Bath insulation materials. Bath vapor barrier - for water procedures in ideal conditions

The bath has its own microclimate, which creates steam, which contributes to better comfort for taking hygiene procedures. The properties of steam differ from simple room temperature air, including density and pressure. The durability of the building depends on a well-equipped vapor barrier, no matter what materials are used for construction. Experts recommend following 6 tips for arranging a vapor barrier in a bath.

Technology Features

Used for vapor barrier simple technology. To make the ceiling vapor-tight, you must adhere to a certain scheme. On draft boards, you need to fix a rolled waterproofing (polyethylene film) or a special hydro-barrier that can be fixed with an ordinary stapler. The insulation is laid in the second layer. Its tasks are the following:

minimize the leakage of steam through the cracks of the ceiling;
to force the heat to move from cool to warm objects gradually;
Minimize the impact of outdoor air on indoor temperature.

It is difficult for one heater to cope with the functions assigned to it. Absolutely all brands of material are negatively related to moisture ingress. It also concerns the most used option - mineral wool.

put a vapor barrier.

it is recommended to leave a gap

Wall vapor barrier

No material can compare with the latter in terms of thermal conductivity. But if water constantly gets on it, over time it becomes a lump and stops performing its intended functions.

An important point is the protection of the insulation from getting wet from the outside and inside. This task will be performed by a vapor barrier that does not allow hot steam rising to the ceiling to moisten the insulation. To do this, for example, the same foil is attached to the material from above.

The use of vapor barrier in the steam room

The duration of maintaining the desired temperature in the steam room depends on a high-quality vapor barrier device on the ceiling. The resulting steam rises to the top of the room and tends to go outside. Along the way, he must meet a heater and moisten it. To prevent this, put a vapor barrier.

The heating of the air in the steam room often rises to 100 degrees, and maybe more. Polyethylene film at this temperature quickly deteriorates, shrinks and bursts. For vapor barrier, modern heat-resistant materials with existing foil are installed. For example, Stizol. It performs well and warming , successfully holds heat and the created moisture. For ceiling insulation, this is a great option.

The material used is fixed with upholstery nails, it can be fastened with slats, double-sided tape, etc.

When installing vapor barrier material it is recommended to leave a gap between it and the surface of the building frame for ventilation. During the operation of the steam room, the foil is covered with the resulting condensate, which negatively affects the design of the bath. With the help of ventilation, this phenomenon is quickly eliminated.

Also, to remove condensate, it is necessary to make gutters inside the ceiling. and along the entire perimeter of the walls in compliance with the slope. The condensate receiver chute can be brought directly to the floor of the steam room.

An important requirement is to seal the seams between the layers of vapor barrier. This is done with adhesives and mastics, you can use construction tape to join the waterproofing.

Under the vapor barrier it is necessary to lay a heater. During construction, you need to work with outer side, and when performing repairs, it is necessary to make insulation with the first layer, and then fix the foil. Not only mineral wool can serve as insulation, but also many different materials, from clay to modern polystyrene plates.

Installation is performed in a slightly different way: a crate is attached to the boards, a step along the width of the vapor barrier. Then the material is nailed to the wall, and the seams are sealed with construction tape.

Next, lining is stuffed onto the crate - for example, from larch. The lining of deciduous trees looks attractive and does not emit the smell of essential oils when heated. The gap made between the cladding and the foil forms an air gap, which provides ventilation and prevents the release of condensate.

Properly applied steam and heat insulation will effectively maintain the created microclimate in the bath and bring pleasure from visiting.

A well-executed vapor barrier of the bath provides the room for taking water procedures with the necessary humidity and air temperature. In addition, it protects this structure from premature aging.

Do I need to protect the bath from exposure to steam?

The duration of operation of structures and buildings from any modern material for construction depends on a number of factors, many of which have an extremely negative effect on the elements of the structure. It is very important to neutralize them already at the stage of creating a construction project. Everyone knows that high temperature and humidity are essential attributes of a bath.

On a person, when he takes water procedures, they affect favorably. But on the building itself - on the contrary. Over time, moisture destroys the ceiling and walls of the bath. These phenomena should be combated with the help of measures that provide high-quality protection against steam. It should be borne in mind that the baths consist of several compartments, characterized by their own level of humidity. Most moisture is always available in the steam room, where, in addition, very hot air.

Slightly less water vapor in the shower room. And the most "dry" in the bath is a room for relaxation and rest, but even in it the level of moisture is always quite high. Materials for vapor barrier measures are selected so that the most reliable of them are mounted in the steam room. But less effective means to protect against steam, you can use in the relaxation room and in the shower. This will save you money, and at the same time you can make a quality vapor barrier with your own hands.

As a rule, bath rooms today are sheathed from the inside with wood materials. Through the cracks available in such a finish, hot steam will penetrate to the insulation with each of your washing, destroying both it and the structure itself.

To avoid this, a vapor barrier is performed by mounting it between the heat-insulating layer and the wooden sheathing. The walls and ceiling of the building need protection from steam. They are the ones who are subject to negative impact high humidity. Floors also require protection from condensation and water. But here we are no longer talking about vapor barrier, but about other operations - about waterproofing and.

Vapor barrier materials - which ones to choose?

The walls of the bath can be protected with any traditional and more modern materials. The main thing is that they effectively perform their task. The easiest way to do-it-yourself wall vapor barrier is with an inexpensive polyethylene film. It is, firstly, completely waterproof, and secondly, it reduces the time required to heat up the steam room.

Unfortunately, polyethylene deteriorates very quickly due to the high temperatures in the bath. Therefore, it makes sense to put films from it as a vapor barrier only in a rest room after taking bath procedures. Moreover, it is allowed to use only that polyethylene material on which there are no seams formed during its folding. It is along these seams that the film begins to literally spread during operation. This problem can be solved (for a while) by gluing the polyethylene folds with heat-resistant tape. But even in this case, polyethylene vapor barrier will not last long.

The rest room in the bath can be protected from steam with special construction cardboard - the so-called kraft paper. It has a high density, which makes it possible to slow down the process of moisture penetration into the walls. But, having been saturated with steam, it will also spread, and it will have to be changed again. Some craftsmen perform vapor barrier with roofing paper, pieces of glassine and roofing material. Theoretically, such materials are suitable for protecting bath elements from high humidity, but when the temperature rises, they release substances harmful to our body. And the "aroma" coming from such vapor barriers leaves much to be desired.

Professionals advise using modern materials when carrying out protective measures in all bath rooms. These include:

aluminum foil. She doesn't exude unpleasant odors and harmful compounds when heated, easily perceives elevated temperatures without changing its shape. It is placed on the walls of the bath with an overlap, connecting the joints between the individual strips of material with heat-resistant tape.
Vapor barrier films different brands. They are truly innovative materials for protecting the bath from moisture. Below we will take a closer look at films under the brand Izospan, which have recently become more and more in demand both among construction professionals and among amateurs to do housework with their own hands.
Foamed foil polymers. They are also quite popular, being an innovative combination of two materials at once - aluminum-coated foil and foamed polymer compound. This vapor barrier is ideal for wall insulation. But it is not recommended to mount it on the ceiling - it may well melt under the influence of high temperatures.

Materials for the vapor barrier of the ceiling, we will consider below.

Izospan - excellent protection for walls

Branded products Izospan launched in the early 2000s. This brand belongs to a Russian company Hexa. At the moment the films Izospan to protect rooms with high humidity are sold in all CIS countries, receiving only positive feedback from consumers. The line of vapor barrier films under this brand includes different materials.

