How to make a roof from a metal tile. How to cover the roof with a metal tile with your own hands? Roofs of houses covered with metal tiles

The roof of a house can "tell" a lot about its owners. This architectural element is probably the first to catch the eye, creating a certain opinion about the whole structure in advance. It is not surprising that the issue of roof design is always given the most attention. increased attention especially now that there are so many different options out there.

They always looked very advantageous, and even now they look at houses covered with a tiled roof - they are distinguished by special accuracy and impressiveness. But here's the real problem ceramic tiles it is very expensive, and its installation can in no way be classified as cheap or easy to do on your own technological processes. That is why a very reasonable solution would be to purchase a metal roof for your home, which very reliably imitates tiled masonry. And if you still carefully figure out how to properly use metal tiles on your own, without involving a team of specialists, then you can get for a very moderate amount excellent roof, which will be reliable and, in addition, will become a real decoration of housing.

Creating such a roof with metal-tiled coating can be divided into several stages:

— correct selection material;

- calculation of the required amount of metal tiles and "consumables";

- preparation of the roof structure for roofing;

- flooring metal-tiled coatings;

- design of complex sections of the roof.

How to choose a metal tile?

It would seem that the question does not differ in severity and complexity - just choose the one that is most suitable for the planned design of the building. However, this is not quite true. may differ in its configuration, size, type of coverage, degree of protection, etc.

Structure metal-tiled sheet

First of all, you need to get an idea of what kind of layered structure this roofing material has.

The basis is always a metal (most often steel) sheet (pos. 1), with a thickness of 0.45 to 0.5 mm. It is he who holds the shape given to the tile, resists the coating.

Thicker steel sheets add unnecessary weight to the roof structure without any significant performance benefits. But it is better not to purchase a metal tile with a steel sheet with a thickness of 0.4 mm or less - such a coating can quickly jam during installation, or during operation under even a not very heavy load.

Expensive models of metal tiles can be made of aluminum or even copper, but due to the high price they are not in great demand.

To prevent oxidation of the steel sheet, it is coated on both sides with an anti-corrosion layer (item 2). It can be the usual "galvanization" or a more perfect aluminum-zinc coating.
On both sides of the galvanized metal in a high-quality metal tile, the so-called passivating layer (pos. 3) is necessarily applied - based on silicon dioxide or phosphate compounds. This layer almost completely eliminates the occurrence of chemical oxidative reactions.
Further, also on both sides, there is a layer of epoxy primer. (pos. 4) This gives additional protection to the metal base and ensures reliable adhesion of all other decorative and protective layers.
From the back, the sheets have an acrylic or polyester coating (item 5). It, in principle, does not perform a decorative function, and serves only as a reliable protective line.
From the outside, a certain decorative polymer coating (pos. 6) is applied to the sheets, which largely determines both the class and the cost of the metal tile.
In some types of roofing material, additional layers are also used. For example, a layer of basalt chips (item 7) can be applied, giving the coating a look that is as close to natural as possible. There are models with a printed pattern, for one or another natural structure, or even with a fantasy pattern. But with additional decorative design of metal tiles, an external transparent coating is always used (for example, acrylate), resistant to abrasive loading and ultraviolet rays (pos. 8).

Varieties of external coating

The most common and inexpensive - polyester coating, glossy ...

The most inexpensive, and therefore the most widespreadamong average builders, is a polyester coating. He always has bright, saturated colors, in the richest variety. Suitable for almost any Russian climatic zones. The disadvantage is not too "outstanding" durability, although 10 — Manufacturers, as a rule, guarantee 15 years without loss of external qualities.

… or matte

The introduction of a Teflon component into polyester paint and varnish compositions leads to the production of metal tiles with a matte polyester coating. Perhaps, in contrast to pure polyester, there is a slight surface roughness, on which a trace of mechanical damage (scratches) or areas of paint fading in the sun will be much less noticeable. Such a metal tile should last much longer - up to 25 - 30 years.

The densest and thickest coating (up to 200 microns thick) is plastisol. Its main component is ordinary polyvinyl chloride (PVC). Such a metal tile has excellent qualities in terms of the mechanical strength of the coating, but with the temperature range of operation it is worse here - plastisol does not like either too low, negative, or high temperatures, more than + 60 degrees. And an important advantage of such a coating is the possibility of giving it a micro-relief structure, imitation of the texture of leather, wood, natural stone, etc.

One of the most modern and reliable coatings is puralcreated on the basis of polyurethane. He has an enviable service life, over 30 years, almost complete corrosion invulnerability, immunity to ultraviolet rays. The only serious disadvantage of metal tiles with a pural coating is the high price.

The most wear-resistant and durable - PVDF coating

And the biggest "aristocrat" among the coatings of metal tiles is composite, based on polyvinyl difluoride(up to 80%) and acrylic resins (about 20%). Such a composition is often referred to by the abbreviation PVDF (PVDF). Such material is not afraid of either serious mechanical stress or hot direct sunlight. (it won't fade) nor aggressive external environment - the best choice for regions with high humidity, for example, on the sea coast. PVDF coating always looks fresh, as it self-cleans very well under the influence of atmospheric precipitation.

The main operational characteristics of metal tile coatings are summarized for convenience in the following table:

Specifications metal tile coverings	Polyester	Matte polyester	Plastisol	PVDF	Pural
Corrosion resistance	Satisfactory	Good	Good	Good	Excellent
Coating poasticity	Satisfactory	Satisfactory	Good	Good	Good
UV resistance	Good	Very good	Good	Excellent	Very good
Consistent "freshness" appearance	Satisfactory	Good	Good	Good	Good
Coating thickness (µm)	25	35	100 - 200	28	50
Operating temperature - maximum (°С)	+120	+120	+60	+120	+120
Operating temperature - minimum (°C)	-10	-10	+10	-10	-10

The coating of the metal tile can be monochrome, or it can have any pattern made using the Printtech technology.

Drawings based on "Printech" technology

This is also a polyester coating, but with applied imitation of masonry, shingles, and other natural materials. On the one hand, of course, it looks original, but if you place such a roof at the level of the third floor and above, then all meaning is lost, since such a coating will no longer look at a great distance. Therefore, most often such decoration is used for corrugated board used for fences or facade work.

Slightly blurred "cloudy" pattern gives a special look to the roof

Another type of decoration is rapidly gaining popularity metal-tiled roofs - use of "cloudy" technology. Such a surface is distinguished by fuzzy, blurred forms of the applied color shade, as if the roof was “touched by time” or covered with a “noble patina”. Literally, the name translates as "cloudy", which, in principle, in fully describes this visual effect.

Another type of coating is "Terra Plegel", with a pronounced rough external texture, almost indistinguishable from a distance from natural clay tiles. Such a roof looks extremely original, but the price of the material is high. In addition, there are two things to keep in mind. On such a roof slope, dust, dirt, foliage, etc. will accumulate to a greater extent. And secondly, if an ordinary metal tile exerts a specific pressure on the roof truss system of about 5 kg / m², then Terra Plegel will give all 8 kg / m², which will require a more reinforced structure.

