Insulation of a wooden house with basalt wool from the outside technology. How to insulate a wooden house from the outside

In anticipation of the winter cold, it is desirable to insulate your home. A log house or a house made of wood, which is durable in itself, needs to be insulated in two cases:
1. If cracks and cracks appeared in the log house.
2. If the building is located in an area where severe climatic conditions.
Insulating a house from the outside is easy if you approach this activity wisely. This means that it is necessary to draw up an approximate scheme of actions. In connection with the choice of material with which you will insulate the house, a plan for fixing it on the facade is included in the scheme. As heaters it is used: polyfoam, polyfoam or mineral wool.
Read about it at this link.

Preparing the house outside for insulation

Having decided on the material, you can begin preparing for the main work. First, the surface should be treated for subsequent laying of the material. If you need to remove the old plaque of plaster, then it is scraped off close to the base. As a result, a smooth surface of masonry made of bricks, blocks or wood should appear. Special attention should concentrate on the surface primer.
If there are noticeable distortions in the levels on the surface, that is, protrusions or holes of more than 1-2 cm, they must be covered with a solution or cut off to the required level. For priming, it is better to choose a solution with deep penetration. Of course, before starting work, it is necessary to remove the remaining dirt. In order to evenly lay a layer of insulation, which should not interfere with further work on plastering or surface cladding with bricks, beacons and plumb lines should be installed in advance. This device will mark the plane of the outer edge of the insulation, which will make installation easier.

Preparing the walls of the house

Technology Description:
1. All decorative elements should be removed from the facade - cornices, platbands, shutters, and so on.
2. Perform a vapor barrier using one of the following materials: bituminous roofing material, aluminum foil, PVC film, polyethylene film. First, the material cut into strips is fixed on the staples. Then it is overlapped, not less than 5 or 10 cm, for tightness. The joints between the strips should be glued with self-adhesive tape.
Important! When vapor barrier it is necessary to leave gaps in the material, but this does not apply to houses with a rounded tree, since air circulation already occurs in the log house.
Holes are holes with a diameter of 2 cm. They are made at the bottom and at the top of the wall. Between them should remain 20-100 cm.

Warming the house outside with mineral wool

1. For styling mineral wool we make a design - a double frame. It is made from spruce or pine planks. Planks are fixed to the end part of the supporting frame in a vertical position. Their width is ½ of the thickness of the thermal insulation, and their thickness is 3.8-5 cm. Between the planks there should not be less than 53 and more than 63 cm, since the mineral wool is 50-60 cm thick. This is done in order not to was to cut this cotton wool.
2. The next heat-insulating layer consists of mineral or glass wool 5-6 cm wide. The insulation layers should be fastened close to one another and so that they do not touch at the junction.
3. Wind insulation is made on the basis of polyethylene material, which has a powerful vapor permeability. Theoretically, it is possible to use bituminous roofing material, but the film is more effective. A layer of film is laid with an overlap (5-10 cm), attaching to a double frame with staples. In places of docking, it must be glued with a “self-adhesive”.

Warming the house outside with mineral wool

4. And again we make a double frame using impregnated wooden planks. The material is similar: pine or spruce. Size: 2.5-3.2 cm in thickness, 5 cm in width. They are fixed in a vertical position, making gaps of 50-60 cm, so that there is room for air circulation. Wouldn't hurt to attach to them metal mesh, which perfectly protects against the penetration of any living creatures.
5. We fix the facade material. The thickness of the boards is 2.5 cm. When choosing a material, one must take into account its resistance to temperature extremes and external influences. Preferably these types: larch, oak and pine. It is possible and necessary to process the boards before laying from dampness. The fastening of the planks can be in any direction according to the design of the house.
Important! It would be good to change the platbands after insulation, since a layer has formed that prevents their installation. door blocks also require replacement.

Insulation of the house outside with polyurethane foam

Thermal insulation with polyurethane foam is carried out in the same way as with mineral wool. First, a frame is erected, protected from the wind from the outside. The material solution fills the frame structure in the wall - next to the film. Docking with the wall is formed tightly, which indicates the best thermal insulation. It should be noted that according to modern technologies construction, polyurethane foam is more often used for insulation of attics and roof slopes. This is due to the fact that in a vertical position it is more difficult to shape the insulation layer, since in itself it is a foam material.

Facing the building after the completion of insulation

After the thermal insulation of the house, its facades should be revetted without fail. Despite the chosen thermal insulation, for cladding they usually prefer:
Brick;
Siding;
Block house.

Starting the cladding, it is required to expand the foundation of the house. Otherwise, under the pressure of the gravity of the cladding, mixing is likely. This technique is widely used during the installation of heavy cladding, and the foundation is expanded, retreating exactly 30 cm from the base building.

