When can you transplant bushes in the spring. How to transplant a bush

Is it possible to transplant a tree or a bush in the summer?

Trees, in case of emergency, can be replanted at any time of the year, observing the following rules:

1. The tree to be transplanted should be taken out of the ground on a foggy or rainy day.
2. Pits are dug a few months before planting and filled with semi-rotted manure or good compost.
3. Trees to be transplanted must be healthy.

When digging up a tree, its strong roots are first exposed at the greatest possible distance. Then they dig a semicircular ditch on one side of the tree, the width is half the length of the roots.

If there are no longer large thick roots, then they dig under the tree and cut off the main core of the roots.

When a tree is dug up on one side, then all the roots are cut off from the opposite side, tilting the tree to the side from which it has already been dug up. Then the tree is taken out of the ground, having previously wrapped it with burlap or tarpaulin and pulled it together with ropes.

Planting holes should be twice as large as the roots will take up space. The roots are straightened in a horizontal position, covered with earth. When backfilling, the tree is shaken if possible, and after backfilling, the earth is trampled down and watered abundantly.

The weak part of the tree should face south.

There is another way to transplant trees in the garden.

To do this, a hole of the appropriate size is dug, but not less than 1.5 m in diameter, and half filled with water (the method of planting in a mash). Then earth and humus are added. All this is shaken up until an earthen mash is formed, into which a tree is planted. The hole is then filled in and watered again. The talker is needed so that all the voids between the roots are filled with soil. Stakes (preferably on three sides) are placed further into untouched soil and with the help of ropes strengthen the tree. A tree planted in this way must be watered 1-2 times a week, depending on the weather and soil conditions.

After planting, and even better before transplanting, all branches of the crown are cut in half, the roots damaged by a shovel are smoothly cut with a knife.

After transplanting, it is advisable to tie the trunk and main branches with moss to protect the tree from sunlight. It is useful to mulch the soil around the tree with straw manure to maintain its moisture.

Nevertheless, the autumn method of transplantation is more preferable for which the time has come in the country now.

Reader Tips:

How to transplant a large, large tree (krupnomer)

Having received a plot, the newly-minted gardener seeks to plant everything at once. And more! But ten years pass, and incorrectly planted apple trees turn into a forest. This is where the problem of choice arises: either an ax or a transplant. And the tree is already multi-meter ...

Transplanting large-sized trees (this is what trees older than 10 years are called) without the appropriate equipment is not at all an easy task. But with two or three pairs of hands possible. Dig around the tree within a radius of 0.6-0.8 m from the trunk, chop off the roots. Then “hand-to-hand” (or with a winch) lay the tree on its side (without lifting!), Cutting the vertical roots by at least half a meter. Backfill the resulting hole flush with the surrounding soil. Then spread a tarp (or something similar) in this place. Turn the root ball over onto the bedding, turning the tree upright. And then drag your newcomer to a new place of residence.

My husband and I transplanted trees in November - a cherry tree at the age of 8 and an apple tree at the age of 15. The place where they grew was shaded, and we decided to move them to the sun. There was a risk, of course. But, as they say, who does not risk ...

Holes were prepared in advance, and deeper than those in which our trees were originally planted. Humus was poured at the bottom, necessarily two shovels of clay each (there is no stagnant water in our area, and clay retains moisture), a little sprinkled with earth.

They dug up the trees - they dug from the trunk at a distance of 80 cm, chopped off the long roots. Barely dragged "settlers" to a new place. We planted them 10 cm deeper than usual, and made a bowl-type recess to rainwater flowed right under the trees. Finally watered heavily. It was in the last days of November. December was wet, with occasional showers. Perhaps because of this, the trees did not get sick. Have been waiting for spring.

Imagine our surprise when in the spring we saw swollen buds, and then abundant flowering- and got accustomed!

In the spring, in this “bowl”, I watered the apple tree 2-3 buckets, or even more, since it needed moisture so that the flowers would not fade. And in the summer, during fruiting, watered on dry days. I did it in the evenings. When setting and ripening fruits, moisture is needed. I took water from a pond, it is not far from our garden.

They worked, watered, and it settled down. Seedlings benefit from water in a hot summer - it is absorbed into the ground, moisturizing it abundantly, and everything around grows. You just need to make sure that the puddle does not stand under the tree. If your site is too low, I advise you to make drainage at the bottom of the pit so that the roots do not rot.

Below are other entries on the topic "Cottage and garden - with your own hands"

: SEEDLINGS WERE PLANTED. QUESTIONS REMAIN FOR BEGINNERS...

For beginner gardeners, the question of the need to transplant currants to a new place is puzzling. The latter mistakenly believe that such manipulations with the shrub can be fatal for him, focusing only on pruning. But, there are several reasons why you need to perform this procedure:

• when the soil under plantings is depleted, filled with toxins, its swamping;
• if the plant grows in one place for more than 10-15 years;
• the shrub stopped developing and the growth of young shoots was minimized;
• plantings have grown greatly, and the allotted space has ceased to be sufficient;
• neighboring trees grew and currant plantings were in the shade;
• site redevelopment was required.

Regardless of the reason, the procedure always benefits the plant.

When planting currants need a transplant

The shrub itself, or rather its external state, can speak of the need to transplant a plant. There are fewer new shoots, smaller berries, and the yield itself is reduced. Leaves turning yellow and falling during the summer, drying branches - all this suggests that nutrients there is not enough in the soil or the content of toxins in the soil has increased, which means that the shrub cannot develop further. The poor development of the shrub from the first year of planting indicates that the selected area or the quality of the soil on it was not suitable for a particular currant variety or for planting in general. Find out about the characteristics of the Raisin currant bush by.

A transplant is carried out if next year after the first full-fledged fruiting, the inflorescences began to fall off, and the volume and quality of the crop deteriorated.

