Wall decoration in the house with clapboard. Features and technology of wall cladding with clapboard

Today it is fashionable to replace plastic trim elements with wooden options, which gives the home comfort and warmth. The technology of wall cladding with wood has been known for a long time, but remains relevant to this day. Today we’ll figure out whether do-it-yourself clapboard wall cladding is so difficult, and whether it can be done without outside help.

What nuances should be considered when working with lining

Lining is a board of different thickness, which is made from different types of wood. This material got its name because of the place where it was first applied. These are wagons in trains, the inner walls of which were sheathed with small wooden slats. Today it is fashionable to sheathe the walls in the bath with clapboard, as well as in the sauna, or the gazebo.

It must be taken into account that the decoration of the walls with clapboard with one's own hands requires a thorough, balanced approach. Pay attention to the following details:

Packed boards should be stored on a substrate in a horizontal position.
The humidity of the storage room must be within the normal range.
Storage should not be allowed when direct sunlight is directed at the packages.
It is important to pay attention to the expiration dates indicated on the package.

The cost of 1 m2 of distillation from linden, which perfectly tolerates temperature changes and high humidity, costs 500 rubles, and in order to sheathe walls in the main rooms at the dacha, on average, you can meet a smaller amount - 300 rubles per m2. Important! The price of the material directly depends on the quality of the wood.

On a note! Lining for walls is bought with a margin, which is equal to ten percent of the total area. It must be remembered that the width of each element is measured by the internal depth, so you need to subtract 10-12 mm of the groove depth.

Lining material processing

After the purchase, the question becomes, how to sheathe the walls with clapboard on your own, so that the coating turns out to be wear-resistant and beautiful? The primary task is the correct pre-treatment, because the manufacturer does not carry out any manipulations with the tree. You need to do the following:

Needle products need degreasing. To do this, it is better to rinse the board with a 25% acetone solution. Then wipe with a cloth dampened with water and dry.

All, even the most minor, damage should be repaired with a putty mixture for wood. You can buy it at any hardware store.

If you need to change the shade, then you can use stain, or other professional impregnations that will preserve the beautiful texture of the wood.

What you need to prepare the walls for lining

There are two main options for how to make a wall clapboard: glue and frame. Note that the first one will require you to have a perfectly flat surface. That is why the second method is preferable, which involves the construction of a crate. Among the advantages of this method is the creation of additional space for warming the room.

In order to fix the lining on the wall, you need:

Tools. In this particular case, you should prepare a drill with different nozzles, plumb line (level), pliers, hammer, hand saw or electric jigsaw.
Reiki for the construction of the frame. For these purposes, whole wooden beams with a section of 30 * 60 mm. At the same stage, the substrates used to level the surfaces are prepared.
Fastening materials: dowels, self-tapping screws, nails, kleimers, if necessary, then hangers for the frame.

Important! Even if the frame method of fastening is used, preliminary preparation of working surfaces is required. The procedure is simple, it consists in the fact that all decorative elements are removed from the wall, and the defects are overwritten. After that, an additional primer is carried out.

How to create a crate for lining fasteners

Preparing walls for lining is the most scrupulous process. You will have to tinker with creating a special design. General recommendations:

Treat the beam with refractory impregnation and antifungal agents.
Make sure that the slats are located strictly perpendicular to the decorative boards.

Between the rails, it is necessary to observe a single distance, the step of which is 40-50 cm.

It is necessary to leave a distance between the floor and the ceiling. This recommendation is especially relevant for wooden houses which are constantly subject to shrinkage.
The evenness in the installation of the frame is subject to careful check, for this, plumb lines and a level are used.

If a space is formed between the rail and the wall, then it must be filled with prepared dies.

Important! The construction of the crate makes it possible to equip the walls with an additional insulating layer. The insulation is fixed between the formed racks.

Which fixation option to choose?

It is important to decide on the method of fixing plank materials. Sheathing a wall can be done in several ways:

Through view of fasteners. This is the simplest solution that does not require much effort. The point is that the screws are screwed directly through the front side. This method involves marking so that the fastener points are located on the same line. In addition, holes are drilled in advance on the wagon board, which will not allow the tree to deteriorate and crack. When screwing in screws, make sure that their heads are completely recessed into the wood. This is easy to achieve if you pre-drill a place under the hat with a large-caliber drill. Formed holes are masked with special eraser plugs or rubbed with putty. Of the shortcomings, this method significantly violates the external aesthetic appeal of the coating.

Fastening the lining to the wall can be carried out using decorative carnations. Their hats were originally decorated to match the color of the material.

A great option would be hidden carnations without hats. The peculiarity is that such nails can only be hammered at an angle of 80 degrees. This will make it possible to hide those areas that have been violated.
If you have a professional stapler on your farm, then staples can be used for fasteners.

Important! Not worth buying hand tool for driving staples, which is sold at every corner, since its use does not provide a secure fit.

With the smallest thickness of the wagon board, kleimers are used. The main advantage is that the mounts are invisible.

The method of how to fix the lining to the wall is selected individually, based on the specific situation. But we note that recently the most popular are the kleimers.

The process of fastening the lining

Before sheathing the walls, the material is brought into the room and left for two days. This manipulation is essential for the tree to fully acclimatize.

Important! If you rush and skip this stage, then there is a high probability that the structure will warp.

All work must be carried out at positive air temperatures, and the optimum humidity is at least 60%.

The essence of the technique:

Most often, laying is carried out in a horizontal position, so install the first bar at the bottom so that its pinch (groove) looks up.
As with wallpapering, fixing should start from a corner that is away from the entrance to the room.

Check the board carefully with a level, taking into account the horizontal and vertical surfaces.
The first board is fastened, and the rest are then grooved, and then fixed with clamps. be careful with the first and last elements, it is better to fix them with screws.

