How to make a table for a schoolchild: ideas, drawings with dimensions, step-by-step instructions, photos and videos. Home desk: possible options How to make a school desk with your own hands drawings

The first means of preventing scoliosis among children is a properly selected children's desk. She spends a lot of time at school and at home. In educational institutions, specialists monitor the quality of children's jobs; at home, this is the responsibility of parents.

Comfortable children's adjustable desk for home study

The ideal school desk is comfortable, safe, and environmentally friendly. But these indicators alone are not sufficient, because each child is individual.

Children's home "growing" desks

Making your own will help you get the perfect desk. The main advantage is not so much the cost savings on buying a ready-made item, but the importance of matching the furniture specifically to your child.

DIY children's table and chair made from furniture board

Adjustable desk with storage box and chair

The first question: design and construction features. There are several options:

It is important to have drawers or a separate cabinet. They are convenient and necessary for storing writing instruments and educational materials. One drawer can be equipped with a lock; the child will be happy to hide his little secrets there.

Children's desk-transformer with drawers

Adjustable desk with pull-out cabinet

You can make a schoolchild's corner yourself. The design is equipped with a bedside table, drawers, shelves, which do not have to be additionally hung on the wall, spoiling the coating by drilling holes.

DIY wooden corner for a child with a table

Not easy to make, but the most functional version of the “transformer” type table. This DIY desk will last for many years because it “grows” with the child: the height of the legs and the tilt of the table top are adjustable.

A universal model of a children's table with height and tilt adjustment options

Preparation, assembly

Diagram of a small children's table and chair

The first step after determining the design and construction is to search for the appropriate assembly diagram, drawing on the Internet. Having selected the necessary documentation for making a desk with your own hands, prepare the necessary materials, components, and fittings.

Detailing drawing for an older student's desk

It's time to start the assembly process. An example is a desk consisting of four parts. Advantages: simplicity of design, strength, stability, significant savings in materials.

A simple non-adjustable desk for a student

It can be assembled from sheets of laminated chipboard, MDF or solid wood.

Having determined the material, prepare the tools. You will need:

1. finishing for the ends, special glue (when using chipboard);
2. screwdriver;
3. furniture screws, decorative masking of screws;
4. electric drill, set with drills;
5. yardstick;
6. sandpaper/sanding machine (when working with natural wood);
7. paint, painting machine (MDF/solid).

Tools for making furniture at home

Thorough preparation is the key to quick and efficient assembly.

It can be done in just 4 steps.

If the final testing showed that the height of the furniture was not 100% correct, the excess can be corrected with the help of a suitable chair.

DIY assembled tables and chairs for children

You should buy a chair with adjustable height and raise the seat to the desired level.

Children's chair, height adjustable

The elbows of a sitting child should be freely placed on the tabletop, the legs should reach the floor (another support), and the knees should be bent at an angle of 90-100 degrees.

Correct seating at a desk

Follow sanitary standards, and then you will keep the student’s posture healthy!

Homemade adjustable desk for a schoolchild

Video: Child's table without effort

Hello friends! Our cardboard workshop received an order to design and manufacture comfortable and durable school furniture for dolls from cardboard. It was necessary to make a school board, a desk and a teacher's table with a chair. Moreover, the furniture was intended for playing with dolls 30-40 cm tall.

The play furniture turned out to be quite large (for a doll size). For a more visual understanding, here are the general sizes of items from our set:

— school board: width — 31.8 cm, height - 35 cm, width of racks - 16 cm;

— table (length×width×height): 30×17×20 cm;

- chair: seat - 10×10 cm, height - 21 cm;

- desk: length - 31 cm, width - 30 cm, height - approx. 20 cm, bench - 10×30 cm.

This is what a school desk looks like:

And here you can take a closer look at the chair.

Our model doll is very comfortable both at the table and at the desk. :)

Thanks to the use of several layers of cardboard, the furniture is actually durable enough for long-term use. No worse than plywood. And the undoubted advantage is that it is much easier to make furniture from cardboard with your own hands. I will now show you exactly how and tell you in detail.