When propagating the currant variety you like, it is also recommended to transplant the shrub to a new place. Efficiency further development currants largely depends on the correctness of the process and compliance with all the requirements of agricultural technology.

How to do a transplant

There are several options for the procedure. Some allow you to keep the mother plant in its original place, separating a couple of shoots for further cultivation. If the bush is not very branched, then it can be transferred completely or divided into several small bushes.

Choice of location and soil

The place for future plantings should be chosen based on the recommendations for a particular variety. You can also use the general recommendations of agricultural technology.

The shrub is somewhat capricious in this regard. An excessively high landing site is not recommended. Otherwise, it will be difficult for its rhizomes to extract moisture, which will affect the growth, development and quality of the crop.

In the lowland, the bush will also feel uncomfortable due to proximity. ground water and the accumulation of excess moisture, which will lead to decay of the root system. The latter is manifested in the yellowness of the leaves, the fall of the peduncles, and the berries will be watery.

Basic requirements for choosing a landing site:

1. It should be under the sun, partial shade is permissible only at lunchtime - this will speed up the ripening of the berries.
2. The surface is preferably flat, without slopes and depressions, if necessary, it should be leveled.
3. The land should be free from weeds, especially those whose rhizomes are located close to the surface and intertwined with currant roots are especially destructive.
4. Plantings should not be closely adjacent to other fruit-bearing plants.

A number of requirements are also imposed on the quality of the soil:

1. Soils should be chosen slightly acidic or neutral. These include loam.
2. If such on garden plot no, you can resort to drainage, mulching and fertilizing.
3. Deoxidize by adding lime, chalk, dolomite flour, as well as wood ash.

Preparing a shrub for transplanting to a new place

It is necessary to prepare for a transplant in advance. For 3 weeks they are cut, leaving only a few branches for fruiting, while removing old and dried growth. The main branches must be shortened by at least a third.

It is not allowed to cut the bush before the process itself. Otherwise, he simply will not take root in a new place. The height of the shrub ready for transplanting should be 45-50 cm. And the number of branches left is at least three. Pro the best varieties currants for the middle lane read.

After pruning, the bushes must be fed and watered well.

Transplant methods

Depending on the condition of the main shrub, methods are also selected. So, the poor condition of the currant or its great age makes it necessary to resort to such a method as reproduction by layering. If the shrub is young, but has grown very much, then it is better to use such an option as dividing the bush.

By dividing the bush

Division allows you to get several young ones from one, even an old bush. Having prepared the shrub for transplantation, it must be properly dug up and divided into several small ones. The shrub is dug up, the root system is carefully, if possible not completely, freed from the ground, then it is divided with a garden saw or an ax into several new bushes.

layering

Layering is usually divided into horizontal and arc. Horizontal for reproduction is done even before the leaves appear. To do this, the annual branch is bent to the ground, carefully placed in a previously prepared furrow, pinned with wire. During the season, it is necessary to water not only the furrow, but also the mother bush. In September, layering and not a few crayons of seedlings are divided, after which they are planted in another place for growing.

The arc method differs from the previous one in that the branch is bent in an arc, pinning only its end in the pit. In this way, you can get only one seedling.

Timing

Spring or autumn transplant is recommended. There are no special differences between them, although there are some requirements. They mainly concern the region of growth. For northern latitudes, the spring period is preferable, since it is more protracted here, and in autumn the cold comes quite early. Altai will tell about the characteristics and features of the currant bush.

But in regions located south of the middle latitudes, preference is given to autumn transplantation. After all, here spring is early and sap flow begins earlier. And you can simply not be in time before the end of the "sleep" mode, while autumn is long and warm. Plantings will have time to take root and will not die in winter.

spring

The transfer is started only after setting a constant temperature of 0-1 degrees after warming up the earth.

The buds of the bush should not swell yet.

This requirement keeps the available time to a minimum. But the bush gets time before winter to strengthen. So that the root system does not experience stress, they dig it out with a large earthen clod. It is not shaken from the roots. Do not forget about abundant watering, the water should be at room temperature.

Is it possible to transplant in the fall

The transfer is started after the end of the active growth of the plant, the slowdown in sap flow and the shedding of foliage. The stress experienced will be kept to a minimum.

In autumn, you need to choose the right transfer date. It takes about three weeks for full rooting. This is how much should remain until the onset of stable cold weather, when the constant temperature drops below 0.

Plant early, then there is a high probability of bud germination after rooting. And this will inevitably lead to his death. If planted later, then the bush simply does not have time to strengthen before winter and will die again.

For mid-latitudes, the optimal time is the end of October - the beginning of November. For northern latitudes, the specified period occurs a couple of weeks earlier.

For the winter, the bush needs to be covered; for this, several buckets of compost (humus) are used.

Is it possible to transplant an old bush in the summer

This procedure is highly undesirable. But in some situations it is acceptable:

• sale of the plot, and the plant is varietal;
• the site of germination is infected.

The bush needs to be dug up with an earthen clod on the roots, and the larger the clod, the better. In addition, you will need very plentiful watering, especially if the weather is dry and hot.

When can bushes be transplanted: during flowering, a bush with berries

In the above paragraph, we dealt with optimal timing transplants. It remains to solve the following questions:

1. Is it possible to transplant a bush with berries?
2. Can it be transplanted during flowering?

It is necessary to transplant a flowering bush completely with the root system, there will be no harvest.

The answers to both questions are negative, the exceptions are the sale of the site and the bushes must be taken with you to a new place, or the soil has become infected with a pest. And be prepared that you will see the harvest only for the next season.

