We take care of the hippeastrum at home correctly. Hippeastrum (45 photos): planting, growing, care Potted hippeastrum flower how to care
Hippeastrum (Hippeastrum) is a very beautiful bulbous perennial plant of the Amaryllis family (Amaryllidaceae), which is very popular among flower growers for its high decorative qualities. Hippeastrums are native to South America. Monotonous, dull, dusty and even for many, many kilometers of the steppe, which burn out completely in the summer under the merciless scorching sun, turning into a desert - habitual conditions hippeastrum growth.
Hippeastrums have adapted to such a life. During spring heavy rains, they quickly come to life, and the steppes are covered with a continuous carpet of flowering hippeastrums.
But there are especially many hippeastrums in Brazil. Brazilian hippeastrums, growing on desert plateaus and alpine meadows, have a very beautiful color of flowers: red on the outside and white on the inside. Also in the wild, there is a type of hippeastrum with bright red, carmine flowers that shimmer in the sun with velvet.
In North America, there is a special type of Virginian hippeastrum, which grows in damp and shady forests. The flowers of this type of hippeastrum are of variable color: purple at the beginning of flowering, gradually the color becomes less intense and turns pink, and then the flowers turn white.
Often flower hippeastrum confused with amaryllis. However, connoisseurs will never confuse them: amaryllis has only one species - amaryllis belladonna, or beautiful (Amaryllis belladonna), the color of amaryllis flowers is mainly pink, amaryllis blooms in autumn and blooms in winter.
Among the hybrid hippeastrums, there are so many different shades and colors of flowers that you wonder, from snow-white to purple. Hippeastrum flowers are very large, can reach 20 cm in diameter, there are up to six flowers on the peduncle. Hippeastrum blooms in spring or late winter. If desired, you can make hippeastrum bloom twice a year, which you can’t do with amaryllis. The leaves of the hippeastrum are belt-like dark green in color, can grow along with the blooming of flowers, sometimes appear after flowering.
Hippeastrum Care
Tableware. Narrow and tall pots are better suited for growing hippeastrum, because in addition to the bulb, the hippeastrum also has roots that are long enough and do not die off during the dormant period, but continue to nourish the bulb.
You also need to observe the depth of planting hippeastrum. The bulb should rise from the ground by one third. And do not try to fill the pot with earth too much, it is better to wait until it settles by itself, and add earth to the desired height. Pots should not be too wide in size, it is enough if the distance between the wall of the pot and the bulb is only 2-3 cm. In too wide dishes, the hippeastrum may not bloom for a long time.
earth mixture: sod land, peat, sand, humus in a ratio of 2:1:1:1. The soil mixture for hippeastrums should be nutritious, water and breathable with a neutral or alkaline soil pH. Also do not forget about the drainage layer. Also, when transplanting hippeastrum, you can use ready-made purchased soil for bulbs.
Lighting. Hippeastrum is a photophilous plant, so it is advisable to keep it on the southwestern, southern or southeastern windows. Light can be either direct sunlight or bright diffused. Hippeastrum hybrids that lose their leaves during the dormant period can move the hippeastrum bulb pot to a cooler and darker place.
Air temperature. Hippeastrum grows well at room temperature. In summer, the usual room temperature is +20 +25 0 C. In winter, the air temperature may be slightly lower.
Watering. At the beginning of winter, in order for the hippeastrum to wake up, come out of the dormant period, it is placed on a bright window. During this period, the hippeastrum has no leaves, it is not watered, otherwise you can easily ruin the bulb. Until the flower arrow appears, the hippeastrum can not be watered. After the appearance of the peduncle and until the flower arrow grows up to 7-10 cm, watering the hippeastrum should be weak, otherwise the leaves will begin to grow to the detriment of the flowers. Watering is best done in a pan or along the edge of the pot, without getting water on the bulb. As the peduncle grows, watering increases.
After flowering, the hippeastrum leaves and bulb begin to grow, new flower stalks are being laid for the next year, during this period watering should be regular. By the end of summer, watering stops. At this time, the hippeastrum begins a dormant period. Pot with hippeastrum can be put in a cool place and not watered. If the room temperature is high, then you can water occasionally a little so that the bulb does not dry out. Hippeastrum does not need high humidity, so it does not need air spraying, it prefers dry content.
top dressing. The first top dressing of the hippeastrum can be done when the height of the flower arrow is about 15 cm. If the hippeastrum is recently transplanted and there are enough nutrients in the soil, top dressing can be done later. When top dressing, focus on phosphorus-potassium fertilizers. They contribute to flowering, the accumulation of nutrients in the bulb, the laying of future flower stalks. But it is better to exclude nitrogen fertilizers, they can provoke gray rot, and the plant can be irretrievably lost.
Transfer. Hippeastrum can be transplanted 30-40 days after the end of flowering. An annual transplant is not at all necessary, but in this case, change the top layer of the earth every year, because the hippeastrum quickly consumes nutrients from the soil, and this will then affect flowering. You can also transplant hippeastrum before it leaves dormancy, that is, at the end of December.
Rest period. Hippeastrum needs a dormant period in order to bloom annually. It usually lasts from late summer to late October. When preparing hippeastrum for a dormant period from the end of summer, watering and fertilizing should be limited. In many hippeastrums, the leaves die off completely.
Hippeastrum, if desired, can be grown without a pronounced dormant period. Then you need to keep it all year on a bright, sunny window in warm room, water with warm water as the earth dries, preferably in a pan. With such care, hippeastrum can bloom in autumn in October - November or in spring in March - May. The dark green leaves of hippeastrum remain healthy throughout the year and do not lose their beauty.
Hippeastrum reproduction. Hippeastrum is easily propagated by daughter bulbs that are completely identical to the mother plant. Children more than two centimeters are separated from the main bulb during transplantation. Young plants bloom in 2-3 years.
But what to do if some varietal hippeastrums do not form children? In this case, hippeastrum can be propagated as follows: cut a healthy hippeastrum bulb with a clean and sharp knife into two or four parts so that each share has a part of the bottom. Carefully process the slices of the bulb with crushed coal and dry for two to three days. After the cut has dried, each share can be planted in a mixture of sand and peat or perlite. It is not necessary to deepen such an onion, it should simply lie with its bottom on the surface of the earthen mixture.
But you can not completely cut the hippeastrum bulb to the end, but make only deep cuts, so that the bulb is divided into two or four parts, but does not fall apart at all. Sections are also processed with crushed coal and also dried for two to three days. After that, the bulb is simply placed on an earthen mixture of sand and peat or perlite. Watering such bulbs is carried out only through the pallet. After a while, babies appear at the base of the cut bulb.
