How to build a fireplace at home. How to lay out a fireplace with your own hands: types of fireplaces, try to lay out a brick fireplace yourself

Throughout time, the main place in the house was given to the hearth. Recently, fireplaces in houses and cottages have become very popular, and the question of how to build a fireplace with your own hands is quite relevant.

Any stove or fireplace must meet the following requirements:

No smoke.
Heating the room.
Beautiful appearance.

To achieve these goals, all stages of construction must be followed.

Location

The very first step involves choosing the location of the fireplace; not only saving living space, but also its efficient heating depends on this.

First you need to decide on the type of structure.

The fireplace stove can have the following design options:

Wall-mounted.
Angular.
Built-in.
Ostrovny.

Based on this, the home owner can choose a suitable location for the fireplace.

When planning the location, it is necessary to take into account that it is not advisable to install a fireplace stove opposite a window, since the heat will escape out the window. In addition, it is necessary to strictly follow fire safety rules; a fireplace is a source of heat, not fire.

Materials

Making fireplaces begins with the selection of materials. For construction we will need:

Red ceramic brick. Its quantity is calculated based on the prepared drawing, while all incomplete bricks must be taken into account as whole.
River sand. Be sure to sift and clear of dirt and debris. The grain size of the material should be within the normal range (0.2–1.5 mm).
Crushed stone for making a foundation. The acceptable fraction should be from 2 to 6 cm.
Blue Cambrian clay or regular red.
Cement (M 200 or M 300).
Smoke damper.
Fittings.

Brick and its varieties

Throughout the entire period of kiln construction, solid red brick, which is made from clay, is used.

This material is used to lay out the outer parts of fireplaces. Therefore, a lot depends on the quality of the brick.

The brick must have the following properties:

Have the correct shape;
Contain no cracks or gouges.
Have no deformations;

The interior of the fireplace is lined with fireproof fireclay bricks or quartz material.

Material quality requirements

When purchasing a brick, you need to pay attention to the following parameters:

The material must correspond to a grade of at least M200.
The required quantity of bricks must be purchased from one batch.
The appearance of the brick should not contain cracks or chips.

Preparation

This stage consists of the process of preparing materials. Particular attention, of course, is paid to the brick, but in addition to it, other components will be needed.

You will need a clay mixture, which is thoroughly cleaned of unnecessary impurities and wiped. Before laying, this mixture is soaked for about 2–3 hours.

The sand that will participate in the solution must also be cleaned; it will be enough to sift it through a sieve with fine holes.

Having completed this, you can begin to prepare the solution, the proportion of which must be strictly observed. Based on the fat content of the clay, the ratio of sand and clay should look like 1:1 or 1:2.

The resulting solution should not spread on the surface of the brick, but at the same time slide off it with ease.

Pouring the foundation

To pour the foundation for the fireplace/stove, you will need the following materials and tools:

roulette;
Bulgarian;
welding machine;
hammer + nails;
board;
fittings;
cement (grade M400).

The first thing you need to do is formwork from edged boards. It must be securely installed and have a height of 8–10 cm. The reinforcing rod is laid in 19 cm increments, after which perpendicular rows of rods are laid. The joints of the rods must be secured by welding.

The solution must be poured in two stages. The first involves a layer of concrete of 4 cm, then it is necessary to lay the sheathing, after which the last layer is poured, the height of which should be about 6 cm.

To ensure that the finished foundation does not contain voids, the solution is plowed a little with a free rod.

After this, the foundation must be left alone. Its drying time can vary from 15 to 18 days, depending on the conditions.

Fireplace masonry

This process is quite simple; after reading the article, you will learn: how to build a fireplace yourself from brick? In order to carry out the masonry correctly, it is necessary to strictly follow the construction plan.

DIY fireplace

The laying is carried out according to the following scheme:

Several layers of waterproofing material are laid on top of the foundation base.
For the first row, cement is added to the mortar, and the bricks are laid on slats.
The third row has small nuances, namely the installation of two pins, which will be needed a little later for the fireplace grate.
In order to fold the fireplace-stove correctly, you must adhere to the diagram or drawing.
To maintain the temperature regime in the future structure, it is necessary to ensure that the outer wall of the brick fireplace does not come into contact with the firebox.
To remove excess solution from the walls of the firebox, its surface is cleaned with a damp cloth.
To improve the quality of heating, it is necessary to maintain a slight angle of inclination of the rear wall forward. The side walls are designed to be turned outward.
To avoid the possibility of fire, it is necessary to take precautions and protect the floor in front of the fireplace with a sheet of iron.

Folding the fireplace stove is half the battle; you need to make a smoke collector.

The principle of its laying is to lay out bricks with a gradual overlap. Portal-type holes inside are blocked using jumpers, which can be made in several ways:

arched,
wedge,
vaulted.

To correctly lay out the smoke collector, it is necessary to maintain its verticality. Once you have crossed the floor with the roof, you can begin building the roof pipe. This masonry is done on a cement-sand mixture.

By following these rules, you can easily design a stove or fireplace yourself. Now all that remains is to deal with the chimney.

Chimney

If the chimney structure is made of brick, it is necessary to consider a foundation or a steel frame for it, which will rest against the main foundation. The chimney itself is located on the outside of the firebox and wrapped in thermally insulating material. The top of the chimney is sheathed with a sheet of steel or aluminum.

Using ready-made pipe sections for the chimney, special clamps are used as fastenings, with the help of which the structure is fixed to the floors of buildings. This chimney option can do without a foundation.

Finishing work

In addition to the fact that the fireplace-stove can be decorated with a colored joint, the brick itself can possibly be repainted in a different color. For these purposes, tempera or gouache is used.

The decoration for the corner version of the fireplace can be tiles or marble tiles, stone or decorative brick. If desired, you can simply plaster the surface or use other decorative elements.

The modern market offers a large number of elements for decoration, including wooden parts. For safety reasons, their use is not recommended.

The decoration is fastened using regular tile adhesive, and the decoration itself should start from the bottom of the fireplace, gradually rising.

If your fireplace or stove already contains marble parts, it is recommended to cover them with cellophane to avoid scratches.

For the firebox, you can use fireclay bricks, and for cladding, choose a material of a different quality.

The chimney structure can be made not only of brick, but also of special modules in the form of a metal or ceramic pipe.

To reduce errors when building fireplaces, it is recommended to use ready-made drawings rather than developing them yourself.

When designing a fireplace, you can focus on built-in shelves or firewood racks, this will give the structure a more aesthetic appearance.

From the above material we can conclude that laying a fireplace is a fairly simple process. All you need is to follow all the instructions and recommendations, then the question is: how to build a fireplace? won't take you by surprise.

Video: How to make a brick fireplace with your own hands

You can lay out a brick fireplace with your own hands in a country house, in a cottage, in a private townhouse - that is, in your own house on the ground; for apartments such a task is too complicated in engineering terms. This work cannot be called simple and quick, but with due persistence and responsibility, it is quite possible to acquire a personal fireplace.