Master class: how to make doll school furniture from cardboard

Materials and tools:

— sheets of A4 size office paper (for printing templates);
— packaging corrugated cardboard (3 mm thick);
- standard (stationery) knife;
— creasing tool;
- metal ruler;
- scissors;
- double sided tape;
- Moment Crystal glue, toothpick;
- hot glue gun (optional).

As you can see, the materials needed to make doll furniture from cardboard are more than affordable. Getting packaging corrugated cardboard is now not at all a problem: you can find something at home in the pantry or on the mezzanine, huge quantities of used boxes are recycled in furniture and grocery stores - and there you can quite get the necessary amount of cardboard, and for free.

You can also inexpensively buy corrugated cardboard sheets individually at craft stores, packaging stores, or directly at a cardboard factory (if you have one nearby). In this case, I recommend choosing three-layer corrugated cardboard brand T-24- it's denser. But in principle, softer cardboard of the T-23 brand is also suitable.

The process of making furniture for dolls, like all our cardboard toys, begins with preparing templates.

Generally speaking, having familiarized yourself with the technology itself, you can, if you wish, design doll furniture according to your dimensions.

Or you can use ready-made templates, carefully calculated and tested in practice. A set of templates for making doll furniture “Playing at School” can be ordered from.

PREPARATION OF TEMPLATES

So, if you took advantage of our offer, print the templates on sheets of A4 office paper.

Cut out small templates (which fit entirely on an A4 sheet) with small allowances.

Glue large templates according to the composition diagrams (see example). And also cut with small allowances.

Place pieces of double-sided tape on the back of the templates. Each template must then be attached to purl side of the corrugated cardboard.

Note: The templates have a special round icon indicating the recommended direction of the waves of the corrugated layer. That is, the lines inside this icon should be approximately parallel to the lines that are visible on the wrong side of the cardboard.

It is not necessary to follow this direction exactly. Sometimes you have to adjust to the size of an existing piece of cardboard.

Just keep in mind that a cut made transverse to the direction of the waves of the corrugated layer will be stronger and more rigid. And, conversely, a cut made along the waves wrinkles easily.

Therefore, you need to try to ensure that, if possible, all the edges of the parts are exactly across the waves. In addition, they will look more aesthetically pleasing.

Well, now you can proceed directly to making doll furniture with your own hands. Let's start by making a chair and a table.

TEACHER CHAIR FOR DOLLS

Using a standard (stationery) knife, cut out the chair parts according to the templates S-4.1, S-4.2, S-4.3 And S-4.4. Long straight lines are cut using a ruler, short and curved sections are cut by hand.

On details S-4.1 Use the tip of a knife to mark the fold lines (before cutting out the part). Having cut out the part, we crease it. A creasing stick used in scrapbooking is suitable for this operation. You can also score with the end of a flat-head screwdriver or scissors (you just need to act carefully so as not to tear the cardboard: the tool must be tilted as close to the surface of the cardboard as possible).

Carefully bend the part S-4.1.

Cutting out the details S-5.1, S-5.2, S-6. There is no need to score anything here. And we will make the folds on the parts in the following way: along the blue lines on the template, we will make cuts to approximately half the thickness of the cardboard (be careful not to cut through), and then separate 2 layers of cardboard in the areas between the cut lines.

To make the layers easier to separate, first bend the piece outward along the score lines. In the end it should look like this.

The chair parts are ready. Let's start assembling.

Glue the part S-5.2 inside the part S-5.1 with “Moment Crystal” glue. It is enough to apply glue along the edges and around the holes. To prevent excess from leaking out, spread the glue with a toothpick into a thin layer.

Glue the second part of the part S-5.1- it turned out to be the seat of a chair. Gluing the halves of the part S-6(back of chair). At the same time, we apply glue to single-layer areas.

Place the glued parts under a press for a short time (for example, several books) for a reliable connection.

Notice how neat and precise the end of the seat turned out - this is due to the fact that in this area we separated 2 layers of cardboard.

Inside details S-4.1 glue the part first S-4.2, then - S-4.3 And S-4.4 right sides facing out.

Check: when bending the chair legs, the specified parts must fit together exactly at right angles.

