Toilet connection to water supply and sewerage. Do-it-yourself toilet installation: step-by-step installation of a toilet installation How to connect a metal-plastic pipe to a toilet bowl

Uninterrupted and trouble-free operation of the bathroom is the key to a comfortable stay, whether in a city apartment, in a country mansion or a country house.

And if calling professional plumbers for installation or in the city is not a problem, then in countryside, most likely, the problem will have to be solved on its own.

Connect to plastic or cast iron pipe You will learn in which cases to use corrugation, fan or eccentric connections by carefully studying this article.

Photo: corrugation, fan and eccentric connections

The main thing that determines the scheme for connecting the toilet to the sewer network is the model of the plumbing fixture itself, or rather, the implementation of the release.

All currently produced toilet bowls are designed using the following most common schemes:

• plumbing fixtures with a horizontal outlet, most often connected directly to the wall of the room allocated for the bathroom;
• with an oblique release, organized, as a rule, at an angle of 45 degrees. The most versatile option, allowing the possibility of drains output, both to the wall and to the floor;
• with vertical outlet. In this case, water is discharged into a pipe located under the floor at the location of the toilet.

Each of the above schemes has its pros and cons, which should be considered when choosing one or another model of the "faience bowl". You should also take into account the layout of sewer pipes in the bathroom.

Drain pipe perpendicular to the floor

Vertical outlet toilets were widely used throughout Europe in the 1970s.

Of the advantages of such a scheme, one can note the ability to put a plumbing fixture close to the wall of the room and an elegant look that is not spoiled by protruding adapters from the drain to the receiving socket of the sewer pipe.

A serious drawback is the piping that runs under the floor. In the event of a leak or clogged pipe, you will not only have to dismantle the toilet, but also break the tiled or tiled floor covering.

Photo: drain pipe perpendicular to the floor

Today, such models are not popular, and, accordingly, are produced in small quantities.

Drain pipe parallel to the floor

Horizontal release is widespread on the territory of the countries that were part of the USSR.

The main reason is the features of sewerage wiring in panel high-rise buildings built at that distant time. Plumbing was connected to a riser located in the wall of a room allocated for a bathroom or toilet.

Photo: drain pipe parallel to the floor

The main advantage is the ease of connection. It is enough just to slide the toilet bowl onto the receiving socket of the riser, seal the connection and screw the foot of the bowl with dowels to the floor of the bathroom.

The main drawback is that it is only suitable for connecting to a vertical riser. No other options are possible.

Drain pipe at an angle to the floor

Oblique, at 45 degrees, release, is a compromise between the two schemes described above. Versatility is an undoubted advantage of such a scheme, while a relatively large distance between the toilet bowl and the wall of the room, which is necessary for the correct connection of the toilet bowl, can be considered a conditional disadvantage.

Photo: drain pipe at an angle to the floor

This concludes our introduction to design features various models plumbing fixtures that are so necessary in our everyday life and let's move on to considering the most common options for connecting them.

Corrugated connection

The most "indulgent" method to the professional qualities of the master. The corrugated pipe stretches and bends, which allows for some inaccuracies and dimensional errors when installing the toilet.

The main disadvantage is the sagging of a thin-walled connecting element, the ability to easily violate the integrity of the surface during cleaning or repair work in the bathroom.

The following materials are required for connection work:

• corrugated pipe, to organize the connection;

Photo: corrugated pipe

• two sealing cuffs, one for connection with the socket of the sewer pipe and, in fact, the toilet bowl;

Photo: sealing cuffs
Photo: silicone sealant, for sealing joints

One of the ends of the corrugation, lubricated with sealant, is installed in the receiving socket of the sewer pipe, achieving a snug fit of the cuff. The second end, also treated with a sealant, is connected to the outlet of the toilet bowl.

Photo: connection through the corrugation

Important! After the time required for the polymerization of the sealant, it is necessary to check the connection for leaks. To do this, just pour 1-2 buckets of water into the toilet.