Home cladding with vinyl siding
The most practical, easy to assemble and relatively cheap is siding. It is attached directly to the crate, made in advance - before the insulation work. Using profiles for guidance, the cladding is quickly mounted. As a result, the house looks aesthetically pleasing. Due to the variety of shades, siding helps to build a noble-looking home. Approximately the same characteristics of the block house. As for the brick, it is expensive and requires thorough preparation and practical skills to carry out high-quality facing work.

Thus, the external insulation of a private dwelling helps to significantly save on utility costs and protect the building from destruction. You do not need to know any special secrets and technologies to do it yourself.

Every person dreams of a warm house, so that even in the most severe frosts it would be comfortable to be in the room. Therefore, the first question that confronts the owners of their home is how to insulate the walls from the outside on their own. This is especially true for wooden buildings. In this article, we will give instructions according to which the walls of frame and timber houses are thermally insulated from the outside. And for a more visual example, you can watch the video.

There is a huge variety thermal insulation materials. Let us dwell on the choice of insulation for wooden houses, which are massively used by consumers.

Warming wooden house Helps keep wood from breaking

Stone wool in slabs. Such material is easy to cut even with a conventional knife. Due to the low weight of the plates, it is easy to transport even in a passenger car, especially if you need to insulate a small area. During installation, stone wool is placed in the gap between the racks of the frame, and then insulated with vapor barrier material from the inside and waterproofing from the outside.

Attention! During transport or installation, never compress or tamp the mats.

Ecowool. This is an environmentally friendly material for insulation, based on cellulose fibers. Produced in a package, in a slightly compressed form. There are two ways to insulate this material:

dry. To do this, the packaging with glass wool is opened, the material is kneaded and rammed into the walls. The disadvantage of this method is that over time the fibers can shrink, and this will lead to heat loss. However, some manufacturers give a guarantee that this material will not settle for 10-20 years.
wet. Ecowool is sprayed onto the walls and clings to the building frame, so that the material does not settle.

Insulation of a wooden house from the outside

Styrofoam. One of the most budgetary types of insulation. This material does not absorb moisture, so it is not necessary to cover it with a moisture-proof membrane. However, when working with foam, you need to show maximum accuracy, because it can crumble and break.

Attention! As a heater, you need to purchase non-pressed foam sheets.

polyurethane foam. It is sold in the form of two-component substances, which begin to foam when applied to walls when exposed to air. In operation, such material is similar to mounting foam. They fill the voids in the wall, and cut off the excess. The result is a monolithic layer of insulation, which completely eliminates heat loss. Polyurethane foam has water-repellent properties.

Insulation of a house from a bar with polyurethane foam

Natural heaters. These include slabs of sawdust or a mixture of clay and straw. Such materials are environmentally friendly, are inexpensive, but their main disadvantage is the complexity of manufacturing. Linen fiber is also a natural insulation. It has antiseptic properties, preventing the formation of fungus and mold. It is easy to cut, mount, it does not cause allergies and is moisture resistant.

What is the best way to insulate walls?

Pledge quality repair- Well thought out work plan. Therefore, it is worth considering in advance how you will insulate the walls: from the inside or outside. Internal insulation is rarely used, because. because of it, the size of the rooms is significantly reduced. In addition, experts do not recommend warming wooden houses in this way, because. moisture will penetrate into the wood, from the side of the street. Because of this, mold and fungus may appear inside the structure, and the tree itself will begin to rot. In addition, it is necessary to buy material that, in its properties, will match the tree. Linen fiber, soft fiberboard, basalt and fiberglass materials are suitable for this.

House insulation with mineral wool

With the external method of thermal insulation, a uniform layer of insulator is formed for the free release of vapors. The insulation is less dense than wood, because of this, steam escapes through the ventilation gap. External way thermal insulation is an ideal option for those who want to insulate old houses made of timber, which have lost their “presentation” over time, after sheathing they will look like new. However, if the walls are not properly insulated, the tree will begin to deteriorate, and under the layer exterior finish, you will not be able to control the condition of the wood.

Insulation of the walls of a frame house with mineral wool

thermal insulation frame house starts with waterproofing. To do this, you can use glassine - a cheap but effective material. It is cut into strips and fastened with a stapler to the frame of the house, in increments of no more than 12 cm. Glassine sheets are glued with an overlap of up to 10 cm to protect the insulation from condensation.

Advice! If the frame of the house will be sheathed with siding, then a distance of 30-50 mm should remain between it and the insulated facade so that moisture does not linger in the frame.

Then we lay a layer of insulation. Mineral wool is an excellent option for wall insulation. It does not cause allergic reactions, has low flammability and high thermal conductivity, such plates are easily cut with a construction knife. The laying process is simple, first we measure the distance between the racks and add 5 cm on each side for allowances. We cut the sheets of the desired size and lay them on the waterproofing. We close the joints between the frame and the insulation with a strip of mineral wool 3-4 cm wide.

Mineral wool

We lay a layer of vapor barrier on top, for this we use foam phenol. It must be shot to the frame of the building using a construction stapler. Penophenol is laid in a horizontal direction, leaving 5 cm joints with the foil part outward. After that, we sheathe the walls of the house with edged boards or siding.

