How to drill correctly: drilling with a drill from “a” to “z”. How to drill a concrete wall correctly: technology

Many people live in houses with, and when it becomes necessary to make a hole in them, they encounter serious difficulties.

Do not despair and be upset if you did not immediately manage to hang a shelf, lamp or cabinet, read our recommendations and everything will work out.

There are several options with which you can drill yourself concrete wall.

Concrete structures are highly durable, so drilling them yourself is quite difficult.

This is due to the fact that in order to create concrete products crushed stone is used and when, during drilling, you fall on it, the process becomes very difficult.

The need to drill a concrete wall arises quite often, it is necessary for the installation of shelves, cabinets, air conditioning, fixing a lamp, at or during the fastening of lighthouses.

There are several ways to solve this problem:

• using a hammer drill or a powerful impact drill;
• conventional electric drill or screwdriver;
• diamond drilling.

To carry out this work, an ordinary drill is not suitable; it is necessary to purchase tools soldered with a pobedit alloy.

It should be remembered that for walls made of relatively soft materials, it is impossible to use victorious drills, since the holes will turn out to be uneven, and the wall will collapse. It is also impossible to work with metal with such a tool.

To create holes of large diameter or, diamond-coated ring drills are used. To use such a tool, it is necessary to use special installations; they allow you to make holes with a diameter of up to 250 mm.

Since the cost of such equipment is high, it is easier to hire specialists or you can rent it.

What is the best drilling

As already mentioned, there are several ways to drill a concrete wall, we will consider each of them in more detail.

perforator

When using a hammer drill or impact drill, they must be switched to impact mode, a working tool with a victorious tip is inserted and it must be directed perpendicular to the wall surface.

If drilling holes takes a long time, then drill needs to be moistened periodically so that it doesn't overheat.

Once you have drilled to the required depth, it is necessary to pull the working tool back without turning off the perforator. To clean the finished hole from dust, it is necessary to deepen and pull out the drill several times.

Standard drill or screwdriver

If you do not have the tools described above, then you can do this work with a conventional electric drill or a powerful screwdriver.

To perform drilling, you will need more time than using a hammer drill, but you can do everything yourself.

In this case, in addition to a drill and a drill, you will also need a punch. First, a small indentation is made at the drilling site with a punch and a hammer.

After that, insert a working tool into it and start drilling. If the drill has stopped, break the hard sections again with a punch and continue to work.

Although a conventional electric drill or screwdriver is not suitable for working with concrete, but if you do not have a hammer drill, then you can make several small holes with these tools, but you must use a lance-shaped drill with a carbide tip, it is usually used for tiles.

Diamond drilling

This is the most effective method, with which you can simply and quickly make a hole of the required diameter in a concrete wall.

To perform these works, you will need special equipment, consisting of the following elements:

1. electric motor;
2. a stand that is securely fixed to the base;
3. drill bit.

During operation, it is not necessary to cool the drill, as water is supplied to it, which not only cools the tool, but also prevents dust from forming.

If specialists work, then together with the specified equipment they use a vacuum cleaner, with which they remove dust and water.

Because the price of such equipment is very high then buy it for domestic use impractical. If necessary, make a hole of a large diameter, for this you can always invite specialists.

In order for you to be able to properly drill a concrete wall, you must have necessary equipment, perform all work carefully and adhere to the following recommendations:

• without a hammer drill, work can be done with an impact drill or drilled with a screwdriver;
• do not buy cheap drills, as their winning tip disappears very quickly and they fail;
• instead of a punch, you can use a victorious tool, with one you will break rubble, and with the second, inserted into a conventional electric drill, drill;
• to work with concrete, the perforator must have an SDS-plus cartridge;
• consider the placement of the reinforcement to determine where it is, you can use a metal detector if the reinforcement is exposed, it is necessary to prevent rust;
• to work with concrete, you can use universal diamond-coated drills, but you need to insert them only into a regular drill, or you need to turn off the impact mode.

Output

During the performance of these works, it is necessary to adhere to the developed technologies and safety rules, then you can not only make a hole yourself without involving expensive specialists, but also avoid injuries.