If there are no leaks at the joints, you can proceed to fixing the bowl leg with dowels or cementing.

Important! For high-quality sealing of joints, the sealant should be applied in a thick layer. The excess squeezed out during the installation of the corrugations can then be easily cut off with a sharp knife or razor. If possible, the pipe should not sag, forming a kind of siphon.

Photo: connecting the toilet to the sewer with a corrugation

Connecting the toilet to the sewerage system using fittings

Connecting a floor-standing toilet with a shaped, vent pipe (pipe) requires a much more accurate calculation and skill.

Photo: connecting a floor-standing toilet with a shaped pipe

To organize this type of connection, the following materials are required:

• a branch pipe or a shaped pipe, the bending angle of which corresponds to the purchased model of the toilet bowl and the location of the receiving socket of the sewer pipe;
• resin strand or silicone sealant to seal the created joints;
• construction tape measure and a lot of patience, since the shaped pipes cannot be cut, and the slightest deviation from the calculated installation point threatens to go to the store for the next set.

Depending on the type of outlet (vertical, horizontal or oblique), a nozzle of a suitable configuration should be purchased. For a vertical outlet toilet, it would look like this:

Photo: vertical outlet toilet

For horizontal

Photo: toilet with horizontal outlet

For oblique release

Photo: oblique outlet toilet

The outlet of the toilet bowl is lubricated with a mixture of red lead and drying oil. A resin strand is wound on top. Approximately 0.5 centimeters of the outlet should remain free, in order to prevent the strand from falling into the nozzle and clogging the drain.

From above, the strand is also covered with red lead. Next, a pipe is put on. To seal the connection between the pipe and the inlet socket of the sewer pipe, a rubber cuff is most often used.

After carrying out a sealing test, you can proceed to fixing the toilet bowl.

If the toilet is hanging

The installation of this plumbing product is significantly different from all the methods discussed above. A wall-mounted toilet, in addition to its own weight, must also hold the weight of the owner.

This strength is achieved by using a steel mounting frame or traverses.

Photo: connecting a hanging toilet to the sewer

The output of water is carried out horizontally into the wall. After mounting the frame, which has a reciprocal hole for the sewer pipe, the toilet bowl is “sit down” on steel studs, ensuring its reliable retention.

The connection of the outlet and the receiving socket of the riser is carried out using a cuff or pipe, sealed with red lead mixture and a resin strand. Such a connection is highly reliable and has a long service life.

Important! Installation and connection wall mounted toilet Do not do it yourself, I recommend using the services of professionals.

A photo: wall hung toilet to the sewer

The difference in connecting to a cast iron and plastic pipe

There are no fundamental differences in connection methods. However, there is one feature, the knowledge of which will save a lot nerve cells"home master".

Cast iron pipes, corroded by time and corrosion, require careful sealing of the connection of the receiving socket - branch pipe, eccentric cuff or corrugation.

Photo: connecting a floor-standing toilet to a cast-iron and plastic sewer

To seal the connection of a branch pipe or a fan pipe, a resin strand and a red lead mixture are most often used. Silicone sealants are used to seal the corrugated pipe or eccentric collar.

Plastic sewer pipes are not affected by corrosion, and throughout their entire service life they retain a perfectly smooth surface.

In addition, the receiving socket of a plastic sewer is often equipped with a shaped stamping with a sealing ring, which, together with a rubber cuff, ensures a reliable sealing of the connection.

If the sewer is very old

In the thirties - sixties of the last century, the sewer outlet was located vertically under the floor. It was connected to the riser by a ladder running at an angle of 45 degrees from the connection point to the riser.

Important! For such sewer wiring, you should choose a toilet bowl with a vertical outlet, turned not back, but forward. Otherwise, there is a very high chance, sitting on the “throne”, to rest your knees on the bathroom door.