The leader in consumer sympathy is considered Izospan FB- foil vapor barrier based on durable kraft paper, to which a metallized type lavsan is additionally added. This unique material is allowed to be used at temperatures above +100 °C. It has special characteristics due to which it can reflect thermal energy and at the same time perform the function of an excellent vapor barrier.

Izospan FB guarantees: a significant reduction in heat loss in the steam room through the roof and walls; protection of ceilings and walls of the bath room from moisture. vapor barrier Izospan FB completely safe from an environmental point of view. The material has all the certificates, indicating both its high efficiency and absolute harmlessness to human health. Noteworthy are other combined materials of the brand. Izospan. They can be used to protect against steam saunas and baths, as well as other rooms with high humidity.

Pay attention to the films of the following brands:

FX- complex vapor, hydro and thermal insulation made of metallized film and 2–5 mm polyethylene foam filled with gas bubbles.
FS- material from non-woven polypropylene raw materials, which is covered with a metallized layer. It perfectly protects the structural elements of the bath from the penetration of steam into them, and also protects them from moisture and reflects thermal energy.
FD- high-strength material from a woven fabric on a polypropylene basis.

It is good if the vapor barrier of the bath ceiling is carried out by the innovative films described above ( Izospan or another company). But even they are not always able to withstand the “attack” of heat and hot steam in steam rooms. Therefore, the “grandfather method” is often used - the ceiling is coated with a mixture of sawdust and ordinary clay. This composition perfectly resists steam, and when exposed to heat becomes very hard (in fact, hardened).

You can also equip the bath ceiling with fiberglass - a material that does not break when bent at different angles. Experts, in addition, recommend creating a "pie" from different materials on the ceiling so that you can be absolutely sure of its protection against steam. It is done in this way:

lay fiberglass on a rough ceiling surface;
pour a mixture (in a liquid state) over the fiberglass, which includes equal parts of sawdust, sand and clay;
on top add a mixture of liquid clay (one part) with vermiculite (three parts).

After that, you should wait for some time (in autumn and spring - about 2 months, in summer - about 14 days) until the "pie" dries, and then put a polymer heat-resistant material on it for and pour cement mortar with styrofoam chips.

Vapor barrier walls are much easier. The scheme in this case is as follows:

A crate is installed on the wooden cladding of the walls of the bath. Here you will need to correctly calculate its step. It should match the width of the film you will be using as a vaporizer. insulating material.
The selected vapor barrier is attached to the crate. This procedure is performed with adhesive tape, sewing through thin slats, nailing with small upholstery nails - the specific fastening option is indicated in the instructions for the material that you use as an insulating material.
All seams are carefully sealed (usually tape is used, which is not afraid of elevated temperatures).

Now you need to fill the wooden lining and enjoy the optimal microclimate in your bath.

In order for the bath, and especially the steam room, to keep steam perfectly, the ceiling in the bath must be insulated and vapor-insulated. Wood is a "breathable" natural material, so the vapor barrier for the ceiling in hardwood floor has a number of specific features peculiar only to this type of structure.

The principle of heat retention for a bath ceiling

The bath can be attributed to buildings with special operating conditions. Due to the fact that this is most often an unheated room, with occasional heating of air masses to high temperatures and a large amount of steam, the ceiling that perceives temperature effects as much as possible can quickly become unusable.

Depending on the budget and capabilities of the owner, the bathhouse can be a whole complex of several rooms for undressing and relaxing and a steam room itself, or a small building with a steam room and a dressing room. Regardless of the area, the ceiling must be properly insulated with a mandatory vapor barrier.

The most common method of obtaining steam for a Russian bath is the installation of a heater stove. A large amount of steam released due to temperature differences and excess humidity will settle in the form of condensate on the ceiling lining, up to the formation of large drops falling down. Poorly executed vapor barrier in wooden house will lead to blockage of the insulation, loss of its qualities, and ultimately, to excessive fuel consumption and an uncomfortable stay in the steam room.

Because of design features roofs, log baths or log baths can be divided into two types: with and without an over-ceiling "attic" space.

Depending on this, the vapor barrier device will be performed differently.

We protect the wooden ceiling from excess moisture - which vapor barrier is better

The air gap under the roof slopes will prevent heat leakage, but without additional insulation with a vapor barrier, the bath ceiling will get wet from excess moisture, and the wood will deteriorate. This can cause individual deck boards to dry out due to temperature changes and mold to form. Properly executed vapor barrier for the bath ceiling involves the installation of two vapor barriers on both sides of the insulation with a small air gap between them.

If the insulation is made not with fibrous or slab materials, but with bulk material, for example, expanded clay, the vapor barrier is laid on top of the intermediate wooden flooring, from the side of the above-ceiling space.

To lay slab insulation, it is enough to arrange a crate of timber with a two-layer membrane-type vapor barrier laid on it, with the rough (absorbing) side down.

For a bath, it is undesirable to use as a vapor barrier:

Polyethylene film, due to its excessive tightness;
Ruberoid and its varieties under the general name "euroroofing material", due to the possible seepage of bituminous impregnation through the ceiling due to high temperatures;
All types of coating vapor barrier, except for places where chimneys pass through the ceiling.

The best choice is breathable two- or three-layer membranes or foil membranes. The reflective layer of such a vapor barrier, due to the reflection of thermal waves, will significantly improve temperature regime in the bath and reduce the cost of fuel for the stove.

An economical option is laying craft cardboard impregnated with drying oil.

The vapor barrier of the ceiling in the bathroom in a wooden house is carried out using the same technology, but since maintaining a high temperature regime is less relevant in such a room, you can save on installing a foil vapor barrier.

Vapor barrier of the ceiling of a wooden bath

Bath without ceiling space, usually a building with flat roof with a slight slope, due to the lack of an air gap, it requires much more effort to insulate and vapor barrier the false ceiling. Let's take a closer look at this process.

Sequence of operations:

The vapor barrier is fixed over the entire surface of the draft ceiling with a 15-20mm projection on the walls. Adjacencies to the walls are preferably glued with sealing tapes. The vapor barrier can be installed directly on the draft ceiling or on wooden plates nailed to it with a small (no more than 1m) step;
If the width of the vapor barrier panels is not enough to cover the entire ceiling, they are fastened with an overlap of at least 15-20 mm. For installation, nails with a wide hat or staples of a construction stapler are used. It is advisable to place cardboard washers or any other sealing gaskets at the attachment points, for example, cut from the remains of a vapor barrier or any other film, in order to prevent ruptures of the vapor barrier at the points of contact with the fasteners.
A heater is laid on top of the vapor barrier. This can be polystyrene foam (cheaper foam for a bath is not desirable due to its high flammability with the release of toxic smoke upon ignition), mineral wool, glass wool, basalt slab insulation;
The insulation layer must be once again protected by a vapor barrier to protect it from internal moisture;
With a gap of 40-50 cm from the ceiling, a wooden crate is arranged for attaching the finishing lining of the ceiling.

Common ceiling finish wooden house- lining with wooden clapboard. It is appropriate to use it in a log bath. The only difference is that for filing the ceiling of the bath it is better to use wooden lining made of hardwood.

On the one hand, the use of coniferous lining will give an unforgettable forest aroma due to the release of resin during heating, on the other hand, the release of resin will gradually lead to warping of the wooden lining. There are no such restrictions for other premises of a wooden house.

The most important thing for a Russian bath is that it can hold steam for a certain time, which is so necessary to maintain an optimal microclimate. Below we consider which vapor barrier to choose for a bath, as well as their schemes for walls and roofs.

What is vapor barrier

A simple vapor barrier is a film of white or of blue color, which is homogeneous and with reinforcing fibers. The material has a dense structure, the surface can be both smooth and textured. Insulation for baths and saunas can be membrane, with a corrugated surface, and with a studded coating.

