It's time ... It's time to start visiting all sorts of different shops and shops selling roots, bulbs, fertilizers, secateurs! Although, what am I talking about? Probably, already half of the usable area of ​​​​the balcony is bought for future use and waiting to be sent to the dacha.

And what is there in this dense pile: film, agrospan, mulch, coconut briquettes, props ... Yes, you never know what turned up useful for the long winter months, you can’t remember everything. And how many more different little pounds and bags are hiding in the secluded corners of the apartment, in bookshelves, in the far corners of cabinets.

This is a necessary measure, because I'm tired of catching the mocking glances of relatives, or listening to advice that it would be better to buy something more practical, aesthetic and pretty.

And now the most pleasant moment has come - you can start buying future inhabitants of your gardens. Everyone has different tastes, to predict what you want to buy is a very small probability, but you can still think about how to save what you bought before landing in the ground.

And this is our main task, however, only the third, because the first task is to choose the best, and the second is to stop in time in the “grab-buying” process.

Sometimes insomnia overcomes me, if by the night I suddenly remember inopportunely how much I managed to buy and how many seats I have ready.

So, lily bulbs. Having chosen the largest, cleanest and strongest lily bulbs, even if for this you have to turn over the whole box if they are in a package or torture the seller if they are in bulk, we bring the prey home. On the way, we convulsively recall whether we have Maxim or brilliant green, sphagnum, coconut flakes, simple newspapers and bags.

By the way, about bags. You can collect bags from under apples, recently perforated bags often come across, they are clean, only a sticker with a weight, but you can also use it - write something you need.

First of all, we once again inspect the lily bulbs. Then there are several options:

You can immediately pickle the bulbs in Maxim, dry them, wrap them in sphagnum, a newspaper (be sure to sign !!!) and put everything in a perforated bag and in the refrigerator, in the vegetable box, and so that the temperature is from 0 to +3 C.

You can check the onions, anoint doubtful places with brilliant green, wrap in a newspaper, in a bag, in the refrigerator. Then you can hold it in "Maxim" already before landing in the ground, and if the lily bulbs are wilted, then also in "Epin".

But these are already worries about landing, and we are talking about conservation. In both options 1 and 2, the newspaper needs to be slightly sprinkled with water.

Once a week or less, this is how patience is enough, the bulbs must be checked.

In this way, packed lilies can lie for a long time, which is good. Who else can endure “preliminary confinement” in a refrigerator chamber without harm?!

The most persistent hostas and daylilies. They can safely lie in the refrigerator for a long time, even if sprouts have appeared. It is necessary to plant them in the ground if the leaves of the host are trying to turn around, and daylilies when the sprout reaches a length of 15 cm or more.

After landing, put on a bright but cool window, or on glazed balcony, to cover at night (some with bottles, some with milk bags, some just twisting pounds from newspapers) and on top of what is - lutrasil, a thin old sheet.

But, of course, placing pots on the balcony largely depends on the temperature outside the window. Be sure to put the pots on something, and not just on a cold stone floor. Of course, what began to grow on the balcony, in open ground can only get there when the leaves of the country plantations are the same as those of the home ones. You can't plant before!

If the purchased roots are in the supplier's packaging - in a bag, with perforation, with peat or sphagnum, then these bags should also be periodically removed and checked: if the peat is very dry, then you can lightly spray the peat with a syringe, shaking the bag slightly, evenly distribute and lay again in the refrigerator, in the vegetable drawer.

bearded irises overexposed in the refrigerator is also good, but they should be kept dry rather than wet.

Tradescantia unpretentious and grows well on the windowsill. If it stretches out very much, you need to cut it off and put the shoots in water - it takes root perfectly.

The most capricious when overexposure - Siberian and Japanese irises, phloxes, hellebores, poppies, speedwells, mekonopsis, anemones. Just look, they will rot, and there are usually few roots, and they are thin.

They can be washed in a solution of "Maxim" (in fact, this is not harmful to everyone), immediately planted in pots with light soil and barely watered, be sure to dry the soil between waterings, just so that they do not dry out. For many of them, if planted and left warm, only the leaves will grow, and the root will sleep. The leaves eat up all the stocks, and everything is thrown away money, the plant died. So, be sure to choose a place that is cold + 10-15 and below, make sure that mold does not appear.