Insulation of the walls of the frame house with foam

In order to fix the foam on the wall, first we install vertical canopies from the cord. Then glue is applied to the foam sheets, along the edges and at five points inside, and fixed on the wall. Thus, the entire insulation is laid. Next you need to close the gaps mounting foam. For additional strength, we fix the sheets with plastic dowels.

Attention! Styrofoam does not absorb moisture, so additional insulation is not needed in this case.

Outside, the walls must be plastered, and before that, a reinforced mesh must be mounted. Putty will help protect the structure from the influence of external factors, but it should be applied in two layers. After the surface has dried, you can apply a finishing layer with decorative plaster.

Insulation of the walls of the frame house with foam

Insulation of the walls of the house from a bar

External insulation of houses made of timber should be made with slab materials, they are more rigid and do not shrink over time. If you prefer basalt or fiberglass insulation, then you need to choose the right thickness. If the house is made of 15 cm timber, then the thickness of the heat insulator is 10 cm, and if the timber is 20 cm, then you can take a thinner material - 5 cm.

To begin with, the surface of the house is coated with waterproof mastic. Then a vertical wooden frame is installed, which must be smeared with an antiseptic to prevent decay. Then basalt wool is attached to it with the help of self-tapping screws or dowels-umbrellas, for 1 sq.m of insulation - 4-6 fasteners. A diffusion membrane is laid on top as a waterproofing agent. Above wooden frame we nail the slats, 5 cm thick, which will create a ventilation gap to remove moisture. Then we nail the profiles to the rails and install the siding, starting from the bottom, checking the horizontal laying with a level.

Scheme: home insulation

Thus, the choice of insulation depends on your personal preferences. And the decision whether to do internal or external thermal insulation depends on how the finishing will be done. external walls. Well, if you want even the most severe frosts not to bring you inconvenience, you can insulate the walls both inside and outside.

Warming the house with mineral wool: video

Wooden house - insulation

Warming the walls of a wooden house from the outside is an important task for many homeowners in our country. A wooden house is a traditional dwelling of an inhabitant of all-Russian expanses. Wood is a very good structural material with high energy saving and heat efficiency. A house made of logs with a diameter of about 30 cm can easily withstand Siberian frosts and fierce winds, but in addition to the heat-saving qualities of wood, the hut must be insulated. In ancient times, natural material was used for this, which is available and inexpensive. For this, moss, tow, straw were dried.

The method of insulation of joints in the hut

Insulation for the wooden outer walls of the house had a direct practical meaning, because the less heat is lost, the less it is necessary to heat the stove.

In addition to the walls, the floors and roof, windows and doors were insulated. Today, wooden houses are no less popular than in past years. There are a great many constructive ways of building. In doing so, apply different types wood processing and methods of warming wooden houses.

Modern technologies make it possible to relatively inexpensively solve the problem of heat saving and significantly reduce the cost of maintenance and heating. well insulated wooden house requires less investment Maintenance and service.

Methods for insulating the walls of wooden houses

There are several methods for insulating walls from the outside. This is done both with their own hands and with the involvement of specialists practicing modern technologies for wooden houses. It is important not to make a mistake and choose the right thermal insulation for walls, materials for vapor and waterproofing, prepare the wall from the outside for mounting the frame under the insulation or fastening the heat insulator directly to the wall.

Any homeowner wonders how to properly insulate the walls from the outside. At the same time, we must not forget that it is necessary to apply external insulation, and not internally.

There are a number of good reasons for this:

internal insulation reduces the usable area of the house,
the dew point moves inside the wooden wall, which leads to the accumulation of moisture in the walls and rotting,
walls saturated with moisture freeze through, and only inner space Houses,
using non-transparent thermal insulation (extruded polystyrene foam), a greenhouse effect is created inside the house

When considering wall insulation, it is understood that the roof or ceiling and floors are well insulated and insulated from moisture penetration. Incorrectly executed floor insulation nullifies even high-quality wall insulation from the outside.

It is imperative to take into account when using such a heater as polystyrene foam or ordinary foam plastic, that mice often start up in it, violating heat and waterproofing with their burrows and passages. This can lead not only to heat loss, but also to rotting and destruction of structural elements.

Preparing the wall for the installation of insulation from the outside

Before thermal insulation, it is necessary to prepare the walls for the installation of insulation from the outside:

inspect the walls for holes, crevices, holes, if found, caulk or foam with ordinary mounting foam, and then align,
antisepticize the wall surface with a special composition that prevents decay and slows down combustion,
check all electrical wiring passing through the outer walls, ensure access to it in such a way as not to violate the insulation,
align the walls, setting a plane with minimal deviations for the installation of insulation, with an ordinary ax or a planer or a peeling tool,
align and seal window and door slopes from the outside.

Given that the tree is vapor-transparent and has the ability to absorb and release moisture, it is better to use natural, environmentally friendly and non-combustible heaters for insulation: basalt or mineral slabs, glass wool. Insulation can also be in rolls.