Hippeastrum can be pollinated and propagated by seeds. In this case, sometimes a completely unpredictable result is obtained (so to speak, a breeder himself).
After pollination of the hippeastrum, a seed box is formed on the peduncle. In this case, the peduncle does not need to be removed, wait until the seeds ripen. But remember that such a procedure can greatly weaken the bulb, which will again affect flowering in the future: the flowers will be smaller, or the plant will not bloom at all. It is good to conduct an experiment with hippeastrum seeds in open ground, where the bees fly, and the bulb will pick up nutrients from the ground during the ripening of the seeds.
Hippeastrum seeds are sown immediately after harvest, otherwise they quickly lose their germination. Planting seeds to a depth of one centimeter, seedlings appear in two to three weeks. Hippeastrum seedlings are photophilous, so put them in a bright place. In order for small hippeastrums to grow better, you can feed with a weak solution of liquid mineral fertilizers. Young hippeastrums do not need a dormant period.
Pests. The main pests of hippeastrum are spider mites, mealybugs, scale insects, and onion mites. Pests visible to the naked eye can be removed manually with a sponge or cotton swab dipped in an alcohol solution, after which the plant is repeatedly treated with a solution of actellik, fitoverm or karbofos.
When planting in open ground, do not plant the hippeastrum next to other bulbs, such as lilies, otherwise the hippeastrum may be affected by an onion mite. The bottom of the bulb begins to rot and gradually the whole bulb rots.
Diseases. One of the most dangerous diseases of hippeastrums is the red burn of the bulbs, or staganosporosis. At the first detection of red stains and dots on the hippeastrum bulb, without regret, cut out all foci of infection to healthy tissue. Cut off all affected leaves and dead roots. All sections and the bulb itself must be treated with phytosporin, foundationazole, Maxim.
Dry the treated hippeastrum bulb for a week, see if new foci of infection appear. If everything went well, then plant the hippeastrum bulb in a new pot and a new substrate. At first, minimal watering and only in a pan with solutions of phytosporin, foundationol to ensure disinfection. Planting the bulb in this case should be as high as possible, this will allow you to control the condition of the bulb. If everything goes well, then the soil can then be added to the desired height. The main thing is to save the bulb.
In addition to the red burn, hippeastrum can be affected by anthracnose and fusarium. Treatment is almost the same as with a red burn: removal of damaged tissues, repeated treatments with phytosporin, fundazol, Maxim.
Remember, diseases appear from improperly selected earth mixture, excess nitrogen fertilizers, improper watering (too plentiful, or water got into the middle of the bulb), from lack of light. If the conditions of detention are chosen correctly, then the hippeastrum will delight you with its flowering for a long time.
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Hippeastrum (home care is simple and everyone can do it) - the plant is very beautiful and easy to grow, because it is very unpretentious. However, it still has some of its own characteristics.
Distinctive features of a flower
The birthplace of the flower is considered to be South America, the largest number of them is in Brazil. It is here that they can be found both in alpine meadows and on desert plateaus.
In its appearance, the hippeastrum is distinguished by a truly unique beauty. Each flower is white inside, and its outer walls are red. Also in the wild, you can quite easily meet a special species with carmine flowers, that is, bright red, which seem to shimmer with velvet.
Representatives who love dampness and shade do not differ in intense color, purple slowly turns into pink, and then white.
Hippeastrum indoor is a bulbous plant with large flowers, about 20 cm in diameter, which are located on high stalks. As a rule, hippeastrum flowers are collected in umbrella inflorescences. In each such inflorescence no more than 2-5 flowers.
The leaves are linear-flat, the color of which varies from bright green to dark. The length sometimes reaches 70 cm. The leaves, if the plant is healthy, are slightly curved.
Hippeastrum, whose varieties are quite diverse, is very unpretentious in care. For a little attention to yourself, you will be thanked by a large number of bright colors.
How to properly care for a plant?
Hippeastrum (home care is quite easy) came to us from tropical countries, but despite this, most of the representatives can be found in mountainous areas. In view of this, it follows that the care of the plant should be special.
First of all, you need to take into account that even dry air is experienced by the plant quite easily.
Desired room temperature
The ideal temperature at which the plant feels quite comfortable is the range from 17 to 25 degrees Celsius. And in winter period it can be lowered a bit. But temperature drops are still undesirable, since this can adversely affect the growth of hippeastrum. Lowering the air temperature by a slight 5 degrees can make the flowering process impossible. That is why you need to carefully monitor the stability of the temperature in the room.
The flowering period can be extended by lowering it to 15 degrees.
Light mode
This plant is very fond of light, and in no case should this be forgotten. Direct sunlight is not terrible for him, but it is still better to avoid such situations. The best place for the location of the pot with the plant, the southern, southwestern or southeastern sides are considered. The light is preferably diffused.
During the dormant period, the hybrids of this plant actively lose leaves, which is why it is recommended to move it to a darker place with a lower temperature for this period.
Irrigation Features
The dormant period of the plant ends in December. During this period, it is recommended to move the hippeastrum pot to a place that is fairly well lit. You can start watering only when flower arrows begin to appear and reach a size of about 10 cm. You need to water in small portions, otherwise you will provoke premature leaf growth.
Do not pour water directly into the pot, it is better to do it in the pan. This method will avoid getting liquid directly on the bulb, and this threatens to rot.
Watering should be increased during the period when the flower arrows begin their active growth.
Hippeastrum after flowering gives all its strength to the bulb, which begins to grow actively, as well as to the leaves of the plant. During this period, flower stalks are laid, which will be activated next year. Regular watering of the hippeastrum will contribute to this.
It is required to completely stop this procedure at the end of summer, when the plant begins a special period in life - a dormant period. Right now, the flowers, the hippeastrum loves it very much, you need to put it in a fairly cool place, and exclude water access. If you do not have the opportunity to provide the plant with such conditions, and it is forced to be in a room with a high temperature, watering cannot be stopped. It is enough just to do it in small portions from time to time. This procedure is required so that the hippeastrum bulb does not dry out. But spraying should not be carried out, since the plant tolerates dry air quite easily, and during the dormant period such conditions are considered ideal.
Feeding rules
Do not rush to feed your plant. You need to start this only if the arrows are at least 15 cm high. If such a flower is transplanted quite recently, then the soil most likely still has a sufficient amount of various nutrients, and top dressing should be carried out much later.
