The walls of the frame house are made of isoplast. Isoplat plates for exterior cladding of a house - material properties and installation technology

For interior insulation wooden houses thermal insulation boards ISOPLAAT (Izoplat) - a universal solution. This vapor-permeable environmentally friendly sound- thermal insulation material suitable for cladding horizontal and vertical surfaces. Plates are produced in size 2700x1200mm, thickness 10/12/25 mm. The surface of one side of the sheet is smooth (for finishing).

Installation of ISOPLAAT boards inside the house

When installing ISOPLAAT boards inside the house on vertical surfaces, it is necessary to install braces between the frame posts. Braces give rigidity to the entire wall structure. Plates are attached to the crate or to wooden bases using brackets, on concrete or brick structures - using liquid nails or glue. The adhesive is water based (formaldehyde free).

Thermal insulation boards in 1 or 2 layers are installed on the walls and ceiling, which can also serve as a supporting structure for soft thermal insulation (ecowool). The finishing of surfaces sheathed with ISOPLAAT boards can be any: wallpapering, painting, sheathing decorative panels ISOPLAT. It is important to use vapor-permeable materials (primers, adhesives) when preparing surfaces, otherwise the plate will lose its ability to pass vapor.

Due to the porous structure of the boards, they can absorb moisture without changing the original geometric dimensions and losing properties. Well suited for use in country houses non-permanent residence. They do not crack and retain their properties in unheated houses, subject to constant ventilation.

Floor underlay device

A special underlay is placed on the floor for ISOPLAAT laminate, which has the same characteristics as the heat-insulating board. It can be used both for repairing old and for laying new floors. Levels subfloor surfaces. Thicknesses: 4 / 5 / 7 mm. It can be used under any floor as a substrate, but is more often used under floating parquet or laminate flooring.

The ISOPLAAT substrate withstands mechanical loads up to 20 tons per m2 without deforming.

The substrate is laid on the rough floor, retreating from the wall 10 mm. Can be applied with glue. From above arrange a floor covering.

Installation of ISOPLAAT thermal insulation boards using a substrate

The main advantages of the internal cladding of the contour of the house with ISOPLAAT (Isoplat) slabs:

• Fully vapor permeable design, which allows the walls to "breathe" and creates a healthy microclimate in the room. In order for the walls to pass steam, it is necessary to use vapor-permeable materials for finishing and exterior cladding of the house;
• Additional sound and heat insulation walls, floors, ceilings;
• For soft insulation, they serve as a supporting retaining structure;
• Align the sheathed surfaces;
• Light weight, easy to transport, carry and install;
• Absolutely environmentally friendly material. For insulation and decoration, you can also use eco-friendly materials to create completely environmentally friendly structures;

The house can be fully sheathed with environmentally friendly ISOPLAAT vapor-permeable panels, both outside and inside, while providing additional thermal insulation. Then moisture and condensation will not accumulate in the construction of walls, ceilings and floors, while maintaining the original properties of the insulation and wooden elements in the structures.

The modern range of materials for construction allows not only to build new house behind a short time, but also to modernize the existing one, making it a warm cottage. Today, this possibility is provided by finishing, sound and heat insulating boards, the use of which is due to their outstanding characteristics. One of the best representatives of this group of materials is isoplat for house exterior cladding, which has a number of undeniable advantages over competitors.

Isoplaat is a soft fiber board, MDVP for short. It is made from soft fibers. Before a tree becomes a material for use, it goes through several stages of processing. First, the raw material is scalded with steam and softened in heated water. After that, they grind, get a liquid fibrous mass and pour it onto a conveyor belt. Vacuum pumps remove excess moisture from the wood "carpet", subject it to hot pressing and dry it in chambers. The last stage - the material is cut into standard sheets from 4 to 50 mm.

Manufacturers claim that they do not use glue. The fibers in the plates connect the natural polymer - lignin . It is found in softwood and is activated by intense heat and pressure..

The main difference between Isoplaat and fiberboards of other brands is the presence of a smooth

side suitable for finishing. Thanks to this, Isoplaat is considered the most profitable alternative unlike drywall, plywood and OSB.

In addition, Isoplaat panels have the ability to absorb moisture up to 20 percent of their own volume. In this case, the plates do not lose any specifications, no geometric shapes. And since the panels are made of wood fiber, they are also good and take out moisture and thus provide an optimal microclimate.

In addition, to undeniable advantages Isoplaat can be attributed to:

• high-quality sound insulation provided by the porous fibrous structure of the panel;
• high heat capacity, which determines the ability to regulate the temperature in the room;
• excellent acoustic characteristics ensuring the absence of echo;
• ease of processing - in the plate you can easily screw a self-tapping screw or hammer a nail, and the canvas itself can be easily sawn with a hacksaw, circular saw or electric.

It is worth noting that Isoplaat is not without its drawbacks:

1. Due to the high water absorption coefficient, it is impossible to store the boards outdoors - they must be covered with a dense polyethylene film without fail.
2. In addition, the panels are not very resistant to mechanical stress, so Isoplate sheets can become unusable due to any pressure, impact or fall. In this case, the broken panel either needs to be cut or completely replaced - and this is an additional financial cost.

Natural wood slabs are great for letting steam through from the inside, preventing insulation from sagging and eliminating the need for intensive ventilation inside the home combined with heat loss. The full thickness windshields are impregnated with paraffin, making them waterproof. Thus, these plates prevent wall moisture, insulation shrinkage, and mold.

Isoplaat sheets are used for roof insulation as well as for wind protection of building walls. In addition, there are plates for internal thermal and sound insulation of rooms. Thin sheets (7 mm) have shown themselves well as a substrate for floor coverings(parquet, laminate).

Isoplats for interior wall decoration are also used for outdoor work (wind protection of walls, roof insulation), it is treated with liquid paraffin to improve moisture-resistant properties. On the wall frame is placed before installation exterior finish(siding, blockhouse). On the roof, Isoplaat is laid before installing metal roofing, slate, sheet metal or tiles. Roofing and windproof slabs have a "tenon cutter" butt edge. This increases the tightness of the connections and simplifies installation..

