Scheme of a homemade plywood boat. Homemade plywood boats: materials and tools, drawings and layout, hull assembly, glue work and painting

The development and appearance of such an unusual project is due to the widespread interest of sailing enthusiasts in maritime antiquity. A small and shallow-draft (draft 1.5 m), but quite seaworthy cruising yacht, designed for long-distance voyages of a crew of 8-9 people, some features are given that are characteristic of sailboats of the 18th - early 19th centuries - the heyday of the sailing fleet. However, the project provides for the use modern materials and hull design, as well as technological methods used today ...

The ship's spar was designed taking into account the main features of shipbuilding since the sailing fleet: the "classic" proportions and principles of armament have been preserved. In the old days, the masts of small vessels were most often made in one piece or were recruited from well-fitted parts - pieces fastened from the outside with vulpings (binding with a strong cable) through 800-1000 mm ...

For some time now, operations with the 48-kilogram Whirlwind have also become difficult for me - carrying it from a place of storage to a boat, hanging it on a transom, removing it from a boat, etc. A dream appeared of a leisurely displacement boat with an economical stationary engine, with a cabin , which would protect from rain and wind. And so the boat presented in the photo and sketch appeared, equipped with a four-stroke carburetor engine "UD-25" with air cooling ...

In fishing and hunting shops you can find anything you want, and boats are no exception.

But many people want to make their own watercraft, because it is interesting and inexpensive.

Do-it-yourself boats have a number of advantages over factory options:

  • Ease of construction. Such a plywood fixture will be much lighter than wooden or metal structures;
  • Water stability. For such a boat, solid sheets of plywood are used, and its shapes are ideal for launching;
  • Low cost. You will only need to spend money on plywood pieces, glue, varnish and boards;

To ensure the safety of the structure, you need to use only high-quality materials. Plywood must be solid, without damage. The price of the first varieties is slightly higher, but reliability is also important.

For people who have a skill in carpentry, the work will be easy. It will take a week and a half if you make a boat in free time, then a couple of full days.

But only a professional can do designing with his own hands, because you need to accurately calculate the carrying capacity, capacity, nose shape and other nuances.

Construction assembly

When there are materials and drawings, then you need to start work. The first step is to cut out the details from plywood. For this, it is best to use a jigsaw. It is important to accurately cut to size, otherwise the design will not converge.

Then the frames are glued to the tailgate, these parts will be very heavy. If a boat needs a motor, then the tailgate is strengthened.

The next step will be the fastening of the transom with the sides and bottom. Sheathing parts must be fixed with glue.

After assembling the structure, you need to prepare aerosil and epoxy resin. These substances are mixed 1 to 1. The resulting substance is used to seal the seams. Also for this purpose, inside the boat, the seams are sealed with fiberglass strips.

Important: this work uses very toxic substances, so you need to work on the street, or in a ventilated area, and using special means protection.

When the glue dries, you need to put the frames. Then you need to install seats, luggage compartments and other elements. After the vessel has dried, it is necessary to proceed to the final stage, this is grinding and sealing with fiberglass and epoxy mortar.

After that, the process of painting the structure follows, this will help to further protect the vessel from the influence of water and give a good appearance.

Painting consists of:

  • Degreasing of all parts of the vessel;
  • Treatment of wooden elements with impregnation;
  • Surface putties. This will mask all defects;
  • Primers. To do this, you can use boiled drying oil;
  • Application of paints and varnishes. To do this, you can buy any paint, but special waterproof materials for plywood will help increase the life of the boat;

Prices

Building such a craft with your own hands is an interesting and creative activity for people who like to do things on their own. The main thing is to adhere to the dimensions indicated by the drawings.

It is possible that during this process, there will be errors that will need to be redone. But, the result is a great and inexpensive boat. It is best to store such a tool on dry land. This boat is perfect for use on calm lakes and rivers.

