How to make a watering can from a bottle. What can be done from plastic canisters with your own hands - crafts for the garden, cottage and garage How to make a simple home watering can
Everyone who grows seedlings knows firsthand how difficult it becomes to water seedlings when they grow up. In order to somehow facilitate their work, summer residents invent various watering cans. We invite you to familiarize yourself with some of them.
1. Insert a slightly curved tube into a clean plastic bottle (1.5-2 L). It should be longer than the height of the bottle so that you can easily water the seedlings even in the most inconvenient place.
So that when the tube is bent, it does not decrease in diameter (flattened), close one end of the tube with plasticine or clay, pour water and put it in the cold (possibly in the freezer), so that water does not spill out of it. When the water turns to ice, bend the tube. In this case, the tube itself will take the desired shape, and the ice will not allow the walls of the tube to shrink.
Many gardeners grow seedlings in foil containers, and a watering can made in this way will be a great help in caring for seedlings.
2. Sometimes seedlings do not require root watering, but with the capture of leaves. In order not to accidentally douse the seedlings with water, make a do-it-yourself watering can.
Wash a half-liter plastic bottle thoroughly, remove stickers from outer side and mark the dots with a marker, instead of which you will then make holes. Place the dots in a 5x5 square.
Clamp the nail head in pliers and burn on fire (candle) for 20-30 seconds the end of the nail. Now pierce the drawn points with a heated nail. When the nail cools down, heat it up again. On the back of the bottle, use a knife to cut a hole for filling with water so that it is 2-4 cm higher than the watering holes. Fill the bottle with water and carefully place it horizontally above the plants.
For convenience, you can build a handle on a bottle-watering can from adhesive tape.
3. There are not many watering cans either in the country or at home for seedlings and plants. Many plants cannot be watered with a hose, especially in greenhouse gardening, so it's best and easiest to have a watering can at every turn. In order not to spend money on the purchase, we suggest doing it yourself. To do this, take any plastic canister (from water, car oil), polypropylene pipe 50 cm long and rotated 60°.
Near the bottom on a flat place, attach a “turn” and mark the diameter of the future hole with a marker. Cut and try on how easily the pipe enters the canister (there should not be a large gap). Lubricate the connection well with hot glue, insert the pipe and leave to dry. Then you just have to put a piece of pipe on the pipe and, if necessary, shorten it by cutting off the excess. The optimal length of the "spout" is considered to be the height that does not exceed the canister lid.
Tie the tube (spout) to the handle of the canister so that it does not break under water pressure. A cut plug can be inserted into the spout so that water flows in a fan in a limited stream. If the watering can has to scoop up water in the well, then for the convenience of filling with water, make a hole on the opposite side of the spout so that the air can quickly escape.
4. From a small plastic container (shampoo bottle) you can also make an excellent watering can. To do this, it is enough to make holes at the bottom with an awl or nail. Pour water into a container, close the neck, turn upside down and water.
5. You can make the most primitive watering can. Make holes in the lid of the plastic canister and on the opposite side for air to escape.
6. If it is not possible to regularly water seedlings or seedlings, then it makes sense to do automatic watering. For this at the bottom plastic bottle make holes with a hot nail, fill the container with water and close the lid. Dig a bottle into the ground next to each plant in the garden, or one for several seedlings.
As you can see, there are many options to make a watering can with your own hands, choose your own, make and share your suggestions.
Watering can - necessary thing for the gardener, but it is not always available where you grow houseplants, each time watering them from a mug. Watering plants under the root does not always favorably affect their appearance, since some plants need to be watered from above, capturing leaves and flowers.
In the article we will look at how to make a convenient watering can from a plastic bottle.
