Do I need to water the garden before planting? Soil preparation for spring planting

Efficient soil cultivation

Digging up the soil

The first important operation with the land in preparing the site for planting is digging the land (if you do not take into account its release from debris, weeds, leveling, etc.). To start digging, you should understand its depth, as well as the characteristics of the soil. Heavy soil requires digging to a depth of about 50 cm. Medium soil is dug up mainly by 60 cm, and very light, sandy - by 70 cm or more. We should not forget to lay organic fertilizers in parallel with digging, however, manure should not be deeper than 20 cm from the surface. With a sufficiently deep digging (over 20 cm), it is necessary to select stones, roots, etc. from the ground.

As a rule, the soil is dug deep in autumn or winter - before spring and the sowing period, the earth should settle. Deep digging enriches the earth with oxygen, and it is easier for water to reach the lower layers. If the upper soil layer is as fertile as the lower one, then they can be mixed, otherwise you will have to remove the upper layer and fold it separately, so that after digging up the lower layers, return the upper one back.

Deep autumn digging is carried out early, so that bacteria have time to work on the treated areas before frost. Also in order to make the most of the autumn rains. Moisture will not be absorbed into the uncultivated compacted earth, while the supply of water in the soil is extremely important. Moist land is less watered and less effort is expended on growing crops. In autumn, the soil is dug up by about 30 cm without breaking clods - after frost, by spring they will become crumbly. During this period, manure is introduced. With a sufficiently deep digging, the fertilizer is first scattered over the site, after which it is buried by 15 cm and only then proceed to a deeper digging. Also in the fall, they neutralize a variety of pests that, after digging, appear on the surface. Some die there, while others burrow deep into the ground, where they die due to lack of oxygen.

❧ Seeds of some vegetables will germinate better if they are exposed to 3.5kV/cm AC voltage for 10-20 minutes, and any seeds that have been in a sealed chamber with ammonia gas for 10~20 minutes are 90% better sprout and grow twice as fast

In the spring you can see how good the soil is, fertilized and dug up in the fall. It is homogeneous and with excellent structure. If it was dug deep, then in the spring there is no need for a similar procedure - just level it with a rake. You just have to hurry, because under the sun the soil quickly loses such valuable moisture.

When the ground is covered in snow winter period, then it is compacted, therefore it requires a shallow spring digging (8-12 cm).

If digging was not carried out in the fall, then it will have to be done in the spring, but also shallow - 15-18 cm, moreover, when the state of the earth is average between wet and dry. After digging, the earth is immediately combed with a rake.

Soil loosening

Digging is a key mechanical technique for the main tillage, but loosening refers to surface tillage, although it may well be deep. Its essence lies in fine processing, which increases, albeit not as significantly as digging, the access of oxygen to the ground, which contributes to the development of the root system. The layers of earth remain in place during loosening, and the result is the destruction of the soil crust (surface loosening should be carried out after watering or heavy rain, when a crust is just formed), the elimination of weed sprouts, and large roots are dug up. If the soil is loosened often enough, this reduces the evaporation of moisture and improves the absorption of water into the soil. As technical means when loosening, hoes, choppers and various cultivators are used. Growing vegetables requires regular loosening of the soil to eliminate weeds and improve the soil next to the plants.

There is such a technique - deep loosening, which is carried out in the spring. For this, forks can be used to shift the soil layer. The process is as follows: first you need to stick the fork vertically into the ground, then tilt it towards you, deepening the fork into the soil, move the handle forward, shifting the layer of earth. Next, you should loosen the surface to a depth of about 8-9 cm, pouring ash, compost into the soil, mineral fertilizers and micronutrients. Deep loosening is used when it is necessary for oxygen and roots to reach the subsoil, but it is not necessary to turn the earth over.

