2 millimeters between the tiles, otherwise the grout will not be able to adhere. If you just want to re-grout the seams, just buy a special seam-rubbing tool at a hardware store. There are even special solutions to soften the seams.
Since it was useless to save the seams, I bought grout for the seams.
The grout dries very quickly. Follow the manufacturer's instructions. Dry grout is diluted with just plain water. In order for the grout to adhere better and not have time to dry out during the process, the solution should turn out to be even slightly liquid.
We rub it using a special tool. If the grout contains cement, it is recommended to use a respirator. Grout the grout at an angle of 30-45 degrees. Don’t just cover the seams with grout, but try to rub it into the seams so that the seams are completely filled with grout.
After applying the grout, wait required amount time (for KIILTO 20-30 minutes), after which the tile itself must be cleaned of grout. Since I used a small spatula to apply the grout, I did not need to dry remove the grout.
To wash the tile itself from grout residues, walk over its entire surface with a well-wrung out sponge.
Level and smooth the seams using a jointer, a wooden stick with a sharpened end, or the end of a toothbrush. A special stick is included with KIILTO grout. Then smooth the seam along the edges with a sponge. Don't forget to rinse the sponge.
To prevent the tiles on the floor from cracking and to last longer, it is recommended to cover the tiles directly on top with an additional means to protect the seams, for example, like this:
 |
| seam protection product Sea, KIILTO |
Some restoration projects involve collapsed masonry elements that require repair of both the joints and the masonry elements. In a process called grouting, the binder waterproofing material applied with a brush and scraper into the seams and onto the surface of the masonry. The excess mortar is then brushed off just before setting is complete.
Products based on cement and sand with waterproofing additives and adhesives are used as a solution. Some materials contain metallic additives that can change the color of the substrate when oxidized. Information provided by the manufacturer should be reviewed to determine the suitability of the product for a particular application.
Bag grouting is a method in which a jute cloth bag is used to remove the grout after application to the wall. The slurry is used to fill pores, cracks and grooves in both joints and masonry, providing waterproofing to the entire façade. The grout does not change the color or appearance of the wall surface, nor the breathability of the facing materials. Grout, however, gives the walls a uniform color or shading; the effects depend on the grout color chosen. Trial areas should be tested to analyze the effectiveness and acceptability of the treatment.
Grouting is a very labor-intensive processing method, so the workers performing it must be qualified and have experience in applying such systems. If the mortar is removed too early, the material will be removed from the pores of the masonry and sufficient waterproofing will not be provided. On the other hand, if the solution dries completely, then the excess will be almost impossible to remove, which will worsen the appearance of the base.
The time for applying and removing the solution depends on weather conditions, the condition of the base (smooth, glossy or porous) and the composition of the material. Workers must have sufficient experience to know when to begin removing the solution, as this process depends on certain conditions work, including weather.
Grouting order
To ensure adhesion of the mortar to the masonry, it is necessary to completely clean the surface of the masonry, removing all contaminants, including previously applied waterproofing coatings and sealants that may interfere with adhesion. Before application, you need to fill all damaged seams with the solution.
The application solution is supplied as a dry mixture with acrylic or organic binding agents. Dry substances are mixed with clean water in certain proportions, depending on existing conditions.
The liquid mortar is applied in a circular motion to the entire surface of the wall, which must be constantly and uniformly damp to prevent the mortar from hardening before removal. The grout should be applied evenly and fill all voids, pores and cracks.
At a certain time, depending on the operating conditions, the removal of the solution begins. This is done using hard hair brushes, linen bags or other effective methods. After proper removal, there should be no solution remaining on the wall surface, discoloration or streaking.
No primer is required, although surfaces must remain damp. Do not apply materials to weak or defective substrates or seams. The ambient temperature must remain above freezing throughout the entire process.
Seam alignment
Aligning seams involves applying liquid cement mortar on all surfaces of existing masonry joints. At the same time, all masonry elements are hidden and masked (for example, covered with film). This protects them from the filling getting onto the surface of the masonry elements. The same materials and surface preparation methods are used as for grouting, only the application method differs.
The cement grouting material is applied to the surface of the joint using a brush; it should fill all cavities and cracks without getting on the cladding. During the leveling process, the buried joints are completely filled.
