Is it possible to pinch gloxinia. If Gloxinia Dies, Don't Panic

In winter, many inexperienced flower growers despair because the flower has fallen ill. However, gloxinias “hibernate” already in the fall in order to wake up again in the spring and please the hostess of the house with their delicate velvet bells. As soon as this plant has faded, carefully remove dead shoots, leaving only a “stump”, and send the pot to rest, only occasionally sprinkling the soil so that the tuber does not dry out.

It is probably difficult to find a grower who would not like gloxinia. But, alas, not everyone manages to propagate them with the help of leaves. Why? The problem is that gloxinia leaves do not always take root quickly.

BREEDING

If you are an inexperienced flower grower, it is better to plant this flower with the help of seeds, experts of the Central Botanical Garden recommend. Prepare drainage in pots or bowls. Close the hole for water drainage in the container with a crock and fill the pot with a layer of pebbles to a third of the height. For sowing, sifted light earth is usually used, ideally leafy, to which a third of the washed sand is added.

The prepared soil mixture is well soaked before sowing. Large seeds are distributed on the surface in the grooves not too densely. Then they are covered with a thin layer of earth. Small seeds are not covered, but, scattered evenly over the surface of the earth, they are watered with water from a spray bottle. Seeds are sown in early February. The bowls are covered with glass and placed in a warm place. Occasionally, the glass is removed for ventilation. When shoots appear, bowls or pots are put on the window, removing the glass. Plants are accustomed to the sun gradually, within 2-3 days.

At the end of winter, be sure to transplant the sprouted tuber into fresh soil - the soil layer above the tuber should not exceed 1 cm. In order for the plant to be developed and bloom profusely, leave 1-2 of the most powerful shoots from the many sprouted shoots.

In order for gloxinia to please with their magnificent flowering, provide them with good lighting. Plants really need this. They are most comfortable on the southeast, south or southwest side. Get Healthy planting material or a healthy adult plant, a suitable soil mixture. Provide gloxinia dry wintering. Remember: these flowers cannot be sprayed with water, like all plants with pubescent leaves.

WATERING

When gloxinia grows, it is best to water the flower like this: put the pot in an empty container and carefully, trying not to fall on the leaves, water the plant from above so that the water passes through the pot and rises 1/2 of the height in the container. Take a five-minute break, and then take out the pot of gloxinia, put it on a pallet so that the water is glass. Be sure to remove excess water from the pan after watering. The next watering is carried out when the top layer of the earth dries.

Keep in mind that with excess moisture, gloxinia roots rot, leaves turn yellow, so do not fill the flower with water, and remove dust from the leaves with a soft brush.

LIGHTING

To prolong flowering in autumn, gloxinia should be illuminated with fluorescent or special lamps. The optimal length of daylight hours for this flower is 12-14 hours. Or you can resort to this method: after the flower reaches the age of four, it begins to bloom from May to September, during this period it is necessary to cut off those pedicels that have already faded.

FEEDING

From April to August, gloxinia needs to be fertilized with fertilizers for flowering indoor plants - they need to be carried out at intervals of 1 time per week. Experienced flower growers recommend using only half the dose indicated on the package.

DISEASES AND PESTS

Gloxinia, like other flowers, unfortunately, is susceptible to diseases and pest attacks. It is very important to prevent the development of diseases, because the plant can be affected by phytophthora, tuber rot, powdery mildew, etc. If gloxinia is unwell, Fundazol will be the salvation.

Ticks can also infect gloxinia. This is indicated by twisted and diseased leaves and disappearing flowers. Shoots in this case acquire Brown color their growth slows down. The plant must be treated with the drug three times within two weeks. "Fitoverm" or another remedy will help rid gloxinia of ticks and prevent the appearance of thrips and other pests.

If brown spots appear on the leaves, this means that too cold water was used for irrigation.

Yellowed leaves indicate that the plant was in the sun for a long time, was overfed with fertilizers, and its health was badly affected by the violation of air humidity.

What are the flowers talking about?

If houseplants are unwell, watch the leaves. Especially painfully green pets survive the winter. How to parse the language of flowers?

• If the leaves stop shining, this trouble can have three reasons: too much light, a spider mite has wound up, or ... you haven't washed the plants for a long time.