Most common models of metal tiles and their linear dimensions

Before you calculate the total estimate for covering the roof with a metal tile, you must immediately decide on its model. The fact is that different types this roofing material can have different linear dimensions, overlapping areas of adjacent sheets, profile height, number of waves, etc.

The variety of types of metal tiles, even without taking into account its color design, is quite large. Consider some of the most popular models:

"Cascade" is a metal tile that will suit lovers of clear geometric shapes. The drawing for the roofing will resemble a large "chocolate bar". This profile is most convenient for large-sized roof structures that are not full of small and complex fragments. .

The strict geometric forms of the "Cascade" ...

"Cascade" is considered the most convenient option and from the point of view of cost-effectiveness of use - its useful area, due to a small overlap, is the most significant.

... and sheet options

Important note: the above diagram with the linear dimensions of the "cascade" - the length and width of each "tile", the height of the wave and the stepped difference, the total and useful width of the sheet, etc., is not at all mandatory for all coatings of this type. For different manufacturers, these indicators can vary significantly, and it will be necessary to take real parameters characteristic of a particular material as a basis for calculations. This applies to all models of metal tiles - the diagrams are given only as an example.

The "palm" in popularity, along with the "cascade", is firmly held by the "monterrey" metal tile.

Monterrey metal tile is very popular

It is characterized by rounded, somewhat asymmetrical shapes that look great on any slopes, perfectly conveying the atmosphere of the old classic tiles.

andalusia" is a profile with steep, symmetrical, rounded waves.

Andalusian parameters

Well suited for buildings made in the style of "southern Europe". Some varieties of this model are accompanied by a system hidden fasteners for installation without damaging the surface.

The modern model largely repeats the monterrey profile, but differs from it in more straightened geometric shapes.

Metal tile "modern"

A very beautiful, voluminous picture of the roof is given by the “banga” metal tile with a pronounced high profile.

The roof with "banga" tiles looks very nice

As a drawback, it can be noted that this is one of the most “uneconomical” models in terms of the useful sheet width.

"Joker" - a metal tile with smooth symmetrical waves with a pointed upper ridge. Gives the roof the effect of a classic "Old European" house ».

Profile and dimensions of the metal tile "Joker"

And for those who want to give their structure an oriental flavor, we can advise shanghai metal tile with characteristic stripes along the bottom of a large rounded wave.

For lovers of oriental flavor - profile "shanghai"

When choosing a metal tile, it is also necessary to take into account the fact that the height of the profile directly affects the rigidity and stability of the coating - the higher the wave, the stronger the material. But, on the other hand, the higher the coating profile, the smaller the useful area of the sheet.

At different manufacturers this parameter can vary significantly - from 22 ÷ 25 mm to 78 mm. The most popular models are characterized by a height in the range of 40 - 50 mm.

Now - about the length of the sheets. Each model has its own dimensions of one "tile", that is, a longitudinal row. This, basically, predetermines the possibility of cutting blanks into one or another linear size, so there are certain restrictions along the line cutting. So, for example, absolutely unacceptable cut straight along the stepped transition between the rows.

Ideally, the line should run in the center of the row. or with some minimum indentation specified for each model (for example, 40 — 50 mm). By the way, even tables of unacceptable sizes have been developed for some types of metal tiles. - this can be found in the technical documentation.

Accordingly, each model has its own minimum sheet size - it varies from 0.45 to 0.8 meters. The maximum length is limited by the technological features of the manufacturer's equipment and transportation capabilities finished material without the risk of deformation. Usually the maximum length lies within 6 (rarely - 8) meters. Responsible companies involved in the production and sale of metal tiles, as a rule, include in the list of their services the cutting of roofing material according to the size of the customer.

Prices for different types of tiles

Roof tiles

How to calculate the required amount of metal tiles

One of the most crucial moments in a series of flooring events metal-tiled roofing - the correct calculation of the required amount of material.

The easiest way in this case is to use the services of companies involved in the production and sale of metal tiles - they probably have special software for each model of coverage. It will be enough to very accurately measure the dimensions of the roof structure, and on this basis, the number of required sheets and the length of each of them will be calculated, taking into account longitudinal and transverse overlaps, cornice overhangs, etc.

If for some reason this service is not available, you can try to find specialized calculator programs on the Internet and use them to calculate the amount of material online. The error in this case, of course, will be greater.

Self-calculation of metal tiles is not an easy task

The most difficult option is an independent calculation of the roof structure. If the landlord decides to take such a step, then he must mobilize all his attentiveness and accuracy, mathematical abilities and spatial imagination.

Approach the calculation of the required amount of metal tiles from the standpoint of calculating the total area of the roof and tasks certain a reserve (in percent), such as practiced on floor coverings, will not work. There are a number of reasons for this:

The tile has a clear spatial orientation, and cuttings from one place can not always be used in another, for example, they cannot be turned over “mirror-like”.
The wavy shape in the longitudinal and transverse directions significantly narrows the possibility of using cut-off fragments without disturbing the overall pattern of the roof.
This is also hampered by the need for minimum longitudinal and transverse overlaps of neighboring sections established by technology.

First of all, you need to measure all the parameters of the roof with the highest accuracy. This will not be difficult, for example, on a conventional gable or shed roof, but if the truss system has a hip or tent structure, is replete with additional architectural elements - spiers, turrets, and the like, then you will have to tinker a lot. Moreover, not only linear dimensions, but also the exact angles of the resulting figures will be of great importance.

As a result, each of the slopes, each plane of the roof will receive its image on paper in the plan, in the form of a two-dimensional figure with clearly marked dimensions, sustained on a certain scale.

The entire roof is "laid out" along the slopes

The calculation of sheets and their length is carried out for each section individually. And the geometric shapes of the plots are very diverse - from rectangles and triangles to trapezoids or parallelograms with very complex curved edges and additional cutouts.

The easiest way, of course, is to calculate the material for a rectangular slope.

In fact, here only the length and width of the section are involved in the calculations, taking into account the exit to the cornice (in this example, B = 50 mm) and the necessary overlap between the sheets in height (C = 150 mm). In this case, the length of the bottom sheet must be a multiple of the wave pitch (for example, 350 mm) plus 150 mm for overlap. The top sheet is cut along the ridge and will be hidden by the ridge overlay.

If the slope height (A) allows you to cover with one sheet, then this parameter C is simply not taken into account.

And it is not difficult to calculate the number of sheets in length - the length of the section is divided by the useful width of the sheet and rounded up to the nearest integer. For example, for a six-meter section with a usable width of 1100 mm, it will turn out: 6000: 1100 \u003d 5.45 sheets, that is, 6 whole sheets.

On a separate sheet of paper, you can immediately mark the number and the size of the metal will go to waste. It is possible that they can be used on another section of the roof. However, the owner of the house must be prepared for the fact that a lot of material will go to waste.