It is also worth mentioning the point of view on loosening (and digging) representatives of quite popular ecological farming. So, they consider it harmful to the soil and try to use it to a minimum. In their opinion, worms and the remains of plant roots are useful because they provide channels for the access of oxygen and moisture, and during loosening (and digging) the internal structure of the earth is disturbed, it sags, the channels disappear with corresponding consequences. In addition, loosening and digging are deadly for earthworms and other microorganisms, due to which the humus layer is formed. And finally, when the soil is dug up, the humus layer mixes with the deep earth, which is not homogeneous, as a result of which the humus layer becomes poorer, which leads to a loss of soil fertility. Constantly mixed with an infertile deep layer, it becomes extremely thinner, and the soil loses its fertility. There are tools such as flat cutters and weeders that minimize the damage from loosening.

For a garden, growing plants without the use of intensive loosening and digging is possible, since there are no plants with a deep root system. Indeed, you can use minimal digging and loosening, and fertilize superficially. And long before planting, because it is necessary to give earthworms the opportunity to assimilate top dressing. If everything is done correctly, then weeds will grow reluctantly, moisture will evaporate less, the structure of the earth will improve and productivity will increase. In any case, before the whole operation, it is necessary to remove the existing weeds by mulching or chemicals. Also, the use of non-digging equipment is justified in the presence of a system of beds.

Soil mulching

Under this intricate name lies an elementary, but very effective agrarian technique, the essence of which is to cover the soil with any materials that protect it from excessively abundant weed growth, drying out, compaction and imbalance of the water and air environment in the upper soil layer. As a result of using this technology, the farmer rarely needs to weed and loosen, and water too.

The set of mulch materials is very diverse, you can use different organic and inorganic materials: sawdust, grass, bark, paper, stone, roofing material, film, etc. The most useful organic material is rotted compost without weed seeds.

Naturally, it is better to use organic materials, since they do not retain air and water, rot over time, nourishing the earth with microelements and having a beneficial effect on its structure. But it should be remembered that certain organic matter changes the acidity of the soil, so you need to carefully select materials for mulch.

In this perspective, compost seems to be an ideal mulch, since it does not affect the acidity of the soil in any way (it has a slightly alkaline reaction) and greatly enriches it with nutrients (in particular, phosphorus).

Various wood wastes are slightly acidic. They must be composted at least a year before use. If the bark comes into play, then the size of the pieces should not exceed 50 mm. It is good for mulching raspberries, fruit trees and shrubs. Peat has an acidic reaction and is well suited for mulching under plants growing in acidic soil, for example, clayey peat makes loose, so that it passes water and oxygen. On the other hand, peat has a black color, because of which it will heat up under the sun and the earth under this material will overheat. That is, peat is not suitable for continuous mulching, but for powdering rows of vegetables.

The use of freshly cut grass is useful in that it enriches the soil with nitrogen, while dry grass, on the contrary, takes nitrogen from the ground. There should be no weed seeds in the grass. It is better to dry the freshly cut grass a little so that it does not rot in the beds. Before straw is applied, nitrogen fertilizers are applied to the soil.

Eggshells are alkaline and this mulch effectively resists slugs and snails.

The described procedure is recommended to be performed in late spring. The earth at this time is warm, it has already warmed up, and wet, since the snows have melted. However, there are no strict requirements for the timing of mulching. It is only necessary to take the necessary preparatory measures: eliminate weeds, thoroughly moisten the soil, fertilize, if necessary, loosen. Then you can use mulch, which is laid in a layer no thicker than 50 mm. Gradually, the layer can thin out due to natural factors, so it should be replenished periodically. However, you need to be aware that mulch laid on poorly heated ground may slow down the development of plants, due to the lower temperature under the mulch compared to the temperature of uncovered ground (by several degrees). In this case, you need to remove the mulch and let the earth warm up for 2-3 warm days.

Anything can serve as an object of mulching: berries, greenhouses, beds, plantations, flower beds, fruit bushes and trees. The stems of plants, the zone of the root collar must be free from covering material, otherwise they may rot. If the plant is perennial, then the mulch can not be removed, but every year the layer should be replenished. Under one-year-olds, a layer of mulch is buried in the ground if there is no need for rotting material, or moved to compost heap so that the material continues to rot. Dry grass can be collected in separate place for the future.