• Dots and spots appear? If they are dry, this is a signal of a lack of water. Wet? So, they overdid it with watering.

• If the affected areas look like a blister, the reason is the disease of the plant.

• Brown tips or leaf edges - dry air or leaf damage.

• Yellowish or brown leaf edge - waterlogging of the soil or a total lack of water, a violation temperature regime, you managed to overfeed the plant with minerals.

• The curling and falling of the leaves indicates that the plants simply do not have enough heat, that the soil is waterlogged, or the flower is standing in a draft.

• If the leaves turn yellow and fall off - sometimes this is a natural process, perhaps the soil was waterlogged or the flower “caught a cold” in a draft, because plants, like people, do not tolerate temperature changes.

HAVE A QUESTION

Grown in the fall from gloxinia seeds, some themselves went to rest in the winter, and the rest were very stretched out. Can they be cut back, or is it better to pinch them if they haven't bloomed yet?

Tamara Tabakina, Gomel

It is undesirable for gloxinia to grow long shoots - for this, starting from January, it is necessary to regularly check the pots with the plant. Put those of them where there are shoots in a bright place so that the young shoots are stocky. The regrown long stems of gloxinia can be left as is, peculiar ampelous gloxinia will grow from them. Alternatively, cut and root stem cuttings from long shoots, so you get new young gloxinia that can be grown in the first year and without a dormant period. Moderately long stems can also be pinched.

The most common defect in growing gloxinia is the development of a plant with a disheveled bush shape, consisting of elongated stems. The reason for this deficiency is a combination of two factors: insufficient illumination of the plant and the high temperature of its content. This combination of conditions of detention takes place in rooms with central heating in winter, when the tubers wake up.

Instead of a compact form of a plant, a “disarranged” will develop in the following cases:

• if, during improper storage, an unplanted tuber has developed etiolated thin shoots (very often such tubers are sold in garden centers);

• during vegetative propagation of gloxinia, when many young plants simultaneously develop from the cuttings.

Gloxinia will form a compact form if, from the moment of germination of tubers and until the beginning of the budding period, the plant is provided with the recommended temperature and light:

• temperature +(18-20) 0 С;

• lighting: in the period October / April - direct sunlight; in the period May / September - until 10-00 and after 17-00 direct sunlight, from 10-00 to 17-00 - diffused sunlight.

Correcting the shape of an elongated bush

To remedy the situation, after the first flowering, we cut off the aerial part of the “disheveled” plant. Next, we provide him with the recommended values ​​\u200b\u200bof temperature and lighting. When watering gloxinia, it must be borne in mind that the need for moisture in a plant without leaves is small. When new shoots appear above the soil surface, we carry out the first top dressing.

In late spring or early summer, after such a procedure, gloxinia will develop again, but with a compact aerial part.

In Brazil, in 1785, a new unfamiliar plant was discovered, at the base of which there was a rhizome with scales, and the shape of the flower resembled a bell. This plant was the first representative of a new genus, and was named gloxinia speckled , in honor of the naturalist from Strasbourg B.P. Gloksina. At the beginning of the 20th century, a plant was brought from Tropical America, very similar to a representative of the Gloxinia genus, but differed from the speckled Gloxinia by the presence of a tuber. However, both representatives united the structure and shape of the flower, which gave reason to attribute a new species to the genus Gloxinia - Gloxinia beautiful. It was she who, as a result of long breeding work, gave several dozen varieties of modern indoor gloxinia, amazing in their purity of color and shape of flowers. The size of the flowers in the new representatives of the Gloxinia splendid species increased almost 2.5 times compared to the parental form.

However, even in this case, botanists were not without confusion. In 1825, another genus of the plant was described, belonging to the Gesneriaceae family, which is common with gloxinia. Siningia had a clear difference from gloxinia - the presence of a tuber - and some difference in the structure of the flower. The genus was named in honor of the gardener of the botanical garden of the University of Bonn V. Sining.

