Subwoofer from a simple speaker. What is the best way to make a subwoofer box with your own hands?

Pavel Parygin
Kyiv

I probably won’t reveal much of a secret if I say that the small-sized speakers that are equipped in car audio systems do not provide good “bass” reproduction. One of the possible ways to solve this problem is also well known - to supplement the stereo system with an active subwoofer (an amplifier common to the right and left stereo channels with its own speaker, which reproduces low-frequency components of the sound range up to 200-250 Hz). But such an acoustic unit with an additional amplifier costs almost more than the entire stereo system taken together. That's why I decided to take on making it myself.

In order to make an active subwoofer in a car with my own hands, I purchased a 10-inch ALTRONIX E-RSW1039A low-frequency speaker (Fig. 1), two electronic kits for radio amateurs - an active signal processing unit for the subwoofer channel and a powerful single-channel low-frequency amplifier NM2034 ( in the form of a finished unit BM2034), 5 m of a special cable (ROCAR HIENDPCOFC SPEAKER CABLE) for connecting the speaker system, housing for assembling electronics (Z-4A), terminals, connectors, plugs.

Fig.1. ALTRONIX E-RSW1039A woofer

But first we had to start manufacturing a “closed box” type speaker system housing with a bass reflex (Fig. 2).

Fig.2. The design of the subwoofer housing is closed type with a bass reflex.

The useful volume of the body V, diameter d, length L of the bass reflex and other parameters were calculated on a computer using the JBL SpeakerShop program. The program performs all these calculations based on the characteristics of the speaker used (total quality factor Qts, resonant frequency Fs, equivalent volume Vas, etc.). In my case it turned out: d=60 mm, l=96 mm. For speakers of another type, these parameters will naturally be different, and appropriate changes must be made to the design of the acoustic unit.

The easiest way to make a housing for a car subwoofer at home is in the form of a round barrel, with a speaker built into one of the bottoms. In this case, both bottoms can be cut with a jigsaw from chipboard or multi-layer plywood (Fig. 3), and the cylindrical body is bent from a sheet of fiberboard.

Fig.3. Both round bottoms of the body were cut out of chipboard with a jigsaw.

At first I doubted the strength of such a design and assumed to glue two layers, but after completing the assembly, all my doubts were dispelled, since the body turned out to be very rigid and with fiberboard in one layer. It turned out to be quite simple to bend a blank from a sheet of fiberboard into a cylinder. To do this, it is enough to steam it from the outside, ironing it through a wet hoe.

After the fiberboard sheet was bent, I glued the round bottoms with PVA and additionally secured them with staples using a construction stapler. The finished body was covered with carpet on the outside (glued and secured with staples) (Fig. 4).

Fig.4. The finished building is covered with carpet.

Finally, I glued in the bass reflex, attached an insert with terminals for connection to the rear panel, soldered the wires and installed the speaker in place. Everything turned out very well (Fig. 5).

Fig.5. Active subwoofer assembled.

There were no problems with assembling the electronics. Both sets include fairly detailed and understandable instructions, according to which everything can be assembled and connected easily and simply (Fig. 6).

Fig.6. There were no problems with assembling electronics from MASTER KIT kits.

The only thing I did not follow the instructions was that instead of the 600 cm2 radiator recommended for the power amplifier chip, I installed a central processor radiator (Socket 370 connector) with a fan left over from upgrading the computer. The replacement turned out to be quite acceptable.

And finally, I specially moved the electronics into a separate housing, although it would be more rational to place it in the housing of the acoustic unit, separating a special compartment for this. But I really wanted to turn all these knobs myself and adjust the subwoofer directly inside the car while listening to real music. Therefore, I placed the assembled amplifier in the glove box (Fig. 7), and additionally installed a separate power switch on its front panel.

Fig.7. The electronic unit of the subwoofer is installed in the glove box, colloquially called the “glove box”.

A stereo system with a homemade car subwoofer sounds no worse than with a branded one, and costs several times less. But the main thing is that I made the subwoofer with my own hands!

Due to the fact that the BM2034 amplifier is no longer in production, Master Kit recommends using

An acoustic amplifier in a car allows you to reproduce low frequencies in high quality. To make a subwoofer for your car with your own hands, you need to choose a speaker, the type of housing, and also take into account all the nuances of assembling the device.

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What kind of speaker do you need?

