The door of wooden boards to the barn is simple and reliable. Doors for the hozblok and the barn: what are there and how to choose How to install the doors in the barn yourself

As you may remember, I didn't have enough lumber to finish the barn, and the completion had to be delayed. And finally, after 2 seasons, I started the last stage of construction.
The boards I needed were left from the construction of the house, which I will tell about in another section of the site. It remains to buy two wooden doors with boxes and the necessary hardware inventory: door hinges(left), handles, as well as fire and biological protection for wood with maple and pine colors.

If you remember, I left the barn in such an unfinished form:

I started work, perhaps, from the most difficult moment - the assembly and installation of door frames. I bought solid wood doors, and as a box, each door was accompanied by a set in the form of three bars with cuts made in them under the door leaf. Therefore, I had to take measurements, cut these bars, taking into account the door gaps, and connect them into a box.

Installing the interior door.

I started by installing an inner door leading to the part of the barn that I had prepared for a small workshop.

On the one hand, I fixed the assembled box to a vertical wall beam, on the other hand, to fix the box, I put a vertical stand from the trimming of the forty board, since there were quite a lot of such two-meter trimmings in the manufacture of rafters.

Next, I had to tinker a bit with the installation of the hinges. To do this, first I set the lower gap between the door and the frame with the help of slipped corners - it is convenient to adjust the gap by increasing or decreasing it by hammering or pulling out the corner.

Then, having marked the locations of the upper and lower hinges, using a set of chisels, I chose excess wood (about 2-3 mm) so that when installing the hinge, it would sink a little into the box and door leaf.
Having attached the upper and lower hinges to the door with a couple of screws, I put pieces of wood of suitable size under the door leaf and, fitting the hinges to their places, finally fixed the door in the box.

Installing the outer door.

By the same principle, I installed an external door in the barn. Only in this case, as a second vertical support for the door frame, I used a piece of timber and a piece of a magpie board on top. I also fixed them with steel corners and sewn them diagonally on the side with self-tapping screws.

It was necessary to use a beam 100x100 due to the convenience of fastening the outer boards of the wall, as well as in the future door architraves, under the vertical board of which we leave a gap in the thickness of the board used (about 25 mm).

Important! I remind you that I processed all the boards from the front (outer) side with an electric planer. At the same time, we save impregnation for wood, as well as increase the resistance of wood to adverse external effects of water.

For the convenience of working with a planer, I slightly modernized the goats for sawing firewood, namely: I screwed two planks to the “horns” of the goats with screws. Now it has become convenient to put a whole board on them and pass with a planer.

We sew up the walls with a board.

Well, then everything is as easy as shelling pears - we cut the board to size and sew it into place where it should be.
interior wall, between the woodcutter and the workshop, I sewed up the boards end-to-end, having previously processed them with a planer from all sides, giving Special attention"ribs" to minimize gaps. Of course, they are still formed when the wood dries, well, for aesthetics ...))

So outer wall I had to tinker a little so that the boards did not start to "peck" up or down. I used a level for control, and also took measurements along the sheathed wall through the door for each board from the bottom.

Having finished with the sewing of the outer front wall, I left an area above the door not sewn up for the installation of a small visor there in the future. Below you will see what I mean.

Having finished painting, I began to manufacture and install door trims and a canopy over the door. Well, there is nothing special to explain, everything can be seen in the photo.

On each suburban area or on the territory of a private house there must be a built barn. In it we contain various tools and other inventory or temporarily unnecessary things. Like any building on the site, the barn must have a protective structure. Today, in hardware stores or markets, you can easily purchase and install a ready-made door. But why create additional costs for yourself if you can create such a structure with your own hands from wood. If you do not know how to make a door to the barn from boards with your own hands, then all the information can be viewed on thematic sites or other sources.

Doors to the barn - how to start building?

Any capital building must be equipped with a practical and reliable protective structure. You can quite easily make a door to the barn with your own hands, while using wooden boards as a building material.
To make a wooden door, you will need the following materials:

boards;
slats;
joiner's glue;
plywood;
fasteners;
accessories;
furniture dowels;
nails;
hardboard or foam.

Required tool:

jigsaw;
drill;
hammer.