The situation is more complicated with triangular sections - they must be filled in the diagram in such a way as to minimize waste, but completely close the entire plane without disturbing the pattern:

Very often there are options for a rectangular slope with a triangular cut:

On the roofs of a fanciful configuration, even more complex figures can turn out:

Usually, the work is carried out in such a way that, first, entire rectangular sections are filled in the diagrams. Then they already move on to the remaining, not blocked sections - it will be easier to imagine whether it will be possible and where to use the cut off fragment.
All drawings with calculations must be worked out with the utmost accuracy and clarity - they will subsequently become the main assembly guide for installation roofing.
When calculating the required material, one should never lose sight of necessary the number of additional elements. So, for sure, you will need cornice and end strips, ridge linings, external and internal valleys, adjoining strips to walls, plugs, snow-retaining barriers and other details.

When determining the number of additional elements, they usually focus on the need to create a 5% reserve for their linear dimensions.

By the way, due to inexperience, many homeowners miss the cost of additional elements during the initial estimate of the cost of the roof. Meanwhile, practice shows that these details take up to 30% of the total estimate.

The next question is the type and number of screws required for installation.

As a rule, self-tapping screws made of high-quality galvanized steel are used for metal tiles. There is always a press washer with a sealing gasket made of resistant EPDM rubber. Really branded fasteners always have the brand of the manufacturer on the hat.

Self-tapping screws are produced in a wide variety of shades of powder paint, which covers the hexagon head and the front side of the press washer - there is always the possibility of selecting fasteners that are most suitable in color to the roofing material.

The diagram shows the main technical parameters of roofing screws:

When installing metal tiles, the following main dimensions are usually used:

To fasten the sheets to the bottom of the wave (the main method of fixation), self-tapping screws 4.8 × 28 or 4.8 × 35 mm are used.
For fastening metal sheets to each other - self-tapping screws 4.8 × 20 mm.
To fix the additional elements of the roof, you will need self-tapping screws 4.8 × 50 or 4.8 × 70 mm.

The number of screws may vary. Usually, the installation instructions for a particular type of metal tile indicate the layout of the fasteners. Moreover, some manufacturers of roofing materials lay the required number of self-tapping screws in the kit for the coating, in a certain proportion to the area and the number of joints between the sheets. In any case, you need to be prepared for the fact that during the installation process it will take up to 10 self-tapping screws per square meter Spare the square.

Self-tapping screws have a tip in the form of a drill, which, in principle, makes it possible to do without pre-drilling the roofing material. However, as practice shows, there are times when it is more reliable from the point of view of fixation strength and from the standpoint of maintaining the integrity of the coating from scratches, to carry out preliminary drilling in the right place. To do this, you need to have a drill with a diameter of 2.8 to 3 mm on hand (no more, otherwise the reliability of fastening is not guaranteed).

Video: the choice of self-tapping screws for mounting metal tiles

Preparing the roof structure for decking metal tiles

- an excellent material for roofing, but it is not not set absolutely no thermal insulation function. Therefore, such a coating is almost always laid on the roof where Prior to this, measures were taken to warm it up.

It is not necessary to focus too much attention at this stage in this article - the issues are discussed in great detail in the corresponding publication of our portal. That's why confine ourselves to those elements that skew above truss system.

So, on top of the layer of thermal insulation material, located between the rafter legs, a waterproofing film is necessarily laid.

It is laid in horizontal stripes. upwards, with an overlap of at least 150 mm between adjacent sheets. Initially, a sag of about 20 - 30 mm is left on the cornice. For some films, an important condition is that the sides are correctly positioned - there is a color marking that should look up.

The film material is fixed to the rafters with slats or bars of the counter-lattice, with the exception of small area near the cornice overhang - here the guide of the initial crate and the cornice strip must first be installed. The film should come out over these elements.

After mounting the counter-lattice, guide battens are installed. For them, boards with a width of 100 mm, a thickness of 25 - 30 mm are used. The step between the guides depends on the specific model of the metal tile and is usually indicated in the technical documentation for a specific type of roofing material. For example, the figure shows several options for the most popular metal tile models:

At the same time, the initial lath of the crate is always higher than the others (it is assembled from two laths), and the step between it and the second rail is reduced by 50 mm.

At the junction of slopes, around pipes or skylights, at the attachment points snow-retaining elements is performed continuous crate, as additional parts will be attached here. Necessarily, regardless of the step of the crate, two solid boards are mounted for attaching the ridge lining. Planks are fastened from the ends of the roof, which should be higher than the common crate by the height of the metal tile profile.

Usually the installation, in fact, of the cornice strip and roofing precedes the installation of elements of the drainage system, in particular, brackets for the subsequent fastening of drainage gutters on them. You can read more about how to do this correctly in our publication on issues.

After the crate is ready, the starting cornice rails and other elements provided for by the roof structure are mounted, you can proceed to installation metal-tiled coatings.

Installation of sheets of metal

It should immediately be noted that any work at height requires special precautions and insurance. A scheme should be provided for feeding the material up, so as not to jam the sheets - usually, for this, peculiar guides - skids from flat boards.

Work should be carried out in shoes with soft, preferably rubber soles that do not leave black marks on the surface. You can step only on the bottom of the wave in the places where the guides of the crate pass.

Requires a tool to work nt for cutting sheets of metal. There is no question of any grinder - this tool is especially capable of damaging the structure of the metal in the area cutting, and a polymer coating from numerous sparks. Cutting is carried out using a circular electric saw, hand or electric scissors, sometimes you can resort to a conventional hacksaw.

Directly for fastening the sheets, you will need a drill, a screwdriver with an 8 mm hex socket. You will need a long rail - as a ruler to control the evenness of the location of the sheets of metal. A massive metal ruler (linden rule) will not be very convenient here, and besides, it can scratch the surface. For the same reason, as a measuring tool, you need to use a tape measure not with a metal, but with a cloth tape.

Sheets are prepared and they are carried out in accordance with the schemes according to which the material was calculated. Installation is always upwards and usually in the direction from right to left - in this case, each subsequent sheet covers the previous one. If there is a need to mount in the opposite direction, from left to right, then the sheet etc It is necessary to slip under the already installed one.

If it has an angular shape, then it is more convenient to start with covering entire sections or a sheet with a maximum height, and then move on to the fragments on the left and right. But at the same time, the correct order of placing the sheets is necessarily taken into account - where they need to be laid on top, and where - slip under the already mounted one.

According to what scheme are screws screwed in? There is no consensus here, since manufacturers often accompany their materials with layouts for fasteners, and they can vary significantly. So, in particular, it is recommended to mount some profiles along the starting guide battens in each lower wave, and in other cases, you can meet recommendations - through the wave. In any case, it is always necessary to study the technical documentation of the metal tile with special attention beforehand.