Fireplaces - brief description

Any fireplace with a real flame is a simple open stove with a chimney hood. The spectacle of dancing flames fascinates and attracts the eye for many hours; crackling firewood with shimmering sparks creates a unique sound background, but the downside of such design effects is low heat transfer. The efficiency of fireplaces does not exceed 25%; all other thermal energy literally “flies down the drain.” It will not be possible to heat a large room in winter using only an open fire; it is necessary to provide additional heating options - warm floors, convection heating, etc.

A typical brick fireplace design consists of a combustion chamber (firebox), which expands towards the portal. This increases heat transfer into the room. The deep design of the firebox reduces the already low fireplace efficiency, so fireplaces in private homes are built wide and relatively flat. The location of the man-made hearth can be the end wall or the corner between it and the internal walls of the house. It is not allowed to place fireplaces opposite window openings; this leads to a decrease in the thermal effect and strong drafts. The foundation at the installation site must be very strong, because a brick fireplace weighs less than 600-700 kg. If the strength of the ground floor floor is not designed for such a load, it will have to be additionally equipped (see below).

Calculation and diagram of a brick fireplace

In this section, you cannot do without boring numbers and calculations, but if you skip it, the result of your construction efforts will be too funny, especially for your envious people and ill-wishers. Main dimensions of the future fireplace:

The area of the combustion chamber directly depends on the volume of the heated room in a ratio of 1:100. That is, for a hall of 100 m2 it is necessary to provide at least 1 square meter for the firebox - and the area of the fireplace itself will be larger by the thickness of its walls;
The ratio of firebox depth to width is maintained within 1:2.5-2:3, i.e. height is always greater than width. For example, for a small combustion chamber of 0.5 m2, the optimal depth will be 30-50 cm - accordingly, we allocate a width of 1 to 1.4 meters.
The “front” opening of the firebox, its portal bursting with heat, is usually elongated in height in a ratio of 2:3. For the already mentioned firebox area of 0.5 m2, the brick portal will be 60-70 by 80-90 centimeters - there is room for man-made fire to unfold;
The area of the smoke hole is also tied to the area of the combustion chamber with a scaling of 10-15 to one. The height of chimneys should not exceed 4-5 meters, otherwise the draft will be insufficient.

Laying a fireplace with your own hands will require preliminary drawing efforts, because each brick row must be drawn to scale, preferably on lined paper. Each tier of bricks is indicated by a symbol; the need for pre-processing of the blocks is taken into account - after all, halves, quarters, and bricks sawn off at an angle will be used. In addition, such a drawing will help to accurately calculate the amount of material - fireplace bricks are not cheap, no one needs an extra overpayment

How to build a fireplace with your own hands - choose the material

The choice of building materials when laying a fireplace with your own hands must be taken not just responsibly, but meticulously. One defective block, walled up in the fireplace wall, will become a real enemy agent in your own home, a malicious saboteur. It will be extremely difficult to “expose” him; who would want to go through the entire fireplace again?

Therefore, each brick for fireplace work is carefully selected and inspected. The surface of the brick should be smooth, the color should be a thick and uniform orange-red. Brick corners should be clear, without chips, the sound of hitting a brick with a hammer should be clean and uniform. Pay attention to the brick fractures; if the quality is poor, they are not uniform in color and texture. Melts or whitish spots on the brick surface are unacceptable; they indicate irregularities during firing. An average-sized fireplace will require from 250 to 350 bricks.

Other materials you need to stock up on:

Fireproof clay. It will require about 0.1 m 3 for every 100 bricks, and at least 0.2 m 3 kg for the foundation;
Cement grades from 200, can be packaged, in the amount of 30 kg per 100 bricks;
Crushed stone for pouring the foundation, fractions from 3 to 6 centimeters;
Clean construction sand with a grain size of up to 1.3 mm - 0.5 m 3 for the entire masonry and about 0.3 m 3 for the concrete base;
Reinforcing bars d = 8-10 mm (length up to 80 cm, up to 20 pcs.).

Do-it-yourself brick fireplace - foundation arrangement

A strong supporting foundation must be laid in any brick fireplace project, otherwise the entire heavy structure may unpredictably fall apart. Unfortunately, such a foundation is rarely laid at the stage of capital construction of a building. For a solid brick fireplace you will need:

A mini-pit is at least half a meter deep and its width and length are 30-35 cm larger than the dimensions of the fireplace itself;
Place sand or a sand-gravel mixture at the bottom of the pit, depending on the soil moisture. If the soil in your region is of the heaving type, lay the sand and gravel base in a dug mini-pit, in several layers, tamping each layer;
Place wooden formwork on flat gravel that is 15-20 cm larger than the fireplace dimensions, accurately aligning its edges with level. Place reinforcing bars in the formwork crosswise, welding their joints welding machine. The height of the formwork depends on the weight of the fireplace, but must be at least 15 cm;
Pouring formwork with cement-gravel-sand mortar. After it hardens, the gap between the fireplace foundation and the old floor is filled with clean sand. Direct contact between them is prohibited - different levels of load will lead to cracking of the joint line, and sand will serve well as a deformation compensator. The foundation level can be 5-7 cm lower than the floor level in the room.

You should start building a brick fireplace with your own hands after the concrete foundation has hardened, which should take at least 2 days. Hundreds of kilograms of heavy construction must have a completely “grown”, even and strong base. Clay for joints is soaked 5-7 days before laying in a large barrel; it must be stirred periodically. The sand for the solution is sifted and washed several times. Immediately before laying on the mortar, each brick block is soaked in a bucket of water for 15-20 seconds to remove air pockets, even if the brick is fireproof.

Preparatory activities do not end with carefully pouring the foundation. It is necessary to correctly mix the installation mortar, mark it and accurately carry out the laying

How to build a fireplace with your own hands - masonry and finishing

Step 1: Step 1. Mixing the solution

Fill the sand, dried after washing, with clay until it looks like thick jelly. The mixture should not be runny or stick to the skin of your hands; at the same time, the dryness of the solution is unacceptable. It should not disintegrate into separate fragments during molding. The easiest way to check the quality of the mortar for laying fireplaces is with the “sausage test”. A small piece with a diameter of a couple of centimeters is rolled out from the sand-clay mixture - if its sausage shape does not crumble on its own and does not stick to your hands, the solution is optimal for the job.

Step 2: Step 2. Drawings and layouts

We lay a layer of rolled insulation on the foundation under the fireplace dimensions. On the back wall of the room we draw a drawing of the part of the fireplace structure that will be adjacent to it. Next, we lay out the first continuous row dry, taking into account the location of each refractory element.

This is the main difference between fireplace masonry and the construction of walls from any blocks - each layer of the structure is first measured dry, the elements are laid evenly and each in its place. The sawn-off areas must be immured in mortar; they must not be exposed to the front and sides. Refractory bricks are cut with a hacksaw or grinder with a diamond blade. Each silicate element can be numbered and its location on the base can be marked with the same number.

