Do-it-yourself warming of the bath from the inside step by step. We solve the problem: how to properly insulate the bath from the inside

The bath insulation technology involves three successive stages: then the walls and, last but not least, the floor. The technology, in general, is the same for any type of building, but there are some features. In this article, we will try to figure out how to properly insulate the walls in the bath.

Before starting work, be sure to eliminate all the flaws: seal and insulate the cracks, treat the walls with flame retardants and antiseptics, if you see fit, check the tightness of the joints, etc. After finishing preparatory work you can proceed with the installation of thermal insulation.

The pie itself looks like this:

a wall on which bars are stuffed;
heat insulator laid between the bars;
vapor barrier;
a crate of slats that holds materials and serves to mount the finish.

Main conclusions:

It is not necessary to leave a gap between the insulation and aluminum foil in the bath;
It is desirable to leave a gap between the aluminum foil (or other foil material) and the lining so that the condensate can flow down freely. Otherwise, the lining will rot very quickly.

Between the bars we tightly lay the heat insulator. The thickness of the insulation corresponds to the thickness of the bars

You also need to decide on the direction in which the bars will be nailed to the wall. They can be nailed vertically and horizontally. And there is constant debate about how best to do it. Some builders claim that with a horizontal location of the heat insulator, and hence the bars, there is less heat loss. Their opponents say that ventilation is better with a vertical arrangement. More importantly, everyone chooses for himself, as well as whether or not the bars need to be treated with antiseptics and fire retardants.

Advice! It makes sense to think not about how to fix the bars, but first of all about how the lining will be attached: horizontally or vertically. It is more practical to mount the lining horizontally. In this case, the condensate, which will inevitably form on the vapor barrier, will be able to flow down unhindered, so the crate under the lining will be mounted vertically.

The step of stuffing the bars, under the insulation, is determined by the width of the selected heat insulator: the distance between the bars should be approximately 1 cm less than the actual width of the insulation(in this case, the insulation will fit snugly against the bars).

Advice! Be sure to measure the width of the insulation before attaching the bars. Do not trust the data on the packaging: firstly, there may be factory deviations, and secondly, during storage and transportation, the edges may wrinkle, thereby reducing the actual width. Any gap and loosely fitting heat insulator is a place where cold will penetrate and condensation will form. These areas are also called cold bridges.

Step 2 Between the stuffed bars, tightly, without gaps, with little effort, a heater is laid. With the right distance between the bars, the heat insulator holds well on its own, but to be sure, you can fix it with hot-dip galvanized or stainless steel screws and washers of large diameter (about the choice of fastening materials for the bath).

If a foil heat insulator is chosen, to ensure tightness, close each connection with a patch of aluminum tape, and on top you need to fix another piece of adhesive-backed foil - tightness is very important: most heat insulators lose their properties in the presence of moisture. For example, the thermal conductivity of wet basalt wool is much greater than dry. For this reason, the insulation must not be allowed to get wet.

Also, carefully in this case, you need to approach the sealing of the joints of the foil insulation and the bars: they need to be glued with the same foil tape, ensuring that they enter at least 5 cm both on the insulation and on the bar.

For a steam room, foil is considered the best material to prevent moisture from penetrating into the insulation. It not only retains moisture well, but also reflects heat back into the room, greatly reducing its loss. If you choose such material, the time required to heat the room will significantly decrease, the costs of maintaining the required temperature will decrease, the stove will work in a more gentle mode, which means it will last longer.

In other rooms, you can lay any other material that is suitable for performance.

The strips of the selected material are laid so that they overlap by at least 5 cm. All joints are additionally carefully glued with foil tape, which is sold in the same place as the vapor barrier. Attach it to the bars with staples and a construction stapler. To maintain tightness and prevent steam from entering the thermal insulation, it is advisable to glue the joints with the same foil tape.

The video below shows how insulation is laid in a Finnish sauna and covered with aluminum foil.

When insulating the ceiling, there should be a "sunset" of the heat and vapor barrier on the walls. When installing wall insulation, put it on top of the wall “pie”, and then carefully seal the joints (use foil tape again).

Step 3 After the installation of the "pie" is completed, a crate of planks is stuffed onto the protruding bars. It will hold the materials, and will also serve as the basis for attaching the interior trim.

This is how the wall may look after the completion of all work: 1 - insulation, 2 - vapor barrier, 3 - lining

Features of wall insulation from different materials

The technology and sequence of insulation layers remains virtually unchanged for various rooms and types of buildings. Only some parameters can be changed. For example, for a steam room, the thickness of the insulation is recommended twice as much as for other rooms: it is here that it is very important to retain heat for the maximum amount of time.

The thickness of the insulation also differs for buildings made of different materials. A log bath itself holds heat well, and when finishing all rooms except for a steam room, you can do without a heater at all, or choose a material of small thickness - if the winters in your region are harsh.

The video below explains why there is no need to additionally insulate the walls of a log bath (the plot of the program "Estate").

Wall insulation brick bath from within practically no different, except for the methods of fastening: it is more difficult to hammer nails into a brick wall, you can use dowels. You can use galvanized profiles instead of wooden bars, but when buying them, pay attention to whether they are suitable for use in rooms with high humidity. And with the choice of sizes it is much more difficult here: there are not so many standard sizes, and metal can become a conductor of cold. Insulation of the brick walls of the bath from the inside implies a greater thickness of thermal insulation than in a log bath: minimum - 10 cm, but this parameter depends on many factors: wall thickness, external insulation, region, etc.

Insulation of the walls of the bath from foam blocks the composition of the "pie" is no different. The whole difficulty is that this material does not hold fasteners well, even special ones. It is no better than he tolerates excessive loads. Therefore, when choosing materials, pay attention to their weight. It should be one of the decisive factors.