It is forbidden to go out to sea or raft down mountain rivers. You also need to carefully monitor the seams and the integrity of the structure, if there are problem areas, then they need to be sealed.

With a thrifty attitude and proper storage, such a watercraft will last a long time, and will help you have a great time fishing, or just while walking along the pond.

homemade boat from plywood (master class, photo, step by step)

So his hands reached the realization of an old dream, he began to build a boat. For the first time, I chose an easy project, so to speak, for training. I went to the production of similar boats in Cherepovets and spied something there and bought the missing materials, for which special thanks to the owner of the shipyard.

This is what the boat should look like:

Today I cut the sheets of plywood and proceeded to the most important and difficult process, in my opinion, is the cutting and gluing of plywood sheets. Because the length of the boat exceeds the length of standard plywood sheets, then they have to be spliced, there are many ways to do this, but I chose the most technically complex, but also more aesthetic option for gluing "on the mustache".

We mark up.

We process plywood sheets first with a planer, and then with a grinder.

This is what it looks like during processing.

This is how the sheets should fit and stick together.

After fitting the parts, I glued them together and placed them under a press.

That's all for now preparatory work on the boat, after the sheets stick together, I will start marking and cutting out the details.

At first, I worked out the connection "on a mustache" on scraps of plywood and it was scary to look at it, but the experience came when working on a "finishing" version :) I hope I will master everything further.

That's about the boat.

Basic data:

Maximum length ................2.64 m
Width overall .............. 1.28 m
Board height .........................0.38 m
Case weight ........................30 kg
Load capacity .................180 kg
Crew .................................. 2 people
Permissible power. p / motor ... 2.5 hp

Today was a day of fruitful work and great progress :)

He pulled out the sheets from under the press and removed the strips between which they were sandwiched. The joint turned out to be even and very strong (then they tried to break the scraps from the bottom, it bursts not along the joint of the sheets). Thus, blanks of the required length were obtained for the manufacture of the boat.

I start the markup with stuffing the center line, then all sizes will go from it.

Here I drew the bottom of the boat, it seems to have turned out beautifully:

I start cutting. It is advisable to take a jigsaw with high speeds, use files for curly cutting plywood so as not to tear the edges of the sheets.

We are strictly following the markup :)

Here is half of the bottom ready.

And here is the whole bottom :)

We mark one side, then we put two blanks on top of each other and fasten them with clamps, after which we cut both sides at once.

I mark and saw out the transom.

At the junction of plywood sheets, we chamfer with a grinder and proceed to sew the boat with copper wire clips.

We work from stern to bow.

In this case, you can not do without an assistant.

I also try hard to sew everything beautifully :)

Here are the seams.

Here is the boat and ready :)

Sample for yourself :)

And upside down.

Today I really moved to the final stage of the project completion :)
First of all, I stretched all the staples harder. Checked the geometry of the boat. Then, with a chisel, he planted staples at the inner joints of the sides. After all this, I cut out temporary spacers and fixed them in the places where the frames were installed.

While doing these things in the new room, I constantly felt the eyes on me. By the way, here is a view of the straightened boat from the stern.

For a more even formation of seams, I decided to fill the lines masking tape, it looks like it turned out nice.

I decided to glue it in the evening, but for now I drew out the frame templates and started assembling them.

Here are the finished frames, assembled on epoxy glue and self-tapping screws.

Finally, I started gluing the internal seams, I didn’t think that it was such a painstaking work :) For the first time, everything seemed to work out fine. The resin soaked the fiberglass normally, there are no bubbles anywhere.

This is how the seam turns out, smooth and transparent. The photo shows that the structure of the tree is visible through three layers of glass tape, which means everything is normal.

This is what was done last time: the frames were adjusted and the fenders were screwed on.

Today I installed the frames in place and fixed them with glue and self-tapping screws, cut out reinforcing pads on the transom.

After that, he turned the boat over, removed all the paper clips from the wire and proceeded to round the joints of the seam.