Step 3: Step 3. Laying the fireplace itself

The foundation and floor mortar is applied under each brick. Work begins from the corners, checking each plumb and level; you can use auxiliary equipment made from steel bars or angles. The entire layer is removed between the brick beacon corners, only then they move on to the next one. The height seams are made thin in order to minimize cracking of the mortar in the future. The seams in the depths, in the core of the masonry, can be made somewhat thicker.

Excess mortar is removed after installing each brick element, it is once again exposed to dryness - as they say, “situated in place”. In this case, the required amount of solution required to completely fill the joints, without gaps and voids, is immediately assessed. The laid brick rows are measured for compliance with horizontal standards, and pre-established angles are also checked by plumb line. If a deviation was discovered, the brick was removed and re-laid; correcting horizontal and vertical flaws when laying subsequent levels is prohibited.

The inside of the hearth must be smooth, otherwise the fireplace will hum and deteriorate over time. If there are differences in internal dimensions, for example, when the structure narrows towards the chimney, each brick will have to be hewn out; sealing irregularities with mortar is prohibited. Such “internal plaster” will quickly fly around and clog the chimney. Small irregularities in bricks and seams inside the fireplace are smoothed out with a sponge soaked in clay mortar.

Step 4: Step 4. Installation of metal elements and trim

If the design of a brick fireplace includes a metal portal edging, then heat-resistant steel with a thickness of 3 mm or more is used. The metal frames are leveled and filled with mounting solution. Asbestos expansion joints are installed at the points of contact between steel elements and bricks, because metal expands more when heated and can deform the front (most visible!) surface of the fireplace.

Under no circumstances should the metal elements of the portal be considered load-bearing structures! If the top strip of the edging bears even a small weight of the overlying bricks, after the very first kindling it will bend and all the work will go down the drain. In general, during your first experiments with fireplace work, it is better to do without metalizing the portal; this procedure is quite complicated, and its violation can lead to the failure of the entire project.

The cladding of fireplace walls is done with special heat-resistant tiles - and their installation is as painstaking as the installation of the fireplace itself. As an alternative to tiles, fire-resistant paints are used, and they can be used to paint the brick surface itself or only thin inter-brick joints. However, high-quality refractory bricks do not require additional finishing work.

Fireplaces simultaneously heat and decorate the surrounding space. You can handle laying a brick fireplace on your own. You just need to read the manual and do everything in accordance with the instructions.

Remember to have an efficient and reliable chimney. The standard length of the smoke exhaust structure is 4-5 m. In some situations, this figure increases to 700 cm.

In a room with a fireplace, high-quality ventilation must be organized.

The actual construction of the fireplace is carried out on a solid platform that can support the weight of the finished structure.

Determination of basic dimensions

Perform the necessary preliminary calculations. Determine the volume of the room allocated for the construction of the fireplace. The firebox opening should be 1/50 of the room volume you calculated.

The height of the portal should be 2 times the depth of the firebox.

The dimensions and ratios given are very important. If the depth of the firebox is greater than the permissible value, the fireplace will significantly lose heat output. With a smaller firebox size, smoke will occur.

Select the dimensions of the smoke openings taking into account the dimensions of the combustion area. The cross-sectional area of the chimney should be 10-15 times smaller than the area of the firebox.

The optimal diameter of round chimneys is 100-150 mm. The length of the smoke exhaust pipe can reach 500 cm or more.

Preparation of materials

Prepare the required quantity (determine in accordance with the planned dimensions and design of the fireplace). Also prepare fireclay bricks for arranging the firebox.

Additionally, prepare the following:

mixture for bricklaying;
12mm glass-magnesium sheet;
chimney;
oven tape for mounting accessories;
metal corners;
chimney view.

Before starting work, cover everything that needs to be protected from contamination with polyethylene.

Prices for fireproof mortar for stoves and fireplaces

Fireproof mortar for stoves and fireplaces

Fireplace base

The foundation design will include metal corners. They will additionally increase the strength of the site and protect it from destruction during seasonal changes in the soil.

Dig a hole for arranging the foundation in accordance with the design dimensions.

Fill the bottom of the hole with a sand and gravel mixture. Seal the pillow and place metal corners on it. Double the corner so that the most reliable and durable base is created during the laying process. It is recommended to weld the corners so that they do not move in the future.

In this case, the corners must be mounted in such a way that the masonry elements installed later are located parallel to the interior partition connected to the fireplace (if this design option is chosen).

Place bricks in the corners, fill the entire structure with cement mortar and carefully level it using a plaster trowel.

The thickness of the solution should approximately correspond to the thickness of sour cream. With this consistency, the solution will be able to penetrate into all the cracks of the masonry without leaving the seams.

Ensure the base is horizontal. To eliminate surface unevenness, use the same cement mortar. Leave the structure to dry for a couple of days.

Masonry

Cover the dried foundation with a double layer of roofing felt. This will provide the necessary protection for the base.

Prepare mortar for brickwork. Traditionally, fireplaces are laid using a solution based on pre-soaked

Laying the first row is best done using mortar with a small addition of cement (approximately 10-20% of the total mass of the mixture).

Calibrate the bricks in advance, selecting the most suitable sized products for laying each row.

Before starting laying, immerse the bricks in water for a while. This will allow the products to become saturated with moisture. Otherwise, the bricks will take water from the clay mortar, which will lead to a significant deterioration in the quality of the masonry.

Lay out the first row of bricks edgewise. Check that the row is laid out correctly with a square and level. Make sure the opposite sides and diagonals of the base are the same length.

The masonry is carried out in accordance with the order. The following will be a procedure that is relevant for most existing types of fireplaces. For the rest, rely on the drawings you have.

First step

Lay out three continuous rows of the base.

Second step

Lay out 4-5 rows with an ash pan.

Third step

Lay out 6-7 rows with arranging the bottom and brick frame.

Fourth step

Continue laying. Up to the 13th row inclusive, form the walls of the firebox of the heating unit.

Fifth step

Lay out rows 14-19 with a smoke collector.

Sixth step

Lay out 20-25 rows of the fireplace with a chimney arrangement.

Arrange the base and continuous rows of masonry using a trowel or trowel. and the fuel chamber are laid out manually, because At these stages it is very important to control the quality of the solution used.

Apply fireplace mortar to the middle of the bricks. The edges of the elements must remain free.

When laying out each row, adhere to the chosen order. For greater convenience, you can number the products.

Pay special attention to the quality of the masonry of the fuel compartment and smoke exhaust ducts - these elements must be laid out as evenly as possible and as airtight as possible.

Remove excess masonry mortar immediately.

Find out how to do it with step-by-step instructions from our new article.

To form a beautiful curved fireplace arch, perform a gradual overlap of masonry elements. It is important that the overlap size does not exceed 50-60 mm in each row.