The first sheet is initially aligned along the edge of the eaves and temporarily fixed with one self-tapping screw from above (near the ridge) centered on bottom of the wave. Then the second sheet of the same horizontal row is installed, the necessary overlap is performed. The second sheet is also aligned along the eaves, and then, through fastening through both sheets, they are twisted together along the top of the wave in the overlap area on the lower “tile”. In this case, a short self-tapping screw is used, so that there is no fixation to the crate in this place. It remains once again to very accurately align the edges of both sheets already fastened together, and then carry out their final fixation to the crate with self-tapping screws along the bottom of the wave.

Self-tapping screws are usually staggered, although, as already mentioned, manufacturers may recommend an individual, highly specific fastener pattern. For example, two different options for fixing sheets of metal tiles:

Before proceeding to the final fastening of the roofing material, it is required to correctly set the tightening torque of the self-tapping screw. If it is loosely tightened, the sealing gum will not securely block the hole from moisture penetration. An excessively high tightening torque is no less dangerous - the washer can bend upwards, which will also lead to poor fit of the gasket, and in addition - to possible deformation of the sheet or even to turning the self-tapping screw in the wooden base of the crate - which means that there may not be a quality connection here to be. How to properly tighten the self-tapping screw is shown in the diagram.

You can first practice on scraps of metal and laths of the crate to expose the most optimal tightening force.

Distortions of self-tapping screws - unacceptable

No less dangerous is the incorrect location of the self-tapping screw in relation to the guide battens. The fastener should be screwed in exclusively perpendicularly, trying to avoid even a slight distortion.

Installation of individual roof elements

If there are usually no problems with the flooring of straight sections after the hand is stuffed, then some structural elements may require special attention. Even if we do not consider specific complex nodes, such as skylights or external stairs, then end sections, ridge joints, reverse corners or chimneys are present on almost any roof.

Improper installation of these sections will lead to leakage, and the roof of the house will look extremely sloppy.

The end plate is installed in order to protect the roofing from the effects of side wind, which is why it is often called wind. It is fastened with nails or self-tapping screws to the wooden parts of the crate on the side and top. If several planks are used, then their overlap with each other should be of the order of 70 - 100 mm.

The ridge strip should be mounted as tightly as possible to prevent precipitation from entering the joint between two slopes, but at the same time, normal air circulation from the ridge space to the outside must be ensured to avoid condensation.

Particular attention to the ridge knot

Ridge bars can be rounded or angled. They are fastened with the obligatory installation of sealing material between them and the surface of the metal tile. Fixation is carried out with long self-tapping screws through the plank, the flooring into the batten guide along the top of the wave, with a step of about 300 - 400 mm. When using several planks, they are given an overlap of 100 mm.

The same ridge profiles are installed on all external "fractures" of the roof, for example, along the corner joints of the hip roof edges.

To adjoin vertical surfaces, in particular, to chimney brick pipes, special profiles are used - they are called so, adjoining strips.

To ensure reliable waterproofing of the area in the area of the pipe, at first, even before the metal tile flooring, a solid steel sheet is fastened from the brickwork on the surface of the continuous crate (it is often called a “tie”). He must go on to the cornice overhang or to the nearest valley. It is advisable to provide a "tie" with small sides on both sides to prevent even accidental water leakage when it penetrates under the roof.

Then, along the perimeter of the pipe, a lower abutment (aprons) is installed. The existing protrusions of the slats are recessed into the ones made in brickwork strobes and sealed with sealant.

Then the roofing is made metal-tiled coatings. And on top of it, the upper adjoining strips are installed on the screws, which are also recessed into the masonry with their protrusions.

If the roof slope at its upper point adjoins a vertical solid wall, then the joint is formed with the same planks and using the same technology.

Internal fractures of the roof, where the descending slopes of the roof meet, are finished with special profile elements called valleys.

As already mentioned, a continuous crate is always made in this area. Previously, even before the flooring of the roofing itself, an internal valley is installed along the entire length of this internal corner, up to the cornice overhang. A solid rubber seal can be installed between the profile and wooden parts.

Then the metal tile flooring is made in accordance with the scheme. And the next step, in order to give the structure a finished and neat look, an external valley is mounted. By the way, many experienced roofers do not recommend installing an external valley - a huge amount of dirt and dry leaves are always clogged under it, interfering with the normal flow of water.

After all roofing installation work is completed, it is necessary to carefully remove the remaining metal filings from the surface, which can be formed when screwing screws or trimming parts in place. The protective film coating, if any, must be removed from the metal tile. Areas where pure metal is visible, such as areas cutting must be treated with a protective paint of the appropriate color. - it should be offered when buying a metal tile.

Video: detailed video tutorial on installation metal-tiled roofing

A metal roof is the safety and durability that every person needs so much. Roofing made of metal profiles does not leak, does not rust and retains an attractive appearance for many years without requiring frequent and complex repairs. Considering the relative cheapness of this material, many owners of houses under construction prefer to save on installation services and think about how to cover the roof with metal tiles with their own hands, without resorting to the help of firms and construction teams. If you follow the technology and instructions, self-assembly is not difficult.

In this article

General information, benefits and features

The metal profile gained its popularity due to the qualities that give it an advantage over other familiar materials. The main advantages of the profile are:

low weight of the structure, which reduces the load on the foundation;
extreme strength, durability;
ease of installation and further operation;
ease of transportation;
visual appeal and diversity colors, a large number of forms and design solutions;
no need for additional coloring.

Another advantage of metal tiles is the low price of the material. If you know how much it costs to cover the roof with metal tiles, resorting to the help of specialized companies, then in the case of self-assembly, in terms of one square meter, this figure will be significantly reduced.

What you need to know before starting installation work?

It should be remembered that the metal tile, as a material, is very flexible, subject to deformations with careless handling. Despite the strength and ability to resist atmospheric influences, metal sheets are easily bent, becoming unsuitable for further use. To keep the sheets in good condition, they should be handled with care when transporting, unloading, mounting or storing.

Sheets of metal tiles are transported using a truck specially designed for this purpose. Or having a body length not less than or equal to the length of the sheet. To guarantee the sheets should be overlaid with cushioning material, especially if there are doubts about the quality pavement. This will allow you to be sure of the quality of delivery. Upon arrival at the installation site, the metal tile should be checked for possible damage and deformation again.
Unloading is carried out using a crane with soft slings or manually. In the latter case, at least 3-4 people should take part in unloading, who hold the sheet on both sides in a strictly vertical position, preventing it from bending. Sheets should be carried with great care, holding from above and below. It is better to do this in tight gloves, as there is a danger of cutting yourself on sharp edges.
It is not worth storing an unpacked metal tile for more than a month and a half: under the pressure of the upper ones, the lower sheets can be deformed. If long-term storage is necessary, the packaging must be removed, and the profiles should be shifted with wooden blocks at a distance of 50 centimeters from each other. Immediately before covering the roof with metal tiles, it is necessary to additionally check the profiles for possible damage.