The fastening of the crate must be done so that the main load falls on the floor, and not on the walls. To do this, you can make U-shaped structures that are attached to the floor and ceiling, just fix their position in the walls with a pair of dowels.

Advice! To further reduce the load on foam concrete walls, you can not fasten the planks tightly to the wall, but make clamps from pieces of galvanized steel that will only hold the slats in a vertical state. The entire load will be on the floor.

The insulation between the slats should be laid tightly, and you can fix it so that it does not fall with the help of a thread and a stapler (shoot the thread to the slats). A vapor barrier or vapor barrier can also be attached to the planks with staples, but do not forget to overlap the panels, glue and seal the joints with foil tape, and cover the staples with patches.

The last stage of warming the walls of the bath from foam blocks is the installation of the crate for interior decoration. This is a similar frame of U-shaped sections, the load from which is distributed mainly on the floor. This frame is attached to the first one in several places to the bars.

This is just one solution that allows you to insulate the walls of the bath from foam blocks, but it is simple in execution and quite reliable.

Bath insulation materials

The choice of material for insulation is enough difficult process: it is necessary to take into account not only specifications heaters but also their environmental friendliness, harmlessness, fire safety. It is especially problematic to correctly select a heater for a steam room, since it has not only high humidity, but also a high temperature, which causes the release of toxic substances from some types of heaters.

Classic mineral wool

Not so long ago, almost everyone advised using mineral wool to insulate the bath, but recent studies have shown that in production, a composition containing phenol-formaldehyde resins. They have a harmful effect on a person, are a carcinogen, which in itself is unacceptable, and in a bath or sauna with its high temperature, it is generally very dangerous. Yes, the certificates indicate that the release of these substances does not exceed the threshold, but do you need it?

Even Rockwool or TechnoNIKOL basalt wool, any other mineral wool from well-known or not manufacturers, emits phenol-formaldehyde substances. In general, according to physicians and experts, any mineral wool is harmful to health. In this regard, the question arises: "what is the best way to insulate the bath?". There are several materials about which there are no negative opinions. Anyway, until...

Mineral heaters of a new generation

URSA PUREONE material is presented as mineral insulation new generation. Acrylic is used as a binder - a chemically neutral substance that does not react with other substances and does not emit harmful substances under any operating conditions.

URSA PUREONE material is one of the harmless heaters

The safety of URSA PUREONE has been confirmed by the EcoStandard group (classified as an M1 material by Eurofins, EUCEB certified).

Heaters made of glass, peat and paper

FOAMGLAS® foam glass is foamed glass. It does not burn, does not lose its properties over time, is stable in shape, environmentally friendly and safe. Its only drawback: the high price and rather large weight.

There are also peat-based heaters - peat blocks . Crushed peat is soaked with water, filler is added - straw, sawdust, etc., blocks are formed from the resulting mushy mass, which are used as heat and sound insulators. The resulting material not only reduces heat loss, but is also a "breathable" material - it absorbs well and also releases moisture well, has a bacteriostatic effect, does not burn or rot.

Despite all the positive qualities, peat blocks are not the most common material, and there are few manufacturers of this material. The most famous is the GeoKar enterprise from Tver. If all the declared qualities are confirmed, then this is a good alternative to mineral wool.

There is also such a thermal insulator as ecowool . This is a cellulose substance, mostly consisting of recycled newspapers, to which safe (according to the manufacturers) fire retardants - boric acid and borax salts - are added. Everything would be fine, but this material strongly absorbs moisture, and is not suitable for thermal insulation of the bath.

Wood fiber boards - are made from crushed wood chips, but using a different technology than the well-known fiberboard - without chemical binders. The chips are ground, diluted with water, distributed over the grid. The mass simply dries, after which it is cut into canvases.

Among the safe heaters, one can also name natural heaters made of flax, wool, moss, reeds. Use as a warming material and sawdust, reeds and straw. But all these substances are combustible, and without treatment with special compounds they cannot be used to warm the bath.

Modern foil insulation

In this article, we could not help but talk about what modern insulation materials the Finns use in the construction of saunas. Hot finnish guys use insulation boards SPU Sauna Satu specially designed for wall and ceiling insulation in the sauna.

SPU Sauna Satu slabs are made of polyurethane foam and have an aluminum laminate coating on both sides.

SPU Sauna-Satu cooker

SPU Sauna Satu slabs can be attached to walls even without battens. The process of attaching the slabs to stone walls and wooden ceiling lathing is shown in the video.

At the moment, it is the SPU Sauna Satu boards that can be attributed to the most suitable heaters for baths and saunas.

conclusions

The main problems of warming the bath are associated with the warming of the steam room, since it has not only very high humidity, but also high temperature. Under the influence of high temperature, many heaters begin to release toxic substances that can harm human health. For this reason, it is necessary to carefully choose mineral wool insulation, as many of them contain phenol-formaldehyde resins that act as a binder.

Styrofoam and polystyrene foam should not be used as a heater, which, when heated to 60 degrees Celsius, begin to release toxic substances.

In fairness, it should be noted that many natural materials that are harmless at normal temperatures can, when heated, release substances that can harm human health.

Insulation of the inside of the steam room allows you to improve the quality of bathing and wellness procedures and save on paying for fuel for the stove. Therefore, each owner of the bath should plan such work. And in this article we will consider step-by-step instructions that allow you to equip internal insulation with your own hands.

What needs to be insulated in the bath

First of all - the seams between the logs or timber. Even a rounded log allows air to pass through the joints, which will cool the room and prevent the steam room from heating up to a high temperature. But this work is done during the construction of the log house.