Hippeastrum (home care is very simple) is a plant that prefers potash and phosphate fertilizers. It is they who are able to significantly accelerate the appearance of flowers, contribute to the accumulation of substances necessary for growth in the bulb itself, and the successful laying of peduncles. Nitrogen fertilizers are recommended to be completely excluded, because they can cause such a nuisance as gray rot, which can lead to the death of hippeastrum.
During the growing season and active growth, fertilizing is recommended no more than once every two weeks. Approximately one month before the dormant period of the plant comes, top dressing must be completely stopped.
How to care for a plant after flowering?
Hippeastrum after flowering goes to rest. In order for him to please you next year with beautiful and truly unique flowers, you need to follow certain rules for care after flowering:
- After the completion of the flowering process, the flower arrow must be cut off, while leaving about 2/3 of its former length. This is necessary so that the bulb can receive a certain part of the nutrients. You can remove the arrow only when it completely fades. To do this, it can be carefully pulled out of the bulb.
- Provide the plant with plenty of sunlight and systematic watering. It is this care that allows you to guarantee a large number of flowers for the next year, since this period is needed so that the bulb can form the beginnings of new flower arrows.
- To restore the bulb, you need to ensure that the hippeastrum produces as many leaves as possible over the summer. This process can be facilitated by watering with a weak infusion of mullein or a special complex fertilizer for flowers.
- The health of a plant is expressed by its leaves. If they are large, juicy, bright green with a sheen, then the development of the hippeastrum is successful. Particular attention should be paid to those plants whose leaves lose their elasticity, may break and turn pale. If this happens, you need to increase the amount of sunlight. The ideal option is to transplant into the garden. However, in this case, additional care must be taken to ensure that snails and slugs do not harm the leaves.
Having sent the hippeastrum to rest in time, flowering in next year you will definitely get.
Secrets of Successful Breeding
There are three ways to propagate hippeastrum:
- with the help of seeds;
- raising children;
- dividing the bulb.
To obtain seeds, the plant is artificially pollinated. They mature in 2 months. Moreover, the brighter the color of the flowers, the more likely the germination of seeds. They should be planted immediately after collection, the planting depth should be about 2 cm. This method is not very convenient, since flowers appear only after 3-4 years.
The simplest for execution is the method of reproduction by children. Bulbs with a diameter of about 2 cm are suitable for this, provided that the roots are well developed.
If you have a hybrid plant, then it will not form children. Then the division of the bulb will be appropriate. As a result of the procedure, you should get several segments with a well-developed spine. If you do not want to ruin the hippeastrum, the bulb must be divided with a sterile instrument.
Before direct planting, parts of the bulb need to be dried a little and covered with charcoal chips. Ideally, a peat-sand mixture is required as a substrate. After planting, the pots are recommended to be placed in plastic bags to create a greenhouse effect. Watering is carried out through the pallet.
Potential Growing Problems
Many growers may have questions. The most popular of them: “Why does the hippeastrum not bloom, although all the rules of care are strictly observed?”
This plant is famous for its chic bright flowers, but it depends on two factors:
- the presence of the required amount of nutrients in the bulb of the plant (it can be regulated by feeding);
- the correct period of rest, which in no case can not be ignored.
If you follow these two rules, the question is: “Why does the hippeastrum not bloom?” - you won't have any more.
There is also an option to speed up the flowering process. To do this, before planting the bulb directly into the substrate, it must be kept in sufficiently hot water (about 45 degrees) for up to 3 hours. In addition, you can cut the leaves and stop watering for 30 days. This procedure also contributes to the rapid onset of flowering.
All sorts of insects, such as mealybug, spider and onion mites, as well as scale insects, can also cause harm to the plant. If you see these representatives, they must be removed with a cotton swab with alcohol. After that, the plant itself is recommended to be treated with a solution of fitoverm or karbofos.
In order for the flower to please you with its beauty and brightness for a long time, it is enough to choose the right mode of maintenance, hippeastrum (care at home is not difficult) will answer you in gratitude with abundant flowering.
In the wild, hippeastrums are found in South America, with a number of varieties living in subtropical climates and the tropics, others prefer rocky slopes, where conditions for growth are very harsh. The first bulbs came to Europe in the second half of the 16th century, and the flowering of hippeastrum made a huge impression in the countries of the Old World, where the fashion for bulbous crops was gaining momentum.
Gradually, the plant was studied, the Europeans learned how to grow hippeastrum and how to care for the flower. A hundred years later, the first hybrid plants were bred. And if in nature there are several dozen species of these bulbous plants, then the number of varieties already exceeds two thousand. Today, any grower who has ever seen the spectacular flowering of hippeastrum will certainly not leave the thought of decorating his own window sill with a luxurious plant.
Hippeastrum: plant features
Depending on the species and age, the hippeastrum bulb has a diameter of 5 to 10 cm and consists of a short section of the stem and surrounding closed scales.
In the sinus of every fourth scale, rudiments are formed:
- peduncle, as it grows, reaching a height of 40–80 cm;
- future large, collected in inflorescences of 2-6 flowers.
The leaves of the hippeastrum are located opposite each other, depending on the variety, they do not exceed 4–5 cm in width, and reach 50–70 cm in length. period:
- flowering;
- vegetation;
- rest.
When the long-awaited time of flowering comes, red, white pink, striped and spotted flowers sitting on petioles open on the tops of hollow peduncles.
Large bulbs can form two or three peduncles, but specimens with less than four leaves or not reaching a diameter of 6-7 cm this season are unlikely to please flowering.
Leaves appear one at a time approximately once a month, but when, after flowering, the plant goes dormant for 2 to 3 months, there are no external signs of bulb development, but it actively accumulates strength. Arrows with bright colors appear once a year, but with proper care, as in the photo, hippeastrum at home pleases with flowering twice. The timing and duration of this period depend on the selected variety, care features, in particular, on the temperature in the room. On average, flowering lasts about three weeks.
However, sometimes flower growers cannot achieve the appearance of flower arrows from a plant. How to care for hippeastrum so that, in addition to leaves, the bulb regularly forms flower stalks? The reason for the lack of flowers is often the wrong conditions for growing hippeastrum or the properties of the bulb:
- A bulb can refuse to bloom if it stays in a shady place for a long time or on the northern windows, where there is not enough light all year round.
- With an overly spacious or cramped pot, the hippeastrum also sometimes does not bloom.
- The quality of flowering is negatively affected by an incorrectly selected regimen, top dressing and even the composition of the soil.
- Do not forget about the necessary rest for the bulb lasting 2.5–3 months, when the hippeastrum must be sent to a cool, dark place.