Useful video:

How to drill concrete and brick with a screwdriver, video:

In contact with

In modern buildings, as a rule, the walls and ceilings are concrete. Sooner or later, it may be necessary, for example, to hang a lamp shelf or sheathe the walls with drywall during repairs, then the problem arises of how to drill a concrete wall with a drill.

Difficulty in drilling can arise due to a number of reasons. First, the structure concrete panels is heterogeneous and includes iron fittings, cement-sand mortars and crushed stone, which leads to difficulty drilling. Secondly, concrete has high strength and is very difficult to process.

Read also:

Overview .

ABOUT sharpening circular saws.

How are concrete walls drilled?

Before starting work, it is important to decide which drilling device is best to do the job. The choice, of course, is small, since there are two types of wall drilling:

• drill;
• perforator.

A perforator will do a better job of this job, since its function is to punch through concrete or stone surfaces. Using this tool, you can make large holes, but even the highest quality hammer drill not capable of more than 12 cm.

But when you need to drill foam concrete walls, it is the drill that will be optimal, since the puncher will simply crumble the surface.

When working with concrete walls, it is absolutely impossible to use a hammerless drill, because it will be pointless, and besides, you can ruin the tool.

When there are only a few holes to be made and there is no puncher, you should not buy it because of this, you can get by with a drill. If you have a lot of work to do, then buying a puncher is inevitable.

In the case when it is still necessary to work with a drill, it is important not to forget that you need to use a concrete drill bit with a carbide-coated tip.

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Diamond drills and other accessories

On store shelves, you can sometimes find a model of ring drills with a diamond tip. Such products are intended for drilling huge holes with a cross section of up to 25 cm. It is important to consider that such devices are expensive, and therefore they should not be purchased for home use.

If it becomes necessary to make a hole for a socket or switch, you can use crowns designed for drilling concrete. The cutting part around the circumference has universal soldering of hard alloy metals.

Such elements have a cross section from 35 to 120 mm, but products with a cross section of 68 mm are in great demand, since sockets and switches have it. If you are drilling with a crown, then it is important not to forget to turn off the hammer blow function. With this device, holes are drilled, the depth of which is a maximum of 15 cm. If a greater depth is required, it is recommended to use an extension nozzle.

Similar crowns are also sold for electric drills. They differ from the previous ones in that instead of soldering, they are equipped with a tungsten carbide alloy coating. The advantages of such a device are that if concrete walls are lined with tiles, then it makes no sense to replace the nozzle, since it is good, and concrete surfaces. But we must not forget that such devices can be used for drills with a power above 1000 watts.

Most often, drills are used to work with a perforator, the cross section of which has limits from 4 to 80 mm. Many are faced with the problem of choosing the correct diameter of the drill. But the most reasonable thing when buying a perforating device is to purchase a set of drills for concrete. But a high-quality kit also costs a lot of money, in connection with this, it is necessary to select the same section as that of the dowel intended for this model.

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Everyone knows that a concrete wall and all similar structures have strong qualities and are hard to drill, since most often during work you can stumble upon crushed stone included in concrete composition from which wall and ceiling structures are made. Holes in concrete slabs during construction are made quite often:

• during finishing work;
• when installing built-in furniture;
• when installing air conditioners;
• when installing electrical wiring;
• when installing plumbing fixtures.

During minor household repairs, you can get by with a simple electric drill that is not equipped with an impact function.

To do this, in the process of introducing a pobedit drill into a concrete surface, it is periodically necessary to crush the concrete with a metal punch, which must correspond to the cross section of the hole. It is used when, when drilling, an electric drill begins to get stuck in concrete. Then the punch is placed in the hole and beaten on it, using a hammer or sledgehammer, which helps to crush the compacted places and penetrate deeper. But at the same time, the punch needs to be slightly turned, and then you can again start working with a non-impact drill.

These manipulations should be continued until the holes reach the desired depth. This method is very long, but suitable for several holes.