Later, quick-witted botanists established themselves in the opinion that the species of beautiful gloxinia is more just, according to all signs and botanical laws, attributed to the genus syningia, which they hastened to do. However, by that time, gloxinia had become a widespread and beloved plant in indoor floriculture, and the old name was already firmly entrenched in it. Since the flowers are very similar in shape to bells, and in German Glocke means bell, amateurs have an undeniable opinion about the correct name of the genus - gloxinia. In floricultural literature, the most common species name gloxinia beautiful or gloxinia hybrid, although the birthright of the plant is rightfully attributed to the beautiful syningia. Only in the nomenclature of botanical reference books is Gloxinia beautiful officially called syningia beautiful.

Rooting leaves. Gloxinia leaf cuttings can be rooted at any time from spring to autumn, both before, during, and after flowering. It will not be superfluous to make a warning that young leaves grown in spring take root more easily and faster than old ones cut from the plant at the end of summer. Although both of them release the root system, both in the soil mixture and in the water. Cut leaves are simply dipped in a glass of water. To prevent the leaf blade from getting wet, it is recommended to do with my own hands a simple device: cut a small hole out of cardboard or in a nylon cover through which the cutting is passed. The lid or cardboard is placed on a glass of water, the water level in which should reach the edge of the handle. Add water when evaporating. During the period of rooting of the cutting (the duration of which can reach 1 month), an activated carbon tablet is placed in water to prevent decay processes. Note that the length of the handle does not play a special role.

First, roots form at the base of the leaf cutting, then a small nodule begins to tie. Sometimes, in order to get the largest number of tubers, the edge of the leaf cutting is divided in half lengthwise. At the first sign of the appearance of roots, it is better to plant the stalk of gloxinia in the soil. Freshly cut cuttings can be immediately planted in the soil. It is important to prepare a loose, breathable substrate with the addition of perlite or vermiculite, or sand. Until winter, tubers ranging in size from a hazelnut or more are formed from a leaf cutting. Rooting by apical cuttings. The apical cuttings of gloxinia are cut in the same way as in tuberous begonias- over a couple of leaves that have grown at the base of the tuber. Maternal gloxinia with the remaining leaves is able to grow new ones - young ones, and not die. The cut top is planted in a loose soil mixture or placed in water. Rooted by apical cuttings, gloxinia bloom much earlier than those rooted by leaf cuttings. If the tuber is well developed, it can give not one, but two shoots at once. In this case, with full confidence in the safety of your actions, cut off one of the shoots at the very base of the tuber, and boldly root. Flowering of gloxinia rooted in this way occurs in the first year, up to 7 flowers can appear on the plant

Rooting with a leaf blade or part of a leaf. This method is acceptable when you did not get quite a whole leaf for propagation, if the leaf blade was damaged during transportation, or the leaf stalk broke. Don't get upset too soon! The leaf blade can be divided into parts. It is better to do this in length: the cut is made along the central vein of the leaf, right along it. The cut point is stuck into the soil mixture and watered. After 3-4 weeks, rooting occurs, young small leaf sprouts begin to appear from under the parent plates. If you root gloxinia in spring or early summer, until autumn, a hazelnut-sized nodule has time to develop in the root system, which will easily overwinter. If rooting is done in the fall, the size of the tuber will be the size of a pea, gloxinia will have to overwinter with leaves.

Rooting flower stalks. Peduncles are cut with blooming flowers. The buds are carefully removed, and the flower stalks are placed in water using a contraption made of cardboard, as for rooting with a leaf cutting. The peduncle is fixed in such a way that its lower part is immersed in water by 1 cm. In a month, roots will appear on the peduncle - a transplant into the ground is required. After another month, leaves may appear, indicating that the formation of a nodule has occurred. Weak young plants are left in a bright and cool room for the winter, and watering must be reduced during the dormant period. With excessive humidity, gloxinia die in winter.

Reproduction by tubers. The least attractive way. Large healthy tubers can, of course, be divided into two parts, sprinkled with crushed activated or charcoal and planted in the ground, however, high humidity when watering through the top has a very bad effect on the condition of the tubers. Sections often rot, gloxinia react painfully, do not germinate for a long time, and one or even both parts of an adult plant can be easily lost.