Before assembling the door from the boards, it is necessary to take measurements of the doorway into which the wooden structure will be installed. You need to determine exactly what size the wooden box and the doors themselves will be. After the measurements are taken, you can begin to prepare the materials. To assemble a wooden shield, it is necessary to carefully select boards without any serious defects - chipped edges, deep cracks, as well as uneven longitudinal sections. If such defects are present, then low-quality wood must be replaced with a more durable material. Selected boards must be cut so that they have the same thickness of 2.5 - 3 centimeters. Using a jigsaw, cut the boards, guided by the previously determined measurements of the doorway.

Do-it-yourself assembly - simple and reliable

To assemble the boards into one structure, it is necessary to use furniture dowels, which will serve as connecting materials. If you are manufacturing standard door 1.6 meters high, then it will be enough to make three holes, and for a more massive structure, four holes must be made. It is important to remember that the holes should be equal to half the dowel, and also correspond to its diameter.

Simple door assembly diagram

Using a drill and a drill that matches the diameter of the dowel, make the desired number of holes. Next, you need to coat the dowel with wood glue, as well as the holes for it. Then insert into the prepared hole and connect the boards together. Connect all other boards in the same way.
You can make a door with your own hands both with dowels and without them. But the masters advise using dowels in the assembly. They will give the design greater reliability and aesthetic appearance. For the manufacture of dowels, you will need not wide rails, the thickness of which does not exceed 10 mm.

The dowels can crash into the door. But such a process will take you a lot of time and effort, since you will need to prepare the appropriate channels for the keys with a hammer and chisel. Therefore, the fastest and The best way install the dowel - nail it onto the assembled wooden shield.
It is worth noting that the future structure must be immediately insulated, especially if vegetables or spins are stored there in winter.

For thermal insulation, it is best to use orgalist or foam. Cut out the thermal insulation material according to the dimensions of the product and attach it to inner part canvases.

Another heat-insulating material will serve polyurethane foam. Use it to blow out all the cracks and gaps, and when it dries, just cut off its excess. The next step is to close the thermal insulation. Sheets of plywood are also cut to the size of the canvas and fastened with wood screws. Instead of plywood, you can use an additional layer of boards, then your door will be even stronger, better retain heat while ensuring good internal air circulation.

Your front door for the barn is almost ready, it remains only to prepare it for installation. Before installing wooden structure it needs to be sanded well with coarse-grained, and then fine-grained sandpaper. Thus, you will get an absolutely smooth, even wooden canvas without nicks and roughness. Then it remains to cover the door with a paintwork, which will serve as a protective barrier against adverse natural factors.

Door installation - steps

Pay attention to your door frame, maybe it needs minor repairs - repair or replace the threshold, install anchor bolts in weak places. But if your box has a solid fixed design, then you can safely mount the door. If door frame is not suitable for operation or is absent at all, then it will be necessary to make a new wooden structure.
How to make a wooden box:

place the canvas on a completely flat surface;
lay out wooden bars around it, from which the box will be assembled;
cut off excess pieces with a hacksaw or electric jigsaw;
twist or knock down the box.

First you need to install the made box in the doorway. Then install a wooden sheet in it, but do not rush to mount it, as you need to correctly set the gaps. To do this, place a two millimeter sheet of paper between the door and the box. This is a mandatory procedure, since the canvas may not fit tightly into the box. After this procedure, you can install door hinges. They are right or left. Loops choose those that suit you. Loops need to be disconnected. Screw one with screws or screws to the door, and the second, which has a pin, to the box. Install the door on the door hinges, and then check the quality of the installation. Open and close the door. If there are no characteristic squeaks, rattles or obstacles in the form of friction, then the door is installed correctly and you can proceed with the installation door handles and valves. The door has been installed!
Now you know how to make a barn door with your own hands with a minimum set of materials and tools. And the correct calculations, compliance with all manufacturing standards will make your door a durable, solid structure.

A door is a device that allows people to pass through walls. The design includes two main elements. The first is a canvas that, when closed, imitates an “insurmountable” wall, the second is a mechanism that opens doorway. By connecting the canvas with the hanging mechanism, adjusting their coordinated work, everyone can say with confidence that he made the door.

Manufacturing technology of wooden doors

Making a wooden door is very easy. It all depends on the materials that are available. If this is a door for a hut, then with the help of a rope, a knife and sticks of the same thickness, in a matter of minutes you can tie them into an even, flat canvas, and use the same twine instead of loops. But if the task is to make a door to a house or apartment, then you will need special woodworking tools - a saw, a planer, a grinder.