A plastic pipe is used for connection, sealing is best done with a resin strand or silicone sealant. For additional guarantee of absence bad smell you can use a rubber cuff that stretches from above onto the receiving socket of the sewer pipe.

Photo: connecting the toilet to the old sewer

I hope that the studied material gave an answer to the question - using all the technical achievements of the plumbing industry.

Installation of a floor toilet is usually carried out after the completion of the construction of a private house or cottage, or overhaul restroom. The service life of such a device is calculated in years, so the installation process should be approached carefully and deliberately.

Despite the fact that the functional purpose of any toilet bowl is extremely simple, the design and installation method can vary greatly.

The procedure for connecting the toilet to the sewer varies depending on the form of release, the material of the sewer pipeline and other parameters.

It is worth paying attention to a number of important points which must be observed regardless of the installation method:

• In the area from the outlet of the toilet to sewer collector The cross section of the pipe must not be reduced in any way. Upward change is allowed. When combining several sewer lines, this condition is especially important.
• Horizontal sections of drain pipelines should be located with a slight constant slope towards the collector. For the most popular diameter - 110 mm - the optimum level of slope will be approximately 2 cm per linear meter of pipe.
• The toilet must be installed at the minimum possible distance from the connection to the sewer.
• It is not allowed to connect it to the sewerage system together with any other plumbing device. The toilet connection point must be the lowest in the connection diagram.
• In order to avoid sagging, in extended sections the drain pipe is fixed in steps approximately equal to its 10 diameters. This requirement is especially relevant for flexible plastic products.
• Full use of the device is not allowed until the sealant or cement has completely cured. Failure to follow this rule may nullify all installation efforts and require the installation procedure to be repeated.

Installation and connection of toilet bowls of almost all modifications is carried out according to one scheme. Usually, an instruction is attached to the product, after studying which you can install it yourself. For your convenience, we suggest watching a video tutorial on how to accurately install a toilet bowl.

Choosing a new toilet

Before going to the store for a new toilet, you need to decide on the size of the device and how to connect to. This will depend on the outlet of the device. It can be of three types.

1. Vertical.
2. Horizontal.
3. oblique.

Vertical sewer pipe

After that, you can choose a device from those models whose outlet drain design is suitable for connecting to your sewer system. No adapter will help connect a toilet with a vertical drain to a horizontal one. sewer pipe. So this choice parameter is the most important, everything else is a matter of taste and wishes.

The shape of the toilet bowl can be:

• plate-shaped;
• funnel-shaped;
• visor.

Types of toilet bowls in the shape of a bowl

The visor design prevents the formation of splashes of water when flushing. Water flushing can occur in a circular manner or in a continuous stream.

Toilets themselves can be different design. It can be a monoblock, a corner toilet, a compact toilet or a separate one, when the bowl and the toilet are located separately.

Toilet bowls by mounting method

According to the method of fastening, toilet bowls differ in attached and standing separately. The attached toilet looks like a hanging toilet. Available for sale with or without tank. fasten different ways. Most often, this is an option with two or four mounting ears for an anchor or screw, but there are models that are attached to special corners fixed to the floor.

Connecting elements

Connecting the toilet to the sewer pipe will require connecting elements. You just need to choose the right one.

All elements are connected hermetically due to rubber seals. The exception is connecting the cuff to an old cast-iron sewer pipe. In this case, the joints are coated with a sanitary sealant.

Dismantling the old device

Before starting work, prepare a bucket and rags. First of all, turn off the water supply valve to the drain tank. Drain the water and unscrew from the tank water pipe. Now we disconnect the tank from the bowl, most likely the fastening bolts are rusted and oxidized or stuck with deposits. Use hex ring spanner If you can't unscrew it, try tightening the bolt slightly. With translational movements back and forth, the nut should turn. Do not be too zealous so as not to split the tank. If this does not help, then spray the nut with WD-40, kerosene or turpentine. After a day, try to unscrew it again by rocking it.

