This garden chair is of the simplest design and just as easy to make with your own hands, which is quite suitable for a first experience even for a person who is not experienced in carpentry. Clear drawings with dimensions, simple materials, possibly remaining after construction works, and ordinary tools will help you make such a chair in just 2-3 hours. Following a simple instruction, you just need to cut the required number of elements to size, mark and drill holes, and then assemble them as a constructor into a single whole.

Now let's get started and get ready to work. the right materials and tools.

Instruments

1. Circular or miter saw (a hacksaw is also suitable).
2. Electric planer (if you use non-planed boards).
3. Drill or screwdriver (with drills and bits).
4. Measuring tool (tape measure and corner with a protractor for measuring angles).
5. Wrench.
6. Pencil.
7. Paint brush.

   materials

   1. Edged board:
      90x45 mm (6.6 meters) and
      90x20 mm (6 meters).
   2. Furniture screws (dowel-head galvanized or chemical-coated against rust):
      M10 100-110 mm - 10 pcs.
   3. Self-tapping screws:
      40 pcs. with a pot-head 4.5x60-75 mm for fastening elements of the backrest, armrests and seat of the garden chair.
   4. Abrasive sandpaper with grain P40-60, for cleaning corners and splinters. Ideally, apply with a grinder or drill attachment.
   5. Protective impregnation for wood or stain with varnish.

      Further, in the drawings below, the size of the board for the manufacture of a garden chair is optimal, i.e. for example, if you take a standard edged board 100x50 mm, then process it with a planer and get approximately optimal size 95-90x45 mm or something like that. I think that here a few millimeters plus or minus will not play a big role. After all, we are not building a submarine, so there is no need to be afraid, feel free to take a tool and start working!

      And drawings to help you, all dimensions given are in millimeters.

      Drawing 1. Elements of a chair from a board 90x45 mm.

      

      Drawing 2. Elements of a chair from a board 90x20 mm (inch).

      

      Drawing 3. Elements of the chair assembly (sidewall).

      

      Chair assembly

      1. To begin with, we will file all the elements of the garden chair and drill holes in them in size, with a drill with a diameter of 10 mm.

      2. Now you need to process them with abrasive paper to avoid further minor injuries and splinters.

      3. We collect two sidewalls of the chair, which, in principle, are a mirror image of each other.

      

      4. We fix all the elements with bolts, washers and M10 nuts. It is better to use furniture bolts with a flat head.

      

      6. Now it remains to apply a layer of impregnation, paint or stain with varnish. Don't forget about intermediate drying.
      The chair is ready!

      Agree, nothing complicated. You should end up with a pretty nice garden chair.
      If you make this chair complete with such a garden bench, you can get a very interesting combination.
      See photo below various options performance of this chair from different authors, maybe you will come interesting idea how to add some flair to this simple design.

      Here is such an interesting interpretation of a garden chair with vertical elements of the back along with a small table.

      

      

      A very original modification of the author is to add additional slats to the seat and back of the chair, as well as a footrest, which at the same time serves as an additional amplifier. The armchair is stained and varnished on top.

      

      Send your creations to me by mail or leave in the comments, and they will be published.

The summer cottage serves not only for growing vegetables and fruits, but also for a good outdoor recreation. This is best done in a luxurious and reliable armchair made by yourself. We will talk about how to make it, what materials, tools and knowledge will be needed below in the article.

If you like to tinker with wooden crafts, it will not suit you to install standard plastic chairs on your own site. They not only do not fit into the natural atmosphere of the kingdom of plants and flowers, but also unreliable.

In addition, their design does not always contribute to a good rest. Therefore, in this case, we offer you a simple model of a wooden garden chair that will organically fit into the landscape. suburban area. You do not need special skills, as in forging or welding metal products, although knowledge of carpentry is desirable.

Requirements for country wooden furniture

Special conditions of use require that the design meet certain parameters. Then it will last long enough in the original version.