Of course, you can also use universal diamond-tipped drills. They will perfectly cope with metal, crushed stone, and also with concrete structures. But it is important to consider that they are only suitable for an ordinary drill or a device with the vibration mode turned off. When using diamond drills in work, it should be remembered that they require cooling during operation.

But good effect drilling can be achieved using a perforator drill. Its advantages in combining functions rotary motion with reciprocating motion. When drilling with such a drill, the tip of the drill is able to break the concrete composition, and the drilling process will be the least laborious.

The ability to drill holes in concrete is quite a useful and handy skill. With it, you can easily hang shelves, hang pictures, install lamps and much more around the house in a fast and safe way. The process of drilling concrete is quite simple, but with the right choice tools and understanding of the principles of work, you will save yourself a huge amount of time.

Steps

Part 1

Preparation for work

Buy or rent an impact drill. Drilling holes in concrete is easier with an impact drill or hammer drill (in the case of large jobs). These tools will crush concrete with reciprocating blows of the drill and extract the resulting crumb by rotating it. Doing such work with a conventional drill will be slow and difficult, as concrete does not drill as easily as wood or metal. For any job that will take more than drilling a few holes into decorative (rather than structural) concrete surfaces, such as today's softer stone chip kitchen countertops, don't be stingy with paying a little more money to rent a percussion tool.

Learn the tool. Read the owner's manual and remember the function of all buttons and switches on the instrument. You should be familiar with how to handle the tool before moving on to the next step.

• Observe security measures. This includes wearing goggles to keep concrete chips out of your eyes, earplugs to protect your hearing, and thick work gloves to protect your hands from friction and hot drills. For long-term work that generates a lot of dust, it is also recommended to wear a respirator.

1. Insert a high quality concrete drill into the tool. Carbide tipped concrete drills (or “hammer drills” as it may be labeled on the packaging) are specially designed for impact drills and are designed to withstand the stress of impact drilling in tough concrete. The length of the working part of the fluted drill should be no less than the depth of the hole you are going to drill, as these flutes are important for extracting the resulting dust from the hole.

   Set the drilling depth. Some drills have the ability to adjust the drilling depth or a special limiter. Read the user manual for the tool to learn how to use it. If your instrument is not equipped with a drilling depth gauge, measure and mark with a pencil or masking tape required hole depth on the drill itself. If you are not sure how deep your holes are, follow the guidelines below.

   Handle the drill correctly. Hold the drill with one hand like a gun with your index finger on the start button. If the drill is equipped with an auxiliary handle, grab it with your other hand and use it for a more secure grip on the tool. Otherwise, just grab the drill from below with your second hand closer to the back of the case.

   Part 2

   Drilling in concrete

   1. Mark the point for drilling the hole. Use a soft pencil to mark the wall with a dot or a cross where you want to drill the hole.

      Drill a basting hole. Attach the drill to the mark with a drill and briefly run it at a slow speed (if it is adjustable on your device) or make a few short presses on the start button (if there is no speed control). You should end up with a 3-6mm indentation that will help you guide the drill properly when drilling the main hole.

      Continue drilling, but with more effort. Switch to impact mode (if your drill has one). Attach the drill to the basting hole strictly perpendicular to the concrete surface. Start drilling again with firm but not excessive pressure on the drill so that the drill sinks into the concrete. Gradually increase the speed and pressure of the drill if necessary, but remember that the drill must remain under your complete control and in a stable position at all times. Concrete is quite heterogeneous and the drill can easily slip if it hits an air pocket or void.

Drilling is one of the most frequently performed operations by a home master. And any master faced problems when drilling, especially if the work is thin. And fine work is most often found: the drill took half a millimeter - the furniture door is skewed or a simple towel hook in the bathroom stood obliquely, and it is impossible to re-drill: the tile has just been laid. Elegance and "oakness" are incompatible, so you need to know how to drill with a drill correctly.

Security

In terms of electrical safety, a commercially available power tool belongs to class II: double working insulation, it is permissible to use it without additional grounding, i.e. such a drill can be plugged into a regular, non-euro socket through an adapter. At the "iron bazaars" you can find a class I tool ("industrial"), with a ground terminal on a metal case. It is dangerous to use it in everyday life, and its cartridge is most often used for a drill with a tapered shank (Morse taper), unsuitable for rotary percussion drilling. Therefore, do not take such a drill, even if it is powerful and inexpensive.