Installation of natural insulation on the walls of a wooden house

Eco and stone wool - very good heaters for walls. They allow the wood to breathe and maintain durability. The technology of installation of external insulation of the walls of timber and log houses is similar. First, a vapor barrier membrane is mounted on the prepared wall surface, it is advisable to use those types that allow moisture vapor to escape from the inside of the house, but do not allow cold air to penetrate from the outside and protect against condensation.

Then the plates are mounted. The installation method depends on the subsequent exterior decoration of the house. In most cases, to facilitate the installation of insulation, a crate is preliminarily made from wooden beam or aluminum profile. The guides are mounted on the wall strictly vertically, fastened with wood screws, crossbars are made between them. The parameters of the cells of the crate are slightly smaller than the insulation boards by 2-3 cm for dense laying.

To prevent slipping of the insulation plates, it is fixed with special plastic dowels with fungi. If the insulation is rolled, the crossbars are installed with a smaller step or not installed at all.

The dimensions of the crate depend on the thickness of the insulation and the number of layers. As a rule, they are multiples of 5 cm. When there is more than one layer of insulation, it is advisable to make the crate double with an offset in order to avoid the penetration of cold through the cracks. It all depends on the temperature regime of the area where the insulated house is located, the thickness wooden walls and heat-shielding properties of the insulation.

After installing the insulation in the crate, it is necessary to close it with a waterproofing membrane to protect it from external moisture and blowing.

The membrane is fastened with a stapler to a wooden crate, it is advisable to overlap at least 15 cm and avoid sagging and cracks.

Installation of waterproofing is carried out from the bottom up in such a way that the top layer overlaps the bottom one and prevents moisture from leaking.

Mineral wool or glass wool insulation loses its effectiveness when wet.

You can see how the insulation is mounted by watching the video :

An important point is the removal of moisture from waterproofing. Given that the vapors leaving the house through the vapor-transparent walls and insulation, colliding with cold air, condense and flow down the protective waterproofing, it is necessary to provide them with an unhindered exit to the outside below. To do this, gaps are left in the outer crate for moisture and air to escape. It is also necessary to leave gaps for air circulation or install ventilation grilles at the joints of the wall and the roof vault.

After the installation of the waterproofing, an external finish is made from lining, planed boards, panels or siding. All natural wood exterior materials must be antiseptic and coated protective layer paint or varnish.

The use of foam and foam

In addition to mineral or stone wool a wooden house is insulated from the outside with polystyrene foam and extruded polystyrene foam.

Styrofoam is a fairly cheap and energy-efficient material, but it has many disadvantages: it is afraid of moisture, it is not vapor-transparent, combustible, and fragile.

Its use requires careful protection against moisture penetration, devices for additional ventilation in the house in order to avoid the greenhouse effect and excessive humidity. When attaching the foam to the wall of the house, glue and the same plastic fungi are used, as in the installation of mineral plates. The joints between the layers of foam must be foamed.

It is necessary to use foam plastic with a density of at least 15 kg / m3, and it is better to use special facade modifications from 25 kg / m3.

Extruded polystyrene foam or foam plastic is much more efficient than polystyrene, it is moisture resistant, has increased moisture resistance and provides good thermal protection, but is also combustible and not vapor-transparent.

Styrofoam and foam plastic are often used when they are chosen as an exterior finish. wet facade". The production method is as follows: a combined adhesive special composition with a reinforcing facade mesh, creating a durable protective surface over the insulation.

Corners before application adhesive composition you need to install paint corners. When applied, it is leveled and rubbed off like plaster. After drying, a decorative coating of various structures and colors is applied on top.

Depending on the taste of the owner of the house or design solution decorative elements are used: moldings, platbands for window framing, cornices.

All of the above methods of insulation can be carried out by the owner of the house on their own. This does not require special knowledge, skills and tools, except for accuracy and compliance with a number of the mentioned features of each of the heaters. Careful adjustment of the insulation boards and the correct installation of protective membranes will ensure reliable insulation and comfort in the house in any weather. After all, a well-insulated house, even in great heat, keeps cool for a long time.

Comparison of characteristics of heat-insulating building materials

Another question that always arises before insulating the walls of the house is how thick and dense the insulation should be, how to choose the right one and not make a mistake. Of great importance is what profile the house is built from, its heat-shielding performance without insulation. If the house was built in Siberia with thin walls, then it is necessary to apply the most effective thermal protection against possible freezing. But it is better to focus on the properties of the insulation, its energy-efficient qualities.

An analogy for the thickness of a wall made of various building materials.

It is easier and clearer for most homeowners to proceed from the practical degree of heat sufficiency with a certain thickness of the walls of the house in each individual region of our country.

Wood is a material widely used in construction due to its many advantages. The popularity of building structures and wood finishes provides environmental friendliness, strength and low thermal conductivity of wood, so wooden houses in the suburbs and countryside, built using modern technologies, do not look like anachronisms to this day - they are durable, beautiful, and provide a comfortable temperature regime it is easier in them than in stone buildings.