Let's consider them in more detail:

1. Immediately count on the fact that the chair needs to be made transportable, then in case of bad weather you can quickly hide it under. Of course, special antiseptics and paints used to protect wood will allow the structure to withstand atmospheric influences, but we advise you not to test it in such cases.
2. Choose for garden furniture hardwood, among which are oak, beech and walnut. Although the price of such materials is higher, the quality of the construction will be excellent. Aspen, larch, cedar and pine are also little susceptible to decay, but the disadvantage of the latter is sensitivity to impact. Even a small one is enough for a dent to appear on the chair, which then will not be easy to remove.

1. Particular attention should be paid to the protection of the material from atmospheric influence . This is due to the fact that it can be exposed to sunlight for a long time, it often falls under heavy rain, so you need to protect it from such tests.
   Preparation for protection begins at the stage of harvesting wood for the manufacture of furniture. Fold the boards under a canopy in a pile, press it heavy on top and leave to dry, it’s very good if you could buy dry and high-quality lumber right away.
   In the process of work, the blanks must be sanded, impregnated with an antiseptic, and then with hot drying oil. At the next stage, dry them, and varnish them for outdoor use.

1. The relief of the texture and the decorative cut of the tree will depend on the number of undeveloped branches and knots, i.e. the more, the better. Such a polished surface may resemble strolling grape snails.

Tip: when assembling a wooden chair for a summer residence, fasteners should be sunk into the material, then you will avoid puffs on clothes and scratches.

How to prepare for work

First of all, it is necessary to pre-assemble all the tools that you may need, as well as the material. In our case, all the blanks, with the exception of the insert strips, will be cut out of a cedar board, the thickness of which should be at least 20 mm.

Details	Dimensions are in mm: Legs: rear - 2 pcs. (20x254x787); front - 2 pcs., (20x76x533). Back - 1 pc., (20x279x914). Armrest: support - 2 pcs., (20x127x406); rear support - 1 pc., (20x76x610). Jumper - 1 pc., (20x51x589). Insert strips - 2 pcs., (12x20x254).
Material	Dowel (24x60 mm) made of hard wood - 30 pcs.; Brass screws - 4.5x50 mm and 4.5x32 mm, 20 pcs.; Sandpaper No. 220; polyurethane adhesive; Furniture varnish; drying oil; masking tape; Stencil cardboard.
Instruments	Circular Saw; Plane; Manual frezer; Hacksaw for wood; Screwdriver; Drill; A grinder, although you can do without it; clamps; Ruler, tape measure, pencil.

Manufacturing process

Preliminary stage - cutting the main elements

Let's start by cutting out the details. For this we will prepare detailed drawing, so it will be easier for us to continue manufacturing the chair.

Prepare the parts that will later become the rear legs and back. To do this, try to carry out all the work based on a detailed drawing with explanations, where there are appropriate tips. After consulting with it, mark and cut the desired blanks.

Cut the back legs, backs, seats and armrests from wide panels.

Get them by gluing boards that you need to match the color and texture of the wood.

Tip: Select the slots for the keys in advance, positioning them so that they are invisible after the cutting is completed.

1. Cut out the back legs using a cardboard stencil. Attach the template to the blank that will be used as the leg, and circle it with a pencil. Connect and pull together two blanks masking tape so that you can cut both at the same time.
   Carry out cutting with a small margin. To fit parts to size, use a milling cutter or planer.

1. Cut out the back. To do this, cut the workpiece in such a way that the glue line is exactly in the middle between the boards. Bevel the bottom end of the backrest at a 12.5° angle to match the profile of the rear legs. Round the top edge with a 9mm radius.

Having finished these works, you can start assembling the product, for this you will need to cut and fit other parts in place.

We continue to work

Below are instructions for assembling and cutting the rest of the elements.

Back and rear legs

1. Drill holes for fasteners in advance so that the workpieces do not crack.
2. Use screws (50 mm) and glue to fasten the rear legs to the backrest.
3. Connect the side ends of the backrest to the legs at an angle of 12.5°.
4. Close the gaps between the parts with insert strips by making them of the appropriate profile. The ends of the slats and the opposite ends of the legs must match, which will indicate the correct position of the back.
5. Screw the inserts to the back with screws (l = 50 mm).

Tip: keep in mind that the strength of the seat will depend on the location of the boards that should be placed from one leg to another.