The production of panels is carried out according to the technology, which provides for pressing and further drying of wood waste. Don't be intimidated by the word "waste" because the baseboard is the chips, the wood chips that are left over after the boards have been processed. This raw material is pumped into the carpet and processed with water, and then falls under a powerful press. The need for high pressure is due to the fact that plates with the correct density are formed under the press. In addition, a special substance is produced for gluing chips together.

The panel itself is a porous material that can be used for various purposes, including to increase the level of thermal or sound insulation.

As a rule, isoplat boards from wood-based materials contain chemical components designed to improve consumer properties material. One of the main advantages of Isoplaat panels is the absence of harmful or toxic mixtures, including adhesives or resins, even with an acceptable emission class. Chip gluing is carried out due to the resin, which is released from the wood under the influence of the press. Thus, the material is completely safe for health, which allows it to be used for both exterior and interior decoration.

The choice of panels from the Estonian manufacturer is very wide. It can be used in seasonal buildings (for example, country houses and cottages), as well as in ordinary high-rise apartments. In some cases, the plate is mounted together with sound-reflecting sheets, which ultimately increases the level of noise absorption, as well as the insulation of the building. Roof insulation is also often made from this material. If necessary, Isoplaat can be used as a base for parquet or laminate.

They produce a very wide range of products, among the main types of which are:

1. Wind protection boards are ideal insulation for finishing works performed outside the building. For their impregnation, substances such as paraffin are used, which provides good level moisture resistance. attics, and frame houses from wooden beams will be completely protected from various external factors if you use Isoplaat.
2. Isoplaat insulation boards have found application in rafter installations under tiles. It is designed to heat the roof, muffle the sound from rain, hail and other precipitation. As in other plates of this manufacturer, paraffin is used as an impregnation to give the necessary indices in terms of moisture resistance.
3. Substrate under the laminate - these panels are used in interior decoration apartments as an additional layer of sound insulation and noise insulation. The panels allow you to correct some of the defects of the rough floor, completely disguising them. This eliminates the need for a screed, which greatly simplifies the entire flooring installation process.
4. Isoplaat insulation - also used in interior decoration. Perfectly protects the room from the cold from the street, has excellent sound insulation. Great alternative simple drywall. Another advantage of insulation: thanks to the flat surface, you can immediately paste the wallpaper on top of it.

The Estonian company delighted many consumers by releasing qualitatively new products - plates called Izoteks, which are one of the varieties of Isoplaat. Key Feature products is the presence of a decorative layer, thanks to which the plates act as the final finishing material on the ceiling and walls. Isoplat for exterior cladding of a house has a very affordable price in Moscow.

Exterior cladding with Isoplaat boards

Isoplaat slabs for the exterior cladding of a house are an excellent option that allows you to solve several problems at once: provide additional thermal insulation and sound insulation of the house, eliminate the appearance of cold bridges and drafts. The plates are vapor-permeable, that is, they pass water vapor, which makes it possible not to retain moisture in the insulation, so the insulation does not lose its thermal insulation properties, and wooden structures do not rot and do not accumulate mold. In addition, the design without ventilation points moves the dew point out of the insulation to the outside in the Isoplaat sheets, which also keeps the insulation dry.

The exterior cladding of old log houses with slabs is a universal solution for providing vapor-permeable thermal insulation, the wood does not rot in such structures, but “breathes”.

The design of the wall cladding makes it possible to exclude the installation of ventilation and windproof films: after laying the insulation, two layers of Isoplaat are immediately installed - heat-insulating and windproof. Thus, we get not only a wall covering with an environmentally friendly and absolutely vapor-permeable material, but also additional thermal insulation.

Exterior walls can be plastered with thin layer systems (but the manufacturer has no test reports). In order for the structure to retain its respiratory properties, it is necessary to use vapor-permeable plasters. Siding can also be used as exterior decorative cladding..

Installation of plates on the walls of the building is carried out mainly in a vertical position. That is, in the direction of the length of the plate.

The frame technology provides for the installation of frame racks with a step of 60 cm. Thus, the Isoplaat plate will be located between three pillars. This makes it easy to attach and there is no need for additional cutting sheets.

Windproof or heat-shielding panels are attached to the supporting base using self-tapping screws or nails. The first method is the most preferred, since damage to the plate can occur with a hammer blow. Therefore, when working with the material, it is recommended to use self-tapping screws and a screwdriver.

Since Isoplaat is soft material, the screw is less than 1 cm from the end of the blade. If the fastener is located closer to the slab slab, it may delaminate or crumble.

If plaster is applied over Isoplaat, the board must be fastened in 15 cm increments to each frame post. But this method is rarely used, since the ventilated facade is traditionally mounted above windshields. Therefore, additional fixation is carried out using wooden blocks, which are packed on top of the slabs used for the facade. In this case, Isoplaat is enough to fix only three places on each post.

Construction clips with a length of at least 32 mm can be used to fasten the panels. With a thickness of 12 mm, the optimal length of nails and screws is 40 mm. For panels with a thickness of 25 mm, fasteners with a length of 70-75 mm are used. For ease of installation, you can use homemade accessories. If you are not sure, use a bar to mark the attachment points of the plates, on which they are marked every 15 cm. The panel is attached to the beam of the lower frame in the place where the Isoplaat canvas is to be installed..

Plates can be mounted vertically or horizontally. Fastening of parts is carried out directly on the wooden racks of the frame. The position of the racks is 0.6 m. The plates are installed with gaps of 2 mm. If the connection of the panels does not fall on the post, then such places are strengthened by installing an additional post or a horizontal core (horizontal ones are fixed in a vertical scroll with inclined plates attached to the posts).

For fastening, galvanized nails with wide hats (“bugs”) or professional paper clips are used.

Fastening is carried out:

• for all vertical frame frames, step - 10-15 cm;
• to horizontal additional elements after 10 cm;
• in accordance with the additional marking in the center of the sheets with a step of 28 cm.

The fastener must be installed at a distance of ≥ 10 mm from the edges of the sheets.

Not later than one month after completion installation work it is recommended to use an external shell device. A ventilated gap of 20 to 50 mm is required between the skin and the windproof plate of the formations to allow water vapor to escape from the wall.