To work, you will need certain tools and a certain amount of skills in the construction business. You should prepare a tape measure and a pencil, a screwdriver and self-tapping screws, nails and a hammer, wooden planks, beams, adhesive tape and materials for thermal and waterproofing. A construction stapler, a hacksaw and a grinder with a special disc designed for cutting metal tiles may also come in handy. It is absolutely impossible to cut it by any means leading to surface heating: the profiles are covered with anti-corrosion paint, which is destroyed during heating and can provoke rapid corrosion of the entire surface.

Roof preparation

In order not to be mistaken with the amount of material in the process of acquiring metal tiles, you need to make the right calculation before covering the roof. When measuring the height and width of the roof slope, one should take into account the overlap of each sheet on the other in the amount of 15 cm. It should also be taken into account that the length of the flooring should exceed the length of the rafters by 4-5 cm, forming a small canopy, which provides additional ventilation of the room.

Before you cover the roof with a metal tile with your own hands, you need to make sure that the roof slope has an even rectangular shape. To do this, the diagonals of the slope are measured from the bottom corner to the opposite top corner. In the case when there is a difference in the length of the sides, it is eliminated with the help of a crate. Step-by-step instructions for installing the crate will be given below. If it is not possible to eliminate the difference in length, you will have to directly adjust the shape of the metal profile sheets.

From correct installation battens will depend on the service life of the roof, and how well the roof can withstand gusts of wind and other natural loads. Therefore, the installation of rafters and battens should be given Special attention.

Rafter bars must have a cross section of at least 150 by 50 mm.
The distance between the rafters is set in accordance with the width of the metal sheet - within 60 - 90 cm.
The dimensions of the boards intended for the crate are selected within 100x25x50 mm.
Additional parts provided for by the roof structure - a ridge, a cornice overhang, parts adjacent to the attic windows and a chimney. They must be installed at the stage of installation of the crate before covering the roof with metal tiles.

Hydro and thermal insulation

Waterproofing and attic ventilation are important conditions that should be given maximum attention when installing a roof. Many of those who build their own house often use the attic space as a living space. In this case, protection from the cold is also necessary - roof insulation (insulation material is laid under the rafters). This information is the most important part of any guide on how to properly cover the roof with metal tiles, because timely measures to protect the roof prevent such unpleasant consequences as wood rotting, condensation and the spread of fungus. As a protective material, it is preferable to use a waterproofing membrane in rolls, which is laid on the rafters with an overlap of at least 15 cm and fastened with a stapler. The membrane is laid with the absorbent side down to prevent condensation. The order of laying the covering film: from the bottom up, moving from the cornice strip to the roof ridge.

There are several ways to arrange ventilation:

ventilation holes provided near the roof ridge;
ventilation in the roof lining;
ventilation gaps between the layers of metal tiles and the waterproofing membrane.

After all are done preparatory work, measurements have been made, a crate and a waterproofing system have been installed, you can proceed with the installation of the roof. Knowing how to properly cover a roof with a metal tile, or being guided by instructions, anyone with a minimum of building experience will install a roof without problems.

Sheets are attached to the crate with self-tapping screws and screws in strict sequence. Wherein gable roof it is necessary to cover, starting from the end, and the tent-shaped roof from the top of the frame. Having completed the installation of the cornice strip, the first few sheets are fixed with one screw and aligned with the cornice. Overlapped sheets must be fully joined to one another. The sheets are connected to each other and to the crate with self-tapping screws, the total number of which is taken at the rate of 6-7 pieces per 1 sq. m.

Roof covering with metal tiles is carried out in order from bottom to top. A ridge strip is installed on the roof ridge, and end strips are attached to the sheet with self-tapping screws at the ends. The slats play the role of wind protection, preventing the roof from being torn off during gusts. Adjacent strips in places where the chimney and skylights will stand are mounted before the installation of metal tile profiles and sealed to prevent the penetration of moisture and cold.

Having done all the work correctly, paying attention to the features of the shape of the roof and other nuances, adhering to the installation sequence, you will achieve good results, and the metal roof will serve long years without requiring any special care or repair.

The metal tile is an engineering and technical "alloy" of steel strength and the aesthetics of traditional roofing ceramics. Lightweight profiled sheets practically do not affect the weight of the building and delight installers with convenient dimensions.

A sure plus in the piggy bank of material priorities is the ability to independently carry out the entire cycle of roofing work without the paid participation of builders. Only first you need to find out how the roof is made of metal tiles with your own hands, and learn about the rules and intricacies of the process of its construction.

The corrugated metal sheets of the now popular coating are equipped with double protection against atmospheric attacks. Steel profiled blanks are first immersed in hot zinc tanks, which forms an anti-corrosion film on the surface. Then the outer side of the material is covered with a colored polymer shell that performs aesthetic and protective functions.

However, both degrees of protection will not be able to withstand the attacks of precipitation and household fumes if the roofing pie is arranged with violations and errors. In the space under the coating, condensate will begin to accumulate, which will slowly but surely get to the metal. The insulation will get wet and lose its insulating qualities. Wooden elements get wet, as a result of which they rot.

Rely completely on a light weight and an impressive area of \u200b\u200bsheets of material is also not worth it: both the rafter system must be strong enough, and the crate is needed such that each element is fixed at the required number of points. Therefore, you should properly prepare for the self-assembly of metal tiles, i.e. get acquainted with the nuances of the construction of the truss structure, battens and roofing cake.

Rafter system and crate

Metal tiles are used in the arrangement of cold and insulated roofs. The truss system for the cold type can be built from steel or aluminum elements. But wood is still a priority, because it is easier to attach coating sheets to it. Insulated structures require more powerful roof trusses, because thermal insulation will be located between their legs. The use of metal in such situations is impractical, so warm roofs are arranged along wooden rafters with a crate.

Note that the installation of a roof made of metal tiles is possible on pitched roofs ah with a minimum slope of 14º. The slope of the roofs is from 15º to 20º.

In the construction of the truss system for warm roof with metal tiles there are rules, these are:

The step between the rafter legs should not exceed 90 cm. The minimum distance between the rafters is 60 cm. If the step of the existing truss system is greater than the specified upper limit, an additional crate is arranged from a transversely installed board.
The rafter system is arranged from a board 50 mm thick. The recommended board height is 100 or 150 mm depending on the thickness of the thermal insulation.
Laid in a spacer between the rafter legs should not come into contact with traditional waterproofing. If the thickness of the insulation is equal to the transverse height of the board used in the device of the truss structure, then an additional counter-rail of 30 × 50 or 50 × 50 is stuffed onto the rafters along their direction. It will create a gap of 3-5cm.

In order to ensure ventilation of wooden elements, it is advisable to drill holes Ø 2-2.5 cm in the rafter legs from the side. The formation of holes is an optional procedure, but strongly recommended by metal tile manufacturers. If there are concerns about the weakening of the structure, they are advised to place them closer to the ridge in two or three rows with a step of 30 cm.