You can make doors of any complexity with your own hands, the main thing is to have a desire and carpentry skills

More recently - about 100 years ago, metal fasteners were very expensive. Therefore, the craftsmen made doors without the use of nails and screws. The joints were wooden, consisted of spikes, grooves and dowels (wooden nails). Fine-tuning parts by hand required skill and craftsmanship. good master did the door for a few days. With the advent of mechanization and automation of production, the production of doors was put on the conveyor, and the "human factor" dropped to the adjustment and adjustment of machine tools with numerical control.

Video: door production in a factory

In today's world, almost every home has a set of tools and fixtures that allows you to make a simple door for your own use. Materials are available and often the task is only to properly assemble and fit.

The most common are two types of doors, fundamentally different in design:

Frame (shield) design. The frame of the future door is made from the array, consisting of two racks and crossbars. The internal space is sewn up with panel material such as plywood, chipboard or fiberboard. The resulting cavity is filled with "honeycombs" or soundproofing material. As a rule, this canvas is rectangular in shape. There are no restrictions on dimensions, but the established shape of the doorway is 2 meters high and 0.5–0.8 m wide. IN rare cases make doors bigger size. For example, 2.2 m high and 90 cm wide. But at the same time, more powerful hinges must be used, since the weight of the sash increases.
Panel door assembled from wooden slats, fits well with country style
Paneled construction. In this case, the door is completely made of natural wood. This increases its weight and strength. It is clear that a solid piece of wood measuring 2x0.6 m will be very expensive. Therefore, the canvas is made from constituent parts, connecting them into a single plane. By definition, a panel is a thin board or plywood inserted inside wooden frame. However, it can be interchangeable.
Solid wood paneled door can be decorated with artistic carvings

With the current technologies for the production of doors, a clear division of the leaf structure into frame and paneled ones has been somewhat erased. The sashes are combined, combining elements of both panels and a shield.

Video: are doors divided into panel and panel doors today (expert opinion)

The industrial production of wooden doors includes the following steps:

Preparation of wood material.
Additional processing and preparation of the array (drying, gluing and impregnation).
Fabrication of canvas and frame parts.
Construction assembly.
Finishing works (painting, varnishing, laminating, etc.).

With self-manufacturing of doors, all stages are reproduced at home.

Equipment and tools

For the manufacture of various kinds doors need different tools. A simple panel board is constructed using a hacksaw (with a small furniture tooth), a hammer or a screwdriver, if fastening is carried out with self-tapping screws. A more "advanced" door is assembled using electrical devices:

Manual electric milling cutter. With its help, the details of the panel are milled and given a profile look. Groove joints involve sampling wood, which is also done using a milling machine.
The router kit includes a set of cutters with different lengths and cutting edge configurations.
Screwdriver or drill. Needed for sash assembly. It should be noted that when using a drill, a tool with adjustable speed is required. Too fast starting rotation will not allow you to control the fastener immersion process.
Screwdriver with adjustable speed and rotation power will allow to produce correct installation fasteners
A circular saw. Manual or stationary. With her help, wooden boards are cut into pieces. Accuracy in cuts is important, so the saw needs to be well adjusted. An unbalanced blade will cut unevenly, with chips.
Built-in circular ruler allows you to cut boards to a given size
Bulgarian with a set of grinding nozzles. The power and high speed of an angle grinder in this situation are only welcome.
Polishing a wooden plane is carried out with special nozzles
Measuring tools - tape measure or carpenter's meter, marker, straight rail-ruler, straight square.
A set of carpentry hand tools: hammer, mallet, chisels, clamps, etc.
Diverse hand tools significantly speed up the process of assembling doors

It is advisable to assemble on a workbench or desktop - it is much more convenient and faster.

As for the material for the doors, the design and shape of the leaf is of great importance here. Inserts can be made of MDF, chipboard, OSB or just plywood. The choice of material depends on the purpose of the doors. For entrances, materials with high strength are used, for interiors - lighter ones, decorative types wood.

The door frame is made from solid wooden blocks. You will need two bars a little more than 2 m long for racks and two meter bars of the same section for the crossbars. On one side, a quarter equal to the thickness of the door leaf is selected. However, a prefabricated frame structure is also possible, in which the supporting surface is created by building up thin rails.

The blank for the door frame is made taking into account the thickness of the door leaf

The most affordable material is pine and spruce boards. Spruce lumber is more durable, but pine has a nicer texture and fewer knots. Soft-leaved wood species - birch, linden, poplar - are practically not used for the manufacture of doors. The oak massif is very popular. Its structure is strong and durable. However, oak harvesting is an expensive process, which naturally affects the final price.