If there are no visible reasons for refusing to bloom, the bulb is healthy and well-fed, it can be forced to throw out the peduncle by resorting to one of their proven methods:
- In the middle of summer, all the leaves are cut off from the bulbs and stop watering. A month later, watering is resumed and a single complex top dressing is carried out. By the beginning of autumn, buds and flowers appear on the hippeastrum.
- A set of buds is also observed 20–25 days after a three-hour treatment of the bulb with water heated to 43–45 ° C.
- For the spring flowering of hippeastrum in August, the plant is no longer watered and transferred to a dark, cool place until January. 5-6 weeks after the resumption of watering, the bulb gives buds.
For high-quality flowering, it is important that during the growing season and dormancy the bulb is able to recover and form a peduncle. If the bulb lacks nutrition, perhaps the moment has come when it is simply necessary to transplant the hippeastrum. This may be evidenced by the braiding of the roots of the entire earthen coma. Do not forget about feeding the hippeastrum.
Longer recovery during the vegetation phase and during the dormant period require small bulbs, as well as those that have undergone some kind of disease or pest attacks.
The dormant period involves the removal of healthy, well-prepared bulbs to a cool, dark place. Most often, hippeastrum bulbs "fall asleep" from September to January. How to care for a flower so that the hippeastrum blooms in due time? Special care at this time is not required, and special conditions are created for the bulbs:
- The optimum temperature is 12–14 °C.
- Complete blackout.
- The air is dry, humidity does not exceed 50-60%.
- Watering and fertilizing are completely stopped.
How and when to transplant hippeastrum?
Hippeastrums quickly master an earthen clod in a pot and literally suck out all the nutrients from the soil.
Therefore, the plant can be transplanted almost every year. When is it more convenient and painless for the plant to transplant hippeastrum? best period for bulb transplantation is the time:
- before being sent for storage during the dormant period;
- after the release of their "hibernation";
- before flowering;
- after flowering is completed, if it is a newly acquired plant in a transport pot and substrate.
Before transplanting hippeastrum:
- dead scales are carefully removed from the bulbs;
- study the root system, if necessary, cutting off rotten or damaged roots and treating the cut points with a fungicide.
The soil for hippeastrum should be light, loose, with low acidity and a high content of nutrients and mineral salts.
If you have to buy a ready-made mixture, it is better to choose soil for bulbous crops for growing hippeastrum, and then to loosen it, shift it with vermiculite or sand.
When the earth mixture is compiled independently, three parts of leafy earth and one part additive are used, if necessary, sand and dolomite flour are mixed into the soil:
- For growing hippeastrum, a pot is enough, the walls of which are 3 cm away from the bulb. More capacious dishes only harm flowering.
- At the bottom, a drainage layer must be arranged.
- And the bulb is planted so that most of it remains above the ground.
In the summer months, the bulbs can be planted in open ground, where the same hippeastrum care continues, in the photo, as well as at home. And before frost, the bulbs are dug up and transferred to the room.
Lighting when growing hippeastrums
Hippeastrums are photophilous and feel best in the most lit places, even enduring direct sunlight.
But in the shade, the plant does not bloom well, the bulb recovers and grows more slowly. The lack of light can be judged by pale, elongated leaves and peduncles. In the shade, your plant may not bud at all. If you want to see beautiful blooming inflorescences on your window, choose windows on the south side of the house.
Air temperature and watering features when growing hippeastrum
In order for the plant to have flowers for as long as possible, at home caring for the hippeastrum provides for the creation of optimal temperature and humidity conditions.
- Daytime air temperature is 20–22 °C;
- At night, the air should be somewhat cooler, around 18 °C.
Hippeastrums do not like temperature changes, during storage it is important not to drop the temperature below +5 ° C, which can damage the flower buds. But in the garden, the plant withstands short-term frosts down to -1 ° C, if it is covered with non-woven material.
The optimum air humidity for this type of bulbous is 75–80%.
Watering when growing hippeastrum also has its own specifics. Until the arrow rises 10-15 cm, the plant is moistened moderately, making sure that the topsoil dries out between waterings.
As the flowers begin to open, the amount of moisture is increased, trying to prevent overflow that is dangerous for the roots.
Gippeastrum top dressing
The first dressing of the hippeastrum is carried out no earlier than 4-6 weeks after the “awakening” of the plant. Then the flower should receive support in the form of fertilizer every two weeks, and the last dressing is carried out for a month before the bulb is sent to rest.
Top dressing is always combined with watering so that fertilizers get into moist soil.
Potassium is considered the most important element in the nutrition of hippeastrum. When the hippeastrum blooms, it is fertilized with a phosphorus-potassium mixture with a small addition of nitrogen. As the leaves appear, the proportion of nitrogen is increased, bringing to the amount of phosphorus. From May to the end of summer, you can alternate fertilizing with organic and mineral fertilizers. If a complex ready-made composition is used, it is better to choose a mixture for bulbs, where the ratio of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium is 1: 3: 4.5.
How to care for hippeastrum if the plant is grown without soil, on a nutrient solution? In this case, for 10 liters of water you will need:
- 3 grams of magnesium sulfate;
- 9 grams of potash fertilizers;
- 3 grams of ammonium nitrate;
- 7 grams of superphosphate,
- as well as a mixture of trace elements.
When growing hippeastrum, you need to remember that an excess of nitrogen threatens with diseases. Such bulbs can rot and tolerate a dormant period worse.
Hippeastrum flowering video
Blooming hippeastrum fascinates with its beauty. Only once a year he pleases us with huge flowers-stars. And what is the disappointment when the long-awaited flower does not appear, or the plant begins to fade altogether. To avoid such troubles and be able to enjoy the contemplation of this wonderful flower, you need to know some care secrets and stick to them. A grateful plant will surely delight the eye with generous flowering.
Description of hippeastrum
Appearance
Hippeastrum (lat. Hippeastrum) is a perennial bulbous plant. The leaves are linear, shiny leaves, 50–70 cm long, 4–5 cm wide, have shallow grooves on the surface. The leaves are arranged in two rows. During the flowering period, the plant produces a powerful, tall (up to 60–80 cm) peduncle.
The name of the flower is translated from ancient Greek as "star rider".
Hippeastrum during flowering - a matter of pride and admiration
The flowers are funnel-shaped. Their color range is quite wide: red, white, orange, pink, purple, sometimes yellow or greenish shades. The main tone can be supplemented with strokes or specks.
The flowers are large - up to 20 cm in diameter, collected in an umbrella inflorescence. Hippeastrum has a very faint smell. Some species do not smell at all. This is a great benefit for people prone to allergic reactions.