Before the construction of the crate, which works as the basis for fastening the sheets, the geometric parameters of the truss system should be checked. Measure and verify the length of the diagonals of rectangular slopes. On the mansard roofs the length of the diagonals of each part of the slope separately. You need to control the horizontal position of the overhangs and the ridge, as well as the location of the outer surface of the rafter legs in the same plane. Timely detection of deviations in geometry will eliminate further errors.

After making sure that the roof trusses are geometrically flawless, you can proceed to the construction of the crate, in the device of which, by analogy, clear rules apply:

The first lath - the lowest rail on the overhang should be higher than the subsequent ordinary rails. For its construction, it is necessary to take a bar thicker than for ordinary laths. For example, for the bottom rail 50x50, and for all subsequent 30x50.
The initial rail of the crate should be clearly parallel to the line of the eaves.
The step between the first and second bars is 28 or 30cm. The step between subsequent rails is 30, 35 or 40 cm. the step is determined by the distance between the transverse waves of the metal tile.
In the process of installing the lathing, through penetrations through the roof are taken into account and fasteners for pipes are installed.
In the grooves, around the dormer windows, chimney, fan and other pipes, a continuous crate of boards is arranged.
In the upper part of the slopes, two boards are nailed to the rafters to ensure reliable fixation of the cornice strip. Boards are installed at a distance of 5 cm from each other.

Among other things, before installing the crate, all wooden components should be treated with an antiseptic and fire-fighting compound.

The crate plays not only the role of the basis for fastening the sheets, but at the same time performs another very important job. It forms ventilation channels through which air flows circulate from the overhang to the ridge, and provides a ventilation gap between the waterproofing layer and the coating.

Ventilation ducts must remain free so that air flows under the metal sheets without interference and also exits. From the side of the overhangs and from the side of the ridge, they are simply covered with perforated tape, which prevents dust and debris from entering the roofing pie.

Structural roof boards

Cornice boards are used to reinforce the slope and give it cruelty in case the roof is planned to be equipped with an organized drain or to hem overhangs with vinyl siding. In situations where filing is done with a corny board, there is no need to use board reinforcement.

Cornice boards are laid along the overhangs in the grooves pre-selected in the rafters. The dimensions of the grooves must correspond to the dimensions of the board so that the plane of the overhang remains unchanged and the height of the truss system does not increase. If it is planned to install long hooks used to fix the gutter, grooves are cut in the cornice board for their fastening. Hooks with a short leg are screwed only to the front board. They are used when the installation of a drainage system was not planned in advance and when repairing old roofs. The installation step of all types of hooks is equal to the step of the rafter legs.

The frontal board is used if the roof does not have an organized drain. It is attached to the ends of the rafters with galvanized nails. Serves as an element for fastening various roofing parts and accessories, including for hemming overhangs. The end board serves as the basis for the end plank, the latter covers the waterproofing laid over the board. In addition to the decorative function, the plank nailed to the end board prevents the roof from rattling.

Time to hem the overhangs

Coating manufacturers strongly advise to hem overhangs with valves specially produced for this purpose, such as KTV or Vilpe. For filing cornices, siding, profiled sheet or vinyl spotlights are recommended. Dobora are on sale with the application of connecting details and with the instruction. You can economically hem a board attached with a gap for roof ventilation.

The specifics of the roofing cake

The composition and structure of the roofing pie under the metal tile depends on whether the structure will be insulated or not. In the simplest non-insulated scheme, only a waterproofing film is used. A vapor barrier is used if the attic is supposed to be hemmed.

The insulated roofing cake includes three standard layers, these are:

Vapor barrier. It is located on the side of the future intake of household fumes, i.e. from within the truss system. Her job is to protect the insulation from steam. Strips of vapor barrier material are laid parallel to the overhangs with an overlap of 10-15 cm. They are attached to the rafters with a stapler, and in single canvas connected with adhesive tape. Between the inner lining of the attic and the vapor barrier, a gap should be created by installing the crate.
Thermal insulation. As a heater, mineral wool boards are most often used, the thickness of which is determined in accordance with the requirements of SNiP II-3-79. The material is installed at a distance between the rafter legs. To ensure the rigidity of the installation, the plates are cut with a width of 1.5-2 cm more than the distance between the rafters.
Waterproofing. It is needed as a barrier against atmospheric precipitation. They lay it on the outside of the truss system in front of the batten, they try to arrange it immediately after laying the insulation, so as not to get wet. waterproofing material it is laid, like a vapor barrier, in strips with a similar overlap and fastening methods.

The waterproofing layer is laid so that its canvas overlaps the lines of the walls along the perimeter by at least 20 cm. In the areas where the slopes join, in the valleys, laying is carried out with overlaps of 20-30 cm. Along the ridge line, the waterproofing must have a gap so as not to interfere with air circulation.

Important condition: bituminous water-repellent materials cannot be used as a waterproofing of a roofing cake when installing a roof made of metal tiles. Waterproofing must pass steam and condensate accumulated in the insulation.

The method of constructing a water-repellent layer depends on the material used:

The classic version of waterproofing is reinforced or unreinforced polyethylene film, which must be provided with two ventilation gaps. The first of them is formed by the truss system and is located between the insulation and the film, the second is formed by the crate and is located between the film and the roofing. The size of each of the gaps is 3-5cm.
The superdiffusion membrane can work fine with a single ventilation gap of 3-5cm. It is created between the membrane and the metal tile. When using a polymeric material, there is no point in breaking the contact between the waterproofing and the insulation. After all, the membrane is able to pass excess moisture out, preventing it from getting inside.
Anti-condensation materials with a fleecy surface designed to accumulate moisture. Their pile is quickly ventilated when washed with air, which should be provided with a path. That's why this option also needs dual-circuit ventilation, like the classic. It is mainly used in the arrangement of cold roofs.

All types insulating materials, except for polymer waterproofing, are laid with sagging. So it is necessary that when the film is pulled, it does not break. Only the membrane does not need to be laid with sagging - it tends to stretch.

Around the through passages through the roof, waterproofing is placed on the walls of communication pipes by 5-7 cm. Ideally, an additional waterproofing layer is recommended around pipes and other weakened areas of the roof.

Installation of parts before laying the coating

Before laying the metal tile, it is mandatory to install:

Eaves strips, excluding the penetration of dust and debris into the under-roof space. They are mounted on top of the ventilation tape attached to the ends and the legs of the drain hooks. The slats are attached to the frontal and eaves board with self-tapping screws in increments of 30 cm. To prevent rattling from gusts of wind, these metal parts are installed with an interference fit.
Cornice droppers, which are located under the waterproofing film. They are needed to remove moisture from waterproofing.
A lower valley that reinforces the protection of the concave corners of the roof. It is a metal corner that repeats the shape of the groove. It is mounted on top of a solid plank crate. The lower edge of the corner is located above the cornice board. In almost flat grooves, the boardwalk is equipped with an additional strip of waterproofing. The lower valley is screwed with self-tapping screws every 30 cm. A porous sealant is covered over the lower valley.
Protective bypass around chimneys crossing the roof. It is carried out using metal bypass strips, the upper edge of which is attached to a strobe formed in the pipe walls and treated with a sealant. Stitching into the seam is prohibited! The same rules apply when arranging adjoining walls.
Lightning rod required for the safe operation of a metal roof.