After assembling the log house, it is necessary to insulate window and door openings by installing reliable and heat-resistant enclosing structures based on double-glazed windows and heat-resistant panels. Well, in the final, the steam room is warmed from the inside. Moreover, this work can be divided into three stages:

Floor insulation, because the bathhouse stands on freezing ground, and the basement alone will not be enough to protect the room from frost.
Increasing the heat resistance of the ceiling. All the heat accumulates in this zone, so low heat resistance will destroy the entire microclimate of the bath.
Wall insulation. During construction, only the seams between the logs are insulated. And this is quite enough for a comfortable stay indoors, but not enough for a bath. In this case, an additional layer of insulation will have to be filled on the walls.

As you can see, this is far from a very easy job, but there is nothing particularly difficult in this matter. You just need to study the technology of arrangement and choose the right insulation.

Before insulating the steam room, the owner of the bath must choose the right heat-insulating material, focusing on the following recommendations:

First, the insulator must exhibit high stopping power. The heat transfer coefficient must not rise above 0.2 W/(m K). And that's just for flooring. And for it is better to use a material with a coefficient of 0.2 W / (m K).

Secondly, the insulator should not react to moisture. Especially floor material. For walls and ceilings, we can use a membrane or reflector that cuts off moisture, but in the case of the floor, this material will not pass.

Thirdly, an open (floor) insulator must have high mechanical strength. On walls and attic floors special requirements no. Here the characteristics of the material can be improved due to the external finish.

Fourthly, the warming of the steam room involves constant contact of the material with the area of high temperatures. Some fans manage to heat up the room to 100-120 degrees Celsius, and 75-80 ° C is considered normal temperature. Therefore, the insulation should not melt or catch fire even in the case of a long, many hours of stay in this temperature range.

Fifthly, the material must be absolutely neutral to the human body. The release of harmful substances and the provocation of allergic reactions are excluded in principle. People go to the bath for health, not for new sores.

Eventually, the best option Insulation for the field should be recognized as granular expanded clay. He is not afraid of any mechanical load or moisture. It is better to put ordinary or foil mineral (basalt) wool on the walls and ceiling. It will withstand heat, and a finishing layer will protect it from moisture and possible mechanical impact.

Styrofoam, expanded polystyrene, foil polyethylene are not suitable for warming the steam room - they cannot withstand heating even up to 70 degrees Celsius.

Well, now that we have selected the materials, we can proceed to the direct insulation of the steam room from the inside, having previously studied the step-by-step instructions for the floor, ceiling and walls.

How to insulate the floor - a layered review

To do this, we will have to form a multi-layer structure consisting of waterproofing, thermal insulation and finishing in the direction from the ground. The first layer is waterproofing. It is made in the form of a polyethylene film, which is laid on the prepared soil. Moreover, the preparation consists in adding a layer of sand, with a thickness of 15 centimeters.

The second layer is thermal insulation. It is formed on the basis of expanded clay bedding. The thickness of this layer is usually equal to twice the thickness of the walls and ranges from 30 to 40 centimeters. Moreover, upon completion of the formation of the bedding layer, we must reach the level of the first crown of the log cabin of the bath.

Next, a reinforcing mesh with 20 cm cells is laid on the expanded clay and the screed is poured using sand-cement mortar with filler. The optimal thickness of the screed is from 5 to 8 centimeters. At the same time, along the perimeter of the floor, at the level of the future plinth, it is necessary to fill a waterproofing foil skirt that protects the logs from contact with concrete.

For finishing a heat-resistant floor, use tile or boards laid on the crate.

We insulate the ceiling - step by step instructions

To insulate the ceiling in the steam room, a completely different heat insulator is needed - foil mineral wool. It withstands heating up to 700 degrees Celsius and can easily endure the usual temperature in this area of the steam room, which does not rise above 160-180 ° C.

The finishing process itself begins with covering the ceiling with an antiseptic primer that protects the boards from fungus and mold. The second step is the stuffing of the crate boards on the ceiling, the depth of which should be equal to the thickness of the insulation (usually 10 centimeters). The step of laying the boards is equal to the width of a standard strip of mineral wool.

The third step is laying the insulation. After the assembly of the crate is completed, the space between the boards is filled with mineral wool, which is laid with foil outward (towards the floor). And all joints are carefully glued with foil tape. After completion of work on the ceiling, there should be no gaps.

The final step is the installation of a finishing board (lining) or plywood panels over the lathing. Moreover, in this case, it is necessary to read the description of the specification for the lining - options from pine and spruce and other resinous trees are not suitable in this case. The ideal lining for a bath is prepared from deciduous trees hard varieties.

How to insulate walls in a steam room - an overview of the process

The arrangement of vertical thermal insulation on the walls of the bath does not require the use of expensive foil mineral wool. In this case, it is enough to take ordinary mineral wool and aluminum foil, which will serve as a good vapor barrier and screen from high temperatures.

The installation process itself is as follows:

We impregnate the walls with an antiseptic - it will protect the log house from rot and fungus.
We fill boards with a thickness of 3-4 centimeters and a width of 2-3 cm more than the depth of the insulation on the walls. The step of placing the boards should match the width of the mineral wool roll. At the end, all boards must be impregnated with an antiseptic.
We lay mineral wool on dry logs (the antiseptic must dry), filling the spaces between the boards.
We stuff aluminum foil over the crate, rolling it in horizontal stripes from the bottom up. In this case, the upper strip should overlap with the lower one (2-3 centimeters will be enough). And as fasteners it is better to use staples (from a stapler). Moreover, it is better to glue the joints with foil tape.
We stuff planks 2 centimeters thick on the boards, previously impregnated with an antiseptic. So you will form a counter-lattice. And at the end, on top of these planks, we mount a hardwood lining.