Hippeastrum flowering - video
Natural habitat and home maintenance
The birthplace of hippeastrum is the American tropics and subtropics, in particular the Amazon basin. It was brought to Europe in the 16th century and quickly gained admirers around the world. In 1799, Johnson's first hybrid hippeastrum was bred. Today, these flowers are widely grown as houseplants and are also grown for cutting. Hippeastrums are not very difficult to care for. Even beginner flower growers can easily cope with this task.
A variety of varieties of hippeastrum
This plant belongs to the Amaryllis family and has about 90 species and more than 2 thousand varieties.
In indoor floriculture, hippeastrum hybrida is most often cultivated. The classification of varietal hippeastrums is based on two features: the size and shape of the flower. Depending on this, plants are conditionally divided into 9 groups, which are indicated in the table.
The most popular groups and varieties of hippeastrum - table
| Group name | Popular varieties |
| Large-flowered simple | Apple Blossom, Charisma, Showmaster, Minerva, Hermes |
| Medicinal simple | Lemon Star, Magic Green |
| Small-flowered simple | Santa Cruz, Giraffe, Baby Star, Bianca, Neon |
| Terry large-flowered | Blossom Peakok, White Piakok, Sweet Nymphs, Dancing Queen, Aphrodite, Lady Jane |
| Terry mid-flowered | Alfresco, Unique, Double Record, Elvas, Pasadena, |
| Terry small-flowered | Zombie |
| sibistre | La Paz, Emerald, Chico, Rio Negro, Tiramisu, Melfi |
| orchid | Papilio, Exotic Star, Ruby Star |
| Tubular | Pink Floyd, Amputo, Santiago, Germa, Rebecca |
Magnificent hippeastrums in the photo
Simple large-flowered hippeastrum with a rim 
Simple large-flowered hippeastrum striped 
Simple mid-flowered hippeastrum 
Simple mid-flowered hippeastrum with curly margin 
Simple small-flowered hippeastrum 
"Star" splendor 
Charming bouquet 
Terry mid-flowered hippeastrum 
Terry large-flowered hippeastrum 
sibistre 
orchid hippeastrum 
Orchid Hippeastrum
Similarities and differences with amaryllis
Amaryllis is often referred to as a hippeastrum variety, but this is erroneous.
Drainage is a prerequisite for preventing excessive soil moisture and rotting of the bulb and roots.
The bulb is planted in a slightly damp soil mixture, deepening it to a maximum of 2/3 of the height.
The narrow pot and shallow planting contribute to the creation optimal conditions for hippeastrum
After planting, the plant needs only heat. It is not necessary to water until hippeastrum sprouts appear.
If any damage is noticed on the bulb, it must first be healed. This procedure includes pruning rotten parts, keeping for 30 minutes in a fungicide solution (Fundazol, Maxim) or ordinary greenery and drying for a day.
It is necessary to plant such a bulb in the ground, where the humus is replaced by a small amount of sphagnum (peat moss).
It is advisable to deepen the reanimated bulb into the soil by no more than 1/4 of its height. With such a landing, it is easier to control its condition and, if necessary, carry out spraying. After the bulb has recovered, it is easy to add the soil mixture to the usual level.
Having planted the plant in moistened soil, it is placed in a warm, slightly shaded place (you can cover it with an empty pot) and watering is excluded until the peduncle is forced to a height of 10 cm.
The optimal frequency of hippeastrum transplantation is once every 3-4 years. auspicious time is the threshold of the dormant period or its end. It is advisable to use the transshipment method when transplanting - to move the plant along with an earthen clod. In this case, the root system is minimally damaged, which contributes to the rapid rooting of the bulb and its active development.
Transshipment method - a transplant method with minimal damage to the root system
Basic rules for caring for hippeastrum
Watering and feeding
As discussed above, the intensity of hippeastrum watering is directly related to its life cycle. However, it is important to provide the plant not only with the necessary amount of moisture, but also to properly deliver it to the root system.
For example, it is not recommended to pour water on the bulb - it can rot. It is better to combine top watering with watering in the pan. Thus, moisture will be evenly distributed over the earthen coma, which will prevent root rot. The main rule for watering hippeastrum: it is better to underfill than overfill. You also need to regularly wipe the leaves from dust or wash them with warm water.
During the growth of the peduncle, when it reaches a height of 12–15 cm, it is useful to water the soil with a weak solution of potassium permanganate. After 5-6 days after this, you need to feed the plant with phosphorus fertilizer.
Hippeastrum is fertilized regularly, at the beginning of the growing season - once every two weeks with liquid nitrogen-phosphorus-potassium (7:3:6) fertilizer (for deciduous plants). After the appearance of the leaves to stimulate the active formation of buds, hippeastrum requires less nitrogen and much more potassium, so the ratio of mineral components changes to 4:6:12 (for flowering plants). The frequency of feeding is maintained.
A month before the onset of the dormant period, the hippeastrum needs fertilizer with a small part of nitrogen and phosphorus and a large amount of potassium (4:4:12).
Carefully read the fertilizer application instructions on the packaging and do not exceed the specified concentration of minerals. Otherwise, you can burn the root system of the plant.
Timely balanced top dressing contributes to high-quality flowering and growth of deciduous mass. The bases of the leaves form the scales of the bulb and it increases in size. With insufficient nutrition or the complete absence of top dressing, the bulb will use the nutrients accumulated from the leaves, but they are not enough to ensure flowering.
Some flowering secrets
Sometimes hippeastrum disappoints flower growers by refusing to bloom. Why? There may be several reasons:
- Most often, the plant does not throw out the peduncle due to the depletion of the bulb. Hippeastrum requires a solid amount of nutrients to bloom. It is not surprising that the soil in the pot quickly becomes depleted. To avoid such problems, it is necessary to fertilize regularly and in sufficient quantities.
- A plant affected by pests (spider mites, scale insects or scale insects) tries to fight them and does not have the strength to bloom.
- Hippeastrum does not bloom even when the bulb rots due to waterlogging of the soil.
To admire the blooming hippeastrum from year to year, such situations should not be allowed. It is also useful to know some tricks of experienced flower growers to ensure 100% flowering of this plant:
- processing the bulb before planting with hot (43-45 ºC) water for three hours will make the plant bloom in three weeks;
- if you stop watering from August, move the plant to a dark, dry place and keep it there until the end of January, then resume watering, the flowers will delight you in 1.5 months;
- if you cut off all the leaves in July and do not water the hippeastrum for a month, and introduce liquid complex top dressing with the first watering, the flowers will bloom in August or September.