And when everything was ready, I started pasting the outer seams.

The seams turned out to be even and well soaked, even I like it myself.

Seams on the transom.

Today I finished work on the formation of the hull of the boat, next time I will install benches and start preparing for painting.

The sides are fastened not only with glue, but also reinforced with three layers of glass tape on each side, this is already fiberglass. Self-tapping screws from the frames can be turned out altogether, they will no longer be needed there after gluing. Some people actually do just that. Such a boat can be assembled without a single screw in the hull at all.

Today I went to make a boat only in the evening, because. waiting for the glue to set well. I checked the outer seams, I really liked how it was done, it turned out to be strong fiberglass. After that, I decided to make planks for benches. I also cut out and fitted the stem to the bow of the boat.

Here are the slats of the front bench.

Here is the middle bench.

I also cut out slats for the back bench, but it's still too early to install them.

Apparently stretching the pleasure of the process, or maybe out of a desire to do everything qualitatively, I make the boat slowly and little by little :)
Today I bought glue, self-tapping screws and high-quality lumber without knots. All this was intended to install the keel and outer stringers. These necessary elements will give greater strength to the bottom, as well as protect the boat during mooring to the shore, protect the paintwork from scratches.

I cut the slats, sanded and installed them in place with glue and self-tapping screws.

Also today I installed a stem and a bow eyebolt for tying a rope or anchor line.

For today, the work had to be stopped, because. the whole thing should be firmly grasped, for this I used additional weights.

By the way, bench blanks have already been cut out, but they will be installed after painting the boat from the inside.

Every professional fisherman or hunter is simply obliged to have a boat in his arsenal. At the moment the market is overflowing with a range of boats various models and modifications for different tastes and wealth.

This article will outline detailed description how to create your own boat with your own hands.

Self-assembly of a plywood boat

Many people wonder if it is possible to make a high-quality swimming facility on their own, save on it and enjoy the manufacturing process.

Boats made at home have a number of undeniable advantages before their factory "brothers":

  • Product weight. When using plywood, the weight is significantly reduced compared to similar wooden or metal models.
  • The use of solid sheets will allow you to create ideal forms, which will provide excellent stability and ensure ease of launching.
  • Minimum final cost. It will be spent, it will only have to be spent on consumables, such as plywood, boards and glue, varnish. It is worth noting that much can be found in the garage of a thrifty owner.

People with carpentry skills will spend a week and a half on this work, provided they work in their spare time or two full days.

Dimensions and drawings

Consider the technical possibilities future boat more.

Relatively flat and narrowed bottom with a slight rise in the bow and stern. The height of the bow of the side is 540 millimeters, which in turn is more than that of many motor boats of this class.

In order for the overestimated nose not to interfere with the view, a cut is made along the length of the bow by 100 millimeters. The bow is designed in such a way as to facilitate the embarkation or disembarkation of passengers, as well as loading.

Special cargo compartments are provided under the bow and stern. The design provides for the possibility of using oars and low-power motors up to 8 horsepower.

This model can be safely called multifunctional, as it is perfect for hunting, fishing and just household needs.

It is possible to install a canopy, in case of bad weather conditions on a special aluminum structure for which nests are provided in the side of the boat.

The greatest length in meters 2.3. Width in meters 1.34

Board height:

  • The bow is 54 centimeters.
  • The back is 40 cm.
  • The height of the stern is 45 centimeters.
  • Body weight twenty kilograms.
  • Load capacity 180 kilograms.

Possibility to install an outboard motor from two to eight horsepower.

It is possible to use one oar pair.


Drawing No. 1:

  • a) Bottom view.
  • B) Top view.
  • B) Transom (blanks)

Figure #2. outer skin(preparation of sheets):

  • A) Board.
  • B) cheekbone.
  • B) bottom.

Construction materials

To build a homemade boat, you will need some experience with carpentry tools.