When mulching, the type and composition of the soil must be taken into account. In particular, sandy-clay soil is heavy, and here it is enough to throw in a covering material with a layer of 20 mm, since with a greater thickness, rotting will begin from below. It is better to add material later. 2-3 gardening seasons will pass, and it will be noticeable how the soil structure has improved.

It is usually customary in the spring to once again dig up the garden and the garden, wrapping the layers of the earth. I am against this concept, so I will not talk about how to dig. A bad deed is not a smart one. If you decide, out of habit, to ruin your breadwinner by digging, you can do it without advice.
I want to talk about how to prepare the soil for planting without using a shovel or cultivator.

How to ensure looseness of the soil?

Of course, it is better to take care of the looseness of the soil in the fall. But if suddenly, for some reason, you decided only at the beginning of the season that you would stick to Organic Farming and, you will no longer dig, then you can catch up, albeit partially.

As soon as the snow melts, it is necessary to immediately sow the entire sown area with green manure.

Oats and rye well loosen the soil with roots to a great depth. And phacelia and white mustard, although they do not have deep roots, they give an abundant green mass, which can then be used as mulch.

• For heavy soils that silt or cake during the winter, I would advise sowing oats or rye.
• For lighter soils, sand or sandy loam, it will be enough to sow phacelia, vetch, mustard or oil radish.

To prepare the soil for planting green manure seeds in the ground, there is no need to dig up the garden. It is enough to sleep it with a regular glander or use Fokin flat cutter. It is necessary to deepen the seeds only 0.5 - 2 cm deep into the soil.

You can sow/scatter seeds on uncultivated soil and only then dredge the area. When Sapa breaks the top layer of soil to a depth of up to 5 cm, some of the seeds will mix with the soil and hide under it. There is no need to try to deepen all the seeds. Then you can level the soil with a rake if necessary. If the spring is dry, then after sowing green manure, the garden must be watered.

After a week or two, friendly green shoots should appear. It will be great if they get ahead of the emergence of weeds, leaving them no chance and room for development. When green manure plants reach a height of 20 - 25 cm, they can be mowed, leaving the root system in the soil to rot.

In the beds where it is planned to plant seedlings of peppers, tomatoes, cucumbers, melons and other heat-loving vegetables, green manure does not need to be touched until the vegetables are planted. Until time X, when it will be necessary to plant seedlings in the ground, the greenery will develop to such an extent that it will cover the fragile seedling sprouts from the scorching sun, wind and bad weather, and also protect them from sudden frosts.

It is necessary to plant seedlings in holes dug directly in green manure, around the sprout of seedlings it will be necessary to free a place with a diameter of 10–15 cm from green manure. You can cut or pull out green manure plants and mulch the soil around the seedlings with them. When the sprouts of cultivated plants get stronger and develop sufficiently, green manure will need to be carefully cut with a flat cutter.

The green manure roots left in the soil will not only help to loosen the soil to a sufficient depth, saturate it with air, make it water and moisture permeable, but also rotting, saturate the soil with nutrients. So there will be no need to add manure to the soil.

How to improve soil fertility?

In addition to sowing green manure, soil fertility can be increased in another way. Moreover, the method that I will now describe works more efficiently in combination with green manure crops.

Meet Effective Microorganisms

You probably guess that the soil is not a dead substance, that microorganisms live in it, which break down organic matter, help plant roots breathe and receive nutrients. But there are also microorganisms that harm plants. The balance of these two forces depends only on you.

Digging up your garden, preparing the soil for planting, you inevitably reduce the amount of useful flora and fauna that die from sunlight and air when you turn over the layers of the earth.

After several years of applying the wrong agricultural practices, the amount of useful microflora becomes so critically small that even the introduction of tons of fertilizers and manure does not bring the desired result. And all because there is simply no one to split these fertilizers and manure into elements available to plants.

My recipe for increasing soil fertility is to replenish the population of beneficial microorganisms in the soil in time.