The construction of curved lintels is carried out using temporary formwork - circles. To fix such formwork, use supports under the fireplace vault being installed.

Start laying from the brick installed in the center, and then carry out symmetrical laying in both directions.

Periodically check the verticality of the smoke exhaust pipe. Even the slightest deviations from the vertical can lead to smoke in the room.

To lay the chimney, use a mortar with added cement, similar to the mixture used when laying out the fireplace base.

The smoke exhaust pipe must be covered with a layer of fire-resistant insulation to increase fire safety. Insulation is installed where pipes pass through the structure of the house (floors, roofing, etc.). The most commonly used insulation materials are asbestos based.

Prices for refractory bricks

Fire brick

To give the fireplace a more attractive appearance, finish it. The most commonly used finishing methods are:

Choose a specific finishing option at your discretion. If you like the fireplace without finishing cladding, unstitch the masonry seams using a special tool and thoroughly clean the surface of the structure from excess mortar.

Important: only fire-resistant paints and varnishes can be used to paint the fireplace.

Otherwise, the external one depends solely on your imagination and personal preferences.

Good luck!

Video - How to build a fireplace with your own hands

Home improvement involves performing a wide variety of work related to finishing, laying communications, arranging various systems, etc. There are a number of universal solutions that allow you to simultaneously perform several important tasks. And one of them is laying out a fireplace with your own hands. A well-built unit will not only be a source of heat, but also an excellent addition to the interior.

To install a fireplace yourself, you need to use the highest quality materials possible. They must be fireproof, so the process of selecting the necessary materials should be approached with the utmost responsibility.

Fireplaces are made of metal and brick. Metal structures are the easiest to install - you just need to buy the model you like and install it on a prepared base.

However, despite their ease of installation, metal fireplaces cause many inconveniences during further operation, related, first of all, to the safety of the residents of the house. The metal becomes very hot and can cause serious burns and other damage. Therefore, it is strongly recommended to refrain from installing such equipment where small children live.

With intensive use, metal products burn out quite quickly. On average, after a few years such a fireplace becomes unusable. Therefore, it is better to approach the issue thoroughly and lay out a full-fledged brick fireplace.

This design will require the construction of an individual foundation. The laying is carried out using a special solution, which will be discussed below.

Special attention should be paid to the choice of the main building material. Only fireclay bricks are suitable for laying a fireplace. The manufacturing technology of this material is such that, as a result of numerous treatments, its properties become similar to those of natural stone. The brick becomes as resistant to high temperatures and temperature changes as possible.

Before use, the product must be left in water for about three days. This will allow you to remove excess air from the bricks and obtain masonry of the highest possible quality.

What to prepare mortar for laying a fireplace from?

The first stage is choosing clay. To prepare the solution, a small amount of elementary and widely available components is used. The traditional option is an aqueous solution of clay. Special attention must be paid to the choice of the main component of the solution. In nature, this material can have different characteristics, according to which it is divided into normal, lean and fat.

Only normal clay is suitable for preparing masonry mortar. In other cases, it will be necessary to include additional elements, which will not have the best effect on the final financial costs.

The second stage is preparing the clay for work. Take normal clay and soak it for 2-3 days in a large container of water.

The third stage is preparing the mortar for masonry. Usually the solution is mixed using a shovel. If desired, this can be done with your feet, after putting on high rubber shoes. Carefully monitor the condition of the solution and promptly remove various debris when it appears. If you can’t find normal clay, you can take skinny clay and add fatty clay to it. You cannot use fatty and lean clay separately.

The fourth stage is checking the readiness of the clay. Before use, the resulting mass must be tested for strength. To do this, make a couple of small balls. Place one of them in some dry, dark place to dry. Flatten the second one into a flat cake and place it next to the first product. After a couple of days, evaluate the condition of the cake and the ball. If the material is covered with cracks, the solution is too greasy and you need to add some kind of binder, for example, cement. If there are no cracks, the solution is normal or thin.

Skinny clay “in its pure form” is not suitable for use. To deal with this point, try to break a clay ball on a table, floor or other similar surface. If the ball breaks, the solution is thin and you need to add some more fatty clay to it. If the ball does not break, you can begin laying.

A step-by-step guide to laying your own fireplace

The first stage is choosing a place to build a fireplace. First of all, remember that the fireplace should not be placed in close proximity to flammable products. Examine the ceiling and roof of your home. To install a fireplace, you need to choose a place so that the chimney does not pass through beams and crosscuts.

The second stage is preparation for laying the foundation. The fireplace is built on an individual foundation. First, a recess is prepared for pouring concrete. Add 100-150 mm on each side to the dimensions of the future fireplace, and you will get the optimal dimensions of the foundation.

The depth of the hole is selected individually. Traditionally it is 300-500 mm. The specific value is determined in accordance with the characteristics of the soil composition. For example, if there is a lot of sand in the soil, a 30-centimeter depression will be sufficient. Otherwise you'll have to dig a little deeper. First, the bottom of the pit is covered with a small layer of sand, which must be compacted. Afterwards a layer of crushed stone is poured.

The third stage is preparing and pouring the solution. For such a foundation, a simple cement mortar is suitable. Prepare it from part of the cement, the same volume of water and 3 times more sand. Mix the ingredients thoroughly until a homogeneous mass is obtained and pour it into the prepared pit. Level the solution using a trowel. Wait until the cement hardens, lay waterproofing material on top of the pouring (usually roofing felt is used, laid in 2 layers) and begin laying.

The fourth stage is the installation of formwork. At this stage you need to install the formwork. Prepare wooden boards, beams, plates and wedges. Wedges are placed under wooden blocks.

The fifth stage is laying out the supporting parts. Mark the rows along the formwork, taking into account the thickness of future seams. The fireplace will consist of an odd number of rows of masonry. The central brick is usually called the castle brick. It is installed vertically, at a central point.

The sixth stage is the creation of a wedge lintel. This element should be laid on both sides in the direction of the castle brick. Laying is done so that in the central part the lintel can be easily wedged with the center brick. Use a cord to check the seams are correct. Secure it at the junction of the lintel with the side partitions.

The side walls must have sufficient thickness and width, otherwise they simply will not cope with the incoming loads. Where the wedge lintel meets the side partitions, you need to make ties. To create them, steel strips are used. The ends of such strips should be bent upward.

The seventh stage is the installation of arched and beam type lintels. The structure of these elements differs from the design of the wedge lintel. The surfaces of the jumpers in question must form arcs with a certain radius. In the case of beam-type jumpers, their radius should exceed half the distance between the side posts. The jumpers in question are laid out evenly on both sides. Pay attention to the seams - they should be wedge-shaped.

It is important to maintain the correct width of the seams: at the top it should be about 2.4 cm, at the bottom – 0.3 cm.

Use a cord to check the accuracy of the brickwork and joints. Wedge the lintel with the locking brick.