After finishing, you need to decorate the walls with skirting boards and corners, or you can paint the walls from the lining with stain or varnish the surface.

Experience guarantees completion of finishing work in a day, even including the installation of the frame. Natural materials will give the room comfort and warmth, last a long time, and retain beauty.

Video: Do-it-yourself lining installation

November 2, 2016
Specialization: facade finishing, interior finishing, construction of dachas, garages. The experience of an amateur gardener and horticulturist. He also has experience repairing cars and motorcycles. Hobbies: playing the guitar and much more, for which there is not enough time :)

Lining today is one of the most popular finishing materials for country houses. Therefore, home craftsmen often ask me about certain nuances of its installation. To help those who are engaged in finishing suburban housing or are just planning it, in this article I decided to talk in detail about how to properly finish clapboard inside the house with my own hands.

The choice of lining

First of all, we will consider which lining is better for interior decoration of the house, since the question of choice is the first thing you will have to face before finishing the room.

The main parameters that distinguish this finishing material are as follows:

type of wood;
quality;
profile.

As for the type of wood, the following types of lining are most often used for interior decoration:

from cedar - this lining is durable due to its high density and abundance of resin in the structure. In addition, it has a number of other advantages:
- has a calming effect on the nervous system;
- has an antiseptic property, which also favorably affects the health of those living in the house;
- has an attractive appearance;
- mosquitoes are afraid of the smell of cedar.

The disadvantages of this material include only the high cost, so not everyone can afford to use cedar lining;

from linden - has an attractive uniform color and pleasant. Often, such lining is used for cladding baths, since it practically does not contain resin.
The disadvantages include a porous loose structure and susceptibility to decay, so the linden must be treated with protective impregnations;

from pine - is the most popular due to its low cost, attractive appearance (it has a beautiful, pronounced pattern) and resistance to decay. The disadvantages include the ability to release resin. Moreover, this phenomenon can be observed for some time even after thorough drying of the board;

from larch - it will be distinguished by high strength, comparable to oak products. In addition, larch has another important quality - resistance to moisture. This wood practically does not rot, so it is often used for exterior decoration.
Of the shortcomings, only high cost can be distinguished;

oak - this material belongs to the elite class, which is associated with the highest performance and attractive appearance. If you want to finish the house once and for all life, then oak lining is what you need. True, its cost, as it is not difficult to guess, is the highest.

Another important factor in the choice is the quality of the lining. According to this parameter, it is divided into several varieties:

I must say that there is still a third grade, however, it is not suitable for home decoration, so we will not consider it.

When choosing a material, pay attention to the lining profile, which can imitate timber, logs or even siding. True, the choice depends solely on the interior design that you want to end up with and personal preferences.

Below are the prices for some types of lining:

Based on the above information, everyone can decide for himself which lining to choose for interior decoration.

Finishing technology

The interior decoration of the house with clapboard includes several stages:

Let's start with this work in order.

Stage 1: preparation of materials

To complete the decoration of a country house with a lining inside, in addition to the lining itself, you will need the following materials:

wooden slats about 2 mm thick;
kleimers - special fasteners for lining.

If you also plan to insulate the walls from the inside, then you should prepare:

insulation;
vapor barrier film;
bars for assembling the frame.

Insulation of the house from the inside, for a number of reasons, should be considered as a last resort if it is not possible to perform insulation from the outside or if the external insulation is not effective enough.

Before purchasing all the materials, you need to calculate the quadrature of the surfaces that you are going to sheathe with clapboard. To calculate the materials, you can use the online calculator.

Stage 2: preparing the walls

If the walls of the house are brick, block or concrete, then before finishing them, it is necessary to perform the following preparatory steps:

first, you should dismantle all the elements that may interfere with further work - these are shelves, hanging cabinets, decor element, etc.;
if there are areas with peeling plaster on the surface, tiles or other finishing material, they must be removed.

If you are preparing a wooden house for lining with clapboard, the work is done a little differently:

after dismantling the hinged elements, it is necessary to treat the wooden walls with an antiseptic composition. The agent should be applied according to the instructions on the package;
if there are gaps between the crowns, they must be insulated using tow, twine, polyurethane cords or other insulation.

Here, in fact, are all the nuances of preparing the walls.

Stage 3: installation of the frame

In order to qualitatively mine the lining inside the house, you need to properly install it. It is necessary to approach its arrangement especially responsibly if the house is to be insulated. In this case, the work is done like this:

First of all, you need to make a ventilation gap. To do this, you need to attach rails to the walls. You need to arrange them horizontally in the form of belts with a step of about 50 cm;

then a vapor barrier film must be attached to the crate. At the same time, it is very important to place it tightly, moreover, the canvases should overlap each other by 10 cm. The joints can be glued with adhesive tape;
now you need to fix the frame racks. To fix them, you can use metal corners.
During the installation process, the most important thing is to position the racks vertically and in the same plane. To do this, first install the extreme bars from the corners at the same distance from the wall. Then between them you need to pull the threads and set the intermediate racks along them.
The distance between the bars should be a centimeter or two less than the width of the mats;

then in the space between the racks you need to lay a heater;
then a vapor barrier film is attached to the frame according to the scheme described above;
at the end of the work, it is necessary to make a counter-lattice of laths with a thickness of about 2 cm. Keep in mind that the counter-lattice should be perpendicular to the position of the lining.

In order for the ventilation gap to work, it is necessary to make air ducts in the wall below and under the visor, i.e. small holes. They can be filled with mineral wool and closed with a mesh.

If the walls are not insulated from the inside, it is enough just to fix the slats perpendicular to the lining. Keep in mind that the slats must also be in the same plane, otherwise the walls will turn out to be uneven.