And in general, if there is a balcony or loggia, where the temperature is about +10, then you can buy almost everything. And, if it starts to germinate strongly and quickly, plant it on the balcony.

If the rastyushki-roots lay in the refrigerator until warm and remained dormant, then in late April - early May, everything can be planted in the ground.

Of course, it is better to start with something that is easy and simple to store, but if you really want to, then you can buy and go out a lot.

One more moment. Surely on March 8 someone will be brought flowers as a gift, but not simple ones, but, knowing your passion for gardening, in a pot: miniature rose, primrose or gerbera. And this is even wonderful, because they, too, can then be planted in the garden!

What are your actions in this case? We thank the donor, digress from all affairs and deal with the gift. We get the earth, drainage, breed "Epin". We quickly equip workplace on the kitchen table - a newspaper, scissors, a pot.

Gently and carefully (a gift after all!) We shake out our flower from a purchased pot, shake off ALL the earth from the roots, cut the roots, soak them in Epin.

It is necessary to try to wash off all those remnants of peat on the roots that could not be shaken off. Otherwise, poor flowers are planted in bare peat with phyto-additives of such concentration and power that the plant does not have enough strength to live for a long time. After all, the main task of sellers is to expel them by the deadline and sell them in bloom, but no one thinks about the long-term preservation of the life of a flower.

By the way, if you plant a rose in the ground, then don’t expect to get a miniature - this is a lottery, but it’s so exciting!

While the roots are in Epin, we are preparing a drainage pot, earth. We plant in our own pot, with fresh soil, and in the summer it will be possible to plant our flower in the garden. Miniature roses, petunias, primroses can be planted in this way in open ground. Gerberas are purely domestic flowers. They should be left on the windowsill.

Daylily is native to East Asia. This plant has been known to mankind since ancient times, but for the first time science started talking about the daylily in 1753. The Swedish researcher Carl Linnaeus named the plant "Hemerokallis", combining two Greek words: "hemera" (day, day) and "callos" (beauty). This name meant that the beauty of the plant lives only one day.

Not only daylily cultivars are famous for their amazing beauty, but also the “savages” that grow in the wild. Daylily flowers are extremely unpretentious, so much so that even flower growers themselves call it a plant of a lazy gardener.

Thanks to the efforts of American and Australian breeders, the daylily in last years literally turned out to be at the “peak of fashion”. Despite the fact that the new plant species turned out to be more “capricious”, their incredible beauty compensates for the time and effort spent.

Did you know? The great popularity of the daylily among gardeners around the world has contributed to the breeding of hybrid varieties. This happened in the first half of the 20th century thanks to the efforts of the famous American botanist Earl Stout.

Daylilies are very demanding plants, their planting and care in the open field are of interest to both beginners and experienced gardeners.

The main advantage of the daylily is the time of its planting in the ground. It is very long and covers the period from early spring to late autumn. The choice of the most favorable time for planting a daylily directly depends on the climatic zone, and this fact should not be overlooked.

If your latitudes are distinguished by the early and rapid onset of winter, then the daylily, which was planted in the fall, may not have time to take root before the first frost and simply die. On average, this plant takes a month for reliable rooting. If you stop at garden forms with an early or medium flowering period, then even in the regions far from the south, the daylily planted by you will have time to fully prepare for the winter period.

Important! According to experienced gardeners, the most suitable time for planting a daylily in the middle lane is the last months of spring and summer - May and August.

Planting in autumn

How to plant a daylily in the autumn? Planting a daylily is no different from planting any other plant. To do this, you need to dig a hole 30 cm deep. Then carefully place the roots of the plant in it and bury it with earth to the root neck, after which be sure to water it.

At autumn planting do not forget to cover the daylily with straw or hill it with earth along with leaf humus. This will reliably protect the plant from cold weather and excessive moisture getting into the roots.

Planting in the spring

Daylilies can be planted at the very beginning of spring, the main thing is that the soil is warm enough and frost does not occur. Of course experienced gardeners know how to plant a daylily in spring, but what about newbies?