Below is a list of the tools you will need:

  1. screwdriver
  2. Manual milling machine.
  3. Manual grinder.
  4. Clamps.
  5. Electric jigsaw.

List of materials for assembly:

  1. Waterproof plywood with a thickness of at least 4 millimeters and dimensions of 2.5 by 1.25 meters and one and a half sheets of 6 millimeters.
  2. Planed boards with a thickness of 25 millimeters.
  3. Rails are wooden.
  4. Brass nails.
  5. Wood screws.
  6. Epoxy resin.
  7. The varnish is waterproof.
  8. Fiberglass.
  9. Beam 50 to 3400
  10. Beam 40 by 20 by 4000

Assembly - detailed instructions, step by step

We make a frame for the sides

The frame is assembled on a workbench, and finished on the ground. You lay a keel on a workbench, to one side of which a sternpost with a pre-attached transom is attached, and to the other side a stem.

The keel part with attached frames and stems is connected with nails.

You should carefully check for the absence of distortions and, if any, carry out an adjustment.

Adjustment can be made by stretching the string between the stem and the transom. After making sure that the axes match, you can finally fix it.

A thin cloth or paper impregnated with thick paint or resin is laid between all joints.

After the stems have been fixed, you can proceed with the installation of the frames.

At a right angle on the frames, a cutout for the keel should be made. For a tight and reliable fastening of the frame, the cut under the keel should be made 0.5 mm narrower than the frame.

The landing should be checked with a tight rope, which should coincide with the beams. By setting the frames at an angle of 90 degrees with respect to the keel, you can finally fix it. After all the operations done, you should set the deflection angle.

For this purpose, you can use a round or rectangular beam, which is temporarily fixed to the ends of the keel from the inside, and an 11 cm beam is inserted between the keel and the beam.

To exclude lateral distortions, the stems and transoms, as well as beams, are fastened with some kind of timber.

Frame sheathing

After that, he will draw in the same dimensions the formats of plywood sheets prepared for sheathing and try on templates for the minimum amount of waste on these sheets.

Detail contours natural size when marking on plywood, it can be obtained by connecting the points found when setting off the specified dimensions from the axes of the parts using a long ruler or pattern.

All parts are cut with a jigsaw with fine teeth, taking into account a margin of 2 - 3 millimeters. For the subsequent joining of the sheets, you will need to add 70 millimeters.

Before gluing, the axes of the parts to be glued should be aligned, using a thread driven between the boards on which the workpiece will be attached.

After the glue has hardened, the same parts of the board should be knocked together with small nails and adjusted to each other with a planer.

Along both edges of the cheekbones at a distance of 12 millimeters, holes with a diameter of 2 millimeters are drilled in increments of 50 millimeters for wire fasteners, which will subsequently be connected.

Fasten the skin should start from the bow of the boat, fastening with copper wire through the holes made along the bottom and side. The wire is twisted from the outside by two or three turns with a slight slack.

Then we sheathe the transom and the bottom of the boat

After the sides are assembled, templates A and B are installed and temporarily fixed at the positions shown on the planking drawing.

Having assembled the bottom according to the same principle that was used when assembling the sides, you should install the transom of the boat and fix it with 3x18 screws at a distance of 50 millimeters using glue.

There is such a possibility that the sides will protrude into the stern beyond the transom, in which case the edges should be trimmed with a planer.

After all the above operations have been done, you should finally tighten all the paper clips with pliers and compress everything from the inside.

Fiberglass

All cracks and joints of the resulting boat should be glued with fiberglass cut into ribbons.

The first layer should be at least 25 millimeters wide, and the next two layers should be at least 80 millimeters, however, it is worth considering that the 2nd and 3rd layers should be offset in different directions from 10 to 15 millimeters.

After the fiberglass is completely cured, cut off the protruding ends of the wire braces and glue the fiberglass on the outside.