When assembling a small acoustic subwoofer, the first thing you need to do is decide on the type of music speaker that serves as the base. It is necessary to take into account the dimensions of the device, as well as its technical properties.

Options

The main characteristic when choosing a speaker for a subwoofer is impedance. If the load on the device is about 1-2 ohms, this will lead to a decrease in sound quality. The best option would be to buy a speaker with a resistance in the region of 2-4 ohms. When purchasing a device, it is important to take into account one nuance - the power of the speaker will be higher than that of the amplifier. This is due to the fact that the speaker needs a certain margin of safety in the form of a difference in order to increase its service life.
If you already have a speaker and an amplifier, then you need to determine the difference in power between these devices. Then you need to make a mark on the volume control of the latter so as not to exceed it. We must remember that no speaker will maintain sound quality while operating at maximum volume. As a result of such operation, a frequency imbalance will occur.

The Flexing Studio channel talked about the selection of technical parameters for automotive acoustic equipment.

Dimensions

When making a subwoofer for a car with your own hands, you need to decide on the dimensions of the device:

Speakers with a diameter of 6 inches are usually used as an additional source of mid-bass. Their use will provide acoustics with an average-sounding subwoofer. It is optimal to use such speakers in the interiors of small cars.
8-inch devices are designed for use as additional front bass frequencies. In practice, this is not the best option for use in a main subwoofer.
Speakers of 10 inches or more are the optimal type. Such devices provide high-quality sound, filling the free space of the case with powerful vibration. If the speaker is installed in a “closed box”, this will allow it to produce high-quality sound pressure. Speakers of 12 inches or more are considered the best option; their installation is allowed in cases with a volume of up to 35 liters.
For the interior of a large car, it is recommended to use 15-inch devices. But in terms of implementation, this is difficult to do, since such a speaker will require a housing with a volume of about 90 liters.

Channel “D Style Audio. Autosound Studio" spoke about the choice of box sizes and gave recommendations for preventing errors in the manufacture of subs.

Selecting the type of subwoofer

Before installing a subwoofer for the speaker system in a car, you need to decide on its type. Today there are two types of devices - active and passive. The former are equipped with a built-in sound reinforcement system and also have the ability to adjust the frequency balance - an equalizer. Thanks to the use of an amplification device, such subwoofers do not require the power characteristics of a standard audio system. The speaker will independently drive the speakers to the desired value.

The main features include the high reliability of the device. This is achieved thanks to the factory layout, as well as engineering calculations inherent in subwoofer manufacturers. If your priority is to purchase a high-quality device that will last for years, then it is recommended to choose the active option.

Such subwoofers have disadvantages:

Speakers are sold ready-made. Difficulties arise when installing inside a vehicle. In practice, this is more typical for equipment made in a universal housing. Although it can be installed almost anywhere, the consumer will have to face inconvenience during installation.
Fans of high-quality sound may not appreciate the performance of the device. During production, manufacturers are trying to achieve the required dimensions that are suitable for most interiors of modern cars. But this is done at the expense of the high efficiency of the device. In practice, the materials from which the housing is made are not always of significant quality.

The passive type of device differs from the active one in that it does not have a built-in amplifier, and there is also no possibility of adjusting the frequency range. The package of such a subwoofer includes only the speaker and the housing in which it is installed. But the quality of the latter will not be at the highest level. It is recommended to purchase a more powerful speaker.

The lack of controls is seen as an advantage for playing tracks. Since there is no distortion that additional electronics can add, accurate results can be achieved by adjusting the sound characteristics.

The Sundown Russia channel compared in detail all the characteristics, advantages and disadvantages of open and closed acoustic devices.

Features of accommodation

The active type of devices is located almost anywhere. But the quality of the reproduced bass and music in general depends on the location of the passive subwoofer.

Several places for mounting speakers are allowed; they are described in the table.

Installation	Peculiarities
In the central part of the cabin, in front	This option is optimal if you want to connect the device to the front speakers. This installation location will ensure a high level of audio file playback. But in most modern cars there is no free space in front to install a subwoofer. This option is more relevant for SUVs or minibuses
In the luggage compartment, pointing the speaker itself forward	This installation method is popular among our compatriots. It is suitable for all types of cars
In the luggage compartment, but with the column facing backwards	A good option for cars made in a hatchback body. Thanks to this type of arrangement, the sound wave will not encounter obstacles in its path during playback. Installing the subwoofer rearward in the luggage compartment is not suitable for coupe or sedan vehicles. As a result, the sound is deformed, which is due to the specific design of the compartment
Under the seat, on the floor of the car	Not a bad option if you need to hide the device, but it is not in demand among car owners. The sub itself is located flush with the floor. And as a result of installation under the chair, sound waves encounter various obstacles on the way
On the rear shelf in the car	This placement option is optimal for all vehicles, regardless of the body. The main condition for this is that the shelf must be wide and durable. This way it can handle low-frequency bass without distorting the sound quality.