The lintels must be allowed to settle in the formwork. The exposure time will vary. The specific period depends on the ambient temperature and the quality of the solution. For example, in the summer this may take 1-3 weeks. The colder it is, the longer it will take.

The eighth stage is laying out the firebox. At this stage, special attention must be paid to the rear wall of the firebox. If it is planned to install screens in the wall, the laying is done according to the pattern. An edged board is suitable for making patterns.

Select the appropriate shape and dimensions of the template in accordance with the existing drawing of the unit being built.

Be extremely careful when laying a fireplace. Refer to the available drawings. Errors when laying even a single brick will inevitably lead to disruption of the masonry of further rows, and it will not be possible to correct the defects in all situations. Therefore, it is better to immediately do everything as required by the technology.

Finishing of the unit

Think about finishing issues in advance. If desired, the fireplace can not be finished at all, but it is better to decorate the structure with tiles or at least treat it with plaster.

The design made using decorative bricks looks beautiful. However, installing such cladding requires certain skills and experience, so beginners are not recommended to undertake it. Even the slightest mistakes can lead to damage to the decor and simply a waste of money.

Tiles finishing is very beautiful and easy to do. It is not recommended to use tiles for facing the fireplace. Temperature changes will gradually destroy even the highest quality glue. It is recommended to pay attention to this option only if you are ready to periodically carry out repairs and restoration of the finish.

The chimney traditionally has a size of 1.5 x 1 brick. To improve and stabilize traction, it is recommended to use additional devices. For example, with the help of weather vanes and deflectors, the chimney can be protected from precipitation and various types of debris.

Thus, laying out the fireplace yourself is possible. Spend time studying the theoretical part, be patient and follow the recommendations received at each stage. The reward for your efforts will be a reliable, beautiful, efficient and durable fireplace, in front of which you can gather with family, friends or relax alone.

Good luck!

Video - How to lay out a fireplace with your own hands

If a country house is under construction or has already been built, then you can always find a place for a fireplace in it, especially since many people dream about it. Excessively massive fireplaces are not easy to place in a small room, and in addition, they have a complex internal structure that is inaccessible to a beginner in the stove business for independent construction. Another thing is the corner fireplace. We can say that this option is suitable even for the smallest room, since it occupies a “modest” part of the usable space, but is able to fully bring maximum comfort to the house and create a special style.

In addition, a do-it-yourself corner fireplace with step-by-step instructions for constructing it, which is necessary for self-construction, can be attempted by even a novice stove maker.

Advantages of a corner fireplace

There are corner fireplaces of various models. Some of them are made only of brick, while others are combined of metal elements and brickwork. Which one is better to choose will depend on the preferences of the homeowner and his financial capabilities. It should be noted that a combined fireplace will cost slightly less than one in the construction of which only brick was used.

It is worth evaluating the advantages of a corner fireplace in order to understand how profitable it is to install it in certain conditions:

The first is saving money on material for construction, since much less of it will be required than for the construction of a wall-mounted or island fireplace.
The second is the rational use of space, since the compactness of the structure allows it to be installed both in a small country house and in a cottage with a fairly large area.
Third, this is a relatively simple ordering scheme that even a novice master can understand. Even if the external masonry is not entirely successful, it can be covered with a finishing material, such as decorative plaster, ceramic or a finished stone portal. Moreover, some options for applying plaster can be made in the form of complex exclusive relief patterns.
And finally, the aesthetic and functional value of the building. A fireplace will make the room cozy, which will allow you to spend rainy days and evenings near it in comfort.

Fireplace project

Preliminary sketches

In order for the process of erecting a corner fireplace in the room to be successful, it is necessary first of all to make a detailed project and sketch of the future heating structure. It is better, of course, to lay the foundation of the fireplace together with the foundation of the house, but you need to remember that they should not be connected to each other.

You can fit a corner fireplace into one of the rooms of an already built house, but you will have to make careful calculations so that its chimney does not rest against the attic floor beam or rafter leg.

Design work is carried out as follows:

First you need to determine the room and the corner in it where the fireplace will be installed.
Next, on a sheet of paper you need to make a small drawing-sketch, which will allow you to visually determine how the chosen option will be “in place” in this particular room and in its design style.
After this, taking into account the design diagram of the attic floor and rafter system, a fireplace design drawing is created.

Corner fireplaces may differ from each other in some design elements. For example, in its lower part you can install a chamber for drying firewood, or a blower chamber equipped with a door or a metal drawer. Brick cabinets are sometimes placed on both sides of the fireplace insert, used as decorative shelves for installing fireplace accessories or floor vases.

The fireplace insert can have different shapes. It can be rectangular, square, trapezoidal or semicircular. Each developed model has its own version of the flask niche. When choosing a fireplace for yourself, you need to immediately pay attention to this element, since it will be difficult to redo it later.

In addition, a corner fireplace can have a firebox made of fireclay bricks or a finished metal firebox built into the structure. Such metal chambers are equipped with a door with heat-resistant glass, which allows you to enjoy the view of the fire and at the same time, does not let combustion products into the room. For those who love open fire and the aroma of burning wood, the door will not be an obstacle, since it can always be opened.

All the desired elements must be immediately included in the design and sketch of the fireplace, and then try to select an order based on it, developed by professional stove makers.

Calculations of linear parameters of the fireplace

In order for the fireplace to function normally and meet all safety criteria, you need to know what should be taken into account when making calculations:

For high-quality and safe operation of any heating device, it is necessary to create optimal draft - in order to eliminate smoke in the premises and, at the same time, to retain heat for the longest possible time. In addition, normal draft will help to quickly light the fireplace and maintain acceptable fire intensity. The overall design of the fireplace should combine:

High heat transfer, fast and uniform heating of the structure.
The fireplace should not cool down the house when not in use, that is, it is necessary to create conditions for blocking the chimney pipe.
Aesthetic appearance and compactness.

It is these factors that are taken into account and calculated during the preparation of the project. They largely depend on the area that the fireplace must heat.

Fireplace insert

Choosing the right firebox size directly affects heating the room and creating a comfortable atmosphere.

The size of this element is calculated based on the area of the room. To simplify this, the area is divided by 50 - the resulting value will show the approximate size of the firebox window. So, for a small room, a fireplace with a firebox opening with an area of 0.32 to 0.54 m² is sufficient.

You can use a table that will help you easily calculate this important parameter for good fireplace functionality:

Dimensions of various fireplace elements, mm	Room area, m².
	12	15	20	25	30	40
Portal width	400	500	600	700	800	900
Portal height	420	490	560	630	700	770
Firebox depth	300	320	350	380	400	420
Rear wall height	At least 360
Firebox rear wall width	300	400	450	500	600	700
Smoke collector height	570	600	630	660	700	800
Cross-section of a chimney with rough internal walls	140×270	140×270	270×270	270×270	270×400	270×400
Section of a chimney with smooth internal walls	140×140	140×270	140×270	270×270	270×270	270×270

The best proportions for a fireplace window are considered to be 3:2, and the height should be less than the width of the fireplace.