Errors in the implementation of the procedure

All procedures for transplanting currants must be carried out, adhering to necessary conditions. A prerequisite is the requirement to comply with the rules of agricultural technology. For example, for red varieties, and best time for transplanting is spring. And for black species, a systematic transplant - at least once every 6-7 years - allows you to get higher yields. For red, this period is 10-12 years. If the required conditions are not met, then the yield decreases, the berries sharply decrease in size, and the number of ovaries formed decreases.

In addition, gardeners make other mistakes:

1. Planting bushes in a new place in pits of the same depth as in the previous place. It is recommended to dig landing holes in a new place 5-7 cm deeper.
2. Gardeners pay little attention to watering plants. In order for the plant to recover better and faster and bring forth a large harvest, it will need a large amount of water. Of course, you should not keep the plant in a puddle, but the ground under it should be constantly wet.
3. Some gardeners apply a large amount of fertilizer when transplanting under the bushes, counting on faster growth and a larger harvest in the future. This is mistake. After all, excess fertilizer in the soil, on the contrary, will cause severe harm to the plant.
4. The combination of transplantation with pruning plants. These procedures are already difficult for the plant, and their combination can lead to the death of the bush.

Features of transplanting different types of currants

According to statistics, most often in our gardens you can find red, black and white currants. Despite belonging to the same species, each variety has its own transplant requirements. They are associated with the vegetative period of the variety, structural features of the bushes and the root system. In addition, the varieties differ among themselves in the features of care, planting and, of course, reproduction.

Red

Gardeners adore the red currant variety for its undemanding soil and planting. And although it will almost always please with a good harvest, there are still small subtleties that must be observed when transplanting.

Since there are no special problems with root engraftment when transplanting red, most often the procedure is carried out in the fall. Don't forget to fertilize and feed. Experienced gardeners advise putting organic matter in the planting hole in advance.

A distinctive feature of blackcurrant from red in a shorter root system, in this case, this is more of a plus than a minus. After all, this allows you to quickly and easily saturate the roots with essential trace elements, minerals and other organic components.

Transplanting black involves abundant watering. At the same time, some gardeners are afraid that a puddle of water forms under the plant. But for black this is the norm, so there is no need to be afraid.

White

All the steps used when transplanting red are also applicable to the white variety of currants. Read about the features of caring for currants of the White Fairy variety.

Video

About transplanting currants to a new place, see the video:

conclusions

1. The process of transfer is extremely beneficial to the plant, regardless of the reasons that caused it.
2. The event must be carried out in accordance with all the requirements of agricultural technology, otherwise there will be no success.
3. There is no particular difference in the procedure for transferring black, red or white currants.
4. The transfer period depends on the region of growth and weather conditions. Read about.

How to transplant shrubs.

If you are bored with the familiar look of your garden, you can always make interesting changes by transplanting ornamental shrubs to a new place. And the reason may be - just a change of mood or if the plant has grown and you have found a new cozy place for it in your garden.

Transplantation of "oversized" planting material practiced in world gardening for a very long time. The need to transplant shrubs appears if you want to change the appearance of the garden or transplant the plant to a more suitable place for it. In addition, shrubs are transplanted if they have grown strongly and there is not enough space for them in this area, however, I already said this at the very beginning.

The time is recommended to transplant in spring or autumn when they are at rest. Plants transplanted at this time take root better. In the spring they are transplanted after the soil opens, and in the fall at such a time that they have time to take root before the onset of cold weather. Before transplanting shrubs with curly shoots, tie them with braid or put a bag on the shrub. It is easiest to transplant shrubs that grow in the garden in one place for no more than a year. Otherwise, the transplant will be very complicated. If possible, refrain from transplanting adult shrubs, as such specimens do not tolerate transplantation well and take root worse.

Shrubs take root well in a new place if you prepare them for transplanting. Transplant them at the right time and provide them with proper care.

We select a suitable site in the garden. This place must meet all the necessary requirements for both light and soil characteristics. Before planting, we carry out abundant pruning. If the location where you want to transplant the shrub is close to where it currently grows, then the plant can be moved without packing its roots. If you need to move the bush a considerable distance, then I recommend packing its root ball in a dense cloth. This will help us not to lose that soil that forms a lump on the roots of the plant, and it will also help to store the shrub for a while if you cannot plant it right away.

To prepare for transplanting shrubs, I advise you to approach this issue with all responsibility. A month before transplanting a shrub, use a shovel to draw a circle around it. Before transplanting, we water the shrub well so that it is easier to dig it out, and the roots are saturated with moisture. Open the root ball from all sides or carefully dig it out, being careful not to damage the roots. Then we dig a landing hole at the proposed site for the future planting of the shrub. The pit should be twice as wide as the root ball itself. The earth at the bottom of the landing pit will need to be loosened. We plant our shrub at the same depth as it grew before transplanting. Form a watering circle and water the plant. Also water the plant when the soil dries to a depth of 5 cm. After watering, we mulch the soil with a thick layer of suitable mulching material (cm one hundred mulch).

In the spring, a few weeks after planting, new shoots will appear on the bushes. At the same time, the plant develops new roots. In order for the plant to develop well in the future, feed it. You can add liquid fertilizer to the water and carry out root dressing. If you transplanted a bush to a windy place, take care of a reliable support, we install the support in such a way as not to damage the roots of our shrub. As soon as the shrub takes root, the support can be removed; for the rooted shrub, the wind is no longer a hindrance.

And to sum it up: the ideal time to transplant is early spring, as soon as the soil opens up, before the plant has started to grow. Plants take root faster with regular watering and cool weather. In cold climates and areas with clay soil The plant is best planted in the spring. We transplant in the autumn, this is an alternative time for transplanting shrubs. It is very important to plant the plant at such a time that they have time to take root before the onset of cold weather. If it rains in the fall, repot the plants after the soil has dried out. That's all the secrets of a good shrub transplant. Good luck to you.