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1. Take a half-liter or liter plastic bottle and wash it thoroughly, removing all kinds of stickers, as well as removing any remaining soda or juice. |
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2. Use a marker to mark the bottle with dot marks where the holes will be located in the future. The holes on the bottle should not be too close to each other, but also too far apart, since at a close distance, the water will flow in one continuous stream. The optimal number of holes for irrigation is 25 pieces, 5 horizontally and 5 vertically, forming a square on the walls of the bottle. |
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3. Take pliers and a small nail. Clamp the nail with pliers in the area of \u200b\u200bthe cap, and bring it to an open fire. For an open flame, you can use a paraffin candle. Only the tip of the nail needs to be heated on fire for 20 seconds. |
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4. Bring the heated nail to where the markings are, then pierce the wall of the bottle by slightly pressing on the nail. If, when making holes, the nail has cooled down, then heat it again over a candle. |
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5. On the opposite side of the bottle, using a knife, cut a square hole for pouring water into the bottle. You choose the diameter of the square hole yourself, but it should not be lower than the holes for watering, relative to the bottom of the bottle. |
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6. For easy watering from a bottle, you can make a handle out of tape. |
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7. Fill the plastic bottle with water so that it is 2-3 cm below the hole. |
| 8. Gently tilt the bottle horizontally over the plant as you start watering it. Fill the bottle with water as needed. | |
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I propose Master Class how to make a mini watering can for DIY mini garden .
For the manufacture of a watering can, the same thin cardboard for drawing or watercolor paper is taken as for the basket in the article. Two types of coating are involved in the coloring of finished products. First, the finished watering can is covered with thick layers of enamel or any acrylic paint, in 2 or 3 coats to create textured bulges and to create the feeling of welds on metal. And finally covered with glossy varnish. Although, it can also be covered with metallic paint, silver, or you can create an aging effect. That is, cover with brown paint, then walk in the right places with a stearin candle and, finally, with light paint, and then clean with fine sandpaper those places that were rubbed with a candle. Paint to your heart's content according to your imagination. The main thing is that your decorate and enliven mini watering can made for your mini garden do it yourself .
And I propose to make a mini watering can for a mini garden according to the next Master class.
Master class, mini watering can for mini garden
You will need:
Thin cardboard for drawing or paper for watercolor,
Elmer's glue or PVA
carpet thread, it is thicker and more rigid than ordinary thread
tweezers, scissors or hole punch
stylus, also known as a stick or a tool with a ball at the end with a diameter of about 8mm (something that can be used to create a bulge by pressing on the cardboard)
acrylic or enamel paints and glossy varnish
ruler with circles templates.
Prepare a piece of foam rubber or household rags that are sold in household departments.
The main thing is to be soft and elastic so that you can put paper on them and squeeze out a bulge on the paper, as will be shown later.
Master class, mini watering can for a mini garden. Part 1.
1. Print the diagram so that the dimensions of my picture match the dimensions of yours. Adjust the size of your leaflet to the size of my picture so that the square for scale on your copy is also 3 cm by 3 cm, then you will get a real pattern. Or just increase the screen size with the Ctrl key. Hold down the Ctrl key and move the mouse wheel. Attach the tracing paper to the screen and circle the outlines with a pencil.
2.Cut off a piece of cardboard 2.5x7.5 cm and glue, pressing well, onto another piece of cardboard and lay to dry. This will be needed for the handle of the watering can.
4. According to the pattern, cut out the main part of the body of the watering can.
5. Before gluing, put the part on the edge of the table, press with the palm of your hand and pull the part down, pressing lightly, this will make the part convex and can be glued more easily.
6. Glue along the intended seam. Let it dry. Squeeze with crocodile clips to better stick together.
Master class, mini watering can for a mini garden. Part 2.
1. Make a hole in a piece of cardboard with a hole punch.
2. Using a ruler with circle patterns, draw two circles according to the pattern. The smaller circle should be offset from the punch hole.
3.Cut out a large circle. If the watering can is dry, remove the clips.
4. Lubricate the edges of the large circle and the lower edge of the body of the watering can with glue and place the body of the watering can on the circle. Most likely, the circle will protrude, in this case, wait until the glue dries well and then cut off the excess.
5. Cut out the offset circle.
6. Put the rags in several layers and put a circle on them with an offset. With a stick with a round end, push the circle with an offset as shown in the photo.