In stores for gardeners and gardeners you can find such drugs: "Emochki", "EM-1", "Baikal-1", "Emochki-Bokashi", "Oksizin" or other analogues.

At the very beginning of the summer season, before sowing green manure, or even during sowing or immediately after, it is necessary to introduce effective microorganisms into the soil. To do this, you can buy drugs in liquid form. According to the instructions on the package, the contents must be diluted with water in a certain proportion. The resulting solution should be sprayed all over the soil or poured from a watering can. If you use a sprayer, the consumption will be much less.

Effective microorganisms will come to life, multiply, and begin to process all the organic matter that is in the soil. The roots of cut green manure will also be recycled.

When you sow or plant the main crops, then nutrients will already be ready for them, which, moreover, will be in a form available for assimilation by plants.

How to protect yourself from diseases and pests?

Spring has just begun, and it is necessary to take care of preserving the health of your future harvest now. You should not wait for the appearance of pests or signs of disease on your plants, it is better to prevent all this.

Perhaps you thought that I would now tell you how to poison the bear and the larvae of the cockchafer. But you were wrong. I am not a supporter of the use of chemical insecticides and other drugs that poison the soil, and with it our future harvest. Any problem can be dealt with by using biological preparations.

Meet:

• Metarizin- an effective biological product based on a fungus that destroys the bear, larvae of the May beetle, wireworm and other pests living in the soil. He does this gradually, during the season, but for a long time - for several years.

Metarizine can be applied directly to the soil in early spring together with any other biological products or fertilizers. The unique composition of the drug includes sodium humate, which increases soil fertility and at the same time develops immunity from diseases in plants.

• Agrozin- the preparation improves the structure of the soil. If the soil is treated with Agrozin before or during planting, the plants will quickly grow, and then give a wonderful bountiful harvest.

It is possible to introduce Metarizin and Agrozin into the soil at any time. The preparations are diluted in water, then they can be sprayed on the soil or watered from a watering can. The use of these drugs is the key to your peace of mind for several years. And good harvests will not keep you waiting.

In conclusion, I would like to note that all of the above measures for preparing the soil for planting seeds or seedlings work well in combination. Green manures, Effective microorganisms and biological products will provide you with a bountiful harvest of organic food, and you will not waste extra time for the fight against annoying pests and the introduction of manure or mineral fertilizers into the soil.

Preparation of beds for planting vegetables and herbs is carried out in early spring, when the ground dries up from melted snow. It is important to know how to improve the quality of the soil and take care of the soil in greenhouses and greenhouses in order to grow a great crop.

Spring planting of young seedlings in open ground and greenhouses require careful preparation. Having equipped a place for planting, it is necessary to proceed with an important procedure - preparing and improving the quality of the soil for planting vegetable crops.

We prepare the soil for planting in open beds and a greenhouse

In the Moscow region, work on soil preparation should begin in April, when the earth has dried out and warmed up enough. Since the climate changes every year, you need to be able to independently determine the readiness of the soil for planting season:

• it is necessary to monitor the air temperature (10-15 degrees Celsius, the best time for preparation);
• pay attention to the soil itself: it should be dry and not stick to the shovel.

Garden care in spring

Under the weight of moisture and snow cover, the soil settles. It should be loosened with a rake or a cultivator to preserve the nourished moisture and structure. If the site was planted with winter crops, the land must be cultivated with a harrow. It is best to mulch the area in the fall so that the soil remains loose with the advent of spring.

If you did not prepare the beds before winter, then with the advent of heat it will be necessary to dig up the site, removing weed roots. The procedure should be carried out after lunch, when the topsoil warms up sufficiently.

After turning over, the bottom layer will also heat up. The dug-up bed must be loosened with a rake so that it does not dry out. The remains of vegetation can be sent to the compost pit.

You can improve the quality of the soil with the help of microelements. Garden crops are often deficient in iron, copper, manganese, molybdenum and zinc. It is necessary to add green sand or algae flour to the soil (you can buy it at a specialized store, or make it yourself if there is a reservoir), which are rich in these elements.