When choosing a place to install a subwoofer, you need to make an accurate calculation, this will allow you to understand how safe the low-frequency energy will be for surrounding devices. This is important, since resonance from the device box will cause damage not only to the installation site, but also to other body elements, for example, glass.

Box design

The channel “Sergei Tumanov’s Auto Audio School” spoke in detail about the design of boxes for car acoustic devices.

How to calculate hull displacement

The volume of the box is considered the main characteristic that determines the sound quality of the speakers in the subwoofer. To calculate this indicator, you can use two methods - using special software or manually. Winisd or JBL SpeakerShop software is used as utilities. Such software will allow you to determine the optimal dimensions of the device and the volume of the body for a specific vehicle model. The programs will also be able to calculate the dimensions of all components that are used for assembly; taking these data into account, the device is manufactured.

To calculate the volume of the body, you need to use the formula V=H*L*A, description of the main values:

H—height of the speaker box;
L—hull length;
A is the height of the column itself.

What to make a box from

The body of the device must comply with the dynamic laws of acoustics, this will ensure the most rich and clear sound. To produce different types of boxes you will need different materials. To ensure that the device provides dense sound and allows it to be insulated, you can use chipboard or multi-layer plywood. The main advantages of such materials include affordable cost, as well as ease of processing. Chipboard and plywood are durable and allow for high-quality insulation.

The thickness of the material for the production of the subwoofer box will be 3 cm.

How to make a sub with your own hands?

To assemble a homemade acoustic device, before manufacturing it is necessary to decide on the type of housing. There are several options for types of boxes.

Closed box

Drawing for creating a closed subwoofer enclosure

To make the box you will need chipboard, the thickness of the material will be 2.3 cm, and for the side walls you will need 2 cm boards.

Manufacturing process:

Surfaces are cut out of wood using a jigsaw in accordance with the dimensions calculated in advance according to the drawing.
The housing is being assembled. To fix the component elements, you can use superglue, but you should use self-tapping screws.
Holes with a diameter of 3 mm are made in the walls using a drill. To install the heads, it is recommended to use a 1 cm drill.
Then, using a compass, markings are made on the side wall to install the speaker. All holes are cut using a jigsaw.
When operating, the speaker emits unnecessary frequencies. To prevent this, it is recommended to shield the terminal itself using a small box. The joint is treated with glue. The device is fixed using self-tapping screws.
Using a plane, remove excess protrusions on the box.
Similarly, markings are made on the front part, a hole is made for installing the column. To protect the box from moisture, it is recommended to treat it with nitro varnish. This product is applied to the inside of the front panel.
To ensure higher practicality, the box is covered with carpet. This material is fixed using nitro varnish.
At the final stage, the speaker is installed on the acoustic terminal and attached to the box.

Bass reflex

To assemble the case you will need:

layer of soundproofing material;
self-tapping screws for working with wood, their diameter is 5 cm;
drill with a set of drills;
Phillips head screwdriver;
jigsaw;
liquid Nails;
glue sealant and PVA;
carpet;
plywood or chipboard 3 cm thick to make the most durable box and prevent the transmission of sound waves.

Graphic drawing for the manufacture of a subwoofer housing with a bass reflex device

The development procedure works like this:

The component parts of the body are being prepared. Front and rear, as well as side walls are cut out of plywood or chipboard. We need to make the top and bottom. To do this, calculations and parameters are used in accordance with a specific drawing.
Taking into account the size of the column, a hole is cut in the front part of the future box.
You also need to make a slot above it to install the bass reflex tube. Then the compartment is fixed to the hole for the device.
The side parts of the body are glued to each other. This is done when both holes are ready. Then the walls are fixed to each other using self-tapping screws. Each fastening element must be screwed to the end. You should not allow empty spaces between the walls, as this will distort the sound quality of the subwoofer.
A hole is cut on the back surface of the box through which the conductors are laid.
Before connecting the component parts of the housing, the column is installed.
Then the interior of the box is finished. Using glue, sealant or resin, all joints and cracks, if any, are treated to increase sealing. After the material has dried, the inside of the box is covered with noise-insulating fabric.
Upon completion of the body finishing work, similar actions are performed with its outer part. The assembled box must be covered with carpet or similar material. It is important that the fabric completely covers all joints, as well as the hole for the bass reflex. Epoxy resin or a stapler is used to fix the material.