Class I is indicated on the nameplate of the drill, and if there is no designation, the case is partially or completely plastic, and the cord with the euro plug is a class II tool. Class III - a power tool for an operating voltage of up to 42 V (low voltage) can be recognized by the class designation on the nameplate and by a special plug with flat cross-shaped contacts. For the home, it is suitable, but inconvenient: you need a powerful step-down transformer.

For protection against ingress of foreign objects and moisture, power tools and equipment are marked with the letters IP (Ingress Protection) with two numbers after them: the first - from foreign objects, the second - from moisture. If the protection for any position is zero, the letter X is put instead of the corresponding number. So, IP32 drill - can be used outdoors in good weather; IPX2 - only inside, IP34 - outside in fog and drizzle, and IP68 can work during Samoom in the Sahara and under water.

Important: the first number 2 means that the device is finger-proof; for example, a household socket has a degree of protection IP22. But this in no way means that if a drill chuck with the same degree of protection is grabbed by hand during operation, then it will stop by itself. The IP standard does not guarantee foolproofing.

Cartridge

A conventional three-jaw chuck is accurate and good at rotary drilling. With a rotary percussion drill, it quickly loosens up in it, and the cartridge itself loses accuracy and can completely fail: the threaded clip of the cam mechanism bursts. For work on hard brittle materials, a three-jaw chuck is suitable for occasional use or with a diamond working body in rotation only mode.

In a keyless chuck (it can be recognized by a corrugated plastic holder), the drill is clamped by a collet. Such a chuck holds the drill better during rotary impact drilling, but is less accurate for fine work of little use. Powerful drills are supplied with a two-sleeve collet chuck - clamping and loosening are done by different rings.

The SDS cartridge (Steck-Dreh-Sitzt, German “inserted-turned-sits” or Special Direct System, a special direct system, English) was invented by Bosh. SDS is ideal for construction work: the system of curly grooves, see Fig., absolutely securely fixes the working body according to the principle of a Chinese puzzle; changing the drill is done with just two easy movements.

Unfortunately, SDS is not suitable for metalwork and carpentry: the accuracy of centering the drill is insufficient. The adapter from a three-jaw chuck to SDS does not make sense: it will become loose from vibration, like a conventional drill. Therefore, the SDS drill is incompatible with the usual fit of the working body.

Note: There are three types of SDS fit: SDS+, SDS Top and SDS Max. SDS Top is rarely used, as an intermediate and generally unsuccessful option; SDS+ is designed for one-handed tools up to 5 kg; SDS Max - for heavy two-handed.

Power and RPM

Buying a rotary impact drill for general works, no need to save on power. The power reserve is needed to create the necessary torque at low speeds. External characteristic collector electric motor with series excitation, used in drills, is close to ideal, but a low-power motor overheats at low speeds from high current. It is also advisable to purchase, if not included, a front captive handle.

The maximum speed of the drill is also important. The diamond tool is literally "eaten up" before our eyes at a rotational speed of less than 1600-1700 rpm; its normal operating speed is from 2500 rpm. Carbide tools need at least 1500 rpm. If you meet a drill at 600-1200 rpm, this is a special tool that is unsuitable for general-purpose work.

For fine work for metal, a simple, only with rotation, low power drill - 120-200 watts is best suited. It will be very useful to have a bed that turns the drill into a desktop drilling machine. And if you also fork out for a turntable to the bed, then a dental bur can mill small parts.

Network or battery?

A cordless drill is needed for a home master in two cases:

• If you work on the side - your more or less regular earnings.
• If you have a non-electrified cottage or garage.

In any case, an expensive professional drill with a lithium battery and a charge time of 10-20 minutes is unlikely to pay for itself. This is an option for professionals working full-time day-to-day. And you normal fit alkaline battery, rechargeable in 4-8 hours. In extreme cases, it can be “pumped up” on a hole or two in half an hour.