Transplanting currants in the spring is an important cultural event. Since after 5 - 7 years of its growth on the plot, the berries become smaller, the young shoots do not grow so intensively, the foliage changes its usual color to yellow and falls off the bushes in August. Our article will tell summer residents what the goals of spring transplantation are, the features of the process, how to properly prepare a place for culture. But we will also consider FAQ and gardening mistakes.

Why should currant bushes be transplanted to a new place in spring? There are good reasons for this. Among them, the desire to propagate the variety of currant you like, the presence of signs of diseases in the bushes (if the treatment has not yielded results), when the cultures have grown excessively and interfere with the normal development of each other.

The need for transplantation arises due to a change in the level of groundwater (when the depth of their location becomes smaller), if the crown of a tree growing near currants has grown very much and gives a shadow. Or a new object was built when the state of the shrub is being updated, associated with its solid age. It is also possible to transplant a plant from depleted and toxin-filled soil to more fertile land. So that the currant can continue to grow normally and fully develop.

Features of spring transplant

Many gardeners are interested in - are we doing the right thing when we transplant shrubs in autumn or spring? It should be noted that the procedure is permissible in both periods of the year. It is important to focus on the condition of the plant. In autumn, it is customary to transplant it after all the foliage has fallen. In the spring, this is done until the buds appear and the currants begin to grow.

Many experienced summer residents call a transplant in the spring rather a necessary measure. In its favor is the fact that plants do not experience such severe stress after winter. How to transplant currants in spring? To do this, you should wait until the earth warms up well. The temperature of its layer should be at least 5 degrees Celsius. If it was not possible to carry out work in the spring, they should be postponed until the fall or spring of next year.

In order for the bushes to survive the procedure normally, it is advised to transfer their roots along with the ground. Mandatory after transplantation is mulching with potash fertilizers, humus, loose peat, wood ash, sawdust and dry grass. To take root, the bushes require watering with warmed up in the sun or water at room temperature.

Preparing a new place

For planting, it is important to choose a normally sunlit and fairly spacious place. The hole should be dug deep enough for the root system to be at ease. Remember that it is easier to root in loose soil. At the bottom of the pit, organic top dressing or compost is sure to fall asleep. After digging, water should be poured into the hole. When it is slightly absorbed, it is permissible to plant a bush. If the soil has absorbed the liquid quickly, you need to water it again.

Soil preparation should be carried out a couple of weeks before the planned transplant. After digging, it is cleared of grass and rhizomes of weeds. The holes should measure 40 by 40 cm (relevant for young plants). For adults, the size calculation is based on overgrown roots. Given the age of the bush, the depth of its placement in the ground is usually 30 - 50 cm. A trench is made for several plants, where they are planted at a distance of up to 1.5 meters.

In the presence of heavy soil, you should take care of high-quality drainage. To do this, sand, crushed stone or cuttings in a small amount are added to the hole. Two-thirds of the holes must be filled with soil, to which humus and compost are added.

Currant responds gratefully to fertilizers such as nitrogen, potassium and phosphorus. If the transplant is carried out in a place with high acidity of the soil, the introduction of chalk, dolomite, slaked lime, and ash will help correct the situation. To dig a bush from its usual place, it should be carefully dug in a circle, observing a depth of up to 50 cm. You can not pull the plants by the upper part. Transferring it to a new hole is carried out together with a clod of earth on the roots. For the purpose of disinfection, they are advised to pre-treat with potassium permanganate.

FAQ

There are a number of questions that are often asked by many gardeners:

• Question number 1. Is it possible to transplant bushes aged 3 to 5 years. Or is cutting them preferable?
  It is allowed to do so. It will be right to dig up the shrubs and carefully drag them to a new place without damaging the roots along with the clod of earth. The upper part of the culture is advised to cut off and deepen normally. After the procedure, sufficient watering is important for normal engraftment.
• Question number 2. Is it permissible to transplant young seedlings to the place where they grew and from where the old bushes were uprooted?
  Practice shows that it is better for them to allocate a new place. Since the contamination of the earth with diseases, as well as its depletion, is not ruled out.
• Question number 3. What crops can normally exist next to currants?
  It is recommended to plan planting garlic and onions near the bushes. They will become reliable protection currants from a possible attack of pests and infections. It is best not to transplant the bush under fruit trees. It is not advised to place them near raspberries and gooseberries.
• Question number 4. Do the bushes, which were planted in the fall, require a hilling procedure?
  Yes, it would be useful to carry it out for the purpose of normal warming. But in the spring the embankment will have to be leveled. As the plants begin to release side shoots. During the summer, the land at the place where the hilling was carried out will dry out. As a result, the superficial root system of the currant runs the risk of dying or suffering from frost in the future.
• Question number 5. Is it necessary to cut off the ground part of the transplanted bush?
  You can do it. But remember that in this case, the engraftment will not be too fast.

Mistakes gardeners make

Sometimes when transplanting currants experienced gardeners make the same mistakes. For example, a culture is transplanted to the same depth that was in the old place. It will be correct to place the plant in the ground to a depth that exceeds the previous one by 5 - 7 cm.

Also, often watering shrubs is insufficient. After the transplant is carried out, the plants should be watered abundantly. Then you can count on their normal recovery and increase in the degree of productivity.

But at the same time, it is important to avoid excessive flooding of the selected place. Some summer residents, in pursuit of intensive growth of currants and a large number of berries, are able to overdo it with top dressing. Even quality fertilizers in quantities that exceed the allowable and indicated on the packaging, may harm crops rather than benefit.

Video “Transplantation and rejuvenation of currants”

From this video you will learn how to properly transplant and rejuvenate currants.

In case of unsuccessful planting, when redeveloping the territory, it is sometimes necessary to transplant grapes to a new place. This is a very plastic culture, adapting well to new conditions. Therefore, with some effort, even an adult fruit-bearing plant can be moved and its yield can be maintained.