1. Take a circular saw and cut the piece to width.
2. Mark the sides of the seat, which are angled.
3. File the workpiece from the sides along the outer marking line. You can not yet clean the raw ends.
4. Select a groove on the back end of the workpiece, the bottom of which is tilted at an angle of 12.5 °. This must be done because the seat will be at an angle to the back. In this case, the joint will turn out to be dense, which is what we need.
5. Round the front end of the seat.
6. Screw the seat to the legs, sand its side edges, fit them flush with the rear leg plate.

Seat

front legs

1. Cut out the front legs by beveling their top and bottom edges 6˚.
2. Screw them to the rear using screws (l = 32 mm), reinforcing the connection with glue.
3. Make a proleg - a jumper between the legs, so that the garden chair gets additional reliability and stability.
   You need to cut it to size:

• attach the workpiece to the front legs and mark the fixing grooves. In this case, make the bottom of the groove at an angle of 12.5 ° to the plate;
• select to a depth of 9 mm from the high side of the groove;
• attach the jumper to the front ends of the legs using glue and screws (l = 32 mm).

armrests

1. Saw out wedge-shaped supports for them, beveling their top edges by 6 °.
2. Screw the supports to the front legs using glue and screws (l = 32 mm).
3. Cut out the armrests as well as the back support for them.
4. Clean the ends of the parts with sandpaper.
5. Cut the ends of the support at an angle of 30°, the top edge at 31.5°.
6. Press the rear support piece against the back with clamps.
7. Replace the armrests and loosen the clamps.
8. Level the position of the rear support element, achieving a strict horizontal armrests.
9. Tighten the clamps and screw the rear support to the backrest.
10. Screw the armrests to the rear support, then to the wedge supports, and then to the front legs, using glue and screws (l = 50 mm).

Close the recessed screw heads with wooden plugs and grind them flush. Take hot drying oil and saturate the wood with it, dry the product and varnish it. You will end up with a comfortable classic design with a beautiful texture that will be appreciated by your family.

Output

Wooden chair for suburban area, made independently, will add the necessary flavor. The main thing to remember is that it is necessary to protect the structure from atmospheric influences so that it lasts for a long time. Only familiar tools and materials will be used in the work. The video in this article will help you find Additional information on this topic.

All photos from the article

The cost of massive furniture is quite high, because many owners country houses and dachas make wooden chairs with their own hands. Having at hand a modern tool and a charge of healthy enthusiasm, any man will cope with this task without any problems. We'll show you how to build wooden chair to give their own hands.

Armchair for summer cottage made of wood

Peculiarities

Wood - best material for making furniture. Despite a number of shortcomings that this material has, we have nothing better.

We chose wood for a whole range of qualities that, in our opinion, are ideal for do-it-yourself work in a summer cottage:

• Wood raw materials are very malleable for processing with primitive tools: drilling, punching with nails and self-tapping screws, grinding, milling, etc. We have to do manual work simple means, so this moment is extremely important;
• Lumber is available almost anywhere in our country. Board and timber are widely represented on store shelves, and their price is relatively low;
• The material is completely natural and does not contain harmful impurities, does not emit toxins and volatile toxic chemicals;
• Boards and beams emit a pleasant smell, and coniferous parts do this especially actively;
• The texture and color of the surfaces are distinguished by their unique beauty, which is the best suited for the countryside atmosphere.

Important!
The listed set of qualities makes wood the most suitable material for the manufacture of a country chair.

It should be remembered that the product will be operated in conditions close to extreme. It will be exposed to rain, the sun will shine on it, it will be surrounded by insects, bacteria and fungal spores. Therefore, special attention should be paid to the choice of breed, finishing and processing of parts with an antiseptic.

The most suitable species in our case are oak, beech, ash, larch and pine. For parts that will not experience increased loads, you can use linden or alder.

Important!
All wooden parts must be impregnated with an antiseptic complex, and then painted or varnished.

Model selection

There are so many possible options for choosing a chair model that we see no reason to consider them in detail within the framework of the article.

It can be:

• folding and stationary models;
• rocking chairs;
• single and double;
• children and adults;
• high and low structures.