7. You should get such a rounded detail. This is the top part of the mini garden watering can.
8. Now you need to glue both the edges of the lid and the edges of the watering can with glue.
9. Glue the top of the watering can. The center of the product is at the back where the tweezers are. The narrow part of the bowl is where the gluing line is.
Master class, mini watering can for a mini garden with your own hands. Part 3
1. For the spout, cut a 3 cm wide strip of katron and also round it on the edge of the table.
2. Wrap around the toothpick no more than 2 times, cut off the excess.
3. Carefully grease the paper with glue so as not to touch the toothpick, and roll it as shown in the photo.
4. Remove the spout from the toothpick and cut it diagonally with scissors to make the top of the spout.
5. Glue the thread to the spout, from the side facing the body of the watering can, as shown in the photo, help yourself with crocodiles so that the spout does not turn over. Saturate the thread with glue before gluing and dry it a little so that it is slightly damp.
6. From the glued piece of cardboard that we made at the beginning of the course, cut a strip 2 mm wide and glue the thread in the middle, along the piece. This will be the pen.
7. Glue the thread along the lines drawn on the body of the watering can.
8. And finally, glue the thread along the top seam of the watering can.
9. In the place where a cross is drawn on the body of the watering can, make a cut with a sharp knife, this is the place where the handle will be glued. Handle length about 54mm
Hello to all DIY lovers.
Today I want to present a very simple version of making a homemade watering can from a plastic bottle, which is especially convenient to use for watering seedlings of various vegetable crops.
I was forced to make such a watering can by the need to ensure the convenience and ease of watering a large number of vegetable seedlings growing on our windowsills at home.
The fact is that when watering from an ordinary watering can, the watering can itself has to be kept above and slightly to the side of the watered plant, so that its lower edge is almost at the level of the container in which this plant is grown.
This method is well suited for watering flowers growing in pots and standing on the windowsill in one row.
However, if you have to water the seedlings, especially those that have grown quite a lot, and the containers with which are in several rows, then using an ordinary watering can is not very convenient. Since with this method of watering, the watering can has to be raised high enough above the seedlings. But at the same time, a stream of water falls from a great height, which can lead to splashing and erosion of the roots of plants, and if you lower the watering can below, you can simply crush the seedlings.
That is why, especially for watering seedlings, I decided to make a special watering can from a plastic bottle with a long spout from a plastic hose.
Thanks to this design, when watering, you can keep the water bottle itself on the side of the seedlings, and the long spout can be pushed through the stems of the seedlings and thus reach the farthest containers with plants. At the same time, water from the bottle is poured out not under the influence of gravity, as in a conventional watering can, but as a result of pressing the body of a plastic bottle with your hands.
For the manufacture of such a watering can, we need the following accessories:
Materials:
The plastic bottle itself has a capacity of 2-2.5 liters.
Cork from a plastic bottle.
Transparent plastic hose with a diameter of 10 mm.
Instruments:
Caliper or ruler.
Scissors.
Drill for metal with a diameter of 9.5 mm.
Electric drill.
First you need to drill a hole in the cork. In this case, the diameter of this hole must be 0.4-0.8 mm less than the outer diameter of the plastic hose. This is necessary so that the hose enters the plug hole with some tightness, to ensure the strength and tightness of its connection with the plug.
Therefore, first we must measure with a caliper or ruler the outer diameter of the plastic hose. I have a hose diameter of 10 mm, so I took a drill with a diameter of 9.5 mm.
After that, insert the end of the hose into the drilled hole in the plug.
As I said, the hose should enter the hole of the plug with a good tightness, and its end should protrude from the underside of the plug by 4-5 mm.
Then, with scissors, obliquely cut off a piece of hose of the required length, which will serve as the spout of our watering can. I made the length of the nose equal to about 20 cm.
You can choose any length of the spout hose, depending on what and how you need to water.
And now our homemade watering can for seedlings is ready!