The bottom should be reinforced with planks to increase its rigidity and increase its service life. This is done in this way:

The prepared planks are drilled for screws in increments of 20 - 25 centimeters. After that, the blanks are laid out in places and attached to the screws, marked with a pencil and removed.

The marked places are treated with glue and the blanks are screwed back.

After the glue dries, the screws can be unscrewed and the holes can be hammered with specially prepared nails carved from wood.

After removing the accessories, all holes in the boat's skin must be puttied with sawdust or wood flour mixed with epoxy.

The inner part of the body is treated with hot drying oil. You can use regular oil-based paint to paint the bottom and cans of the boat.

Adhesive selection

Adhesive material in the construction of boats is used:

  • Epoxy resins.
  • Vinyl ester resins.
  • Resins are polyester.

Let's take a closer look at the above resins:

  1. Epoxy resin - can be safely called a universal resin used in the manufacture of swimming facilities, has found an indispensable application in composite structures and ship repair. These resins in terms of indicators provide the highest quality of the glue line.
  2. Vinyl ester resin is essentially a hybrid compound. Epoxy molecules provide increased strength. Moderate shrinkage during curing, and high strength prevents the formation of cracks during solidification. It is also worth noting the increased toxicity of this type of resin and the rather high cost, in comparison with other types.
  3. Polyester resins - can be safely called the cheapest type of resin, used in the construction of ships using plastic.

    The main advantage, in comparison with other types of resins, is the relative cheapness of this product. The disadvantages include only what is used only for gluing fiberglass.

    These types of resins are used for the construction of boats and yachts and are used to impregnate products in the plastic reinforcement process.

Regardless of the material, absorbency and adhesion are undoubtedly the key to making a quality boat.

Not everyone can buy a finished boat, because the prices are very biting. In addition, not all designs meet the needs of different customers. If you take inflatable boat, then these are not very reliable models, since they can easily be damaged in difficult conditions. And this means that they are not very reliable. In such cases, a decision is made to make a boat with your own hands from plywood. The construction of a small boat begins with sketches, which are then transformed into very professional drawings.

This is a fascinating process and only those fishermen who are in constant creative search can do it. In addition, building a boat is like a factor of self-affirmation. But if you look at the process seriously, then there is nothing complicated.

A small boat, which is able to take on board 2-3 fishermen, which does not have a lot of weight, can be easily made from plywood, as one of the most affordable building materials. Moreover, the boat can move both with the help of oars, and with the help of a boat motor or a sail. This does not require special, professional training, which is quite feasible even for beginners.

Plywood is a strong enough material to build a small boat, not to mention expensive yachts, where plywood is also widely used in their manufacture. In addition, it is simply amenable to processing, using electrical or manual devices.

In addition, if a motor is installed on such a boat, then it can develop a solid speed with good running characteristics. Besides, plywood boat much more reliable than an inflatable boat.

Materials and tools

Firstly, you will have to choose an appropriate room for mercy, where the boat could freely accommodate. It is desirable that the room be heated, since all work can take place in winter. In the summer, hardly anyone will start building a boat: in the summer you already need to sail on it. Moreover, the room must be ventilated, with the ability to maintain optimal temperature regime. Since you will have to work with wood, the humidity should be optimal.

To draw a diagram, you need to have:

  • drawing accessories;
  • the pencils;
  • gum;
  • patterns;
  • rulers and triangles;
  • T-square;
  • cardboard and drawing paper;
  • glue for paper;
  • calculator.

During the construction phase you will need:

  • jigsaw;
  • hammer;
  • axe;
  • clamps (up to 10 pieces, no less);
  • brushes, spatulas (metal and rubber);
  • screwdriver;
  • electric and manual planer;
  • screwdrivers;
  • chisels;
  • stapler;
  • circular and hand saw.