4th order bandpass

When creating such a box, you can make mistakes in the calculations; its manufacture is best done by car owners who have experience in this. To design a housing model, it is recommended to use special software. The assembly procedure itself is performed in the same way as in the instructions described above.

Schematic design of the subwoofer bandpass housing

But you need to take into account the nuances:

The partition into which the column is mounted is made of two sheets of plywood or chipboard.
The inside of the case is treated with noise-insulating material. Batting may be used.
The glue itself must be applied in strokes around the entire perimeter. There is no need to use it a lot, as this will lead to the appearance of static characteristics.
Additional fixation of the device using a construction stapler is allowed.
Soldering of conductors is carried out to the column and to the terminal contacts.
The back of the box must be sealed as much as possible. This can be achieved by using tape and liquid nails, the first is glued on top of the seam.
To make the bell of the bass reflex device, the edges are heated. Banks are used for this.
A jigsaw is used to create a hole in the lid. It requires installing a carpet with a bass reflex device.
Processing of joints is carried out using liquid nails.
The back of the cover with the bass reflex device is treated with sound insulation. When the fixation of the body elements is completed, it needs to be covered with carpet.

BP6

The manufacturing option for the BP6 subwoofer is complex in terms of assembly and calculations.

Graphic drawing for creating the body of a BP6 subwoofer

It allows you to produce high-quality sound, like a fourth-order badpass, but the frequency range is higher. The efficiency of the device, as well as power parameters, are calculated using software. All characteristics are selected in accordance with the preferences of the car owner. In general, the design of the box is more complex compared to a closed box and a bass reflex.

Device assembly features:

To create stronger connections, it is recommended to make them from wooden blocks, which are fixed with self-tapping screws.
All components of the box must be cut to size. For production, plywood or chipboard is used.
The assembly procedure is performed using a similar technology. But instead of conventional sound insulation, cotton wool is used.

Subwoofer "Stealth"

To make a case of this type you will need:

the column itself;
speaker grille;
special socket for connecting the device;
a set of cables of the required length;
the material from which the body is made is plywood or chipboard, its thickness will be 2 cm;
fiberboard board;
epoxy resin or glue;
fiberglass sheet;
brush;
masking tape;
polyethylene;
self-tapping screws for working with wood, 4 cm long;
jigsaw;
drill with a set of drills.

Before making the box, you need to decide on the installation location of the subwoofer. It is necessary to remove all tools and things from the luggage compartment in order to completely empty it. Then the casing in the compartment is dismantled. It must be carefully removed from the place where the subwoofer is installed.

A simple diagram with dimensions for creating a Stealth-type acoustic device

The manufacturing procedure is performed as follows:

In the place where the music device is mounted, you need to lay plastic film. Its presence will protect the luggage compartment from glue and dirt.
The subwoofer mounting location is glued using masking tape; for this it is recommended to use at least two layers.
Then pieces of fiberglass are laid on top. The material is treated in advance with epoxy resin or glue. It is recommended to glue the fiberglass fabric overlapping. When performing a task, it is important to ensure that the joints are not visible. No gaps are allowed.
Fiberglass is glued in several layers, at least five. It is necessary to ensure that the total thickness of the material is 1 cm.
The box itself for the acoustic device hardens for about fifteen hours. When the body is completely dry, work continues.
The lower part of the box is cut out of chipboard or plywood, which is used as the bottom. It is fixed on the body of the future device. For fastening, it is allowed to use sealant or epoxy glue to prevent the appearance of leaky seams on the body.
There will be excess parts on the device box; they must be removed using a utility knife. This will remove any remaining glue and fiberglass.
The side walls of the device, as well as its cover, are cut from chipboard. It is recommended to make the rounded part of the box from plywood. The material must be wetted with water in advance, then formed and securely fixed.
All components made from chipboard are properly glued with epoxy resin or glue and sealant. Then they need to be fastened to each other; self-tapping screws are used for this.
A hole is made in the front of the box where the speaker is mounted.
Using a drill, you need to drill a small slot in the back or on the side wall. Cables from the subwoofer are laid through it for connection.
A column is mounted in the device box. Its fixation is carried out using self-tapping screws or glue, you can use both options. After assembly, all components of the subwoofer are installed.
At the last stage, the acoustic device is painted or covered with carpet. If you use varnish or paint, then all surfaces must be sanded in advance. It’s faster and easier to cover the box with carpet. To fix the material, glue or a stapler with staples is used.