An equally important parameter is the depth of the combustion chamber - the efficiency of the fireplace will directly depend on it. According to standards, it should be equal to ⅔ or ½ of the height of the firebox.

If these parameters are thoughtlessly increased for the sake of economy or appearance, then heat transfer is significantly reduced, since most of the heat will go directly into the pipe. All that remains is to admire the intense flame from the fire, barely having time to add wood to the fireplace.

And when the depth of the combustion chamber is reduced in relation to its height, there is a risk of regularly getting smoke in the room - this means soot and soot on the walls, ceiling, furniture and accessories. And the operation of such a fireplace will be extremely unsafe

Smokey for fireplace

To prevent smoke from occurring, in addition to the correct calculation of the firebox, the parameters of the chimney will be no less important, since they also affect the creation of normal draft and the burning activity of wood.

It is necessary to correctly determine the diameter of the channel or the size of the rectangular cross-section of the chimney opening and the height of the pipe. According to safety standards, the diameter of the chimney cannot be less than 150 ÷ 170 mm, or the rectangular cross-section must be 1/10 of the size of the combustion chamber.

The chimney pipe usually rises no lower than five meters, but sometimes a greater height is required. This parameter will depend on the area of the roof in which it will be located, and on the height of the roof ridge.

Fireplace materials and necessary tools

Having drawn up a project and made calculations, they proceed to the selection and purchase of building materials. You need to immediately decide whether the fireplace will be finished with decorative material, or whether its masonry is planned to be done “for jointing”. This determines which brick can be chosen for laying.

Since the work on building a fireplace begins with the foundation, and only after it is ready they move on to laying out the firebox and chimney, then it’s worth starting to list the necessary materials from there.

Foundation

Since the planned structure is not as massive as a full-fledged furnace, there is no need to build a strong foundation. If a slab, well-buried foundation was built for the house, then it will be quite suitable as a base for a light corner fireplace. If the foundation is strip, then additional work will have to be done on the base for the fireplace.

Waterproofing is necessary for any structure - it will reliably protect it from capillary penetration of moisture from the soil and will allow it to stand without damage for a long time. Therefore, it is necessary to purchase a waterproofing material - it can be roofing felt or thick polyethylene film.
Crushed stone and sand will be required to construct foundation cushions and make concrete mortar.
To make formwork you will need a board. There are two methods of making formwork: temporary and stationary. When choosing a temporary option, after the foundation has gained strength and is ready for further work, the formwork is dismantled, and a sand-gravel mixture is poured into the gaps left between the soil and concrete.

In addition to formwork boards, metal sheets are often used, especially in cases where the foundation has a semicircular or other complex shape.

Reinforcement in the form of metal rods with a diameter of 8 ÷ 10 mm. The reinforcing bars are tied together with steel wire, forming a mesh.

Another option is to purchase a ready-made reinforcing steel mesh with cells of 50 - 80 mm.

Fireplace walls and chimney

To build the fireplace and chimney itself, you will need the following materials:

To lay the walls, firebox and chimney, it will be necessary to purchase two types of solid bricks - red and fireclay.

Prices for fireclay bricks

fireclay brick

— If the fireplace will be decorated with jointing, then it is necessary to choose high-quality ceramic bricks. In the case where the external decoration of the fireplace is intended, working (ordinary) brick is also suitable.

— Fireclay fire-resistant brick is used for laying the combustion chamber and the beginning of the chimney.

Prices for ceramic bricks

ceramic brick

Bricks are calculated individually, and this quantity depends on the order and model chosen. Even a small corner fireplace may require from 350 to 650 pieces. When purchasing a brick, you need to add 10 ÷ 12% reserve to the total quantity - it will be useful in case of defective copies or unexpected damage as a result of adjustment in accordance with the order.

Traditional materials such as clay, sand and cement can be used for masonry mortar. However, it should be noted that for kiln work it is very difficult to select the desired fat content of clay and optimal proportions, and if there is no experience in this process, then it is better to use ready-made compositions that require only proper preparation, the technology of which is indicated on the packaging. Such masonry compositions can be purchased in specialized stores in the form of dry building mixtures.

You need to know one more subtlety, recommended by experienced stove makers - the laying of the combustion chamber, carried out with fireclay bricks, should be done on a rubbed mortar made from clay with minimal additions of cement and sand to it.

Prices for heat-resistant mixtures for laying fireplaces and stoves

masonry heat-resistant mixture

Steel corners measuring 40×40 or 50×50. The length of these elements is selected depending on the width of the combustion chamber, drying chamber or ash chamber. 300 ÷ 400 mm is added to the dimensions of these chambers, and the resulting value is multiplied by two, since the corners will be laid on both sides of the chambers.
If you choose a fireplace model with a semicircular firebox overlap, you will have to prepare a template from a board, plywood or metal sheet. Loose bricks or timber beams can be used for supports.

The chimney can be made of brick or made of metal. If the latter option is chosen, then a pipe must be purchased at least five meters long, but to find out more precisely how much it will be needed, you need to take measurements at the installation site of the fireplace, from its top to the height of the ridge.
For a brick chimney, you will need a fireplace damper with a long handle.

For a metal pipe, a built-in adjusting element - gate will be required.

Stainless steel chimney element - damper

If you decide to build a ready-made cast iron or steel firebox into the fireplace, then this is what you buy instead of fireclay bricks. It must be said that installing a finished firebox into a fireplace will greatly simplify and speed up the work, since it will be lined with bricks of a ready-made shape.
Since the fireplace will be installed in a corner, the walls forming the corner must be insulated from exposure to high temperatures. For this, heat-resistant plasterboard or asbestos sheets are purchased.

To clad a building, you can use different materials - it could be facing tiles imitating stone, ceramic tiles, decorative plaster, or even a ready-made portal made of natural or artificial stone.

You may be interested in information on how to knead correctly.

Required Tools

To lay any fireplace, you need to prepare the following tools:

1 – a hammer-pick will be needed to split bricks.

2 – trowels of different configurations, small in size for applying and leveling the mortar.

3 – a large trowel (trowel) for mixing and applying the solution to large surfaces.

4 – the construction level requires control over the horizontal and verticality of the masonry and seams.

5 – plumb line for checking the verticals of the walls.

6 – laser level (if possible) to simplify the process of marking the floor and walls.

7 – cord along which each of the rows of masonry will be output.

8 - mallet (wooden or rubber mallet) for leveling bricks in a row.

9 – the rule is used to level the poured foundation and to check the evenness of the fireplace walls.

10 – containers for mixing the solution and for water.

11 - jointing to give the seams a neat shape.