Section Summary

All of the above can be summarized in the following recommendations:

• Regular construction works, including metal structures - you need a hammer drill and an impact drill of 350 W and above.
• Periodic homework - rotary impact drill from 250 watts.
• For precise drilling - an additional precision drill for rotary drilling at 120-150 W; preferably - with a bed.

Drill

Drills for drills are most commonly used of the following types:

• Spiral - come in tool steel, coated with hard alloy, with a hard alloy insert and solid carbide. Used for all types of work on any materials.
• Fountain drills can drill wood, MDF and plastic. Allows you to drill large holes. They are made either in one piece or as a set of a shank with a groove and several inserts different diameter. Such a set is cheaper than a set of solid nibs, but less accurate.
• Crown (crowns) are used for excavating holes in hard brittle materials - stone, concrete and drilling wide holes in chipboard and fiberboard. Available with and without centering twist drill. The latter are cheaper, but only suitable for stone and require strong working skills.
• A circular drill (central drill, ballerina) drills holes of large diameter in thin, strong, but brittle materials with a decorative front surface, such as tiles or polished decorative rock. The drilling diameter of the circular drill can be continuously changed. Rotary impact drilling with a circular drill is unacceptable.
• Diamond drills are thin-walled tubes made of a special alloy with diamond coating. They can drill glass, polished decorative stone, glazed ceramic tiles. Roads require careful handling and precise adherence to drilling technology.

Drill sharpening

Drill sharpening

Self-sharpening of drills is acceptable for twist drills and feather drills. The first ones are sharpened with a diamond file - they are made of tool steel. Cheap kits can be made from regular carbon steel; their feathers can be edited with an ordinary needle file.

Twist drills are sharpened with an emery wheel (carbide - diamond) using a wedge tool with an angle equal to 180 degrees minus half the sharpening angle. So, with a sharpening angle of 120 degrees, the wedge angle is needed at 30 degrees. In the hypotenuse (oblique side) of the wedge, a longitudinal hollow or a blind hole is made, in which the drill is smoothly rotated during sharpening. The best sharpening is obtained with a fine ("velvet") hand emery wheel, see fig. below.

For different materials different angles of sharpening the drill are needed. Metal is most often drilled with drills with a sharpening angle of 116 degrees, concrete and stone - 90 degrees, wood - 60-90 degrees. Accurate angles and methods of sharpening drills different type for different materials can be found in the material processing reference manuals.

About Carbide

Hard alloys for drills are made on the basis of compounds of boron, tungsten or zirconium. The cheapest ones are based on boron, but such a drill will take concrete with great difficulty and will quickly wear out. Such drills are marked "by stone". Drill them decorative materials it is impossible - the edges of the hole will be chipped. Tungsten and zirconium compounds differ primarily in durability: zirconium compounds last longer. They are correspondingly more expensive.

What and how to drill

For any drilling, the locations of the holes must be marked. For metal, this is done with a punch, and for glass, ceramics and stone, either with a special diamond punch, or with a half of a victorious roller from an old glass cutter, sandwiched in a homemade clip. Punching (more precisely, scratching with rotation) hole marks in brittle hard materials must be done manually. Now let's move on to drilling technology.

Steel, brass, bronze, solid alloy

Drilling of metal of normal viscosity is carried out at medium drill speeds, 400-1000 rpm, depending on the hole diameter: 400 revolutions - with a maximum drill diameter of 13 mm for a conventional drill; 1000 - with a diameter of 3 mm. For smaller diameters, the speed is again reduced to the same 400 rpm for 1 mm.

Turnovers mean the maximum, at idle. In the process of drilling, the regulator itself will reduce them according to the tool feed, i.e. according to how hard you lean on it. The selection of feed for manual drilling on weight requires a certain skill: if the feed is too low, the crumb will go, the hole will turn out with uneven walls. And from the same crumbs, the drill will overheat and quickly become dull.

With excessive feed, the so-called drain chips will go - thick, curling in a spiral. The result is the same. In order for the feeding skill to be developed faster, even small holes need to be drilled with two hands, with a cap handle. The chips should be thin and brittle. For steels 42 and 44 (ordinary structural steels), chips with a bluish tint are acceptable.