The first thing to start with is the preparation of the landing pit. Assume that the plant will stay in this place for at least 5 years, during which it will continuously grow and increase in size. The daylily should not be cramped at the place of its landing. If the soil in your area is saturated with useful substances, then the hole for the daylily should be of such a size that the roots of the plant can easily fit in it. If the soil is dry and heavy, then the pit should be 2 times larger, and leaf humus or compost mixed with sand should be laid on its bottom. You do not know how to save the daylily until planting in the spring? Just wrap the cutting in newspaper, put it in the refrigerator, and it will keep perfectly until planting.

After the hole is prepared, form a small pyramid of soil at its bottom. Place a daylily seedling on top of it, and gently spread the roots down the sides of this pyramid. Sprinkle the hole with earth, at the same time lightly crush it with your hands and be sure to water it with water. After planting, the root neck of the plant should be in the ground at a depth of no more than 2-2.5 cm, if you do not follow this rule, then the daylily will not bloom well. Also remember that the distance between planted daylilies should be at least one meter.

Selecting a landing site

Daylily is a plant that loves sunny and well-lit places. You can break up an entire flower bed or plant daylilies along the paths, thus creating a bright and colorful carpet of “gramophone flowers”. The peculiarity of the daylily is that the lighter the color of its petals, the more sunlight it can receive. All daylilies have a certain shade, and the leaves of a daylily planted in direct sunlight quickly acquire White color. Darker types of daylilies are best planted in light partial shade, because due to the bright sun, all the saturated colors of the petals will quickly fade and become less beautiful and attractive.

Lighting and temperature

As mentioned above, daylilies love lit places, but planting in direct sunlight should be avoided.

The growing season of the daylily begins quite early. This happens when the snow melts and the frost ends, when the temperature does not drop below 0°C at night. Usually the awakening of daylilies begins in mid-April. In autumn, night temperatures can drop to -3°C, which causes daylily leaves to wither. With early autumn frosts, the leaves of the flowers of the plant do not even have time to turn yellow and immediately wither. If the summer is cold, then the daylily blooms noticeably worse. The buds of the plant become small and do not open fully, or may not open at all, simply withering and falling off. High summer temperatures significantly shorten the flowering time of the daylily and burn the ends of its leaves.

What kind of soil does the daylily like?

The composition of the soil in which the daylily is grown does not play a big role for this crop. The plant is quite enough ordinary garden soil. If such soil is not too nutritious, then it can be easily fertilized with compost or various mineral compositions. As a rule, such compositions are sold in any flower or garden store. If the soil is too heavy and dense, then it can be slightly diluted with ordinary sand so that excessive moisture does not stagnate in it. The daylily can also grow in sand, but in this case it requires more frequent watering, since the water in such soil evaporates rather quickly.

How to plant a flower

Before you start planting a daylily, it must be lowered for a while into water with diluted growth stimulants. As such stimulants, drugs such as Zircon, Epin, Gumat, etc. are suitable.

Since the daylily is a perennial crop, the place for planting it should be selected and prepared with great care. This plant needs a fairly large amount of space in the flower bed. So, the hole for planting a daylily should be at least 30 cm deep. Also, it is necessary to first pour a peat-humus mixture into this hole, and then add a small amount of potassium-phosphorus fertilizer. After that, the daylily is carefully immersed in the hole. The plant should be planted to the level of its root collar. The entire remaining space of the hole should be sprinkled with garden soil, and then it must be compacted and watered thoroughly.

Important! If moisture is quickly absorbed, then this indicates that the soil was not compacted enough. In this case, simply add dry soil and compact the soil well.

How to water a daylily in a flower bed

Daylily is a plant that requires high-quality watering. With a lack of moisture, its flowering worsens significantly, and the buds become dull and small.

Particularly carefully watering rules should be observed during the growing season. The rate of moisture directly depends on the soil in which the daylily grows. In order for the daylily not to experience a moisture deficit, it is necessary to regularly monitor the soil around the stems - it should not dry out. For irrigation, it is preferable to use a large amount of water to moisten the soil to a depth of half a meter.

