Base for laying tiles on the floor. Surface preparation for laying tiles

Ceramic tile continues to be one of the most popular floor coverings, despite the emergence of a large number of fashion novelties. It has established itself as a practical and easy-care material, durable enough and very aesthetically fitting into the interior. The complexity of laying tiled flooring can be called relative. This work may well be done independently, but a person without experience at first will need a consultant and assistant. Only perfect installation can ennoble the room and ensure the durability and reliability of the repairs made. One of the conditions that must be observed when installing a ceramic coating is the thorough preparation of the floor for tiles. Otherwise, all the efforts made may result, after some time, in a violation of stability in the tiled canvas, the appearance of cracks and the loss of individual fragments of the tile.

Types of rough coating

Laying tiles can be done on almost any type of subfloor.

The only exception is carpet. Its soft, fleecy surface cannot serve as a good base for a tile floor. All other materials, even fairly soft linoleum and vinyl, can be used for this purpose. The old ceramic coating is suitable for use if it is sufficiently reliable and stable. Even a cracked surface will not interfere if the entire tile is firmly in place. The only thing that will need to be done is to walk the grinder on a glossy surface to make it less smooth. Nevertheless, concrete floors will still be the ideal basis for tiles. A hard and durable surface will significantly increase the life of the laid tiles. In relation to them, preliminary preparation will also have to be carried out, but after its completion, confidence in the good quality of laying the tiled floor will increase significantly.

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Laying tiles on a concrete surface

Scheme of laying on a cement-sand screed.

A concrete surface that has not previously served as a base for flooring is likely to require little effort and complex preparatory work. The only thing that will need to be done is to carefully examine it, giving Special attention the joints between the plates and the places where they adjoin the wall. Large gaps will need to be filled with cement-sand mortar. The same will need to be done with the pits, and the bumps should be leveled with the surface with a grinder. The biggest problem may be the horizontal deviation of the floor level. These values are not subject to such strictness as when laying a laminate or parquet board, but when laying tiles on an uneven base, it will not be possible to achieve perfect joining even when using a thick layer of glue. Taking into account the fact that the tile that will be subsequently laid is not the cheapest building material, it would be unreasonable to save money and effort in preparing the base, but it is better to carry out a cement screed to level the horizontal level.

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Carrying out a cement screed

Many types of ready-made self-leveling mixtures have appeared on sale, but their cost is not democratic. Not so complicated procedure Do-it-yourself mixing cement, sand and water can save you a significant amount of money. The best proportion for this compound is 1 part cement to 3 parts sand. The concrete base is preliminarily cleaned with a coarse metal brush, exposing coarse-grained inclusions. This will help the mortar to better set with the base. Then, along the perimeter of the floor, beacons are placed, which serve as guidelines for determining the level of the filled mixture.

To isolate the walls from wet cement mortar, they are protected from below with a damper tape or strips of roofing material 10-15 cm wide. This also serves to compensate for the thermal expansion of concrete when installing a warm floor. Before pouring the solution, the surface is thoroughly moistened with water. A screed thickness of 5 cm will provide good strength, while you should not increase its height, remembering that the concrete mass has a considerable weight. Installed beacons are removed after partial drying of the screed and the resulting voids are filled with a solution. For underfloor heating, it is necessary to lay a substrate of the type that is more suitable for the selected system and climatic conditions premises.

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Laying tiles on a wooden surface

Installation of a tiled coating on a wooden base is possible only if it preserves its integrity and does not rot. Weight ceramic tiles, additionally increased due to the adhesive composition, can lead to deformation of the wooden floor, its cracking and destruction. Plank floors, which, when examined, look unsuitable to withstand a large load, are best dismantled. It is more expedient to get rid of the rotten subfloor, which will no longer be helped by any surface preparation. If wooden planks have a reliable fortress, it is enough to make sure that they are well attached to the logs and there are no too wide gaps between them.