Disconnecting the cistern of an old toilet

Now you can move on to unscrewing the toilet. Fasteners can be an anchor bolt with a nut or a dowel. If the toilet was installed many years ago, then it is most likely that it was installed on cement mortar. In this case, it is unlikely that it will be possible to keep it whole, especially if the drain is fixed oil paint with rags or cement coating. The easiest way to start is with the drain neck. Hit the neck with a short hard blow, it will split and detach from the sewer pipe. You can not hit the sewer, cast iron is a very brittle metal, it can crack or split, adding additional problems.

Toilet demolition work

Use a chisel and hammer to beat off the cement mortar at the base of the toilet. Try to swing the device, then tilt the toilet back, drain the water from it into the sewer. Make sure that the fragments do not fall into the sewer pipe. Now, using a screwdriver, carefully clean the neck of the sewer pipe from a solution of other dirt and insert the adapter eccentric collar previously well lubricated with sanitary sealant. We plug the hole with a rag so that the dangerous and unpleasant smell of sewer gases does not spoil your mood and health.

Installation: anchors or dowels

Mounting on dowels involves installing the product on the bathroom floor without laying any taffeta-type lining under its base. Modern toilet bowls are produced with mounting holes in the base, therefore this method installation is the most practical and most commonly used. After leveling the floor or laying tiles, you must perform the following steps:

• using plumbing grease, we put on an eccentric cuff to release the toilet bowl, push the toilet bowl to the intended place, while inserting the cuff into the adapter. Turn the cuff to set the toilet straight. With a marker or pencil inserted into the mounting hole, mark the attachment points and the contour of the bowl;

Stages of installing a toilet bowl on dowels

• disconnect the toilet from the adapter and move it away. We drill holes for the dowel with a drill. Please note, if the holes in the fixing ears of the toilet bowl are oblique, then we drill a hole for the dowel also at an angle. We hammer dowels;
• install the toilet according to the marks, connect it to the sewer. We put a plastic sleeve (or rubber washer) on the screws and bait a little on the dowels;
• we set the bowl according to the level, if the base is not even, then place pieces of rubber or sheet plastic, and then tighten the screws to the end. Do not be too zealous so as not to split the ceramics. We put a plastic plug on top of the bolt. Cover the gap with silicone sealant, remove excess silicone with wet fingers.

Advice. It is better to try on a toilet bowl with a cistern, and installation without a tank.

Installation on taffeta

Installing a toilet on taffeta was previously considered the accepted method of installation. We will not recommend it, since the toilet bowl installed in this way loosens over time. The reason for this is the moisture that gets on wooden surface. The board is laid in the floor on a level with the surface and fixed with anchors. The remaining space is filled cement mortar and after complete hardening of the mixture proceed to installation. The installation process is the same as the installation with dowels, only the toilet mounting ears are screwed to the board with self-tapping screws, having previously placed rubber washers under the heads.

Installing a toilet bowl on taffeta

Epoxy installation

If there are no mounting ears at the base of the toilet model, then such a device is attached to the adhesive joint. This option is suitable for devices in which the cistern is mounted on the wall without resting on the toilet bowl or a faucet is used instead of the cistern. After trying on and applying a contour mark, the surfaces to be glued are lightly treated with sandpaper or corundum stone to roughen them, and then degreased with a solvent. Then, epoxy adhesive is applied to the dry surface of the floor with a layer of 4-5 mm and the toilet is pressed with force. After the adhesive has completely cured, you can use the device.

Epoxy installation

Advice. Use gloves to protect your hands when handling epoxy.

Suspension installation system

To install a wall-hung toilet, you will need a special frame with a flush tank, which is equipped with a drain mechanism and sheathed with insulating material to absorb noise and prevent condensation. Usually this design is bought separately from the toilet. The frame is attached to the wall with anchors, and a toilet bowl is hung on it. Communications are hidden inside the frame, which is subsequently sheathed with moisture-resistant drywall and lined. The drain button is mounted in the wall on the front panel of the tank.