For brick, aerated concrete or wooden walls installation is carried out without gaps and fasteners using special adhesive or shaped dowels. The surface of the plates is made smooth on one side and wavy on the inside.

Finishing doors and window openings performed only from solid sheets, the presence of joints in these places is unacceptable.

As exterior finish technologies of ventilated facades (Komak Plat, block house), siding or varieties of vapor-permeable facade plasters(for example, BAUMIT). It is worth noting that you need to use special joints for priming, a conventional primer will damage the surface of the plates.

Looking at the statistics of visiting the “Finnish house”, I noticed that people are actively interested in reviews of Izoplat windproof plates and in general about these plates :)

I have something to say about this and quite a lot.

Let's start with the fact that the Estonian plates Isoplaat (Isoplat) are MDVP (soft fibreboard) also known as softboard (softboard). Such material is produced not only by Isoplat, but unfortunately, it is the only one that is more or less widely represented on the market of St. Petersburg and a little less - in Moscow (at the time of writing).

At one time, the production of MDVP began in Russia under the Softboard brand (woodway company), but without having time to really start, in 2008, production was curtailed and, apparently, they do not plan to resume.

It's a pity. Since, in principle, MDVP material is very interesting and good.

But back to Isoplat. There is a substrate for laminate, heat-insulating boards, roofing and windproof. By and large, they are all one and the same. The only difference is in size and in the fact that windproof and roofing boards are impregnated with paraffin to give them hydrophobic properties.

The material itself is a wood "wool" pressed and fastened (according to official versions) among themselves with a natural adhesive contained in cellulose - lignin. Therefore, the material can be called "environmentally friendly".

There is some craftiness of the manufacturer here, because it is quite difficult to make a plate with similar characteristics without binders, only due to lignin. It would either be brittle (like pellets) or fall apart when wet and then dry. Therefore, I am 90% sure that there is still a binder, although manufacturers carefully hide its name and presence at all. According to indirect data, it may be synthetic latex. Although it does not prevent the product from being called environmentally friendly.

Of the advantages of the material - a high degree of sound insulation (although in my opinion this is not so important, given the small thickness), as well as high thermal insulation (the coefficient of thermal conductivity at the level of modern heaters), high vapor permeability, and also, oddly enough - his "softness"

Isoplat - hard board or soft board?

The softness of isoplating is a changeable thing.

if you look closely, you can see the “belly” on some sheets, like a wave

However, this “belly” partially disappears when the sheet dries.

In addition, after monitoring the information and talking with various knowledgeable people, I found out that the situation with the “belly” is typical for a 12mm sheet. With 24mm, this no longer happens.

Example 6

Dry isoplat is perfectly cut with a regular knife with replaceable blades. Wet cut is very difficult. Rather, the plate begins to tear, and not cut. It is very difficult to cut a wet slab with a knife.

Total:

Actually what can be said? The softness of isoplating is directly dependent on humidity. The wetter the material, the softer it is. But at the same time, it dries instantly and restores its original properties. In this regard, it is preferable to use a sheet of 24 mm rather than 12 mm - which, frankly, is quite “snotty”.

Does windproof isoplating stiffen the carcass?

One of the popular questions on the forums is whether isoplat gives rigidity to the frame and whether it can be used without jibs. Opinions are different.

I will express my own - yes, you can use it without jibs. But - 12mm only for a 1-storey building, if for a 2-storey building, then 24mm. In general, the question of the need for jibs together with isoplats is quite specific and largely depends on the specific wall design.

Why do I think so? Firstly, while I was making the roof, and the frame was standing with temporary braces, some “staggering” was felt. After sheathing with a 12mm slab and removing temporary braces - no more.

Moreover, the box without internal walls, under the roof and only with a sheathing of 12mm isoplastic, it stood quite calmly from autumn until next summer. Although there was enough snow in winter, and a couple of times there was even a gale.

It must also be understood that isoplating is not the only element that gives rigidity to the frame. In the future, interior decoration, exterior, etc. will be added. I call this the arrow-bundle principle. One arrow is easy to break, a bunch is gone.

So it is with the rigidity of the frame. Perhaps just a 12mm isoplat will not be enough. But in general, in combination with other layers of the wall, each of which contributes, the rigidity will be sufficient.

In addition, in my opinion, no matter how paradoxical it sounds, but the softness of the windproof Isoplaat gives rigidity to the structure.

The fact is that due to its softness - the windproof plate is very tightly pressed against the racks.

Harder boards (OSB, DSP, etc.) will not be pressed precisely because they are rigid. Thus, it turns out that MDVP has a much better and denser contact area with the frame and “adhesion” with it than more rigid boards.

Therefore, my conclusion is that in terms of rigidity, it is quite possible to use 12-24mm isoplates without jibs. But this will depend on the number of storeys of the house, the windiness of the area and other layers of the wall.

Is it possible to leave isoplats open for the winter?

Another popular question. Officially - the manufacturer writes something about 3 months. Unofficially - it happens for years, in the same Estonia. By and large, in terms of strength, nothing will happen to the stove if you leave it for the winter.

But there is an interesting nuance with which I have, let's say, exclusive experience.

I sheathed the house at the end of August, when there were heavy rains, high atmospheric humidity and other delights. After a couple of weeks, I began to notice the appearance of black dots on the sheets, very unpleasantly resembling "blackness" - mold that appears on boards and some plate materials. Photos taken in winter

Curiously, I installed a couple of sheets already in November, when I mothballed the house for the winter. So on these sheets, there were an order of magnitude fewer black dots.

Moreover, there were strange places with stains, where there was a direct hit of moisture, and in the center of the stains - the plate was completely clean. And the points themselves are purely superficial.

Like a blur. If you pick up the surface layer a little, everything is clean under it.

On the right - the stove installed in November, it is almost clean. On the left - installed in August. The photo was taken at the end of spring, that is, more than six months later

Moreover, at its lowest point, the wall was covered with snow all winter. So when the snow melted, all the “blackness” disappeared with it and did not appear again.

the blackness was "washed away" by the melting snow

As you can understand, this situation really stressed me out, so I launched a whole investigation into this matter, including contacting the manufacturer and the dealer, using all the connections and channels available to me.