A special film for a bath is made with a coating of foil or metallized lavsan.

Why use vapor barrier materials

To create conditions in the steam room with high humidity and temperature, you need to make significant efforts and knowledge. Particular attention is paid to protecting the thermal insulation layer from excessive moisture. Thermal insulation in the bath, as a rule, is carried out with basalt wool. In dry conditions, it retains heat well and is not afraid of high temperatures.

But under the influence of moisture, its thermal insulation properties deteriorate significantly - the bath begins to lose heat. And if at the same time the insulation is also affected by frost, then it will completely collapse very quickly. It is for this reason that it is necessary to lay a layer of vapor barrier of the bath.

Reasons for the destruction of thermal insulation:

Due to moisture from inside the room. The Russian bath is distinguished by its rather high humidity, so the steam will always try to get into the rooms adjacent to the steam room. Additionally, on the street, he leaves through the heat insulator. This cannot be allowed.
Due to the moisture that occurs due to the temperature difference in the steam room, on the street and in the attic. Condensation appears even before steam is supplied, when the air in the steam room warms up by itself.

How to install vapor barrier in the bath

For the proper functioning of such a material, you need:

seal seams and joints as efficiently as possible;
provide a gap between fine finish and foil.

Sealing

Absolute sealing of the insulation seams, most likely, will not work, but it is quite possible to significantly reduce the amount of steam that will enter the insulation. You will need to overlap the foil vapor barrier for the bath, somewhere by 5-10 cm.

Joints must be glued with either double-sided tape or foil tape. You can buy it at any hardware store.

Sauna foil insulation must not be damaged. Where the film will be fixed with bars, holes will also appear. To minimize them, you should use a construction stapler. To achieve maximum quality, at the attachment points, you can walk on top again with tape.

There is one more good method fastenings of panels - wooden clamping strips. Nails are driven into them every 15-20 cm. In this case, excellent protection against steam penetration is achieved.

Creating a gap for ventilation

The gap is provided in the process of sheathing the frame for finishing. It should exceed 2 cm. After the bars are selected, they are nailed over the vapor barrier. Next, a wooden lining is already attached. Again, remember that the foil must remain completely intact.

As a result, some of the steam that rises will fall on vapor barrier film condensate. The formed droplets will immediately be dried by natural air currents passing in the space between the insulation and the lining. With the right work done, rotting is out of the question.

What material is better to choose

The best steam and waterproofing of the bath will be a foil-based material. It perfectly retains steam and, at the same time, reduces losses by reflecting heat waves into the room. There are people who are sure that the foil does not affect anything, and this is an extra waste of money, however, as practice shows, almost everyone uses foil-coated materials when building baths.

Naturally, no one will use a simple thin foil, since it is very easily damaged. Preferably construction foil having a paper base.

There are several names of such material present on the market:

RufIzol S. It has a moisture-repellent kraft paper backing. Can be used at temperatures from -60 to 120 ° C.
Alucraft. This type of material has an additional intermediate layer between the foil and kraft paper in the form of a polyethylene film.
Izospan FB. It is kraft paper with a layer of metallized lavsan. It is not considered a metal, which raises questions about its appropriateness in a steam room. However, according to the manufacturer, the material is able to withstand temperatures up to 140 ° C.
Megaflex KF. An analogue of the previous version.
Yutafol h270 AL. It has a membrane consisting of 4 layers, and such a vapor barrier is suitable for saunas and baths.

There is also a vapor barrier for a steam room in a bath with a fiberglass base. It has increased strength, and is able to withstand up to 450 ° C (up to 600 ° C for a short time), which is even an excessive value. Such indicators allow it to be used for insulating chimneys.

Naturally, the cost of such material will be much higher. It has enhanced thermal insulation properties, so it will be possible to save on additional thermal insulation (reduce the layer).

According to manufacturers, fiberglass insulation is environmentally friendly, making it ideal for finishing baths. Although you will have to pay three times more for it than for kraft paper-based material.

Almost all the material on the market is unbranded.

Well-known brands include:

Thermofol ALST - up to 400 ° C;
Folgoizol;
Armofol - up to 150 ° C, there are variations on a self-adhesive basis.

You can also use foil insulation. The method of laying it is the same as for simple insulation, thus saving on installation time.

There are such brands of foil material:

It is also worth noting that, when choosing a material, it is important to take into account the indicators of its combustibility. It is better if it is non-combustible or slightly combustible material, because baths are fire hazardous structures, and in this case it is advisable to play it safe.

Installation of vapor barrier on the ceiling

When installing a vapor barrier for a bath on the ceiling, keep an eye on the joints near it - the material should be laid with an overlay on the wall to minimize heat loss. You can fix the material with the same double-sided tape, or by pressing it with strips. Thus, maximum reliability will be ensured.

Often, in addition to the main insulation in the attic, they also put a layer of moisture-repellent material. There it is especially needed, since after precipitation, droplets of moisture can seep through the roof. In any case, it doesn't hurt to be safe. Only in this case, vapor-permeable waterproofing is required - it will allow the steam that has penetrated through the insulation to enter the attic and evaporate there.

It is possible to make a vapor barrier of the ceiling in the bath using publicly available materials. This method implies the filing of ceiling beams with thick, more than 50-60 mm, boards, sometimes unedged. In the attic, a vapor barrier is laid on the boards.

If the budget is running out at all, then cardboard soaked in drying oil, waxed paper, glassine, or other material of similar properties can be used as it. The edges and joints are carefully processed, after which a mixture of pasty clay is laid on top. Sometimes straw or sawdust is added to give finished material increased viscosity, and the formation of a minimum number of cracks in the future.

After the clay layer has completely dried out, freshly formed cracks are smeared over, and again they wait until the material dries. Further, they already proceed to the laying of the heat-insulating layer, and the ceiling in the steam room itself is sewn up with wooden clapboard.

Wall upholstery with vapor barrier material

Vapor barrier in the steam room on the walls is carried out in almost the same way as the arrangement of the ceiling. The difference is only the thickness of this very layer of insulation (for walls it is half as much). In this case, a foil or membrane film is also suitable, which is somewhat let into the ceiling.

It will also be necessary to glue the joints of the vapor barrier with door and window openings, as well as other structures. The better the vapor barrier is, the longer the bath will last without fail, and it will not be necessary to replace certain insulation elements ahead of time.

Installation of a vapor barrier layer in the washing

In order for the bath to work without problems for as long as possible, it will be necessary to provide a vapor barrier in the washing department. It also has excessive humidity, and temperatures are much lower, which is far from normal conditions.

Therefore, it is important to provide not only high-quality vapor barrier for the steam room, but also for washing. Although in this case, you can do without a foil-based material. Diffusion membranes are excellent. They will not allow steam to penetrate into the insulation, and if the membrane from the inside is equipped with a hygroscopic layer, then the moisture in the insulation will be retained.

This suggests that if droplets form on the rough surface of the membrane, they are retained until they evaporate under the influence of air currents. For such a scheme to work, you need to leave a gap for ventilation between the fine finish and the vapor barrier layer.

Make sure that the vapor barrier layer is fixed to the surfaces with the correct side - foil facing out. Otherwise, the material will collapse very quickly, and it will have to be completely replaced, otherwise it will not be possible to use the bath.

The feasibility of installing a vapor barrier layer in other rooms

It is up to you to decide whether or not to install a vapor barrier in other rooms. In the same locker room, after bath procedures, the level of humidity will definitely rise. If your bath is made of wood, and you do not plan to insulate it either from the outside or from the inside, then you can not lay such a layer of vapor barrier - drying will be carried out naturally, since the tree breathes, and vapors will come out through it. But in this case, it does not hurt to install a normal ventilation system, otherwise problems may also arise over time.