For such a procedure, purified sludge and rotted leaves left after cleaning gutters are ideal. This method is completely organic.

How to prepare the soil in a greenhouse

The soil in the greenhouse must be changed periodically, even if crop rotation is observed. If you plan to grow the same plants as last year, the procedure is required.

The top layer of soil is sent to the compost pit and replaced with ready-made humus. The beds are sown with early greens and radishes. When you harvest from them in a month, the site will be ready for planting seedlings of vegetables.

How to prepare a new site for planting

If you decide to expand the landing area, then you should properly process the virgin lands. To do this, cut the turf in small squares. With a shovel, cuts are made on four sides, and then cut from below.

There are several ways to use the resulting material:

• The removed sod is sent to the compost pit. The soil at the site of the future bed is loosened with a pitchfork and covered with a layer of humus, compost and loose garden soil. In this area, it is recommended to plant large-seeded crops, such as: pumpkin, beans or corn;
• In the absence of a compost heap, you can turn the pieces of turf upside down with grass and lay them on the site, then beat them well with a shovel. This place must be covered with a black film so that the weeds do not grow, and the turf is well overripe. Such soil in the future is suitable for seedlings of tomatoes or berry bushes.

How to improve the quality of the soil for planting garden crops

There are a number of measures to improve the quality of soil for planting garden crops.

• Nitrogen is necessary for the active development of the aerial parts of plants, phosphorus is useful for the roots, and potassium helps fight diseases. The description of each culture contains information about the plant's need for these elements, and their proportions;
• Give preference to organic fertilizers, since synthesized ones only temporarily feed the plants, but do not improve the quality of the soil. Fertilizers of plant and animal origin create and maintain the necessary microflora in the soil;
• Use your own compost. A properly organized and prepared compost pit will allow you to get quality fertilizer, which can significantly improve the characteristics of the land at no particular cost;
• Use mixed soil with compost for new crops. Each plant has its own ratio of fertilizer and soil. For example, vegetable crops need 20% compost and 80% mixed soil. This will create conditions for good growth seedlings and increase yields;
• Crop rotation planning. It is not worth planting the same crops in the same place year after year, this quickly depletes the soil and weakens it. Make a plant rotation schedule and stick to it every year;
• Introduction of fungi and bacteria into the soil. Such additives can be purchased in specialized stores. Their main task is to improve the soil. For example, the fungus Mycorrhiza helps the root system of plants to receive more moisture and essential nutrients, and nitrogen fixing bacteria enrich the soil with nitrogen.

Outcome

When preparing the soil for planting in the spring, it is worth remembering that each garden culture has its own needs for fertilizers and additives. Regular crop rotation should be carried out, organic fertilizers should be applied and moisture should be retained to avoid washing out the soil. It is important to take into account the recommended norms of certain microelements indicated on the seed packages, and, if necessary, carry out laboratory analysis soil.

After all, "spring day feeds the whole year." For summer residents, this proverb is like a law, so with the advent of the first heat, they rush to their plots. Nothing can prevent the beginning of the gardening season, neither sudden snow, nor the still cold wind, nor rain. What you need to do in the spring to guarantee yourself good harvest?

Preparing the beds in the spring - a memo for beginner gardeners

When preparing the soil in spring, the first step is to remove what is left in the garden from last year. Plants that were used for snow retention in winter should be disposed of.

Mulching

The easiest way to dispose of plant waste is to collect and put it in a compost heap. But there is a better option. If branches and plant residues are processed into mulch, the soil on the site will receive additional organic matter and will not become poorer.

For this there is a very useful tool- garden shredder It is designed for crushing various garden debris of plant origin: branches, tree bark, stems, leaves, weeds, corn cobs and others. All this can be easily turned into a wonderful organic mulch.

Wood chips decompose for a long time - almost 5 years, but this is how Canadians restore soil fertility on depleted lands. Mulching not only enriches the soil with natural useful elements, but also retains moisture in it, protects plants from overheating and return frosts. Thanks to the chopper, the garden becomes more well-groomed.