As for the ceiling, the principle of mounting the frame is the same - wooden slats are attached to the slabs or floor beams, which are leveled. True, in some cases the ceiling in wooden house intentionally performed with open beams. In this case, the slats are installed in the space between the beams.

Stage 4: lining installation

The instructions for mounting the lining on the walls are quite simple. As an example, consider the process of mounting the lining in a vertical position, since most often it is installed in this way:

first of all, the boards must be cut according to the height of the room;

now you can start sheathing the frame, starting from the corner. Place the board in a vertical position on the level, and attach it to the crate with self-tapping screws, screwing them from the side of the spike. Pre-drill the holes to prevent the board from cracking.
From the side of the groove, the lining is attached to the frame with the help of special fasteners. They provide concealed installation. Kleimers are attached to the frame with small nails or self-tapping screws;

In the photo - the docking of the lining between each other

the second board must be docked with the first in the lock, and then fixed in the same way from the side of the groove with clamps. According to this principle, the entire wall is sheathed;
the last board must be cut in width from the side of the groove, and attached to the frame with self-tapping screws. The latter should be placed closer to the corner;

after sheathing all the walls, decorative wooden corners are attached to the corners. You can fix them with carnations with bitten off hats;
then you need to perform slopes. To do this, fasten the slats along the perimeter of the openings, and attach the lining to them according to the standard scheme.
You can learn more about the installation of slopes from other articles on our portal dedicated to this topic;

at the end of the work, install wooden corners around the perimeter of the openings.

Now, according to the same scheme, lining of the ceilings with clapboard is performed. The joints of the ceiling with the walls can be hidden both with wooden corners and with special wooden ceiling plinths.

In the same way, the house is finished with clapboard from the outside. As a rule, the facades of wooden houses are finished in this way.

Upon completion of the work, the lining should be treated with a protective impregnation or varnished. This will make the surface even more attractive, and will also protect the material from all sorts of negative influences.

Here, in fact, is all the information on how to finish the inside of the house with a wooden clapboard.

Conclusion

Sheathing the house with clapboard from the inside is carried out simply and quickly. The most important thing is to properly prepare the surface and ensure a flat frame surface. As for fastening the lining, this procedure is easiest to perform using clamps.

Wooden lining (evrovonka), which was pressed by siding and plastic panels is slowly gaining ground. More and more users prefer this beautiful, natural and time-tested material.

Naturally, many construction teams offer services for the installation of wooden lining (euro lining). But, not everyone has the money to pay for third-party work, or simply, if you don’t want to build a house, then at least make the outer or inner wall cladding on your own. Therefore, below is a material focused on those who are interested self-assembly wagons made of wood.

How to sheathe a house with a clapboard with your own hands

At first glance, it may seem that lining walls and ceilings is a simple and time-consuming process. As it is not paradoxical, but the way it is. To work, you will need minimal skills in working with a tool, wood and step-by-step instruction for the installation of wooden lining.

Step 1 - Choosing a wooden lining

To choose the right wooden lining for wall decoration, you need to take into account the influence of such factors:

Purpose of the premises. Depending on the purpose of the room, the requirements for lining will differ.

for a sauna, you need eurolining of the “elite” class, preferably of coniferous species;

for exterior finish any lining is suitable, the main thing is to ensure its proper protection from all possible damage;

for interior spaces- the main requirement is the environmental friendliness of the material.

Ways of fastening a wooden lining. They will have a key influence on the calculation of the material for installation. There are several ways:

Sheathing lining vertically. The most common method. Two factors contributed to this. Firstly, the vertical fastening reliably protects the tongue and groove from water leakage. Secondly, it allows you to visually raise the height of the ceilings of the room.

Note: vertical installation of lining is the most optimal for a steam room, as it allows condensate to flow down.

Sheathing clapboard horizontally. The easiest way. Finishing with clapboard horizontally allows you to hide possible flaws on the surface of the walls. Horizontal fastening is more often used for exterior decoration, and the lining is installed with a groove down to avoid water leakage.

Diagonal clapboard trim. A very wasteful method in terms of material consumption. But winning when decorating broken surfaces, for example, attic walls.

Herringbone lining. Quite laborious, requiring serious calculations, but at the same time the most economical way to mount the lining, allowing the use of small pieces of lining;

Combined lining lining. Allows you to create geometric patterns from boards of different lengths, mounted at different angles. However, such fastening requires certain skills and is characterized by a high consumption of material as scraps. And also complex from the point of view of the frame structure.

Note. Not all lining profiles allow you to choose the installation method. For example, a block house or an American is mounted only horizontally. Therefore, when choosing a laying method, consider the configuration of the lamella.

You can also combine horizontal and vertical wall cladding with clapboard.

wood species. For the manufacture of lining, both coniferous and deciduous species of wood are used. The choice depends on the purpose of the room, for example, conifers are more resistant to moisture, and hardwoods are more durable. And also on the cost of the material, the desired color and texture.

Variety of wooden lining. The type of lining can be determined "by eye" knowing the main parameters that determine it. These include: the presence of knots, wormholes, chips, darkening, etc. The highest quality is the "extra" or "elite" variety, which is reflected in its cost. This is followed by varieties 1 (A), 2 (B), 3 (AB).

Note. The presence of knots, especially dead ones (able to fall out), in addition to the visual effect, reduces the ability of wood to retain heat.