To avoid burning the roots, fertilizer should be applied only after the soil has been pre-moistened.
Immediately after flowering, it is necessary to cut off the faded peduncle, continuing watering and top dressing. And prepare the plant for a good rest (rest period). The next flowering directly depends on this.
rest period
The natural dormant period of hippeastrum lasts quite a long time: from September to January. If your plant grew on outdoors, by the beginning of autumn it must be brought into the house and gradually reduce watering until the leaves completely stop and dry out. You can independently cut the yellowed leaves, from which the bulb has already taken nutrients.
The quality of the next flowering depends on the dormant period.
After that, you should put (or put the pot with the plant on its side) in a dark and cool (5-12 ° C) room. Many flower growers keep them at a higher temperature - about 17-18 ° C. The soil must be slightly moistened once every 2-3 weeks to prevent the roots from drying out. Wetting and spraying the bulb is not recommended.
The dormant period should last 1.5–3 months, depending on the planned time for the subsequent flowering of the plant. During this time, the hippeastrum does not "show signs of life." The development of leaves and peduncles occurs only inside the bulb.
After the dormant period, it is time for the hippeastrum to wake up. Leaves and flower stalks appear on the surface of the bulb.
Simultaneous appearance of leaves and peduncle
Problems waking up after hibernation
If the bulb does not wake up, you can, of course, be patient and wait for it to wake up on its own. But, as a rule, full-fledged flowering from a “late” bulb will not work.
In this case, it is worth remembering in what state the plant “retired”. After all, the peduncle is laid in the bosom of every fourth leaf. If last year the green mass was not sufficiently grown, the bulb will be weakened.
And if there were less than four leaves, then in the new season the hippeastrum will certainly refuse to bloom. Dry content can hardly help here. Need to provide very warm temperature, actively water and feed.
Care mistakes and their correction
It is not very difficult to care for hippeastrum, but it is necessary to follow the rules of watering, feeding and lighting at different periods of the plant's life cycle.
Common hippeastrum care mistakes - table
| care mistakes | Their manifestation | Ways to fix |
| Lack of a dormant period (air temperature above 18 ° C, regular watering and / or top dressing) | Lack of bookmarking flower buds and, as a result, flowering. | Follow the described rules for watering and fertilizing, maintain temperature regime corresponding to each stage of the plant life cycle. |
| Low air temperature (below 17°C) during flowering | ||
| Poor lighting during active growth | ||
| Violation of the rules of watering and fertilizing (its absence) | ||
| Over watering | Abrupt cessation of growth, rotting of the bulb, development of pests in the soil. | Dig up, release from the ground, if necessary, remove the damaged parts of the plant, transplant into clean soil. |
| Keeping at low temperature or in damp | Darkening or blackening of colors. | Cut off damaged flowers, move the plant to a warm and dry place and adhere to optimal growing conditions. |
| Insufficient potash fertilization or keeping during the growing season in a room that is too dry | Browning of leaf tips. | Feed with mineral fertilizer containing macro- and microelements and carry out top dressing in accordance with the phase of plant development, humidify the air. |
| Too bright lighting | Fading of flowers. | Provide diffused lighting, avoiding direct sunlight. |
Diseases and pests of hippeastrum
Hippeastrum is not too susceptible to disease. It is most often affected by red burn (red burn fungus or stagonosporosis), red rot and downy mildew. Some pests can also bother this plant: spider mites, scale insect, aphid, worm. You can determine what a plant is sick with by its appearance.
The main diseases and pests of hippeastrum and how to deal with them - table
| Diseases and pests | Causes | External signsplant damage | Consequences | Prevention and treatment measures |
| Red burn (red burn fungus or stagonosporosis) | Fungal infectious disease. Mature spores are carried by the wind, infecting healthy plants. | Red oblong spots on all parts of the plant. | Severe damage leads to curvature and wilting of leaves and peduncles, disease of daughter bulbs | With a slight lesion, it is enough to spray the affected areas with fungicides. The effect of this procedure lasts up to a month. The most effective are products containing copper: copper sulphate, Hom, AbigaPik, Celeste Topa suspension concentrate. You can also use drugs such as Maxim and Rovral, Skor, Vitaros, Previkur, Ordan, Fundazol, Topaz. Bulbs with significant damage must be dug up, all diseased areas removed, including roots and peduncle (in a flowering plant). Only immediate treatment gives a positive result. Do not leave a diseased plant for a dormant period. Several effective ways to process bulbs:
After processing, the bulbs should be dried for at least two days. Plant them in clean soil and ensure that the soil is loosened daily until new roots form. |
| Viral disease. | Silver spots on leaves. | The softness of the leaves, weak, short peduncles or their absence. | Treat the leaves with a fungicide. | |
| Excessive waterlogging | Sluggishly hanging leaves, rot on the scales of the bulb and roots (on the upper scales it may look like red spots, as with a red burn). | Withering of the leaves, lack of peduncles, with severe damage - rotting of the root system and death of the plant. |
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| Infection from other plants or through open windows, buying an infected bulb. | White cotton-like coating secreted by mobile insects 0.5–1.2 mm in size. | Significantly slow down the development of plants, sucking the juice out of them. |
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| Shchitovka | small and dangerous pest indoor plants with a hard, shell-like surface that exudes pad (sticky liquid). | Creates a favorable environment for the development of various fungal diseases. Plants stop growing, drop leaves and flowers. |
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| Aphid | Dense clusters of sedentary green, gray or orange insects 1–5 mm in size on young shoots. | Sucks the juice from the plant. Buds, flowers and leaves lose color saturation and fall off. |
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| Cobwebs on the underside of the leaves, woven with an almost imperceptible tick, 0.1–0.3 mm in size. | The leaves and peduncle are covered with "marble" spots, become brittle, twisted, turn yellow and fall off. |
The most common diseases and pests of hippeastrum in the photo
Red scorched bulb 
leaves affected by stagonosporosis 
Partial defeat of the bulb with red rot 
The root system is almost completely destroyed by red rot 
Leaves and peduncle affected by downy mildew 
Abundant distribution of mealybug on leaves 
reproduction
Hippeastrums reproduce in two ways: seed and vegetative.
seed method
The seed method is quite complicated and lengthy. Seeds are formed only 1.5–2 months after flowering. But they do not form on their own. It is necessary to artificially pollinate pistils and stamens. The grown ovary looks like a large tricuspid box.
Hippeastrum seed ripening
Inside the box, rows of flattened seeds of irregular rounded shape are located. They are characterized by a black color with a brown tint and the presence of thin black wings.