This method effectively unstitches seams without requiring them to be cut out. However, as with all other seam repair systems, old mortar Severely damaged joints should be removed and properly filled with repair compound before alignment.
Alignment order
If there are seams with a small recess (3 mm or less), the masonry elements are covered, and the liquid mortar is applied so as to fill all the seams flush with the facade. The materials that cover the masonry are removed before the mortar is completely dry so that the nicks can be removed before final setting without damaging the integrity of the waterproofing.
This system is not intended to replace the procedure for opening severely damaged seams. As with other methods, material tests should be carried out on several sections of the wall to analyze the effectiveness of the system under specific operating conditions.
Materials should be mixed in accordance with the manufacturer's recommendations. Materials are applied to cracks and voids using a brush or trowel to completely fill the grooves of the seams.
No primer is required, although all joints must be kept damp during application. Materials should not be applied to frozen surfaces or at freezing temperatures.
After surgical intervention a scar remains on the body - a patch of connective tissue. Existing methods There are many different ways to get rid of unsightly marks on the skin. Therefore, the question of how to remove a scar after surgery should be preceded a short excursion into the typology of scars. The reasons for differences in the effectiveness of the same products are due to different characteristics postoperative skin damage.
How are different types of scars treated?
Many methods are available to specialists in medical and cosmetic clinics. To choose a method for removing scars after surgery, you first need information about the type of damage. It is necessary to diagnose the condition of the patient’s skin and the whole body.
Features of scar correction
| Types of scars | What they look like | How to remove a scar after surgery |
|---|---|---|
| Physiological (normotrophic) | It is located at or slightly below the rest of the skin. | -Sometimes it becomes invisible without treatment. -Silicone film or plate. -Light massage after healing of the incision with oils and creams. -Superficial peeling with fruit acids. |
| Pulled into the skin. | -Start treatment as early as possible. -Chemical peeling. -Use of dermal fillers. -It is not recommended to operate. |
|
| Dense to the touch, rises above the skin. | -Silicone plates. -Ointments with enzymes, hormones. -Microdermabrasion. -Laser resurfacing. -Surgical treatment (surgical excision, plastic surgery). |
|
| Significantly rises above other areas of the skin. Causes itching, burning, pain. | -Difficult to correct. -Electrophoresis with hydrocortisone, lidase. -Injections of steroids into the scar area. - with enzymes, hormones. -Surgical methods can stimulate enlargement and relapses. |
How to remove scars on the stomach?
Minimally invasive surgery has almost disappeared side effects surgical interventions in the form of long and wide scars. With a gentle technique, almost no traces of punctures remain. If scars after laparoscopy are properly cared for from the very beginning, the cosmetic effect will be excellent. Much depends on where the punctures are made. Typically, during laparoscopy, the doctor makes 3-4 small holes (about 1 cm or less):
- 1 - below the navel for introducing a mini-video camera into the abdominal cavity.
- 2–4 - in the lower abdomen for introducing microsurgical instruments.
Caring for punctures after laparoscopy is carried out in two stages and includes measures aimed at preventing the formation of scars:
- Applications with a substance that stimulates healing (Curiosin gel).
- Lubrication with a drug that softens scar tissue (Kontraktubeks gel).
Removing a scar on the abdomen after surgery
| Correction methods | What actions are performed | What is the expected effect | How many procedures are recommended? |
|---|---|---|---|
| Surgical excision | Removal, application of cosmetic suture. | Elimination of scar and deformation. | 1 |
| Chemical peels | Treatments with solutions of AHA acids. | Scar surface smoothing, whitening, exfoliation. | 1–8 |
| Microdermabrasion | Treatment of the scar with aluminum oxide powder, grinding the surface. | Elimination of small scars. | 1–10 |
| Laser resurfacing | Reduction of scars. | ||
| Physiotherapeutic treatment | Various procedures | Softening scars. | 5–15 |
| Hormone therapy | Administration of glucocorticoids to the keloid. | Reduction of scars. | |
| Silicone pads and others | Use simultaneously with drugs for resorption of scars after surgery. | The scars become soft, flat, and elastic. | |
| Application of ointments | Applying to problem areas. | Flattening and normalization of scar color. |
Video about keloid scars after surgery
Cicatrix cream from the Spanish company Catalysis (test results)
The benefits of medications for local application- a small number of contraindications compared to peelings, laser resurfacing, and surgical removal of scars.