Private house made of wood

However, due to the impact on the enclosing structures of unfavorable factors - temperature changes, humidity, microorganisms, the wood dries out, rots, deforms and eventually loses its properties more and more. positive characteristics including thermal insulation properties.

If you insulate a wooden house, and, moreover, perform the operation in a timely and correct manner, this will not only protect the walls of the log house and extend its service life, but also reduce heating costs by reducing heat loss, and also improve the microclimate in the home. Consider how best to do it, including with your own hands.

Features of warming a wooden house

Wood is a unique material that has the ability to “breathe”, and the intensity of this “breathing” (vapor permeability) along and across the fibers is different. The maximum vapor permeability coefficient of a tree is along the fibers, the minimum is across. This characteristic also depends on the type of tree.

According to the classification according to SP 23-101-2004, including the recommendations of clause 8.11, the walls of a wooden house on which insulation is made are two-layer structures, therefore their insulation is performed from the outside:

Excerpt from SP 23-101-2004

Material suitability criteria for warming a wooden house

To meet the requirements of building regulations, the sequence of layers should not only prevent the accumulation of moisture in the thickness of the building envelope, but also contribute to its evaporation / weathering. Therefore, the vapor permeability of each of the layers is important.

Important! To exclude wetting of a multilayer building envelope, the vapor permeability of the materials of its layers should increase in the direction “from inside to outside”.

The processed logs or bars have a surface, most of which consists of sections of fibers. The vapor permeability across the fibers of such products is higher than that of untreated products, but to a certain depth.

For clarity, we will reduce building materials with thermal insulation properties in a comparative table and arrange them after wood in descending order of the vapor permeability coefficient:

Material	Density	Vapor permeability mg/m h Pa
Wood (pine, spruce) across/along the grain
Mineral wool
PVC foam (marking "1")
Expanded clay concrete
Autoclaved aerated concrete D500
Hollow Clay Brick
Solid clay/lime brick
Penoplex
polyurethane foam
Styrofoam
Ruberoid, glassine
Polyurethane mastic
Polyethylene

Conclusion - of the listed heaters, mineral wool has the optimal degree of vapor permeability.

The vapor permeability coefficient of polystyrene foam is small, but despite this, the use of foam plastics as a heater for wooden houses is not prohibited by standards. The same applies to penoplex, which is superior to polystyrene foam in terms of strength characteristics, but also has low vapor permeability.

Materials used to insulate wooden walls

Highlighting two groups of insulating materials suitable for insulating wooden structures, consider the degree of suitability of each isolant - this will allow you to better understand than specifically and for what assembly technology insulate a wooden house from the outside.

Mineral wool insulation

This group of thermal insulation materials includes the following insulators:

stone wool;
slag wool;
glass wool;
ecowool.

Stone (basalt) wool - non-combustible heat-resistant fibrous material in the form of plates or mats, made from rocks and withstanding heating up to 600 0 C. The basalt fibers of the insulation are interconnected with formaldehyde resins, and to reduce hygroscopicity, the insulator is treated with a hydrophobic composition. Improved types of stone wool are available with a foil, fiberglass or kraft paper coating. The expediency of using basalt wool as a heater for wooden houses is determined by its low thermal conductivity, high vapor permeability and resistance to microorganisms, and the significant rigidity of the mats with low weight makes it the best option when choosing a mineral wool insulator.

Important! Stone wool fibers are elastic and, unlike glass wool, do not cause skin irritation, but the laying of this material must still be carried out using personal protective equipment (respirator, goggles and clothing).

stone wool

The disadvantage of basalt wool is its high cost relative to other heaters in the group.

slag wool - a heat insulator produced from the waste of the metallurgical industry, produced in the form of plates and rolls, often with foil on one side. The thermal insulation characteristics of slag wool are worse than those of the previous insulating material, and its maximum heat resistance is 300 0 C, but at a price it is a widely available material that is good noise protection and repels rodents.

Important! Serious disadvantages of slag wool are hygroscopicity and release of compounds sulfurous acid when wet, which has a destructive effect on wood.

slag wool

Due to these shortcomings, slag wool is the least preferred material for wood insulation from the group of insulators under consideration.

glass wool - long-fiber insulation with a low specific gravity, produced from a molten mixture of cullet with limestone and borax. It is produced in rolls and sheets, foil and with a reinforcing fiberglass coating. A significant length of fibers (15-50 mm) provides glass wool superiority over other types of mineral wool insulation in elasticity, resilience and tensile strength.

Glass wool is not combustible, heat-resistant (withstands up to 450 0 C), vapor-permeable, resistant to chemical substances and has high thermal insulation properties. When wet, the material loses its heat-shielding properties and dries for a long time, therefore, like other heaters of the group under consideration, it needs hydroprotection.