Unfortunately, I did not get a clear answer from anyone. There is an opinion that it still turned out to be not mold, but the release of a certain paint pigment, under the influence of humidity. Because windproof boards are specially painted (this very green color) so that they can be distinguished from ordinary boards.

This version is supported by the strange nature of the “blurs” and the fact that in the last photo you can clearly see how a dark stripe passes over the nail head. In addition, all blackness was exclusively on the outer, painted part of the slabs.

On the other hand, do not forget that my site is practically in a swamp and given the constant high humidity, even those things that, in theory, should not mold, were often covered with mold and blackness - for example, pieces of fsf plywood.

In the end, just in case, before installing the imitation timber, just in case, I walked over all the plates with an FBS antiseptic

I can also say that the “colleagues” who also used windproof isoplaat on their houses and left them for a long period without external protection, nothing like this was noticed. Or it was, but in very small, local areas.

How to fasten and cut wind protection plates?

• Nails with wide caps (sheet) (40-70mm)
• Staples (35-60mm)

For 12mm slabs, fastener pitch is 10cm at the edges and 20 in the center. For 24mm - 20 at the edges and 30 in the center.

I used 40mm roofing nails. In principle, it is normal, but there are a couple of nuances.

Not all nails are equally useful - in the photo below, nails from different batches, both were sold as "galvanized". Here's what happened to them in six months

Good roofing nails are for some reason a very expensive item. Even if you buy in bulk.

The number of fasteners on a 12mm sheet is depressing. Both in terms of money and time. It took me almost 3 days to fasten all the plates, and basically it was just stupid waving with a hammer.

Therefore, I think that the best way is to fasten the plates with a pneumatic or electric stapler, a 40-50mm staple with a wide “back”.

In addition, I already wrote that I fixed the slabs when it was wet and the slabs “swollen”.

In the spring, the slab dried up, the geometry changed and the slab around the fasteners broke in several places.

If you look closely, on the right sheet the plate is broken around the fasteners

Hence the moral

1. Fasten with staples - faster and most likely more reliable
2. If you attach a “wet” sheet - do not leave a gap between the plates, it will appear when the sheet dries
3. Don't fasten the slab too close to the edge

You can cut tiles with anything. You can use a circular saw. But I didn't like it. A lot of nasty fine wood dust.

I cut with an ordinary construction knife with replaceable blades. 12mm sheet cuts amazingly, although there are a couple of "buts". First, the blades dull very quickly. Secondly, a dry leaf is well cut. Wet, starts to sag.

Which wind protection boards to choose?

Given the rather low cost, the question often arises of which plates to choose?

My opinion is that 24mm is best. They are more stable in size, they are easier to attach, they will give more rigidity to the frame. 12mm is an "economy option" that has certain disadvantages.

You can try a more labor-intensive, but slightly cheaper option than a 24 mm plate. The first layer is to put a simple heat-shielding plate (it is cheaper), the second is a windproof one. This will save on the cost of the material, but not much.

But it is possible to block the joints of the first with a second layer, obtaining a more reliable design.

In addition, you can splurge on roofing sheets (now called universal). They have a "thorn groove" that allows them to be mounted horizontally, without being tied to the pitch of the racks and the dimensions of the plates. Which is important as there will be less waste. The boards are stacked one after the other in a laminated manner. The segment of the last in the first row is placed first in the second and so on. A thorn groove - does not give cracks at the joints.

Conclusion

What can I say at the end of my "review"? Would I use MDVP again - definitely yes. For me, this is the ideal material for the outer skin of the frame. The only downside is the price.

Indeed, in normal countries, it costs 1.5-2 times cheaper than ours.

Would I use Isoplaat if there were alternatives on the MDF market? Here is not a fact. I came across a Finnish plate Leon - subjectively it was less loose and more rigid than isoplastic. Unfortunately, supplies to our market were local and quickly stopped.

In particular, the Steico Universal cooker. What is its difference? Firstly, it is again denser than isoplats. Secondly, Steico Universal has a smaller sheet format and an excellent “thorn groove”, which allows it to be mounted like a laminate, without bothering at all with the plate joints getting on the racks and with a minimum amount of trimmings. A small sheet facilitates the installation process itself.

Installation of ISOPLAT heat and sound insulation boards on walls and ceilings

Requirements:

• ISOPLATE sheets are used for finishes, alignment, raise soundproofing And thermal insulation in rooms with dry and normal humidity levels.
• Installation must be carried out during the finishing works, i.e. after all "wet" processes are completed, which can significantly increase the humidity in the room. Electrical and plumbing work has also been completed.
• Works should be carried out in dry and normal conditions of humidity.
• Before installation, ISOPLATE sheets should be kept for 1-2 days in the same room in order to equalize the humidity. Put the sheets vertically, place gaskets for air access and avoid the occurrence of sheet curvature.
• If during installation on a frame structure made of a wooden beam (on a crate) there is a horizontal joint of two sheets, then their fastening and joining should be carried out on a horizontal bar (mortgage). Adjacent horizontal joints must be vertically offset relative to each other.
• When finishing the openings of windows and doors, do not allow the joining of sheets at the corners of the opening.
• Sheet ISOPLATE has one side smooth, the other wavy. Mounting is done with the smooth side facing out. Those. the smooth side of the thermal insulation wall panel goes under the finish.
• Ceiling sheathing with ISOPLATE sheets provides for mandatory fastening with nails in increments of 2 times more often than for a wall. The use of wide hats of the "bug" type is recommended. For the best soundproofing effect, a multilayer sheathing is recommended, for example, a GKL sheet is attached close to Isoplat, further supporting the ISOPLATE sheet and enhancing the insulating effect. See the Soundproofing section.
• The placement of electrical wiring in the space of the skin frame should exclude the possibility of damage to it by fasteners (nails, staples, etc.)

IMPORTANT! Do not prime the ISOPLAT slab with an ordinary primer! Useless and harmful!