Lining dimensions. Due to the fact that the cost of lining is usually indicated per square meter, its dimensions will be important.

lining thickness. For outdoor work, you need to take a thicker board (20-25 mm.), For internal work, 10-16 mm will be enough;

lining width. Doesn't matter. But, users note that for a small room it is worth choosing a narrow board. Conversely, a narrow board on a large surface will "ripple" in the eyes;

lining length. The maximum length of the panels is 6,000 mm. It is necessary to choose a length at which there will be the least amount of joints and waste. In addition, it is worth considering the problem of large-sized transportation.

lining type(determined by the appearance of the lamella):

ordinary lining (classic, calm, standard). It does not have primary processing and is distinguished by a short comb (up to 5 mm), which can create difficulties for beginners when installing with their own hands;

eurolining. It has more accurate geometric parameters due to stringent requirements for production, packaging and storage. It features an elongated comb (up to 8 mm.);

block house. Imitates rounded timber, more common in exterior decoration;

American. The difference of this lining in the absence of the "groove-comb" system. It can only be mounted horizontally.

Step 2 - Calculation of wooden lining

When purchasing a lining, you need to know how much material is required. The price of wooden lining is usually indicated in square meters, less often in cubic meters. But, a simple, mathematical calculation in this case is unsuitable. Since, the quadrature will be influenced by the length of the lining, the height of the walls of the house, the number and size of window / doorways. And the thickness of the lamella is also per cubic capacity.

There are three ways to calculate lining:

Intuitive. The perimeter of the surface area to be finished with clapboard is considered. The area of the openings is subtracted from it. And from 10 to 30% for waste are added to the result. A simple but not very accurate way. For those who want to save money, it is clearly not suitable.

Mathematical. It is more scrupulous and involves the calculation of the number of lining lamellas piece by piece. Those. takes into account the length and width of the lamella, as well as the parameters of the openings. To calculate, you need to divide the length of the surface by the width of the lamella. Thus, it is possible to determine the number of lamellas, and take into account their length. As a result of the calculations, we get the exact value. In this case, no more than 10% is left for waste.

Program. in online mode.

Tip: at the point of sale, you need to choose the length of the lining closest to the desired one in order to reduce scrap waste.

The waste percentage is determined by two parameters:

First, the type of lining. The lower the grade, the greater the waste allowance.
Secondly, the geometry of laying the lamellas (attachment method).

3 step - Tool and material

In addition to the lining itself, for work you will need:

wooden rail (45x20 mm) or galvanized profile for drywall;
heat-insulating material, vapor barrier, wind barrier (if necessary);
dowel (for a stone structure), screws (for a wooden base);
nails, kleimer, staples (depending on the method of fastening);
jigsaw or hacksaw;
screwdriver, hammer, stapler (depending on the method of attachment);
level, plumb, triangle;
antiseptic, flame retardant, primer, paint or varnish;
perforator;
drill.

Step 4 - Preparing the lining for installation

Primary preparation is reduced to the performance of work in two directions:

The primary processing of the lining includes grinding (for a regular board), sorting the lamellas by color, checking for defects. As well as treatment with a primer, an antiseptic (protects against decay, biological activity) and a flame retardant (creates a microfilm on the wood surface that prevents combustion). If the softwood lining is very resinous, it is necessary to carry out deresining.

How to remove resin from lining?

To remove resinous secretions, you need to apply an acetone solution to the lamella, and then wipe the surface. In the presence of defects, fallen knots, potholes, cracks, it is necessary to treat the lamella with putty.

Preparatory work is carried out before the installation of the lining, because. it is necessary to process all surfaces of the lamellas, including those that will be located on the wrong side. As well as grooves and ridges, access to which will simply be impossible after installation.

Note: the lining must “gain” the temperature of the room where the finishing will be carried out. To do this, it must be placed in the room in advance. This rule does not apply to lining for outdoor work.

Surface treatment means inspecting the wall/ceiling for cracks, fungus, other damage, removing all defects, and dismantling sockets and switches. The wall surface should be treated with protective compounds.

Step 5 - Lining with clapboard

5.1 Installation of the crate under the lining

The installation of the crate begins with the installation of the frame belt.

Notes. With vertical mounting of the lining, the laths of the crate are stuffed horizontally. For horizontal installation - vertically. With a diagonal - perpendicular to the direction of laying the lamellas.

How to make a crate for lining?

The first rails are installed around the perimeter of the surface. First, the rails are mounted at the corners of the building, so that there are two rails for each corner. We check the correctness of the installation with a plumb line or level. Then along the perimeter of window and door openings, and only after that intermediate rails are stuffed.

The step of the crate for lining is determined by the thickness of the insulation (if it is planned to install one) or is chosen in any order. Professionals recommend installing intermediate rails at a distance of 400 to 800 mm. Moreover, the higher the room, the smaller the step of the crate should be.

Wooden lining can also be installed on rounded surfaces.

The slats are attached to the surface using hardware or EU brackets for drywall profiles. In the event that the wall is absolutely flat, you can attach it directly to it, i.e. without a crate. And if in some places there is a gap between the wall and the rail, it can be filled with a piece of wooden beam, for a tighter fit of the rail to the wall.

Note. Wooden slats for the crate must be an acceptable level of humidity. Otherwise, the lining will draw moisture and may be deformed.

It is important to ensure ventilation of the surface under the lining. To do this, the slats are packed with small gaps, as shown in the figure.

The most important thing in the installation of the crate is the constant control of the installation using the building level. The more accurately the crate is set, the easier and smoother the installation of the lining will be.

In addition, experts advise leaving a small gap above and below between the end of the rail and the ceiling, so that it is convenient to nail the lining. The gap from below (from the floor) is easy to provide if you place a piece of bar under the rail.

Note. For wooden houses, a gap of 2-2.5 cm is required. This is due to the fact that the tree shrinks within 3-10 years, depending on the method of construction.

