What is the best way to insulate a wall? Proper insulation of the walls of the house from the outside with your own hands

If you have even the slightest opportunity to insulate the walls from the outside - do it. This is the best option, because wall insulation from the inside is headache. There are only two correct and more or less acceptable options, and then, one takes up a lot of space, and the second requires significant costs during the winter. There is another way suitable for warming balconies and loggias. And for now, that's all. All other options with mounting foam, liquid ceramic thermal insulation, penofol and other materials bring only dampness and mold.

Wall insulation from the inside: what's the problem

Everyone who insulated the outer walls of a house or apartment from the inside - from the room - is faced with the problem of the appearance of fungi, mold and high humidity. These consequences are natural, and appear regardless of the type of insulation used. You can get rid of moisture and fungi only by removing the internal insulation by making overhaul walls, treating them with antifungal compounds and plastering.

Let's look at the reasons. The so-called dew point is to blame. This is the line where warm and cold air meet, and where, as a result, condensation forms.

The figure on the left shows the situation with the dew point if the wall is not insulated. It is located somewhere in the thickness of the wall, depending on temperature and humidity, it shifts either one way or the other, but it is always far enough from the inner surface. In this case, moisture accumulates in the wall, freezes. In the spring, as it thaws, it evaporates, and evaporates into the atmosphere. In the room, if dampness is observed, then for a short time and at the level of sensations.

In the center, the photo shows a situation where the wall is insulated from the inside. In this case, condensate falls in the insulation, or, if this is not possible (expanded polystyrene is used, for example), at the border of the insulation and the wall. Even if the wall freezes and the condensate turns into ice, it will melt in the spring, the insulation, wall material and finish will get wet. Since there is a large distance to the outer surface facing the street, moisture dries in this case very badly, which “climbs out” in the form of dampness, mold and all the accompanying delights.

And the third option is to insulate the wall from the outside. In this case, the dew point is in the insulation. How to get it out of there is another story (making a ventilated facade or choosing the right vapor permeability of materials), but for our topic it is important to understand that in this case the wall inside the room will definitely be dry and warm.

Summing up, we can say, if possible, make insulation from the outside. Wall insulation from the inside of the premises has to be done only in a few cases:

• if they are not allowed to be insulated from the outside (the building is a historical monument or a ban by local authorities);
• if the wall goes into a joint between two buildings;
• the wall opens into an elevator shaft.

But before you start this work, inspect the floor, ceiling, windows well. Sometimes most of the heat does not escape through the walls, but through these surfaces, and it is easier to insulate them (in the sense, there is less trouble with the dew point).

Proper internal wall insulation in a house or apartment

There are only two ways to insulate the walls in the rooms from the inside and not get a problem in the form of dampness:

• recreating a multi-layer wall (place a half-brick wall with insulation at some distance);
• make the wall heated, and then insulate it.

These options work, but as you can see, they "eat up" a significant amount of space and cost decent money. In each case, it is necessary to consider what kind of insulation and how much is needed, but the wall cake remains the same.

Second wall

At some distance from the main wall, a second wall is installed with a thickness of 10-12 cm. Between the two walls, a layer of insulation is attached to the inner one, which is required for these conditions. At the same time, up to outer wall there should be a ventilation gap of at least 3 cm. In total, this entire structure will be 20-25 cm away from the main wall. It will “eat” a very considerable area.

As you can see, in this case, the dew point can be located inside the insulation or on the inner surface of the wall facing the street. To be able to remove the formed moisture, you can make forced ventilation by installing one or two exhaust fans.

Since in this case the insulation will get wet, it is necessary to choose one that is not afraid of moisture. These are polyurethane foam, expanded polystyrene, foamed glass. You can use some types of stone wool, but only those that are not afraid of moisture (there are some).

It is necessary to fix the heat-insulating material simultaneously with the construction of the walls. They laid it out to a certain height, fixed the thermal insulation. It is inconvenient to work, but there is no other way out.

Heating with electricity

The idea of ​​​​this method is that with internal insulation of concrete or brick wall move the dew point inside the wall. To do this, it must be heated. The easiest way is to attach an electric floor heating mat. At some distance from it, a heater is installed, on top of which there is a finishing layer.

In this case, there are no problems with the removal of moisture, and much less space is required for the installation of the system: from 8 cm (with a ventilation gap of 3 cm and a heater thickness of 5 cm).

With this method, the heat-insulating material can be any. To install it, first a crate is made, then a counter-crate, and a suitable insulation is already attached to it.