Installation and connection

When connecting the device to the speaker system, you need to prepare:

a set of cables - three conductors go in one winding to connect power to the car radio, as well as to the battery;
safety element;
capacitor device;
electrical tape or heat pipes;
wire cutters;
plastic clamps;
set of wrenches.

Subwoofer Cable Connection Map

To connect the conductors, the following diagram is used:

The cable from the sub goes to the amplifier. If this device is located in the cabin, then it is necessary to lay the conductors through the technological holes in the luggage compartment. To hide the cables, they are laid under a plastic lining. To do this, the decorative trims are removed using a screwdriver and the screws are unscrewed. Do not lay wires in the area of moving parts of the body to prevent damage to them.
Then the cable from the amplifier goes to the radio. The connection output is located on the back of the audio device. The car radio will have to be dismantled, as well as the center console.
The positive power conductor must be protected from damage when routing. To do this, it is recommended to wrap it in corrugation.
A safety device is installed on the positive conductor. It is important to place it closer to the battery.

Security measures

Nuances that must be taken into account when installing and connecting the device:

The use of non-working tools or malfunctioning devices is not allowed.
When working with piercing and cutting objects, you must follow safety precautions. The wires on power tools must not be damaged. The plug from a drill or jigsaw fits into the socket easily and smoothly.
Before performing the task, you need to make sure that the car’s battery is disconnected. This will prevent damage to the speaker system.

Photo gallery

Photos of homemade subs.

Video “An example of making a subwoofer from old speakers”

The “AVTO CLASS” channel provided an example of independently creating an acoustic device and rewinding speakers produced during the USSR.

SUBWOOFER WITH YOUR HANDS

Sooner or later, many people realize that there is no such thing as too much bass, and no matter how much they look for more powerful speakers, they still want more bass. There is only one way out - use a subwoofer. You can buy a good subwoofer, but not everyone has the extra $200 - $300. So we will make a subwoofer with our own hands!

First, let's solve the power supply issue: a good transformer, 150 watts, has the required bipolar voltage and there is no current lying around on the road, but I really don’t want to wind it myself. And it is not necessary. We buy an electronic transformer for a standard voltage of 12 V and a power of 100 - 150 Watts and connect to its output a ferrite ring K40x30x20 with a primary winding of 13 turns of PEL 1.2; with two secondary 28 turns of the same wire we have a bipolar voltage of 25 V.

Scheme DIY subwooferconsists of an active filter on TL082 (TL062) and the amplifier itself, assembled according to a standard push-pull circuit. To improve sound quality (and who said that bass is not critical to distortion?), there is a pair of field-effect transistors at the output. More details about the low-pass filter - calculation, diagram and drawings of printed circuit boards. One of the excellent options for a filter circuit for a subwoofer with a phase shifter is shown in the figure.

The subwoofer is powered by or from the abovean electronic transformer, or from a conventional transformer, with two windings of 20 - 30 V for a current of 3 A.

It should be noted thatelectronic transformers do not operate at low load currents, so thisDIY subwooferIt works in class A, which, as you understand, also has a very good effect on the sound quality. The current consumption of each arm must be at least 0.6 A. It is set with a trimming resistor of 1 k.

As an option, you can use the TDA7294 microcircuit, connected according to the diagram below, as an UMZCH.

Speaker for DIY subwooferWe take any low-frequency, the more powerful - this sub produces more than 100 watts of pure sine wave. Power supply +-30 V, with a maximum peak current consumption of up to 4 A. The measured harmonic distortion is less than 0.1%.

For body DIY subwooferWe use an old Soviet wooden TV, maybe a tube TV or a 3USTST.

We make a cut in the top center, and we get two side panels with halves of the upper part. That is, two letters G. We turn one of them over - the frame is ready, and the bottom will be used as the back wall. Caulk the joints with sealant and do not forget to make a bass reflex hole in the front with a diameter of 8 mm.More details about the calculation and manufacture of the case can be found on other resources. And read here practical detailed assembly example

The thought of assembling a subwoofer with my own hands has been haunting me for several months now. And then one day, when I went to the Radio Shop, a Semtoni woofer caught my eye, and I decided to buy it...