5.2 Insulation of the wall under the lining

Wall decoration with clapboard allows you to lay insulation (hard or soft) in the cells of the crate. The insulation is placed in the cells of the crate. When laying thermal insulation material, you need to make sure that there are no gaps between the mats. To do this, it is better to lay two thin layers of material with an offset than one, but thick. From above, a film of a vapor barrier (when installed inside the house) or a wind barrier (when installed outside the house) is superimposed on it.

Universal will be the use of a superdiffusion membrane such as Tyvek (Tyvek). When laying, it is important to ensure that the film overlaps by 100 mm, and also to lay it on the correct side. The marked side (rough) should face the lining. On top of the film, counters are stuffed, on which, in fact, the lining will be attached.

Advice. It is desirable to produce insulation from the outside of the house. This will shift the freezing point into the insulation. And eliminate the possibility of freezing of the wall.

5.3 Fastening the lining

Before proceeding directly to the installation of the lining, you need to decide on the method of fastening. Let's consider all the known ways of fastening the lining to the wall, ceiling and crate in order to choose the most suitable option. It is worth noting that the lining of the bath with a lining will be somewhat different from the finishing of the lining inside or outside the house.

How to fix the lining?

Fastening lining with nails

The nail securely fixes the lining to the crate beam. As you can see in the photo, the nail is driven into the groove.

How to hammer nails into the lining?

Eurolining can be nailed straight, and domestic (ordinary) - only at an angle. Working with nails is more risky compared to other methods because you can split the wood. For the front fastening of the lining, it is better to use galvanized screw nails.

Note. The length of the nail should be at least twice the thickness of the lamella.

Advice. You can simplify driving a nail into a groove if you use a simple fixture. Namely, from a nail (weaving) you need to saw off a sharp edge. Next, attach it to the carnation to be hammered and apply force through it. Thus, the risk of damage to the front part of the lamella is significantly reduced.

The process of fastening the lining with nails is shown in the diagram.

Fastening lining with kleimers

Note: installation of lining on the walls in the bath requires the use of copper or galvanized clamps.

Fastening the lining with self-tapping screws

The method is used for through fastening the lamellas to the crate. Less often with a secret.

Fastening the lining with brackets

Mounting a wooden lining on staples with a stapler is extremely rare. Due to the fact that you need a special stapler (pistol), which is able to break through rather thick and dense wood. Some users recommend driving the staple into the clamp. Professionals disagree on the correctness of such a recommendation.

Combined method

This fastening of the lining allows you to fix the panels securely. The method involves the use of nails or clamps and self-tapping screws to fix the lining from above and below, i.e. where the attachment point will be covered with decorative elements.

What is the best way to fasten the lining?

Knowing how to fix a wooden lining, you can choose the most effective method. At the same time, the final choice may be influenced by:

plans for further dismantling of the lining. Fastening using clamps simplifies dismantling;

indoor humidity level. With a high constant level of humidity, it is better to use self-tapping screws;

aesthetic look. Concealed installation involves the use of clamps or nails and allows you to completely hide the fasteners, and the mounted lining looks more beautiful. outdoor installation lining provides fastening through the board. In this case, it is important that the screws go in one line;

lining type. Eurolining can be fastened in any way, it is more difficult to fasten ordinary lining with nails due to the small size of the groove;

lining, which is re-attached (previously dismantled, used), is attached to nails. This is due to the fact that during the dismantling process, the grooves may be damaged;

fastening speed and lining thickness. Fastening the lining with a stapler allows you to work as quickly as possible, however, the thickness of the lining and the type of wood affect the possibility of its use;

installation method - hidden or through. With through-hole installation, you need to drill a hole halfway through the self-tapping screw, and then screw it in until it stops. Again, through installation eliminates the use of rough nails (only finishing), because. ugly streaks of rust may form on the wall.

Installation of lining on the walls begins from the corner of the room, if the mount is horizontal, and from above (if vertical). Particular attention is paid to the installation of the first lamella. After all, she will set the direction for all work. The first board is attached on one side (top or side), then the horizontal (vertical) is installed, then the second end is attached. Only after making sure that the board is correctly set and level, you can fix it in the middle.

In order for the next board to fit snugly into the previous one, efforts must be made to it. To do this, you can use a rubber mallet or padding. The padding is a piece of wooden lining. Its use allows you to protect the front of the lamella from accidental hammer blows.

Note. In case of using nails. They are completely clogged into the previous lamella, only after the subsequent lamella is “baited”. This is done in order to avoid warping the board.

It rarely happens that the lamellas cover the surface perfectly. Often trimming of finishing boards is required. Trimming must be done carefully, especially if it will not be covered with decorative elements. The last board is fastened in a through way using self-tapping screws, which can then be closed with putty, a wooden plug or special overlays. Or using finishing nails that have practically no head.

Another point that you may encounter when finishing is the discrepancy between the length of the lining and the height / length of the room. In this case, everything depends on the preferences of the owners, but it is preferable that the ends of the lamella fragments be at different levels.

5.5 Decorative lining

Sheathing with clapboard outside and inside the house ends with decoration. Decor elements will close the flaws in the work and give the walls and ceiling a finished look.

But, so that the finish does not spoil the work, you need to know how to install decorative elements and how to attach them correctly.

The outer or inner corner is closed with a wooden corner. It can be glued (with a small weight of the decorative element) or fixed with finishing nails.

Window and door openings should be trimmed with platbands. They can be joined at an angle of 90 or 45 °.

The place where the wall joins the ceiling or floor must be trimmed with a cornice or plinth and also fixed with hardware.

Reinstall the switches and sockets removed before starting work.