Suspension installation system

Connecting the cistern to the toilet bowl and plumbing

After the toilet is installed, it is necessary to hoist a drain tank on it. We collect the internal filling according to the instructions. We put a gasket on the bowl (it can have a different shape) and fix the tank to the bowl so that it does not move relative to its place. You can glue it to the bowl with silicone. The screws are tightened evenly. We connect a flexible hose from the tank to the water supply. On the threaded connections we wind the FUM tape for sealing. It will not be superfluous to install a shut-off valve on the water pipe.

Connecting the toilet bowl

If it is necessary to repair the product, the tap will allow you to locally shut off the water supply. It remains to test the tightness and quality of the system. Shifting the float up or down allows you to adjust the level of filling with water in the drain tank. We fill the tank with water several times and drain it. The absence of leaks and trouble-free operation of the device indicates that the installation was successful. The finishing touch will be the installation of a toilet seat, which after all the work done will be a mere trifle for you.

Toilet Installation Lesson: Video

How to install a toilet: photo

Is it possible to connect the toilet to the sewer on my own without involving plumbers? Special skills are not required to perform such work, therefore, after familiarizing yourself with the basic installation rules, you can start working on your own. It is important to consider that technologically the process of installing a toilet bowl does not depend on which of the rooms it is placed in - in a bathhouse or in a house. Read more about the process in our article on floor toilets. If you have a hanging toilet, the article "" will come in handy.

What is needed for installation

The scheme for connecting the toilet to the sewer involves using eccentric or corrugated cuffs, plastic bends and fan pipes when connecting the toilet to the sewer pipeline. The appearance of the toilet with a vent pipe goes well with the toilet, which takes on the appearance of a complete plumbing fixture. However, it must be borne in mind that when installing a toilet bowl using fan pipes, there are a number of requirements:

• they cannot be cut;
• you can not change their geometric shape.

At the same time, when connecting the toilet with your own hands, you need to know that the corrugated cuffs can be bent at any angle and stretched along the length, and the eccentric cuffs can be rotated about their axis, compensating for the misalignment of the connected plastic pipes.

Pro tip:

A plus when making a connection using a corrugated cuff is the ability to connect the toilet in hard-to-reach places, as well as to the sewer, which is equipped with different receiving sockets.

Connecting the toilet with a corrugated pipe

The connection process technology is as follows:

1. The corrugation for connecting the toilet is inserted into the sewer pipe. The place of docking is lubricated with silicone.
2. The toilet bowl is connected to the second part of the corrugation, thus making its connection with the pipe. Check the reliability of the connection - they collect a tank of water or pour a bucket and pour it into the toilet. During the check, carefully observe if there are any leaks.

1. Drilling locations are determined in order to fasten the toilet bowl with dowels to the floor.
2. The toilet is set aside and holes are drilled in the marked places.
3. Insert dowels.
4. Install the toilet in a stationary place and connect the corrugated pipe, lubricated from the inside with sealant. Connecting the toilet to the riser is accompanied by checking the reliability of the connection. If there are no water leaks and the water passes normally, then fix all the fixing screws that were included with the toilet.

1. After fixing the toilet, you need to check its stability. If the toilet bowl, after a person sits on it, is subject to swing, then it is necessary to dismantle it and make a cement screed under the device.
2. The installation of the toilet is completed by sealing the place of its joining with the tile using sealant or silicone.

Connecting a toilet without using corrugations: basic rules

If you decide not to use the corrugation, you will need the basic rules by which it is connected in this case:

1. If the toilet is connected without a corrugation, then it is necessary to use a pipe, which is also called an adapter or a fan pipe. The connection to the adapter in this case is carried out differently depending on the angle that the toilet has. There are 3 options for this:

• connecting a toilet with an oblique outlet - it is installed on the floor - such an installation is no longer relevant, although it was used very widely in the last century;
• if the outlet of the toilet bowl is vertical, then the installation is carried out at an angle of 90º into the wall;
• if the outlet of the toilet bowl is horizontal, then the installation is carried out into the wall at an angle of 30-40º.