Foam or glue is applied to the slab around the perimeter. A layer of glue with a thickness of at least 10 mm, foam in a zigzag pattern. Indentation from the edge 30 mm. Additionally, stripes are applied in the center parallel to the extreme ones with a step of 30 cm. Another way to apply glue is an "envelope", as in the photo.		Fix the sheet with a clamping device. Adjust the joining of the sheets using a level within 5 minutes.
Putty is applied to the previously deepened joint to a width of 50-60 mm. Then the reinforcing tape is laid and smoothed with a spatula while removing excess. Before finishing, prime the surface of the sheet with water-based paint. If the wallpaper is dense or ready to be painted, you can use wallpaper glue as a primer. Apply wallpaper paste twice.		Then the surface of the plates is pasted over with wallpaper. Apply glue liberally to the wallpaper.

The procedure for mounting the ISOPLATE slab on a vertical wooden frame (crate).

For the manufacture of a frame structure, a wooden beam with a section of at least 45x45 is used as a partition or sheathing of the base wall. The step of the frame racks depends on the thickness of the plate. Fastening is carried out with galvanized nails with a wide head or construction staples made of stainless steel or coated. The length of the fastener depends on the thickness of the plate. Along the perimeter of the sheet, nails are nailed every 100-150 mm, inside the sheet, every 300 mm. Indent from the edge of the sheet 10-20 mm.

Plate ISOPLAT 12 mm thick.

• The step of the frame racks (center-to-center distance) is 280 mm.
• The length of the nails is not less than 40 mm, the length of the staple is not less than 32 mm.

ISOPLATE plate 25 mm thick.

• The step of the frame racks (center-to-center distance) is 600 mm.
• The length of the nails is not less than 70 mm, the length of the staple is not less than 58 mm.

IMPORTANT! Do not prime the plate with a conventional primer!

The procedure for mounting the ISOPLATE slab to a stone (concrete, etc.) wall with glue. Frameless installation.

If the stone surface is sufficiently even, then you can do without the crate. Sheets of Isoplats are glued directly to the wall, due to which the interior space of the room is won.

A simple and quick way is polyurethane mounting foam (Macroflex type, etc.) or polyurethane sealant (Tytan Industry PU type, etc.).

Glue selection:

For experienced craftsmen, drywall adhesive (dry mix based on gypsum or cement, brand of your choice) or mineral wool adhesive (cement-based, for example, CERESIT ST 190 or BAUMIT StarKontakt).

The simplest and most effective way is polyurethane mounting foam (for example, MACROFLEX, PENOSIL, etc.).

Glue can be applied both on the wall and on the sheet. Depends on the adhesive manufacturer's instructions. For example, if the base is even, the adhesive is applied to the sheet in a 50 mm wide strip with a notched trowel around the perimeter and three rows inside the sheet. If the base is uneven, the adhesive is applied in a thick layer of at least 10 mm, as shown in the photo or on the wall with plaques.

Foam is applied to the sheet along the perimeter and three rows along the length inside the sheet. The distance between the rows of foam is approximately 30 cm. The distance from the edge of the sheet is 3 cm. The foam can also be applied in a zigzag pattern, as shown in the photo. For a sheet with a thickness of 12 mm, in order to prevent subsequent swelling of a thin sheet, wait a few minutes after applying the foam so that the foam expands as much as possible.

Then the ISOPLATE sheet is lifted, installed on 10-12 mm pads, pressed against the wall and leveled. The sheet must be pressed against the surface to be bonded for at least 15 minutes. It is recommended to additionally press the glued sheet to the wall with screws. At least 9 pcs. per sheet 3 in a row. Also, the screws will help to fit the joints of the two sheets. After the glue has dried, the screws can be unscrewed. Fill the voids in the joints with glue or foam to prevent the formation of cracks at the joints after puttying. When using glue or foam, it is important to follow the manufacturer's recommendations: types of surfaces to be glued, adhesion time, pressing time, etc.

Before the subsequent (finishing) finishing, it is necessary to wait for the complete drying of the sheet for at least 24 hours.

Attention! Usually the edge sheets on the pallet (applies to thin sheets 12 mm thick) may have slight surface distortions due to the high elasticity and natural properties of the wood. The sheet is easily straightened when mounted on a frame structure, or when laid on a floor or ceiling as an insulating absorbent layer in a multilayer structure in combination with rigid sheets, such as plasterboard. For gluing to the wall, it is recommended to slightly moisten such sheets with a hand sprayer, lay them on a solid, straight base or on the floor and press them down with a small load. Leave for 24 hours.

The procedure for mounting the ISOPLATE slab on the ceiling.

On the ceiling, Isoplat sheets are recommended to be mounted on a wooden frame or metal profile. The pitch of the posts and the length of the fasteners are the same as for mounting on a wooden frame, indicated above. The fastening step is twice as often as on a vertical frame (wall). Fasteners: wide-headed nails or bedbug-headed screws. Then, a GKL sheet is mounted on top of the Isoplat sheet. Further finishing of the GKL sheet is carried out in the usual manner. It is not recommended to glue the Isoplat sheet to the ceiling.

Preparation of ISOPLATE sheet for finishing.

Puttying joints is carried out using a reinforcing mesh ordinary putty (for example, the brand does not matter, but it is advisable to choose a ready-made one in plastic buckets, since there is an optimal amount of water). First, along the joints of the installed sheets, use sandpaper to make a recess of 2-3 mm and a width of 50-60 mm. The usual putty is applied in the joint area of ​​the sheets to the width produced, the reinforcing tape is laid along the joint and smoothed with a spatula while removing excess putty. Do not allow the putty to be completely squeezed out from under the tape. After the first layer of putty has dried (12-24 hours), a covering layer is applied. Recesses formed by nail heads or staples must also be puttied. After drying, the puttied surface is sanded and the entire surface is primed with water-based paint. The smooth surface of the ISOPLATE board is used for wallpapering, painting, and finishing with plaster. For best results in case of high surface quality requirements, usually, continuous finishing puttying is carried out. Then the surface prime with water-based paint. Further finishing of the puttied and primed surface is carried out according to the standard method.

Advice! A primer with water-based paint gives a white base for wallpaper. Plus: the brown dark background will not be visible through the wallpaper. Another plus: in the case of re-gluing the wallpaper, it will be easy to soak and remove the old wallpaper without damaging the surface of the plate. No need to re-sand.