We will just give a few tips.

You must keep in mind two basic rules:

1. Choose those models whose design is completely clear to you. You must imagine in advance what and how you will do, what tools to work with and whether you can master this or that detail;
2. Consider the features of the place where the item will be used. A rocking chair or a folding model is perfect for giving, by the way, you can find drawings of a wooden folding chair with your own hands on our website.

Important!
Choose simple and reliable models that you can definitely make.
Consider the features of their operation.

Chair making

So, we will make the model presented in the photo at the beginning of the section. It consists of two sides, three sides and 35 cross rails that will form the seating surface.

The hardest part is cutting out the sidewalls. We will present a cutting on a metric grid with a step of 100 mm, according to which you can make a template and transfer the drawing to a sheet, from which you can then cut it out.

Garden furniture is one of the tools to create additional comfort in the area near the house. Gone are the days when a hammock stretched between two trees, which are already 20 years old and have grown so much that they can withstand a person, was considered the height of luxury. Following him, a street shop became a frequent occurrence, and then sofas, armchairs, even beds.

Peculiarities

The simplest garden furniture is street benches used in parks and squares. However, summer residents and gardeners often make chairs, benches, benches oriented to use in the garden, and not just on the veranda or in the gazebo.

Do-it-yourself country furniture is much more durable than bought in furniture stores. In order to save money, furniture items are often made of chipboard, somehow protected from moisture with a film-adhesive layer. Sometimes wood dust with plastic is used - waste from other industries as lumber. Both materials are diluted with epoxy resin or glue - this is how they cast, for example, interior doors. It is not a problem to establish the production of similar furniture for summer cottages: the slats and boards cast in this way have longitudinal voids inside, and in the section we see a box-shaped profile.

However, a natural tree, being well dried and impregnated with a bioprotective composition (against microbes, fungi, mold), covered with a waterproof varnish that can last for years even in heat, frost and dampness, will last at least several decades.

An example is all the same Soviet shops installed in city parks back in the 70s of the last century, which are still preserved in some places. There are no special secrets to their durability. These benches were painted every two years with outdoor paint. It is resistant to fading in conditions of annual temperature difference, moisture and ultraviolet radiation.

Finally, making garden furniture - testing the skills of a real owner. If you are a jack of all trades, then you can make a chair, having, for example, a dozen large scraps of wood after replacing the floor in the rooms.

Schemes and drawings

In the manufacture of garden furniture the following sizing guidelines must be followed.

1. The dimensions of stainless steel screws are 51 * 8 (you can use similar ones).
2. Dovetail socket, in which the armrests rest on the front and rear legs - 10 * 19 * 102 mm.
3. On the edges of all parts, a chamfer of 3 mm is removed.
4. The hole, into the center of which the self-tapping screw is screwed, expands to 19 mm at the surface of the part, turning into a narrow part is deepened to 5-10 mm. It will be easier to tighten the screws and varnish these places (if plugs are not used).
5. Rear legs: 2 pieces 20*254*787 mm. Front - 20 * 76 * 533 mm.
6. Chair back: 20*279*914 mm.
7. Armrest supports: 2 front 20 * 127 * 406 mm, rear 20 * 76 * 610 mm.
8. Jumper: 20*51*589 mm.
9. Insert strips: 2 pieces of 12*20*254 mm.

Different design options - folding or conventional, differ in the size of the parts. The chair must be reliable, not break and not be crushed under tens of kilograms of weight, falling on a significant part of the body weight of a person of large dimensions.

Tools and materials

Having created a drawing, prepare the tools: a circular saw, a planer, a milling machine, a wood saw, a screwdriver or a universal screwdriver with bits, a drill, a grinder or a grinder, clamps, a measuring tape and a pencil.

Self-tapping screws are used from stainless steel or brass.

The following types of wood are used as the basis:

• acacia - stronger than oak, but difficult to process;
• teak is a tropical tree that is resistant to mold, microbes and fungus, but blackens without varnish protection;
• beech and larch - resistant to moisture and temperature fluctuations, ultraviolet;
• oak is the most durable tree;
• cedar is easy to process and no less durable than acacia.