1. In the event that the outlet of the toilet bowl does not correspond to the outlet of the sewer network, then you will either have to choose a different model of the toilet bowl, or use curved adapter pipes at a certain angle.

Now consider in detail the features of the installation of plumbing of each type.

Toilets with vertical outlet

Such models are widely used in European countries. This is largely due to the fact that such plumbing fixtures have a downward-facing outlet and a siphon located in the toilet bowl. This design allows you to put the toilet against the wall at any angle. Installation is simple:

1. after marking, a standard screw flange equipped with a lock is installed on the floor;
2. in located in the center of the flange round hole install a sewer pipe;
3. a toilet bowl is mounted on the flange, rotated until it is fully fixed; the outlet pipe, which has a special sealing ring, while the pipe is automatically pressed against the end of the sewer pipe.

Toilet with horizontal outlet

Connecting a toilet with a horizontal outlet (it also has the name of a toilet with a “wall outlet”) is most relevant for the conditions of our country at the present time, which is associated with the attachment of the bathroom to a specific wall in the bathroom due to the specifics of the pipe layout sewer system in typical Russian houses. Since the outlet of the toilet in this case is directed backwards, it is located in the rear of the bathroom. In this case, the outlet pipe is connected to the sewer pipe using a special sealing cuff.

Particular attention should be paid to fixing the toilet bowl to the floor. As a rule, the legs of the toilet bowl with a horizontal outlet are equipped with special holes that are designed to fix the device to the floor.

Pro tip:

Connecting a direct outlet toilet begins with installation, using dowels and screws. Fastening must be carried out carefully, as if the screw is pulled too hard, the surface of the toilet bowl can be damaged.

Installation of a toilet equipped with an oblique outlet

The installation technology for this type of toilet is as follows:

1. Before you properly connect the toilet to the sewer, the outlet of the toilet bowl with the grooves located on it is lubricated with red lead mixed with drying oil.
2. A resin strand is wound on top. At the same time, the end of the 0.5 cm process must remain free (otherwise the ends of the strand will fall into the hole and contribute to clogging).
3. The wrapped strand is also carefully lubricated with red lead.
4. Next, the toilet bowl is installed, fixing the outlet process into the socket of the sewer pipe.

Thus, we examined how to connect a toilet bowl drain of various configurations to a sewer pipe. Thanks to the information received, the installation itself is realistically feasible. Plus, you can save money. However, if you feel that your existing skills are not enough to perform such work, it will still be more economical to use the services of professionals.

Having understood the toilet installation technology, you can save on plumbing services and do the job as efficiently as possible. The toilet can be mounted in the traditional way or more modern method- with installation. In the second case, the drain tank will be hidden in the wall, which will favorably affect the interior of the room.

You are provided with instructions on how to complete each of the listed installation options.

	H	h	h1	L	l	l1	B	b
With one-piece molded shelf, mm	370 and 400	320 and 350	150	Not less than 605	330	435	340 and 360	260
Without one-piece molded shelf, mm	370 and 400	320 and 350	150	460	330	435	340 and 360	260
Baby	335	285	130	405	280	380	290	210

Work set

1. Perforator.
2. Roulette.
3. Wrench.
4. Fan pipe.
5. Flexible hose.
6. FUM tape.
7. Fasteners.
8. Sealant.

In the case of installing a toilet bowl on the installation, the listed list will expand with the corresponding set. Everything you need is bought at any plumbing store.

Dismantling the old toilet

First step . Shut off the water supply and drain all the liquid.

Second step. We unscrew the hose through which the tank is connected to the water supply.