Gloxinia (the correct name is Sinningia speciosa) is bought in summer in bloom. Choose a plant with a large number of unopened buds when picking, and then, with good care, it will bloom for another two months or even longer. In the spring, tubers are on sale. Velvety flowers reach a diameter of 7 cm or more, the color of the flowers is white, pink, red, blue, purple. Unlike many other "gift" plants, gloxinia can be stored for next year, but for a beginner this is a difficult plant. The plant requires high humidity, no drafts, regular top dressing and careful watering.

Advice: If you want to have flowering plants by the beginning of May, it is necessary to plant tubers in distribution boxes in late December - early January. A month later, when shoots appear, the plant is planted in pots with a diameter of 12 - 13 cm.

Location

Gloxinia prefers a bright, sunny room. At the same time, it needs moist air, so it can be grown in indoor greenhouses or under a special cap. Blooming gloxinia looks very beautiful on the south or southwest window.

Lighting

Bright light.

Watering

Constantly plentiful. For irrigation use warm water, avoiding water on the leaves or flowers.

Air humidity

High.

Humidity: more information

The pot is placed on a tray of pebbles or wet peat. The air around the leaves is sprayed from time to time.

Gloxinia care basics

Gloxinia needs a lot of light. The best window for its placement is the eastern one. Western is acceptable, but it's worse. In the north it is too dark, and in the south the plants will have to be shaded from direct sunlight, causing burns and death of the plant.

Proper watering is very important. Both excessive moisture and overdrying of the soil are unacceptable. The plant does not tolerate stagnant water in the soil, so very good drainage is necessary.

Dust from the leaves can be removed with a clean soft brush if you are sure that all plants are healthy (otherwise the brush will serve as a carrier of diseases). You can wash the plants under a thin stream of tepid water, but at the same time make sure that the water drains from the leaves over the edge of the pot and does not fall on the outlet or substrate (otherwise the tubers may rot). After this procedure, the plant must be placed in a warm, dark place, as stains from dried water drops or burns from direct sunlight may form.

If it is not supposed to collect seeds, then wilted flower stalks are removed to the base in order to prolong the period of abundant flowering.

When young foliage develops in spring, it is time to feed. Do them every 10-12 days an hour after watering. Start with full mineral fertilizer(you can use Vito fertilizer or Riga mixture). It is alternated with organic, but very carefully (fermented mullein is diluted with water 1:12 or even thinner). After fertilizing, the plant should not stand under the sun. Drops of nutrient solutions or water on the leaves are unacceptable.

After flowering, watering is reduced, stop feeding. After the leaves turn yellow, watering is completely stopped. The pot is stored at a temperature of 12 C. In the spring, the tuber is transplanted into fresh soil flush with the ground, deepening to the top. Keep warm with minimal watering until the leaves begin to grow, then care as described above.

reproduction

Gloxinia is propagated in different ways: by seeds, tuber division, stem and leaf cuttings, peduncles.

Seed propagation of gloxinia at room conditions is not available to everyone and is practiced in rare cases.

Most often, leafy cuttings are rooted. They take green healthy, not very large leaves with a short petiole, drain the sections from the juice and put them in water with the addition of potassium permanganate (pale pink solution). After 8 hours, the cuttings are rearranged in clean water which is changed once a week. After the roots appear, they are planted in pots with light fresh earth, watered with warm water and covered. plastic bag. In the mornings and evenings, it is necessary to remove the shelter for 10-15 minutes, then for a longer time and, finally, remove it completely. By autumn, young plants from cuttings do not develop enough tubers and are left in a room for the winter, but not in a too lit place, they reduce watering, and in spring they are transplanted into fresh soil.

Reproduction by stem petioles is carried out in the spring. When more than 2-3 shoots appear on the tuber after wintering, flowering may weaken. Therefore, the remaining stems, when they reach a height of 5-6 cm, break out and root in a pot, covered with a glass. They easily take root and bloom in the same year, however, not so abundantly. But next year they will already grow and bloom, as expected.

Flower stalks can also be used for propagation. When the flower fades, the juicy peduncle is removed and placed in a small jar of water so that it is 0.5-1 cm immersed. After 3-5 weeks, roots and a small tuber form on it. It is planted in a mixture of leaf and humus soil with sand (2: 1: 1), and after a month, the leaves of a young plant will appear on the surface of the earth.