When can grapes be transplanted

There are no universal dates when it is better to transplant grapes. The gardener needs to focus on his region and specific climatic conditions.

The optimal time for planting and transplanting is autumn and spring. In autumn, work begins after leaf fall and continues until frost. In the southern regions, where the soil does not freeze in winter, it is permissible to plant during long thaws in January-February.

In the spring, they wait for the soil to thaw. It is important to have time to transplant before the eyes open. In spring, the soil is well saturated with moisture, which plants use for their development.

Important! The earlier the bushes are planted (if conditions are favorable), the better they will take root.

When deciding how to properly transplant grapes without loss to the crop, the gardener must take into account not only the time of the operation, but also the age of the plant.

Methods for transplanting different ages of adult grape bushes

The first three years of life, a young plant is considered a seedling. During this period, he is actively forming roots. With age, the old roots thicken, the life potential of the grapes and its ability to regenerate decreases. This means that the older the plant, the worse it takes root in a new place. Nevertheless, even adult bushes 7-10 years old are able to produce good yields after transplantation.

How can I transplant an adult grape bush:

• with a clod of earth;
• with an open root system.

For adult bushes, the first method is optimal - with a clod of earth and an intact root system. However, this is not always feasible without special equipment.

So, depending on the type of soil and climate, the root system of a grape bush penetrates to the following depth:

• in a humid cool climate - 20-40 cm;
• in the south - 40-120 cm;
• on sandy soils - 1.5-3.5 m;
• on rocks in the southern regions - 3-5 m and more.

Thus, the task of the grower during transplantation is to preserve the maximum of roots. The older the plant, the larger the earthen ball will be.

One-year-olds, two-year-olds, three-year-olds

Young seedlings are planted from the school on permanent place at the age of 1-3 years. They can be both with a closed root system and with an open one.

In the specialized literature on viticulture, it is advised to do this:

1. Select 1-2 most developed shoots on the seedling, remove the rest.
2. Cut the selected shoots, leaving 2-3 eyes on each.
3. Remove all roots located above the first or second node from the heel. This should stimulate the development of the main heel roots.
4. Shorten the calcaneal roots to 20-25 cm when planting in holes and up to 5-7 cm under a hydraulic drill.

Features of transplanting grapes at different times of the year

When planning how to transplant grapes to another place in autumn or spring, the gardener proceeds from the climate of the region and the type of root system of planting material (closed - ZKS or open - OKS).

Transplanting seedlings in autumn

With an autumn transplant, the undoubted advantage is that in the spring the bush starts growing early and does not lag behind the rest in development. This means that in the first year after the operation, you can get a small harvest.

If you plan to transplant grapes from ZKS in the fall, be prepared that the plant will not have time to take root in a new place and will not survive the winter. To avoid this, you need to carefully mulch the soil around the seedling and make a more solid shelter.

As an option, in areas with little snowy winters and possible frosts, it is recommended to dig seedlings with ZKS in the fall, and plant them only in the spring, organizing a cool winter for them in the basement or cellar. Bushes with ACS are transplanted in the fall.

Differences in transplanting in spring and summer

With a spring transplant, it is likely that the bush will get used to new conditions for a long time, it will start growing late and, as a result, the vine will not have time to mature. Harvest with this method of transplantation will have to wait longer.

Important! Planting vegetative grapes in unheated soil will most likely lead to the death of the root system, and hence the entire bush.

A definite plus spring planting is that the pit for the plant is prepared well in advance, even in summer or autumn. During the winter months, all the fillers brought into the pit are compacted and create a more uniform soil.

In summer, transplanting adult bushes is undesirable. During the growing season, the plant will spend a lot of energy on restoring the roots to the detriment of the development of the ground part and may wither. Young vegetative seedlings with a closed root system, which can be transplanted without damaging the roots, are moved to a new place in the summer.

How to transplant grapes

In general, the procedure for transplanting grapes to a new place does not differ from the usual planting. Only one operation is added - excavation.

How to dig bushes

The older the plant, the harder it is to dig it out with the entire root system. Procedure:

1. They dig a bush at a distance of about 50 cm from the trunk, while trying not to damage the roots of neighboring plants.
2. Carefully expose the roots. If they go deep into the ground, cut off. At this stage, the main thing is to save the heel and the main roots coming from it.
3. If there is a physical possibility, they grab a bush right with a clod of earth and transfer it onto a sheet of metal, a tarpaulin or into a wheelbarrow, with which they drag the plant to a new planting site.
4. So that the lump does not fall apart, you can wrap it with a piece of cloth and bandage it.
5. If the bush will be transplanted with an open root, gently shake the ground on the roots with your hands or a stake, completely exposing them.

Novice gardeners doubt whether it is necessary to water the plant before transplanting. Watering contributes to the fact that the earth does not crumble and keeps a lump. If you want to clean the roots, you do not need to pre-water the bush.

An interesting way to dig a bush with a hydraulic drill:

• The soil around the bush is well worked out with a hydraulic drill to the state of slurry.
• Then all the slurry is scooped out, leaving the roots intact.
• If there is no hydraulic drill, the bush is dug in and watered until the soil is saturated.

Planting material preparation

Before or after transplantation, regardless of the age of the bush, the aerial part must be shortened. 2-3 annual shoots are left on the plant. They are cut into 2-3 buds closer to the beginning of the sleeve. If it is planned to update the entire aerial part, it is cut into a black head.

Planting grapes in a new place

A new place for the bush is prepared in advance, at least a month in advance, and even better, six months in advance. The depth of planting and its method depend on:

• climate,
• type of soil on the site,
• the possibility of shelter for the winter,
• snow depth and other factors.

Traditionally, in industrial vineyards, bushes are planted in pits or under a hydraulic drill. The latter method is only suitable for young seedlings with a shortened root system.