Bronze and some varieties of duralumin require special attention: they do not give drain chips at all, and duralumin sharply loses strength when heated above 160 degrees. It is permissible to follow bronze by tint: its appearance is undesirable. Dural, on the other hand, must be cooled with liquid engine oil: if it boils, you need to press lighter.

You can set the idle speed by clicking the knob. If the drill is at 2800 rpm and the adjuster is 14 clicks edge to edge, then 1 click is 200 rpm. The adjusting characteristic of the regulator is not always linear, so you need to carefully monitor the drilling process and then give the necessary correction: know at what clicks of this particular tool you need to drill this material.

Note: when drilling steel and brass, lubrication is not needed, it will only prevent the correct chips from forming.

Sheet metal

For the same materials, but sheet, so that drilling does not lead to sheet deflection, two methods can be recommended:

• When drilling from the bed, give more speed, up to 1500-2000, and quickly “pierce” the sheet, which should lie on a wooden pillow. To prevent the sheet from turning and injuring you, it must be fixed with nails driven into the pillow at its edges, or pressed to the table with a clamp; better - two.
• When drilling on the fly, as soon as an increased resistance to the feed is felt (this means that the drill is about to come out), you need to drill the hole on the other side, flushing the “pimples” with a punch inside.

But a radical way to get a wide hole in a thin sheet of metal with an ordinary drill is to first drill a hole with a diameter equal to the thickness of the sheet, then expand it in one or three steps to the diameter of the required hole minus twice the thickness of the metal, and drill it clean. Each subsequent hole should be wider than the previous one by twice the thickness of the metal. The maximum allowable diameter is 5-6 metal thicknesses. That is, in a 2 mm sheet, you can drill a hole with a diameter of 13 mm, and it will be round, and not like a triangle with very smooth corners.

Aluminum is a soft metal, very ductile and fusible: its melting point is only 660 degrees. Because of this, when drilling, it can melt on the cutting edge, blur the hole, swell its edges and bite the drill. Therefore, when drilling aluminum, it is necessary to give one and a half times less revolutions than for other metals, cool the drill with liquid engine oil, emulsion or water, and feed the tool a little, without leaning.

The drill for aluminum must be sharp, factory-ground or sharpened on a special machine. Drills resharpened by hand are not suitable for aluminum.

Stainless steel

Stainless steel is drilled in the same way as structural steel, but with a solid carbide drill ground to metal. Such drills are very fragile, so you need to feed the tool easily and without the slightest distortion. It is best to drill with a low-power precision drill in the frame.

Wood, MDF and plastic

Commercial wood is drilled with a twist drill sharpened under a tree or a feather drill. Dense breeds (oak, beech, walnut) can be drilled with a hole saw with a center drill. Drill revolutions - 400-600 for a twist drill and 200-500 for nibs and crowns.

drilling plastic windows, MDF, plastic tiles and polished wood is produced either with a special drill for wood (with shaped sharpening and a centering threaded cone), or with solid blade drills. In the latter case, a centering hole of 3-5 mm is pre-drilled; it can be drilled with a conventional drill. Turnovers are the same as for commercial wood; feed - easy, without pressure.

Concrete and reinforced concrete

Drilling of concrete is carried out with special drills for concrete with a super-hard solder or insert, in a percussion-rotary way at medium or 2/3 of the maximum speed of the drill. Best Option- SDS drill. If reinforced concrete is drilled, then the drill hitting the reinforcement most often leads to its damage: the hard tip is chipped off. Therefore, before drilling reinforced concrete, it is highly desirable to determine the location of the reinforcement with a reinforcement detector; This device works on the principle of a metal detector.

Drilling holes in the walls for socket boxes is carried out with a stone crown (for brick walls) or concrete, with the same precautions for reinforced concrete. If the hole is drilled with a crown without a centering drill, then it is tightly, without skew, applied to the wall, pressed, and the drill is turned on sharply, with quick pressure.

There is a special tool and technology for through wall drilling, but this is the subject of a special description.