Materials for the manufacture can serve as:

  • plywood (sheet 1.5x1.5 meters), 4-5 mm thick;
  • pine or oak boards;
  • fiberglass for pasting the hull of the boat;
  • putty for sealing cracks;
  • waterproof glue;
  • drying oil or water-repellent impregnation for wood;
  • oil paint or waterproof enamel;
  • nails, screws, self-tapping screws;
  • metal strip, metal for various fasteners.

The main dimensions of the boat

If you use plywood with a thickness of 5 mm, then its dimensions will be optimal:

  1. The total length of the craft is 4.5 meters.
  2. The width of the craft (at its widest point) is 1.05 m.
  3. The depth of the boat is 0.4 meters.

What is the boat made of?

The boat consists of a key element - the keel, which serves as a base and to which other elements of the boat are attached. The bow of the boat is called the stem and on the reverse side is the sternpost. With the help of these components, the boat is given longitudinal rigidity. Similar structural details can be made from a single piece of wood or individual components connected by gluing, as well as knocked down with nails or twisted screws.

The shape of the hull is determined by the presence of transverse power elements, which are called frames. The boards connected to the frames, stem and stern, form the sides of the boat.

If this frame is sheathed with plywood, then you get a boat. A deck is laid inside the boat - a sleigh, which is the lower deck, to protect the bottom of the boat.

Motor boats made of plywood

Motorized boats do not differ much in their design considerations compared to boats designed to move under oars or under sail. The difference lies only in the organization of a place for mounting the engine. As a rule, a transom board is attached to the stern, where the outboard motor is installed.

Separate designs of small boats are also equipped with other elements, such as a cockpit, deck stringers, side stringers, etc. To improve stability and floodability, special gaps are provided in the craft, which are filled mounting foam. This approach eliminates the possibility of flooding the boat if it capsizes.

Working drawings of the boat

All boat building work begins with blueprints, which must be professionally drawn up. If this is not possible, then you can turn to the Internet for help, where you can find ready-made drawings. The main thing is that they correspond to the main imaginations. But here, too, you need to be careful not to miss the main stages of assembling the boat and making additional components.

As a rule, most drawings are drawn on graph paper. This will make it possible to calculate in detail all the nodes of the structure.

A large sketch of the drawing can be drawn according to the following algorithm:

  • A line is drawn that conditionally divides the boat into two parts. This takes into account the fact that the two parts, left and right, must be symmetrical and exactly the same.
  • The drawn line is divided into several equal segments. Subsequently, frames will be installed in these areas.
  • Both a vertical display and a projection from above are drawn.
  • According to the transverse marks, the shapes of the frames are drawn.
  • The main dimensions of all components on the scale are checked.
  • The shape of the frames is drawn on a scale of 1: 1 on cardboard or thick paper.
  • The flexible lines of the boat shape are drawn using a ruler or template.

The resulting pattern is folded along the drawn line to check for symmetry. Both parts must repeat each other flawlessly.

Transferring a pattern to a piece of wood

After the next check of the drawings for correctness, they are transferred to cardboard. Thick and stiff paper will facilitate the stage of transferring drawings to blanks. The drawing is transferred to the workpiece, taking into account all the contours and contours exactly as it is drawn, without all kinds of overlaps, reductions and increases in size.

When copying patterns, the direction of the wood fibers should be taken into account. In this case, it all depends on the design of the elements of the boat. If the element is made of plywood, then the layers of plywood themselves are arranged in such a way that the fibers of each subsequent layer are perpendicular to the previous layer.

As for the manufacture of futoks, they can be made larger in height, since they can then be cut off.

Technological stages of production

To build a plywood boat with your own hands, you need to do the following steps:

  • transfer the drawing to the template;
  • transfer drawings from templates to wood;
  • install the keel and secure the stem;
  • fix the frames;
  • fix the stern post and transom board (for the motor);
  • sheathe the bottom with plywood;
  • sheathe the sides;
  • seal joints and stringers;
  • putty and paint the hull of the boat.

boat hull

The skeleton of the boat and its hull are assembled from prefabricated parts. The assembly process must be carried out carefully and carefully, in all planes.