But if your bath is built of foam blocks or bricks, then the vapor barrier must be laid inside the entire bath without fail. In addition, when designing a ventilation system, it should be borne in mind that it will be necessary to dry not only the layers of insulation and steam and gyro insulation, but also the walls, due to the fact that they are made of hygroscopic material.

Therefore, the vapor barrier layer is complemented by a layer of water-repellent material. There are two methods for insulating a brick bath, and both of them involve laying foil material, which will act as a vapor barrier, and at the same time will retain heat.

Laying vapor barrier on the roof of the bath

To ensure normal vapor barrier in the bath, you need to install it not only on the walls and ceiling, but also on the roof. For this on wooden frame a vapor barrier membrane is laid out in the attic, and insulation and waterproofing are placed on top. And already on it, the installation of the counter-lattice is carried out, followed by the fastening of the roofing material.

In the article above, we examined in detail how to make a vapor barrier in the bath. It is necessary to clearly understand how vapor barrier differs from waterproofing, to understand their characteristics, so that after the completion of all work there are no unforeseen nuances. If everything is done correctly, the finished bath will last a very long time.

Bath vapor barrier: foil insulation on the ceiling, which one to choose for a steam room, how to do it with foil for a sauna

How to make a vapor barrier on the ceiling of the bath

When building a bath Special attention should be given to thermal insulation, as well as the creation of a high-quality vapor barrier. The vapor barrier of the bath ceiling prolongs its service life and eliminates negative factors at the construction stage. These include: climate features, aggressive environment, seismological hazard.

It is also important to choose the right materials to achieve the desired result.

Features of the vapor barrier of the bath ceiling

Thanks to the installation of vapor barrier on the ceiling, you can:

increase service life roofing materials;
prevent the appearance of mold and fungus;
limit heat loss;
increase the fire safety of the ceiling structure.

The laid materials are usually durable and do not need additional maintenance throughout their entire service life.

Choice of effective material

The vapor barrier of the ceiling in the bath can be made using natural materials. For example, a mixture of clay and sawdust dries quickly and does not crumble. This was done before in the classic Russian bath.

There are also modern vapor barrier materials for the ceiling, which are used more and more often. There are four types:

It creates the effect of a greenhouse in the room, thanks to which the cost of heating the bath is less. But due to the double-sided smooth surface, the condensate is not retained on the surface and flows down, falling on the heat-insulating layer. This leads to its deterioration and the need for frequent replacement. To prevent this from happening, during installation, it is necessary to leave a small gap through which condensate drops will evaporate.

Polypropylene film

It differs in that it has different surfaces. One side is smooth, like a regular film, and the other with villi. This is a big advantage. Thanks to this surface, the condensate lingers on the villi and does not fall on the thermal insulation.

Films of both types do not allow the surface to "breathe".

Polyethylene foil film

It has a metallic coating on one side. It is reinforced with mesh. Using them, you can achieve two goals at once - to create a vapor barrier and a heat-reflecting layer.

Membrane vapor barrier

Provides a natural microclimate and is ideal for a bath. It does not allow moist air to get to the insulation and spoil it. Simultaneously performs several functions, forms a vapor and hydrobarrier.

Types of vapor barrier for a membrane-type ceiling are divided into:

It is also useful to know that ordinary thick cardboard impregnated with drying oil can be used as a vapor barrier.

The vapor barrier of the bath ceiling will be much more effective if the selected materials meet all modern requirements and basic characteristics. Penoterm, Armofol, Izospan, Penofol are in great demand.

Penotherm is a foamed polypropylene laminated with foil. It is able to keep indoors, reflected heat rays. At the same time it has steam, heat and sound insulation properties.

Armofol is a foil material, on both sides it is made on the basis of a glass mesh. Typically used in areas where high humidity. For example, in a bath, sauna or bathroom.

Penofol is a multilayer composite, which has polyethylene foam inside, and on the outside it is covered with aluminum foil on one or two sides. There are many versions of this product. This, in turn, allows you to make a more accurate choice for a particular case. Serves for heat, hydro and vapor barrier of the ceiling and walls.

The vapor barrier of the ceiling of baths and other wooden buildings is also carried out using a foil material based on kraft paper, which is called Izospan (B). It is of high quality and meets all standards. One of its sides is rough. Due to this, condensate is retained and evaporated. Thus, the insulation and the entire ceiling structure are protected from moisture saturation inside the room.

Mounting methods

The installation procedure itself is not complicated, so it can be done by hand. Vapor barrier of the ceiling can be carried out different ways. We will consider the most popular and practical.

Sew up the ceiling with chopping blocks - thick boards, with a thickness of 5 cm or more.
From above, perform a vapor barrier using the selected material.
Cover with a layer of clay.
Then proceed to the thermal insulation. Can be used mineral insulation, foam glass, expanded clay or other insulation.
From above, strengthen the boards or make a cement-sand screed.

To a square beam (20X20 cm) hem tongue-and-groove boards, 2-3 cm thick.
Cover them with two layers of drying oil for water resistance.
Lay the boards on top of the ceiling beams. Leave gaps between them.
Stick a polyethylene film or reinforced foil on top.
On top of this, make a backfill of sand or slag. Or use any other heater.
Seal and sheathe with wood, preferably hardwood.

Tip: use a stapler to install the ceiling vapor barrier, and glue the seams with special metallized tape.

Often used paint vapor barrier for finishing. To do this, use hot bitumen and bitumen-lingo-sulfonate mastics, rubber and PVC varnishes. They have unique properties:

well pass heat;
retain moisture and prevent it from soaking into ceilings;
create a favorable indoor climate.

How to create a vapor barrier in a wooden house

A standard vapor barrier will protect the ceiling in a wooden house and prevent it from premature aging. Such a vapor barrier can be created using a special membrane, film, roofing felt or special foil.

There are two types of vapor barrier:

Rolled - overlapping each other - 10-15 cm. And for sealing the joints, special self-adhesive docking tapes are used.

For mounting sheet material, you must first buy or independently make a frame from profiles. After that, insert sheets into it and attach with self-tapping screws. The joints must be covered with PVC film or Izospan.

Consider how to properly lay the vapor barrier:

fix the boards of the draft ceiling on the floor beams;
make waterproofing;
attach a layer of vapor barrier to the draft ceiling and press it with a crate of wooden bars or metal profiles;
clean the ceiling, using for this wooden slats, lining, wood boards, drywall or other material.

Also, an additional insulation is laid before finishing the ceiling surface. When laying it, it is impossible to pierce the vapor barrier material with nails. Therefore, a framework laying system is used which prevents damage to the created vapor barrier.

Important: when laying the vapor barrier membrane, fasten the smooth side to the draft ceiling, and the rough side down.

As a rule, steam and heat insulating materials are attached to the walls with the help of a stapler. In this case, special attention is paid to the corners, the vapor barrier should not consist of pieces. It is better to lay a solid canvas that completely covers the corner.

High-quality vapor barrier for the ceiling of a bathhouse or a wooden house is the main condition that will allow you to maintain an optimal temperature regime and feel comfortable inside such buildings.

Bath ceiling vapor barrier: choice of material and installation methods

Features of laying vapor barrier on the ceiling of the bath. Advantages and disadvantages of materials. Mounting methods. Creating a vapor barrier in a wooden house

Vapor barrier for a bath: vapor barrier schemes for the ceiling, walls and roof

For a Russian bath, one of the main tasks is to keep the steam. After all, it is high humidity that we need to create the right atmosphere. Its second task is to protect the heat insulator from getting wet: in a wet state, it protects the premises from heat loss much worse.