The main disadvantage of glass wool is the difficulty of working with it, due to the fragility and causticity of the fibers that penetrate ordinary clothing and are dangerous to the respiratory tract, eyes and skin.

Ordinary sheet and roll foil glass wool

To make a choice between slag and glass wool, a comparative table will help:

Comparison of characteristics reveals the preference for using glass wool, but this is without taking into account the possibility of using basalt thermal protection, which is the best option.

Ecowool - a heater made from paper industry waste, consisting of natural cellulose (80%) with the addition of flame retardants, which provide the ability to absorb and evaporate moisture without compromising the thermal insulation characteristics of the material. The composition of the insulator also includes antiseptics and insecticides that protect the insulation from insects, rodents and microorganisms.

Ecowool is produced in the form of a dry loose mass of light gray color, packaged in bags, which is applied to the base using special compressor equipment.

Despite a number of significant advantages (high thermal insulation properties, sound and vibration absorption, environmental friendliness), the popularity of this insulation due to the complexity and high cost of mechanical application is low. Laying by hand is laborious, time-consuming and less efficient.

Solid polymer insulation

Given the low vapor permeability of these polymers, the wood trimmed with them from the outside will not “breathe”, as a result of which it will begin to dampen and rot. Accordingly, to prevent these processes, special attention will have to be paid to ventilation. interior spaces and materials for their decoration, which entails considerable additional costs, both during the arrangement and during operation.

Thus, the use of foams on wooden structures from the outside it is impractical, light overlaps along interfloor wooden beams do not need insulation at all. But concrete slabs, stone plinths of wooden houses need thermal protection, and solid polymers with their high thermal insulation characteristics will effectively provide it.

From sheet polymer thermal insulation materials for the insulation of concrete structures of wooden houses, the most popular are:

expanded polystyrene;
penoplex;
PVC foam.

Styrofoam - one of the many varieties of foam, in everyday life it is often called that. It has high thermal insulation characteristics, is light, easy to process, cheap, but at the same time it is fragile, combustible and vapor-tight.

Styrofoam (one of the foams)

In addition, the structure of this insulating material is a closed balls, the cavities between which are available for water penetration. The moisture accumulated in the foam plastic not only adversely affects the structures finished with it, but also, freezing, destroys the insulation shell itself. Accordingly, these shortcomings require the implementation of additional, compensatory types of work and impose restrictions on the use of expanded polystyrene.

Penoplex (extruded polystyrene foam ) - an improved foam, a dense and solid insulation, due to its high characteristics, it is widely used in civil and industrial construction.

The working temperature range of foam plastic is wide (from -50 to +75 0 C) and depends on the density of a particular brand of material applied to the sheets in the form of the letters "K", "C", "F", "Comfort", "45". For the insulation of wooden walls, a heater marked "C" (wall) and "Comfort" (universal) is intended.

Important! Penoplex with a density of less than 25 kg / m 3 should not be used - such material will be porous, loose and short-lived.

Advantages of extruded polystyrene foam

Penoplex is resistant to mechanical stress and moisture, which makes it a higher price than foam plastic, but this material also has low vapor permeability.

In turn, penoplex has two improved varieties - "Technoplex" and "Polyspen", differing in size strength characteristics and vapor permeability.

"Technoplex" and "Polyspen"

For use in residential premises, both types are used, but with the marking "35".

PVC foam - a closed-cell material based on polyvinyl chloride, produced by pressing and having the best vapor permeability in the group of solid polymer insulation. In terms of strength, PVC foam is superior to foam plastic, which allows it to be used as a structural material, but does not create difficulties when processed with a manual or mechanical tool.

Polyfoam PVC-1

Petrol and oil resistance, low water absorption (less than 4%), a wide operating temperature range (from -60 to +60 0 C), self-extinguishing ability and high biostability, combined with the advantages listed above, cause the high cost of PVC foam, which hinders popularity. In addition, this self-extinguishing insulator, surrounded by a flame, still burns, moreover, with suffocating smoke - hydrogen chloride released during combustion, combining with moisture, forms hydrochloric acid.

Ways of external thermal protection of a wooden house

Wooden buildings are insulated in two ways:

under the "wet" facade;
under a hinged (ventilated) facade.

The choice of a method for insulating wooden walls from the outside depends on the section of the crowns (log or timber) and the technology of subsequent external wall cladding.

"Wet" facade they call the decoration of insulated walls by applying building and decorative solutions to the insulation, in which no gap is provided between the thermal protection layer and the finishing cladding. With this method, the thermal protection shell turns out to be loaded with plaster and decorative coatings, so it is attached to the wall by gluing over the entire area. The base for such fixation of the insulator must be even, therefore, under the “wet” facade, houses made of beams are insulated.

Ventilated facade implies the presence of an air gap between the outer cladding and the insulation layer, which is achieved by installing a frame system on the wall, consisting of a batten, a counter-batten and fasteners. In this case, the load from exterior finish carries a frame, the installation of which is possible on a wall of any profile.