Third step. We unscrew the fasteners of the tank. If they are rusty, we arm ourselves with a screwdriver or open-end wrench. We press the bolt head with the selected tool and unscrew the nut with an adjustable wrench. If it doesn’t work, pre-soak the nut with kerosene. We remove the tank.

Fourth step. Dismantling the toilet bowl.

Fifth step. Disconnect the toilet drain from the sewer.

In old buildings, plums are usually fixed with cement plaster. To destroy it, use a hammer and a chisel. We need to prick the cement and gently shake the toilet to the sides. The drain should turn and loosen. We tilt the product, allowing the remaining water to drain into the sewer.

If the toilet had an outlet to the floor, you need to clean off the wax ring

Sixth step. We close the sewer hole with a wooden or other suitable plug.

Important! Sewer gases do not have the most pleasant smell. However, they are poisonous and highly flammable. Be sure to keep this in mind as you work.

Getting ready to install

The base for the installation of the toilet must be level. There are several options for the development of events, namely:

• if the floor is tiled and does not have level differences, we do not carry out any preliminary measures to level the base;
• if the floor is tiled and not even, install the toilet with chopsticks. To do this, holes are drilled in the floor, chopsticks are hammered into them according to the level, and after that the toilet bowl is attached to the chopsticks with screws;
• if a tile replacement is planned, we dismantle the old cladding and fill in a new screed, if the old one has level differences;
• if the toilet is installed in a new house or apartment without any finishing, we fill in the screed and lay the tiles.

We pay attention to pipes. Sewer from debris and various deposits, we install a tap on the water supply (if it was absent before) to shut off the water supply to the tank.

How to install a conventional toilet

As a rule, when selling, the toilet bowl and the tank are disconnected. The internal fittings of the barrel are most often already assembled, which greatly simplifies the installation process.

First step. We put the toilet bowl in its place and make marks at the attachment points.

Marks on the floor for fasteners

Second step. We remove the toilet bowl and drill mounting holes in the marked places.

Third step. We drive the dowels into the mounting holes.

Fourth step. Installing the bowl. We insert fasteners through special sealing gaskets. Tighten fasteners. You should not pull too hard - you can damage either the fasteners or even the toilet itself. We pull until the sanitary ware is firmly attached to the surface. From above we close the fasteners with plugs.

Fifth step. We mount the cover and seat. The manual for their assembly usually comes with the toilet, so we will not dwell on this event separately.

Sixth step. We connect the toilet to the sewer. The procedure depends on how the toilet outlet is connected.

Video - Installing a Compact toilet with wall outlet

Prices for accessories for toilets and urinals

Accessories for toilet bowls and urinals

If the release is done into the wall, we work like this:

If the release to the floor is being arranged, we do the following:

Useful advice! If the toilet bowl is connected to the drain pipe using a corrugation, sealing can be abandoned in most cases, because. the design of such an adapter hose is itself able to provide a sufficiently tight fit.

Seventh step. We carry out the installation of the tank. Drain mechanisms are usually sold already assembled. If the mechanism is disassembled, reassemble it according to the manufacturer's instructions (assembly order for different models may vary slightly).

We take the gasket from the kit and install it in the water hole in our toilet. Install the tank on the gasket and tighten the bolts.

Fasteners are most conveniently installed like this:

Eighth step. We connect the tank to the water supply using a flexible hose. We turn on the water supply and check the quality of the system. If it digs somewhere, tighten the nuts a little. The level of filling the tank with water is adjustable by moving the float lower or higher.

We let the tank fill several times and drain the water. If everything is fine, we take the toilet into permanent operation.

Modern version installation. A special wall installation is used, in which the mechanism of the tank is hidden. As a result, only the toilet bowl and the drain button remain visible.

We mount a wall-mounted toilet for installation

Video - How to install a wall-mounted toilet on a Geberit Doufix installation

The first stage is the installation of the frame

We carry out the installation of a metal frame with fasteners. We attach the tank to the frame. The position of the frame is adjustable with brackets at the top and screws at the bottom. Frames are sold separately, have the same structure and are suitable for use in combination with any toilet.