What does it look like

Foil vapor barrier - the best choice for the steam room

If this is an ordinary vapor barrier, it is a film of milky, white, blue color. There are they "in a cage" with reinforcing fibers, there are homogeneous ones. To the touch - dense, can have surfaces of different textures - smooth and rough. There are vapor barriers. They are non-linear - they have a corrugated surface or with studded protrusions.

Especially for baths and saunas, a vapor barrier with a heat-reflecting coating is produced: it can be made of foil or metallized lavsan.

What is needed for

High humidity and temperature in the steam room of the Russian bath requires a special approach. It is important to protect the heat-insulating layer from moisture. Why protect him? The fact is that for thermal insulation of premises they are most often used basalt wool. In a dry state, it has good thermal insulation qualities, is made from natural materials, and tolerates high temperatures well. But in an important state, its thermal conductivity increases greatly, it protects worse from heat loss. And if it freezes when wet, it will generally crumble. That is why it is necessary to protect it from moisture in any condition. And from liquid (waterproofing) and from steam:

From moisture coming from the side of the room. Humidity in the Russian steam room is very high, the air is oversaturated with moisture, so the steam tends to other rooms and to the street (through a heat insulator). And this is what we need to avoid.
From the moisture formed due to the temperature difference in the steam room and in the attic and on the street (and on the interfloor ceiling and on the walls). It condenses even before they start to give steam, while heating the air in the steam room.

Laying rules

In order for such material to fulfill its tasks, it is necessary:

ensure the best possible tightness of seams and joints;
make sure that there is a ventilation gap between the foil and the finish.

How to ensure tightness

You can either buy metallized tape and glue the joints on the outside, or double-sided, and fasten the panels together

It will probably not be possible to create complete tightness of the seams and all material for protection against steam, but it is possible to significantly reduce the amount of steam entering the insulation. For this, the panels are laid with one approaching the other for several centimeters (5-10 cm).

The joints are glued either with double-sided tape, which allows you to fasten two panels tightly, or with special foil tape, which is sold in the same place as the foil material.

It is equally important to maintain its integrity when installing a foil vapor barrier. In those places where the film is attached to the bars, holes are formed. Minimum damage during installation is ensured when using staples from a construction stapler. For those who love perfection in everything, you can additionally glue the places of their attachment on top with adhesive tape.

Second good way- fixation of panels with clamping wooden planks, into which nails are hammered with an interval of 150-200 mm. Here, protection against the penetration of steam is immediately improved.

How to make a gap for ventilation vapor barrier

This gap is provided by the bars of the counter-lattice, to which the lining is subsequently attached. The gap is at least 2 cm. Having picked up the appropriate bars, nail them over the vapor barrier. And already fasten the lining to them. When fixing it, do not forget about the need to maintain the integrity of the foil.

What happens as a result: part of the rising steam condenses on the vapor barrier film. Hanging droplets are dried by a stream of air that passes between the film and the lining. If everything is done correctly, there are no problems with rotting.

The gap between the vapor barrier and the finish is provided by the bars of the counter-lattice

For a steam room, foil materials are the best vapor barrier materials. They both keep steam out and reduce heat loss by reflecting heat waves back into the room. Some believe that this is a trick of the sellers, but in fact the foil does not affect anything, except for the cost of finishing. But in practice, they prefer to put foil or foil materials.

Simple thin foil is difficult to use: it breaks easily. Paper-based construction foil is much more convenient. Here are some materials:

RufIzol S. Foil fixed on waterproof kraft paper. Operating temperature range from -60°C to +120°C.

This is what materials on kraft paper look like

There is also fiberglass foil. It is more durable, also less combustible, but more expensive. According to the manufacturers, this material can withstand up to + 450 ° C (peak load up to + 600 °. This is more than enough for use even near chimneys. This material, along with steam protection, has thermal insulation properties. This does not mean that without thermal insulation can be dispensed with, but using a smaller layer is easy.

According to the manufacturers, it is possible to use it in baths: it does not emit harmful substances. For the price: the approximate cost is 3 times higher than on kraft paper.

By stamps: almost all materials are nameless. There are only a few named:

Thermofol ALST - temperature regime up to +400°C;
Folgoizol - thermo-heat-resistant vapor barrier;
ARMOFOL - withstands up to +150°C, available different types, even with a self-adhesive backing.

If you want to see the description and characteristics of the "nameless", type in the search "foil on fiberglass". And then choose

These are fiberglass materials. In addition to vapor barrier, they also have quite significant thermal insulation properties.

There is also a combination heat insulator covered with foil. It is laid like a conventional heat insulator - spaced between the bars of the crate, and the joints are glued with foil tape. When using such material, installation time is saved. If this is important to you, you can use such material. Despite the fact that the material appeared relatively recently, there are more proposals here:

Isover Sauna;
Ursa (Ursa) foil;
SAUNA BUTTS by ROCKWOOL.

These are heat insulators covered with foil.

There is one important nuance: when choosing a material, pay attention to its combustibility. It is advisable to choose either non-combustible or low-combustible materials. After all, a bathhouse is a fire hazardous building and it is better to play it safe here.

Bath ceiling vapor barrier

The figure shows the general scheme of heat and vapor barrier of the steam room ceiling. Please note that at the junction of the wall and ceiling, the vapor barrier material is laid with a “sunset” on the wall. This minimizes steam penetration. For reliability, the edges of the material must be fixed, if possible ensuring tightness: if possible, you can use the same double-sided tape, or press the material tightly against the wall with a bar.

Vapor barrier scheme for the ceiling of the steam room in the bath or sauna

Often, another layer is laid from the side of the attic (or second floor). waterproofing material. It is, in fact, necessary there: it will protect the heat insulator from drops of condensate that can drip from the roof, from precipitation that can leak, from spilled onto the floor of the second floor. Never mind. This is the option when it is better to play it safe. Only this time vapor-permeable waterproofing is needed. This is so that the steam that still gets into the insulation can go into the under-roof room and evaporate there.

There is also an option to vapor barrier the ceiling of the steam room using the "grandfather" method and publicly available materials. In this case, the ceiling beams are hemmed with a thick board (at least 50-60 mm), often unedged, from the side of the attic or roof, a vapor barrier is laid on the boards. In the most budgetary version, it can be cardboard soaked in drying oil, wax paper, glassine or any modern material with the corresponding properties. Its edges and joints also require careful sealing. Clay soaked to a pasty state is laid on top of this layer, to which straw or sawdust is sometimes added - for greater viscosity and also so that cracks do not form or are small.

Steam room ceiling vapor barrier using clay

After the clay layer has dried, the cracks that have appeared are covered up again and the material is allowed to dry again. Then a layer of thermal insulation is already laid (read what materials to use for thermal insulation of the bath here), and lining or boards are stuffed from the side of the steam room.

Wall vapor barrier

The vapor barrier scheme for the walls of the steam room is practically no different from the “pie” on the ceiling. The whole difference is in the thickness of the thermal insulation layer (for the ceiling it is twice as large). It is also recommended to lay a foil film or membrane on the walls in the steam room (do not forget to ensure that it "enters" the ceiling and floor).

Vapor barrier must be glued at the joints with adhesive tape

It is also necessary to glue the places where the vapor barrier material meets window or doorways, other structural elements - the less vapor will penetrate under the film, the better the protection will be and the longer the service life of the bath without repair and replacement of insulation elements.