By the way, I must say that for greater reliability and tightness, at first I wanted to glue the cork with the hose with hot glue. However, it turned out that the hose in the cork is already holding quite firmly, and the tightness is well ensured. Therefore, I haven’t started gluing it yet, especially since if something happens, it will be easy to pull the hose out of the cork and replace it with a piece of the same hose of a different length.
Now let's try to water the seedlings from our watering can.
As I expected, watering seedlings from such a watering can is quite convenient, since you can “crawl” everywhere with a long spout, and at the same time, the plastic bottle itself is on the side and does not interfere with seeing the place of watering, and also does not crumple the seedlings.
It is also very convenient that the long spout of our watering can is flexible, and thanks to this, even the most inaccessible places can be watered by simply bending the hose.
In addition, it turned out another advantage of this watering can.
It turned out that if you do not press the plastic bottle during watering, but simply hold it at an angle, then the water from the nozzle-hose will not flow in a stream, but drip drop by drop, or pour in a very thin stream.
And this is very convenient when watering even very small seedlings, which have just sprouted from seeds and cannot be watered with a strong jet of water.
That is, in this case, very careful, gentle watering is obtained.
Another convenience of such a watering can is that if the capacity of one plastic bottle is not enough for watering, and you have to use two or three bottles, then there is no need to make such nozzles from a hose for each bottle.
Just one nozzle is enough, because you can simply, having irrigated from one bottle, remove the nozzle from it and screw it onto another bottle, and then, after emptying it, rearrange it to the next one and so on.
Naturally, if necessary, you can make several of these nozzles at once from corks with hoses of different lengths inserted into them, and possibly even different diameter, for various options glaze.
But for me, nevertheless, one nozzle is enough for now.
Well, that's probably all! All the best and all the best!
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earth drill
Similar technical device allows you to easily extract from the soil powerful roots of various weeds deeply seated in it.
hydrodrillThe device is designed to apply fertilizer directly to the root zone, significantly reduce moisture loss through evaporation, reduce the degree of injury to plant roots, and wash off pests from trunks and branches.
Hydrodrill. 1 - tube, 2 - tip, 3 - hose, 4 - tee, 5 - handle, 6 - tap, 7 - dispenser tank, 8 - flexible partition, 9 - hose, 10 - valve, 11 - hose.
A conical tip is put on a durable rubber hose. The diameter of its outlet should be 6 - 8 mm. With a pressure in the water supply system of 1 atm, the water flowing out of the hydraulic drill washes out a hole in the soil up to 70 cm deep (up to 6 cm in diameter) in a matter of seconds.
In order to apply top dressing with the help of a hydraulic drill, a hydraulic compressor with a flexible partition is connected to it. After connecting it, the supply of the nutrient solution is regulated using a special valve.
Drill from an old potA drill made from an old pan is fixed on a riser, having previously installed a drill bit (25 mm in diameter) from below. (Instead, a strip of steel twisted in a spiral can be used.) A knife is attached to the body from 2 sides. Before each of them, small slots were made (30 - 40 mm wide). When the drill is deepened through these same slots, the soil is fed into the pan. Then it is removed.
Drill from an old pan. 1 - tip, 2 - slot, 3 - knife, 4 - knife mount, 5 - body, 6 - riser.
Markers and planters
On the suburban area wherever you turn, manual labor is required. Even primitive mechanization of work will greatly facilitate the work and increase labor productivity. A marker is a device that allows one movement to make not one, but several grooves (or nests) for seeds at once.
Cross marker
cross marker. 1 - base, 2 - rail, 3 - handle, 4 - stand-support, 5 - tap.
If it is planned that the crops on the bed will be located across, the grooves are made using a transverse marker that captures the entire width of the ridge.
The base of the marker is the board. From below, slats are nailed to it, but not flat, but having a triangular section. A handle with a stand-support and a tap is attached from above. The marker is placed across the ridge and rested with the foot on the board. In this case, one of the edges of the rail is pressed into the soil and leaves even grooves. The thorn of the tap is a kind of border for the next installation of the marker. Row by row, setting a marker, mark the entire garden.