For simple doors with a laminated chipboard insert, you will need:

edged boards 40–60 mm thick and 100–150 mm wide, with a total length of 6 m;
High quality boards are calibrated in all four planes
a sheet of laminated chipboard, with a total area of not more than 2 m 2;
Cutting chipboard according to the given dimensions can be ordered from the supplier upon purchase
PVA glue;
Glue is used to reinforce the fasteners of the wooden elements of the door
varnish or paint;
confirmations from 25 to 35 mm long.
Color-matched plastic plugs make connections almost invisible

Confirmants are special screws with a smoothed end and an “invisible” cap. They are used in the assembly of furniture and other joinery. A distinctive feature is the wide thread pitch, which allows you to securely fasten both fibrous wood and pressed chipboard sheets. Confirmation slots come in different configurations - from ordinary cross to hexagonal and star-shaped. Accordingly, a suitable nozzle is selected for a screwdriver.

To install the confirmation, a special drill with an extension in the upper part is used.

Calculations and drawings

A well-designed drawing will allow you to avoid mistakes and waste of materials in the manufacture of doors. A sketch and detailing is made on a sheet of paper, indicating the exact dimensions of each component of the canvas.

The drawing shows all design features doors

In accordance with building GOSTs, the following parameters are adopted when installing doors:

The distance from the corner to the loops from the bottom and top is the same and is 15–25 cm.
During installation, technological clearances must be observed
The door handle is installed at a height of 80–90 cm from the floor. The position of the locking device on the sash is determined by the lock device. The striker plate is located on the frame and recessed into the wood in such a way that its plane coincides with the plane of the door frame.
The handle and lock are installed on the door last.
The viewing window is placed at eye level - 150–160 cm from the lower edge of the door leaf.
If a ventilation grill is provided in the door leaf, it is fixed in the middle of the door leaf, at a distance of 15–20 cm from the floor.
The ventilation grille can be equipped with a built-in electric fan

You should also pay attention to the seal, which is mounted around the perimeter of the frame. The forms of rubber seals are different and depending on this, the geometry of the profile of the door frame is formed. Some types of seals require an additional recess for installation.

The protective film must be removed before installing the self-adhesive door seal.

And finally door threshold. Most often in interior doors there is no threshold. This saves materials and reduces assembly time. But entrance doors without a threshold are too vulnerable and allow cold air to pass through. Therefore, it is desirable to strengthen this part of the door frame with a metal trim.

Metal platband increases the strength of the door sill

Video: making a simple paneled door

Step by step instructions

Consider Technology self-manufacturing wood door:

Preparatory stage. The prepared boards with the help of a grinding nozzle on the grinder are carefully processed to the state of a polished surface. To do this, it is necessary to use three types of emery: coarse-grained (No. 40), then medium-grained (No. 80) and fine-grained (No. 120). If the boards are planed, then they start immediately with a medium-grained sheet. The final goal of polishing is an absolutely smooth surface with well-developed texture lines of wood. It should be borne in mind that different breeds have different hardness. Processing pine, birch and linden will not take much time and effort. You will have to work hard on oak or ash.
Vibratory grinders are used to polish wood
Next, you need to mill the parts in accordance with the intended design of the door. With the help of a milling cutter and a set of shaped cutters, the ends are given the desired configuration. Each insert fits its groove individually. In addition, you need to make a deep groove along the inner perimeter of the frame. A sheet of chipboard is subsequently inserted into it. The size of the groove is selected in accordance with the thickness of the chipboard - a tolerance of 1 mm is made for grinding. The standard thickness of particle board used for doors is 16 mm. So, the width of the groove will be 17 mm. The depth is selected from 15 to 20 mm, this is enough to securely fix the insert into the canvas frame. At the same time, it must be remembered that in the interests of long-term operation, the depth of the groove is made 1.5–2 mm larger than the size of the spike. Another option is also possible, when chipboard is attached to the canvas frame with glazing beads. Then, instead of a groove on the side posts, it is enough to choose a quarter.
Quarter sampling is preferably carried out on a firmly fixed canvas
Cutting the ends of the boards at an angle of 45 °. If it is possible to use an end circular, the process is greatly accelerated. But if it is not there, the markup is carried out with a simple protractor, and the cut will be performed by the usual circular or hand saw. It is important to accurately maintain the size that needs to be measured along the long side of the door frame.
The miter saw allows you to make a high-quality cut at any angle
Open the panels, in our case, the chipboard sheet. The height and width dimensions are calculated based on the depth of the groove. The width of the two prepared boards (upper and lower) is subtracted from the total height of the doors and the depth of the groove is added. For example, with a door height of 2 m, a width of the upper and lower crossbars of 15 cm and a groove depth of 20 mm, we have: 2000-(150x2) + (20x2) = 174 cm. The same calculations are carried out for width.
Primary installation. It is carried out for the final adjustment of all parts into a single design. Everything is assembled on a workbench (or on the floor), cracks and gaps, the general geometry of the canvas are checked. If “inconsistencies” are found, the canvas is disassembled and adjusted. If there are no deviations, the door can be fastened with confirmations. To do this, holes are first drilled for the diameter of the cap, then the screw is screwed in with the head immersed “flush”.
Door leaf decoration. Of the types available at home, painting and varnishing are the most acceptable. Gluing a decorative film or veneer on rounded surfaces will not work well. A spray gun can be a good help when applying a paint layer. With it, you can achieve a uniform coating on the surface of the door. However, this also requires some experience and skills. Many experts believe that decorating is the most responsible and difficult stage in the manufacture of doors.
Lacquering of doors is carried out in a well-ventilated and lit room.
Hardware installation. Produced last, when the product is already mounted in doorway. Technological holes are prepared in advance for inserting the lock and handle. Recesses for canopies are cut with a chisel based on the size of the loops. The only exception is the rubber seal. If its configuration involves deepening into an array, the groove is cut out at the preparation stage.
The shape of the holes is determined by the configuration of the door hardware