Option for warming the balcony from the inside

In the case of a loggia and a balcony, the situation is often quite different. If the authorities do not allow a wall to be installed, they demand that the existing reinforced concrete screen be left, it is cut off from the warm air with careful thermal insulation made of extruded polystyrene foam (EPS).

In this case, it is better to make the insulation redundant than at least slightly insufficient. The total thickness is divided into two layers. They are laid without a gap (preferably with locks), and so that the seams of the first layer overlap the sheet of the second. There should be no through access of warm air to the screen.

Very carefully it is necessary to approach the issue of warming the floor and ceiling of the loggia / balcony, to ensure tightness at their junction with the walls. Also pay attention to how the glazing will be installed: there may also be problem areas: the joint with the screen, walls, the insulation of the part above the frames. All of them must be well finished, excluding the possibility of contact between warm / cold air. In this case, there will be no problems. Even .

Most of the constructed panel and brick houses did not provide for the insulation of facades. Concrete and brick have high density and low thermal insulation properties. The result is cold walls and uncomfortable temperatures. There are several ways to insulate from the inside, the main thing is to avoid the appearance of dampness.

Dew point - physics of the phenomenon

A cold wall is not the only drawback of panel or brick houses. Often dampness and accompanying fungus and mold appear on it. The best way struggle - wall insulation from the outside (this is also a requirement of SNiP), but this is not always possible. Therefore, you have to fight the cold wall, insulating it from the inside. But there are pitfalls here.

Even if the cold wall was previously dry, then when it is insulated from the inside, dampness may appear. And the so-called dew point will be to blame.

The dew point is a conditional boundary at which the temperature of water vapor becomes equal to the temperature of condensate formation. It manifests itself, naturally, in the cold season. With proper design of the house (taking into account the characteristics of the region), it is approximately in the middle of the thickness of the facade of a material of uniform density.

If insulation is carried out from the outside, then the dew point shifts in the direction of decreasing density (that is, to the outer surface of the wall). When insulating from the inside, it moves inward, and condensate may appear on the surface of the main wall or inside the insulation.

And in order to assess the scale of possible damage, it is enough to say that as a result of the life of one person, about 4 liters of water evaporate per day (cooking, wet cleaning, personal hygiene, washing, etc.).

Features of cold wall insulation from the inside

There are several ways to prevent condensation on a wall insulated from the inside:

1. Create a layer from warm insulating material with a vapor permeability lower than that of the facade material.
2. Warming with materials with minimal water absorption.
3. Application of ventilated facade technology (taking into account internal placement).

Liquid thermal insulation

polyurethane foam

PPU insulation meets all requirements for vapor barrier, water absorption and the absence of seams. Therefore, even if there is a dew point inside the layer, it will remain “conditional”, since there is no condensation in vapor-tight materials. It turns out from the side of the room a completely sealed heat-insulating layer.

The environmental friendliness of PPU after curing meets the requirements for residential premises. Harmful fumes are present only when the components are mixed during the spraying process - after polymerization, the structure of the material remains stable.

Thermal insulation is applied between the crate and sewn up with moisture-resistant sheet materials(GKL, OSB or plywood). In fact, it is like a large prefabricated sandwich panel.

The disadvantage of this method is the use of special equipment.

liquid ceramics

This is a relatively young heat-insulating material, the action of which is based on the use of two principles - the creation of a thin layer with high resistance to heat transfer and the reflection of heat towards the radiation source.

Of course, a thin heat-insulating layer cannot provide good thermal insulation - this is an auxiliary, but a mandatory factor. Although it gives a fairly high effect - the wall becomes much "warmer" to the touch.

The main task of reducing heat loss is performed by microscopic ceramic spheres that reflect infrared radiation.

According to the manufacturers, the effect of a 1.5 mm layer can be compared with thermal insulation with 5 cm thick foam plastic or 6.5 cm mineral wool.

Application method is the same as for acrylic paint(basic is the same). After polymerization, a dense and durable film is formed on the surface, and latex additives improve the waterproofing properties.

Roll thermal insulation

Penofol

Penofol is a combination of polyethylene foam with aluminum foil. This is a whole series of materials (including single-sided, double-sided, laminated, with an adhesive layer). Moreover, it can be used both in combination with other heat-insulating materials, and independently. By the way, penofol is popular for warming the bath from the inside, and there is much more steam there than in an ordinary residential area.

To insulate a cold wall, foam foam is used with one layer of foil (one-sided) and up to 5 mm thick.

In the case, as with liquid ceramics, the effect is achieved due to the low thermal conductivity of foamed polyethylene, as well as its low vapor permeability and high reflective properties of the foil (up to 97%).