Longitudinal markerWhen the plants are placed along the ridge, a longitudinal marker is used, shaped like a rake. But this is only in form: instead of teeth, 3-sided parallel wooden blocks are attached to the base.
The device makes it possible to make 12 furrows at once in one pass.
simple markerA simpler marker will help make planting vegetables more accurate.
Its design and dimensions are shown in the figure (1 - for radish seeds, 2 - for pea seeds).
Rake markerYou can also adapt an ordinary rake for a marker. But this is not without improvement.
2 metal points are attached to the rake with bolts, the length of which exceeds their teeth. Having drilled several holes in the rake bar, rearranging the points, you can change the distance between them, and therefore the interval between the grooves.
Simplified MarkerIt will help out when you need to make many holes for seeds. Looks like a tool used by plasterers. Made from a board or a piece of chipboard. Wooden spikes are fixed on the working surface of the marker, and a handle is attached on top.
Easy markerThey are made from old ("toothless") rakes. To the base, on the opposite side, "antennae" of 3 thin metal plates are riveted.
A triangular recess is provided in the middle of the base. Thanks to it, the marker can be moved along a stretched cord, which guarantees accurate marking.
Marker (I. Mikhailov)It is intended both for sowing radishes and carrots, and for marking the area for tomatoes and cucumbers. The craftsman based the invention on wooden slats 50 - 60 mm wide (15 - 30 mm thick and 130 and 200 cm long). He planed them with a planer, shaping them into a wedge, and then connected them with 2 short (proportional to the spacing) transverse bars. Before starting agricultural work, the gardener puts the structure on the bed, lightly presses on it with his foot - and furrows 20-30 mm deep appear in the soil. The innovator determines the location of the future plant as follows: he lays a pre-marked pipe with a diameter of 76.2 mm on the site. Its length corresponds to the size of the site.
Marker (N. Semenov)The inventor passed a steel bar (diameter 12 mm) through metal pipe(length 30 and outer diameter 6 cm). At the ends of the homegrown axle, he planted a bearing.
To the same axis, the gardener attached 2 curved plates forming "horns". A second pipe is inserted between their ends, but already 120 cm long (through the ears of the plates and the lower end of the second pipe, for greater strength of the connection, 2 rows of holes with a diameter of 8 mm were drilled. Mounting bolts M8 were inserted into them). Depending on the desired row spacing, from 3 to 7 disks (outer diameter 100 and inner diameter 60 mm) are put on a shaft rotating in a horizontal plane. The thickness of the disks is 10 mm, their outer edge is sharpened into a cone). In order to facilitate the movement of the marker from above, a rudder is inserted into the vertical pipe from children's bike.
Multi-row markerMade from a piece of thick plywood (or chipboard). At the base of the fixture, holes are drilled at the required intervals (in several rows). Wooden round pegs are driven into them, protruding from one side of the base by the required amount. The lower end of the pegs is sharpened. Handles are attached to 2 sides of the base.
Seeder-shoeThey use such an original device for sowing seeds of fairly large horticultural crops placed in a row at a step distance (or a multiple of a step). With it, you can even sow the seeds of some trees (for example, spruces), as well as corn and melons.
The device, shaped like a bird's beak, is attached to the heel of the boot with straps. Having taken a step, the gardener presses the "beak" of the seeder into the ground. It forms a hole. In this case, the lever touches the spring plate and turns. The "beak" opens - and the seeds fall into the ground.
A container with seeds is attached to the belt. It is connected to the "beak" with a flexible tube. But just throwing a seed into the ground is not enough: it needs to be watered and fed. For this purpose, another tube is brought to the “beak”, through which water or liquid fertilizer enters the hole.
cane seederEliminates constant tilting during sowing. For manufacturing, an old bicycle is suitable. A movable seed container is inserted into the vertical part of the handle. In the lower part of the device, a trapezoidal strap with a seed placement depth regulator and a soil compactor are riveted. Before work, seeds are poured into the container and deepened into the sling to the required depth (after setting the limiter). Then the "cane" is turned around its axis by 90 - 130 °, as a result of which a funnel-shaped nest is obtained. After that, the container is lifted, and the seeds rush into the chamber. Pushed through the slit with a finger required amount seeds in a tube.