Video: making a wooden entrance door with your own hands

Do-it-yourself door to the barn

For simple household needs, it is not necessary to collect paneled door with complex structures. In the back room or barn, a panel-type door, consisting of a prefabricated canvas and a wooden door frame, will fit perfectly. Very convenient in this regard are doors made of lining or grooved boards. These lumber is sold with already planed grooves and a smooth surface.

The manufacturing process is very simple:

Video: barn doors

A barn is a functional building on a land plot used to store garden tools and various tools. As a rule, they are erected on private land plots used for permanent residence or rest. Increasingly, such buildings are capital structures that have windows and doors, are divided into compartments, and may even have heating. Today we’ll talk about how to properly make a wooden door to the barn with your own hands.

Undoubtedly, you can buy ready system or order it individually from the manufacturers. However, if you have certain knowledge and material and tools are available, why not try to make it yourself. The process is simple, and such experience is always useful. Moreover, we will tell you about all the intricacies of making a homemade wooden door.

Before starting the process, you should make sure that you have available the right materials and tools:

plywood;
boards;
fasteners;
slats;
accessories;
wood glue;
Styrofoam;
nails;
hardboard;
furniture dowels;
drill;
electric jigsaw;
hammer.

Preparatory activities

Regardless of whether you do it yourself simple doors wood or more complex structures We take measurements before starting work. You should carefully measure the doorway several times. Moreover, we determine the parameters not only of the canvas, but also of the box, and then the structure as a whole.

Now we turn to the preparation of the material. For a homemade wooden door, choose only high-quality boards. Using a jigsaw, we cut the boards into elements of the same thickness, taking into account the previously made measurements.

Remember that raw materials with defects will sooner or later play a cruel joke on you. Therefore, it is better to replace low-quality wood with smooth, straight, without chips and cracks.

Sequencing

For subsequent fastening in the boards with a drill, we make the same holes (several pieces). If you decide to make a simple wooden door with your own hands, then 4 holes are enough. In depth, they should be half the size of furniture dowels. The diameters must also match.

Next, we cover each hole and dowel with glue, insert the dowel into the hole so as to connect the boards. We do this with all the elements. In order to make a wooden door to the barn made with your own hands outwardly more beautiful, and the construction is durable, it is recommended to resort to the help of dowels. We make them from rails 1-2 cm wide. The easiest way is to attach the dowel to the main structure by nailing it over the door panel.

It is recommended to insulate the canvas if blanks and tools are stored in the barn in winter. As a heater for a simple wooden door, you can take polystyrene foam or hardboard. You can combine materials. From the selected raw material, we cut out one or more sheets of appropriate sizes and attach them to the inside of the structure. Thermal insulation of a simple wooden door can also be made with mounting foam.