Daylilies need to be watered at least once a week. If the daylily grows in light sandy soil, then it should be watered more often, and it is also advisable to mulch the soil around the plant to slow down the evaporation of moisture.

Watering is best done in the evening, but before dark. It is not recommended to pour water directly on the buds and leaves of the plant, as this can stain them. Water the plant at the very root, using an ordinary garden watering can with a tip in the form of a wide nozzle - so the water jet will not wash the earth out from under the daylily root.

Top dressing and fertilizer daylily

Fertilizer and top dressing of the daylily is carried out after studying the composition of the soil, after which fertilizer is selected.

The main rule is that any fertilizers are applied no earlier than 2 weeks after the rooting of the plant. A young plant will need 2-3 top dressings per season, an older (5-6 years old) and abundantly flowering daylily needs 4-5 top dressings.

• At the beginning of spring, the daylily is fed with a full complex mineral fertilizers. The most common is NPK 16:16:16 (diluted in proportion: 1 tablespoon of granules per 10 liters of water).
• In April and May, in order to increase the intensity of growth, are added complex fertilizers containing a large amount of nitrogen (diammonium phosphate, ammophos, nitroammophosphate).
• In summer, when the daylily blooms, it can be fed with organic matter. For this, a solution of mullein, chicken manure or fermented grass is suitable.
• At the end of flowering (beginning of autumn), fertilizer is carried out with sulfate with ash, or nitroammophos - it depends on the climate. Such top dressing has a positive effect on increasing the size of the flowers and their number in the new season.

How to properly propagate a plant

Daylily is enough unpretentious plant, capable of growing without a transplant in one place for 12-15 years. But this is undesirable, because after a certain time the flowers will become noticeably smaller, and the bush will take on a somewhat neglected appearance. And an old, overgrown bush after its transplantation can get sick and die. To avoid such problems, it is worth starting division and transplanting once every 5-6 years. Daylily can be propagated using several basic methods, each of which has both advantages and disadvantages.

Did you know? The Germans jokingly say that the daylily is a flower of intelligent lazy people, that is, gardeners who prefer beautiful plants that do not require long work on their cultivation.

seed method

Reproduction of daylilies by seeds is a fairly common method among gardeners. Daylily seeds can quickly lose their germination capacity, which is why freshly harvested seeds are best planted in the autumn. The sowing process is very simple and does not require any special tools and skills. Take the seeds and sow them in the prepared soil (fertilized and dug up), deepening them to a depth of 2 cm. If, for some reason, you did not have time for the autumn sowing, then it can be transferred to the spring, stratification of seeds (imitation of natural conditions for their awakening).

Vegetative methods

As already mentioned, the best time for daylily propagation is spring. In autumn, they can also be transplanted, but daylily cuttings should be large.

Reproduction of daylilies by cuttings begins with the selection of a heavily overgrown bush, which is time to replant. Dig up a bush and, using a pruner or garden shears, cut off all the green mass and leave stumps about 15-20 cm high. Trimming the greens is necessary in order to restore the balance between the greens and damaged roots.

Now you can start dividing the bush. This can be done using a pitchfork, dividing the daylily bush into small cuttings. If you don't have a fork handy, you can try doing it by hand. Then dig a hole along the length of the cutting and pour a small handful of potassium sulphate into the bottom of the hole, as daylilies need slightly acidic soil. Place the cutting in the hole to the level of the root neck, carefully sprinkle with earth, tamp, and then water it.

A little trick to make the daylily bloom faster

Did you know that by planting hybrid daylilies, you can contribute to the rapid appearance of additional shoots in them, thus causing the bush to grow? As soon as the seedlings of the hybrid daylily reach a height of 5-6 cm, cut them about half. Such a simple manipulation will force the plant to give a bush with a large number of layering and multiply the number of peduncles.

Daylily - a real decoration garden plot. Give him a little attention, and he will delight you with his iridescent colors from early spring to late autumn!

They are popular with gardeners and landscape designers for two main properties - beauty and unpretentiousness. Among the thousands of species of daylilies, it is difficult to single out the most attractive ones, since they all differ in bright and expressive colors during the flowering period. It is always hard to believe that a beautiful delicate flower can be unpretentious, but in the matter of caring for daylilies, this is true. A plant can grow for ten years without a transplant, bloom in partial shade and be picky about the soil, but it still needs minimal care, for example, before wintering. Let us consider in detail the topic of how to prepare a daylily for winter.