Transfer

For growing gloxinia, low and wide pots are used. Soil composition: leafy earth, some sand and sawdust. You can also use this mixture: leafy soil, light turf, peat and clean, well-washed sand (6:3:1:1) or leafy and humus earth with sand (2:1:1). little pieces charcoal added to soil and drainage. When planting tubers, the layer of earth above the tubers should be 1-1.5 cm.

Possible difficulties

In a room with dry air, thrips and aphids appear on gloxinia. Rotting of tubers often occurs due to waterlogging of the soil or due to the use of cold water for irrigation. If gloxinia does not bloom buds, the reason for this is drafts and cold water.

If several shoots develop from a gloxinia tuber, then the weaker ones should be removed, leaving 1-2 strong ones, otherwise the flowering of the plant will not be so plentiful. "Extra" shoots can be used for cuttings.
For propagation of gloxinia by escape use weak stems. After removing the sprout from the tuber, renew the cut of the cutting with a blade and dry it. Place wet sphagnum moss or perlite in a small container. Plant a gloxinia shoot with a dried cut in a container and place it in a micro-greenhouse. When the shoot takes root, carefully transplant it into a pot of earth, without shaking off the sphagnum (perlite) from the roots. The new plant develops quickly from the cutting and blooms the same year.
To the reproduction of gloxinia by dividing the tuber you can start after it has been outlined maximum amount growing shoots. Cut the tuber into pieces with a clean knife according to the number of strong shoots, dry the sections for a day. It is useful to powder the tuber slices with a crushed activated charcoal tablet or charcoal. Plant the resulting tuber divisions in separate pots.
I first plant the gloxinia tubers so that a third of the tuber rises above the ground - this prevents the growth points from rotting (when the shoots grow, I fill up the ground to close the tubers).
After planting a gloxinia tuber, I begin to carefully water the plant (either from a pallet or from above), gently wetting the ground in a pot. Uniform moistening of the earth is one of the main conditions for the successful development of gloxinia. The frequency of watering depends on how quickly the top layer of earth in the pot dries.
With excessive moisture in initial period growth, gloxinia tuber rot is possible. In this case, dig it out immediately and wash it with water. Then cut out the affected tissue with a knife to healthy (light color), dry the cut during the day. Then disinfect the tuber (10-15 minutes in a weak solution of potassium permanganate) and plant it in a fresh substrate. After a day, begin to carefully water the substrate from above.

questions and answers

Tell me, please, they gave me a blooming gloxinia with bright burgundy large flowers and a bunch of buds. When the opened flowers faded, dimly colored ones appeared, pink flowers, smaller ones. They did not bloom for long, for some reason they began to rot, and then all the buds turned black, not yet opened, and those that were almost ready to open, the pedicel dried up. I watered gloxinia through the pan, did not overmoisten. Could rot be some kind of disease?

The reasons for the appearance of root rot of gloxinia, in addition to waterlogging, are: an excess of nitrogen fertilizers and a peat substrate (imported gloxinia go on sale in it). At the first signs of rotting of leaves and peduncles, gloxinia must be sprinkled with a suspension of foundationol (2 g per liter of water).

I live in Kazan. Grown in the fall from gloxinia seeds, some themselves went to rest in the winter, now they are growing very long and thin. Can they be cut or pinched? They haven't bloomed yet.

It is undesirable for gloxinia to grow long shoots - for this, starting from January, they begin to regularly check the pots with gloxinia, and after the shoots appear, they immediately put the pots in a bright place so that the young shoots are stocky. The regrown long shoots of gloxinia can be left as is, this year they will turn out to be a kind of ampelous gloxinia. You can cut from long shoots and root cuttings - this way you will get new young gloxinia that can be grown in the first year and without a dormant period. Moderately long shoots of gloxinia can be pinched.

My husband gave me a wonderful gloxinia, all in flowers. But now it's February - it seems to be a little early for flowering. Gloxinia stood in a chic form for only 4 days, and then suddenly dropped flowers and leaves sharply. I do not know what to do, never had such flowers. Either it disappears from the cold, or the soil needs to be changed ... Tell me, please, what to do? How to save a plant?