The lightning rod system consists of three main parts. The first is a lightning rod, which is a steel or aluminum bar Ø 12mm, from 20 cm to 1.5 m long. The second component of the down conductor is a single-core steel or aluminum wireØ 6mm. They lay a down conductor along the crate and along the walls, lead to the ground. Grounding, the third part of the system, is an iron beam 1.5 m long buried at a depth of 1.5 m or a steel sheet with an area of 1 m × 1 m, for example.

Rules for laying sheets of metal

Before laying profiled sheets, it is necessary to arrange logs for transporting material to the roof. In order not to lift the coating one sheet at a time, it is advisable to build racks for temporary storage at the top. Even the home master will need soft shoes, diligence and accuracy in the process of moving along the roof. The work contractor is allowed to step only into the deflections of profiled waves.

When laying metal tiles, you can move even to the left, even to the right of the first fixed sheet. The main thing is that the capillary groove overlaps with the sheet laid on top. The guideline for choosing the direction of laying is convenience. However, it is better to act in such a way that the element laid on top immediately fits under the extreme wave of the previous one and snaps into place with a capillary groove. This way it stays in place and doesn't slide off.

Typical installation sequence

Indisputable rules for the installation of metal tiles:

Starting sheets are attached to the first lath through the wave on top of the transverse step of the cover. Their lower edge extends 5 cm beyond the eaves.
All subsequent fastening of sheets is carried out in recessions of waves from below the transverse step.
Along the end board, the profiled coating is attached to all waves.

Before fastening, it is necessary to carefully check the horizontal position of the sheet. After making sure that the installation is flawless, it is temporarily fixed with one self-tapping screw at the upper edge in the center. Then the second sheet is laid, leveled and temporarily fixed in the same way. Aligned sheets are fastened together. Do the same with the third and fourth.

Screwing to the crate is carried out when a block of 3-4 sheets is laid and temporarily fixed. The block is fixed at all the required points. Only the outer sheet is not screwed to the crate, so that it remains possible to connect it with the next element.

The process of laying metal tile sheets in several rows differs only in that the rows of material will also have to be fastened to each other. Sheets in height are increased vertically.

Profiled sheets are suitable for pitched roofs of any configuration. However, for a competent device of a hip or hip roof made of metal tiles, you will have to act according to a different scheme.

Installation of sheets on slopes of a triangular shape:

We find the center of the overhang and draw the central axis through it.
We take the first sheet and do the same with it.
We combine the axes of the slope and the sheet in fact, we verify the horizontal and vertical.
Temporarily fasten the sheet with a self-tapping screw in the center at the top edge.
We install the sheets to the right and left of the central element of the coating in the usual way.

After fastening the corrugated sheets, the excess is cut off.

The convenience of trimming with marking material for arranging valleys, triangular, trapezoidal and oblique slopes will provide a home-made "devil". It is built from four boards 10 cm wide. The boards are arranged in parallel pairs and are connected to each other according to the hinge principle. A simple fixture will help to accurately outline the cut segments.

Final installation work

After laying the wavy coating with a light soul, you can proceed to the finishing touches:

Install passage elements around pipes, antennas and other communications. All components of the roofing cake at the intersection points are sealed with adhesive tape. Butt joints are filled with sealant.
Screw the end plate to the end board with self-tapping screws every 50-60 cm.
Screw the top bar of the valley, having laid a self-expanding sealant on the coating beforehand.
Build a horse. To do this, the area of \u200b\u200bthe ridge is glued on the outside with waterproofing of the Metalroll or Figarol brand. Ventilation ducts must remain open. The ridge is fixed with self-tapping screws to the crate, the fasteners should be screwed through a convex comb. The ends of the ridge element are closed with plugs.

A drainage system, snow guards, service ladders and fencing, if planned, are installed on the laid coating.

An excellent consolidation of information about the device on the roof of a solid roof made of metal tiles with their master's hands will be detailed video instruction:

There are many nuances in the construction of a roof with metal tiles. However, there is nothing super complicated in technology. It is necessary to familiarize yourself with the intricacies of the device and observe them so that you do not again have to change the roof to the next option.

Today the metal tile, certainly, one of the best roofing coverings. Sturdy, low maintenance, durable and not too expensive. Among its advantages is a presentable appearance. The functionality of the roof is determined by the correct installation, but do not think that only specialists can cover the roof with high quality.

Having carefully studied the features of working with this material, it is quite possible to lay a metal tile with your own hands. The main thing is to have a clear work plan, take your time and take precautions.

Basic rules for working with metal tiles

This roofing material is a galvanized steel sheet of complex configuration with a thickness of 0.45 mm or more with a double-sided protective coating. The front (working) side, as a rule, has additional protection in the form of a celluloid film, which is removed before installation. When working with metal tiles, you should:

Store the material in a place protected from atmospheric precipitation. The number of sheets in a stack should not exceed that specified in the instructions. Do not place heavy objects on the surface of the sheet.

Avoid mechanical stress, avoid dents and scratches.

Work with gloves.

Do not throw or drag sheets.

Perform installation in soft shoes, step only into the deepening of the wave.

For fasteners, use only special roofing screws.

Be careful when marking.

Cut metal tiles with metal shears, a hacksaw or punching electric shears. Tint the sections with the appropriate paint (aerosol or brush).

Preparatory work

Before installation, it is necessary to once again check the rigidity of the connections of the rafter system, compliance with the design dimensions (including the diagonals of the slopes) and how correctly it is assembled - the rafters must be strictly in the same plane. Align if necessary.

It is advisable to treat the wooden elements of the roof with a special moisture-resistant impregnation. It is necessary to calculate and acquire all the necessary Construction Materials for the installation of a "roofing pie" (if necessary) and installation of the batten.

Calculation of the amount of material

For vapor barrier it is better to use modern membrane roll materials. The film is spread horizontally (across the rafters) from the side of the attic with an overlap of 10-15 cm and is attached to the rafters with a stapler. Then the insulation is tightly laid between the rafters. Between the insulation and the vapor barrier, it is necessary to leave a ventilation gap (at least 2 cm).

The waterproofing layer is arranged in the same way as the vapor barrier, but with outer side rafters and fastened with a counter-lattice. Waterproofing is also needed on the ceiling. When laying the film, pay attention to the correct location - with the working side facing out.

Lathing installation

For best use edged board at least 2.5 cm thick and 10 cm wide.

The step of the lathing depends on the parameters of the roofing, and the distance between the first (lower) and second row should be 10 cm less than this value. An additional crate is made under the skates, valleys, ventilation outlets and dormer windows. The crate should be fixed with galvanized nails or wood screws (using a screwdriver).