The frames to the keel are first attached in advance, and only after the next control are they finally fixed. Moreover, the fastening must be reliable, since the boat will have to be turned over before sheathing it with plywood.

We collect the inner contour of the futoks

The strength of the structure, including the sides, depends on how reliable the fastening of the futoks is. Futoks are integral part construction of the frame, which consists of a floor timber and two futoks.

Floortimber is the lower part of the frame, which is designed to be attached to the keel. Futoks are the side parts of the frames to which the sides of the boat are attached. The futox and floortimber fastening points are structurally made somewhat wider, which increases the stability of the entire structure. This is especially important for watercraft, where engines will be installed, which increase the load on the structure as a whole and during movement in particular.

stem material

The stem has a complex shape, which is due to the loads acting on it during the movement of the boat. One of the most suitable materials oak can be used for its manufacture, but, in extreme cases, elm can also be used.

You will be lucky if you can find a piece of a suitable tree that has a natural bend. If this is not possible, then you can make a stem from individual elements by gluing. If you want to have a solid structure, then you need to take an ax and other tools, and cut it down according to the shape of the boat.

Keel design

The keel is the simplest component of the boat structure, and is a typical board, 25-30 mm thick and 3.5 m long.

side boards

To do this, choose healthy, even and knot-free boards, 150 mm wide and up to 5 m long.

Transom manufacturing

The transom is designed to mount the outboard motor. The transom board should be 25mm thick. If plywood is used, then it is better to glue several layers in order to end up with a suitable thickness (20-25 mm). The base for mounting the motor must be rigid, so its thickness must not be less than 20 mm. If necessary, the transom board is reinforced from above wooden block. In this case, it all depends on the method of mounting the outboard motor.

Making a boat frame

The frame is assembled in the following sequence:

  • the keel is installed;
  • pins are installed;
  • places of installation of frames are marked;
  • installation of frames;
  • fastening of frames, stems and transom to side boards;
  • checking the correct installation of all elements, before their final fastening;
  • it is desirable to treat the joints of structural elements with a waterproof composition or drying oil.

Plywood boat sheathing

According to the working drawing, blanks are cut out of plywood for sheathing the hull of the boat.

Subsequently:

  • the frame of the boat capsizes upside down;
  • all surfaces of the keel and frames are treated with emery cloth and made absolutely smooth;
  • the details of the bottom of the boat are installed in their place and fixed with a stapler, after which the attachment points are pierced with nails;
  • the side elements of the skin are first tried on, and then fixed in the same way as when attaching the bottom;
  • when gluing blanks, you should pay attention to the direction of the fibers of the outer layer of plywood. They should be located along, not across the boat.

Working with glue

Work with glue is aimed at obtaining a solid structure, and, if necessary, filling seams or cracks with it. When working with plywood, all joints of the workpiece with the keel and frames are glued. After punching with nails, the areas where the plywood is connected to the supporting elements are filled with glue if they do not fit snugly.

To improve the strength and driving performance of the craft, plywood sheathing is glued with fiberglass. Similar protection wooden structure increases the durability of the boat. The fiberglass is evenly distributed over the plane of the sheathing, with no creases or blistering, which indicates poor workmanship. The fabric is glued from the keel, towards the side boards.

Painting

As soon as the surface of the boat dries well, proceed to the next stage - puttying and painting. Ready-made putty mixtures on an artificial basis are perfect. The boat is painted in two stages: first a primer layer is applied, and then one or two layers of paint.

Registration of a boat

To register a boat of your own manufacture, you must submit the following documents to the State Inspectorate for Small Vessels:

  • the passport;
  • individual taxpayer number;
  • the Certificate of primary technical examination of the floating craft approved and signed by the inspector with a conclusion on its suitability for operation;
  • payment receipts for materials that were used in the construction process;
  • receipts for payment of state duty for registration;
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