Bath vapor barrier: the sequence of laying materials for the ceiling and walls

Vapor barrier in the washroom

In order for the bath to stand for many years without problems and the need for repairs, it is also necessary to make a vapor barrier in the washing room. The humidity here is not so high, the temperatures are also non-critical, but all the same, the conditions are far from normal: at times there is quite a lot of moisture both in the form of steam and in the form of water.

In the washing section of the bath, vapor barrier is also necessary, but there is no need to use foil materials. In this case, it is more expedient to use diffusion membranes, which, on the one hand, prevent the penetration of steam into the insulation, and on the other hand, retain the moisture present in the insulation cake (if the membrane has a hygroscopic coating on the inside).

In this case, on the membrane, on its rough side, a drop of water is retained until it is dried by air currents. For this to work, there must be a ventilation gap between the vapor barrier and the finish.

Scheme of heat and vapor insulation of the bath wall from profiled timber

How to mount it on a wooden floor (and on a panel ceiling) and on the walls is shown in the video. Pay attention to which side the vapor barrier is laid on the walls. It is easy to confuse the side, and as a result, nothing will work, and after a while, repairs will be needed with the replacement of the skin.

Do you need it in other rooms

Whether or not to make a vapor barrier in the rest of the bath is your choice. But even in the locker room when using the bath, the level of humidity is always much higher than normal. If your bath is built of wood and will not be insulated either from the inside or outside, then you can do without this layer - drying will occur due to the fact that the wood “breathes”, has the ability to remove vapors. But even in this case, it is already desirable to have a well-thought-out ventilation system in the bath.

If the bath is made of brick or foam block, then vapor barrier is required in all rooms. Moreover, when compiling ventilation and insulation / steam / waterproofing pie, it must be borne in mind that not only the insulation will have to be dried, but also the walls themselves due to the hygroscopicity of the material.

Vapor barrier schemes for a brick bath

Therefore, in addition to the vapor barrier layer from the inside, a wall waterproofing layer is required. The diagram shows two ways to insulate the walls of a brick bath, which necessarily include foil material, which plays the role of a vapor barrier and at the same time reduces heat loss.

Bath roof vapor barrier

To make a vapor barrier of the walls and ceiling of the bath is not enough. To ensure the safety of walls and roofing materials, vapor barrier of the roof is also necessary. To do this, from the side of the attic, on the crate, a vapor barrier membrane is laid, a layer of insulation is placed on it, on top - waterproofing, along which the counter-lattice is made, and the roofing material is already attached to it.

When choosing materials, you need to accurately understand the difference between vapor barrier and waterproofing. In this video, the processes, their features and differences, as well as the requirements and characteristics of the materials used are intelligibly and in detail considered.

Vapor barrier in the bath: ceiling and walls, materials for vapor barrier, video

When building a Russian bath, it is important to pay special attention to the vapor barrier, since the time the steam room is ready for wellness procedures depends on this.

Vapor barrier of the ceiling in the bath - a barrier to condensate

Vapor barrier for a bath is necessary for the construction of a barrier against steam escaping through the walls and ceiling to the outside. This is necessary for the steam section of the bath, because the traditional Russian bath includes the procedure for warming up the body with steam, and even with a broom.

But for some people, a hot bath is contraindicated. Therefore, in the steam room there are places for lovers take a steam bath- specially equipped shelves almost under the ceiling, where it is the hottest, and there are places for moderate stay- lower shelves

Many baths were built as a single room: a steam room, it is also a washing room, and a dressing room. A feature of the Russian stove is a closed-type stove-heater - the main attraction of the Russian bath. The stove warms up for a long time, and its design is such that the heat is kept in the bath for two days. This is where the reason lies: why the ceilings in the Russian bath have always been dry.

To preserve heat, the roof and walls of the Russian bath are made of carefully caulked walls: used moss, linen tow. The ceiling is wooden from thick planks (semi-log) tightly fitted to each other. Vapor barrier for a bath on the ceiling was carried out as follows: oiled paper was placed on top of the chopping blocks and a layer of clay mixed with dry sawdust was laid. It was a kind of additional thermal insulation. The attic of the bathhouse was ventilated, brooms were stored there, herbs were dried.

The material for the construction of the bath was also taken into account - they were used moisture resistant wood species: cedar, larch, oak. Aspen, alder, lime tongue-and-groove boards were used for finishing.

Building materials that are currently used in the construction of baths must be additionally protected from moisture penetration. This applies, first of all, to the protection of insulation in the construction of ceiling and wall ceilings. And the heating technology in modern baths is completely different. It also affects the formation of condensate in the heater of the bath.

You can choose the right vapor barrier and determine which one is better, but you need to study the nature of the conversion of warm air into condensate.

What happens to the heated air in the baths?

The vapor barrier of the bath ceiling made of natural materials could not protect the wood from steam by 100%, but after washing it remained warm in the bath, and the moisture accumulated in the log evaporated during this time. The bath heated up and cooled down slowly.

There was no sharp temperature drop inside the bath and on the surface of the ceiling, as there were no prerequisites for creating dew points- the temperature at which moisture-saturated warm air cools down and cannot hold moisture that condenses on cold surfaces. Even if moisture appears on the surface of the ceiling, it will not penetrate deep into the wood, but will form drops on the ceiling, which will stop dripping onto the floor as soon as the bath warms up.

In modern baths, finishing materials are made of moisture resistant wood, but the design of the stove, in most modern baths, is designed for quick heating of the steam room. Now imagine what happens during warm-up if there is no vapor barrier on the ceiling and walls.

The oven gives off heat almost instantly. The walls and ceiling that have not yet been warmed up take on heated hot air; part of the wet steam finds a dew point on the surface of cold walls and ceilings, and condenses on them in the form of droplets.

The dew point does not stand still, it shifts as the walls and ceiling heat up.

What happens if there is no ceiling vapor barrier in the bath? Warm air penetrates behind the skin and meets the insulation, which has a lower temperature than the penetrating warm air. A temperature difference condition may be created at which moisture will condense directly in the insulation (internal condensation), and since the insulation has low thermal conductivity, the dew point in it can be held for a long time and the insulation will get wet like a sponge, absorbing moisture.

This is the difference between an old Russian bath and a modern one. For the old Russian bath, there are practically no conditions for the condensation of warm air, or they are minimized (surface condensation). A modern bath must have steam protection. Moreover, this protection is based on specific conditions, which take into account:

Furnace type: with heater open type and a constant firebox, and a closed type with a periodic firebox and high heat capacity;
Features of the design of the room;
Construction material.

Under these conditions, choose a protection method:

Maximum isolated room with impenetrable vapor barrier, protection against internal condensation;
Partial vapor barrier, excluding the formation of a dew point in the construction of the bath.

Foil vapor barrier for a bath

Modern steam rooms in the bath are heated by metal stoves with a constant firebox: the stones are heated during the firebox and if combustion is not maintained, then the stones will give off heat through the water poured on them and cool down. But the advantage of these furnaces is fast heating, the stones are heated to 300- 400 degrees in a short period of time, what happens next without a vapor barrier is described above.

To keep the heat inside and prevent it from escaping, apply foil vapor barrier for a bath from the inside. The principle is to create a screen like a thermos: which retains all types of heat transfer energy: heat transfer, convection and radiant, or, as it is called: electromagnetic infrared radiation energy.

Ceiling insulation in the steam room prevent heat penetration into cracks cutting of ventilation and chimneys and other channels: water pipes binding of the heat exchanger (register) of the furnace with a container installed in the washing room or in the attic of the bath, electrical wiring. This also applies to the vapor barrier of the ceiling in the bath. Foil material requirement:

High tensile strength;
Low thermal conductivity;
High reflectivity of IR rays;
fire resistance;
Environmental friendliness.