Cane seeder. 1 - container for seeds, 2 - container fasteners, 3 - slot, 4 - chamber, 5 - container, 6 - tube, 7 - strap, 8 - soil compactor, 9 - depth regulator.
Three-wheeled seeder (M. Krasilnikov)
The craftsman fitted 3 wheels to the seeder: the rear one was from a children's bicycle (300 mm in diameter), the front wheels (on the same axle) were from a baby stroller. On a frame bent in the form of the letter “P” made of strip iron (40 × 350 mm in size) (525 mm long and 115 mm wide), a box of plywood with a plexiglass cover is placed and pulled with 2 bolts. This is a seed bin. Inside the box on 2 plain bearings, in a horizontal plane, the main part of the apparatus is mounted - a shaft carved from birch and varnished, shaped like a spool for threads. One of 3 replaceable tapes made of a leather belt is inserted into its cavity, in which hemispherical depressions are burned out (their number depends on the area of crops, and the diameter is 10 - 8 mm). When the seeder moves across the plowed area, the bicycle chain stretched between the rear wheel sprocket to the seeding coil rotates the latter. The cells of the tape in the hopper capture the seeds and send them to the funnel (the diameter of the funnel itself is 56 mm, the outlet tube is 28 mm).
The seeder is three-wheeled. a - seeder diagram (side and top view), b - seeding coil diagram (top and side view); 1 - driving wheel, 2 - seeding unit, 3 - frame, 4 - marking wheel, 5 - funnel, 6 - coulter, 7 - seed tube, 8 - coil, 9 - handle, 10 - sprocket, 11 - chain.
From there, the seeds fall by gravity first into the coulter, and then into the furrow.
The simplest planterUnder it, you can adapt any (fortunately, they now come in different volumes) pharmacy vial. Seeds are poured into it, the neck is plugged with a cork, into which the hollow thickened end of the goose feather is passed. Before sowing the seeds, the vial is tilted and gently shaken. Seeds lie down in the furrow prepared in advance with an even line.
Simple crutchDesigned for planting potatoes and other crops. It is made from a cutting of arbitrary length. A bar 170 - 180 mm long is nailed across the handle, at a distance of 250 mm from the sharpened end.
One person makes holes in certain places, and the other lowers nodules into them.
The crossbar on the handle prevents the spike from going deeper into the soil than required, which ensures the same depth of the planting holes.
The transverse part of it has a length of 130 - 200 mm and a width of about 100 mm, is made in the form of a shuttle and is mounted on the handle. The device is convenient to make grooves for sowing seeds.
Cabbage crutchUse when planting cabbage seedlings and other vegetable crops. The crutch consists of a handle, pointed on one side, 1.25 m long and a handle, which is also made of wood. The landing process, like using a simple crutch, requires a partner. The first, walking along the ridge, makes holes in the soil, and the second plants seedlings in them.
Irrigation tools and devices
If watering the ridges can be handled either with a conventional watering can or an improved one, then in the garden this operation turns out to be quite laborious. And there is no escape: trees and shrubs also want to "drink". So let's talk about sprinklers. All home-made irrigation systems have a significant drawback: too much water consumption. In light of this, gardeners are interested in drip irrigation. Such a device is more often used when there are few fruit trees on the site.
watering cans
For decades, the design of a fairly simple representative of gardening equipment has remained virtually unchanged. Nevertheless, skilled gardeners are constantly modernizing what, it would seem, cannot be modernized.
Watering can-telescopeIn a garden watering can, the watering net nozzle is usually located just above the handle. A piece of metal (or rubber) pipe lengthens the standard "nose". It is much more convenient to work with an improved watering can: the “telescope” delivers life-giving moisture to the edge of even the widest beds.