Frames for a ventilated facade - wooden and metal

Important! With any method of external insulation of wooden walls, plastic fungi with steel screw-in cores are used to fasten thermal protection.

Insulation device for a "wet" facade

Insulation installation on wooden base for this type of exterior finish differs from a similar operation on a stone wall only in the technology of preparing the base and fasteners.

To perform the work, a period of stable dry weather is selected.

First of all, the walls are cleaned of dirt, dust, moss and inspected for damage by woodworms.

Cleaning the crowns with a power tool with an abrasive nozzle

Important! If the wood has traces of the presence of a grinder beetle, it is impossible to insulate the house - the inaccessibility of structures will accelerate their destruction due to the impossibility of performing periodic pest control.

The cleaned bases are covered with an antiseptic twice with an interval of a day, this is especially carefully done along the lower crowns, corners and ends of the logs.

After one or two days of drying the walls, the cracks in the logs, the gaps between the crowns are tightly caulked and filled with sealant.

Cracks in logs and their repair

Stone wool mats are glued tightly butt to each other on the walls with an elastic composition for wood and fastened to the base with dowels with steel rods. The effective thickness of the insulation should be at least 10-15 cm.

Then a thin layer of cement leveling mixture is applied over the insulation with a spatula. A reinforcing fiberglass mesh is glued onto the hardened shell, followed by a primer applied with a brush.

On top of the dried primer, plastering and finishing painting is performed.

Important! The use of leveling mortars and acrylic-based paints on wooden walls is not compatible with the high vapor permeability of wood.

Due to the dynamism of the surface of wooden bases, a “wet” facade is not always the best solution for insulating a wooden house, since the plaster layer is a fairly static, rigid shell.

Thermal insulation device for a ventilated facade

On dry walls treated with an antiseptic, a vertical crate of wooden bars with a cross section equal to the thickness of the insulation is attached. The step of the bars is 3-4 cm less than the width of the insulation - this will allow you to lay the mats tightly, against each other.

Inner row of battens

On top of the bars, after laying the thermal protection in the niches between them, a windproof vapor-permeable membrane is fixed with a stapler - placing the strips horizontally, with the porous surface inward, gluing the seams with adhesive tape. Then, a counter-lattice is arranged along the film - a frame of a ventilating gap made of vertical wooden bars with a thickness of at least 5 cm, superimposed on the lower slats and attached to them with self-tapping screws. The resulting structure of vertical ties is the basis for the installation of finishing sheathing - vinyl siding, lining, block house, etc.

The outer row of lathing bars and clapboard cladding of a wooden house

Watching this video will add clarity to the idea of \u200b\u200binsulating a wooden house:

In the same way, but after glazing, you can perform thermal insulation of the wooden walls of the terrace or veranda, turning them into a cozy mound in winter.

Insulation of a wooden house from the inside

Considering that the thermal protection layer on wooden bases should be 10-15 cm, the total loss of useful housing volume after insulation from the inside will be significant. Therefore, in the topic of internal thermal protection, it is more expedient to consider the better to sheathe inside the house not wooden walls, and concrete floors between floors and above the basement, as well as the floor in the basement.

It is much easier to heat-insulate the plates from the floor side than to mount the insulator on the ceiling of the room below. But the floor insulation, in order to withstand mechanical loads, must be hard enough or equipped on top of the reinforced concrete screed. And here the best option for a heat-shielding material will no longer be mineral wool, but extruded foam.

On the cleaned and leveled floor, waterproofing is arranged, on top of which foam sheets fitted to the size are laid end-to-end. The strength of this material allows you to limit yourself to the subsequent device of a leveling screed 3 cm thick, on which they then put ceramic tiles or other finishing floor cladding.

Having insulated the floors of the basement, the first and second floors, as well as the attic floor, the task of thermal insulation of wooden housing from the inside will be almost completed, since an important role in reducing heat loss is also played by window blocks and glass panes.

Conclusion

External thermal insulation of a wooden house is not a whim and not a tribute to fashion. Done correctly, it will not give you a reason to regret the costs - a significant increase in the durability of housing from expensive natural material is worth it.

The main essence of the article

Wood - natural construction material, which has, among other things, thermal insulation properties, therefore wood construction popular today.
In order to extend the life of log houses and slow down the loss of their unique qualities by wood, wood structures must be insulated. The best way insulation of housing made of wood is its thermal protection from the outside, and best material- basalt wool. Foam plastics for arranging wood structures are not suitable, but are in demand for external thermal insulation of plinths and internal flooring.
"Wet" and ventilated facades are two structures used today that provide thermal protection for wooden walls, but under physical characteristics wood more "sharpened" the second version.
Under the insulation of wooden houses from the inside, one should understand the thermal insulation of concrete slabs of interfloor ceilings.

Follow the technology insulation of a wooden house from the outside, perform the work carefully and in the indicated sequence:

the first layer is a film for vapor barrier of walls;
installation of a frame crate;
direct installation of the selected insulation;
fastening on the frame of the waterproofing layer;
installation of facade cladding.