Loose floorboards are fixed with self-tapping screws or dowel-nails, and the gaps between the boards are puttied, previously reinforced with thin wood chips. The preparation of the floor from chipboard or plywood is carried out in the same way. Using a waterproofing underlay when laying tiles on wooden surface necessarily. Wood has the ability to absorb moisture well and change size with temperature changes, and the insulation of the subfloor will protect the tiled floor from instability.

Before you start laying laminate flooring, it is imperative to properly prepare the floor surface. If this is not done, then the finishing material for the floor will quickly deteriorate, and further operation will become impossible. Preparing the floor for laminate has its own distinctive features in accordance with the starting flooring, the functionality of the room and the type of finishing material. The master must necessarily take into account these starting criteria, which will determine further actions.

What is the preparation?

Laminate flooring has a long service life if it is properly cared for and installed with high quality. But in the process of repair, it will take a lot of effort to create ideal conditions for this type of finishing material.

Preparing the floor for laminate flooring consists of the following points:

The floor surface must be perfectly flat. There should be no slightest differences in the form of depressions or bumps. After all, at active use incorrect distribution of the load on the board due to unevenness leads to a violation of the integrity of the joint of the boards.
High humidity can lead to deformation of the laminate board, so you should take care of the quality cement screed remove all cracks and crevices. A special substrate is laid on the cement screed in order to protect the material from moisture.
You should take care of floor insulation and additional sound insulation. To do this, lay an additional layer of durable substrate. The screed itself is processed by special means, which prevent the formation of fungus, mold and the appearance of insects.

These steps are essential for preparing the floor base before laying laminate flooring. If the operation of such a floor provides for a long-term option, then you should take care of strengthening it.

Additional material

Additional material is determined according to the base surface on which the laminate will be laid. Auxiliary material is a substrate for the main finish:

To form a high-quality screed, it is additionally necessary to purchase: plaster, packaged building mix, hermetic mass.
Wood substrate can be plywood, bitumen-cork base, layers of needles.
Polyethylene foam is one of the most popular options substrates in case the room is too damp.

Other components may be needed. You can determine the need for other finishing materials if you carefully study the situation. Auxiliary mixtures and agents for stripping and processing are sometimes required.

Required Stripping Tools

Preparing a floor for a laminate requires not only experience and auxiliary material, but also the availability of appropriate tools:

A jigsaw is needed for curly cutting auxiliary pads.
Building level, with the help of which the error in the unevenness of the floor is established.
A drill that is used as the basis for mixing the screed solution.
Roller with a needle nozzle used in the process of pouring the screed.
Spatula for removing the unevenness of the old coating.

Additional tools may be needed if there are any special materials or installation conditions. For example, during the installation process itself, a screwdriver and a rubber hammer are required.

Algorithm for correct operation

Preparation of the floor for laminate flooring is carried out in several stages:

Only after completing all the steps described above, you can start laying the laminate. Otherwise, the quality and further operation of this flooring may remain in question.

Self-dismantling of the old coating

The method of dismantling the old coating depends on what material is present on the floor. If the gaps and slopes are normal, and there are no deformations and chips on the surface of the old coating, then the laminate can be laid without prior dismantling. This can be done with almost any surface except carpet. Because it can further shrink, which will adversely affect the laminate.

Do-it-yourself preparation of floors for laminate flooring is carried out by dismantling the old coating:

Carpet or linoleum is removed as follows: you need to unscrew the sills and skirting boards, pry off the old coating with a metal spatula, remove the material and vacuum it.
Tiles or tiles will have to be dismantled with a small chisel and a rubberized hammer. The chisel must be fixed in the seam between the tiles at an angle of 45 degrees. Lightly hit the chisel with a hammer. All work is done with the utmost care.
The floor from boards or plywood is dismantled by cutting parts at the junction of the elements, that is, at the seams.

The quality of laying will depend on the optimal deviation parameters: a drop of less than 3 millimeters per 1 linear meter and a maximum of 1 millimeter of clearance per 1 linear meter.