Visible results from using the Cicatrix restorative cream from the Spanish company Catalysis appear after 3 weeks (on fresh scars). In 2007–2010, medical centers in Western Europe and Russia assessed the effectiveness of Cicatrix cream in a group of patients with fresh scars. Here are the results of the study published by the Testing Laboratory Center of the Central Clinical Hospital of the Russian Academy of Sciences.
Data from the testing laboratory of special dermatological products of the Central Clinical Hospital of the Russian Academy of Sciences
The researchers explained the positive results of using Cicatrix cream by the synergistic effect of the interaction of the components:
- Asiatic and madecassonic acids in the Asian centella extract stimulate the activity of fibroblasts and improve microcirculation.
- Pine extract (Pinus sylvestris) has antioxidant properties far superior to vitamins E and C. Prevents collagen destruction.
- A unique lipid complex of ceramides and low molecular weight hyaluronic acid retain moisture.
According to the results of a study of Cicatrix cream, 84% of patients noted an acceleration of the regeneration process after surgical damage to the skin.
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Show something different from the tables on the blog, otherwise I haven’t been there for a long time.
Children's themes have recently captivated me in a way that is not childish. They asked me to make various items for the kindergarten.
The first subject is educational, necessary and useful. This is a traffic light, children will use it to learn the rules of the road, an extremely important thing.
Let me make a reservation right away: they also made a pedestrian version with people, but a simpler one made from cardboard.
In principle, they asked me to make this three eyes into a simple cardboard one, but can I really do it without any problems)) I thought about making a reliable educational object right away, and I did it. How long is enough?
The concept of the figure is that it is large enough for everyone to see, stable, durable and with rotating mechanism, the point is that there are 4 sides, one side shows all the signals for a general understanding of the device.
The other three sides are given one signal, the teacher can turn and show any color out of 3 and ask the children about its purpose.
In general, it seemed to me that it would be right
Initial thoughts about color circles on magnets and other light bulbs had to be canceled; we need a simple, understandable solution that is difficult to break; magnetic circles can get lost, light bulbs and batteries can fail.
I don’t know whether the idea succeeded, but time will tell.
The entire base is MDF, which was glued together with PVA; for temporary tack, I also fastened it with a micropin.
Separately, I would like to note that you can use a circular saw to make circles of different diameters and, most importantly, the same size, using a simple device, first we cut square blanks, and then on the device, rotating the part, we cut off the corners to a polyhedron, and then rotating the part we finish it to a circle.
I glued the box together, the visors are halves of the eyes of the circles, I made a groove under them with a router, so such things cannot be securely glued into the end.
The whole thing rotates on a pipe from the joker system, in my opinion, for shelving, so that the stops do not fall out and fall through, which were fixed by bugs.
The base was made massive and wide from thick layers of MDF; with such a base, the traffic light is not so easy to tip over on its side.
I played the fool and drilled right through the pipe, so I had to put a plate on the return side.
I spray painted everything, then varnished it, the thing is ready.
I didn’t paint the signal circles; they were cut out of self-adhesive paper, so it’s easier to update the display item.
Who finished reading, look at the slides
Dear gentlemen builders. I would like to know the detailed process of CORRECTLY leveling walls (reinforced concrete), with a composition such as Knauf... I’m a novice in this matter, but I want to make my daughter’s bedroom beautiful, but I don’t have a lot of money to pay professionals for the work, and there’s no guarantee that I’ll get caught good pros... So I want to know what, how, and how much is worth a pound. Thanks in advance for your advice. The walls will be leveled for further painting with Sherwin Williams paint.
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What should I do if I don’t know how to install bathtubs? There are 2 options - ask how, or come up with your own. I chose the second one. And I not only liked this option, but really liked it!
GO!
An acrylic or iron bathtub requires a frame. I have a thin-walled iron one. I wanted plastic, and a specific one, but I didn’t have time. When I thought about this frame, I felt so sick! Sales designs are somehow crummy and material-intensive. I limited myself to one 20x40 pipe under the edge and two levers.