Ceramics and stone

How to drill tiles is, without exaggeration, a whole science. The material is decorative, chipping of the edges of the hole is unacceptable. Drill already laid tiles, so that cracking is also unacceptable. On a smooth surface, the drill can easily slip off, which again is unacceptable. Drilling - only rotation.

Drilling ceramic tiles is done as follows:

• A hole with a diameter greater than the thickness of the centering drill web is punched manually with a diamond or carbide center punch; its diameter is 2.5-3 mm. When drilling a large diameter hole, the diameter of the centering drill should be equal to the diameter of the centering rod of the circular drill.
• A centering hole is drilled with a concrete drill. When drilling holes for dowels up to 6 mm, you can immediately drill clean.
• With a finishing drill for concrete, the hole is drilled completely.

Porcelain stoneware is drilled in the same way as ceramic tile. Drill speed - maximum, except for drilling with a circular drill; feed is light, minimal. It is desirable to provide continuous cooling working area water. It is impossible to cool the tile with oil - when heated, it can spoil the decorative surface.

Drilling ceramics with a circular drill requires special care and firm hands: misalignment is not allowed, and the drill is not balanced. Even experienced workers need to drill with a drill with two hands, throwing the front handle on the drill. Turnovers - higher, but not more than 900, because. at large, an unbalanced drill will break the hole and cut off its edges.

Video: how to drill tiles

Solid stone and glass

Glass, granite and other brecciated (granular) hard stone with quartz inclusions should be drilled with a diamond drill. This is a job for an ace and a drilling virtuoso. A low-power precision drill is set to maximum speed, they are tried on, having aligned horizontally and vertically by eye, they are turned on immediately “to the fullest” and slowly, smoothly the drill is inserted into the material. Pressing and tilting are not allowed.

If the piece to be processed can be laid on the table, then glass and stone can be drilled from the bed in the ancient Egyptian way: with a copper tube with quartz (not sea shell) sand:

• A roller 1-1.5 cm high is made around the drilling site from plasticine or putty.
• In the formed hole pour fine quartz sand and moisten it to a liquid slurry.
• A flat thin-walled copper tube is loaded into the drill chuck.
• The drill is set to the MINIMUM speed.
• They drill with a series of short light pecks at the weakest pressure. Sand eats into copper, and the points of its grains, which have the greatest strength, gnaw at the material.

Note: the exact diameter will not work, but you will get a dull spot around the hole.

Video: examples of glass drilling at home

Holes in pipes

If a piece of pipe can be laid in the center or clamped in a vise, then it is better to drill with an accurate drill from the bed. If you have to drill on weight, then after punching, the mark must be expanded to a diameter exceeding the thickness of the drill jumper. For metal, this can be done with a carbide drill, rotating it with your fingers with light pressure; on PVC - with the tip of a penknife.

Then the tip of the main drill is inserted into the hole with the drill turned off, the tool is leveled and tried on, as when drilling tiles, lightly pressed and the drill is turned on, gradually increasing the speed. If the hole diameter is more than 1/5 of the pipe diameter, then a centering hole with a diameter of 2-4 mm is drilled first. In general, with some skill, drilling holes in pipes is not a difficult job. You just need to be careful: when drilling on weight, the drill, splashing, can damage the wall or furniture.

square holes

Can you drill square holes? Yes, you can, if you use a drill in the form of the so-called Renault triangle - the simplest figure, as mathematicians say, of constant width. Renault drills come with a fixing frame; it is attached to the drill with a barbell and a clamp. The corners of the hole will be rounded, but the imperceptible area of ​​the hole will be only 2%.

However, a drill can drill square holes only in wood, plywood and not very durable plastic: such drilling requires a lot of power, and there are huge lateral forces on the tool. Square holes in metal are drilled on special machines, but ceramics and stone cannot be drilled like this at all: lateral forces will blow the part into pieces.

Outcome

Somehow piercing a clumsy hole with a drill is a simple matter. But drilling an even, round and neat hole is a job for a real master, who is knowledgeable, intelligent and with skillful hands.