Epoxy is the best adhesive. A waterproof varnish is also required. The tree can be different - timber, plain or tongue-and-groove board.

How to do it yourself

The most popular garden chair model is the adirondack., named after a mountain range in North America. The master who lived there developed this design at the beginning of the 20th century.

To make it, sort the boards to be processed. Their thickness must be at least 2 cm. Before marking, they must be located side by side.

Preparation of parts begins with markup.

Based on the drawing, make a cardboard stencil. Draw boards on it. Saw out parts for the rear legs, seat and back using the milling machine from the widest boards.

At the end of the sawing work, assemble the back and rear legs.

1. Drill holes for the screws in the parts. The drill should be 1-2 mm smaller in diameter than self-tapping screws. Screwing in self-tapping screws without drilling out parts will lead to cracks - the tips of the screws push the wood fibers apart.
2. Clean all mating surfaces with a grinder, file, sandpaper or wire brush. The fact is that rough surfaces stick together better; smooth ones can slip out, no matter what glue you use.
3. Dilute required amount epoxy glue. It freezes within 1.5 hours. Prepare all parts and fasteners before assembly. If the master is a beginner, then there is no need to rush here: "get your hand" on repetitive actions.
4. Attach the rear legs to the backrest. Their side ends should meet with the back at an angle of 12.5 degrees.
5. Close the gaps between the parts with special inserts from the same wood. They are cut with a circular saw.
6. Attach the inserts to the back.
7. Mark the side edges of the seat. They should be located at a certain angle to each other.
8. Focusing on the outer cut line, saw through the corresponding part on the sides. Select a groove on the back end of the product and round off the front edge of the seat.
9. Attach the seat to the legs, after smoothing their side edges.
10. Connect the front legs to the back.
11. Mark and saw out the grooves at the junctions of the legs with jumpers. The depth of the groove must be at least 9 cm.
12. Insert jumpers between the legs - they will not allow the chair to stagger in different directions. Fix them.
13. Wedge-shaped supports, prepared in advance, attach to the front legs.
14. Attach the armrests and the back support for them to each other, clamp them with clamps.
15. Insert the armrests into their seats. Screw them to the rear legs and remove the clamps.

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How to make a garden chair: drawing and detailed description assembly

Have you decided to buy a plastic chair or a wicker rattan lounger for your summer cottage? Do not rush to spend money, because simple and at the same time comfortable furniture can be made of wood with your own hands. I propose a simple step by step instructions self assembly armchairs from wooden planks. But first, let's decide what kind of furniture you would like to see in your summer cottage.

Requirements for country wooden furniture

In order to decide what country chairs should be, imagine in what conditions and for what purpose this furniture is used.

The country chair is a design with a seat, a back and armrests. If skids are attached to the supports, it will be possible to swing on the chair. Country chairs are used for a short rest as in the very country house, and near it.

The operating conditions can be described as difficult, since most of the time the furniture is used outdoors.

So, what qualities should distinguish country furniture?

• Durability. Furniture should last as long as possible, despite precipitation, direct sunlight and other environmental factors.
• Simplicity and convenience of operation. Furniture should be easy to carry so that if necessary, it can be taken out of the house and then brought back. Ideally, furniture should be laid out at all.
• low cost. The chair should be inexpensive, and preferably generally made with your own hands from available materials.
• Aesthetic appeal. The chair, which will be used in the country, should decorate the interior and exterior with its appearance. country house.

How to prepare for work

First, select a drawing. If furniture is being made for the first time, the simpler the drawing, the better. In our case, the drawing is simple, but the finished furniture will be beautiful, stable and durable.

After the drawing is ready, we count the amount of materials and purchase everything you need. In our case, a board with a section of 30 × 150 mm will be used to assemble the frame. For lining the seat and back, we use a board with a section of 25 × 100 mm. Wood screws 40 mm long will be used as fasteners.

Preliminary stage - cutting the main elements

In accordance with the drawing, we calculate the complete set of structural elements and cut the required number of parts from the board. For longitudinal and transverse cutting we use a circular saw. For a curved cut, we use an electric jigsaw.