Daylily belongs to the family of lily plants. This flower was brought to Europe from Asia and successfully took root in new territories. An interesting feature of the plant is one-day flowering. Each flower lives only one day, but due to the fact that there are a lot of buds on the stem, flowering lasts a long time. This characteristic property can be used, . If you plant different varieties from the earliest to the latest, then the picturesque flowering will continue all summer. In order for this beauty to continue from year to year, it is important to responsibly approach the wintering of the daylily.

Autumn preparation - pruning daylilies

The fact that daylilies are often called flowers for the lazy is also confirmed in the issue of autumn-winter care. This plant is very winter-hardy and usually does not require complex manipulations. It is necessary to determine when to prune daylilies for the winter by the plant itself and its “behavior” in this season. Flower shoots are removed immediately after flowering. If the autumn is rainy, then wet flowers after withering may still remain on the stems, in which case it is also advisable to cut them. But with the leaves you should not rush. Full pruning of daylilies for the winter is carried out in late autumn, since the leaves tend to remain green and alive even in October-November. When they do wither, it is necessary to cut off all the above-ground part of the plants and remove them from the site in order to reduce the number of pests, rodents and the likelihood of diseases in the next season.

Wintering daylilies

In general, wintering and winterization of daylilies different varieties different, the degree of care depends on the characteristics of the variety. Some evergreen or semi-evergreen rare ornamental daylilies may not endure a very frosty winter, so they need shelter for prevention, more adopted varieties easily endure winter without outside interference. It is also important to consider sheltering daylilies for the winter if they were planted in the fall of the current year, as this will help the plants adapt. Suitable shelters include sawdust, straw, dry grass, dry peat, or spruce branches. Before you cover the daylilies for the winter, you need to make sure that it is finally established cold weather, because if the air temperature rises again, daylilies can stop, which will affect their condition much worse than a later shelter. There is another way to overwinter daylilies, perhaps not too easy, but suitable for areas where temperatures reach -35 ° C during the cold season. The idea is that at the end of November, the daylily rhizome just needs to be dug up and moved to a cold shelter, but more gentle, and planted again in the spring in the flower bed.

That's all the simple tips on how to prepare daylilies for the winter. If they are not neglected, then in spring the flowers will again delight with shoots.

It has begun... It's still February on the calendar, and the first plants have already begun to arrive in stores selling planting material. First, timidly and timidly, gladioli, dahlias, buttercups, lilies and begonias. But the closer spring, the wider the river of supplies. And now hostas, daylilies, geraniums, tradescantia, astilbes, roses and much, much more. If you don't buy now, you might not buy at all. Unfortunately, this is true. Some varieties come in limited quantities, some simply do not wait for us and quietly die from heat, humidity or any other reasons.

So we bought a plant. And the spine started to grow, and in the yard - a deep minus. And planting in a pot will not correct the situation - the plant sprouts, the first leaves ... even buds - and dies.

And this is what happened - growth began due to the reserves accumulated in the tissues, and the roots did not “turn on” - a “forcing effect” turned out, something like the regrowth of shoots of cut roses in a vase.

Be careful when purchasing anemones, geyhera, geleniums, Siberian and Japanese irises, bathing suits, poppies, monards, hellebore, phlox, echinacea long before planting - it is much more difficult to keep them alive.
For the planting material of these plants, cold storage (at a temperature not higher than +5 °C) and the so-called "cold start" are especially important: planting in the ground at the very early dates preferably under cover.

Phlox and echinacea, according to experience, it is better to buy in general in summer or autumn, with a closed root system (in pots). The same applies to lumbago - this plant does not tolerate transplantation, and storage in the form of open roots is completely contraindicated for it.

Anemones should not be bought in the spring at all. And if you already managed to - a cold start is vital for them! Plant the plants in a container in a slightly damp substrate, and bring it into the garden - warm the earth with boiling water, drop the container and fill it with sawdust and thoroughly with snow.

A cold start is also required for delphinium and aconite.