But unlike seamless coatings, complete sealing and prevention of cold bridges cannot be achieved. Consequently, condensation may form on the surface of the foil. Even the obligatory sealing of joints with adhesive aluminum foil will still leave gaps inside between adjacent sheets.

The method of combating the formation of condensate on the foil is traditional - a crate with a ventilated gap between the foam and the outer lining.

polyph

Another version of polyethylene foam, but already made in the form of a kind of wallpaper - there is a layer of paper on both sides. Polyfoam and is designed for gluing wallpaper on it.

Of course, its thermal insulation properties are not as high as those of penofol, but to make a cold wall feel warmer to the touch, they are quite enough.

In most cases, the insignificant thickness of the insulation does not lead to the dew point moving to the inner surface.

The disadvantage of this method is that only a dry wall is insulated.

Insulation with expanded polystyrene

Expanded polystyrene (or extruded polystyrene foam) is glued to a prepared and leveled wall. Both materials have very low water absorption (especially extruded polystyrene foam), so the formation of condensate in the insulation layer is excluded. The main danger is its appearance on the surface of the insulated wall.

Therefore, it is best to glue sheets on special hydrophobic adhesive mixtures applied over the entire surface of the sheets. And to prevent the penetration of water vapor from the side of the room, treat the seams with sealant (you can also use foam plastic with a step or a tenon-groove connection).

Finishing can be done in two ways:

• mesh reinforcement and plastering;
• sheathing with panels on a supporting frame fixed to the floor, ceiling and adjoining walls (false plasterboard wall).

Warming with mineral wool

Mineral wool does not meet the requirements for vapor permeability and water absorption for insulation from the inside. But it can be used.

The main thing is to provide maximum protection from moist air from the side of the room and the weathering of water vapor from the insulation layer. That is, to make a ventilated facade, but in the reverse order: wall, gap, vapor-permeable membrane, mineral wool, vapor barrier film, decorative cladding indoors.

It is necessary to create a false wall at a distance of 2-3 cm from the main wall. And to weather the water vapor from below and above, make ventilation holes.

Wall insulation from the inside: how and with what

If you look at the picture from the thermal imager, it becomes clear that the lion's share of heat loss from heated rooms occurs through the outer walls. Required level resistance to heat transfer is obtained using heaters, which, at the stage of building a house, are mounted inside multilayer building envelopes - between the frame racks, on the facade, in the form of layered masonry, etc.

Many of our compatriots happened to live in buildings built in the era cheap heating and low energy efficiency standards. This applies to both apartment buildings and houses in the private sector. In both cases, it is necessary to deal with additional thermal insulation, but this can not always be done from the “correct” street side. In private houses, there are difficulties with the insulation of basements and recessed "basement" floors. Behind the cold wall of the apartment there may be a staircase, a shaft, a temperature gap ... or the authorities simply may not allow facades to be insulated.

Why should you avoid insulating walls from the inside?

All written and unwritten rules state that in the outer walls, the "warmer" layers should be located closer to the street, and the "colder" layers closer to the room. Additional thermal insulation of the walls from the side of the rooms is not recommended, but ... is acceptable. The Code of Rules "Design of thermal protection of buildings" (SP 23-101-2004) says the following:

“It is not recommended to apply thermal insulation from the inside due to the possible accumulation of moisture in the thermal insulation layer, however, if such an application is necessary, the surface from the side of the room must have a continuous and durable vapor barrier layer.” Note: Solid and durable vapor barrier!

Indirect prohibiting factors are called: the loss of usable area, the laboriousness and high cost of this enterprise. but the main problem internal insulation lies in the subsequent incorrect operation of enclosing structures.

After installing insulating materials on the inside of the wall, we artificially move the line of demarcation between the cold outside and the energy generated by the heating system. Under such conditions, in winter, our insulation becomes a barrier to warm air, so the rest of the wall freezes quite quickly.

If the air is saturated to a certain level with water vapor, then dripping moisture in the form of condensate may appear on cold surfaces. It is this effect that we can observe when bad PVC windows “cry”. Condensation is possible provided that the temperature of the problem surface corresponds to the air temperature in the room and the specific relative humidity. This dependence (as well as the process itself) is called the term "DEW POINT".

In the current Codes of Rules for the design of thermal insulation of houses, tables with exact numbers are displayed.