Such a scheme allows you to assemble a very effective thermal insulation, protected from mechanical stress by lining. Therefore, almost all steam rooms are finished according to this scheme.

The most important issue in the design of the bath is the insulation and the ways in which this can be done as efficiently as possible.

Peculiarities

Most of the time, the bath was used only as a special room for hygiene procedures. Keeping heat in wooden buildings during the winter season was quite difficult. In Russia with its harsh climatic conditions the bath served purely for washing. However, the ancient Greeks spent time in their terms discussing politics and art, war and peace. Turning to the present, we can conclude that our attitude to the baths has adopted the features of ancient times. Banal to maintain hygiene allows the shower, and the bath is predetermined by the recreational role. FROM modern technologies and the materials in it, it is easy to set a comfortable temperature on any day, despite the cold weather.

The most important function of the bath is the steam room. The temperature in it is traditionally defined as 90°C and 130°C.

materials

A good choice of insulation will help taking into account several important characteristics. A high-quality material must have a vapor barrier, otherwise the penetration of moisture will worsen its condition and stop heat retention.

The raw materials that form its basis must meet environmental standards, otherwise the high temperature will provoke the release of toxins that pollute environment and harmful to human health. The heat in the room will linger for a longer time with a low degree of thermal conductivity of the insulation. The material must meet fire safety standards - its combustibility must be minimized by correctly matching the type of insulation coating and the temperature in the bath room.

The low hygroscopicity of the warming agent will protect the surface of the bath from the penetration of moisture from inside the room. The warranty period is longer for insulation with high water repellency. The insulating material must be able to retain its shape for a long time and not shrink, as a result of which the heat in the bath will remain for a long period.

The range of insulating materials is represented by three groups. Organic heat insulators have long been used to retain heat in the bath. They are made from natural eco-friendly raw materials. A common option among them is tow with or without impregnation of resin, wood sawdust, layers of moss, reeds, dense fibers of felt or jute. Natural ingredients are absolutely safe for human health, but have many negative qualities. The vegetable base of the insulation contributes to easy flammability, therefore, the level of fire safety of the building is reduced.

The dry structure of the substance is susceptible to moisture, which it absorbs from the air. The presence of water in the insulating layer contributes to its cooling under the influence of the temperature outside, as a result of which the bath cools down faster. Creating a thermal insulation layer from organic raw materials is a laborious process, the implementation of which requires experience in this field from the master.

Organic materials are attractive to small rodents who perceive it as food. Plant mass is a favorable environment for the development of microorganisms, the growth of mold and fungus.

The second option is semi-organic heat-insulating materials, the manufacture of which is carried out by analogy with the previous type, but with the addition of glue. The interaction of natural plant components with the adhesive base gives the insulation layer strength and hardness.

The insulating structure has a tiled appearance. Reed, peat and chipboards keep the heat inside the sauna for a long time. Exposure to steam adversely affects the bonding agent, diluting it, so the use of semi-organics is unacceptable in rooms with a high degree of air humidity. It is not recommended to lay tiled insulation in the steam room, where the moisture content in the air is maximum. This material is more suitable for warming the dressing room rooms.

The third type of insulating coating is synthetics. The variety of synthetic materials falls into two categories. Polymeric heaters include polystyrene foam, polystyrene foam and polyurethane foam. Their use is limited - the coating should not be allowed to be in the high temperature area. Strong heating of the polymer causes an internal chemical reaction, resulting in the formation of styrene, the vapors of which are harmful to human health. Also, high temperatures can cause a fire in synthetic insulation, so its use will be appropriate in a cool rest room.

Penoizol insulation, the only synthetic-based insulation material, is approved for use in steam rooms. On top of the polymer is a layer of thin aluminum foil that prevents heating to a dangerous level. Mineral heaters are allowed for use in any part of the bath. They are represented by two subspecies - basalt wool and glass wool. They are highly resistant to fire and high temperatures.

You can choose a structure from cinder block, expanded clay concrete blocks, gas block, gas silicate bricks. insulate old building can be foam or foam glass. For a cinder block or block system, chopped sawdust is most often chosen.

Warming scheme

The highest temperature in the bath is maintained in the steam room or in the sauna, while the dressing room is located on the border with the street, so it is constantly subject to slight cooling. Rest rooms are less dependent on the type of heat-insulating material, their air is specially warmed up weakly.

The process of laying the insulation is formed depending on the material of the structure of the bath. Built recently, due to the low thermal conductivity of wood, it does not need careful insulation. After 2-3 years wooden frame shrinks and crevices appear between the logs or beams. To insulate it, it is recommended to caulk between the crowns using natural material in order to maintain the microclimate inside the building.

A wooden building made of logs or timber requires time to dry. After drying, gaps form between the parts, through which cold air flows into the interior spaces. Jute fiber is used to fill narrow cavities between wooden elements, as it compacts well. Laying insulation directly during construction will facilitate the work. The final study of small areas is carried out after construction is completed using a mallet and caulk. The laying of insulation material in a brick bath is necessarily carried out during the construction process, since the brick quickly gives off heat.

The traditional scheme of insulation is a ventilated hinged facade. The insulation layer is placed with outer side walls, after which they are sheathed with siding or clapboard. A space filled with air is formed between the layer of insulating material and the outer coating. The presence of an air layer serves to preserve heat, prevents the formation of condensate vapors, the reproduction of putrefactive bacteria and the development of dampness. An alternative way to insulate the steam room is to install wooden structure around her. The heat-insulating properties of wood replace the insulating material. To do this, you need a beam, crate, stone wool, foil insulation and lining.