Description of the installation of ISOPLATE sheets to schemes 1-5

1. Fasteners are used on a frame structure or partition made of wooden beams: galvanized nails with a wide hat or staples. The distance from the edge of the plate is 10-20 mm. The fastening pitch along the edge is 100-150 mm and in the center of the sheet - 280 mm.
2. ISOPLATE sheets are nailed to a wooden surface or stapled according to a scheme similar to fasteners on a wooden frame. The distance between the rows of fasteners is 300-400 mm.
3. Fasteners for ISOPLATE sheets 12 and 25 mm thick, respectively. Nails and staples.
4. For lining stone (concrete) walls with ISOPLATE sheets, polyurethane mounting foam (for example, MACROFLEX, PENOSIL) or plasterboard glue (for example, the brand does not matter) is used. The main wall to be lined must be smooth and dust-free (primed). The adhesive is applied to the reverse side of the boards at a distance of 30 mm from the edge of the board. Glue dots with a diameter of 50 mm are applied in the central part of the slab with a pitch of approximately 280 mm.
5. ISOPLATE sheets are nailed to a wooden wall (beam) in increments of 300-400 mm according to the same principle as to a wooden crate.

Alternative

The quality of the leveled surface and wallpapering depends on the qualifications of the repairman, therefore, in order to obtain a guaranteed result that does not depend on the qualifications of the master, save time and optimize the budget, we recommend using ISOTEX decorative panels. ISOTEX decorative panels have a tongue-and-groove side connection and are already pasted over with high-quality Finnish washable wallpaper at the factory using an industrial press.

Installation of sheets of the Scandinavian windproof plate ISOPLAT

The Scandinavian windproof plate ISOPLAAT is a sheet with a format of 2700x1200 mm. Thickness 12 or 25 mm. The edge of the sheet is straight.

ISOPLATE sheets are installed vertically to the frame structure of the wall (for example, the wall of a frame house from a 150x50 board or a crate on aerated concrete from a 50x50 mm beam). In this case, one sheet covers three vertical racks. The distance between the frame posts from their centers should be 600 mm (see drawing 1).

ISOPLATE sheets are nailed with galvanized nails or professional construction staples along the entire perimeter of the sheet: vertically to the frame posts, horizontally to the strapping elements or to the mortgages. And in the center of the sheet, where auxiliary markings are applied in the center on the painted side.

Horizontal joints of two sheets that do not fall on the strapping element are reinforced with a mortgage (board / beam at least 50x50 mm), to which the edges of the plates are nailed. The mortgage is installed on the inside of the frame structure between the vertical posts and is attached to them with metal corners. Plates are fastened using nails or staples. To facilitate installation, there is a longitudinal strip in the center of the sheet.

The height of the plinth must be at least 40 cm.

If a ventilated facade (lining, siding, etc.) is planned as a decorative wall cladding, it is recommended to install wooden bars or slats (battens) immediately after installing the slabs to give additional rigidity (as shown in the photo on the left, also pay attention to plinth height).

Wind protection boards should be covered with external facade cladding no later than one month after their installation. To ensure moisture exchange between the slab and the skin, an air (ventilated) gap 20-50 mm wide is created.

Mounting 12 mm wind protection plate

Galvanized nails with a wide head at least 40 mm long or staples at least 32 mm long are used (see drawing 3). The nailing distance from the edge of the slab slab must be at least 10 mm. Nails/staples along the edge of the slab are hammered at intervals of 100 mm and in the center of the slab at intervals of 200 mm (see drawing 4). Markings are applied in the center of the plate to facilitate fasteners. The consumption of nails is approximately 25 pieces/m 2 .

Mounting 25 mm wind protection plate

Galvanized nails with a wide head at least 70 mm long or staples at least 58 mm long are used (see drawing 3). The nailing distance from the edge of the slab must be at least 10 mm. Nails/staples are hammered along the edge of the slab with an interval of 100-150 mm and in the center of the slab with a pitch of 280 mm (see Fig. 5). Markings are applied in the center of the plate to facilitate fasteners. The consumption of nails is approximately 15 pieces/m 2 .

Mounting on the roof of the ISOPLAT universal plate tenon-groove on 4 sides 25 mm

In the roof structure, the universal ISOPLAT thorn-groove slab, in addition to the usual functions of wind and hydro protection, additionally performs seamless insulation over the entire area, insulation of cold bridges, directly wooden rafters, and most importantly for the attic - it provides effective sound insulation from precipitation, protecting the sleep of homeowners. Also, due to the high energy intensity, the stove protects the attic from summer overheating.

In the design of the roofing pie, the universal ISOPLATE thorn-groove board takes the place of the wind and waterproofing layer.

Work order

1. Fasten the boards directly to the rafters from the bottom up, in horizontal rows. Installation starts from the bottom row from left to right (Fig. 1). The spike looks up. One sheet must cover at least two rafters. At the end of the lining of the first row, the cut off piece of the outer slab goes to the beginning of the second row (Fig. 2). The vertical joints of adjacent rows are displaced with dressing (like brickwork).

2. Install the crate. The lathing is fastened through Isoplat to the rafters.

3. Further work is carried out in the usual manner, depending on the selected roofing material. Two typical schemes with flexible (soft) tiles and metal tiles are presented below.

Attention! Between the wind and hydroprotective layer and the roofing material (tiles), it is necessary to arrange a ventilated gap (air) to allow moisture to escape from the roof structure.

Table with values

Roof slope - at least 20 degrees

Distance between rafters - 600-700 mm

Ventilated gap - not less than 20 mm

Fasteners - Fe/Zn nail at least 3x70 mm

Indent from the edge - 35 mm (so as not to damage the tenon groove)

Fastening pitch - along the edge 100-150 mm, in the center 200 mm

Fastener consumption - 18 pcs/sheet

Sealing of extreme joints - bitumen-rubber tape, polyurethane sealant

Substrate for laminate ISOPLAT

Before installation, it is recommended to unpack the ISOPLATE substrate and keep it for a day in the same room where they will be installed in order for the humidity of the plate to equalize with that of the surrounding air. This will reduce the subsequent "play" of the plates after they are installed. To do this, the plates are installed on the end, and strips are installed between them to ensure air movement.