When the chair legs are dry, glue them to the seat. Pour glue into the slots of the seat, and use a toothpick to lubricate the protrusions on the legs. We connect the parts as shown in the photo.

Glue the back of the chair. Here, in addition to the protrusion and slot, we also lubricate the back surface of the legs with glue.

We connect everything, press and hold until the glue sets.

The cardboard doll chair is ready.

TEACHER'S TABLE FOR DOLLS

Now let's figure out how to make a table for a doll.

Cutting out the details S-1.1 And S-1.2: 2 pcs. with slots and 1 pc. - without slits.

Cut out 2 parts S-2 and table top details S-3.1 And S-3.2.

Glue the doll table supports using Moment Crystal glue: 1 piece S-1.1/S-1.2 without slot + 2 parts S-1.1/S-1.2 with slots. In this case, the parts must be positioned so that on both sides of the support the cardboard is facing out.

We also glue the cross member.

And we glue the tabletop: first we glue part C-3.2 inside part C-3.1, then we bend and glue the free halves. Don't forget to apply glue to single-layer areas as well.

The table elements are ready. Assembling: glue the supports and crossbar, then glue the tabletop. For this operation, you can use a hot glue gun. It will be faster and stronger this way.

That's all. The doll table is ready!

Let's move on to the next piece of doll school furniture.

SCHOOL DESK FOR DOLLS

We cut out the support parts using the templates P-1.1 And P-1.2(2 pcs.), P-2.1 And P-2.2(1 piece each), P-3(2x3 pcs.).

To speed up the process, repeating parts can be cut in 2 layers: Place 2 pieces of cardboard with right sides facing each other and secure the edges with pieces of masking tape. In this case, you will not need to print additional templates.

But cutting in 2 layers requires more effort. Therefore, if this method turns out to be inconvenient, it is better to cut all the parts in 1 layer. It will be more careful.

Cutting out the bench parts P-5.1 And P-5.2, P-6.1 And P-6.2. Don’t forget: we only make cuts along the blue lines, then separate the 2 layers of cardboard between them.

Cutting out the details of the crossbars for the desk P-7 And P-8— 3 pcs.

Using the P-8 template, you need to cut out 3 parts, slightly different in size (3 parallel lines are drawn along one long edge of the template). You can do this as follows:

- attach the template to the cardboard and use the point of a compass (or a sewing needle) to mark all the corners of the part along the outer contour;

- transfer the template to a free section of cardboard and mark the corners of the part with the point of a compass, but now using the middle of 3 parallel lines along one long edge;

- transfer the template again and mark the corners of the smallest part.

Mark with a pencil which part is which and where the top is, so you don’t get confused later when gluing. The differences in size are necessary so that the upper end of the crossbar is at an angle corresponding to the inclination of the desk top.

In addition, we cut out the details of the desk base P-9(6 pcs.). The photo shows parts with rounded corners (although on the templates all corners are straight - for ease of cutting). If you wish, you can do this too. To do this, use nail scissors to round each corner of the part, first cutting off only the top layer of cardboard, then only the bottom.

The tabletop for the desk is made in the same way as for the teacher's desk.

Glue all the parts together as shown in the photo. The principle, I think, is already clear.

And let's start assembling. At this stage, you can use a hot glue gun. Or you can continue to use Moment Crystal glue.

We glue the bench parts together by inserting the tabs into the grooves.

We assemble the desk: first we glue the supports and crossbars, then we glue the tabletop.

Glue the desk to the base.

And glue the bench to the base.

The school desk for dolls is ready!

SCHOOL BOARD FOR DOLLS

The final element of our furniture set.

Cutting out the details D-1(1×2 pcs.), D-2.1 And D-2.2(2x2 pcs.).

If desired, here you can use the method of cutting 2 layers of cardboard (see description above).

Cutting out the details D-3, D-4 And D-5.

Glue the board itself: inside the part D-3 glue the parts D-4 And D-5 as shown in the photo. Apply glue only to the edges and spread a thin layer with a toothpick.

We bend and glue the outer parts of the board.

Apply glue in the gap between the main part of the board and the shelf. Bend the shelf and press until the glue sets.

All that remains is to glue the board to the supports. And you're done!