In our case, the cold surface is very close to the room. The dew point zone during the implementation of internal insulation usually falls directly between bearing wall and a heater. Therefore, very often, under the heat-insulating layer, the wall begins to get wet, as a result of which the structures are gradually destroyed; the heater, having been saturated with water, stops working; mold develops in the nutrient medium, fungi grow. The only option to avoid this would be maximum vapor barrier to keep moisture out of the chilled wall.

In the Manual (PZ-2000) to SNiP 3.03.01-87 "Design and installation of thermal insulation of enclosing structures of residential buildings" there is paragraph 7.2.2, which says:

“Insulation systems should be installed from the outer (cold) surface of the wall. Internal insulation of external walls is allowed to be carried out in separate apartments multi-storey buildings, to the safety of the facades of which there are special requirements of authorities government controlled architecture and urban development. At the same time, constructive measures should be developed to prevent condensation at the junction of the insulating layers and the wall material, at the intersections of the insulating layer with floor slabs and internal transverse walls, as well as at the edges of openings, which should be confirmed by the calculation of temperature fields.

This quote is of particular interest because the developers pay attention to the need to protect not only the plane itself from moisture, but also the edges of the insulation, joints, junctions ...

Which method of thermal insulation to choose and which insulation to buy

Additional thermal insulation from the side of the premises can be performed in two ways:

• As on the facade, the method of bonded thermal insulation is sometimes used, when a dense insulation is glued to the base, drilled to the wall with dish-shaped dowels, then a reinforcing mesh is applied to the surface and everything is covered with a finishing protective and decorative layer on top (this should be a vapor-tight layer - polymer plaster, tiles, etc.).
• A wall frame is assembled next to the enclosing structure. Heaters are laid in the cavity of the resulting false wall.

The second option is more popular, because, despite the greater thickness of the finished cake, we get a wall that is more resistant to mechanical damage, we can use any finish, including painting with interior paints or wallpapering. Using insulation inside the wall frame, there is no need to rest on the highest density of heat-insulating materials, however, in any case, it should be PLATES (for example, ISOROC P-75). You can only work with materials that have been designed to operate in a vertical position without direct load on them. That is, roll models mineral wool should be excluded immediately.

Basalt wool and fiberglass insulation are comfortable due to their resilience and elasticity. They are easily adjusted to size, hold well in place when fastened between racks by surprise. But since the insulation of walls from the inside is associated with the possibility of moistening the array due to condensate, then fibrous cotton materials will not be here. the best option. They have the ability to absorb water, which is why, after getting wet, they become heat-conducting. Against this background, more preferable are: polystyrene and EPPS (Penoplex-comfort).

The heat-insulating layer on the side of the room is exactly the place where the usual lack of slab polystyrenes turns into a plus for the user. EPPS, perhaps, is out of competition here.

• Firstly, extruded polystyrene foam has almost zero water absorption due to the closed pore structure.
• Secondly, XPS is a vapor-tight material. It by itself will not allow moisture to pass to the area where the "dew point" is located.
• Thirdly, XPS boards with a thickness of more than 30 mm can usually be purchased with a stepped edge, which helps to better seal the seams in the thermal insulation.
• Fourthly, extruded polystyrene foam shows some of the best numbers in terms of thermal conductivity among other heaters.

Another option that is especially worth considering is sprayed types of thermal insulation. Pressurized polyurethane foams create an insulating layer without seams, they fill irregularities well, are tightly fastened to the base and to adjacent structures, and seal (by themselves) adjunctions. If the sprayed insulation is not further damaged, then its pores will remain closed, and it will not let water vapor through, it will not be saturated with moisture.

The procedure for insulating walls from the inside

Foundation preparation

The load-bearing wall must be cleaned before starting work. After that, all possible cracks and through holes should be repaired. When insulating from the side of the room, it is recommended to treat the base with antifungal agents. For a house made of wood, the Nortex-Lux composition is well suited. With the same name, there is an antiseptic agent designed to treat concrete and stone walls of a different type.

Hanging the wall

Before starting the installation of the frame, it is necessary to determine possible irregularities on the bearing wall. Inside the room, this can be done using a long rule 2.5-3 meters long, into which bubble levels. If the wall is too long, then the drops are easy to find by pulling on the control cords. The cord is pulled along the examined base near the floor, near the ceiling and diagonally.

When identifying localized "protruding" zones, the indentation of the frame must be taken from them. In some cases, if the defect in the base is small, it is easier to knock it down than to go too far into the room with a false wall.

Mounting brackets

When insulating from the side of the room, the frames are assembled from galvanized "ceiling" profiles. IN wooden house it can be dry edged bars with a section of 50x50 mm, which have undergone thorough antiseptic treatment. In both cases, perforated "straight suspension" brackets are used.