• in the European part - 45-50 cm;
• on irrigated fertile soils of Central Asia - 55-60 cm;
• on sandy soils - 60-65 cm.

However, in the amateur viticulture of Russia in different regions established their methods:

• in the south, where the soil warms up well and dries quickly, they are planted in large, pre-fertilized pits to a depth of 40-50 cm;
• in the Moscow region, the method of planting in raised ridges to a depth of 30-40 cm is gaining popularity;
• in areas of northern viticulture, for example, in the Urals, grapes are planted in trenches to provide bushes with good shelter in winter and quick warming in summer.

In areas with poor soil (sand, stone), deep pits 1x1x1 m are made for planting, which are filled with plant residues, rotted manure or humus, mineral fertilizers. On black soil, there is no such need. There it is enough to dig a hole according to the size of the root system and plant a seedling to a depth of no more than 40-45 cm.

Thus, there is no universal landing scheme suitable for all regions. Each grower chooses for himself the one that meets the conditions of his site. When transplanting an adult bush, the same rules apply as for a normal planting, which we will discuss below.

Instructions for transplanting grapes

With a clod of earth and a root

The sequence of operations:

1. The landing pit is prepared in proportion to the earthen coma.
2. Pour a couple of buckets of water into it.
3. Lower the bush into the hole and remove the wrapping fabric.
4. The gaps between the earthen clod and the walls of the pit are gradually covered with earth, periodically watering.
5. When the pit is completely covered with earth, a near-stem circle is formed and the bush is abundantly watered again with the addition of a root growth stimulator.

Open root system

Boarding order:

1. A hole is prepared in advance with a depth of 15-20 cm more than the length of the underground stem of the seedling and watered with water.
2. At the bottom, 10-25 cm of fertile soil, mixed with humus and mineral fertilizers, are poured.
3. Before planting, the roots of the seedling are cut to 25-30 cm and dipped in a creamy mash (2 parts of clay for 1 part cow dung).
4. A mound is made in the center of the pit, on which a seedling is placed.
5. The roots are spread along the slopes of the mound.
6. A pit with a seedling is covered with earth to half and watered.
7. Cover with earth to surface level.
8. Form a near-stem circle and water abundantly.

Important! In the zone of shelter viticulture, the base of the shoots after planting should be 1-2 cm below the soil level.

Errors when transplanting grapes

If the seedling does not take root and grows poorly, the features of transplanting adult grapes may not have been taken into account.

Rcommon mistakes:

1. Late planting in spring. The plant needs time to adapt to new conditions and restore the roots. In addition, in spring the soil dries out quickly and a seedling with ACS may not have enough soil moisture to start growing.
2. Early planting in spring. In cold soil, the roots of a vegetative seedling with ZKS may die off.
3. Too much root pruning. Having lost heel roots, an adult bush cannot restore them and receive proper nutrition.
4. Landing in a dry hole. A dry layer between the roots and soil moisture prevents the beginning of root growth.
5. Attempt to collect a full-fledged crop in the year of transplantation. Excessive load of the bush leads to the fact that the plant spends its own resources without getting enough nutrition.

Care of grapes after transplantation

In the first year after transplanting to a new place, the bush needs increased care and attention.

Caring for transplanted grapes

We must be prepared that the plant will not immediately recover and will give full yields. The inflorescences formed in the first year are cut off completely so that the bush directs all its forces to restore the roots.

watering

The bush is watered in the same way as the rest of the vineyard: by land or through a pipe. Choosing the second method, gardeners should take into account the depth of the root layer. For example, if the roots do not penetrate further than 40 cm, and the pipe is dug deeper into the ground, the bush does not receive water when watering.

Depending on soil moisture, 3-5 waterings are carried out per season, every 2 weeks in dry weather and 3-4 weeks in wet weather. At early varieties watering is completed in mid-July, in late ones - in mid-August.

Every 15-20 days after rain or watering loosen the soil around the bush. This keeps the soil from drying out and allows air to flow to the roots.

top dressing

Fertilizers filled in the pit during planting are enough for the first 2 years. During this period, additional feeding is carried out if signs of a lack of elements are visible.

Frost protection

Bushes are prepared for winter in different ways, depending on the region of cultivation:

• cover the ground with a mulch layer;
• spud;
• protect the bushes with non-woven material;
• cover seedlings with soil.

Disease and pest control

During the season, several sprays of Bordeaux liquid from mildew are carried out. In general, the transplanted bush is treated in the same way as the rest of the vineyard.

Important! It is advisable to use reduced doses of drugs on a weakened bush.

Results

Adult grape bushes are able to take root in a new place at almost any age. The gardener himself must decide on the feasibility of transplanting due to the large labor costs of the operation. If you want to save a valuable variety, before transplanting, it is recommended to prepare cuttings from a bush or propagate it with branches.

There is no definite answer to the question of when to transplant a berry crop. Some gardeners argue that there is only one option - currant transplantation in the fall, when the leaves are absent, the movement of the juice slows down, and the plant is ready for wintering.

The need to transplant currants arises in the following cases:

In each case listed, the rules for transplantation and the procedure for working are similar.

Before answering the question of when it is possible to transplant currants, you should first choose a new place for the shrub. This berry culture loves sunlight and warmth, so shaded areas cannot be used. If there is little heat and light, the number of berries will decrease, and the bush will be susceptible to various diseases. It is not recommended to lower the roots of the plant into very moist soil - it will not grow. It is better to choose a moderately moist chernozem containing loam impurities, in a pit, if possible, make drainage.

This berry culture loves sunlight and warmth, so shaded areas cannot be used.

It is not desirable that the shrub is on the second tier. Its leaves are susceptible to diseases, and the fungus from most berry and fruit crops can harm the crop. Transplantation can be performed on partially sandy soil - the bush grows and develops better in it. Carefully dig up the place where currants will grow in the future, remove all debris, weeds and roots of old plants.