Now sew up the insulating layer. From plywood we cut out sheets of suitable size for the canvas, which are then attached on top of the insulation. For fastenings, we take wood screws. If you don't have plywood, or if you want a tighter construction, sew up the inside with boards.

Construction installation

Before installing a wooden door made of do-it-yourself boards, you should walk along the surface with sandpaper, leveling the top layer. After that, we cover the structure with a protective agent or varnish.

Before DIY installation homemade doors made of wood, you need to look at the available door frame and, if necessary, repair it. If it is not suitable for further use, you need to make a new one. To do this, we place the product on a flat surface (floor, earth), measure it, cut out the desired size of the board and knock them together.

Now we install the box in the opening. After its installation, you should try on the product by inserting a thick sheet of paper between the canvas and the box. The door must fit tightly into the box. Now let's install the hinges - they should be comfortable for you. They differ depending on whether the door is opened forward or backward, to the right or to the left. We fasten one part of the loop to the box, and the other to the canvas. Now you need to check if it opens / closes well and fits tightly into the box. If all is well, attach the handles.

We presented step by step how to make a wooden door with your own hands. As you can see, the process of creation and installation is not difficult if you follow the sequence of actions and use high-quality materials and tools.

To equip the opening of the utility room, practical owners acquire inexpensive, but fully functional door structures. The article talks about choosing and ordering a door to a barn or hozblok. You will learn what requirements apply to input products, get acquainted with the qualities of inexpensive and robust design, as well as with the features of metal and wooden models.

The door as the basis of security Source allamericanwholesalers.com

About requirements for doors

Anyone who lives outside the city acquires a solid amount of things - these are garden tools, and construction tools, and everything that helps to maintain order on the site. All this arsenal is stored in different ways, often in a house or garage. But the most common storage method is a barn or utility block (which often surpasses any barn in its capabilities).

In such outbuildings, it is not customary to install expensive products equipped with an Italian or Israeli lock. A wooden door will quite cope with the isolation of the room from the street. If the building is brick and is intended to store something more valuable (not only a lawn mower, but also, for example, an ATV), a practical owner will think about metal protection. Whatever the door for the hozblok or barn, it must satisfy the following conditions:

Reliability. The protective function is the main default. Reliability depends on the level of burglar resistance, and it depends on the material and design of the door leaf, as well as on the quality of the lock.

Source unsplash.com

Practicality. Cost and ease of use play an important role when choosing a particular model.

Dimensions. The size is set based on specific conditions. It is worth considering the width of the opening if you intend to store a walk-behind tractor or garden wheelbarrow in the barn.

Lifetime. The door structure must demonstrate wear resistance; special requirements are presented to a metal sheet, which should not succumb to corrosion.

Appearance. In many cases, the owners want the door to fit into the design concept of the site, and will consider the finish of the canvas in terms of aesthetics.

Types of structures

A properly equipped outbuilding cannot do without a modern, high-quality and convenient door. The simplest classification of the door structure is according to the material of manufacture, and here the choice is small: your shed (or utility block) will most likely decorate the door leaf made of metal or wood. To make it, you need a fairly high qualification; you can make it yourself only if you have the appropriate skills and experience.

Source marant.ru

In order for the door to perform its functions flawlessly, in most cases you should focus on purchasing a finished model or on order, if for some reason you need a non-standard option. The composition of the door structure includes a frame and door leafs; according to the number of canvases, models are distinguished:

single floor(single hinged). A classic option that protects the contents of the building from prying eyes. Both metal and wooden options are common.

Double field(double hinged). Two sheets of the same width.

One and a half. The canvases have different widths.

Sliding. The advantage of a sliding model is space saving, which is sometimes very convenient. The second plus is that you do not need a door frame to install it. Sliding doors can also have one or two wings.

Source pizzacoin.info

As a rule, a door for an outbuilding is made deaf (solid), which is fully justified by its protective function. Sometimes there are glazed structures that increase daylight premises (often from above it is complemented by a transom). Some metal models related to technical, are produced with a double-glazed window.

Features of metal doors for outbuildings

Metal doors for a barn or utility block have the following features:

Design. Release all entrance doors regulated by GOST 31173–2003. For economy-class products, this means that the door leaf consists of a single sheet of cold-rolled steel and is mounted on a welded or solid-bent frame. For the manufacture of inexpensive models, a steel sheet with a thickness of 1.2-1.5 mm is used; sometimes there are stiffening ribs that are characteristic of more expensive options.