To install the brackets on the wall, you must first mark their location. Since the profiles will be spaced at intervals of 400 or 600 mm (a multiple of the width of the drywall boards), it is with such distances that the rows of fasteners along the axes will be located. In each vertical row, the distance between the U-shaped brackets should be about 600-750 mm.

Fixing direct suspensions on the wall is carried out by means of dowels "quick mounting" size 6x40 mm (for concrete), 6x60 or 6x80 - for brick. TO wooden wall"pawns" are fastened with stainless steel self-tapping screws with a large flat head with a length of 45 mm or more. There are two hardware for each bracket, they must pass through the side lugs.

Important! Installation of direct suspensions on the wall is recommended to be carried out through a thermally insulating gasket, then it will be possible to interrupt heat transfer through the metal and minimize cold bridges.

Insulation laying

Very often, thermal insulation is mounted after the assembly of the entire frame. That is, mineral wool, polystyrene or EPS is bursting between the racks, but there is no insulation behind the profiles. In this case, it is better to lose an extra 3-5 centimeters, but to reliably insulate the wall with a continuous layer. To do this, the insulation boards are "pricked" on the brackets and take root to the wall.

Obviously, some fixation of the insulating material will be required. For this, it is best to use the adhesive method. Among different types adhesives, polyurethane adhesive in cylinders will be most preferable, but dry mixes that are mixed with water can also be used, designed for the bonded thermal insulation method.

Important! When installing the insulation on the wall, we recommend pressing it as much as possible in order to eliminate the gap through which moist air could circulate. For the same reason, it is better to apply glue on beacons, and with a notched trowel-comb. If glue from a cylinder is used, then it is desirable to make a continuous strip of it in the form of a closed contour along the perimeter of the plates.

The gaps between the foam or XPS boards are best foamed. With foam, it makes sense to close up the cracks near the passage of the brackets, as well as the gaps at the junctions of the insulation to the floor, ceiling and other structures.

Vapor barrier installation

As you remember, our important task is to prevent moisture (in any of its manifestations) from penetrating to the dew point. Therefore, it is necessary to hang a vapor barrier construction sheet over the insulation, it can be either ordinary reinforced polyethylene, or more technologically advanced membranes or foil foamed polyethylene.

Cloths can be pre-fixed with double-sided tape. It does not matter how the strips will be located (vertically or horizontally), but they must be hung out with an overlap relative to each other by at least 100 mm.

Important! The vapor barrier must penetrate adjacent structures so that the insulation layer is reliably protected, including from the ends. The joints of the strips and the junction of the vapor barrier to other structures must be glued with waterproof construction tape.

Installation of frame profiles

Now profiles can be installed on top of the thermal insulation layer. In any case, we need a combination of CD and UD. First, guide profiles UD are fixed in place along the perimeter of the wall with dowels. Then, the extreme wall profiles are set in the brackets and strictly vertically fixed with LN 9 mm self-tapping screws.

When the extreme profiles of the CD are exposed, several control cords are pulled into the target with their front surfaces. These will be lighthouse cords, along which the rest of the subsystem profiles are set in turn.

If the height of the ceilings is greater than the height of the cladding panels, then it will be necessary to assemble jumpers to ensure reliable joining of drywall sheets on the short side. Jumpers are made from scraps of the CD profile, they are fixed in place with "single-level" brackets (these are the so-called "crabs" and the like).

Fixing drywall boards

It would be possible to use here materials such as a blockhouse, imitation of timber or lining. But plate materials are better suited to create tightness. When insulating the walls of a house / apartment from the inside - drywall is highly desirable to buy a moisture-resistant 12.5 mm thick. This is a green plate with GKLV marking

Eps bonding

The slabs are mounted on the frame according to the general rules for gypsum board systems. Fixation takes place with self-tapping screws 25 mm long for metal, with a traditional pitch between the screws and with a traditional offset from the edge of the plate.

Important! After installing all drywall sheets, the gaps between the cladding and other structures must be filled with water-resistant sealants. It can be a material based on silicone or acrylic.

For puttying and finishing special requirements No, here you need to comply only with standard general construction requirements. But if options are available, then it is better to give preference to vapor-permeable materials with better moisture resistance.

What else to pay attention to

It would not be superfluous to say that insulation must be carried out in a complex manner. In our case, when performing work from the side of the premises, it is recommended to insulate (with good vapor barrier) also floors and ceilings, at least in small areas near the problematic wall. If there is a window on the wall, then it is very important to make good thermal insulation of the slopes and the area around the window sill.