What can you buy without fear?

Although the summer season is still far away, feel free to buy hosta rhizomes, daylilies, astilba, bergenia, stonecrop (sedum), lily bulbs. These plants will tolerate home "overexposure" well. Even if you don’t have room in the fridge or they have already begun to unfold their leaves, you can plant them in pots and put them on a bright, cool windowsill. True, many hosts in room conditions do not acquire the leaf color characteristic of the variety, so final conclusions about regrading will only have to be made after the plant has acclimatized in the garden. Yes, and plants with overgrown leaves will have to be planted in the ground late, after the end of all frosts, besides carefully shading.

Fairly undemanding in storage and bearded irises. But their plots require drier conditions, and in dampness they can rot.

Waiting for spring. Planting material is most often stored in a refrigerator or basement at a low positive temperature.
Rhizomes are shifted with slightly moistened peat, coconut fiber, sawdust, light earth, and even better - sphagnum moss and placed in loosely covered plastic bags or plastic containers. Plants with small, thin, quickly drying roots can be planted in pots with soil, but they are stored in the same conditions. A very good solution would be to take planting material frost-resistant plants to the cottage and bury in the snow. Choose a shady place in the garden where there is no water in the spring, and dig the snow to the ground. Remove the rhizomes from the package, lay them on the ground, cover with peat, earth or sawdust, and on top with snow. But this can only be done with completely “sleeping” plants, with unopened buds. If the leaves begin to unfold, negative temperatures are contraindicated for them.
After the snow melts, plant perennials in the ground. It is useful to use film or other shelters.

About the storage of some perennials in more detail:

daylilies

root neck - carefully inspect for rot. If necessary, treat with antifungal drugs or root rot agents.
Daylilies are perfectly overexposed in the refrigerator at a temperature of +1 + 4. The roots must be placed in a slightly damp substrate, it is better to store wrapped in paper (newspaper) or a perforated plastic bag. There is no need to plant daylilies at home in pots with a sprout length of up to 10 cm (personal experience). But if the sprouts are longer, then the daylily can be planted in a pot and grown as indoor plant, as this unpretentious plant easily tolerates home conditions. The only difficulty is that it is possible to plant a plant from a pot in the ground only after the threat of return frosts has passed, gradually accustoming it to sunlight. (For Ukraine - after May 25.) After landing on permanent place the plant should be shaded from direct sunlight.
Daylilies that were stored in the refrigerator after purchase can be planted in open ground at the end of April (according to the weather, focusing on the daylilies already in the garden, sheltering from frost plastic bottle, lutrasil).

What you should pay attention to when examining: roots - cut rotten ends, remove old, dry, rotten, damaged roots.
Root neck - carefully inspect for rot. If necessary, treat with antifungal drugs or root rot agents. They are perfectly overexposed in the refrigerator at a temperature of +1 + 4. The roots must be placed in a slightly damp substrate, better stored wrapped in paper (newspaper) or a perforated plastic bag.
There is no need to plant hostas at home in pots with a sprout length of up to 5 cm (personal experience). Personal experience: were sent to the pit when the earth was still frozen, poured with boiling water to dig a hole. I poured coconut substrate at the bottom of the pit, laid the hostas, covered it with coconut substrate, then earth. Perfectly overexposed from the end of March to May.
It can be planted in open ground at the end of April (according to the state of the plant, the smaller the sprout, the earlier it can be planted; according to the weather, focusing on the hosts already in the garden, covering it from frost with a plastic bottle, lutrasil).
Prefer neutral or slightly acidic soil. Depending on the size of the variety / type of hosta, the root neck is buried from 1.0 to 5.0 cm during planting.
If necessary, you can plant them in a pot at home, as the hosts easily tolerate the warm and dry air of the room. But we must keep in mind that such plants will have to be kept at home until the beginning of June, and only then planted in open ground, gradually hardening the plants.