Preparatory work

Pouring the foundation

If you have to start work from the foundation, then it is carried out according to one scheme, in the following order:

Before erecting a foundation for it, it is necessary to make a recess of 400 ÷ 500 mm in the soil under the floor. It should have the shape of the base of the fireplace, but 100 ÷ 120 mm wider.
Next, sand is poured into the bottom of the pit - it will become the first layer of waterproofing for the foundation. The thickness of this layer when compacted should be 100 ÷ 120 mm. In order to achieve maximum density of the sand layer, it is moistened with water during the compaction process.
A backfill of crushed stone is made on top of the sand cushion, which is also compacted. Its layer should be the same thickness as the sand layer.

Next, reinforcement elements are laid on the crushed stone.
Then the walls of the house are fenced off from the future foundation with asbestos sheets, which will protect them from high temperatures and help retain heat inside the room.
The next stage is the installation of formwork. If the base is semicircular, as shown in the photo, then the most optimal An option would be to fence it with a metal sheet, which is supported by stacks of bricks.

For a foundation with straight lines at the base (rectangle, trapezoid, etc.), the formwork is most often made from boards that are knocked together. If gaps have formed between the boards, then the inside of the formwork is covered with dense polyethylene film. It will not only prevent the solution from leaking out, but will also retain moisture in the solution for a longer period, which will allow it to set and gain strength evenly.

When the formwork is ready, you can mix the solution. It is advisable to fill the entire volume of the foundation in one go, but its first layer can be made coarser, consisting of a sand-gravel mixture and 4:1 cement. The thickness of this layer can be 120 ÷ 150 mm.

On top of it, a thinner layer of cement and sand mortar is immediately poured in a ratio of 1:3.

The surface of the foundation is leveled using a rule, covered with plastic film and left to mature. This method of caring for freshly poured concrete is especially appropriate if the foundation is being built in the summer at high outside temperatures, when moisture evaporates at an accelerated rate.

Roofing material is laid on top of the finished, brand-strength foundation in two or three layers.

Preparing for brickwork

Each master stove maker has his own secrets for laying heating structures, which were acquired over a long period of work. It would be nice to know about several of them before starting to build a fireplace.

Laying the fireplace begins only three to four weeks after pouring the foundation, since the concrete must be well strengthened.
If the masonry will be carried out using clay mortar, then before starting work the brick is soaked in water for one and a half to two days. A brick soaked in water will no longer absorb moisture from the mortar too intensively, and this will allow drying to proceed evenly, which will prevent cracking at the seams.

In order to avoid serious errors in the order and carefully understand the configuration of each row, even experienced stove builders, when starting the construction of a new stove model, lay the entire structure “dry”, without using mortar. If you follow this procedure, the main laying of the mortar will be much easier and faster.

In addition, when laying out the fireplace “dry”, you can immediately adjust the bricks to the required size and number them, indicating the number of the row and the location of this element in it. It should be taken into account that the seams between the rows and bricks should have a width of 8 ÷ 10 mm.

Well, there is one more everyday point that must be taken into account - when carrying out such work, dust and dirt will inevitably form in the room. To prevent things from being damaged, it is recommended to take them out of the room or cover them with thick plastic film, with sheets overlapping by 500 mm.

These subtleties will greatly facilitate and simplify both work and cleaning after completion of the masonry. Having studied all the nuances of the preparatory work, you can proceed directly to the masonry.

You might be interested in information about what it is

Laying a corner fireplace

To be able to choose the appropriate option, you can consider several ordering schemes - simple and more complex. And everyone will decide for themselves which model will be easier for them to complete.

First option

This version of the fireplace is quite complex due to the unusual shape of the combustion chamber, but if desired, it can also be brought to life, based on the description of the features of each row of the diagram.

Row 1 - you need to work on it extremely carefully and carefully, since the quality of all further masonry will depend on it.
Row 2 – a niche is formed in which a box for collecting ash will be installed.
Row 3 – laid out according to the pattern. A hole is left in the middle part of the surface for discharging ash from the combustion chamber into the ash pan.
4th row - at this stage the bottom of the firebox is laid out; fireclay refractory bricks are used for this. The hole left in the previous row is covered with a cast iron grate (grid).
Row 5 - on this row, the rear and side walls of the firebox begin to be built, which will form the portal. The walls are laid in two rows of thickness - the first is located near the wall and is made of red brick, the second, inside the firebox, is laid from fireclay, and the brick is mounted flat. The front part of the firebox floor and the side walls of the portal are also built from red brick.

6 ÷ 9 row– the laying is carried out according to the diagram and fully corresponds to the description of the fifth row. The walls of the combustion chamber are being erected.
Row 10 – this row produces very important work - construction fireplace portal. It should be noted that the shape of the portal can be changed to arched or rectangular if desired. However, if the portal will have an arched or arch-like shape, it is recommended to make a template for this. In this case, it can be cut from ordinary plywood, 10 mm thick. For stability, the template must have a certain thickness of 100 ÷ 150 mm, so two identical parts are cut out of plywood, between which a wide spacer is made.

The template is leveled and supported on both sides by stacks of bricks. A brick is laid along the end side of the template, forming a figured portal.

11 - 19 rows

11 ÷ 12 rows - these two rows form the inner walls of the combustion chamber and the outer walls of the fireplace. When laying out a portal in the form of an arch or the same shape as presented in this order, the bricks on the outer and inner walls are sawed off or chipped so that they fit tightly into the shape of the figured portal.
13 ÷ 14 rows – laid out on the back wall of the portal the so-called “mirror wall”. Its laying is carried out at an angle.

Sloping wall - “mirror”

The work can be carried out in two ways: the brick is installed at a slope, as shown in the photo, or it is laid flat with a shift towards the firebox by 40 ÷ 50 mm. In the latter case, after completing the removal of the wall, its surface will have to be leveled with a solution, since it must be smooth. It is this slope that sets the direction of the smoke rising from burning wood.

15 ÷ 18 rows – the rear inclined, side and front walls continue to form around the figured portal.
Row 19 - the internal bricks of the combustion chamber are shifted towards the firebox, forming a rectangular chimney opening.

18 - 20 rows

Row 20 is the penultimate row before completing the laying of the front wall around the portal. The upper part is laid out according to the scheme - the chimney opening continues to form.

21 row - completely covers the arched portal on the front wall and is displayed on even rows of masonry. The posterior inclined wall passes into so-called "tooth", which, in combination with the slope of the wall, regulates the passage of smoke to the chimney outlet.

22 ÷ 23 row– the “tooth” of fireclay brick continues to form. External masonry is done with red ceramic bricks.

Row 24 - the chimney hole is made of fireclay bricks, and the surface of the mantel is made of ceramic material.

Row 25 – the fireplace mantel is completely covered, leaving a hole for installing a chimney damper.
Row 26 - on this row, a valve is mounted on the hole for the chimney pipe. It is best to choose an option with a long handle or gate.
Row 27 - a ceramic or asbestos smoke pipe is installed above the valve and lined on all sides with bricks prepared to its shape. Or, an even brick is used, and the gaps between it and the pipe are filled with a solution consisting of sand and clay.
28 and subsequent rows - the installed round ceramic pipe is covered with brick.