Sealing a wall insulated in this way (and there may be several in a room) sometimes causes a sharp increase in air humidity in a dwelling. Therefore, ventilation should be carefully considered. The solution is to install exhaust fan on the outlet channel, in the installation of supply valves on the wall or on the window, maintaining the required gap under the canvases interior doors to ensure normal air flow.

Both builders and manufacturers of insulation materials argue about whether it is possible to insulate houses from the inside, but everyone agrees that in most cases, insulating walls from the inside will not be the best solution - if possible, it is better to do external thermal insulation at home. However, if there is no choice, you should carefully study the features and rules for choosing and installing insulation so that the internal thermal insulation is effective, safe and durable. How to insulate the walls of the house from the inside and how to do it?

Indoors, walls can be insulated only in cases where it is impossible to change the facade of the building or there is no access to the outer surface of the wall. It is recommended to avoid wall insulation from the inside of the house because it has a number of significant drawbacks:

• The dew point moves inward. The wall begins to freeze through its entire thickness, cold meets warm air at the junction of the wall and the insulation, and condensation forms on its surface. It has many negative consequences: a fungus can develop on a wet wall, the effectiveness of the heat-insulating material decreases, it lags behind the wall, collapses; in addition, the decorative finish is spoiled.
• A frozen wall loses its heat storage properties. It becomes difficult to control the temperature of the air in the room - it starts to warm up faster due to the operation of heaters or direct sunlight through the window and cools down faster when airing.

• It is impossible to provide 100% thermal insulation, since it will not be possible to insulate the walls from the inside over their entire surface - cold bridges will remain at the intersection outer wall with internal partitions.
• The humidity in the room increases. This, again, contributes to the formation of mold and is generally unhealthy. To ensure good air exchange, you will have to constantly ventilate the apartment, which will lead to an increase in heating costs.
• The useful area of ​​​​the apartment is decreasing - especially if, due to climatic conditions in the region, it is necessary to install insulation for the walls of the house in a thick layer.
• If thermal insulation work is not carried out before the start of repairs in the room, it is necessary to dismantle the entire decorative trim which complicates the work and makes it more expensive.

by the most dangerous consequence internal thermal insulation becomes condensate inside the room, which leads to accelerated destruction of walls and damage to finishing materials. This can be partially avoided by accurately calculating the required thickness of the insulation layer and choosing the right material. Thus, warming the house from the inside is expensive and unsafe, but sometimes inevitable.

How to avoid condensation

If you still had to deal with internal thermal insulation, then before you figure out how to insulate the house from the inside, you need to understand whether negative consequences can be avoided. The dryness of the walls inside the house can be ensured by protecting the place where the dew point is formed from moisture.

For this you need:

• Use a quality multi-layer waterproofing membrane. Polyethylene film will not work. In addition, it must be properly laid - with an overlap, with sealing of the joints.
• Choose a heater with a minimum vapor permeability. If the material from which the walls of the house are made has this indicator higher, then the moisture formed between the insulation and the surface of the wall will not condense, but will come out.
• Mount the heater close to the wall. To do this, glue must be applied to it in an even continuous layer, and not with beacons.

• Provide forced ventilation of the room, as well as install windows with air exchange valves.
• Accurately calculate the thickness of the insulation layer. It is impossible to focus on average parameters, since it is possible to properly insulate walls only by taking into account all the characteristics of a particular material, premises and climatic features of the region.
• Treat the insulated wall with antifungal and antibacterial agents. You can use a special antiseptic primer. You can start work only after the surface of the wall is completely saturated and dry.

When insulating an apartment from the inside, it is very important to get rid of all possible cold bridges. They are formed at the joints of the insulation boards and in those places where the wall is connected to the ceilings and internal partitions. To improve the effectiveness of insulation, it is necessary to lay the heat-insulating material with a call to the internal walls, floor and ceiling.

The choice of heat-insulating material and the technology of installation of insulation

Mineral wool

It is not recommended to choose this material, since it will not work effectively enough to insulate the wall in the apartment from the inside. However, cotton wool is the easiest to use and cheaper than other options, so it is often resorted to.

Vata exists in two versions:

• rolls;
• basalt slabs.

If there is no other choice, it is better to use wool in the form of plates - this insulation is denser, has better thermal resistance, and does not settle over time. The rolled type of cotton wool has a too high rate of vapor permeability, absorbs moisture well, so that the walls insulated with it will probably get wet. However, there is also a possibility of moisture penetration under the insulation when using plates with a density of 75 kg / m3 or more. You can reduce the risk of condensation by using good vapor barrier material and properly installing thermal insulation.