These requirements are met by foils from trusted manufacturers, for example Aerolam Insulation, which is one of the top ten international companies producing reflective insulation material for construction purposes.

Material contains double flame retardant and IR reflective layers aluminum foil, between which there is polyethylene foam with air bubbles enclosed in spherical separate cells. This material structure is most suitable for creating a thermos in a steam room.

Technical characteristics of insulating materials Aerolam Insulation.

This is a small part of the rolled insulating material for the vapor barrier of the bath from the inside Aerolam Insulation. The choice is huge. You can choose a universal vapor barrier material for external, internal insulation.

Roll foil material can be chosen cheaper. "Alucraft"- consists of 3 layers: foil, reinforcing fire-resistant film, kraft paper. Regardless of what you choose, the foil is attached to the wall and ceiling with a stapler to a wooden crate with an overlap of 5-10 cm, the joints are glued with adhesive foil tape, included in the kit.

What is the best vapor barrier for a bath?

What is the best vapor barrier? The one that will protect the insulation and block the leakage of steam to the outside. Having considered the characteristics of the foil Aerolam Super Alumet above, we can safely say that it is the best for the ceiling in the bath. It is suitable for baths of the traditional Russian type, and for modern baths, which differ from saunas only by the addition of steam.

Before deciding which vapor barrier to choose, you need to proceed from the preferences of the owner of the bath. If the traditional temperature is maintained in the bath 60-70 degrees, then instead of foil the usual one will do PVC vapor barrier film, but if the bath is 100-110 degrees, then the film, it is better to replace it with foil.

The topic of vapor barrier baths is extensive, but there are postulates, common truths that should not be deviated from, the main thing is prevent condensation conditions. The main protective agent can be not only foil material, but also natural materials, you just need to correctly understand the nature of condensation formation and act consciously.

Additionally, you need to build in an adjustable ventilation duct in order to ventilate the room after washing.

Vapor barrier of the ceiling in the bath: which one is better to choose?

Modern materials in the construction of baths make adjustments to traditional methods of thermal and steam protection. Lightweight ceiling structures are insulated with mineral wool insulation. What is the best way to make a vapor barrier in the bath?

More recently, baths were built from a simple log house with moss insulation. There was no question of any effect of a thermos then. But technologies are developing, and now the era of building energy-efficient baths and saunas has begun. The use of high-quality insulation and vapor barrier films allows you to warm up the steam room in a faster time and keep high temperatures there much longer. The article will discuss how to make a vapor barrier of the walls, ceiling and floor in the bath with your own hands.

Does a bath need a vapor barrier?

Regardless of whether a Russian bath is being built with a steam room in which a wood-burning stove is installed or a sauna with an electric firebox, there will always be high humidity and temperature in such a room. For high-quality heat retention for a long time, a layer of thermal insulation is equipped in such rooms. Another thing is if the bath is classic from a log without any insulation. Then the vapor barrier is done only on the ceiling.
But there are moments here too. The need to make vapor barrier walls in the bath arises only if mineral wool is used. In the dry state, it has high thermal insulation characteristics, which decrease sharply when wet. When using foam or polystyrene, a vapor barrier layer is not made.

Vapor barrier frame bath

On sale there are several types of vapor barrier materials suitable for use in the construction of a bath.

Films. This is the simplest type of vapor barrier, which is a dense canvas of white or blue. Depending on the manufacturer, its surface can be rough or smooth to the touch. More expensive models have reinforcement that looks like a cage.
membranes. They are non-woven materials that effectively protect the insulation layer from moisture and condensate.
Foil. This is the most acceptable vapor barrier material for a steam room, as it retains heat very effectively thanks to a special coating of metallized lavsan or foil.

Traditional types of vapor barrier for a bath

TO traditional materials, which were actively used a few years ago, include plastic film and kraft paper.

First of all, the choice of vapor barrier depends on where exactly it is planned to be located. So, for walls you can buy the cheapest film, which effectively copes with the tasks of retaining heat and protecting the insulation from getting wet. Polyethylene is completely moisture resistant and reduces the time required for the necessary temperature heating of the steam room. This is the most cheap way but it has significant drawbacks. The plastic film loses its properties very quickly and begins to deteriorate from high temperatures, which are often kept in the steam room. It is best to apply it to the walls in the dressing room or rest room, where it is customary to relax after the steam room. But here, too, there is a peculiarity. Before buying a film, you need to check it, fold it and look at the resulting seam. If it is, then such material is unsuitable, since it will begin to deteriorate most quickly. Ideally, after folding, it should remain smooth.

More modern and durable analogues are polypropylene film. It withstands high temperatures much better, and is much less likely to crack or tear. Their properties do not decrease under the influence of heat and ultraviolet radiation, and therefore, polypropylene film is sometimes used as an external windscreen for a bath. At the same time, its price is slightly higher than its polyethylene counterpart. Today it is produced on a cellulose or viscose basis. It is not difficult to see this layer, as the coating becomes rough to the touch and matte in appearance. Such a high porosity allows you to retain a lot of moisture when using a steam room, and later it simply evaporates from the surface without penetrating to the insulation layer. But in this case, it is imperative to arrange a ventilation gap, making a frame of wooden slats 2-3 cm thick under the cladding.
kraft paper at its core, it is a special construction cardboard, characterized by a high density, due to which the effect of holding steam is obtained, preventing it from penetrating to the insulation. It is not worth using it for a steam room, but for a rest room it is quite an acceptable option. But only if it does not have a shower room or a pool. Otherwise, it will get wet and simply spread, as a result of which it will need to be completely replaced with the dismantling of the cladding.

Sometimes used as a vapor barrier ruberoid or glassine. This is rather due to the lack of choice of another, more suitable material for these purposes. Theoretically, they are able to cope with the task of vapor barrier walls, as they have excellent moisture-resistant qualities and are durable. But when heated, they emit a pungent odor and toxic substances that are harmful to health.

Modern types of vapor barrier for a bath

Today, a number of modern, highly efficient materials recommended by professionals are presented on the construction market.

Membrane vapor barrier

This is one of the newest and most popular materials for vapor barrier walls and ceilings in the bath. Its uniqueness lies in the presence of two sides, one of which reliably protects the insulation from steam, and the other remains "breathing". On sale are bilateral or one-sided diffusion membranes, or as they are also called "breathing". Therefore, when buying and installing, you must immediately clearly determine which side to mount them correctly.
It is also divided into several types according to the number of layers available: multi-layer and single-layer. The former are able to accumulate moisture inside themselves, and when the steam room cools down, gradually give it away.
Most modern look membrane vapor barrier is called "intelligent". This is due to its versatility, which includes the ability to not only regulate humidity, but also retain heat, as well as act as a full-fledged waterproofing layer. Their price is very high compared to a simple membrane, but considering how many materials a single fabric replaces, while saving space and labor hours, its use becomes justified.

Tip: the manufacturer always indicates exactly how to lay the membrane material. But if the packaging is lost, then first you need to determine the smooth and rough side. It is the high porosity, which has absorbent qualities, that ensures absorption and retention excess moisture with further evaporation. Therefore, this side must be done outward, facing the steam room. But the side with a smooth surface is attached close to the insulation. This is with regards to one-sided membranes, if the material is two-sided, then it can be mounted in any way, since it functions equally in both directions.

Foil vapor barrier for a bath

This is a range of materials designed specifically for vapor barrier in steam rooms. All of them withstand frequent temperature changes and heating up to 120°C without losing their properties. Them distinctive feature is the foil side, which effectively protects the insulation from the penetration of hot steam into it, at the same time, reflecting infrared radiation, allowing the steam room to warm up faster and not cool down longer. From here and its second name is “reflective”.