It is worth noting that the lining does not end with the above steps. Next, the surface is needed:

clean from dust, apply an additional layer of primer to the lining (individual lamellas were primed with the first layer before starting work);

grinding (once again go through the lining with fine sandpaper). The fact is that after priming the surface will acquire a slightly rough texture;

varnishing or painting. Finishing is a rather long and responsible stage. Here it is important to choose the right coating, and apply it correctly. For example, professionals advise applying the coating in several layers and only after the previous layer has completely dried. A detailed description of how and how to cover the lining.

utilization of lining waste. Users advise using lamella trimmings to make frames, curtain rods, furniture cladding, countertops, etc.

Do-it-yourself clapboard sheathing - video guide

Conclusion

The technology for decorating walls with clapboard inside and outside the house, and in the bath (steam room, shower room) is different, this should be taken into account during installation. The choice of mounting and installation method also makes certain adjustments. Good fasteners and wood processing will extend the life of the cladding.

Finishing work is always associated with dust and dirt. It takes a lot of money and time to repair, and the result does not always satisfy the owners. Lining is a practical and environmentally friendly material with which you can quickly decorate a room.

To sheathe an apartment with clapboard, you do not need to spend a lot of time and building materials to level the walls and ceiling. The material looks neat and attractive, it is an additional heat-insulating material with which you can create a flat surface. In addition, it is environmentally friendly.

Varieties

Before sheathing a room in a country house with clapboard, as in the case of a city apartment, it is necessary to decide what type of lining will be used. Each type of material has certain advantages and disadvantages.

On the construction market, you can purchase the following types of lining:

plastic;
wooden;
from MDF.

The highest quality is considered natural material - wood. However, it may not be used for all rooms. For example, for a bathroom that always maintains high level humidity, it is better to choose an inexpensive plastic that does not collapse with constant contact with moisture.

Advantages

The children's room, lined with clapboard, looks simple and versatile. No need to finish the walls with other materials, glue wallpaper. The panels are easy to assemble, forming a smooth surface, and all fasteners are hidden inside the structure. If there is a gap between the material and the wall, then communications can be hidden in it.

Plastic panels have the following advantages:

moisture resistance;
dirt is easily washed off with a sponge;
you can purchase material with different patterns and patterns;
low cost.

Natural wood material is distinguished by higher rates of strength and environmental friendliness, reliability. The lining has a pleasant aroma, which creates an atmosphere of warmth and comfort in the room. MDF is no less durable material. Wood chips are not harmful to humans. However, in the manufacture of such panels, synthetic resins are used, which can release toxins.

Minuses

Rooms lined with wooden clapboard have many disadvantages. Firstly, although the material looks attractive, it is boring and of the same type. The only way to freshen up the interior a little is to paint the wood panels.

As for plastic, it is unsafe from an environmental point of view, not strong enough. The plastic panel is easy to deform. Natural wood material is quickly destroyed by constant exposure to moisture, is prone to the formation of fungus and mold, and wood is expensive.

MDF panels are also subject to rapid destruction. Products made from such material are more original and diverse, but wood chip panels serve much less than similar products made from natural wood.

Important nuances

Lining can be made from different breeds, has different lengths and widths. Before proceeding to the purchase of material, it is necessary not only to take into account the features of the room that is planned to be finished, but also the conditions in which the panels will be stored:

products are not taken out of the packaging before the start of work;
store them on a special substrate in a horizontal position;
the room should not be damp;
products are not placed in direct sunlight.

It is important to remember that the material has an expiration date, and you need to familiarize yourself with it before buying. Preliminary calculations are carried out, a scheme is drawn up. It is necessary to purchase lining with a margin of at least 10%.

How to prepare material?

How to properly sheathe a room with clapboard so that there are no problems in the future? To do this, you need to be well prepared for finishing work. It is necessary to prepare material and walls for them.

The lining must undergo the following processing:

High-quality processing of the material helps not only to improve the aesthetic characteristics of the material, but also to extend the life of the panels. If there is no desire to engage in such manipulations, then you can purchase already processed material, only it will cost much more.

Room preparation

Before sheathe a room in an apartment with clapboard, you need to prepare the walls for work. If you skip this stage, then over time the panels may not withstand constant contact with moisture, and you will have to correct errors.

If there is a fungus on the wall, it must be treated with an antiseptic. After that, the walls will become resistant to fire and mold. Required condition preparatory stage - the use of a water-repellent solution.

You can add an additional layer thermal insulation material. Can be used as a heater mineral wool, and polystyrene foam will perfectly protect the room from extraneous sounds. To protect against steam, a vapor barrier film is used.

Mounting methods

How to sheathe a room in the country with clapboard? There are many mounting options and materials with which you can work. Small boards are attached to a special frame, while the fixation can be external and hidden. For work, decorative screws, ordinary nails, kleimers and staplers can be used.

Regardless of what type of fasteners will be used, all work must be done as carefully as possible. Otherwise, chips and cracks may appear on the wood, which will spoil the appearance of the panels.

The easiest way to fasten - through. All work is carried out as quickly and easily as possible. Self-tapping screws are fixed through the front part, pre-marking is made and holes for fasteners are drilled. This is necessary so that the wood does not crack. The self-tapping screw is twisted so that it “drowns” a little in the wood.

Then the place of fastening is either covered with special plastic plugs, or puttied. If you sheathe a room with clapboard using just this method, it may not look the best.

The most attractive option is the use of decorative carnations. However, they are very fragile and must be handled with extreme care. Hidden nails that do not have a hat are very popular. They are hammered at an angle, so the fasteners are invisible.

If the panels are laid from top to bottom, it is possible to sheathe the room with clapboard using brackets. However, for this you need to purchase a professional stapler. When the lining is thin, for example, in the case of plastic material, special clamps can be used. They are invisible, and installation is carried out as quickly as possible.