Gloxinia, when grown naturally in accordance with the biorhythms of the plant, usually blooms from March to August. However, having provided all the conditions for an earlier awakening of the tuber and good growth, it is possible to artificially provide more early development and flowering gloxinia.
The symptoms of the plant disease you described indicate either overdrying of the earthy coma (then gloxinia is carefully watered a little and placed in a "mini-greenhouse" - you can’t water it hard right away, rotting of the roots may begin), or root rot (this could be triggered by hypothermia of the plant during winter transportation, or over-watering, or maintenance errors).
At the first signs of root rot (the bases of some leaf petioles darken), gloxinia is sprayed with a suspension of foundationol (2 g per liter of water). If the disease has gone too far, you need to remove the rotting above-ground parts of the plant, remove the gloxinia from the ground, inspect the roots and tuber, cut off all the rotten parts of the tuber and roots, sprinkle the wounds with charcoal powder and transplant the plant into a fresh wet substrate, place in a "mini-greenhouse" "and do not water for several days, then water a little for the first time and then resume normal watering.
In order not to lose gloxinia in any outcome, I advise you to take measures for its vegetative reproduction in one or more ways.

Propagating gloxinia after the leaves give roots and are planted in the ground, the leaf dries up without having time to form a nodule. What's the matter, tell me?

Perhaps you took a cutting that was too long or kept the gloxinia leaf in the water for too long: the roots grew very long and were severely injured when the leaf cutting was planted in the ground. Or maybe you buried a long cutting too deep or watered the cutting excessively during rooting, so that the roots did not have enough air and they rotted. Or you did not place the planted cutting in the "greenhouse", and the air in the room with the rooting plant was very dry.
(After the roots appear in the water, the gloxinia leaf is immediately transplanted into a small pot with soil, lightly watered with warm water (20 degrees), placed in a "mini-greenhouse" to maintain a suitable microclimate, put in a warm place (22-25 degrees) and protected from direct sunlight. "Teplichka" is regularly ventilated, the dried soil is easily moistened).

Try rooting gloxinia leaves in sand or substrate.
Suitable for rooting "old" (the so-called "matured") leaves of gloxinia. It is better to remove them from a plant close to flowering, starting from the end of April and later. The larger the leaf taken for rooting, the larger the resulting nodule. Gloxinia leaf should be cut with a petiole no more than 1 cm and planted in moistened clean sand or substrate (sand and peat), placed in a "greenhouse". A nodule at the end of the petiole is formed in 3-4 weeks. Then the rooted stalk of gloxinia is carefully transplanted into a pot

In gloxinia, they are wrapped, i.e. leaves curl. Externally, the leaves are not damaged. What to do?

The edges of gloxinia leaves may curl slightly if the room has very dry air (preferably high relative humidity air) - maintain air humidity near the plant by all means.
Gloxinia leaves wrap inward when a spider mite settles on them, but in this case some typical signs of the appearance of mites become noticeable: small spots appear on the edges of the leaves, and a silvery tint on their wrong side (mites suck juice from leaf cells). Later, with the active reproduction of mites, a delicate cobweb becomes noticeable on the underside of the leaves.
Upon detection spider mite wipe the gloxinia leaves with a cotton swab dipped in hot (50 degrees) soapy water (20 g of liquid green (in extreme cases, laundry) soap per liter of water). For chemical treatment of spider mites, neoron is used (1 ml per liter of water), conducting 2-3 treatments at weekly intervals.

- very popular indoor plant. But, like any plant, gloxinia has its own secrets, troubles, in a word, there are problems when growing. To avoid them, you need to try to correct the conditions of gloxinia at the first sign of their appearance.

1. Gloxinia did not wake up after wintering

Storage location for gloxinia tubers should be cool and dark. If gloxinia tuber adult and healthy, then it is only necessary to put it in the light and water it a little, as shoots begin to grow in it. Sometimes gloxinia wakes up on its own, and when you take it out into the world, it already has an escape. However, in practice it does not always work out the way it should be.

Gloxinia does not wake up on time due to the fact that the rest period was too short, less than 4 months. It is quite possible that the wintering was too dry and the tuber dried out. But in any case, gloxinia wakes up by itself. It just takes patience.