The choice of insulation

What is the best way to insulate a wooden house? Get to know the popular materials for protecting a wooden structure.

Mineral wool

Many owners choose mineral wool. Quite reasonable. This lightweight material:

retains heat well;
not subject to combustion;
it is soft and elastic;
it is easy to work with him;
withstands temperature changes;
cold bridges are absent.

External wall insulation with mineral wool is often used by owners of new and old log houses. First, equip the frame and fill it with rolls of mineral wool. The material fills the voids well.

The supporting structures of the frame tightly hold the mineral wool. Additional fastening is not required. They produce material in rolls, plates or mats.

New boards are laid on top and sheathed with plastic siding. The building will acquire modern look.

Ecowool

This insulation came to us from Finland. In harsh conditions, the material, consisting of cellulose and antiseptics, successfully withstood the test of severe frosts and icy winds.

Advantages:

eco-friendly, natural material;
prevents the appearance of mold;
mice do not gnaw ecowool;
excellent noise and heat insulation;
used for external and internal insulation;
the walls "breathe" well;
when smoldering does not emit toxic substances.

Installation of ecowool does not require the arrangement of a vapor barrier layer. Methods for applying the cellulose mixture: wet-glue, bulk, by blowing using a special machine.

A high-quality, monolithic layer 10 cm thick will allow you to create reliable protection by cold. Suitable for use in various climatic zones.

Styrofoam

This material insulates the house from the inside. Outside, insulate a house from a bar with polystyrene foam Not recommended. Cause? The material does not breathe well. The result - the appearance of condensate, wood decay, the development of mold fungi.

Cold bridges inevitably form between the base and polystyrene foam in places of loose fit. Some of the heat will be wasted.

For internal thermal insulation, with the help of foam, the rack frame is first stuffed to provide an air gap. Plates up to 5 cm thick are fixed with adhesive mortars or special fasteners.

Insulation of the walls of a wooden house from the outside

Have you already decided on the type of insulation? Mineral wool or ecowool - you decide. It remains to consider stages of insulation of the outer walls of a wooden house.

In the photo you see one of the insulation options, the order of work.

vapor barrier

The purpose of this layer is ensure adequate ventilation of the facade under the foil. If the facade is made of round logs, you can fix the material directly on the tree. The gaps will be sufficient.

On a smooth surface, you first need to fill wooden slats. Thickness - 2.5 cm. Keep the distance between them - within a meter.

You will need aluminium foil, roofing material, a special vapor barrier film. Attach the vapor barrier layer to the rails. Cut a hole in the top and bottom for ventilation. Diameter - 2 cm.

Important: where nails or staples are driven in, glue the surface with adhesive tape to seal.

Arrangement of a wooden frame

You will need a regular board. Width - no more than 10 cm, thickness - no more than 5 cm. Thinner ones are not suitable for this design.

Nail the boards vertically. Make sure that the distance between them is 1-2 cm less than the width of the insulation. So you prevent the appearance of cracks and voids.

thermal insulation

If you chose ecowool, use a blower to apply the cellulose mixture to the wall. Remember- No vapor barrier required!

Lay the mineral wool slabs in the prepared frame, achieving a snug fit. Choose semi-rigid boards with a density of 120kg/m3. Additional fastening is not required.

waterproofing layer

To you special film required with vapor permeability over 1300g/sq.m. its task is to let steam through, but prevent it from getting on the insulation layer. Installation is carried out in the same way as when installing a vapor barrier layer.

It remains to fill the frame with boards to dry the condensate that has fallen on the waterproofing layer. Suitable boards with a thickness of 2.3 to 3 cm and a width of 5 cm.

To protect against insects and rodents, install a metal mesh with small cells from below. Pay special attention to the arrangement of the protective layer when insulating a log house with mineral wool.

outer skin

What will your house look like after insulation? You can stuff a wooden lining or eurolining made of larch, oak or pine. Treat the boards, open them with varnish.

Think about the design of doors and windows. Insulation will increase the thickness of the walls up to 25cm. You can move them to another place and equip new ones. wooden frames, platbands, window sills.

The second option is to give the house a stylish, modern look. You will need a block how, vinyl or metal siding. Work is carried out from the bottom up. Attach the cladding with screws or nails.

To your attention is a video about the insulation of a wooden house from the outside. What is the best way to insulate?

Prices for insulation

Warming of private houses and cottages can be done independently. This option only costs material.

Many owners turn to construction companies. In the absence of skills, time and desire to carry out the insulation of your home, allocate a certain amount to pay for the work of professionals. These are the average rates.

A full range of works on the arrangement of thermal insulation: from 1080 to 4000 rubles. per sq.m. The total cost depends on the chosen insulation and the method of installation of the protective layer.

Warming of a wooden house outer side – a process that requires a balanced approach to all stages of work. Purchase high-quality materials, listen to the advice of experts, follow the technology - and your log house will be warm. The new decorative facade will set the mood.

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