Lathing installation

Sheathing the room with a clapboard with their own hands, they first draw up a diagram and only then securely fix the grate for fastening the panels to the wall. The reliability and quality of the entire structure depends on it. There are a few things to keep in mind while doing the job. important rules:

The wall must be dry, the timber for the crate is treated with water-repellent and refractory impregnations.
The slats are placed perpendicular to the wooden panels.
The distance between the rails should be approximately 45 centimeters.
Be sure to leave a small gap between the floor and the ceiling.
Using a professional building level, check the evenness of the frame.

Installation of lining

Work begins with the fact that the boards are brought into the room and left there for 1-2 days. This is necessary so that the lining gets used to the microclimate in the room. Otherwise, the products may be slightly deformed. It is important to work in a warm room with a low level of humidity.

Most often, installation is done horizontally. In this case, the first panel is placed so that the spike looks up. Start work from the corner of the room. The very first steps must be taken with building level to avoid unevenness. After installing the first element and checking it by level, the rest of the panels are fixed. First they grovel and only then are fixed.

To sheathe a room with clapboard in a vertical way, they act in exactly the same way. All actions are repeated, only changing the position of the panels. For the vertical method, it is better to use wider boards, then the finish will look more attractive. Experienced workers can install the lining in just one day.

How to draw corners

Many people wonder what a room lined with clapboard looks like. Photos of examples of work are in our article. Such a room has a harmonious, neat and modern look. However, the overall picture can be spoiled by ugly and poorly processed corners.

To solve the problem, you can pre-purchase special “boats” at the hardware store. These products are specially designed for finishing corners. They perfectly hide the junction and the gap.

If planed timber was used for finishing, then there is no need to buy special skirting boards. The material is firmly and tightly attached to the bars, making the corner look more attractive and professional.

Finishing stage

After the lining is securely fixed, you can proceed to the decorative component. Such material must be varnished, which will extend the life of the wood and make it more attractive.

Previously, the lining must be degreased, it should not contain dirt, dust, soap stains. To apply varnish, use the usual paint brush. First, it is recommended to carry out a preparatory impregnation with a stain, after which the varnish is applied in two layers (even three is possible).

How to update a room lined with clapboard? To do this, you can simply paint the walls of the room with paint. When it comes to the youth room, you can choose even the most extreme shades. If there are chips or cracks on the wood, they are masked with wood putty, the material is painted and varnished. As a result, the room becomes modern and stylish. On the wall, you can also depict a beautiful pattern or pattern.

Instead of a conclusion

So, we figured out how to sheathe a room using a material such as lining. Experts note that this is a high-quality and relatively inexpensive construction material. It is easy to work with him, and even a beginner can carry out all the work. At the same time, it is not necessary to carry out dusty and dirty work, to level the surface for a long time, to prime and putty it. All flaws are hidden inside the structure, while the walls look perfect.

The only logical option for finishing a log house or log house- wood paneling. Of course, the walls of the bathroom and the bathroom can be partially or completely tiled, and at the sink and stove of the working triangle of the kitchen, an apron can be made of tiles, but no more. All other surfaces must comply with the general style. And the most common way is to decorate the walls with clapboard in a wooden house. The installation itself does not take much time, and the choice of wood species and panel profiles is very large.

Interior decoration wooden house lining organically fits into the rustic style

Lining grade

Under the general name "lining" in the catalogs of manufacturers and sellers there are at least a dozen varieties of wooden sheathing boards. And since there is no single standard, and each domestic manufacturer works according to its own specifications, they all differ from each other in size and type of profile. Even in determining the grade of lining according to the quality of wood and the cleanliness of surface treatment, there are certain "liberties" of interpretation.

Important! It is necessary to determine which lining is better for interior decoration of a house only on the basis of their own ideas about classes and quality. "Premium" or "extra" - this is from the evil one. With such high-profile names, sellers are simply trying to attract a buyer.

According to the "old" domestic GOST (for profile parts made of wood), there are two grades. They conventionally divide products into "transparent" and "opaque" coatings. In fact, there are two varieties - I and II.

Eurolining (which is not necessarily brought from Europe) must comply with the European standard DIN 68126, and there are three grades - A, B, C.

The prefix "euro" does not mean high quality at all - there is also a second grade

The choice of lining

Conventionally, the entire range of lining can be divided into four large classes:

Domestic profiles. The simplest is a quarter board. It is rarely used, since there is no convenient “thorn-to-groove” connection. The profiles “standard” and “collective farmer” (“calm”) are more common. In the first case, at the ends of the front panel, the chamfer is standard (at an angle of 45°), in the second, it is rounded.

Eurolining. Differs in a deeper groove and the presence of a "shelf" in front of an elongated spike. There are also two versions: the standard eurolining has beveled chamfers on the front surface, the “soft line” has rounded ones.

timber imitation. By the type of profile, this is a typical “standard” lining, but only more powerful. And although there is overlap at the boundaries of the size ranges, the difference lies in the purpose. Imitation of a bar is used when it is necessary to preserve the style of a "bar" house during finishing. Therefore, this type of panels is mounted mainly horizontally (and the lining is more often vertical).

Imitation of a bar is wider, and it completely repeats the laying of its "full-length" counterpart

Block house. The scope of application is the same as that of the imitation of timber. But in this case, the front surface of the panel has an oval profile, which, during installation, repeats the relief of the wall made of logs. For interior decoration choose the thinnest panels. They are mounted exclusively horizontally.

If the lining of coniferous wood is mainly allowed to finish the facade, then for the interior the choice is much wider. In addition to the "popular" pine or larch, you can find offers for the sale of lining made of cedar, oak, linden, ash and even exotic overseas species.