Insulation from the inside with mineral wool is carried out as follows:

1. At a distance from the wall surface, a frame is constructed from wooden slats or an aluminum profile.
2. The first layer of mineral wool is laid under the frame. It is necessary to glue it to the wall as tightly as possible.
3. Second layer of plates basalt wool is laid between the slats of the frame with the joints offset relative to the first layer.
4. A layer of vapor barrier membrane is laid.
5. Drywall is mounted on the frame.

Due to the characteristics of mineral wool, vapor barriers must be given Special attention when the internal insulation of the walls of the house is carried out. Polyethylene film cannot be used, a more effective vapor barrier multi-layer membrane is needed. TO wooden frame it can be attached with a stapler, be sure to overlap; it is glued to the profile with double-sided tape.

The overlap when laying the membrane should be at least 100 mm, the joints should fall on the frame elements and be glued securely. The vapor barrier must extend to the surfaces adjacent to the wall. Places of contact of the membrane with the surfaces should be additionally sealed. Liquid sealant is applied to a wall, pipe or other structure, then the membrane is pressed against the junction; after the sealant dries, the membrane is fixed with adhesive tape.

High-quality installation will reduce, but not completely eliminate the risk of condensation when using mineral wool. It is better to consider other, polymeric, types of insulation for walls from the inside.

Styrofoam and XPS

Expanded polystyrene, or polystyrene, is much better suited for insulating a wall in an apartment from the inside. This is facilitated by its following characteristics:

• low thermal conductivity due to the presence of air in the cells of the material;
• low vapor permeability and almost no hygroscopicity;
• high strength, including compressive and tensile strength;
• small mass;
• ease of processing with your own hands - you can cut the material with an ordinary knife.

Ordinary or extruded polystyrene foam of sufficient density, even with a relatively small thickness, will provide quite effective thermal insulation of the room. It is recommended to choose it not only because of the ease of installation, but also because it can be most effectively insulated from the inside of the apartment: it does not allow moisture to pass through, so condensation will not appear. The main thing is to correctly glue the foam plates, sealing the joints and ensuring a snug fit to the wall.

When using expanded polystyrene for thermal insulation of residential premises, it is important to take into account some of its disadvantages. So, it practically does not protect against noise. In addition, when burned, it releases toxic compounds into the air. Another disadvantage is the high cost of EPPS, but it is compensated by the fact that it is not necessary to lay a vapor barrier membrane, and you definitely won’t have to redo the thermal insulation due to the destruction of the insulation, as is the case with improper installation of stone wool.

Polystyrene insulation for walls inside the apartment should have a high density - 25–30 kg / m3. You can determine the density by marking, which looks like "PSB-S-25", where 25 means the desired parameter.

Installation of expanded polystyrene boards on inner wall is carried out as follows:

1. The surface of the wall is cleaned, primed and dried.
2. Insulation plates are glued in rows with offset joints. It is advisable to use polyurethane adhesive, which is applied to the entire surface of the expanded polystyrene board.
3. Additionally, the plates are fixed with special plastic dowels.
4. Joints are sealed with silicone sealant, large gaps are filled with mounting foam.
5. Reinforcing fiberglass fabric is overlapped over the insulation. On top of it, you can lay the plaster under the decorative finish. Another option is to immediately glue drywall instead of reinforcement.

There is another installation method. At the long ends of the PPS plates, grooves in the form of corners are selected. Two plates are joined, the seam is sealed. Then it is inserted into the groove wooden plank. The resulting structure is fixed on the wall with self-tapping screws. This method is more convenient, since in this case it is possible to insulate the room faster and more economically. In addition, the boards can be used as a frame for attaching drywall.

Should other options be considered?

There are more modern insulation for walls from the inside - polyurethane foam, heat-insulating plaster, polyethylene foam and even ceramic-based thermal paint. Among them, only the first material is worthy of attention; other options are actually of little use for insulating an apartment from the inside. Polyurethane foam is a regular foam, similar to mounting, which is applied to the surface to be insulated using a special sprayer.

The material is good in that it reliably adheres to any surface, penetrates into all cracks, is monolithic and vapor-tight. It hardens quickly and does not form any cold bridges. However, polyurethane foam is quite expensive, and working with it on your own will not work.

Thus, if it is necessary to insulate the walls from the inside, it is best to use polystyrene foam. This heat insulator has the most suitable characteristics, and it is not difficult to install it yourself. Subject to the insulation technology, it will effectively protect the house from the cold.