I spent the next week doing calculations. I downloaded several programs for calculating subwoofer enclosures (DLSBox2000, JBL-Speakershop, WinISD...) I liked the DLSBox2000 program most of all. With her help I did the calculations. And this is what happened - the efficiency of this design (FI) for my speaker is 76%, volume - 37 lire (external dimensions 45x35x35cm), bass reflex 75x100mm. (diameter/length).

Then I drew a sketch on paper and began making it.

I screwed all the walls together with 50mm long screws. All connections are made with PVA glue (advice - don’t skimp on the glue, the excess will squeeze out). Inside, for greater reliability, I coated the seams with silicone sealant. In principle, this is not necessary, but it’s better to miss and forget than to take it apart again later.

Next I started puttingty on the subwoofer body. I used two-component automotive putty (you can make putty yourself by mixing small sawdust and PVA glue, as an option). Once the putty was dry, I sanded the body until it was almost perfectly flat.

Then I cut out holes for the bass reflex, socket, and pocket handles.

I assembled the subwoofer body to see how it sounds.

All my doubts about the correct calculation of the volume of the subwoofer were instantly dispelled - a soft, even bass was playing. Having made sure that nothing was whistling anywhere, I removed the “accessories” and began to cover the case with self-adhesive paper with a leather texture. Collected.

What was needed to make a homemade subwoofer:

Semtoni woofer 10”(25 cm) 350w(rms, max) - 1100 rubles.
Chipboard 20mm. - free, found in the attic
PVA glue - free, already in stock
Self-tapping screws 50mm. 100 pieces. - 26 rubles
Silicone sealant, transparent - 59 rubles
Sealant gun - 40 rubles
Socket with terminals - 65 rubles
Speaker wire 1m. - 60 rubles
Bass reflex 75x100mm. - 40 rubles
Handles “Pockets” 2 pcs. - 100 rubles

Total about 1800 rubles.

A subwoofer is a low-frequency speaker installed in a cabinet. It is designed to reproduce low frequency sound. The topic of this article is making a subwoofer with your own hands.

Our story about how to assemble a subwoofer must be preceded by a short excursion into theory. The housing acts as an acoustic design required to isolate the sound waves emitted by the front and rear sides of the speaker cone, since when they meet, self-damping occurs, called a short circuit.

Types of acoustic design structures

Infinity screen (freeair) - the speaker head is installed in the reinforced rear parcel shelf of the car. Despite the ease of installation, it is rarely used due to the low sound pressure, as well as the change in sound depending on how full the trunk is. Can only be sold in sedan vehicles.

The closed box is the most common subwoofer enclosure. A closed box of sufficient rigidity completely isolates sound vibrations emitted by the back of the head. To better attenuate sound waves inside the case, the inside of the box is covered with sound-absorbing material: felt, cotton wool or foam rubber with a thickness of at least 2 cm. One of the advantages is the simplicity of calculations and manufacturing. Also, speakers in such a housing can easily withstand peak loads. The closed box is suitable for listening to music with a rich tonal color. There is one minus, but a significant one. This is a low subwoofer efficiency because half of the sound waves "remain" in the box.

Bass reflex. It is a closed box with a port exit through which the sound wave from the back of the head comes out of the box to the outside. The tunnel has a round or rectangular shape. It is this port that is called the bass reflex. It has a certain size and installation location, due to which it changes the phase of the sound wave passing through it. The sound from the back of the speaker is superimposed on the sound from the front, increasing the efficiency. This allows you to obtain sound pressure twice as high as with a closed housing. However, such a housing is more complex in calculations and requires a larger box size compared to installing the same speaker in a closed box. Also, at high sound levels, noise may occur due to air turbulence at the edge of the bass reflex port.

Bandpass. It is a box with a partition in the middle, which forms two chambers. A low-frequency speaker is installed in the partition inside the housing. Depending on the combination of cameras (mute or bass reflex), there are three types of bandpass enclosures. This is a bandpass of the 4th category, 6th category type A and 6th category type B (see figure). Subwoofers of this design allow you to get high-quality bass and a high level of efficiency. Such a case is very complex to design and configure, and is also large in size compared to other designs.