Seeds ready for sowing
In the spring they are planted in sandy-leafy soil. It is important to consider that freshly harvested seeds have one hundred percent germination. From the dried seeds, as a rule, only 30% of the total germinate. Seedlings will please you in 15-5 days.
Germinated hippeastrum seeds
When the leaves grow to 6–10 cm, they are transplanted into pots, 6–7 cm in diameter. At this time, the bulb grows.
The grown seedlings of hippeastrum
The period before the first flowering of young plants different varieties ranges from two to five years. This method is more acceptable for breeders. Most amateur gardeners consider it costly and ineffective. At the same time, there is no guarantee that the maternal characteristics of the plant will be preserved.
Vegetative method
It is much easier to propagate hippeastrum vegetatively. Several variants are being practiced.
Reproduction by daughter bulbs
This is natural, and therefore the most optimal and simple way. Three year old bulbs proper care give usually 3 children.
Bulb separation
They are separated with a sterile sharp instrument, after treating the cuts with crushed coal. Planted in accordance with the rules for planting an adult bulb.
For two years, the newly planted plant is not deprived of foliage and is not sent to rest. The growth of the bulb and the formation of a peduncle in it depends on the intensity of leaf growth. With good care, children will throw out flower stalks in 2-3 years.
dividing the bulb
split bulb
The division is carried out during the maximum accumulation of nutrients in the bulb - in November.
Division process algorithm:
- Remove the top layer of soil, leaving only the bottom of the bulb in the soil.
- Remove outer dry scales.
- Cut the leaves along with the top of the bulb.
- Cut the bulb into four equal parts to the surface of the soil.
- Insert needles with a diameter of 5–6 cm into the cuts to prevent the parts of the bulb from closing.
- Adhere to all the rules for caring for an adult plant.
- With the appearance of leaves, carry out top dressing and continue to fertilize according to the standard scheme.
- Divide the bulb the next spring and plant the pieces in separate flowerpots.
You can divide the bulb in another way: cut it, leaving a piece of bottom and scales in each part. It is useful to sprinkle slices with wood or activated charcoal. The resulting slices are planted in a light peat mixture.
surface planting in a light substrate
After 40–50 days, babies appear, which must be planted in pots in the spring.
Attention! When seating, one should not forget about the presence of toxic substances in the hippeastrum bulbs and adhere to safety rules.
indoor flower hippeastrum is very popular. It pleases with the attractive appearance of its owners, it is especially good during flowering - once a year beautiful star flowers appear on it. Culture requires special care and maintenance, especially during the flowering period.
Botanical description
Hippeastrum (lat. Hippeástrum) is a variety of bulbous crops of the Amaryllis family. Refers to perennials. In the wild, it grows in South America, homeland - Mexico, Brazil. Found in alpine meadows and mountain slopes. It was brought to Europe in the 16th century, and appeared in Russia only in the middle of the 19th century.
In regions with a mild climate, hippeastrum is grown outdoors and indoors. The bulb of the flower is round, cone-shaped, 5-10 cm in size. At its base is a bundle-like root system, which is formed along the edge of the bottom. The roots are fleshy, soft, slightly branched. The foliage of the culture is linear, on the underside - keeled with a characteristic vein, on the top - grooved.
In the process of flower maturation, an alternation of leaves with a closed base / with an open one is observed. In the axil of the latter, an inflorescence is formed. The part of the stem on which the 4th leaves and the peduncle formed is a cycle.
During the growing season, two or three such periods are observed. After the appearance of the peduncle, an average of 1-1.5 years passes before it begins to bloom. The peduncle is a thin cylindrical stem, reaching a height of 30-80 cm. It is colored, depending on the species, in light or dark green. The surface is sliding, slightly covered with a wax coating.
The inflorescences are shaped like an umbrella. Flowers up to 15 cm long, up to 25 cm in diameter. The color differs depending on the hippeastrum variety. Most often, flowers are represented by white, pink and red shades. Has 6 stamens. The fruit of culture is a dry box. About 60-100 pieces of dark flat seeds are formed in it.
Species and varieties
The culture is often confused and mistakenly called amaryllis. In old sources, you can find that two different plants are called the same. In the mid 50s of XX century. The international congress decided to refer only the species A. beautiful (A. belladonna) to the genus Amaryllis.
It is easy to distinguish amaryllis from hippeastrum. The first species has 6-12 inflorescences and an incomplete peduncle, while the second has 6-7 inflorescences and a complete peduncle.
Modern garden hippeastrums are very diverse. Today you can find varieties with double and striped flowers. In total, about 600 hybrids of the culture are known. More often in indoor floriculture, G. hybrid is used (in another way, h. Hybrida). The plant is classified according to the size and shape of the flower.
In the catalog of hippeastrum varieties you can find:
- large-flowered. Represented by the following varieties: Hermes, Apple Blossom, Charisma, Minerva.
- mid-flowered. The most popular varieties: Magic Green, Lemo nStar.
- Small-flowered. Representatives are: Neon, Santa Cruz, Giraffe.
- Terry large-flowered. The most common varieties are Blossom Peakok, White Piakok, Aphrodite, Lady Jane.
- Medium-flowered terry. The group is represented by varieties Alfresco, Double Record, Pasadena.
- Small-flowered terry. The brightest representative is the Zombie variety; Siberian Representatives are La Paz, Esmeralda, Tiramisu, Rio Negro, Melfi.
- orchid. Common varieties - Papilio, Ruby Star, Exotic Star;
- Tubular. Represented by the following varieties Santiago, Pink Floyd, Rebecca.
Some varieties of hippeastrum in the photo:
Aphrodite
Santiago
Magic Green
Terry
Cultivation and care
When growing hippeastrum at home Special attention should be given to the care of hippeastrum after flowering.
The following conditions are required:
- Watering- moderate. Before the next moistening, the soil should be slightly dry. Practiced bottom and top watering. During the flowering period - plentiful. After the arrow is formed (4-5 cm), watering increases. Do not allow water to enter the bulb.
- Lighting- prefers bright and sunny places, but with diffused light.
- pruning. After the end of the flowering period, the peduncle is cut off. At the same time, feeding and watering do not stop - these activities are stopped only after a month.
- A place. Suitable for windows of any orientation. If the bulbs need to be grown, then preference is given to windows facing south, west or east.
- Temperature. Suitable temperature is 18-24°C. Mode below 5°C adversely affects the development of the flower.
- top dressing. Organic and mineral fertilizers are used for top dressing. They are brought in 2 times a month, alternating with each other. The optimal time for top dressing is May-August.