Puppet school board in all its glory. :)

Let's admire the doll furniture in action a little more.

The school furniture for dolls turned out just like the real thing, durable and comfortable. And, most importantly, it is harmless - there are no sharp corners, no small parts that break off, and the material is environmentally friendly!

On the spacious shelf of the board (its width is 4 cm) you can put homemade visual aids, mini-books, pieces of chalk or a felt-tip pen.

You can attach a sheet of paper to the board and write problems on it, or you can glue a special film that imitates a blackboard, and then you can even write with crayons - in general, everything will be for real! And the children will be delighted!

If desired, cardboard doll furniture can be painted. It is better to use acrylic paints for this.

Although, in my opinion, it’s very stylish anyway. :)

Now you know how to make furniture for dolls from cardboard. And you can easily make the same one with your own hands for your children or for your group in kindergarten. And our templates will help you with this!

I wish you pleasant creativity and entertaining games with your children!

If you have any questions about making doll furniture, write them in the comments. I will be glad to clarify all points.

Yours Inna Pyshkina and the Kartonkino team.

A growing desk with your own hands, drawings, diagrams and functional dimensions of the table that can ensure the normal and healthy development of the child during classes.

The requirements for children's tables are regulated by GOST 11015-93 “Student's tables”. Based on the specified GOST, they are produced in six numbers and have their own color marking depending on the average height of the student.

The model described in this article allows you to adjust the desk according to two functional sizes to suit the average student’s height from 105 to 180 (cm):

• along the height of the working plane from 460 to 760 (mm) (∆h = h1 – h = 300) with an interval of 50 (mm)
• by the angle of rotation of the working plane from 0 to 16° (∆φ = φ1 – φ = 16) (four positions 7, 10, 13.16°)

The presented model consists of three assembly units:

1. Tabletop.
2. Movable stands.
3. Fixed stands.

1. TABLETOP

The size of the working plane is 500x700x20 (mm). The desk cover (1) is installed horizontally or fixed at an angle of 7, 10, 13 or 16°. Two plates are welded to a square pipe (2) 15x1.5 (mm): fastening the rotary axis (3); fixing the angle of rotation of the tabletop (4). The tube (2) is attached to the tabletop with four screws (6). The end plane is closed with a decorative plug (5). The tabletop has two recesses 220x20x5 (mm) for pencils, pens and other accessories.

2. MOVABLE STANDS

The structure is welded from metal pipes: square (3) fifteen; rectangular (6) size 35x15x2.5 (mm). To increase the rigidity of the structure, a plate (4) in the form of a right triangle with sides of 20 and 50 (mm) is welded to the corner joints. A wooden shelf (1) measuring 700 x 107 x 20 (mm) with a stop (2) is attached to the pipes. The end plane of the pipe is closed with a decorative plug (5).

3. FIXED STANDS

Welded from rectangular pipes (1) 40x2x2.5 (mm). By analogy with movable jays, a plate (3) is welded to the corner joints. The end is closed with a decorative plug (3).

The figure shows desks with minimum and maximum size changes.

The son is growing up and he needs a workplace to practice literacy, draw, read, etc. Moreover, this place should not be at a coffee table, but a full-fledged one that instills correct posture. In short, it should be a desk for growth, that is, with varying height.

Just in the garage there were several MDF parts lying around that I couldn’t figure out where to stick (after all, you couldn’t put an edge on them, and the dimensions didn’t allow them to be used entirely). And then it dawned on me that in size this is a finished tabletop, and if you cut something out of them, you can close the edges!!!

The table should consist of two halves: a base standing on the floor and a tabletop moving up and down along the guides. The legs and tabletop are MDF, the rest is chipboard scraps.

So, I started with MDF. I drew out the outline of the legs on pieces of hardboard and cut them out with a jigsaw. The edges were smoothed with a sander, making a solid smooth outline (according to the markings).

I copied the second part using a milling cutter. I described in detail about the production of parts with radii.

I immediately selected a groove for the edge using a disk cutter. I didn’t touch the legs because I wanted to make sharp corners.