The substrate sheets are laid on the main surface (subfloor) to each other, and an expansion gap of 5-10 mm is left between the wall and the slabs. For this, cut off pieces of the substrate are suitable, which are removed after laying and fixing the plates. Between the plates it is necessary to leave a gap of 1-2 mm. If necessary (for example, under linoleum), sheets can be attached to the main surface either by gluing at several points, or with staples or nails.

The underlay is laid at an angle of 45° to the floor joints. This prevents the joints of the laminate or parquet from matching with the joints of the underlayment. The laminate is laid directly on the substrate sheets.

Decorative panels IZOTEX

Important! Installation of panels is carried out in dry rooms during the finishing work, after all the “wet” processes that can significantly increase humidity have been completed, electrical and plumbing wiring has been completed.

Since ISOTEX panels “breathe”, it is recommended to open the package and keep them indoors for 24 hours. For installation, you will need a square, a knife, a tape measure, a pencil, staples for a stapler and the actual construction stapler. For gluing to the walls, "liquid nails" mounting glue is used. If the ceiling or walls are made of wood, gypsum boards or concrete without significant curvature, ISOTEX panels are attached directly to the surface using glue or staples. If the surfaces (walls or ceiling) have large irregularities, a wooden crate is installed under the panels. The panels are easily cut with a sharp carpet knife along a metal ruler. Cut from the side of the decorative coating. Also, any woodworking tools are suitable for cutting: a jigsaw, a circular saw, etc.

IZOTEX wall panels with paper coating

Mounting on a crate

For the crate, wooden planks with a section of 19x44 mm are used. Planks must be installed in 290 mm increments (measured between the centers of the planks). The panels are fastened to the crate with staples 10-14 mm, intervals not more than 100 mm.

Glue mounting

Apply glue strips on the back side of the panel about 20 mm from the edges, and in the center of the panel - drops of glue every 200 mm. Press the panel against the wall slightly away from the adjacent panel and slide it sideways so that the adhesive surface is even.

Textile coated wall panels

Glue mounting

Install planks measuring 19x44 mm at 280 mm intervals (measured between the central parts of the planks). In the case of a flat wall, the panels can be fixed to the wall without a crate. Apply glue strips on the back side of the panel about 20 mm from the edges, and in the center of the panel - drops of glue every 200 mm. Press the panel against the wall slightly away from the adjacent panel and slide it sideways so that the adhesive surface is level and the panel is attached to the wall without support.

Ceiling panels

Installation on the crate

To carry out the crate on which the ceiling panels are installed, dry wooden slats 50-100 mm wide are used. They are installed at a distance of 280 mm between the midpoints (axes) of the rails (Figure 1). Attach the plates to the rails with brackets, making sure that the distance between them is at least 100 mm. The length of the bracket is 10-14 mm. The end panel must be fastened with nails or screws so that the wall panel closes them. The panels are fastened along the batten and the best result is obtained if the direction of illumination coincides with the direction of the seams.

Installation with glue

Apply glue strips at a distance of 20 mm from the edge of the plate and a drop of glue in the middle of the panel in 200 mm increments (Figure 4). Attach the panel to the ceiling or wall close to the previous plate, push it into the tongue so that the glue slide is smeared and press without additional fastening. Panels with a textile coating are installed on glue or construction clamps directed in different directions. Exact installation instructions are in the product packaging.

What is Izoplat wood fiber insulation, how it is made, types of material, technical characteristics, pros, cons and do-it-yourself installation features.

Description and production of wood fiber insulation

Wood fiber insulation from Isoplat is a special type of thermal insulation that can be used as a building material as well. Insulation under the Isoplaat trademark is produced by the Estonian company Skano.

This material is produced using the technology of drying or pressing a wood-fiber "carpet". In this case, wood waste is used - shavings, sawdust, etc. The ground raw material is treated with water and folded into a "carpet". After that, it is compacted under the influence of a press so that sheets are formed and the production of lignin begins.

If necessary, chemical substances are introduced into the composition of fiberboard that improve certain characteristics of the material. However, for gluing Isoplat plates, adhesive compositions containing harmful phenol-formaldehyde compounds are not used. The fibers are connected to each other due to the natural resins that wood contains. The structure of the finished material is similar to felt.

Further, the material is dried for several hours. Finished slabs are shaped on a cutting machine. The standard size is 2700x1200 millimeters. Thickness can be 10, 12 and 25 millimeters. At the same time, one of the sides of the plate is smooth, which allows it to be used for fine finishing.

Wood fiber insulation Isoplat is a completely homogeneous natural sound and heat insulator. It has sufficient strength for frame housing construction. Soft fiberboards are among the leading windproof materials in the Baltic and Scandinavian countries. In addition, they are considered an alternative to drywall.

Izoplat is used both in residential buildings and in seasonal buildings (dachas, country houses). Also, for greater efficiency, it is used in multilayer structures as a sound-absorbing soft or lining material in combination with hard sound-reflecting sheets.

Fiberboard insulation can be used to insulate roofs (usually chopped), walls, ceilings, floors. It is also used as a substrate for laminate or parquet, which is called "floating". Isoplat is easy to process and saw, which guarantees an accurate fit of the boards.

The main varieties of Isoplat

You can choose Isoplat plates to suit your needs, using a wide range of this universal heat insulator:

• Roof slabs. They are used for installation under tiles on rafters. With their help, you can perfectly drown out the noise of precipitation and insulate the roof. At the ends there is a milled spike-groove. The material is additionally impregnated with paraffin to achieve maximum non-hygroscopicity.
• Wind protection plates. Suitable for sound and heat insulation of external surfaces under a ventilated facade. Impregnated with paraffin and completely waterproof. They are used, as a rule, for warming wooden, frame houses, from a bar, as well as attics.
• Substrate for laminate. This type of fiberboard Isoplat is used for laying under parquet and laminate as an additional layer of insulation. Products are able to even out certain floor defects, and it is not necessary to use a screed or plywood.
• Thermal and sound insulation boards Isoplaat. Their sphere of use is the internal walls of the house, as well as ceilings. Most often, such plates are used instead of drywall sheets. They perfectly protect against the penetration of cold and extraneous noise. In addition, wallpaper can be glued directly on them.