Foil vapor barrier on kraft paper. It has advantages only over plain foil, as it is more durable and easier to use. But the high hygroscopicity of the base, and, as a result, the low resistance to soaking, makes it not very popular. Such features threaten not only rapid operational unsuitability, but also the risk of mold formation in it. The main manufacturers are the Russian companies RufIzol and Alumkraft.

Dacron coating on kraft paper. Manufacturers claim that this material is suitable for use in rooms with heating up to 140 ° C. Despite the fact that this is more than enough for use in steam rooms, builders do not often use it. This is due to the unnatural nature of the material and its chemical origin. After all, for such premises it is customary to choose the most environmentally friendly and safe. You can buy such a product from Izospan under the FB and Megaflex KF labels.
Foil vapor barrier based on fiberglass. This is one of the most expensive materials. Thanks to a very durable and non-rotting base, it will last for several decades even with the most active use of the steam room. In addition, it has good thermal insulation properties. It is produced by companies such as Aromofol, Termofol and Folgoizol.
Thermal insulation with foil. This material immediately contains a layer of insulation and a foil vapor barrier side. Mineral wool or isolon is most often used as thermal insulation. It also saves time on construction work. These products are manufactured by Rockwool, Ursa and Izover.

Coating vapor barrier for a bath

At its core, this is liquid rubber. It can also be used as a vapor barrier in a steam room. It contains various polymers, which, when completely dried, create a waterproof film that has high strength and completely protects the insulation from steam. In addition, it has sound and heat insulating qualities. It is applied in liquid form with a brush.
Such liquid compositions are recommended for vapor barrier of the floor in the bath. The composition is suitable for both concrete surface treatment and for application to wooden logs. If liquid rubber is chosen for protection against steam, then the consumption will be no more than 1.5 kg / m2, but for high-quality waterproofing it will be necessary to spend about 3.5 kg / m2 (in the end, the layer thickness should be about 7-8 mm).
This is a great choice for brick baths or for use in the shower area of the break room. For a steam room, the coating vapor barrier must be chosen especially carefully, taking into account the absence of toxic substances in the composition and the ability to withstand high temperatures.

Vapor barrier Izospan for a bath

Undoubtedly, one of the leading manufacturers is Isospan. Their products have long established themselves in the best qualities, while the price remains affordable. This Russian company has been operating for more than 15 years, during which it has established the production of a number of vapor barrier materials.

IzospanFacebook. This is one of the most popular materials for vapor barrier walls of the bath. As a base, durable kraft paper is used with a foil layer of lavsan applied to it. Its characteristics allow the use in rooms where the temperature rises above 100 °C. Thanks to the metallized layer, it simultaneously protects against moisture and reflects heat radiation back into the steam room, preventing it from escaping through the walls. It is also recommended for roof vapor barrier in the bath. This also effectively prevents heat from seeping through the roof and the steam room cooling too quickly. This product has all the necessary certificates confirming its environmental friendliness and safety for humans.
IzospanFX. Foamed polyethylene with a thickness of 2 to 5 mm is taken as the basis. It has a metallic finish on top. This material is considered universal and is suitable for steam, heat and waterproofing.

IzospanFS. This is a membrane polypropylene fabric with a metallized layer on one side. It will also perfectly protect the insulation and structural elements of the bath from steam and moisture. In addition, reflecting heat will make heating the steam room more efficient and faster.

Proper vapor barrier of the bath ceiling

Having decided on the material that will be used to vapor barrier the ceiling in the bath, you can get to work.

If you look at the ceiling cake from the bottom up, then its design will look like this:

finishing material, the most popular for this purpose is the lining of hardwood trees, which does not emit resin;
crate of wooden slats for fixing the lining. In addition, it acts as a gap for ventilation;

vapor barrier layer. It is fastened over the entire surface of the ceiling in monolithic layers, reaching the walls by 15-20 cm. Between themselves, the strips of material will have joints, they must be made with an overlap of 10 cm and glued with metallized tape. It is important here to make everything airtight, otherwise, even through a small gap, steam will seep out;
next comes directly the ceiling of the bath, which is most often made of wooden lag and covered with boards. A vapor barrier film is attached to it from below, and a heater from above;
basalt wool in the form of slabs or rolls is most often chosen as a heater for the bath ceiling. The standard thickness is 5 cm, but the density may be different. In any case, for high-quality thermal insulation, a layer of at least 10 cm should be made and mats should be staggered so that the next layer overlaps the knocks of the first. For seamless insulation, you can use Ecowool or expanded clay. A more economical heat-insulating material, which is still used today, is sawdust. But their use is also impractical without a vapor barrier;
on top of the insulation, it is desirable to make a windproof membrane, which on the underside can release steam that has accidentally got there from the heater, and from above it will protect against possible moisture;
The finish layer of the attic space will depend on the function of the room. If this is a residential attic, then a finishing layer is laid flooring if an unused attic, then the insulation is simply covered with something to protect the thermal insulation from mechanical damage.

When the second floor of the bath is in operation, then in addition to the proper arrangement of the interfloor overlap, you must also take care of the vapor barrier of the roof of the bath.

Tip: if a high-quality vapor barrier is arranged in the bath, then after using the steam room, it is necessary to open the door to check it thoroughly.

Hydro and vapor barrier of bath walls

Most often, during construction, work on heat and vapor barrier is carried out simultaneously. That is, having laid the heat-insulating material, a vapor barrier film is immediately stretched over it. This is the most efficient and rational and does not take much time.

Another thing is when repair work is carried out in an already operated bath. In this case, it is necessary to dismantle all wood paneling so that it can be reused in the future. Unscrew the crate and attach a vapor barrier to the cleaned walls.

Stages of work

The walls should already be insulated. This means that wooden slats of the frame are attached between the mineral wool mats with a step of 60 cm.
Work is carried out from the corner, attaching the edge of the vapor barrier film with an overlap of 10 cm to the adjacent wall. First, it is fixed with a construction stapler in several places. This must be done quite firmly so that in the future it will be possible to pull it with tension.
The foil heat-reflecting side is located inside the steam room, and the foamed base is close to the heat-insulating material.

First, the bottom row is pulled along the length of the entire wall, firmly fastened with a stapler to each vertical frame guide. As a rule, the width of the roll is 1.5, therefore, there will be a longitudinal joint in the middle of the wall. Its overlap should not be less than 10 cm; for greater tightness, it is glued with metallized tape.
When the vapor barrier material is applied to all the walls of the bath, slats are attached on top for the facing finishing material. They are mounted directly on the guides of the frame, made under the insulation. This will allow you to immediately fix the film more firmly and prepare the base for lining.

Vapor barrier of the floor in the bath

It all depends on how the bath was built. Most often, it is customary to equip a simple wooden floor with a hole for water to drain. But in this case, the heat quickly leaves the steam room, as a result of which it cools down quickly, and only the first visitors have time to really take a steam bath. To avoid this, modern baths equip floors with several layers.

The first layer is an ordinary wooden floor, with a provided ladder for water drainage. The boards are treated with liquid coating waterproofing.
A heat-insulating material, for example, basalt wool, is laid on top.
A vapor barrier is laid on it on a non-rotting basis.

Next, a concrete screed of sufficient thickness is mounted for the subsequent laying of tiles. At all stages, one must not forget about the arrangement of a ladder for draining water after dousing. In this connection, the floor should have a slight slope so that the water does not linger.
When the screed is finished and the tiles are laid, the floor is ready. On top, it remains only to lay wooden gratings, and the warm and durable floor in the bath is ready.

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