Features of preparing a wooden floor

Preparation of a wooden floor for a laminate requires compliance with two main points: the difference between the boards is a maximum of 2 millimeters per 2 meters of length; a maximum of 4 millimeters of slope per 2 meters of space.

Now we will describe the process of preparing a wooden floor for a laminate with our own hands:

Small defects can be removed by cycling. If the problem is big, then on an uneven floor you can mount chipboard sheets, plywood.
Completely eliminate squeaks and other extraneous sounds, which in the future can lead to deformation of the laminate itself.
If leveling with chipboard did not give the desired effect, then you should think about the complete dismantling of the old wooden floor.
Sometimes, instead of plywood and chipboard, a self-leveling screed is used, which is mounted in accordance with certain rules.

When the surface is smooth and clean, you can mount the substrate. The elimination of large defects between the boards is carried out with the help of building foam, sealant.

Concrete floor treatment

Preparation of the concrete floor for laminate flooring is carried out in accordance with the initial state of the concrete. Sometimes it is necessary to pour a self-levelling compound over the entire surface. It happens that a partial restoration of the concrete base may be necessary.

The new self-levelling fill is mounted like this:

The concrete is primed.
Filled with screed.
It is leveled with a prickly roller.
After drying, rolling is carried out.

Partial restoration is carried out using cement mortar. Focal repair work is carried out in accordance with all the rules: holding the level, grinding.

Features of laying laminate in the apartment

The floors in the apartments are exclusively concrete, so all installations are carried out in accordance with the conditions for preparing the concrete coating. If there is on the floor old linoleum, then you can also leave it and lay the laminate on the starting surface.

Preparation for the laminate has its own characteristics associated with mounting the lining. If the laminate is laid on the ground floor, then auxiliary waterproofing is required. It is organized using polyethylene with a thickness of 0.01 cm. Polyethylene in the seams is fixed with construction tape.

The lining spreads on the same principle as polyethylene. Its joints must match the connection points of the polyethylene base. This will help increase the effectiveness of waterproofing.

Plywood for flooring

The floor is prepared for laminate flooring with plywood quite often. This trick is used to improve the surface quality of a wooden floor. Often plywood is also used for the following purposes:

Strengthening the wooden floor.
Floor insulation.
Improved sound insulation.

First, lags of small height are fixed. Plywood sheets are applied to them, the height of which is not more than 12 millimeters and not less than 10 millimeters. The distance between the screws is no more than 15 centimeters.

Condition of the flooring before laying the laminate

Preparing the floor for laying laminate is not only the successful formation of an even base, but also correct installation floor covering. First of all, it is worth checking the quality of the self-leveling screed, if any. The screed must be dry. Some brands guarantee complete drying in a week. Normally, all moisture from the screed "disappears" after two weeks.

If the alignment was carried out using plywood sheets or chipboard, then the seams between the plates must be sealed with sealant. Mounting foam is used less frequently, as this material can shrink over time.

Depending on the characteristics of the microclimate of the room, the lining is installed. It is guided by it, you need to make the choice of substrate material. Additional materials for insulation are laid on the lining and fixed adhesive tapes.

Where can I learn the secrets of laying laminate flooring?

To learn some secrets regarding the correct laying of the laminate, you can turn to qualified specialists who independently installed and dismantled floor coverings.

It is quite difficult to lay out a laminate in an apartment with your own hands, so it is better to seek help from professionals. If you still want to learn how to lay it yourself, then for you there are special courses or forums for preparing floors for laminate, where you can learn how to work with building materials of various configurations. Recommendations can also be obtained using paid consultations of a specialist.

For those who want to do quality repair in the shortest possible time, self-leveling floors will ideal solution, as they dry much faster than conventional concrete coatings, they look beautiful and allow you to do all the work yourself. However, in order for the result to be beautiful and serve for a long time, high-quality preparation of the base for the self-leveling floor and its laying in compliance with all prescribed rules are required. By itself, the polymer or cement material of self-leveling coatings is easy to install, but if the base is not prepared correctly, then even the highest quality and expensive coverage won't last long.