Hello, brothers in repair! I haven’t written anything here for a long time, and in general I started to come in rarely, it’s all somehow too much time: either drinking, or partying, and now a new “attack” has attacked me. But knowing that, despite everything, you stubbornly do not forget me, I decided not to be a pig and tell you about my new hobby. I’ll start from afar: I have worked almost my entire adult life as an electronics engineer, moreover, as an engineer-developer of electronic and electrical devices of the widest class and purpose, and at the same time purely in the defense industry. It is clear that the scope of my amateur radio interests was limited only by my laziness, there were simply no restrictions on radio components for me, I had EVERYTHING! Well, following the trends of the amateur radio fashion of that time, my main focus was on radio receivers and amplifiers, of course, on transistors and microcircuits. I haven’t worked in this field for a long time, and I threw everything into the landfill a long time ago, but all this time I had a dream in my soul - to make a tube power amplifier, and not a simple one, but one that would make everyone gasp. But I must say that at work I spent most of my time dealing with electric vacuum devices, radio tubes, to put it simply, so this topic was very familiar to me. And then there’s this fashion for “warm tube sound”, which people are literally going crazy about. In short, a year ago I decided to make my dream come true. I immediately decided: the mainstream, ordinary tube amplifiers with an output transformer, are not interesting to me, this is not a royal matter! Shouldn't I invent a TRANSFORMER-LESS tube amplifier? Well, I well imagined the difficulties along this path, and I had some of my own thoughts on this matter, but still I decided to consult with the radio amateurs. I found a suitable group on Facebook, started publishing in it myself, and once asked a question on the topic: could anyone tell me the circuit of such an amplifier. And they immediately give me a link: http://hifisound.com.ua...a-6s33s-otl/ (I hope I haven’t violated any Forum rules by providing a direct link here, especially since it’s from a completely different area? ). I won’t talk about this scheme, if anyone is interested, I can later explain what’s what, I’ll just say that this scheme immediately interested me, both for its unusualness and for the potential opportunities that I saw in it. I decided to start. And where to start: there are 0 parts, there is a soldering iron, also a Soviet one, and a tester from Ketai. But, bad luck - the beginning: I got comfortable on Avito, on Ali Express, went to the Mitinsky radio market a couple of times, and began to acquire amateur radio junk. ..
Now I’ll go and take Tinka for a walk, and I’ll continue, if you’re interested, with photos...)))
After completing the tiling work in the bathroom, the tile joints must be grouted. This is the final stage, which allows you to give the finished surface a finished look. A correctly performed procedure will hide all defects and irregularities, but an inappropriate approach to this process can only worsen the situation.
Where to begin?
The grout selection process plays an important role. Experienced craftsmen work equally well with any material, but doing such work with your own hands will be more difficult.
In particular, some types of mastics dry out faster and are more difficult to remove. It is difficult to advise what is best to choose from these materials. The main task here is the correct organization of the entire process, but more on that later.
Types of material
Today there are two types of grout mixture:
- On cement based. It is presented in the form of a dry mixture, which must be diluted with liquid latex, but can also be diluted with ordinary water. There are also ready-made solutions, but they are more expensive.
- Epoxy based grout. It is used in retail and industrial premises. It is more difficult to work with due to its viscous consistency.
You can choose any type of mixture for your home, but before grouting the tiles, purchase the required amount of material. Mixture consumption per square meter A sales assistant working in the store will help you calculate. Or you can read the recommendations on the packaging yourself.
Today, manufacturers offer putties of various colors. You can choose it to match the tone of your tile, as is usually done, or, conversely, its bright opposite. Material consumption does not change depending on color.
Stages of work
Jointing or grouting
The entire grouting process is carried out in several stages:
- Calculation of mixture consumption.
- Preparation of material. After the first mixing of the solution, you need to wait a certain time and mix it again to give the mixture the required consistency.
- Distribution of mortar along the seams.
- Removing excess material.
Necessary tool
To do all the work inside and out with your own hands, you need to take care of the availability of tools. To work you will need:
- Rubber gloves.
- Protective glasses.
- Roller and scraper.
- Small capacity.
- Rubber spatula.
- Wooden sharpened stick for cutting seams.
- A small brush, preferably a paint brush.
Grouting joints ceramic tiles carried out after preparing all the tools, mixture and workplace. In particular, it is better to remove all debris from the seams and sweep it out with a brush. If this is not done, the mixture may subsequently simply fall out of the seam.