After cutting along the cut line, small chips or, on the contrary, protruding fibers will be noticeable. In order not to remove these defects on the finished furniture upon completion of the assembly, immediately after cutting, go along the edge of the cut with sandpaper.

Manufacturing process

Illustrations	Assembly step by step
	How to screw in a screw? Almost all connections in the chair will be made using self-tapping screws, so you need to know how to screw them in correctly. Fastening of self-tapping screws is carried out with preliminary drilling of holes with a diameter of 2 mm. If you turn the self-tapping screw without pre-drilling holes, there is a risk of cracks. Under the head of the self-tapping screw, we drill a pot on the diameter of the head and a depth of 3 mm. The self-tapping screw is sunk into the recess below the surface of the board.
	front legs. We make two parts shown in the diagram. The lower part of the part will be the front leg of the chair, a crossbar will be attached to the central recess. The top part of the part will be the armrest holder.
	We combine the front supports into a single knot. In the central recesses on the front supports, we install a transverse crossbar 70 cm long. All connections are made with carpentry glue and reinforced with self-tapping screws, 2 pieces on each side of the crossbar.
	Attaching armrest holders. We attach the upper parts of the sidewalls 60 cm long to the front supports. We maintain a right angle between these two parts. Fastening is carried out on carpentry glue and on 4 self-tapping screws for each connection.
	rear legs. From the board we cut two parts, like those shown in the diagram. The length of the legs is 63 cm. The end of the legs is cut at an angle of 75° and 115° respectively.
	Rear leg attachment. We apply the rear supports outside the armrest holders so that the cut line coincides with their surface. The bottom end of the rear legs should be flush with the back edge of the armrest holder.
	Strengthening the rear legs. So that during operation the rear supports do not move apart to the sides, we install a transverse strut between them and tighten the entire assembly with self-tapping screws, 2 pieces on each side.
	seat holder. The seat upholstery will be attached to the horizontal brackets. The horizontal holders will be fixed with a straight edge to the front cross brace, and with a beveled end - to the previously installed rear cross brace.
	How to install seat holders. The diagram shows the location of the three seat holders and their distance from each other. Fastening of parts, as usual, is carried out with self-tapping screws.
	Back and rear legs. Pieces of the board 61 cm long are attached to the outer holders of the seat. The fastening must be done so that the end of the backrest holder is flush with the lower edge of the seat holders.
	Back upholstery. On top of the previously installed backrest holders, we fill the strips with a gap of 20 mm between adjacent planks.
	Seat. The seat slats are attached in the same way as the backrest slats.
	armrests. Pieces of the board 64 cm long are attached to the sidewalls, as shown in the diagram. Fastening is carried out using carpentry glue and self-tapping screws. We use at least 2-3 self-tapping screws for each armrest. The edges of the armrests in front of the chair are rounded.

We continue to work

After the assembly is completed and the chair is ready, it remains to complete Finishing work, as a result of which the furniture will become not only reliable, but also beautiful.

Since the assembly was carried out on self-tapping screws, recesses made under their heads remained on the surface of the tree. We fill the recesses with wood putty, matched to the tone of the boards. Putty is applied with a spatula and immediately leveled.

When working with putty, remember that such compounds are applied with a layer no thicker than 1-2 mm.

After the putty has completely dried, the wood surface is carefully sanded. For grinding, we use a grinder with replaceable skins. We use sandpaper variably, changing the abrasiveness from 400 to 800.

After the chair is sanded, we clean it of dust and impregnate it with drying oil in two layers with a break for the previous layer to dry. Impregnation is needed, firstly, in order to reduce paint consumption and secondly, in order to make the tree more resistant to decay. After the drying oil has completely dried, we apply a couple of layers of paint.

Can varnish be used? Since putty was used when working with lumber, spots will show through the varnish, therefore, in our case, the use of a continuous layer of paint is preferable.

The photo shows the finished result, which will look exactly the same if all the listed assembly steps were performed correctly in the order in which they are given in the instructions.

Summing up

It is not difficult to assemble a comfortable chair for a country house or summer cottage, and now you will definitely cope with this task. If you have any questions when assembling furniture, ask them in the comments to the article.

November 10, 2018

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