We make a housing for a subwoofer with our own hands

What material is best for making a subwoofer enclosure with your own hands?

Chipboard (chipboard) is the most suitable option, it is cheap and easy to process. You should choose chipboard with the highest density. A thickness of 16mm or greater will do. Chipboard easily absorbs moisture and swells, so it is advisable to paint it.
Fiberboard (Fiberboard) - just like chipboard, you should choose the highest density. It flakes easily, especially when wet. You should work with fiberboard carefully so as not to spoil it. Despite its shortcomings, it is a convenient material for quickly building a subwoofer enclosure for a medium-power speaker.
Plywood. Plywood made from Russian birch or ship's wood is suitable. Most other grades of plywood are not dense enough, resulting in distorted sound.

If there are sheets of chipboard, fiberboard or plywood, but their thickness is not enough to provide the required structural rigidity, you can fold two sheets together, fastening them with sealant (or PVA, wood glue) and self-tapping screws.

So, making a subwoofer enclosure with your own hands is not at all difficult.

How to assemble a subwoofer: required materials and tools

Materials

Speakers. When choosing a speaker, you should know that they differ in their characteristics. The box or instructions usually indicate the recommended acoustic design for a given speaker.
Plywood, fibreboard, chipboard. The quantity depends on the size of the body being manufactured.
Terminals for wires (acoustic terminal). Not necessary. You can drill two holes and bring the wires from the speaker out through them.
Speaker cable.
Silicone sealant or PVA glue.
Self-tapping screws for wood. The nails don't fit.
Epoxy resin.
Paint or varnish.
Glue in a can for carpet. You can use other glue.
If you are building a bass reflex enclosure, you will need a bass reflex tunnel of the required size. If what you need is not on sale, then a plastic (cardboard, iron) pipe of the required diameter is selected at a hardware store.

Tools

Hacksaw or jigsaw.
A screwdriver, or a screwdriver will do.
Tape measure or long ruler.
Pencil (marker).
Carpet or vinyl, or other material for covering the outside of the body is also suitable.
Scissors.

Before assembling a subwoofer, you need to correctly calculate it. We download the JBL SpeakerShop program on the Internet (or similar ones, for example WinISD or bassbox6pro), which is needed to calculate the dimensions of the case.

All these programs work on the same principle: we enter the characteristics from the instructions for the speaker into the appropriate fields in the program or search for our speaker in the program database. We select the type of housing we want to build and the volume recommended in the instructions. The program will display the dimensions of all the walls of the subwoofer enclosure. The instructions for many speakers already indicate the sizes and types of recommended boxes. If the shape of the subwoofer enclosure specified in the instructions is suitable, then you can do without the program. Each speaker requires an individual calculation of the volume of the housing, the size and location of the port. For the subwoofer body, the shape does not matter; the volume is important to obtain certain sound characteristics.

Manufacturing a subwoofer involves several steps.

We cut the walls of the box according to the dimensions. It should be cut, carefully observing the dimensions, so that when assembling the gaps are as small as possible.

We assemble the walls together, coating the joints with sealant and tightening the screws every 5 cm.

We coat the joints again with sealant outside and inside. If even a very small hole remains, a whistle will be heard through it when the speaker is operating.

We cut out a hole for the acoustic terminal (terminals for wires) in a convenient place.

Cut a hole for the speaker.

If the box has a bass reflex, then we attach the bass reflex port to the corresponding hole using epoxy resin.

To protect a cabinet made of fiberboard or chipboard from moisture, it is better to coat the material with paint or varnish, preferably nitro.

We cover the body with carpet, not forgetting to leave holes for the speaker and terminal.

We install the acoustic terminal in its place. We fasten it with self-tapping screws; the inside can be coated with epoxy resin.

We attach two wires to the terminals inside the terminal. We connect the other side of the wire to the speaker terminals. They should be exactly the length required to conveniently connect the speaker.

We insert the speaker into its place. We place a sealing gasket in the joint between the speaker and the plane of the box. If the speaker did not come with one, you can use a thin strip of foam rubber or window sealing.

We fasten the speaker with self-tapping screws from the speaker kit or with ordinary wood screws.

The photo shows a subwoofer enclosure with a bass reflex for a 12″ BLAUPUNKT speaker (left). The volume of the case is 70 liters, this is the maximum volume recommended in the instructions for this speaker. The large volume allows you to get good sound pressure for listening to electronic music.

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