Usually, during storage and transportation, the spout of the watering can requires additional space. Yes, and it interferes with scooping up water from the barrel. The watering can will become more convenient during operation and storage when the spout and body are connected with a corrugated rubber tube. A cable is tied to the mesh nozzle and secured to the latch. So that the watering can does not rust from the remaining moisture, a hole is made in its body (closer to top cover). It is better to store an improved watering can upside down.
A handle is soldered to the watering can in the form of an arc. The quality of watering will be significantly improved by a transverse tubular nozzle.
It replaces the standard grid. It is much more convenient to work with such a watering can, and besides, after modernization, its working grip will increase.
Watering can with dividerThe water divider, as a rule, is put on the nozzle of the watering can. In this case, the fit of the branch pipe and the divider in relation to the branch pipe of the watering can is made internal.
Watering can with divider. 1 - body of the watering can, 2 - branch pipe with a baffle collar, 3 - divider.
The seating surface of the branch pipe divider can be both conical and cylindrical. The divider is inserted into the pipe until it stops. Thanks to this improvement, the water seeping into the gap between the nozzle and the divider is directed along the water baffle to the irrigation zone. The watering device reduces water consumption and increases the convenience of using the watering can. When applying liquid fertilizer, the divider is removed, while the solution flows through the nozzle. The shoulder prevents the fertilizer from flowing out of the fertilizing area through the nozzle and watering can.
Rational watering canA standard garden watering can, with 2 handles (top and rear) on a cylindrical body, is extremely inconvenient. Firstly, you have to carry a full watering can, holding your hand out, which is quite tiring. Secondly, watering with such a watering can is also inconvenient: the center of gravity shifts as it decreases, and it is impossible to intercept hands, since their position is fixed.
A watering can with an oval body and a curved handle is much more rational. The design will allow you to occupy only one hand, and as the center of gravity changes, it can be intercepted. Such a watering can is more convenient to wear than a cylindrical one, and the arc-shaped handle runs along the body.
The most important advantage of this design is the following: the gardener can water the ridges with 2 watering cans at once, which significantly reduces the time for plant care. The capacity of the oval watering can is different. Make a watering can from galvanized sheet iron. A hoop is attached to the oval body for strength. Its edge should be slightly below the bottom of the watering can. Well, if the spout is 1.5 times higher than the body. This will make it possible to water plantings located at a great distance.
Original nozzle for the watering canAnd you can make an original nozzle for the watering can. To do this, a piece of steel or roofing sheet is cut and bent. With its help of such a nozzle it is convenient to water the ridges with liquid fertilizer. At the same time, the mesh of the watering can does not become clogged, and the jet from the nozzle turns out to be fan-shaped.
As a rule, gardeners are not satisfied with 1 - 2 types of crops grown on the site. And different plants require different care. The same applies to such a simple, at first glance, operation as watering. There may be only one watering can on the farm, but in order to increase its versatility, you must at least have a similar set of nozzles.
A set of accessories for a watering can. 1 – general form, 2 - nozzle with a sieve facing upwards, for watering tall plants, 3 - nozzle with a sieve facing forward, for watering plants of medium height, 4 - nozzle for watering with a fertilizer solution, 5 - nozzle for watering into holes, 6 - adaptation to watering can for small-drop watering.
homemade sprayer
Simple and reliable fixture. Air is supplied to it using a hand pump. The device is mounted at the end of a pole 1.5 - 2 m long and is used to process the crowns of fruit trees.
They take the most ordinary canister (with a capacity of 10 - 12 liters). A fitting from a bicycle chamber is pressed into the handle, to which a hose 1.5 m long is connected. A hose with a spray is brought to the bottom of the container. Its end is attached to a pole. When using such a device, safety precautions must be strictly observed. It is strictly forbidden to spray trees with pesticides without using personal protective equipment.
Homemade sprayer. 1 - rail-holder, 2 - tap, 3 - canister, 4 - pump.
Universal sprayer
Water in the garden for spraying plants is taken from the main. For this, from her garden plot make a tap and put a stopcock and a check valve on it. From pipes with a diameter of 15 - 20 mm, several taps are cut in to parse water and connect hoses with a sawing tip. The higher the water pressure in the network, the easier the work of the gardener.