In order not to encounter overdrying of the tuber, pots with gloxinia in winter should sometimes be lightly watered or sprinkled with water. And you can put gloxinia tubers in plastic bags, pouring some soil or wet moss into it. Close the bags or tie tightly. The bag will retain constant humidity, and due to the fact that the bag is transparent, you will have the opportunity to observe gloxinia tubers in winter. At the first appearance of leaves, you can immediately plant gloxinia in a pot.

If gloxinia did not wake up after wintering, it means that too young gloxinia was sent for wintering, which did not have time to form a tuber, or the tuber rotted.

If a gloxinia tuber was purchased in a store and after last year's flowering it did not wake up from hibernation, it is possible that the tuber was sold of very low quality. A lot of flower growers complain about this problem. Outwardly, the tubers look quite safe, but in reality it may turn out that they are already old, or infected with some kind of infection or pests. The strength of such tubers is only enough to bloom for one season.

Dig up the tuber, inspect it: if it is very wrinkled, then most likely it is gone. Break or cut it: the tuber on the cut should be slightly yellowish or pinkish. If so, then dry the sections, sprinkle with crushed charcoal, you can treat with ordinary brilliant green or fucorcin (raspberry liquid, a strong antiseptic, has an antifungal effect, sold in pharmacies). You can treat the tuber with epin or zircon to increase the vitality of the tuber, to stimulate it to form shoots.

If the gloxinia tuber is brown on the cut, then most likely it has disappeared. If the brown color is only from one edge, cut off all the rot, process the tuber as described above and plant it in new soil.

If you want the purchased tubers to be able to endure wintering without problems, then immediately after acquiring gloxinia tubers at home, process all planting material in a solution of potassium permanganate or phytosporin. This treatment is aimed at keeping gloxinia tubers from rot.

The next step is the treatment of gloxinia tubers with Actellik or Fitoverm. These drugs will help get rid of thrips, spider mites and other pests of indoor plants.

If you purchased gloxinia in a pot, change the ground and process the tuber. The land that is sold in pots along with plants is very poor.

Perhaps the tuber is already old, and just died. Gloxinia live three to four years. If you really value this particular variety of gloxinia, try to root the cutting or leaf in advance.

2. Gloxinia did not have time to form a tuber

Spots on gloxinia leaves may appear from too bright lighting. Shade gloxinia, otherwise there will be sunburn. Spots on gloxinia leaves can appear from excessive watering, and also if you water too much. cold water. Gloxinia leaf spot can cause drafts. Small spots on gloxinia leaves may indicate the presence of pests on the plant. Insecticide treatments are needed. In addition, gloxinia can be affected by various viral diseases, such as tomato ringspot virus.

8. Gloxinia leaves curl

Twisting gloxinia leaves perhaps if the room is too dry and hot. However, even with too much air humidity, excessive waterlogging of the soil, gloxinia leaves also curl, bend, short pedicels form, or the formation of deformed flowers is observed. Adjust the watering of gloxinia. Treat gloxinia with actellik or fitoverm from spider mites. Twisting gloxinia leaves can be from an overdose of potash fertilizers.

9. Gloxinia leaves turned red

Reddening of gloxinia leaves begins with a lack of phosphorus. Phosphorus starvation leads to the fact that gloxinia generally ceases to bloom. To fix this problem, feed gloxinia with superphosphate or other fertilizer that contains more phosphorus and potassium than nitrogen. For example, diammophoska fertilizer or liquid top dressing containing a set of additional trace elements is suitable for this.

10. Gloxinia dry lower leaves

Gloxinia dry lower leaves with insufficient air humidity, or vice versa, overflow. Possibly an infection. Treat with phytosporin or another fungicide. If this happens already in the fall, when gloxinia is preparing to retire, then this is normal.

11. Gloxinia does not bloom

Gloxinia does not bloom due to overfeeding with nitrogen fertilizers. Nitrogen only stimulates the growth of greenery, but slows down flowering. Insufficient lighting, low ambient temperature, low humidity or insufficient watering can affect the delay in flowering. Incorrect or too short wintering can also affect flowering, as a result of which the tuber did not have time to prepare for the next season. In order for gloxinia to bloom well next season, it needs a dormant period of four months.