- Content in the open field. Care for hippeastrum in the open field is the same as for home maintenance. In some cases, watering becomes more intense.
- Baby Care. A flowering culture during the flowering period is protected from direct sunlight. If growth and development slows down, then the plant is moved to a warm place.
- Does not need irrigation. The leaves are regularly dusted.
Hippeastrum care secrets on video:
Resting state
For further successful flowering, the culture requires a dormant state. From the end of summer / beginning of autumn, preparations are gradually carried out. First, reduce watering and finish feeding. In November, soil moisture stops completely.
With a decrease in the period of natural light and lack of watering, the leaves fall off at the beginning of winter. The dormant state of the plant lasts from September to January. After the end, the bulb is transplanted to a new place. Next, the pot is placed on the windowsill.
Necessary conditions for keeping at rest: a suitable temperature is 12-15 ° C. The bulb can tolerate a short drop in temperature to -1 ° C, watering - dry content, moisture is not required. Lighting is the complete absence of light.
Important! Do not cut the foliage during the period of natural wilting - it leaves a reserve for subsequent development and flowering. The remaining nutrients go into the bulb.
Hippeastrum bloom
As a rule, the flowering of hippeastrum begins from February-March. Some varieties bloom in late spring and summer.
You can also achieve flowering yourself with the help of distillation:
- Method 1. The bulb is placed for 2 hours in a container with water (40-45 ° C). Flowering in many specimens begins on average after 3-4 weeks.
- Method 2. Watering is stopped at the end of August, after which the flower is placed in a dark place. In mid-January, watering resumes. The flowering of the Dutch hippeastrum after forcing begins after 1.5 months.
- Method 3. Watering is stopped at the end of July, the leaves are cut. A month later, moistening resumes, fertilizers are applied at the same time. With this method, flowering begins in August-September.
Transplanting a room lily
Indoor lily quickly absorbs all the nutrients. For this reason, it is recommended to transplant mature plants every 2 years. It is preferable to hold the event before rest or shortly before leaving dormancy. Estimated time August/January. Transplantation can be carried out in another period, having previously determined the timing of flowering. It occurs approximately 1-2 months after planting.
Before transplanting a plant, the soil mixture is first prepared. You can use universal ground. A prerequisite is good soil drainage. Next, the bulb is buried in the ground two-thirds of its height. Moisturizing begins with the appearance of peduncles.
Special attention is paid to the plant pot. It is preferable to use narrow and high containers, because. the root system of the flower goes down. The distance between the walls of the pot and the bulb should not exceed 3-4 cm.
Practicing for the summer landing hippeastrums in open ground on the site. Pronounced benefits - the plant enhances growth, the bulb becomes larger. But there is one drawback - the flower is more exposed to the risks of pest damage.
Reproduction methods
The culture propagates by children, seeds and dividing the bulbs. The last method is the most effective - it allows you to save all varietal characteristics. The easiest of all, but not always possible, is reproduction by children. In some cases, a daughter bulb is not formed from the mother bulb.
seed method
At home, hippeastrum is often grown from seeds. They are prepared independently, having previously pollinated the flower. Ripening takes place within 2 months. The box is cut off, then the seed material is taken out. After that, prepare the land and sow.
It is important not to delay this process, as the seeds quickly lose their germination. The container is covered with glass and waiting for the first shoots. They usually appear within 2-3 weeks. To accelerate the growth of young bulbs, a weak solution of mineral fertilizers is applied. From time to time, the container is ventilated and watered.
dividing the bulbs
How reproduction is carried out by dividing the bulbs: for this method, large bulbs of a brownish-golden color with smooth scales are selected. Cut them lengthwise into 4-6 parts. Each of them should have a part of the bottom and flake leaves inside the bulb. The part of the foliage that is in the embryonic state is removed.
The separated and prepared parts are cut, processed with dry coal. The next step is to dig into the sand. It is kept moist all the time.
About a month later, a pick is carried out - during this period, small roots and two full-fledged sheets should form. Subsequently, a transplant is carried out permanent place into the ground. Flowering of seedlings with proper care is observed after 3-5 years.
Reproduction by children
The method of reproduction conveys all the signs of the mother flower. First, the child onions are separated from the main one. Then they are buried in wet sand. Picking is carried out when two small leaves have formed in a young plant. After 8-12 months, the flower is transplanted into deeper pots.
Caring for children - regular watering is provided, top dressing is carried out. Flowering can be expected in 2-3 years.
Diseases and pests
Hippeastrum, both at home and when grown outdoors, is prone to diseases. Apart from characteristic features, there is a cessation of culture growth.
Spider mites, scale insects are pests that infect the plant. They are located under the scales of the bulbs and on the foliage. First, insects are removed with a rag soaked in an alcohol solution. Only then do they start processing. Suitable means are a solution of karbofos or Aktellik. If necessary, the plant is transplanted into a container with other soil.
Red bulb rot is a disease dangerous for the crop. If the appearance of the hippeastrum worsens or growth stops, it is necessary to dig up the flower and inspect the underground part. If foci of infection are found, damaged parts and dead roots are removed.
- treatment is carried out with Fundazol, dusting with ashes;
- after processing for a week, the bulb is dried;
- the earth mixture is watered with a special solution for disinfection (Fludioxonil is suitable);
- then they transplant to a new land and observe the plant.
Mosaic virus is another hippeastrum disease. When infected, yellowish spots appear on the leaves. The plant itself does not bloom and grows poorly.
The decrease in decorativeness or its complete loss is associated with improper conditions of detention. With excessive dampness / low temperature, the flowers may darken. What to do - rearrange the pot in a dry and warm place. Slight browning of the tips of the foliage may indicate a lack of potassium. In these cases, it is necessary to apply mineral fertilizers.
exposition
Several blooming hippeastrums in an apartment are a unique sight. You can plant bulbs of different varieties in one pot, for example, Grand Diva, Summertime, Rubistar. In some cases, flowers appear earlier than leaves; other crops with green foliage are planted with them. The pot is selected in accordance with the design of the room.
As a rule, forcing hippeastrums is carried out for some holiday, often preparing it for the New Year. The flower fits well into the interior of the room, decorating and transforming it. One or more pots with a flowering plant are placed in a prominent place. The culture is also used for cutting. Inflorescences in the phase of a blossoming bud retain freshness and appearance for 10 days, and at low temperatures - up to 18-20 days.
Forcing hippeastrum on video:
Hippeastrum is a flowering plant that will decorate any room. Recommendations regarding the care and maintenance of hippeastrum during flowering and dormancy will allow you to grow a strong and beautiful flower at home.