The surface of the beam is upholstered with a crate, then with stone wool. A foil insulation is applied to the layer of mineral material, after which the lining is finished with a clapboard. A panel-type bath implies light-weight heaters - reed plates, mineral wool and polystyrene foam. Before laying the heat-insulating coating panel walls must be treated with lime milk to eliminate the effects of negative factors. After drying, the lime structure will provide the bath building with fire resistance and resistance to decay processes. When a bath is located in a territory with a cold climate, it is recommended to insulate its walls with fiberboard or reed plates. In mild climatic zones, it is preferable to use gypsum or sawdust material.

Calculations

Before the start of insulation, the working area is limited. Areas not intended for this are pasted over with roll paper to avoid contamination. To insulate the ceiling and walls, you will need a 5x5 mm beam-rail. To secure the future layer of insulation, a crate is needed. For a brick bath, it is preferable to choose a drywall profile. The suspensions are fixed on average after 0.7 m, the distance between the profiles should be slightly less than the height of the insulation.

In a wooden bath, it is recommended to use bars. Warming bulk materials accompanied by maintaining a distance between the bars of 45-60 cm. wooden surface, or anchors with a stone base. Depending on the building material the length of the mounting hardware is selected. For wood - 2-2.5 cm, for denser structures - starting from 4 cm. The length is associated with the peculiarities of the use of fasteners.

During the installation of the crate, the fasteners are selected with a length that provides a strong fixation of the beam or drywall. The size of the beam section is determined taking into account the thickness of the heat-insulating layer being laid. When insulating with organic or semi-organic material, to ensure a long service life, it is imperative to use a vapor barrier film. Foil, electrical tape, self-tapping screws are auxiliary tools during work. For thermal insulation of the surface, foil tape is required. 1-2 coils are enough for the entire volume of the treated area. They glue the joints of the tile insulation to create a solid sealed plane. Of the tools in the process of insulation, you will need a knife, a level, a screwdriver and a plumb line.

Depending on the surface and its location, the amount of insulation required is calculated. When calculating the mass, it is necessary to take into account the rough costs and possible errors, which also consume material. For example, for a mixture based on sawdust, you will need: 10 parts of sawdust, 0.5 parts of cement, 1 part of lime and 2 parts of water. Another recipe for preparing an almost similar mass includes 8 parts of sawdust, 1 part of gypsum and the same amount of water. The composition of such a mixture includes 5 parts of sawdust and clay.

Mounting

A step-by-step instruction for warming a bath consists of several stages. To begin with, it is worth creating thermal insulation of openings. Leaky doors and windows allow a significant amount of heat to pass through and are an entry point for cold air from the street. Therefore, it is recommended to make the door to the steam room small, with the necessary minimum suitable parameters. To establish a barrier to the path of low-temperature air, the threshold should traditionally be located 25 cm above the floor level.

The door made of wood will have the lowest thermal conductivity. Component boards without chips and knots should be as even as possible and tightly adjacent to each other. If desired, the doors can be insulated, like walls, during the assembly process. After the natural shrinkage of the wooden product, the resulting cracks must be sealed with jute or tow, and the door will again store heat with high quality. The lighting in the bath for the most part is carried out artificial way, so the windows are made of small dimensions. The exception is the rest room, where the window can be of any size, however, in order to avoid hypothermia, it is also advised to make it small.

The glass used in the frames must be double. The air gap between the double glazing creates an accumulation of air that retains heat inside the sauna room. Glass is installed using sealant to eliminate holes between the frame that can let in cold air. The remaining gaps between the window opening and the frame must be filled with mineral insulation, for example, mineral wool, on top of which a layer of waterproofing film is applied.

Insulation of the ceiling surface includes work on the thermal insulation of the roof, because it large surface in the absence of an insulating layer, it will pass large volumes of cold air. Air heat rises during cooling, and an unstable roof will contribute to the rapid cooling of the bath. With a high-quality insulating roof coating, ceiling processing can be neglected. Laying insulation is possible provided that the bath is located separately from other buildings and has a pitched roof.

Warming is carried out using any heat-insulating coating laid on the attic floor. The process of laying synthetic insulation on the roof is similar to the technology of wall surface insulation. When using organic insulation, the frame is initially prepared. When pouring out a dry sawdust mixture, it must be dried, cleaned of resins and impregnated with an antiseptic. For insulation, a layer of sawdust is covered on top with a layer of membrane or sprinkled with ash.

The ceiling is insulated with basalt wool. It is laid on the surface of the walls with a pre-fixed frame. The heat-insulating layer must exceed the thickness of a similar coating on the walls, since warm air rising upwards contacts the ceiling surface, the temperature of which exceeds other temperature indicators. The insulating coating must be laid with small overlaps on the walls. In the future, it can be used to insulate walls by gluing the joints with foil tape.

The walls inside the bath are covered with an insulating composition after preliminary surface preparation. It needs to be given smoothness, so between brick walls gaps and cracks are puttied. Wooden walls are treated to eliminate the appearance of mold and fungi. First, bars or a drywall profile are attached to the wall surface. A heater is laid in the resulting space. A hydro-vapor barrier coating is applied on top of it and a wooden crate is installed.

Before installing it, it is necessary to measure the width of the insulation material. The resulting dimensions may not be valid due to possible deformation during movement. Therefore, the crate is fixed at a distance less than the resulting one so that the material is placed between the wall and the crate with little effort. The heat insulator must be placed between them as tightly as possible to avoid the formation of cracks that allow the penetration of cold air and the formation of condensate drops. The height of the crate should correspond to the thickness of the thermal insulation layer. The last step is finishing.