The assembled structure will have a height of about 1.3-1.4 m. The width should exceed the width of the tank.

The second stage - we hang the tank

We perform the installation in compliance with the following recommendations:

• we place the drain button at about a meter distance from the floor;
• between the attachment points we maintain a step equal to the distance between the eyes of our toilet bowl;
• the drain pipe should be located at a height of about 220-230 mm;
• we hang the wall-mounted toilet at a distance of 400-430 mm from the floor. These are average values. In general, focus on the growth of future users;
• between the drain tank and the wall we maintain no more than 15 mm distance.

The third stage - we mount the finished installation

We first check the evenness of the wall with a plumb line. When deviations are found, do the following:

The fourth stage - install the tank

First we connect the tank. The drain may have top and side outlets. Almost all modern models receptacles allow you to choose between these two options.

Important! When installing the toilet on the installation, it is better to refrain from connecting the tank with a flexible hose. will last much longer than a hose. Would you like to destroy the frame skin in the near future for the sake of a five-minute replacement of such a hose? That's it!

The best way to connect is to use plastic pipes. All necessary fasteners usually come with the tank. Separately, you have to buy only a panel for the drain buttons, and even then not always.

We connect the release of our toilet bowl with the sewer. The most convenient way to do this is with a corrugation. We check the tightness of the structure. If everything is fine, turn off the water, temporarily turn off the toilet from the drain and remove the bowl to the side.

Important! The procedure for connecting the cistern to the toilet and plumbing may vary depending on the model of the product. We clarify these points in a separate order and follow the manufacturer's instructions.

Fifth stage - we sheathe the installation

To do this, we use moisture-resistant drywall with a thickness of 10 mm. It is recommended to fix it with a double layer. First we do the following:

• we screw the pins for hanging the toilet into the frame (they are included in the kit);
• close the drain holes with plugs (also from the kit) so that they are not clogged with dust and debris;
• we make holes in drywall for pins, pipes and a drain button.

We fasten the sheathing sheets to the frame with the help of special self-tapping screws. Keep the fastening step at the level of 30-40 cm. The design will be small in size and weight, so there are no strict recommendations regarding the distance between the fasteners.

We tile drywall with tiles or finish it in another way at our discretion.

Useful advice! Before starting to tile the box with tiles, we install a plug and a cuff in the place of the future location of the drain button. They are usually included in the kit.

Video - Installing a hanging toilet

Stage six - install the toilet

To do this, we connect the outlet of the bowl to the sewer hole and hang the product on the pins (we installed them in the previous stages of work). You can follow these steps in reverse order, whichever is more convenient for you. Tighten the fixing nuts.

Important! Previously, the tile that will come into contact with must be covered with a layer of silicone sealant (you can install a gasket instead).

You can turn on the water supply and use the toilet for its intended purpose.

The assembly instructions for the installation remain the same. Only the order of installation of the toilet bowl changes. Work in the following order.

First step. Lock your knee firmly. Metal fasteners will help you with this.

Second step. Treat the toilet outlet with technical ointment.

Third step. Install the toilet in the place intended for it. Circle the outline of the sanitary ware and mark the holes for the fasteners.

Fourth step. Remove the toilet and install the mounting brackets from the kit according to the marking.

Fifth step. Install the bowl, press its outlet into the vent pipe and secure the sanitary ware with the bolts or other fasteners included in the kit.

Sixth step. Connect the tank to the drain. Installation and connection of this element is carried out in the same way as in the case of mounting a wall-mounted toilet model.

Seventh step. We bring the drain button into a pre-prepared hole in the casing, turn on the water supply and check the operation of the toilet bowl. If everything is fine, we accept the product for permanent operation.

Read our new article- and also find out what varieties there are, how to choose and install.

Video - Installing an attached toilet with a hidden cistern

Successful work!

Video - Do-it-yourself toilet installation