Spraying scheme (a) and plant nutrition device (b). 1 - main water supply, 2 - outlet, 3 - stopcock, 4 - tap for water analysis, 5 - pipeline, 6 - hose, 7 - tip, 8 - check valve.
For spraying use a proportional dispenser. Its principle of operation is quite simple. Reducing the diameter of a pipe (for example, at a faucet) causes a drop in water pressure. By inserting a container with chemicals into this place, by turning the tap valve, the concentration of the solution used for spraying is changed.
Plants in the area are sprayed clean water by connecting the hose to the nearest faucet. Various dispensers are used to feed plantings or protect them from pests. They are installed either on the pipeline or next to the tip.
A tank with a solution is also attached directly near the tip (Fig. b). As a rule, all devices are made from improvised materials. In this case, the dispenser is old barrel And plastic bag, the dimensions of which slightly exceed the dimensions of the barrel. Scheme of work: the barrel is disconnected from the water supply using a 3-way tap. Pour the solution into the bag through the funnel. He, through the drain valve, displaces water from the barrel.
Upon filling the bag, the tap is opened, and now the water displaces the solution.
Poil RingCraft similar device is not difficult: it is enough to have a rubber hose (about 10 m long) and a tee. Small holes are made in the hose at an equal distance from each other. After that, the hose is rolled into a ring (1 m in diameter) around the trunk fruit tree, and the ends are put on a tee connected through a tap to the water supply. The pressure is given such that trickles of water are immediately absorbed into the ground without forming puddles.
An almost ideal way of watering: using it, you do not need to dig an irrigation groove, which can harm the roots, or loosen the ground: a crust does not form on it during ring irrigation.
And most importantly, the water is evenly distributed under the crown, while not flooding the neck of the tree.
Mechanized water intake from the sourceAll “landowners” know that mechanized water intake for irrigation is associated with high energy costs, and therefore financial ones. Therefore, the ability to reduce energy costs naturally attracts many gardeners.
It is not at all difficult to make a wind-powered water intake installation. To use wind energy, a wooden riser is placed right above the well. From above, a rod with an impeller is attached to it. It turns out the drive shaft. In the well itself, below the water level, a driven shaft is installed. The drive is carried out using a porous rubber belt.
The impeller, under the influence of the wind, rotates and sets the belt in motion. He draws water from the well. Water is squeezed out of the belt using a special device (it is similar to wringing out an old washing machine) and it enters the water tank. The upper shaft with the impeller is mounted on an annular float so that it can turn in the direction of the wind. The belt is made from almost any material, but it must quickly absorb water.
Water supply with the help of wind. 1 - driven shaft, 2 - foam rubber belt, 3 - water collectors, 4 - annular float, 5 - drive shaft, 6 - shaft, 7 - impeller.
Automatic watering
A platform is built on a free patch and a container is installed on it. Its dimensions depend on the size of the garden (can be from 1 to 10 m 3). At the bottom of the tank there is a valve for water release.
In the neighborhood with a large capacity, they put a smaller one - a kind of water clock. It contains a 40 mm thick foam float (or a rubber ball). Water clocks are equipped with an outlet device into which special gaskets are inserted. Such inserts (up to 10 pieces) are made of aluminum. The holes in the inserts vary in diameter: from 0.1 mm to 1.4 mm. Each hole corresponds to a specific watering interval. If it is permissible to pour any water into a large container, then only clean water into a small one, otherwise the water clock will become clogged. Water from them, through a calibrated hole, seeps out gradually. At the same time as the water level, the float also drops.
Device for automatic watering . 1 - rod, 2 - rack, 3 - microswitch, 4 - switch.
When it reaches a certain position, a simple device (a lever with a weight and a cable) will pull the large capacity valve up. The drain hole will open and water will flow through the pipes to the plants.
They make holes at certain distances. Water seeps through them, moistening the soil.
When the water is poured out, the boom is lowered and the microswitch turns on the electric motor. The tank fills up, the boom rises and closes the switch on the rack.
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