Let's get to work - applying grout
First stage of work
You can place a small amount of the mixture directly on the floor surface and immediately distribute it along the seams. Or you can use a regular metal spatula, which you need to take a certain amount of the mixture from the container. Then take small portions from it with a rubber spatula and rub the mixture into the seams.
There is no need to use a metal spatula to apply grout to the tiles, so as not to scratch its surface. It is only necessary to take the grout mass and clean the rubber spatula from grout residues.
The spatula with grout should be held at an angle of 30 degrees relative to the floor surface. Uniform distribution and pressing of the grout into the joints is carried out by diagonal movements of the hand with a spatula. In some places the seams may be deeper. In this case, it is better to perform such manipulations several times, but the consumption of the mixture will increase significantly. You can save grout if you pre-treat the seams with remaining glue.
When applying grout to the tiles of the floor or walls in the bathroom, you need to apply a little pressure on the spatula so that the mixture fits more tightly into the joint.
When you do something with your own hands, you want to finish the work faster, but in this case you can’t rush. It is better to start grouting from a test area and first treat 1m2. This is necessary to check the setting time of the mixture. When working with a small area, it will be easier to clean dried material that has not yet had time to set.
Dry cleaning of seams
When you have filled all the seams, you will need to remove excess mixture and clean the surface. To do this, use a grater and a rubber spatula. Move the tool along the seam, keeping it at a right angle.
It is necessary to clean the entire surface to prepare it for the second stage of work. Remember to stir the grout from time to time to prevent it from thickening.
Wet cleaning
Wet cleaning of tiles with a sponge
When using the dry surface cleaning method, a significant part of the dried grout is removed. But in any case, you will need to additionally remove excess material with a damp cloth or sponge.
In practice, some craftsmen use various options such cleaning, and some of them may even seem absurd. For example, the use of sawdust. They are poured along all the seams on the bathroom floor. Supposedly they will absorb excess moisture from the material.
It is better not to resort to such methods. They can weaken the consistency of the grout, which will cause the joints to fail. Eventually you will have to clean them again, buy new material, and this is an additional cost of money and time.
To clean tile joints wet method, you will need pure water and a sponge. Pre-moisten it and begin to wipe the surface of the tile in a circular motion. In this case, particles of the solution will remain in the pores, and to prevent them from scratching the gloss of the tile, the sponge must be washed frequently.
Seam alignment
After wet cleaning, inspect the treated areas for unevenness. If there are any, then they need to be leveled to give the surface a finished look. It is better to do it yourself and immediately after wet cleaning. If you leave everything as is, then over time the seams between the floor tiles may become cracked, and you will have to do everything all over again. And this again is a waste of money and time.
First, smooth and level the seams with wood jointing. Then use a damp sponge to smooth out the chipped areas. Afterwards, wearing rubber gloves (preferably choose medical ones), take a small part of the putty with your finger and carefully fill the seam.
These manipulations must be done in all places where the grout is uneven. First you need to remove its remains, then clean the seam and fill the recesses with a thin layer of grout. When leveling, it is very important to choose the optimal depth and width of the joint so that it looks the same on the entire surface of the tile in the bathroom. If necessary, treat the seams with a spatula.
Final cleaning
Chord cleaning of tiles
Any work done with your own hands requires a careful approach and logical conclusion. Once the mixture in the joints is completely dry, take a damp sponge and run along the seam from top to bottom, moving your hand as smoothly as possible. Then turn the sponge over to the clean side and go over that seam again to get it perfectly even. It is necessary to select such a force of pressure so as not to push through the solution. Thus, you need to clean all visible uneven joints between the tiles.
Sometimes grout is difficult to clean from floor seams tiles or from the bathroom walls. The reason is usually the strong setting of the grout due to an excess of acrylic or latex additives in it. Here you will have to use a spatula. Be careful not to scratch the tile surface. If this is your first time doing this kind of work with your own hands, then it is better to choose cement grout. It is easier to clean after drying.
If you decide to choose specialized solutions for cleaning the coating, then remember that the grout must set completely. Only after this can you begin working with such compositions.
Conclusion
Grouting ceramic tiles is a tedious process that requires care and patience. You also need to choose high-quality material for the work. However, if you started it with your own hands, then there is no need to stop. And the result of your efforts will be your real reward. Smooth seams on floor tiles or bathroom walls will give a finished look to the surface, making it more attractive.
Publications on the topic