For living rooms there are no restrictions on operating conditions and humidity conditions. The only room where high humidity and wet conditions are dangerous for wood is the bathroom. In this case, it is better to use a lining with factory processing - the usual technology of “staining” with antiseptics protects only the top layer, and vacuum impregnation at the factory makes the wood in the “mass” invulnerable to moisture and fungal attack, including from the wrong side. Another modern version"factory" protection - heat treatment of panels.

Good to know! Impregnation is one of the most effective methods impregnation, since during the impregnation process, air is removed from the pores of the wood, and an antiseptic solution is “pushed” into its place under pressure.

There are also such types of lining profiles as “land house”, finca and a whole subspecies of “wooden wallpaper”, which differ from ordinary lining and eurolining by the complex relief of the front surface. It's decorative wooden panels, which are used in doses - for finishing small areas.

Lining "brick" has a relief similar to brickwork

On our website you can get acquainted with the most popular projects of wooden houses from construction companies presented at the exhibition of houses "Low-Rise Country".

Technology

The clapboard decoration inside the house can be decomposed into several main stages: preparation, installation of the crate, fastening of the panels, installation of additional profiles.

Preparation and installation of the crate

Sheathing with clapboard of the inner walls of a wooden house occurs along the crate. And this is one of the few opportunities for hidden laying of electrical networks. Of course, you can run cables and wires under the floor surface or in the attic over the ceiling, but the vertical sections to sockets and switches must be pulled along the walls. And this is not a brick or building concrete blocks- in a log or beam already standing house it is very difficult to cut the channel, especially considering the constant "breathing" of a wooden house.

And here the main thing is to properly lay the cables and install the sockets. The peculiarity of a wooden house is that all cables of power circuits with hidden wiring on a combustible base must pass through metal pipes(steel or copper). These are the requirements of the PUE. And the wall thickness should ensure the localization of the cable in case of a short circuit - the pipe walls should not “burn out” from the arc. Therefore, neither plastic nor metal corrugation is suitable here.

As an alternative to hidden wiring under the lining - retro style with open wiring on ceramic insulators

On our website you can find contacts of construction companies that offer home insulation services. You can directly communicate with representatives by visiting the exhibition of houses "Low-Rise Country".

First stage preparatory work- laying pipes, installing metal boxes for sockets and switches. And already based on the diameter of the pipe and the height of the boxes, they choose the cross section of the beam for the crate.

The lining must be delivered in advance so that the wood can adapt to the operating conditions. Usually they are kept for several days, even if the wood is seasoned and has its own normalized moisture content.

Necessarily! If the lining is packed, then it must be unpacked.

During this time, the timber for the crate must be treated with an antiseptic.

The next step is marking under the crate. The lining is usually mounted vertically, and the block house and timber imitation are horizontally. The crate is made perpendicular to the panels.

Combined wall decoration with clapboard in a wooden house

Note! Sometimes the lining is laid diagonally. In this case, the crate can also be made vertical, but with a smaller step.

The step of laying out the lathing beam depends on the thickness of the panels - the larger it is, the wider the step. The recommended layout range is 50-80 cm. And a specific value is chosen such that from corner to corner the crate bars stand at approximately the same distance.

Video description

Concise and accessible about the three main mistakes preparatory phase explained in the following video:

Installation of lining

Finishing the house with clapboard in each room starts from the corner that is “in plain sight”. At this point, both walls should converge in equal, and preferably whole, panels. But if the skin ends in a very narrow strip at the other corner, then it will look unattractive. Therefore, before starting installation, it is necessary to calculate the number of whole panels and the width of the "remainder". If it turns out to be narrow, then the installation must begin with a trimmed panel.

Along the perimeter of the sheathed plane, it is necessary to leave small gaps to the adjacent surfaces

The first panel has a groove from the corner outwards. If the panel is intact, then with a spike in the corner. Fastening to the crate from the side of the spike is carried out with thin nails, which are driven in at such a distance from the corner that their hats can be covered with a decorative corner.

From the side of the groove, the lining is attached to the crate with clamps.

The next panel is inserted into the groove of the first. If they are lining a bathroom or a bathroom, then they do not drive it to the end, leaving 1-2 mm to compensate for changes in size with fluctuations in humidity.

Video description

The whole sequence of work is clearly shown in the video:

Important! It is also impossible to back-to-back connect lining panels for interior decoration of the house seasonal residence.

Features of interior decoration with block house and timber imitation

Only thin and narrow panels of this type of lining can be mounted on clamps, other sizes are mounted on nails or self-tapping screws. But if a wooden house is a seasonal residence, and in winter there are “arrivals” in it, then in any case it is better to choose traditional mechanical fasteners.

There are two options for fastening with screws:

open method- for "thick" panels;

through the base of the spike, or hidden method (for panels of medium thickness).

Fastening through the base of the spike is more difficult, but this method is the most reliable for thick panels

To decorate the corners of a block house, one of four methods is used:

washed down the panels at an angle of 45°;

through the bridging bar with a side equal to the thickness of the panel in the wave;

with a wooden corner or two boards connected by an angle;

panel fit on one side of the wall under the profile of the other wall, but for this the layout is shifted relative to each other by half the width of the panel.

It is the last docking option that allows you to get the most reliable imitation of the room inside wooden frame from round logs. Although the execution of a figured cutout will require some skill in marking and fitting. And it will take longer.

This method of designing corners requires precise marking and jewelry ownership of the tool.

Conclusion is a last resort...

There are also options for finishing a wooden house: slatted panels made of fiberboard and PVC. But they are used extremely rarely - only in case of urgent need to make repairs at the lowest possible cost. Fiberboard tolerates high humidity worse, and the laminated surface is easily damaged. Plastic lining in a wooden house will naturally look only in the bathroom or bathroom.

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