The next stage was the manufacture of racks for the table top. (under them I found a couple of parts sawed on a format machine and never used, even covered with PVC edges on three sides). I laid them on the legs and marked the edges (the guide bars will subsequently be screwed along these lines).
I moved on to the guide bars themselves. Since the desk should have a tricky shape, you decided to abandon the rectangular profile and made them in the form of a “stroke.” I estimated the dimensions and curvature by eye so that they would not go beyond the contours of the supports. One edge (along which the stand will slide should be smooth, preferably with a PVC edge - it is more wear-resistant) I cut it out with a jigsaw and polished it with a belt sander.
If you put everything together, you get this sandwich. Naturally, all parts are made in duplicate (and given that MDF is one-sided, it is mirrored)

Then I sawed the drawer for the base and the shelf under it with a length of +32 mm relative to the drawer. As well as a drawer and a shelf under the tabletop of equal length.

The next stage is this. I will not dwell on this in detail - everything has already been described earlier. I’ll just say that I only put the piping on the legs and one shelf (there wasn’t enough anymore) and rolled the rest in melamine.

Now comes the fun part - assembly. All of it was carried out on confirmations. I started, as usual, with the base of the table. I twisted the front guide bars with the frame and screwed the bottom shelf to them (it was made for greater structural rigidity).

Having placed the support on the workbench and aligned it along the marking lines that were drawn at the very beginning, I first screwed the entire block to the support. Fastening was carried out with a pair of self-tapping screws (then I will cover it with self-adhesive plugs). After the front beam was fixed, I put the tabletop stand in place and attached the second beam, fixing it in the same way.

We perform all the same manipulations with the second support. For some reason I didn’t take a photo of how I assembled the stand under the tabletop, but the principle is exactly the same: the drawer and shelf are pulled together at an angle, which are screwed to the stands from the sides.

As a result, we get a couple of ready-made blocks like this.

They fit into each other quite tightly. All that remains is to screw the tabletop.
This shortcoming was quickly corrected. In order not to strain too much with the markings, I screwed them onto four plastic corners.

Basically, all that remains is to drill a number of holes in the racks for the table top and one opposite in the support and drive a bolt there. Although, I'm thinking of using a driven-in adjustable support as a “wing”, and instead of a through hole in the support, drive a driven-in nut into it, like this:

But this is in the foreseeable future. While my Yaroslav's size is on time, I ran to work.

Well, and finally, a few photos from other angles.

Children have to spend a lot of time studying. Take care of the convenience of work and the correct position of their back by making a children's desk with your own hands.

This universal product, due to the ability to adjust its height to suit the child’s individual parameters, is suitable for schoolchildren of absolutely any age.

Such a desk will provide ideal posture and reduce the load on the visual apparatus. Of course, you can buy a rare desk, which an experienced craftsman will restore to excellent condition, but if you have the materials, tools and skills, why not try making a desk yourself?

Base

From the end part of the guide element you need to make a 10x10 mm groove, round the edges, fix the leg components together using threaded rods (GOST 22042-76), washers (6958-78) and M8 wing nuts (3032-76).

To attach the top shelf and the foot shelf, you can use confirmats or wood screws.

Lifting mechanism

The starting material is planed board.

Grooves of 10x10 mm should be milled from the outer sides of the guide elements, at their end.

In the center it is necessary to make through holes with a diameter of 20 mm.

Tabletop

The starting material is a sheet of plywood.

To make the rotating mechanism you will need 2mm sheet metal. It is attached to the tabletop using wood screws. Instead of metal, you can use wooden blocks to make the turning mechanism.

All that remains is to insert the lifting mechanism into the grooves and attach the tabletop to the mechanism that regulates the lift using studs, M8 nuts and washers.

The children's desk is ready.

The presented model allows:

— adjust the height of the desk within 570-720 mm in increments of 50 mm;

— vary the tilt angle from 0 to 90° in 5° increments.

The optimal angle of inclination of the tabletop for drawing is in the range of 0-5°, for writing – from 10 to 15°, for reading – 20-30°.

The desk can be equipped with shelves and niches for storing office supplies.

If you have any questions or difficulties, the Home Master will help, who can be found on the online service ordering service.

Good luck to you! May everything work out for you!