How to cover the roof with your own hands - instructions

First you need to install the necessary roofing elements. Special hooks for gutters are attached to the cornice board. Then cornice strips are installed to ensure that water flows into the gutter. Planks are mounted with an overlap of 5-10 cm and fixed

galvanized self-tapping screws after 30-35 cm. Then, valleys and “aprons” are arranged around pipes and dormer windows. At the junction, an additional layer of waterproofing is made and sealed with a sealant.

Before you start, you need to decide how you will raise it

on the roof and, if necessary, install logs from thick boards or timber. You can lift several sheets at once and lay them on a rack in the under-roof space, shifting the sheets with a wooden lath.

It is better to start installation from the lower right corner of the slope, then each sheet will overlap on top with the next sheet.

The metal tile is equipped with a special capillary groove that drains water that has fallen under the sheets in places of overlap. It is necessary to monitor the correct arrangement of the sheets (the groove must be inside the joint). Regardless of the shape of your roof, the sheets of metal tiles are laid strictly horizontally (completely coinciding with the line of the eaves) and must be at the same distance from the wall along the entire length of the slope.

There are several ways to lay on rectangular slopes:

In one row. The bottommost sheet is aligned with the cornice and pediment, fastened with one self-tapping screw in the middle (without twisting it to the end). The second sheet is laid, aligned with the first and the sheets are fastened together. Having mounted the bottom row and checking the correct position of the sheets, it is thoroughly fixed to the crate (except for the last sheet. It is completely scrolled with self-tapping screws only after laying the second row).

in several rows. The second sheet is attached above the first, the third next, the fourth above the third. Thus, a block of four sheets is assembled, aligned and fastened. Then four more sheets are mounted in the same order, and so on.

Ladder. Three lower sheets are mounted in the first row, two in the second above them and an extreme sheet in the third row. Sheets are aligned and scrolled with self-tapping screws. Then, in each row, starting from the bottom, a sheet of metal tile is sequentially added and thoroughly fastened.

On trapezoidal slopes, installation begins with a right angle.

On triangular slopes, the first sheet is installed strictly in the center and sheets are mounted from it in both directions. Self-tapping screws are twisted through one wave into the deflection (where the metal tile is adjacent to the crate), in places of overlap - into each.

You can not tighten the screws too much - they can deform the profile and break the tightness of the connection.

You should carefully measure and carefully draw the cut line (more on how to do it right). If necessary, you can use templates or "dashes".

Adjacencies with vertical roof elements ( dormer windows, pipes, ventilation outlets, etc.) must be glued with adhesive tape and sealed with silicone sealant. A porous, self-expanding or universal seal should be laid under the gutter of a valley with a large angle.

Installation of additional elements

End plate. This roofing element, in addition to its main function (protecting the metal tile from the wind), also performs decorative functions - it improves the appearance of the roof. The end plate is mounted from the eaves to the ridge and fastened to the windboard with self-tapping screws after 50-60 cm. The overlap is about 10 cm. The end plate must necessarily cover the crest of the wave.

Skate. Skate elements give the roof a complete shape and prevent precipitation from entering the roof. They are installed with an overlap (10-15 cm) at the junction of the slopes and with a small release in both directions. They are fastened through the wave with self-tapping screws on both sides.

Adjoining strips. These additional elements are installed on the breaks of the roofs. It is very important that these places are absolutely tight, so special attention should be paid to the crate and sealant.

Snow guard. Under this roofing element, which prevents snow from rolling off the roof, you need to install wooden block into which it will be attached. It is better to do this at the stage of installation of the crate. It is installed parallel to the cornice and fastened with threaded connections.

Installation of a metal tile is quite possible to do on your own. But do not take on this business alone - you cannot do without assistants.

Properly covering the roof is very important for the further operation of the entire house. The negative results of improper installation may not appear immediately, but only after some time, when the need for costly repairs or a complete replacement of the roof becomes obvious.

Among the unpleasant consequences of unqualified installation, it should be noted:

roof leak

risk of collapse

poor thermal and waterproofing of the roof

various noises that are heard inside the building.

If you want to use this particular material, then you are naturally interested in the question: " How to cover a roof with a metal tile? In this article, we will give an answer to it. After reading it, you will be able to get acquainted with the technology of laying metal tiles (such as Monterrey or Adamant).

What tools are needed in order to put a metal tile on a roof?

When carrying out work on the installation of metal tiles, the following tools are required:

cutting tool,

screwdriver for tightening self-tapping screws,

long rail,
sealant gun.

Solving the question “How to cut metal tiles”, you need to stock up on hand-held metal shears, a hacksaw with fine teeth, a drill attachment for cutting material, a jigsaw, a circular saw. It is important to note that, observing the installation technology, it is impossible to use a grinder for cutting. In this case, it is possible to spoil not only the polymer coating of the material, but also the zinc coating, which will lead to corrosion and further damage to the entire roof structure.

Mounting scheme:

Laying the truss system

It is necessary to start laying the roof with the truss system. Taking into account the weight of the roofing itself, it must withstand a weight of 200 kg / m². Thanks to this, you can make the roof resistant to strong gusts of wind, various mechanical influences. This roof installation technology will give it the ability to withstand loads from a mass of snow, which can be quite impressive.

Screed bearing walls

The laying of the truss system begins with the screed of the load-bearing walls. It is made of beams and is a roof frame.

We lay waterproofing

During this work, it is necessary to lay waterproofing - on the outside of the beam and vapor barrier - on the inside. It is necessary to install these films in order to protect the insulation from condensation. The installation of steam and waterproofing membranes is carried out with an overlap (10 cm), the joints are glued with special adhesive tape.

We make a crate

Next, you need to decide how to attach the metal tile to the rafter skeleton. Before this, you need to make a crate. The most popular material for its manufacture is wood. Boards are attached to the rafters with nails. The thickness of the beams is calculated by specialists individually, depending on the specific design of the building. On average, boards 10 cm wide are used, the extreme bars extend beyond the roof and should be 1-1.5 cm thicker.

We mount metal tiles

Sheets of material are directly attached to the crate. How to mount a metal tile? If we have gable roof, you should start from the end, in the case of a tent covering - from the highest point, gradually going down. The material is overlapped, each sheet is covered with another one on top. They are connected to each other with self-tapping screws, and fastened to the ridge with screws.

We fix additional elements

Speaking about how to properly cover the roof, it should be said about additional elements. First, the end strips are attached, then the ridge ones. In places where the slopes adjoin, the installation of the valley is carried out (the lower one is on top of the cornice strip on the crate, the upper one is on top of the wave of the tile sheet). Next, the gutters and pipes are laid according to the instructions supplied by the manufacturers.

As you can see, the installation of a roof is a complex process. It is better to entrust its implementation to qualified specialists who know how to cover the roof with metal tiles with high quality so that it will serve you for many years. The specialists of Pokroff Roofing Center are ready to help you with this. You can buy high-quality roofing materials from us and order services for their installation.

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