Currant transplant rules

If you decide to transplant a berry crop, carefully prepare for this process. The yield of the shrub depends on the correctness of your actions.

In the selected area, pits should be dug, placing them at a distance of one and a half meters from each other. Pour inside fertile soil, humus, potash, phosphate fertilizers or wood ash. The prepared soil should be nutritious and loose enough. To transplant red currants, it is advisable to add sand to the soil, and arrange drainage in the form of a small layer of rubble at the bottom of the pit. The size of the holes should be at least fifty centimeters wide and thirty deep, but it is better to focus on the size of the roots.

The size of the holes should be at least fifty centimeters wide and thirty deep, but it is better to focus on the size of the roots.

Berry culture needs to be prepared for transplantation: cut young shoots in half and cut old branches to the ground. The bush is carefully dug up and taken out of the ground. You do not need to pull on the shoots - this can ruin the roots or branches. If it was not possible to extract the plant the first time, it is dug in again for one and a half or two bayonets of a shovel.

Berry culture needs to be prepared for transplantation

If the bush is healthy, it can be removed along with a clod of earth and immediately transplanted. But if it is sick, carefully inspect the roots, remove damaged and dry ones, remove the larvae of pests and insects that live in the root system of the plant. After that, treat the roots with a solution of potassium permanganate.

Pour a large amount of water into the hole so that the soil mixture looks like a liquid substance. Immerse the shrub in the slurry and, holding it in weight, sprinkle it with dry soil five to eight centimeters above the root neck. Water again to compact the soil around the roots. The distance between the bushes should be at least one hundred and fifty centimeters so that they do not obscure each other. A transplanted plant needs regular care: regular watering, spraying and nutritious top dressing.

Pour a large amount of water into the hole so that the soil mixture looks like a liquid substance.

How to transplant currants in autumn

For all gardeners, the question is when is it better to transplant currants in order to quickly get good harvest. In the northern regions, transplantation is advisable in the spring, when the snow melts and the temperature rises above zero. But if the bushes have already begun to grow, it is better to postpone the transplant until autumn.

The procedure requires some patience, since the shrub must shed its leaves, and the sap flow must stop in the shoots. For the middle band, the optimal period is mid-late October. In the north - two or three weeks later. If you move the bushes early, the currant can confuse the seasons and grow and throw out the buds. In winter, they freeze and weaken the plant. During dry and warm autumn, transplanted shrubs require constant watering.

Winter shelter is a must. Three buckets of old humus mixed with leaves of ornamental trees can be poured into the base of the bush. By spring, a fertile and loose layer of soil forms around the plant, in which you can arrange a watering bowl. Shrubs planted in autumn get used to a new place during the winter and take root to give a harvest in summer. If currant bushes are transplanted in the spring, they take root for a long time and give berries only after a year.

Transplant in the spring

During this period, rooted cuttings are transplanted - they are transferred to a permanent place from the nursery trench. If the cuttings were planted in the fall, in the spring it will be branches with two or three leaves.

If the plant was cut from cuttings in the spring, well-developed bushes with two or three shoots should form by the time of transplantation. They are very easy to transplant, but the plant must be dug up with a clod of earth to minimize the risk of damage to the roots. Shrubs transplanted in spring require proper care and good watering throughout the summer. Adult shrubs are transplanted as early as possible - in the middle or end of March.

In the summer, currant transplantation is not desirable, but possible. Adult bushes need to be dug up with an earthen clod - it should be as large as possible. For carrying to a new place, basins, buckets and boxes are used. They need to be selected taking into account the size of the roots. After planting a shrub in a prepared hole, water it thoroughly for several days.

For carrying to a new place, basins, buckets and boxes are used.

Container seedlings can be transplanted at any time of the year. It is important to provide them with good watering, top dressing and fertilizers using ammonium nitrate. Immediately after planting, the site must be mulched using peat, compost, humus or sand - they will help retain moisture. If the planting pits are prepared with high quality, top dressing will be needed only after a year.

Regardless of the time of the procedure, in transplanted bushes, it is necessary to cut off as much of the vegetative mass as possible, and leave two or three buds for reproduction.

If the planting pits are prepared with high quality, top dressing will be needed only after a year.

Otherwise, the plant will slow down and pick up pace for a long time.

Abundant watering is required. The first two weeks, you can safely arrange a swamp, that is, keep the roots in the water. The longer this process takes, the higher the probability of getting a rich harvest. But you can not keep the roots in water for more than three weeks, as they can rot.

In the first year, the crown should be properly formed so that the overgrowth is at a minimum, and all branches stretch upwards. Further care is carried out in the fall: all old branches are cut out, the bush is directed in the right direction.

Blackcurrant transplantation is possible in autumn, spring and even summer. It is the best time for such work - mid-October. Therefore, if you want to collect a lot of berries, follow the above recommendations.

Tell me, please, when is it better to transplant bushes of spirea gray Grefsheim? They planted tiny seedlings with a closed root system two years ago and missed the spot. They grow in a more illuminated and warm part of the garden, next to apple trees and lilacs, the buds have already appeared. Now the bushes have already grown to 60 cm and it has become obvious that they need to be transplanted, and I am afraid to ruin them with an untimely transplant. And another question about spirea. The same spirea, only a 4-5 year old bush. Can it be transplanted painlessly or only by severely pruning and with a high risk of loss?