Weed control

Of course, it is better to border the beds and bring in the imported soil in layers, interspersing it with organic matter. You can see an example of such a global improvement in the structure of the soil in our experience of building a high bed - we also bought fertile soil there.

top dressing

Spring fertilization is a very important agricultural practice. It is best to use organic matter: humus, compost, weed infusions. It is last year's unripe compost that can be used during deep digging (if you decide to dig all the same, of course). It will help to grow a good harvest of pumpkin: cucumbers, zucchini, pumpkins. These plants simply adore immature organics. Absorbing nutrients fresh, they will grow and develop rapidly. And immature compost will be delighted with worms, which immediately form numerous colonies on the site.

We, under pumpkin crops, lay organic matter on the beds since autumn - we collect fallen leaves, carrion and kitchen waste. And in the spring we move apart the unripe plant residues and plant seedlings. Significantly accelerates the decomposition of organic matter right in the garden EM preparations, as well as a little compost left for the winter in the underground.

One bucket of warm overwintered compost is enough for 30 m² of beds. We spied this trick from Yu.I. Slashchinina and we use it with pleasure. It has been proven that beneficial microorganisms that have overwintered in the heat quickly remove soil microbes from anabiosis and the yield on such beds is higher.

Ashes and mature compost are suitable for almost all plants without exception. Carrots do not like ashes - root crops are densely overgrown with thin roots, becoming, as it were, hairy. If both of these fertilizers are laid in the beds, then the plants will quickly gain green mass. Ash and rotted compost provide crops with almost all mineral components: potassium, calcium, magnesium, iron, sulfur, boron, manganese and others. And all of them are perfectly absorbed by plants.

High-quality work with the soil for a novice summer resident is the key to a future harvest. Take the time and prepare the beds in the spring, and then throughout the season you will enjoy the juicy and tasty "results" of your work.

Preparation for the gardening season begins in early spring. But before that, at the end of winter, careful planning must be done so that preparatory work proved to be the most effective. If you have a site plan, great. If not, you will have to make a trip to the dacha and conduct a “reconnaissance” of the area. You need to get an accurate idea of ​​what and how much you will grow in the coming season. And as soon as April comes, start preparing the land for the future bountiful harvest.

Preparation of beds in the spring begins depending on climatic conditions your area. Traditionally in the middle lane this is April. The main thing is that the snow melts and the temperature rises above zero.

You should not go "into the field" as soon as the last snow has disappeared. Wait until the sun dries the top layer of soil, and the moisture from the melting snow goes deeper into the ground.

While the garden looks like a mud bath, the summer resident has something to do. Gardening also requires attention. And so as not to waste precious time on processing and trimming fruit trees and berry bushes, do this first.

They need to be freed from insulation and protective shelters, whitened if you have not done this before, sanitary pruned until the buds wake up, and perform preventive treatment in order to save the young green leaves that will soon appear from greedy pests.

How to know that the soil is ready for cultivation

To understand whether or not the land is ready for spring preparation of beds, people have long used a proven method. Take some earth in the palm of your hand and try to crumble it. The soil should break up into small fragments.

If it lies in a sticky block, it is too early to process. But if it crumbles as soon as you touch it, then you are a little late, and the earth has dried up.

You should not wait for the soil to dry out, otherwise you will have to carry out water-charging watering of the entire garden before sowing. To make the soil ready for cultivation faster, for sowing cold-resistant and early crops, pour peat on the remaining snow on the beds. This will speed up the warm-up and allow you to start processing earlier.

Preparation by stages

As with any planned action, spring training the beds have their own stages, each of which must be completed in its own time. Much depends on what garden work were held in the fall.

Digging

If you have not dug up the ground since autumn (it is recommended to do this in October, when the crop is harvested, the remains are removed, but the cold has not yet come in full force), digging will be the first step in preparing for sowing. Don't dig deep in the spring. If autumn digging is done 25 cm deep, in spring 15 cm is enough. But the turnover of the reservoir must be complete so that all the lower part of the soil is on top.