What you should pay attention to when examining: roots - cut rotten ends, remove old, dry, rotten, damaged roots.
Root neck - carefully inspect for rot. If necessary, treat with antifungal drugs or root rot agents (Epinom).
They do not tolerate overexposure in apartment conditions on the windowsill, since the plant at the first stage of development requires a lower temperature, lower at night and slightly higher during the day. It is advisable to keep the rhizomes in the refrigerator at a temperature of 0 to +3, wrapped in sphagnum moss and a perforated plastic bag before planting in the ground.
If you still have to plant the plants in a pot, then you need a "cold start". We plant in a poor substrate - 2/3 sand, 1/3 earth, put it in the refrigerator. Watch for leaves. They begin to grow - we take them out, put them in a cool place +10 +12 during the day, and put them in the refrigerator at night. Do not flood! We plant in open ground in May, be sure to shade the planted plants.

What you should pay attention to when examining: roots - trim rotten ends, remove old, dry, rotten, damaged roots.
Root neck - carefully inspect for rot. If necessary, treat with antifungal drugs or root rot agents.
They do not tolerate overexposure in apartment conditions on the windowsill, since the plant at the first stage of development requires a lower temperature, lower at night and slightly higher during the day. It is advisable to keep the rhizomes in the refrigerator at a temperature of 0 to +3, wrapped in sphagnum moss and a perforated plastic bag before planting in the ground. If you still have to plant the plants in a pot, then you need a "cold start". We plant in a poor substrate - 2/3 sand, 1/3 earth, put it in the refrigerator. Watch for leaves. They begin to grow - we take them out, put them in a cool place +10 +12 during the day, and put them in the refrigerator at night. Do not flood!
However, it is better to take it to the dacha as soon as possible and dig it in (if the earth has not yet thawed, then you can use purchased land for this).

What you should pay attention to when examining: remove loose scales (if they are hard and not rotten, they can be used for reproduction).
If there is rot, remove to healthy tissue. If necessary, treat with antifungal drugs or root rot agents.
Overexposure: Perfectly overexposed in the refrigerator. Use a preparation recommended for preplant treatment / storage. Dry. Place in a dry substrate, wrap in newspapers and store in the refrigerator at a temperature of +1 + 4. It is advisable to place the bulbs with the sprout up, then even if the lilies begin to grow, the sprout will not be bent. If the sprout exceeds 10-15 cm, it can be planted in a pot. It is only necessary to remember that lilies grow roots at a temperature not higher than 10-15 degrees. Therefore, the pot must be placed on a glazed balcony or in the refrigerator. It is possible to plant a lily from a pot in open ground only after the threat of returning frosts has passed. Lilies stored in the refrigerator are planted in May.

Clematis:

Clematis with 1-2 eyes or, if the purchased clematis is frail, planted in long pots without a bottom, usually use rose pots. You can use pots for clematis, those that are larger. Sometimes I plant at home in not very large pots, and when I bring them to the dacha, I plant them in large ones. Why do I plant in a pot without a bottom, but because only for a single season, the roots of clematis in good conditions out of the pot. If the pots have a bottom, then as a rule I get a twisted lump of roots, some of the roots come out of the drainage holes and when digging these roots break off, and the tangled ones have to be unraveled when planting, which is not good, because in the fall I try to transfer the clematis from the pot to a permanent place rather than replant.
So, I planted it in a pot (I buy land, if it is not possible to buy, you can use the land from the garden) and I dig the pots into the ground in a stationary greenhouse. If there is no stationary greenhouse or there is no place for pots, then you can build a greenhouse from arcs. The main condition is that there is constant humidity, warmth and there is no stagnation of water at the roots.
That's when clematis grow by leaps and bounds and in one season you can get decent bushes already with several buds or even sprouts. I never put pots on the ground, I always dig them in, so there is more opportunity to keep moisture inside the pot at the roots.
Peonies - a separate conversation.
About buying peonies. The life cycle of these plants is such that transplantation and division are best tolerated in the fall. Rhizomes planted in spring take root worse, lag behind in growth, and are more susceptible to disease. In fairness, it must be said that it is not easy to completely ruin the peony root - they are very unpretentious - but on the other hand, you can easily lose a year, or even two, before full flowering. Experienced pion growers advise immediately planting the rhizomes acquired in the spring in large (3-8 l) pots and placing or dropping them in the garden, and in August-September, at the optimal time for peonies, plant them in a permanent place