I obviously delayed the answer, but, on the other hand, my answer in May will just demonstrate that spirea is a very easy-to-care culture. She is not afraid of a transplant at any age, and with little tricks, she can be transplanted even in summer.
Strict connoisseurs flora recommendations are rewritten from post to post: spirea can be transplanted early in the spring before bud break or late in the fall after leaf fall. I admire such connoisseurs: they manage to do everything in the garden and garden on time. But what about those summer residents who can go to their garden only at the end of April, or even on the May holidays, and in the fall they end the season not at the end of October, but at the beginning of September? Is it really possible to deprive yourself of the joy of having variety in the garden, not only fruit trees, but also beautiful shrubs, bright colors?
For nothing!!! In practice (rarely when I have time to do all the work in the best possible time!) I was convinced that adult bushes of ornamental crops can be transplanted with leaves and even with flowers. If you need it, then you need it!
It is important to follow only a few rules.
First, choose right place for spirea. Almost all species and varieties love a sunny place, although Grefsheim and other species that bloom in spring can also tolerate light partial shade from large trees (it also appears when these spireas are almost fading).
Secondly, clearly mark the landing sites, taking into account what diameter and height this or that species or variety reaches. Spirea Grefsheim by the age of 10 reaches a diameter of 2 m, and little princess only 70-80 cm.
Thirdly, prepare the soil and planting holes at least 3-4 days before planting. Here it must be taken into account that heavy soils will have to be loosened with sand and peat, and light soils will have to be "weighted" by adding moisture-retaining materials, for example, finely lumpy clay. Acidic soils need to be limed, but not zealous, because Billard's spirea and all its hybrids do not grow well on calcareous soils. The heavier the soil, the larger the drainage layer should be: from 5 cm on light to 20 cm on clay.
A pit for planting needs to be dug about a third more than an earthen clod of a transplanted plant. But when planting, you need to take into account that the root neck should be at the same level as in the old place.
It is very important to transplant an adult plant in cloudy weather and stock up on an old sheet.
The work algorithm is as follows:
1. The pit was dug out and filled with phosphorus-potassium fertilizer in 3-4 days.
2. Toward evening, we pour water into the pit, at the same time we water the plant that we will transplant.
3. We dig up the plant, stepping back from the root collar 15-20 cm along the perimeter. Carefully cut the roots and take them out together with an earthen clod. If the bush is large, then we immediately lay it on a piece of film or cloth and transfer it to the landing pit.
4. We lower the seedling into the planting hole and control the level of the root collar. If necessary, add soil under the roots, or slightly select the earth from the bottom of the pit.
5. Filling up the planting hole garden soil, lightly trampling the ground. We water the plant with water with the addition of root. We mulch the trunk circle with a thick layer of peat or humus (5-7 cm).
6. Install around the perimeter of the bush 3-4 pegs as high as the bush itself.
7. We wet an old sheet or a large piece of gauze in water, wring it out a little and cover the bush completely, pulling it over the pegs. We fix the fabric near the ground so that it does not blow away by the wind.
8. For 3-4 days daily, and in hot dry weather 2-3 times a day we moisten with water.
9. Then in the evening we remove the fabric and let the spirea grow freely. True, it will be necessary to water regularly for a month, because the roots of the plant are damaged and they themselves cannot fully provide the plant with moisture.
If you transplant spirea during the flowering period, it is better to cut off the inflorescences. For summer bloomers, this technique will cause a re-bloom, and for spring bloomers, more abundant blooms next spring.

Like many other shrubs and trees with a spreading crown, adult forsythia does not tolerate transplantation, so it is very important to choose a permanent place for it right away. But if you still have to transplant an adult forsythia plant, then it is better to do it in the spring. In more southern areas, you can transplant bushes in the fall, but you need to let the plant take root before the onset of frost.

Glushanina Ludmila / Myproplants.com

Gardeners recommend transplanting only young forsythia plants, preferably in the first year of life. After all, this is a fast-growing shrub, reaching its maximum dimensions in a few years. Older bushes are difficult to dig up and move to a new location without damage.

To estimate how far the roots of a shrub extend underground, draw a circle by the size of its crown on the ground. This will allow you to understand how far you need to retreat from the center of the bush so that there is minimal damage to the roots when digging. The crown of the shrub should be tied if possible.

Giris Olga / Myproplants.com

The bush is dug around the intended circumference, gradually deepening and trying not to damage the roots. Long roots that extend beyond the trench should be chopped off with a sharp tool or cut with pruning shears. When the forsythia is almost dug up, the bush with an earthy clod is carefully transferred to a cloth or tarp spread nearby. The ends of the fabric are tied tightly around the bush so that the soil does not sprinkle. In this form, they are transferred or transported to a new place.

Elvert Barnes/Flickr.com

A pit at a new landing site is prepared up to 1.0 m deep and 50-60 cm wider than the diameter of the earth clod. If the soil in the new location is poor, then the depth and width of the planting hole should be increased. At the bottom of the pit, drainage is made of crushed stone and sand, on which a soil mixture of humus, hardwood and sand is poured in a ratio of 1: 1: 2. A bush with a clod of earth is installed in the center of the pit so that the root collar is 10-15 cm above ground level. The space between the clod of earth and the edges of the pit is filled with a nutrient soil mixture and rammed. After the earth shrinks in the pit, the plant will be at the right level.

The bush is fixed in an upright position with the help of stakes and braces, which must be removed after the plant has taken root. Around the trunk you need to make a ring of soil that will hold water. After planting, the forsythia must be well watered, and then the soil in the near-stem circle must be kept moist for 1-1.5 months. Fertilizer and loosening of tree trunks are carried out in the usual way.

Elvert Barnes/Flickr.com

There is controversy over whether to prune the branches and roots of forsythia when transplanting. Branches are cut to match the above-ground and underground masses. If a lot of roots were lost in the process of digging, then there should be pruning of branches. Sections of roots with a large diameter of more than 2 cm are treated with garden putty or clay with the addition of a growth stimulator.

Forsythia bushes take root in a new place quickly, but transplanting them can give you a lot of trouble.