Features of the preparation of the base

The preparation and pouring of the self-leveling floor must be carried out strictly in a certain sequence, observing all the prescribed rules for preparing the base and the mixture itself, which in most cases are indicated on the packaging from the manufacturer's factory. In case of violation of the recommendations, the coating most often cracks or peels off the base, which significantly reduces its service life.

For quality work you will need:

Broom and scoop for removing large debris;
Construction vacuum cleaner for major cleaning of the surface from dust;
Serpyanka mesh for sealing seams;
Mounting foam or sealed putty for sealing joints and cracks;
Putty knife.

In the vast majority of cases, the structure is made on a concrete or cement base, less often on a wooden one. Any base based on cement and sand has one significant drawback - it is a high degree of absorption of dust and other foreign particles. It is for this reason that the quality of adhesion of the polymer to cement is significantly degraded. A vacuum cleaner is used to remove dust.

Important. When is the floor preparation done? cement base, it is better to use an industrial vacuum cleaner with a water filter, since the cement particles are so small that a conventional dry filter passes most of them back, trapping only large debris. Also, the nozzle of the vacuum cleaner should have brushes for better cleaning.

Next, you should purchase a special impregnation for cement surfaces in a hardware store. The task of this impregnation is to close the pores of concrete and small cracks to prevent dust and possible appearance air bubble when laying polymeric material.

If the base under the self-leveling floor is covered tiles, then you need to make sure that the tile is held very tightly, otherwise it is better to dismantle it. If the tile is of high quality, then it must also be cleaned of dust, degreased and coated with a special primer based on polyurethane, which will ensure high-quality adhesion to the floor.

For your information. In preparation wooden base, its surface must be carefully leveled by grinding and a rough surface created with sandpaper to ensure better adhesion. If the wood is relatively fresh, then it is advisable to impregnate it with special solutions that will give additional strength and will not allow it to absorb moisture.

Processing of concrete joints

Preparing the surface of concrete or concrete floor slabs begins with cleaning the surface from the remnants of the old finishing material. All concrete slabs have shrinkage joints that must be thoroughly cleaned, then primed with a concrete primer and sealed. mounting foam, putty or sealant. If there are small holes or cracks on the surface of the plates, then they must be repaired with a moisture-resistant putty using a sickle mesh, which will prevent their further expansion and ensure the integrity of the putty. A similar sealing operation should be carried out at the joints between the floor and the wall using putty and sickle mesh.

Floor surface primer

The preparation of the base for self-leveling floors ends with the application of a primer, which is designed to provide high adhesion of materials. Experts recommend using a special primer containing a fine fraction to impregnate the surface. quartz sand, this will make the surface rough and provide high quality adhesion of materials. The surface of the substrate must not be smooth, as this will impair adhesion and affect the leveling of the layer. It is advisable to apply the primer in several layers and after each layer to withstand the drying time of at least 4 hours. After applying the last layer of soil, it is necessary to dry the surface for 24 hours and only then the base under the self-leveling floor will be ready for further work.

Installation of beacons

The installation of beacons is carried out only if you need to first lay the main layer, and already pour the finishing layer on top of it. If your floor surface is fairly even and you plan to fill the finish layer with rhinestones, then beacons are not required.

Preparing the floor for a self-leveling floor with a base layer requires the installation of special beacons that help control the evenness of the application and avoid various depressions. For self-leveling floors, there are special beacons that are installed on the concrete surface using a water level and attached to putty or sealant. Ethics beacons can not be removed after pouring.

For your information. The initial base coat is usually made from coarser, low flow materials and is applied and leveled with a rule and trowel. Many craftsmen, creating a base for self-leveling floors, make special shrink cuts at the junction of floor slabs, this prevents possible cracking during solidification if the layer is thick enough, later these seams are sealed.

After the base surface is prepared and beacons are installed, we can assume that everything is ready and start preparing the self-leveling floor for subsequent pouring.

Laying tiles is necessary only after the preparation of the floor has been completed. It is not difficult to make it if you carefully study the instructions.