It is quite difficult to achieve optimal efficiency in energy saving at home, even with an ultra-modern heating system, but without resorting to insulation of external walls. It has been experimentally established that about 30% heat escapes through uninsulated walls. The best way out of this situation is one - this is the insulation of the walls of the house from the outside. Thus, with the help of special materials with a minimum coefficient of thermal conductivity, the protection of walls from external influences is enhanced. Warming from the outside creates a kind of barrier between the damp and cold atmosphere of the street and the microclimate inside the home. However, the success of this process will directly depend on the right insulation.

Types of materials for wall insulation outside

Most often, houses are insulated from the outside with the following types of materials:

- has a low thermal conductivity. 90% air and 10% polymers. Easy to install and pretty cheap.

Mineral wool- a heat-insulating material that is made from metallurgical slags and silicates. Unlike glass wool, working with it is safe.

- does not require building frame structures. All work is carried out only by professionals, since working with insulation requires certain skills.

- a new formula of wall insulation, which retains heat better and more efficiently. It has a finely porous structure due to extrusion. Possesses high heat-insulating characteristics.

They also use thermal insulation, expanded polystyrene, liquid expanded clay materials, cellulose, etc. for insulation. However, these heaters are not used as often as the above. Therefore, we will focus on the consideration of the main insulation for walls.

Mineral wool

Mineral (basalt, stone) wool is a fibrous structure insulation, which is similar to the natural material basalt. This insulation is made from alloys of volcanic rocks at a very high temperature. Such wool is completely fireproof and is not affected by fire.

Benefits of mineral wool:

Thermal insulation characteristics are very high due to the porous qualities of the fiber. The material perfectly retains heat, and in summer it does not allow heat into the house.

The soundproofing qualities of basalt wool are high, thanks to the chaotic interweaving of basalt fibers, which delays sound waves.

Long service life. Once you have insulated the walls of your house with mineral wool, you can no longer worry about thermal insulation.

High tightness throughout the entire period of operation.

Mineral wool is an absolutely ecological wall insulation that does not pose a danger to either people or environment. Installation of mineral wool on the facade and walls takes place in several stages:

Preparing the walls of the house outside.

Laying a layer of a vapor-permeable membrane over the wall.

Fastening wooden slats or profiles to walls.

Laying heat-insulating mats.

Another layer of film is stretched over the insulation.

The device of the ventilating facade of the house outside.

And at the finishing stage, new slopes, window sills and trim elements are installed due to the increase in wall thickness.

The cost of such a house insulation varies from 100 to 400 rubles per m².

Styrofoam is very often used to insulate walls from the outside. After all, its thermal conductivity is lower than that of mineral wool - 0.032-0.038 W/m*K and are slightly inferior to extruded polystyrene foam.

Such a heater has many advantages:

Excellent sound insulation of walls;

Light weight, which does not increase the load on the building;

Simplicity and ease of installation.

Installation of foam on the walls of the house is as follows:

Facade preparation.

Setting the start profile.

Application adhesive composition for a heater.

Sticking foam boards on the walls of the house.

Fixing sheets with dowel fasteners.

Installation of reinforcement elements.

subsequent reinforcement.

Application of a decorative protective layer on the wall.

Giving texture to the facade.

The cost of such a heater is available - about 50 rubles per m²

This material for insulating the walls of a house from the outside is one of the varieties of plastic. It has a cellular foamy structure and 90% is made up of gaseous matter. The rest of the volume is the walls of the cells.

Sectional polyurethane foam

Thermal insulation and properties of polyurethane foam:

The thermal conductivity of the material lies in the range of 0.018 to 0.035 W / m * K, which is better than that of mineral wool.

Perfectly absorbs noise and delays sounds.

Resistant to aggressive chemicals.

It has low moisture permeability properties.

The service life of polyurethane foam reaches 30 years old. This material is absolutely environmentally friendly.

Insulation of the walls of the house with the help of this heat-insulating material takes place in the following order:

Wall preparation.

Applying a heater.

Reinforcement to improve thermal insulation.

Finishing work.

The cost of polyurethane foam is calculated based on the size of the wall to be insulated. For example, it is necessary to make thermal insulation of the facade up to 50 sq. m. It will cost from 300 rubles per m².

Extruded foam is an innovative development that is designed to save energy.

Advantages of foam insulation:

The lowest thermal conductivity than all of the above materials.

Can withstand heavy loads.

It has a long service life - more than 40 years.

Everything today more owners houses prefer penolex because of its high performance. How is the process of installing insulation.