In addition, Isotex panels are considered a separate group of Isoplat wood fiber insulation. They have the same structure as the first ones, but are covered with a decorative layer, which allows them to be used as the final finishing material for walls and ceilings.

Specifications

Since there are several varieties of Isoplat plates, the material cannot have uniform technical characteristics. Consider the properties of the most common universal heat and sound insulation products:

1. Thermal conductivity. According to this indicator, the slabs are close to stone wool. The coefficient is 0.045 W/(m*K). A small thickness allows you to save space when insulated with this material.
2. moisture resistance. Almost all products are treated with paraffin, which makes them non-hygroscopic and resistant to moisture. Even a small percentage of moisture absorbed by Isoplat will not impair the thermal insulation characteristics of the material. Wood will accumulate moisture, but the interfiber space, which is responsible for thermal conductivity, will remain free of water.
3. Vapor permeability. Natural insulation allows the walls to "breathe". It prevents condensation from accumulating on the surface, removing moisture to the outside.
4. Soundproofing. The material is able to absorb from 23 to 26 decibels of acoustic noise.
5. Density. For Isoplat, this figure is from 230 to 270 kilograms per cubic meter.
6. Compressive strength. Plates have an indicator of about 200 kPa. This allows them to be used for insulating coatings under a soft roof.
7. fire resistance. Izoplat universal products comply with all fire safety standards. Despite the fact that wood is the raw material for their production, the special structure of the material does not allow fire to spread. On the surface of the insulation, when exposed to a flame, ash will form, blocking the access of oxygen to the place of ignition.
8. Biological stability. During the production of boards, wood is deprived of components such as starch, sugars, which serve as food for microorganisms. Therefore, mold, rot and fungi will not appear on the insulation.
9. Environmental friendliness. In the manufacturing process of this heat insulator, harmful chemicals and glue are not used. Therefore, the material will not emit volatile compounds during installation and during use.
10. Lifetime. The manufacturer sets a warranty period for the plates - 50 years. With proper installation, Isoplat can be used for longer.

Advantages of Isoplat plates

This versatile material for insulation has a lot of advantages. Consider them:

• Ecological cleanliness of the insulation. The raw material for Isoplat is wood. There are no binders in the composition, the fibers are naturally intertwined and held together by natural resins. Therefore, it is important to use such material for the insulation of wooden eco-houses, as well as rooms in which children and allergy sufferers live.
• Excellent vapor permeability. Isoplat is able to regulate the humidity inside the building, create a favorable microclimate.
• High thermal inertia. Plates are capable of accumulating and releasing heat within 14 hours. Thus, the temperature inside the building is stabilized. Temperature fluctuations will not be felt as much when lowering or raising it outside the room.
• Not subject to shrinkage or destruction. Unlike a large number of synthetic insulations, fiberboards do not shrink or deform over time.
• Windproof ability. Isoplat plates can also be installed as wind protection. The fiber is located inside the material in layers, along which air pores are randomly concentrated. Getting into the space between the fibers, the outside air loses pressure and speed.
• Filter properties. Isoplat, due to its structure, is able to retain harmful compounds. This is especially true when using plates in structures with insulation such as expanded polystyrene, mineral wool, which can emit formaldehyde, styrene and other toxic chemicals.
• Ease of installation. No special equipment is required to install the products. All work can be done by hand. Convenient thorn-groove system greatly facilitates the installation process.

Disadvantages of fibreboard Izoplat

Before you buy this heater, you should study the reviews on the Internet and pay attention to the disadvantages of Isoplat:

• Increased softness when exposed to moisture. If the material is exposed to water or humid air for a long time, it will become softer. However, when it dries, it will regain its strength and shape again.
• Relatively high price. Natural materials tend to be more expensive. Isoplat is no exception. Therefore, it will cost an order of magnitude more expensive than artificial insulation.

Price and manufacturer of Isoplat plates

The rights to the trade name Isoplaat belong to the Estonian company Skano. Therefore, if you meet on sale a material with a similar name, but from another manufacturer, then you have a fake.

The price of fiberboard insulation may vary depending on its type. The average cost in Russia is as follows:

1. Heat and sound insulating plate Izoplat - from 200 to 500 rubles per square meter;
2. Izoplat windproof plate - from 290 to 1150 rubles per square;
3. Heat-insulating substrate for Izoplat laminate - from 115 to 200 rubles per square meter;
4. Facade plates Izoplat - from 1000 to 1200 rubles per square.

Brief instructions for installing insulation Izoplat

Before proceeding with the installation of heat and sound insulating wood fiber boards, it is recommended to hold them in the room where the work is planned for a couple of days. In this way, the moisture content of the material will equalize with the air humidity in the building.

From the tools you will need building brackets or self-tapping screws with a flat head, a knife, a building level, a hammer or a screwdriver.

Isoplaat slabs can be mounted on pre-installed battens or glued directly to the wall surface.

We work according to the following scheme:

• If you decide to make a crate, then its step should be from 30 to 60 centimeters, depending on the thickness of the slab.
• For fastening to concrete and brick surfaces, you can use various types of glue - for thermal insulation, gypsum-based, for drywall, as well as mounting polyurethane foam.
• Glue is applied to the rough surface of the product in stripes or dots along the perimeter. We press the insulation to the surface.
• Self-tapping screws or nails when attaching the plates to the crate should be flush with the surface and not protrude above the insulation.
• We fix the places of fasteners with putty.
• If you fixed the plates with glue, then before decorating it is recommended to go over them twice with glue or a primer (if painting is planned).

As for the heat-insulating substrate Izoplat, for its installation it is not necessary to use either glue or fasteners. It is laid in a floating way using a tenon-groove system.

Watch the video review of Isoplata:

Isoplaat wood fiber insulation is an effective thermal insulation material, which is valued for its environmental friendliness, low thermal conductivity and practicality. It can be placed on any surface, both indoors and outdoors. Also, Isoplat is a new generation of laminate underlays that perfectly retain heat.