Do-it-yourself bars are attached to the wall surface, a heat-insulating component is placed between them. Then insulating material is laid in the same place. With a well-defined distance, the heat insulator is held on the wall surface without the use of supplementary fasteners. At the connection points, the foil heat insulator is sealed with aluminum tape for tightness. Similarly, the contact points of the insulating material with the crate are sealed with a capture of at least 5 cm of insulation and timber.

Sealing joints must be given Special attention to eliminate the possibility of liquid penetration into the insulation layer. In addition to laying a heat-insulating layer, protection against moisture is installed for it. In the steam room and washing room, a foil vapor barrier is used, which at the same time will reflect heat. Subsequently, the bath will warm up with less time and fuel costs. To warm the rest room and dressing room, the temperature of which is lower than in the steam room, you can use other heat-insulating materials. Their laying is carried out with the overlap of one plate with another by 5 cm and with their subsequent fixation with brackets using a stapler.

The places of joints and the installation of brackets for high-quality heat preservation are closed with a layer of foil tape. Do not leave a gap between the layers of vapor barrier material and insulation. A crate of wooden planks 20 mm thick is attached to the fixed bars for subsequent lining with a clapboard.

The floors in the bath are of two types - wooden or concrete. The technical side of the laying of the heat-insulating coating does not depend on the material of the floor, with the exception that the concrete structure requires a slightly larger layer of insulation. Expanded clay is a classic raw material for creating an insulating layer in the floor. The thickness of the layer of material to be filled must be accurately correlated with the thickness of the wall of the room. On average, the size of the expanded clay layer is 2 times the thickness of the walls. The degree of insulation can be increased by a reasonable increase in the backfill layer.

Immediately before the procedure of falling asleep, it is necessary to mark the base. It is produced by delimiting the area to be filled up into sections, the width of which is 1 m or another convenient value. The field with already prepared markings is covered vapor barrier film. When tensioned, its edges along the wall should be located above the floor level. Laying the film is not necessary if there is already roofing felt on the surface of the base. To facilitate the work, the installation of guides and their fasteners should be. They are located based on the applied markings and are attached with nails or screws.

Along the level boundary, it is necessary to place beacons - auxiliary parts, which will orient when falling asleep expanded clay. The installation height of the guides is calculated depending on the required thickness of the insulation. Expanded clay should be poured onto the surface and leveled with wooden lath appropriate length.

When insulating a wooden bath, the best option is a heater made from consumables - sawdust. To ensure their vapor barrier, you can use a simplified method - the amount of wood insulation necessary for one cell between the bars is poured into a plastic bag. The properties of polyethylene prevent the penetration of moisture into the sawdust mass.

The procedure for warming implies the beginning of work from the ceiling surface so that during its processing it does not accidentally damage the walls and floor. In the area of the chimney outlet, the temperature is high, therefore, for safety reasons, mineral insulation is used - basalt wool. It differs in refractoriness and fire resistance. The passage of the pipe through the ceiling must be closed with a protective metal plate.

In the sauna room, the microclimate is unique. Proper arrangement of the building involves warming the bath inside. This process is laborious, but quite doable on your own.

Information on how to properly insulate the bath inside will allow the owner to greatly improve its performance. After completion of the work, it will be possible to save on fuel and ensure the safety of thermal energy in the room.

Deciding how to insulate wooden bath from the inside with your own hands, you should consider a number of factors:

properties of the material used to provide thermal protection;
personal construction skills and abilities;
own preferences.

Features of materials for thermal protection

To decide how and what is better to insulate the bath from the inside, you need to know the conditions under which the materials will be used:

First of all, you need to take into account that both in the steam room and in the washing room the air is characterized by high humidity. In the dressing room, it is unlikely to be dry. Taking into account these factors, we can conclude: you need to choose a non-hygroscopic insulation or the material must have reliable vapor and waterproofing. Thermal insulation for a bath in a steam room must be of high quality.
In the steam room, the air temperature often reaches more than 100 degrees. Insulants such as extruded polystyrene and polystyrene foam, under conditions of strong heating, will begin to release substances harmful to human health. For the same reason, plastic panels and linoleum cannot be used to finish the steam room. In the first case, the products are subject to deformation even at 80 degrees of heat.
A significant part of the thermal energy under conditions of high temperature begins to be lost both due to heat transfer and in the form of thermal radiation. To prevent heat loss, the insulation for the bath on the walls from the inside must have a foil surface or a reflective layer consisting of foil must be provided in the thermal insulation scheme.

Insulation of different types of walls

The choice of how to insulate the walls of the bath from the inside depends on the type of material from which it was built:

If it is brick, stone or concrete products thermal protection required. The fact is that when there is no thermal insulation, the bath will have weeping walls and, as a result of temperature fluctuations, they will quickly begin to collapse. The thickness of the insulation should be chosen taking into account the parameters of the supporting structures and the climate in the region. Most often, experts recommend a 10-centimeter layer.
Is it necessary to insulate a wooden bath? On the one hand, the thermal protection of the building will not interfere, and on the other hand, wood can be called one of the best materials for the walls of the steam room and dressing room. Of course, it is required to insulate baths from a bar with a wall thickness of no more than 15 centimeters. Bath log buildings are thermally insulated when the cross section of the log does not exceed 20 centimeters.

From the inside, walls of greater thickness are either not insulated, or thermal protection is made with the arrangement of waterproofing and clapboard trim. The crate is arranged only if there are blockages on the walls.