Video description

ABOUT sliding doors in loft style in the following video:

Castle. To protect outbuildings, locks of the second or third class of burglar resistance are chosen, which is quite enough to protect the contents of the barn from unprofessional hacking (a fourth-class lock will not save you from a professional one).

Loop system. Loops are selected according to the dimensions; they must be strong: not deform and securely hold the weight of the web. Depending on the weight of the sash, two to four hinges are designed.

Warming. Most utility doors do not have a thermal insulation layer or sealing contours, which reduces the cost of the entrance unit. If it is important for the owners to maintain an acceptable temperature in the hozblok in the winter, the foam will help increase the level of thermal insulation of the product. If you want a soundproofing effect, the door leaf on the inside is complemented by a layer of mineral wool, polyurethane foam or basalt slab.

Source bymosque.ru

On our website you can find contacts of construction companies that offer. You can directly communicate with representatives by visiting the exhibition of houses "Low-Rise Country".

Appearance. Door leaf painted with primer or polymer (which is somewhat more expensive) paint. Powder coated doors are also available. Any coating performs a protective and decorative role and increases the service life of the product, protecting it from corrosion and mechanical stress.

Details. The closer and the ergonomic handle will make operation of doors more comfortable. Additional options include a peephole, insulating and (or) sealing contours; you may consider it necessary to install armor plates on the locks.

Features of wooden doors for outbuildings

Despite the solid performance metal doors for a barn, wooden models boast a number of advantages:

Versatility. classical wooden surface looks organically on any facade, in any architectural style.

Long service life. Properly and timely processed wood significantly increases the life of the door. For protection, you can use an additional layer of varnish.

Source spanglecondos.com

Performance characteristics. Wood does not freeze during severe frosts, has excellent heat and sound insulation. Installing a three-layer wooden door or two (50 mm thick) in a heated room will solve the problem of keeping warm in winter. The room will not cool down and you will save money on heating.

Burglary resistance. The solid wood door, reinforced with reliable hinges and a lock, is comparable in terms of resistance to a metal counterpart.

Environmental friendliness. Wood is a natural material, the environmental friendliness of which no one doubts for a long time.

Diversity. The construction market has a wide selection of doors made from different woods (pine, oak, larch); the tree is being treated with an antifungal solution. When custom-made, it is possible to decorate with metal (forged) parts.

Video description

About the installation of a wooden door in the following video:

The choice of street doors for the hozblok or barn

The model is selected depending on the type of outbuilding; it must guarantee safety, both at night and during the absence of the owners. If you are going to purchase (or order) doors, the right decision would be to contact a specialized organization; Such cooperation brings many advantages:

High quality. The company with a narrow specialization ensures the strength and durability of the product thanks to the detailed study and experience of craftsmen who have been working in this field for a long time.

Careful selection of material. For production, high-quality metal and durable wood species are used, the best fittings are selected, thanks to which the product is distinguished by reliability and functionality.

The price matches the quality and is formed depending on the dimensions, shape, material, the presence of insulation.

Source instructables.com

Standards. Products are manufactured in accordance with GOST (with mandatory quality control), safe for health, which is confirmed by a certificate.

Custom design. Ready-made doors are made for a specific opening. Perhaps the opening of your barn is designed for bulky items and has non-standard dimensions. In this case, the best solution would be to order a one-and-a-half or two-wing design. Individual execution is indispensable if you want all doors to be in the same style, and the design to make a good impression.

Changes. The complete set, at the request of the customer, can be modified. Replacement does not only concern fittings; the door can be equipped with a ventilation grill, an additional lock can be installed, and a double-glazed window can be installed on the metal structure.

Installation. It is handled by experienced professionals. They perform the whole range of works: they prepare the opening, install the frame, mount the canvas, close up the cracks. On average, the job takes two to three hours.

Source modernwoodtechllc.com

Conclusion

Technical doors, designed to protect the contents of a barn or utility block, are located in an inexpensive price segment. Cheaper prices don't mean lower quality. Usually for metal structures the budget price is formed through the use of slightly thinner steel, an inexpensive facade coating (powder paint, nitro enamel, varnish), simple but reliable hinges, handles and locks. If the insulation is an optional thing, then the installation of rubber seals is recommended by the master in any case. The sealant prolongs the service life: softens blows, improves heat and sound insulation, does not let in odors.

Liked the article? Share it

Print article