In order for gloxinia to fully bloom, it just needs good lighting. Gloxinia love the light! From the moment they wake up, immediately put pots with gloxinia tubers in places where there is a lot of light, or organize additional lighting, otherwise the buds may not be laid at all, and if they are, there may be few of them, or the flowers may not be fully formed, turn out to be a barren flower , or not fully open.

The size of the pot also plays an important role. For growing gloxinia, it is better to choose a small, low and wide potrather than a deep one. In a large pot, gloxinia will grow a tuber for a long time to the detriment of flowering. For an adult gloxinia tuber, the pot should be about 9-12 cm in diameter. And after active growth begins in gloxinia, it is necessary to carry out fertilizing with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers.

In addition to the pot, gloxinia annually needs a transplant and new fertile land. You can make an earthen mixture for gloxinia yourself: humus, coniferous earth, leaf earth, sand, perlite or hydrogel, peat. But before use, it must be calcined for pests and pathogens. Sprinkle the soil on a tray and bake it in the oven for 20-30 minutes.

If it is not possible to make your own earth mixture, then you will have to use a store mix, but fertilize more often.

12. Petioles of gloxinia leaves rot, rot, blacken and die buds

At gloxinia, leaf petioles rot, buds rot due to excessive waterlogging, too acidic soil pH, as well as an excess amount of nitrogen-containing fertilizers. Change soil, adjust watering. In order not to overdo it with nitrogen, use only complex fertilizers, which, in addition to nitrogen, include both phosphorus and potassium. Additionally, carry out two or three treatments with phytosporin, Maxim or another fungicide to keep the gloxinia tuber from rotting.

If gloxinia buds turn black and die, then, most likely, the wintering was too cold, the soil was too poor and there was not enough food, a strong overflow. Usually, flowering problems are solved by fertilizing with phosphorus fertilizers and additional lighting. Treat with fungicides. If the problem is not corrected, then most likely there are problems with the tuber: it began to disappear.

13. Gloxinia produces a barren flower

at first on gloxinia, as usual, buds are laid, sepals open, and inside instead of a bud there is a green pea, barren flower. After some time, the pedicel, on which this underdeveloped bud grew, turns brown.

Perhaps the gloxinia tuber was stored at too cold a temperature. Cut off this pedicel, and wait for the next peduncles. After a while, see how new buds open, perhaps everything will return to normal without additional intervention. Try a few more sprays of epin to help the plant relieve stress and help the formation of normal buds.

14. Gloxinia does not fully open buds

Gloxinia does not fully open buds, and then turn brown and become soft. This is quite possible if there are too many buds on the gloxinia, and she does not have enough top dressing, she is simply not able to overpower the flowering. In this way, gloxinia itself regulates its flowering. This may be a varietal feature.

It is possible that she bloomed too early or late, when the daylight hours are short and she simply does not have enough light. Usually, this occurs during the off-season.

Under-opening of buds may be the result of an attack by a spider mite or thrips. Apply insecticide treatments.

15. Gloxinia buds dry

Gloxinia buds dry due to too dry air, high air temperature. If the summer is very hot, spray gloxinia. Hang a damp sheet over the window. Try feeding with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers.

16. Gloxinia began to wither all the leaves

If gloxinia leaves begin to wither in the fall, this means that gloxinia is preparing for wintering. Reduce watering to a minimum. Wait for the gloxinia to completely wither, cut off the top of the shoots, leave only a small stump and send the gloxinia tuber for the winter. It is possible in the same pot, it is possible in a plastic bag, as was described in problem 1.

If the leaves of gloxinia began to wither during the growing season, then most likely there are problems with the tuber. From too much waterlogging, he rotted. Urgently dig, cut off the affected leaves, treat the tuber with fungicides and plant in fresh soil.

17. How to make gloxinia bloom again

If your gloxinia has faded and no longer forms flower stalks, and you want make gloxinia bloom again, cut it back to 2-3 pairs of leaves. In 1.5-2 months, the gloxinia will grow a new stem, and your favorite gloxinia will bloom again. Re-flowering can be stimulated by fertilizing with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers.

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