Horizontally located strips of vapor barrier are fastened with a stapler with a 5 cm overlap to prevent water from penetrating under the material. First, the bottom sheets are hemmed. Polyethylene should not be used for vapor barrier due to high temperatures.

Choice of materials for insulation

Basalt wool is considered the best solution for insulating a bath from the inside. Rigid mats 10 cm thick are used. With thermal protection of the ceiling, the thickness of the heat-insulating layer should be about 15-20 centimeters, since heat loss mainly occurs through the ceiling.

To insulate the bath inside, you still need to have materials at your disposal:

For crates. The most reliable option for bath buildings made of brick or stone is to build a frame from a profile used for drywall (read: ""). The CD ceiling profile is often chosen, and the UD guide profile is used to make a border along the perimeter of the walls. The step of fixing direct suspensions is from 60 to 80 centimeters. The gap between the profiles must be made less by 1-2 centimeters compared to the width of the insulation boards. In wooden baths, bars are used as a profile.
For waterproofing. Requires heat-resistant material with foil, impervious to moisture and steam. There is a large selection of such products on the construction market. For example, you can purchase foamed foil polypropylene, designed for temperatures up to 150 degrees. This material is able to protect the walls of the room from dampness and reflect radiant heat, thereby reducing heat loss. So a layer of Penotherm 3 mm thick provides a degree of thermal protection like a 150 mm beam.
For fine finish . Usually, insulation is placed in a bath under the lining, as in the photo. This material is produced for final finishing from linden or aspen, since the products of these tree species are resistant to decay processes, do not heat up even at high temperatures, and retain their original appearance for a long time.

Thermal insulation of floors, windows and doors

When a decision is made on how to insulate the bath inside with your own hands, take into account the possibility of increasing the degree of thermal resistance at the ceiling and walls. True, the cool floor and the presence of drafts also take away a lot of heat.

To insulate the door leading to the steam room, a thick felt frame is attached to it, which will reliably cover the cracks. Wooden frames at the windows located in the steam room, dressing room and washing room are insulated with cotton wool.

As for plastic, it is not installed in places with high temperatures, but in other rooms you should not be afraid that polymers will undergo thermal decomposition. For guard plastic windows self-adhesive foam strips are used.

The choice of products, the better to insulate the bath inside, depends on the type of flooring. Expanded clay is poured onto the surface of the leaking wood floor, and boards are already mounted on top of the leveled backfill. It will be useful to understand how to insulate a bath from expanded clay concrete blocks from the insideso that problems do not appear later.

They begin to equip a concrete leaking floor with digging a foundation pit 50 centimeters deep.

The layers of the thermal insulation structure are arranged in the direction from bottom to top in the following sequence:

sand -5 centimeters;
polystyrene -20 centimeters;
concrete mixed in a ratio of 1: 1 with foam chips - 5 centimeters;
waterproofing;
concrete combined with vermiculite in a ratio of 1: 1 (this is the name of a natural material with low thermal conductivity) - 5 centimeters;
reinforced screed -5 centimeters.

In the process of pouring the foundation, it is necessary to equip the slope. A boardwalk is mounted on top of the concrete screed on the logs.

In the event that a continuous flooring, on top of the draft base, heat-insulating material is laid with a layer of 10-20 centimeters, it can be mineral wool or polystyrene. Then it is covered with waterproofing, not forgetting to overlap the walls. A reinforced screed 5-10 centimeters high is mounted on top of this layer.

Then, as a rule, lay a tile. Despite the fact that in the steam room the tiles do not heat up to a high temperature, it is advisable to provide for the presence wooden coasters for legs, so that visiting the bath was more enjoyable.

Arrangement of thermal protection of walls and ceiling

Insulation of the walls and ceiling of the bath from the inside is similar to how it is done in other rooms, while special attention should be paid to the reliability of laying the vapor barrier layer.

Stage one - creating a crate. The order of how to insulate the ceiling in the bath from the inside suggests that the distance from the crate to the base of the wall or ceiling must be made slightly larger than the thickness of the material for thermal insulation.

When using galvanized profiles, this gap is adjusted with the help of suspensions, and the bar is nailed with a lining, it can be a piece of the bar. For wooden crates, galvanized suspensions are also used.

The profile fastening sequence is as follows:

A UD guide profile is fixed along the perimeter of the walls or ceiling, observing a 60-centimeter step. To a beam or logs it is mounted with self-tapping screws, and to brick or concrete walls- screws with plastic dowels.
The axes of the CD profiles are marked, taking into account the fact that the gap between them should allow laying the heat insulator plates without trimming. Then hangers are attached to the wall, observing a step of 60-80 centimeters.
To install and fix CD profiles to suspensions, metal screws 9 mm long are taken. The free edges of the suspensions need to be bent.

Stage two - installation of insulation. Basalt wool in slabs are placed between the bars (profiles). Similarly, the insulation of a ventilated facade or loggias is performed. Work must be done in a respirator (gauze bandage) and special glasses. The fact is that the small fibers of this material are volatile and, once on the human mucosa, greatly irritate it.

A standard sharp knife is used to cut the slabs. The insulation should not be crushed during installation. Regarding how best to insulate the bath, you need to know that with a constant weight of the material, the smaller its volume, the worse its heat-insulating qualities will be.

Stage three - vapor barrier device. Strips of material in the horizontal direction are fixed from the bottom up, observing a 5-centimeter overlap. The foil side of the insulation should be turned inside the room.

The method of fixing the vapor barrier depends on the material from which the crate is made. So, before you insulate the steam room in a log bath, you need to stock up on a construction stapler. In the presence of a galvanized profile, the strips are fixed with double-sided aluminum tape.