Tiles should be laid on a hard, level surface.

After doing necessary work to prepare the floor for tiles, the base must have a flat surface that will adhere well to the tiled floor.

As a base for mounting tiles made of tiles or plastic, you can use a specially prepared surface made of various materials. Installation of tiles on the floor can be carried out on the following types of coatings:

cement mortar;
tile adhesive;
tile mastic.

Checking the base for strength

Materials and tools:

The old floor is dismantled, the base under it is leveled and primed.

hammer;
cement;
sand;
water.

Preparing the floor for laying tiles is approximately the same for all types of base. The only difference is which adhesive composition is chosen.

First of all, it is necessary to check whether the base has sufficient strength. If the base is a concrete screed, it is checked for strength.

To do this, the entire surface is tapped with a hammer. If a ringing sound is produced when the hammer strikes, then the coating is considered to be of high quality. At the same time, the concrete mortar should not collapse or crumble.

If it turns out that the concrete screed has insufficient strength, you need to remove the areas that crumble from hammer blows. Neither their place needs to be poured with new concrete.

The coverage must be even.

Then it is checked whether the base is sufficiently even. In order to be able to lay tiles, it is necessary that the underlying coating be even to the light.

Materials and tools:

rule;
building level;
slats;

The surface is checked for light using the rule. In this case, a two-meter rule made of aluminum is used.

Scheme of the floor under the tiles.

If the tiles will be laid on glue, then the gap between the rule and the coating should not be more than 3 mm.

When laying on mastic, the clearance should not be more than 4 mm. When laying on cement mortar - 8 mm. All irregularities, defects should be noted with chalk.

Then check the horizontal level of the floor. The work is done building level, having a length of 1.5 m. When measuring, the slope should not be more than 0.2% of the required length. That is, the slope should be no more than 4 mm per 2 linear meters of the rule.

Such a check is carried out if it is necessary to lay tiles with a flat surface in various rooms. In the event that the installation will be performed in the shower with a slope towards the drain, you need to put a rail of a certain thickness under the rule. In this case, a horizontally located rule will show the required slope.

How to eliminate irregularities in the base: instructions

Materials and tools:

Scheme of a wooden floor under a tile.

cement;
sand;
water;
primer;
boaster;
perforator;
3% hydrochloric acid solution;
respirator;
protective glasses;
protective gloves;
metal brushes.

All protrusions and depressions that were found during the check must be eliminated. With the help of a scarpel, you need to remove the protrusions.

Holes must be filled with cement. In the event that there are a lot of protrusions on the concrete base and they are large, then they are eliminated with the help of a perforator, which is turned on in the jackhammer mode.

If paint remains on the surface, it must be removed. Various oil stains are removed with a 3% hydrochloric acid solution or special means.

When processing surfaces chemicals it is necessary to use personal protective equipment: respirators, gloves, goggles. Work must be carried out in a well-ventilated area.

After removing irregularities, to prepare the floor for laying tiles, it is necessary to repair the joints between the floor slabs and between the walls and the floor. The joints are sealed with concrete grade M-150. Before laying concrete, the surface must be moistened with water.

If the tiled surface is going to be arranged in the bathroom, then it is necessary to perform waterproofing after concrete embedding.

Then the concrete coating must be treated with a metal brush.

Before installing the tile, the cement screed is primed.

Preparing a wooden floor for tiles

Materials and tools:

antiseptic;
ruberoid;
reinforcing mesh;
cement;
sand;
microfiber.

How is wood flooring prepared for tiling?

The tile can also be laid on a base made of wood. Hardwood floors require special preparation.

First of all, wood flooring treated with an antiseptic solution. The floor is then dried. After that, 2 layers of roofing material are laid on a wooden coating. This is necessary for moisture insulation. Then, above the layer of roofing material, you need to install a mesh of reinforcement, which has holes with a diameter of 10 cm. After that, a cement-sand screed is made, to which microfiber is added.