Each of us has repeatedly faced with the need to mount various objects on the walls that bring variety to the interior, create coziness, or simply remind of the pleasant moments of life. Most often, you have to mount lamps and sconces, paintings and photographs, mirrors and shelves on a concrete surface, install an air conditioner, or a TV. If in the case of a small painting or photograph you can get by with driving a nail into the wall, then when the question is about more massive and heavy objects, the question of drilling holes arises. In order to avoid misunderstandings when working with concrete, for example, drill breakage, blunting it, it is worthwhile to correctly prepare the partition, choose quality tool and choose the right drill.

Choosing a tool and working with it

When choosing a tool to drill a hole, you should understand that your work depends on it. A good drill will accurately drill into a concrete wall or other desired material, simplifies the drilling process, while a bad one will require a lot of time, may not cope with the task, or complicate it. What you need to pay attention to when choosing a drill:

• Is it possible to change the drilling speed? - this point is important, because the correction of the speed mode will ensure accurate operation of the drill, helping it not to damage the surface.
• Is it possible to hammer drill and adjust the depth? – impact drilling can be applied to problem areas, softening them.
• Is it possible to hold the drill with both hands? - a drill is not an easy tool and therefore models that are equipped with handles should be preferred.
• Is the power of the tool sufficient for your work?

Having decided on a drill, before starting work, you need to get the hang of holding it. To do this, take the drill in one hand, like a pistol, place the other hand on the handle of the tool (if it is not intended by the design, the hand is placed near the cartridge). It is necessary to hold the drill in your hands strictly horizontally so that the hole does not turn out with distortions and at the wrong angle. Before turning on the drill, wait until it reaches temperature environment. Sudden temperature changes can cause condensation to form. If you decide to take a break during work, unplug the tool from the mains.

Surface preparation

It must be remembered that the wall is looser than the following layers.

Before you start drilling, you need to make sure that there are no wiring, pipes, electrical cables in the selected floor area. A metal detector will help to cope with this task, as it reacts to non-ferrous metals, iron and steel.

By ignoring this condition, you can stumble upon rebar, damage the drill, or cables / pipes that were hidden in the ceiling. If this section satisfies all of the above requirements, then a point is marked on the wall, and after that a small depression is made in it at a slow speed using a drill. It is also worth remembering that the surface of the concrete wall is looser than subsequent layers.

Drill selection

This point can rightfully be considered the main one, since the quality of work and the safety of the drill itself, as well as the accuracy of work, depend on a properly selected drill. Today, there are a huge variety of drills on the market: for working on wood, metal, concrete. The latter are distinguished by a triangular tip. For a concrete surface, it is best to use a carbide drill, for example, Pobedit. This type of drill grinds the material without tearing it, which is ideal for concrete floors.

If in the process of drilling the wall the drill does not go forward, colliding with a dense area, it is recommended to use a punch. After inserting the punch into the hole, hit it with a hammer until it starts to move forward and softens the problem area. After that, you can continue drilling.

It should be noted that without a punch, a perforator can easily cope with such difficulties, however, they make holes that exceed 13 mm in diameter. If you want to use universal drills when drilling, you need to remember that they require cooling, vibration is turned off and are only suitable for a conventional drill.

A little about the device of the drill and the installation of the drill

Drilling pattern for a concrete wall.

A classic drill consists of a power cable, a button, a capacitor wire, a reverser, brushes and springs, an armature, a stator, a gearbox and a chuck, bearings, a key and fastening screws. A correctly inserted drill improves the quality of drilling, and is able to secure it.

The first thing to check when starting work with a drill is that there are no contaminants on the drill itself. A rag will be a great helper in cleaning drills. If the drill is loose, then there is a risk that it will fly out and injure the master. Accordingly, it is necessary to immerse the drill as much as possible in the cartridge (up to the stop!).

In no case do not try to "lengthen" the drill by partially immersing it in the chuck!

It is important to ensure that the drill in the tool is fixed strictly along the axis. In case of non-compliance with this rule, drilling in concrete will be performed poorly, the shape of the hole may be unpredictable, and the elementary effect of the beat of the drill will become the cause of all these misunderstandings.