To create a high-quality vapor barrier, the insulation not only needs to be fixed, all existing joints should be glued with the same adhesive tape. Then moisture will not be able to penetrate the insulation.

Stage four - clapboard lining. To make the room cozy and beautiful after the completion of the insulation, it is necessary to finish the walls.

First, prepare the tools and materials necessary for the work, including:

circular saw or electric jigsaw;
drill - screwdriver;
rasp (required when fitting and processing the edge of the lining);
building square (necessary for marking boards);
level and plumb (they are in demand when checking verticals and horizontals);
metal clamps for fixing wooden lining;
copper or galvanized screws, which are needed to fasten the kleimers to the bars;
self-tapping screws for metal;
wooden skirting boards for finishing corners.

When carrying out work, you need to take into account a number of points:

There should be a small gap between the lining and the vapor barrier layer. In addition, gaps (no more than 1-2 centimeters) are arranged along the edges of the ceiling, as well as in the upper and lower parts of the walls.

The end boards in each row of lining should be fixed with screws through and through, and their caps will be covered by the plinth. All other boards will be held by the clamps.

The above procedure for carrying out work allows you to both insulate the old bath from the inside, and absolutely new building. The thermal protection of the bath structure is a very important stage, since the efficiency of the steam room depends on its quality. The main thing in the work is to take into account the slightest nuances and then the result will exceed expectations.

The warmer the bath itself is, the less firewood will be consumed to heat it and the longer it will retain heat. In general, the warming of the bath is a complex process. And the rest room, steam room and dressing room can be insulated in completely different ways: due to their constant microclimate. So how to properly insulate the bath? Let's figure it out.

Insulation of the bath from the inside: photos, diagrams and videos

So, how to insulate a bath from the inside, depending on what material it was built from.

Features of the thermal insulation of the log house

Since ancient times, no one has ever insulated a log cabin - even the floors. Just from time to time the logs changed and the lower crowns were repaired. But today, when a good log house and a real Russian steam room are almost a rarity, the question of high-quality insulation is far from the last. After all, its longevity depends on how protected from moisture and cold the bath is.

In general, insulation in a wooden bath is necessary only when the dimensions of the timber are small, in all other cases caulking and good waterproofing are really enough. For internal insulation of a sauna steam room from a bar, a traditional “pie” with mineral wool is used - except that only the thickness of the working layer itself can be 2 times less than for a brick steam room.

Brick bath and its insulation

How to insulate a bath from foam, cinder blocks and concrete

Cinder blocks and foam blocks themselves have quite good thermal insulation materials due to its porous structure. But they can still freeze in the winter, and therefore it is necessary to additionally insulate the block bath. Otherwise, all its walls will delight in frosts with unaesthetic dark wet spots.

Mineral wool and fiberglass are most suitable for such a bath. But in general, the whole pie must be provided with a reliable vapor barrier - any blocks are extremely disliked high humidity in the air, and absorb water like sponges. In general, it can be used as a heater and foam.

The first task in warming aerated concrete walls baths - this is to remove the ice mass of concrete from the heating circuit. Why, inside the entire structure, the frame must be done with an indent from the walls. Moreover, the resulting space must be well ventilated - for this, at the top of the bath and at the bottom, special windows-vents must be made from the outside. During the bath procedures, they must be closed, and during the drying of the bath - open. And then the usual “pie” of warming is made in the steam room and washing room. The most standard one looks like this: aerated concrete or block wall - a frame for insulation with an indent from the wall - insulation - board - vapor barrier where the steam room is finished with aspen or cedar board. Thus, the ice walls do not have to be heated - that's all the tricks.

Rules for warming a frame bath

Option two: the warming of the frame bath occurs according to this scheme. A vapor barrier made of parchment (or roofing material, or roofing felts) is laid directly on the frame, which is fastened by wood cladding. Between the resulting internal and outer walls you need to put foam fiberboard or heat-insulating slabs of reeds. All this is covered from all sides with layers of asbestos cement, which makes the frame bath both stronger and warmer.

You can also insulate the frame bath with sawdust, gypsum and wood chips. All this is mixed with lime in a ratio of ten to one and a thick layer is laid between the outer and inner lining. The main thing is that the sawdust is well dried, and the layers are treated with iron sulphate.

Features of ceiling and floor insulation

Baths are ideal for the pre-bathroom and washing room ceramic tile- but under it, too, must be thermal insulation. Here is the most common scheme for warming the floor in the bath: a cranial bar is sewn to the beams, on which a draft floor of boards is laid. After that comes a vapor barrier layer, and then the space between the beams must be filled with the selected heat-insulating material - polystyrene foam or expanded clay, for example.

On top of this is placed reinforced metal grid and poured concrete screed. After the latter has dried, the floor is waterproofed with a waterproofing layer. Again, the screed is 3-5 cm thick and you can build in the underfloor heating system if desired. And finally, ceramic tiles are placed on the screed.

But in the steam room and the rest room, the floor is necessarily made of wood - so that the so-called "heat stroke" does not happen.

Making a "pie" when insulating the ceiling

The warming of the bath from the inside always starts from the ceiling - after all, the highest temperature is always at its level, and therefore special attention should be paid to this part of the steam room. The ceiling should be arranged as follows: vapor barrier - insulation - sheathing - beam beam - ceiling boards.

If the attic or the second floor in the bath is residential, then the insulation cake will look a little different: the ceiling boards need to be smeared with clay in a two-centimeter layer and covered with wood chips up to 20 cm, or expanded clay or use some kind of insulation. The main thing is that it should be the right thickness.

This is how the insulation of a bath from foam blocks, a log house and a brick happens. Each type of building has its own technology, and knowing at least its basics will help you always keep your steam room warm.

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