You can not lay tiles on linoleum and carpet. These covers are removed. Then the remaining glue is removed. If the floor covered with linoleum has a flat surface, you can lay cement-fiber boards on it, and then lay the tiles.

If the tiles are going to be mounted on a warm floor system, which is covered concrete screed, then the system is turned on for 2 days. Then turn off the system and lay the tile.

You can turn on the underfloor heating system again 3 days after the grouting is done.

If the tiles are mounted on thermal mats, they are first turned off. Installation is carried out without an additional screed device, directly on the tile adhesive, which can be used for underfloor heating.

After a thorough and thorough preparation of the floor according to the above rules, proceed to the installation of tiles. Thanks to preparatory work, made according to the instructions, the laying of tiles will be of high quality, and the tile coating will be strong, reliable and durable.

As folk wisdom says, the initial duties of a man include three things - raising a son, growing a garden and building a house. Not everyone has the opportunity to build their own building, but everyone can try their hand at repairing. Preparing the base of the floor is a completely man's job, which in turn does not require any special skills, and you can easily do it yourself, the main thing is to take into account some of the nuances that may lie in wait for you on the way to the ideal result.

Firstly, there is a significant difference between preparing the base for a decorative floor and pouring the floor from scratch, for example, in private homes. Secondly, the technologies for laying the base under various materials, and there are plenty of their varieties - cork, self-leveling floor, floor coverings such as linoleum, carpet, laminate and so on. In our article, we will try to reveal the most important points gender organization.

floor on the ground

Ground floor

First, we will consider the floors from scratch, that is, the floor that is laid on a soil base. The instruction for their construction comes down to several main tasks:

In order for all work to go smoothly, the site for laying the concrete floor must be carefully planned, compacted the soil in order to prevent concrete deformation and cracking, lay a sand cushion.
Its thickness depends on the parameters of the future floor, climate conditions, elevation level ground water, type of soil, depth of soil freezing and ranges from 30 centimeters to 1 meter.
The next stage of work is the compaction of the bulk cushion with moisture and tamping, the filling of crushed stone or gravel, and the tamping of the resulting base.
Next, the concrete is poured.

Preparation of the concrete base

If you already have a concrete base, but no screed, then the preparation of the concrete floor base includes:

Examination of the base for deformation, cracks, cracks, drops.
Elimination of identified defects by filling slotted voids, dismantling and installing a new coating instead of a deformed one, grinding the highest points of drops or adding concrete footing.
Thorough cleaning of the base under the concrete from dust, dirt, residues of materials.
Laying waterproofing to prevent moisture absorption, capillary suction of water from the ground under concrete floors.
Installation of insulation and soundproofing (if necessary).

Concrete floor

Underfloor heating base

If you decide to equip in your house or apartment, then you have to:

Eliminate all floor irregularities.
Install waterproofing.
Place the thermal insulation layer.
Bring to the optimum indicators of room temperature, humidity of the base and air.
Carry out the installation of coolants.
Finish the work with a screed of the resulting floor.

Preparing the base for underfloor heating will require you to purchase hydro and thermal insulation materials, heat carriers, cement mixture. For waterproofing, roofing material or polyethylene films are most often taken. If we are talking about the latter, then in addition to them, you also need to buy a special tape that glues all the joints of this material. The film is overlapped to prevent moisture from penetrating the underfloor heating structure, which has a devastating effect on both the system and the insulation you used.

Near the walls, the film should go a little on the vertical surface and cover the lower parts of the walls. For thermal insulation, you can use polystyrene foam, polystyrene foam, polyurethane foam and other fairly dense materials. Do not forget about some expansion of the concrete mass. You must provide expansion gaps that can be filled with damper tape. It is laid along the walls and wound up 2 centimeters above the level of the future floor.

wood base

Substrate preparation is a little different from concrete sub-base work. Of course, the priorities are similar - the rough foundation must be strong, reliable, clean, dry, even. An audit of the entire floor structure is mandatory. You must make sure that the lags are not touched by fungus and rot, they are not deformed or broken. The lag step is also important, because if the coating is massive in weight, more economical option simply can't handle the load.