It should be noted that this version of a corner fireplace will be difficult for a beginner to complete if there is no experience in designing stoves. Therefore, it is better to invite an experienced master as a partner who can help you avoid making mistakes.

Second option

This corner fireplace model is simpler to make, so it is quite accessible for beginners. Moreover, a detailed order is given, which is less complex compared to the design presented above. In the order diagram, the areas where red and fireclay bricks are used are highlighted in color, which makes it more understandable.

The foundation of this corner fireplace is arranged in the form of a square - this is convenient because the pre-furnace area will immediately be decorated with a heat-resistant surface, which is necessary for any heating structure.

On waterproofed The foundation is laid with a zero row of bricks - it will become the basis for laying subsequent rows, so work on it must be carried out with special care. It must be laid out in exact accordance with the drawing shown in the diagram.
Row 1 forms the bottom of the blower chamber and is laid out according to the presented diagram, so it will be necessary to adjust two bricks, the corners of which must be cut or carefully chipped at the desired angle.
Row 2 - at this stage a niche is formed for drying firewood or a blower chamber. They will differ only in the presence or absence of an ash pan and a grate.

If it is decided to place a drying niche under the firebox, then a metal corner measuring 40 × 40 or 50 × 50 mm is placed on its outer side. The length of this metal profile should be 600 mm.

Row 3 - the masonry proceeds according to the diagram, and a metal sheet measuring 600 × 400 mm and 4 ÷ 5 mm thick is mounted on top of the drying niche. If an ash pan is installed, a cast iron grate of the same size is installed instead of a metal sheet.
Row 4 – the masonry follows the pattern if a metal sheet has been laid on top of the niche. When installing an ash pan under the firebox, the laying is carried out according to the order plan, with the exception that the grate remains open.
Row 5 – the bottom part of the firebox is formed from fireclay bricks. It is highlighted in yellow on the diagram.

6 ÷ 8 rows - work is carried out in the same order: the walls of the combustion chamber are raised from red ceramic material, and the inner part of the firebox wall is formed from fire-resistant fireclay bricks, cut in half along the thickness.
Rows 7 ÷ 9 are also mounted according to the order.
10 ÷ 11 rows - on the back wall a slope begins to form towards the combustion chamber, which will become the lower part of the “tooth”. In order for the slope to be even, the bricks are sharpened and adjusted to each other.
Row 12 - at this stage, the combustion chamber is covered along the outer edge with steel corners 50x50 mm, 600 mm long.
13 ÷ 14 rows are laid out in order.
Row 15 – the construction of the back wall and the “tooth” is completed, above which the chimney begins.
16 ÷ 17 rows - the upper part of the portal is formed, turning into the mantelpiece. The brick is laid with a shift to the outside.
18 ÷ 20 rows - work proceeds according to the diagram. The upper opening of the fireplace narrows with each row, forming a chimney channel.
21 ÷ 24 rows – laying a chimney with additional side walls.
Rows 25 ÷ 29 – the chimney pipe is removed, while a smoke damper is installed on the 27th row.
Starting from row 30, the chimney pipe is installed - it can be made of brick, or a metal version can be installed. The pipe is routed through the attic floor and then through the roof.

Third option

This model of a corner fireplace was developed by master V. Bykov and has been used for construction for many years. During this time, it became popular due to the excellent efficiency of its design.

Having a length of sides located along the walls of only 770 mm, the fireplace is quite compact and can be installed even in a small room, which is an undeniable advantage of the model.

This fireplace is equipped with a ash chamber, so for the hole in the bottom of the firebox you will need a grate measuring 250 × 250 mm. Metal strips 5 mm thick and 40 mm wide will be required for laying out the ceiling part of the ash and combustion chambers.

Work on the construction of a fireplace begins with marking the first row of masonry, which is installed with special care.

Row 1 is laid out on waterproofed the surface of the foundation, according to the markings made in advance and in compliance with the pattern of the brickwork.
2 ÷ 3 rows are also laid strictly in accordance with the order pattern.
Row 4 – the base of the combustion chamber is formed, so the middle of it is laid with fireclay bricks.
Row 5 – the formation of the blower chamber begins. Metal inserts are installed on its side and back walls, which are securely fixed to the surface of the bricks.
Row 6 is laid with fireclay bricks, and a grate is installed on metal inserts. You can do without inserts, but then the sides for installing the grate will have to be provided in the masonry of the previous row, moving the bricks 10 ÷ 15 mm forward.
Row 7 – the walls of the combustion chamber are laid, as well as the sides of the portal.
8 ÷ 12 rows – the walls of the firebox and the side pillars of the fireplace portal are displayed.
Row 13 – the walls are bandaged with steel strips measuring 600 × 50 × 5 mm.
14 ÷ 15 rows - the rear wall is laid out at a slope towards the front of the firebox - this slope is called a “mirror”. This configuration helps direct the smoke into the chimney and, at the same time, it serves as a heat reflector towards the room. The inclined part of the rear wall of the firebox, laid out at an angle of 20 degrees, smoothly passes into the ceiling and chimney pipe.
16th row – a horizontal surface is displayed, so-called "tooth", essentially being the completion of the “mirror” masonry. The “tooth” is coated with a solution of sand and clay, since its surface must be perfectly smooth so that soot does not accumulate on it.
17 ÷ 19 rows - the inside of the front wall of the fireplace is laid out with hewn bricks, as this creates the shape of the chimney channel, which should evenly go around the “tooth”.
22 ÷ 22 rows - a part of the chimney duct called “higho” is installed. It must have a size of at least 140 × 270 mm. After laying the 22nd row, a smoke valve is installed on it using a clay solution.
Row 23 - the smoke exhaust channel continues to form, having a curved shape.
24 ÷ 25 rows - the curved direction is brought to the vertical position of the chimney. This hole must also have a cross-sectional size of 140 x 270 mm.
Having reached this section of the fireplace, a metal or ceramic pipe is installed, which is covered with a metal casing or brickwork.

In order to comply with fire safety requirements, it is necessary to carefully consider the passage of the pipe through the ceiling and rafter system, since these parts of the building are made of flammable materials. They must be insulated from the chimney with special boxes filled with non-combustible materials, such as expanded clay or sand.

After completing the construction of the fireplace, its masonry should dry thoroughly. In each individual case, this process takes different times, since it depends on the massiveness of the structure and the ambient temperature.

Drying takes place with the doors and valves open. An ordinary 200 W light bulb, which is suspended in the combustion chamber and left on until the masonry mortar is completely dry, will help speed up the process.

It is better to postpone surface finishing, if planned, for several months, during which the fireplace will be actively used.

So, building a corner fireplace with one smoke exhaust duct is much easier than building one of the complex models of stoves. Therefore, study

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