Fertilizer

Simultaneously with digging, the soil is saturated with nitrogen. You can only apply well and completely rotted compost or manure. If in the fall you dug up the garden and added organic matter, you can skip these two steps and go directly to loosening. If you are digging and fertilizing in the spring, wait a week for the soil to recompact slightly.

loosening

The dug up earth must be loosened. The loosening layer should be shallow - 5-10 cm. At the same time, all the roots of weeds are removed so that they do not germinate, becoming an obstacle to the sprouts of sown cultivated seeds. If digging is carried out with a shovel, then for loosening it is better to use a rotary cultivator or, in the case of the formation of earthen blocks, a star roller.

These devices can break up earth seals, give the soil uniformity and light structure.

Weeds and other plant waste that you have removed from the garden can be composted. Also, autumn foliage collected from the site is allowed here, if the trees are not affected by fungal diseases. Plants can be transferred to compost pit manure or sprinkle with humus. In the first case, it will take more time to rot the compost mass.

Leveling and marking ridges

Loose soil must be leveled. This can be done with an ordinary rake. After that, you can start marking the ridges. Traditionally, the maximum width of the beds should not exceed 1.2 m, so that it is convenient to carry out sowing, weeding, breaking through and other plant care work. The length can be any, at your discretion.

Along the edge of the bed, if there is no border on the border with the passage, it is good to fill in earthen rollers, up to 8 cm high. They will not allow moisture to drain from the ridge during irrigation and protect the usable sown area from the penetration of weeds from the outside.

If the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe garden allows, create ideal beds, the width of which will be 60-70 cm. Between them, arrange paths of approximately the same width. Then everyone, even tall garden plants, will have enough sunlight, moisture and space in the soil to grow in full force.

Interesting way:

The paths are also dug up, like the ridges, but not as deep, only to remove weed rhizomes from the soil. After the beds are ready, the paths are sprinkled with sawdust or other mulching material. So weeds will not grow on them, which otherwise will soon be on the useful area of ​​​​the garden, interfering cultivated plants and taking away their nutrients.

Can be equipped high beds. This is especially true in the northern regions. Their borders are outlined half a meter wide wooden beam, slate, board, any materials so that you get a kind of box. The inside is filled with earth at a level higher than 35-45 cm than the level of the garden. The width can be about a meter, but not more than 1.2 m.

How to improve the soil

Sometimes it is necessary to improve not only the structure, but also the quality of the soil. In the spring, this is done by fertilizing. To understand exactly what substances need to be applied, evaluate the quality of the soil. This can be done manually by determining the type by the nature of the earthy coma. Clay soils from a coma do not break. Fertile chernozems break up with medium force. Sandstone crumbles instantly.

What can be used.

1. organic fertilizers.
2. mineral fertilizers.
3. Peat or sand bedding.

When applying fertilizers and auxiliary substances, the measure is important. Don't cut many components, choose one or two, depending on the needs of your soil.

What ingredients are added to the soil.

How to cook ridges in greenhouses

In the greenhouse in the spring, it is also necessary to prepare the area for sowing. This is done two weeks earlier than the weather allows you to start preparing in the garden.

Often in greenhouses, crop rotation is not observed very carefully. They have been sown the same crops in their places for years. Therefore, it is necessary to carefully prepare the soil for sowing in a greenhouse.

1. Replace the top layer first. Remove about 15 cm of the old soil, take it out of the greenhouse (it can be used in open beds) and fill this place with freshly prepared soil.
2. For topping up, the soil is prepared from soddy soil, river sand, humus and peat in a ratio of 1: 1: 3: 5.
3. Next, the poured soil must be well moistened by choosing any method of watering. It is possible, if there is still snow outside the greenhouse, to throw it on the greenhouse beds. When melted, it will provide the necessary moisture.
4. The last step is loosening, marking the beds and arranging holes or furrows for sowing seeds.