If everything is in order, you can begin to study the evenness of the floors and the reliability of the fixed boards. They should not walk, bend. Large height differences between the boards, chipping, holes are not allowed. They can be easily removed either by puttying or building.

All paint and varnish materials must be removed (varnish is removed with white spirit, paint - with a special building hair dryer). If all the base is put in order, the turn of antiseptics has come. At this stage, it is not worth saving - the better you process, the longer the structure will last you. Now it's the turn of waterproofing - it must be laid, for example, when preparing the base of the floor for tiles. If you want to apply it exactly to the prepared surface, then it is recommended to lay a lightweight screed on top of the waterproofing. It can be organized in three ways:

By reducing the screed layer to 3 centimeters using a metal mesh.
Replacing the standard solution with polymer screeds.
Using KS glue with a liquid glass base.

Foundation for poured floors

If your plans include a self-leveling floor, then your actions may vary depending on the base. If the base is wood, then the coating is first cleaned, sanded, the distance between the floorboards is sealed, dents and irregularities are puttied. After the draft floor, you need to carefully clean it again and install the self-leveling floor.

pouring base

If the rough screed under the self-leveling floor is cement or concrete, then cleaning is also unavoidable, often a vacuum cleaner is used for these purposes. To increase the strength of the concrete base, it is impregnated with special mixtures (impregnations for concrete or cement). Also, the installation of a self-leveling floor can be carried out on old tiles. Before making such a decision, make sure that the tile is firmly bonded to the floor, does not wobble, does not have serious deformations, and is laid fairly evenly. If in doubt, it is better to dismantle the tiles, level and clean the base and pour the floor over the cement screed. If you are confident in the quality of the tile fastening, then before pouring the floor, it must be thoroughly cleaned, degreased, and primed.

Screed as the basis for future coverage

If you need to prepare the base of the floor yourself for any coating, then it is quite possible that you will stop at a regular screed. This layer may consist of a concrete or cement mixture, sand, pebbles and other similar materials.

Its functional purpose is as follows:

The screed evens out the unevenness of the bases.
Creates a strong and rigid slab on which the flooring will be placed.
Stabilizes the indoor climate.
Can distribute heat (in case of underfloor heating).
For technical rooms it is possible to use without additional finishing.

Floor screed in the apartment

Mostly in residential premises, a screed on heat insulators is used, it is easy to organize it yourself. In addition to organizing a solid base for the finished floor, this type of screed additionally provides thermal insulation and. This is especially true for those living in panel houses people, residents of one-story buildings with a low foundation without basements, owners of apartments on the lower ground floor.

This type of screed is divided according to the materials used into:

Cement.
Concrete.
With additives of artificial resins.
anhydride.
Mosaic and so on. There are actually a lot of subspecies, it makes absolutely no sense to consider everything, and we will concentrate on two - the most popular.

Cement based screed

As the name implies, this type of screed is made from a cement mixture with the addition of sand and crushed stone (gravel). Expert advice recommends adding no more than 25% liquid to the mixture. For such screeds, both light and heavy types of solutions can be used. When laying this type of screed, expansion joints are required to prevent damage to the coating.

Concrete based screeds

These straps are made from concrete mix high grades and are supplemented with various fillers in the form of crushed stone, sand, gravel and other additives. Concrete, according to its severity, has 5 categories (especially heavy, heavy, lightweight, light and extra light), which are used in rooms with various purposes - the more serious the load, the heavier the concrete for the base.

To prepare a concrete coating for a screed, the surface is cleaned, leveled, dried, waterproofed, heat and sound insulated, and only after the work has been done, reinforcement with a pre-calculated cell size is laid on the prepared base (if necessary) and the mixture is poured. The principles of all the main works we have listed are similar, but you can choose exactly the option that satisfies all your conditions and capabilities. Given the nuances that we told you about, you can do all the work correctly and reliably! Good luck with your work and a strong foundation for family happiness!

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